Skimmer Selection for New Reef Tank  3/30/08
Hello there Bob & Crew,
<<Hey Mike, Adam J here.>>
I trust this latest inquiry finds you all well.
<<Yes, thanks.>>
Thank you for the help to date as I continue my upgrade (from my 72gal) project.
<<Hope it’s going well.>>
Well, I finally received my Oceanic Model 3 sump to go with my new, but still dry, Oceanic 72" 215 gal reef ready tank.
<<Has potential.>>
It will include approx. 175-200lbs LR with 3-4" sand base, will be lit by
the Coralife Pro 3 x 250 MH & PC setup (approx. 1150W) and will house 2 Zebrasomas, a Maroon Clown, a Six Line, a Falco Hawkfish, a Coral Beauty, a
Copperband and a Heniochus (plus the usual Brittlestars, Snails, Crabs, etc.) and a variety of LPS and some softies.
<<Do keep in mind the butterflies may be of some risk in a mixed reef tank.>>
Now, it's skimmer time.
<<As opposed to hammer time…>>
I am at the point where I am trying to decide between two Turboflotor 1000s or one Turboflotor 5000 Shorty Compact (at about 24" in height). There is
the redundancy of two 1000s and the huge cup capacity of the 5000. There are just enough pros and cons back and forth that I look to you for some last minute advice. I suppose, at this point, the question should be as simple as would you recommend either of these options and if so, which option do you think would
be better.
<<Well honestly, the 5000 would probably be the best choice out of the two, however as far as the brand goes…I have found them to not be as consistent as I would like. For the price there are some other choices I would make.>>
If not, is there some other skimmer option that you think I'm missing and/or should be considering.
<<Take a look at a multitude of brands, it doesn’t hurt to look around and see which can be adapted to your system...look at Aqua-C, EuroReef, ASM, MRC, Deltec, Tunze, those are some the common selections . . .see other crew-members recommendations here;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/proskimrart2.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimbestof.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimselfaqs.htm .>>
I'm looking primarily for "in cabinet" (approx. 29") quality and reliability here. Plus or minus a few bucks here will not be the determining factor.
<<See above.>>
As always, your time and consideration are appreciated.
<<Let me know should you need any more direction.>>
Thank you,
<<Anytime.>>
Mike from Canada, eh.
<<Adam J. for SoCal, dude.>>

Moving up to a 110 gallon system... reading re stkg., canister filters/reef   3/15/08
Hello Crew,
<Cinnamon, let me in!>
I have been a fan of your site since I found it. Great advice.
<Thanks>
Here in my question. I currently have a 60 gallon reef system. I am running a Marineland Emperor Bio-Wheel 400 Power Filter, a Aqua C Remora Protein Skimmer with Maxijet 1200 Pump and a Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system. Two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads and One 200 watt heater. I also have about 60 to 80 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed.
The current residents of the 60 gallon, (listed below) will be relocating to the 110 gallon mentioned below. Except for the tomato clowns and the Yellow Belly Blue Damsel. They will be going back to the LFS.
1 yellow tang 4in
2 tomato clowns
1 Lyretail Anthias 3"
1 Yellow Belly Blue Damsel
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish 4"
2 Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp
1 Fire Shrimp
2 Serpent Starfish
1 Hawaiian Feather Duster
15 assorted snails
1 Long tentacle anemone and 1 short tentacle
Several different types of mushrooms, polyps and Zoanthids.
I purchased the 110 gallon tank, (48 x 30 x 18) with no overflow, to be my new reef system. My plan is to run a Eheim 2028 Professionel II Canister Filter,
<Mmm, good product... I use them on my FW tanks... but am not such a fan for marine... part. reef set-ups. Please see WWM re: http://wetwebmedia.com/marcanfiltuse.htm>
two Hydor Koralia 3 - 850GPH powerheads, Aqua C Remora Pro Protein Skimmer with Mag 3 Pump, two Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200 Watt Heater and the Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system which is on my current system. I know my current lighting system will need to be upgraded at some point, but do you think I will be able to go with this one for now?
<If you can arrange your stinging-celled life to be about the same depth of water as currently>
I will also have about 75 to 100 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed. Any recommendations would be helpful?
<Deeper, finer substrate is better... also posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm
and the linked files above.>
I would also like to add the following resident to the new system, if you approve? I do not want to overload my system.
2 Maroon Clownfish
1 Blonde Naso Tang. I know he will need to be in a larger system in a couple of years.
<Mmm, no... immediately. I would not keep a Naso species in anything less than six feet long/wide... See... WWM... re...>
Already planning on a 180 system.
1 Full size angel?
<... Not a good idea>
Hardy and reef safe any suggestions?
<Posted...>
I know there is no guarantee on it being reef safe.
1 Blue Jaw Trigger or Niger Trigger?
A group of schooling fish. Any suggestions?
<Reading. Bob Fenner>

