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FAQs on "Other" Aquarium Repair and Modifications

Related Articles: Aquarium Repair

Related FAQs: Acrylic Repair 1, Aquarium Repair, DIY Gear 1, DIY Gear 2, Tanks, Stands, Covers, Custom Aquariums, Stands, Covers...


Patches. We don't need no stinking patches. 10/25/2009
Hi guys
How do I patch one of the sumps you see in LFS that where used for produce.
4 x 4 gray bin. It seems that one part, due to the way they build is weeping water. I know I can use the 3M marine stuff but at 90 bucks a can and only finding it in 1 gallon cans i might as well buy a pond liner and
not do any work. Is there anything to patch this for cheaper. like a water tank patch? Thanks. Josh
<Mmm... if it's already underwater... you could insert a bulkhead fitting and threaded plug... You could use Silastic over a plastic patch of adequate thickness... likely 3/16 or 1/4" will do... If you really want to
be spiffy you could weld a PVC patch twixt the out and in-side (sandwich the weld in-between)... There are some other more novel materials... but I'd go with one of the above. These "totes" are made of Polyethylene... and naught really "sticks" to them (hence their utility in being chemically inert in their various applications). Bob Fenner>

Re: Patches. We don't need no stinking patches. 10/26/09
It not underwater yet. Just got um and was waiting to see what you guys said. Since its not underwater is there anything more than the last?
<Mmm, nope... as in not really... as in the answer that satisfied... hopefully. BobF>

Large Aquarium lining   3/31/2009
To whom it may concern,
In our home we have an aquarium approximately 2,000 gals between all seven sections. This aquarium was built in 1989. It is made of concrete blocks with poured concrete inside and faced with flag stone. The layout is roughly as follows: middle tank is approximately 6 ft x 6 ft with glass front, followed by 4 ft x 2 ft with glass front on each side, followed by 3 ft x 2 ft on each side and finally 2 ft x 6 ft on each side. When working properly it is a aquarium waterfall with fish. The f3 tanks fronted with 1.5 in glass for viewing. We have discovered is it leaking. The tanks have been completely drained re-siliconed and still no solution. When the tanks were first constructed, they were lined with a waterproofing membrane for leaks.
<... Where is this waterproof membrane? Twixt what and what? What is it composed of if you know?>
This worked then but not now. I am looking for a type of waterproofing lining that is clear and fish friendly. We have contacted several companies and no one has any suggestions except to re-silicone. We have done this. Can you give any suggestions or names of companies that may make a product along the lines of my needs. Thank you in advance for your time and help.
Respectfully, Freddie McCullough
<Mmm, you may need to disassemble (remove the glass) and resurface the inside (entirely if it were me... as it is very hard to discern where the actual "leak" originates, and once one area is weak/old, others are sure to follow)... Unfortunately, there are no such clear, liquid coatings that can be assured of good service here, in such applications. I.e., you may well have to remove the flagstone to re-seal. Bob Fenner>

Leak in Plywood / Epoxy tank I submitted this a few weeks back - and Sabrina suggested I resubmit as she didn't really have an answer for me (I appreciated the answer Sabrina... even though it didn't answer my question.)   so here goes again... Greetings WWM Crew! I have 3 year old Plywood (coated with Epoxy Paint) and Acrylic viewing panel tank.  It's 8 feet long by 2 feet tall by 2 ½ feet deep (front to back).  It seems that I have developed a leak almost dead center in the back seam (where the back meets the bottom piece of plywood) of the tank. It's not a HUGE leak, but it is an almost constant drip. <Bunk!> Now to discover exactly WHERE this leak was (on the OUTSIDE) of the tank, I had to remove all fish, gravel, water and everything else in the tank.  Then I had to physically MOVE this behemoth so I could look at the backside (of the tank). <Yes> That's when I found the "leak point'. Now I have 2 problems: 1) I have NO clue where the water leak is starting from on the INSIDE of the tank. <Correct... could be literally anywhere>   Everything LOOKS good, but obviously something is not right. I fear that patching the wrong place will just lead to water rotting my wood from the inside out, so I need to get this thing right the first time.  I the tank has been DRY now for a few weeks.... 2) What method should I use to patch this leak?? <I would rough up the inside corners... and coat with fiberglass cloth (can be bought in nominal width strips... like four inch), "paint" the (laminating is best) resin/hardener in the corners, lay in the cloth, and paint over this again while wet... let cure (outside) for a few days... test there> A) I've considered putting a ¼"- ½" layer of Cement to completely cover the bottom of the tank (and the connection seems between the bottom and the back/sides/front)-- thus HOPEFULLY filling my problem.  But I don't know if cement will "adhere/fill in properly" to the epoxy paint I already have on there. <I wouldn't trust this method> B)  I have also considered using some "Aquamend" by Polymeric Systems Inc to fill the problem area, but once again'¦ I would have to FIND the problem area to fix it. <Nor this one> Can you give me some suggestions?? Either in finding the source of the leak or in coating the entire inside bottom to cover the unfound leak.  I really really don't want to give up on the aquarium and start over again... and I'm not sure how easy it would be to find epoxy paint again to put more coats on it, but any advice is welcome at this point in time. Soren <Go with the fiberglass cloth and resin... the surest, strongest repair. Bob Fenner>

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