No Questions, Just Thanks 2/19/08
Hi Crew
<Hi Garry>
Having been away from the hobby for over ten years (major family illness meant no time) I am now approaching that time when the reef bug has caught hold and gone from being latent to rampant again.
<Ah, the bug has bit.>
Much has changed, although I seem to have done much of what is current anyway, refugia, big skimmers, live rock filtration methods, etc etc (more by accident than design I might add), and finding your site has allowed the dream and adventure to begin on a much more solid foundation than before. I know my stocking rates have always been light and my filtration heavy but it always worked for me and I only ever seemed to lose a fish shrimp or whatever through old age or accident. It is good to know that what I did in the past is advised as being the way to go today.
<Not much has changed but technology.>
So this is just a big thank you to everyone from Bob to Steve to anyone who replies to the thousands of questions people come up with. Your site has replaced a lot of faith I have lost with the industry (hobby) what with shops who don't have a clue (keeping a few small wrasse with an Anglerfish is just one example), and staff about as knowledgeable (sorry if that's spelt wrong) as a garbage man in a hospital.
<Thank you for your kind words. James (Salty Dog)>
Regards
Garry Holter (in the UK)
Oh I'm an ecologist by training and understand community structure very well (it formed my D.Phil research for 4 years) and boy does that help in structuring a reef aquarium. <<Would very much encourage your writing... re the many useful tie-ins here. Bob Fenner>>
<Mmmm>

Filtration Recommendations, Protein Skimmers, Refugium – 1/2/08
Brenda et al,
<Art>
Thanks for responding to my fishy questions!
<You’re welcome!>
I have a 45 gallon saltwater aquarium FOWLR and will gradually change to a beginning reef fish tank with your help and LFS. Currently I have a wet/dry filter and typically a nitrate factory. I invested in this when I started my aquarium 8/30/07. I regret my newbie choice in the filtration.
<You’re not alone in the regrets of a newbie. We’ve all been there.>
Could you provide specific brand and type of filtration that I might replace it with this New Year 08? I have 5 small damsels, 2 gobies, 1 small clown fish, 12 assorted hermit crabs, 1 black urchin, 1 brown crab and several small/med snails. I have 40 #s of LR.
<A good protein skimmer is your best option here. I recommend a lot of research on protein skimmers before you purchase. There are a lot of poor choices that can be made. I personally use the Aqua C skimmers for my reef tanks. More information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/proskimrart2.htm . Read through the FAQ’s regarding skimmers. I also use and recommend a refugium. More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm . You will want to read all the articles and FAQ’s associated with refugiums.
Thanks, Art
<You’re welcome! Hope this helps! Brenda>

Filtering materials in reef tank – 1/2/08
Hi CREW
Wish you all a very HAPPY NEW YEAR.
Now here is my NEW YEAR question.
What kind of filtering materials can be used in a reef tank sump?
I have a 75g reef tank and was thinking of making a sump for it.
Thanking you
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the second tray down. Bob Fenner>

Should I Use A Canister Filter? - 12/31/07
Hi Eric or whoever is on duty this evening,
<<Hiya Ken...Eric here>>
My 90 gallon SPS tank is doing great.
<<Excellent>>
I recently set up a second tank primarily for a RBTA and a pair of Clarkii clown fish.
<<Neat!>>
I will probably add another 4 small fish and some star polyps and mushrooms at some point.
<<Mmm, too bad...the tank/anemone would fare much better in the long term without the polyps and mushrooms trying to constantly poison it>>
The tank is a 46 gallon bow (3 foot length) with about 65 pounds of live rock, TEK 5 T5 lighting, two Tunze 6025 Nano Stream powerheads, and a Deltec hang on back skimmer. I am not using a sump. Even though I can make a large % water change with a couple of buckets of new water, or water from my SPS tank with this size tank if I ever run into trouble, I was wondering if I should add a canister filter to my set up?
<<I would...for chemical filtration (carbon/Poly-Filter)>>
If I did this, I would not use the bio media or noodles, and just use the sponge for mechanical filtration to trap debris.
<<If you do...be sure to clean the filter sponge of detritus one or more times a week, else the canister filter will become more of a "problem" than a "solution">>
I could also use it for PhosBan etc if needed.
<<Indeed>>
I have no mechanical filtration in my SPS tank, but the debris eventually will end up in my sump which I can then clean out.
<<Agreed... And with good strong water flow, the suspended detritus (or marine snow, if you like) is actually quite good "food" for your corals>>
This tank has no sump. I of course will have a clean up crew for the tank. Do you think the canister filter is a good idea or a waste of money?
<<Can be quite useful, as described/when maintained properly>>
If it is a good idea, is Eheim still the way to go?
<<Many choices available these days...but you won't go wrong with the Eheim product>>
Thanks,
Ken
<<Happy to help. EricR>>

Filtration question, SW... Reef maint.  12/30/07
Howdy, Crew!
<Hello!!>
I have my 125 display tank in the living room, and 100 stock tank sump in the basement. I currently run an Iwaki MD-100 from the basement to pump +/- 2000 gph upstairs. The tank upstairs has about 150 lbs of live rock, a heater, and my livestock. There was no filtration physically in the tank until I started this project. The sump downstairs has one of the two system heaters in it, about 40 lbs of live rock, and the protein skimmer.
I am now turning off my MD-100 at 9pm at night, from the sump to the display, turning on a Rio 2500 in the tank, and the skimmer in the sump. I go from about 2000 gph to about 800 gph. Would the lighter circulation be all right for the fish at night?
<Should be.>
I have a 1"-2" crushed coral bed. Flow is still decent with the small pump running. I aimed it at the front glass, so the flow splits and goes both ways. Even my anemone still has movement.
Candy canes have feeding tentacles out further than I've ever seen them before. When the MD-100 is off, the sump in the basement catches all the overflow water (as during a power outage.) That being said, since the water level rises in the sump at night, I turn on the skimmer at night. If I left it on during the day, the water level is low enough, it doesn't skim at all anyway. I turn the main pump back on at 9am, and the skimmer back off.
What I have considered so far:
-Water temperatures being different, so I have heaters in tank and sump.
<Good.>
-Aeration, so I have the display tank pump aimed toward the surface to facilitate good gas exchange, and the sump has the protein skimmer to move water and aerate.
<This will help.>
I haven't checked the pH upstairs and downstairs to see if it differs much.
<I bet it will.>
Can you foresee see any ill effects of me doing this? I don't see any problem so far. It's been 3 days, and everyone appears happy. Even my hippo tang shows no signs of stress or ich. Some guys from my club said I would lose filtration, but I know some people don't even use a sump The water still moves, just not up-down.
<The real downside hear is stability. You are creating two systems every twelve hours, then recombining them. I have personally seen systems that do exactly this with good success, mainly for the power savings. I personally wouldn’t, just for stability sake.>
Any insight would be appreciated!
<I would at least try to get the skimmer running during the day. You may need to add a little sump next to your big sump (such as a 20 gal tank) to get the water height to run your skimmer in. Skimming with the setup now is only skimming less than half the water half the time.>
Thanks and have a safe and happy New Year!
Eric Z.
<Sure will Eric, same to you and yours. Good luck and happy reefing, Scott V.>

Filtration on 80gal Bowfront 12/29/07
Hello Crew,
<Hello, Scott V. with you.>
Thank you for the time and experience you share with all of us.
I've always been interested in keeping a saltwater and tank and was encouraged to pursue my interest last year when given a 20gal tank. I started up the tank in September last year with a basic filter, powerhead, heater and live rock. In October I added a couple yellow-tail damsels and then added a couple of False Ocellaris Clownfish in November. I was able to maintain good levels and healthy fish and I had a nice growth of coralline algae. In the spring of this year, I added a mushroom and then during this last summer, I added a Xenia, which I unfortunately watched suffer. It was only at its demise that I became more aware of the need to test for calcium.
<And alkalinity?>
During the summer I also noticed an outbreak of red slime algae and decided it was time to invest in a skimmer (AquaC Remora).
<Good move.>
Now that the skimmer is running and I've kept up on water changes, I have been able to maintain a healthy Kenyi tree that is spreading all over the tank, a leather finger and a leather coral. All this said to say that I am fascinated with the craft decided I have to expand .I now have an 80 gal. bowfront awaiting decisions on a filtration system.
Since all I have known is hang-ons, I've been reading up and am leaning toward a sump and a separate refugium.
<Yes, if you are going to upgrade, this is the way to go.>
Please review and let me know your thoughts on the current design. I would like to house a reef tank with a medium load of fish, and LR. In terms of corals, I would like to consider clams, anemone, brain coral, leathers, Acropora, torch coral, xenia. This is just a sampling of what I am interested in and want to design for.
<I would skip the anemone and limit mixing the soft corals with hard.>
Since my stand is a bowfront, I am somewhat limited in space. The opening on the back is 27.5" wide and 30.5" tall and the interior space is 32" wide x 12" deep by 30.5" tall
1) Sump - Reef Devil Reef Sump by AE Tech (28 x 11x 16)
Compartment 1 - micron bag, skimmer, skimmer pump
Compartment 2 - will use mechanical or chemical filtration as appropriate
Compartment 3 - pump back to tank
<OK>
2) Skimmer - AquaC EV120 or Euro-Reef RS100 (not sure if I should be considering the EV180). Should I consider anyone of these more than the other. I would like the quietest if there is a difference as this tank will be in the family room.
<The EuroReef in my opinion.>
3) Pumps - I have not even looked at pumps yet (will once again be interested in quiet operating pumps)
<Considering space limitations, a submersible, Eheim hands down.>
4) Lighting - 48" Corallife Aqualight Pro (2x150W HQI MH (10,000K) + 2 96W PC + 3 LED)
<Will be fine.>
5) Water Flow - for additional water movement, I am installing a closed loop system of 1" pvc pipes buried in the base sand (3" bed) with 8-45 degree angles forcing water into the tank from all sides. I will also have 2 outlets in the top rear corners. Both the lower and upper system will be run off pumps located under the tank. These are in addition to the outflow from the sump.
<How much flow do you plan to run through these? Given the size of the tank, eight outputs low and two above is just too many. If your pump is sized to your tank this will provide very little dynamic flow. If your pump is sized to your outputs, this will be way too much flow. Also, I assume you plan to drill this tank. If you do please check to see if the bottom is tempered, it likely is. If so, you will not be able to safely drill it. >
6) UV Sterilizer (to be added in the future)
<I would skip this.>
7) Refugium - Ecosystem Refugium 100M (24 x 8 x 8) - considering adding this in the future on top of the sump
<I suppose this could work. For the money spent on both the refugium and sump, I would consider having one made that simply incorporates both into one design, or possibly fabricating yourself.>
Sorry for the lengthy post. I'm just really wanting to do this as right as possible the first time.
<No problem.>
Thank in advance.
Jason
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Marine Filtration 9/27/07 – 9/27/07
Hello all (esp. Scott F.).
<Hi Stan, James with you today.>
After avoiding a mistake (putting too many or too big a fish in my 75 gallon tank), I am now focusing on filter design and set-up, and committing to wait at least a month before adding any livestock. I now have my kids doing research with me, so they understand proper husbandry and care requirements (okay, they are 3 and 6, but they are at least involved).
<Ah, no better time to get them started.>
It looks like I am going to set up a fish only tank (with small fish!) then converting over to a reef set up later on, so I want to make sure that my sump design is on target. I am looking at a 29 gallon sump, which will hold about 12 gallons or so in the lower portion, with a separate refugium chamber fed by a powerhead (expect about 150 gph) which will flow back into the main sump. I'll use the refugium chamber as a bubble trap, along with a filter pad on each end. For skimming, I'll have an Aqua-C Remora on the main tank. Flow through the sump itself should be about 450 gph.
The display will have 80 lbs of base rock, along with a 1" bed of live sand, and about 10 lbs of Tonga live rock to seed the base rock and add some variation to the look.
In the refugium, I plan on placing a 5" DSB along with 5-10 lbs of live rock rubble.
<I'd go no more than 3">
I hope to order some benthic organisms and macroalgae online, as my LFS doesn't have them.
Question...will this set up work for a reef tank (I'll add more circulation via a closed loop at that point) as well as for my small fish only system?
<Should be no problem but I'd go with more live rock before you convert it to reef. It would take quite some time for the 10 pounds on Tonga to seed the 80 pounds of base rock.>
I keep searching and reading, and I am especially grateful (and impressed) that there is a common thread with all your responses, and no real contradiction of information.
<Why thank you.>
Thanks again for all you guys do!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Stan

Confusion; Sumps, Refugiums, Wet/Dry Trickle Filters, Flow Rates, and Wavemakers – 09/21/07
Dear Sirs,
<<Greetings Carl...and BTW, very capable ladies here as well>>
I love your site.
<<We thank you>>
I am still fairly new to this hobby and am pulling my hair out at the variety of information available.
<<Mmm, yes...much info with varying opinions...but do keep reading/absorbing>>
I have made some progress, but have recently decided to take a step forward and it just so happens that this next step seems exceedingly baffling.
<<Indeed, many hobbyists are intimidated by the plumbing/flow/circulation aspects of tank setup...let’s see if I can help with your understanding re>>
Currently I have a 46-gallon bowfront with a wet/dry which returns via an Aquaclear 70 powerhead. I have ordered a refugium and plan on turning the wet/dry into a sump (I will then use both the sump and the refugium), but I really can't figure out the plumbing for this.
<<Quite elementary really... The tank drains to the skimmer chamber of the sump...a T-fitting is installed on the drain line with a gate-valve on the output, and leading to the refugium...the refugium then “gravity drains” to the pump chamber of the sump. Plumbing the vessels in this manner lets you adjust/maintain a different flow rate in the refugium if you wish>>
In my setup, both the sump and 'fuge must be below the aquarium.
<<Very common...and is how my system is configured. Depending on the height of the individual vessels, you may find you will need to elevate the refugium slightly to allow it to gravity drain to the sump>>
Besides plumbing, I am also confused by flow rates.
<<Okay>>
I understand that the aquarium flow rate should be higher than that of the refugium, but how much exactly should I be aiming for...i.e. aquarium 8xhr? refugium 2xhr?
<<Is variable...often dictated by the animals/species kept. But as a general starting point this would be fine...could even add a couple more “volumes per hour” if you wish>>
Is my Aquaclear 70 adequate?
<<As a means for circulating water through the sump/refugium, maybe...depends on how much head-loss you experience with this pump...but is likely inadequate on its own re water movement within the display>>
Wavemakers: I ordered a Wave2k before I read your opinion on them. Should I return it?
<<Mmm, I’ve not used one of these devices...but I think it will overpower your 46g tank with both its size and performance. The Koralia or smaller Tunze Stream pumps would be a better choice here...in my opinion>>
I was planning on keeping it and augmenting in tank water flow with a Koralia #1, a Koralia nano for bottom of the tank water movement, and the return from the Aquaclear 70 of course.
<<Ah well...you don’t need (or want!) the Wave2K then>>
Thanks,
Carl
<<Here’s some links to more useful info (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm ) and (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm ) and (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i5/wavemakers/Wavemakers.htm ). Do also follow the links in blue at the tops/in the margins of the pages. Regards, EricR>>

Filtration Sequencing... What Is The Best Filtration Sequence For A Reef Tank? – 09/19/07
- Biological, chemical, mechanical.
- Biological, mechanical, chemical.
- Chemical, mechanical, biological.
- Chemical, biological, mechanical.
- Mechanical, chemical, biological.
- Mechanical, biological, chemical.
<<Mmm, well...biological filtration is going on most “everywhere” in the system...but if setting up/arranging sequential filtration modules, it is my opinion the last sequence listed (mechanical, biological, chemical) is the best, for “any” marine system. Mechanical filtration first (changed or cleaned frequently) to trap and remove detritus/organic material to reduce the load on the bio-filter (I consider a protein skimmer such a device)...biological filtration next, to process “dissolved” organic compounds...and lastly, chemical filtration to augment these processes and help reduce toxic levels of those elements not handled by the previous two methods>>
Thank you for your help.
<<Happy to assist>>
Your website is very informative.
<<Hope you find it useful>>
Sincerely,
Tara Price
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Re: I am going crazy!!! (revised, I hope this is better!!)... Reef tank filtr. mainly  4/25/07 
Hello Mr. Fenner and crew,
<Jerry>
After all the late night reading and studying, I find the more I read and learn, the crazier I feel I am getting.
Here is my dilemma, I wish I can say I was one of the ones that studied first and purchased second, but I wasn't.  Put that together with impatience and you have a disaster waiting to happen.
I have a 75 gallon LR/LS reef tank, stocked with everything the LFS could sell me, (huge amounts of corals).
I have a small 17 gallon wet dry (18"x10"x16") and a 405 Fluval (contains bios and Purigen).  I have an Aqua C Urchin/Mag sitting in my sump and next to that is a Rio 1250 gph.  The Rio returns directly into the left side of my tank.
Since I was out of room in the sump, I put a Pondmaster 2400gph outside.
The Pondmaster is pumping water to a JBJ chiller through a wall into the next room (it took weeks to convince my wife!!).
This returns to the right side of my tank making a travel of 5' each way.
I had perfect water for months and now it seems the water changes are not keeping up with the production of nitrates.
<... You have read re Wet-Dries on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaqs.htm
and the linked files above?>
I was past 240 and did a 30 gallon water change, and now it's down to 100. I plan on doing another big change in a couple of days. (yet my corals/fish seem fine?)
I read from your site to remove bio-balls, I did that and replaced it with 4" of live sand and 16lb of broken live rock. I have also added 2 full bags of Chaetomorpha to the sump/refugium.
I am still going through the drip plate and PolyPads dropping down on top of the Chaetomorpha and LR/LS. Is this okay?
<Yes>
I started to feel that this refugium is not enough (always my problem), it is currently 8"x10". I have read that any refugium is better than no refugium.
<This is so>
Now I have so much water in the sump/refugium that if I had a power outage, I would have about 5 gallons or more on the floor and a divorce!!
<Trouble... need to reduce the amount of water in the tank/system...>
Recently I bought a new tank 24"x12"x16" for a separate refugium. I would go bigger but I have space constraints.
I have just recently read about this miracle mud. So now my brain takes me to another direction.
Tank water through the drip plate/poly pads into the miracle mud compartment.
Flow through to the skimmer side, Rio 1250 taking it through the wall 5' to the refugium.
Pondmaster 2400 will take it from the refugium to the chiller (too much flow into chiller?)
<No>
and back another 5' to then split to both sides of the tank.
Is this crazy or should I just keep it simple?
<Simple is better... Do read re how much flow to send through/over the Mud... not much. Best to restrict flow or bypass through this compartment>
Either keep things as they are and purchase a Sulphur Denitrator.
Pull the sump/refugium out; replace it with the new tank/refugium and put it under the display and call it a day??
<I would do the latter>
PLEASE HHEELLLPPP!! I don't want to hurt anything in my tank with my constant changes.
Ps I have a red Caulerpa in my tank and it has grown large dark purple almost black grapes on them is this normal?
<Possibly... better to remove this material if it starts to decompose. Bob Fenner>
Jerry

Here comes another addiction... going to reef! Mainly filtr.   - 4/7/07
Thank you guys so much for putting real and honest info on the web for all to use free.... You have no doubt saved countless marine lives... After making it a point to read info on your site ever day when I get home from work for a couple hours, you might get some mail from the woman that's not so pleasant.. j/k)
<Heeee! Say it isn't so!>
Anyway after all the info from you guys I am going to ditch  my wet/dry system and build a custom 55 Gallon sump.  Finally here comes  the question... I have a 180 gallon aquarium, 15 fish, some inverts and a button  polyp, all medium size, finally ready to get bit by the coral bug. 225 pds LR,  220 pds Fiji pink sand, 2 Mag drive 12 pumps, one going to a large lifeguard  chemical module with a little reef carbon, and one going to a large lifeguard mechanical module,
<Mmm... not such a fan of this sort of filtration for this application... Do plan on switching out the cartridge every week (have at least two... with the one being cleaned in-between...>
2 Coralife 220 skimmers, and an 18 W UV, a hang on  refuge (which will be replaced in the new sump.
<No room to squeeze in one of larger volume?>
Should I just remove the  modules and use the mag's for return only due to all the live rock and sand, as  well as a future large refuge in the sump with Chaeto?
<Yes... a better plan>
I figure I would  take them off and utilize the extra flow potential from the pumps..  Thanx  again!
<Ah yes... we're in agreement here. Bob Fenner>

If it's not broken don't fix it; too much filtration on a reef tank?  4/6/07
Hi guy's, love the site,
<Thank you.>
have been reading it for a  while and am wondering if I am using to much filtration...
<Hard to do...generally speaking. but let's see what we have.>
I have a 180 gallon  reef tank about 12 fish,
<Small? Big?>
5 inverts, and 1 star button polyp.  Here is what  I have on the tank..  225 pds LR, Overflow to a large sump with about 100  bioballs. A mag drive 12 running to a lifeguard {large) mechanical module. A  mag12 running to a lifeguard (large) chemical module, about 1/2 full of reef  carbon.  A Coralife 220 skimmer, ORP monitor going to a small ozone  generator, 200 pounds of Fiji pink sand, a CPR large refugium with Chaeto lit  24/7.  I feel as though I might be wasting a lot with having all this...Any  suggestions?
<I think the plastic bio-media is a unnecessary, but the refugium probably refutes most ill effects it creates. From the sounds of it you have a functional, stable captive environment. It it's not broken don't fix it. The carbon, unless you have a lot of encroaching cnidaria life is probably not necessary on a continual basis either...but won't hurt anything either.>
  My fish are great, water chem great, and water crystal  clear....Thanx in advance
<Welcome, Adam J.>

Upgrading tank help! Using WWM   3/1/07
I want to upgrade my current tank that is 75 gallons with shells for substrate, 2 Eheim 2026 canister filters, aqua c pro skimmer, live rock and heavy bio-load due to a lot of live stock. All tests are ok, but the nitrates.
<The canisters... need to be cleaned frequently... at least weekly>
The new tank is a 150 gallon with 4 1" bulkheads drilled in the back.
<I wish two were 1.5"... for drains...>
I have a sea life model 150 wet/dry filter that measures 28x16x9 1/2. The sump area is 16 1/2 and the bio-ball area is 11 1/2.  It also has a Rio 2500 return pump. About 1" of sand and then the pre-existing shells and live rock.
Here are my questions. Will this wet/dry be sufficient for this size tank?
<Mmm, can be, yes>
Since I don't have a ton of live rock, should I use the bio-balls or leave them out?
<I would leave out>
(I plan to increase the amount of live rock when the $$ increases ) Would I benefit from leaving out the bio-balls and adding LR to the sump area?
<Yes... posted>
  Would the use of the Eheim be any benefit?
<Not IMO>
Is the 1" of sand ok, or would more be beneficial?
<Posted>
I have also read your skimmer should be placed in the rawest water. Should the skimmer be placed in the bio area? is the sump area ok?
<Ditto>
Should I add a bag of Chemi-pure before the sump area? Could you tell me which is the better-Chemi-pure or black diamond activated carbon?
<The former>
Would this set-up be ok to get up and running then modify with time?
Thanks for your valuable time and responses.
dawn
<These questions are all answered over and over, with the rationale presented... on WWM. Please learn to/use the search tool, indices. Bob Fenner>

Choices in Reef Filtration  2/27/07
Hi
<<Hello.>>
I'm new and was wondering what to buy to set up a 125gal or 150gal reef tank. I was looking at some sites and these two sites interested me .What do you think. Open at all suggestions and help. Here are the sites A href="http://www.aqua-medic.com/products/products.php?category=Filter%20Systems&product=Marin%201000"> http://www.aqua-medic.com/products/products.php?category=Filter%20Systems&product=Marin%201000Check in the products list here is more and the other one is: </FONT><A href="http://www.ecosystemaquarium.com/html/marineProducts.html"><FONT face=Arial size=2>http://www.ecosystemaquarium.com/html/marineProducts.html></STRONG></A>Thank you your help is appreciated , Peppi
<<If I had to choose between one and the other it would definitely be the latter, the eco-system, the first one with all the plastic bio-media doesn't tickle my fancy. **AJ.>>

Reef Filtration, Options Galore - 03/17/2006
Great website!
<Thanks Jim. Glad you like it.>
I want to set up a new 65 gallon reef tank. My LFS suggests that all I need for filtration is an Aquafuge Pro with built-in CPR skimmer for filtration. In searching the internet I found a CPR Tech page FAQ that indicated that the Aquafuge PRO was not intended to be the sole filtration system only a supplement. \
<I agree. Better to have a good skimmer as well that can handle the tank volume. Look into the AquaC line.>
I am getting ready to make my purchases and want to do everything right the FIRST time.
<Well that just takes all the "adventure" out of it;)>
Is the Aquafuge set up the way to go?
<A good addition.>
Do I need more filtration and if so what?
<Many options for you but a dedicated skimmer, the fuge (with additional skimming), and a good bit of LR/LS is all you really need. Here's a good link to start on http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm .>
Thanks in advance!
Jim McDonald
<You're welcome. - Josh>

Re: Reef Filtration, Options Galore - 03/17/2006
One follow up...if the refugium is large enough to support a 100 gallon tank would I still need the second skimmer?
<I would.>
I only ask because your response mentioned handling of tank volume.
<I like to keep things "function specific". I would plan on the fuge doing the fuge's job (added benefit of skimmer a bonus), and have a skimmer for the sole purpose of skimming. Likely much more efficient than a built in skimmer.>
Thanks again.
Jim McDonald
<Welcome. - Josh>

Reef Set-Up/Filtration   12/28/05
Happy holidays!
<Same to you Ed.>
OK, so the wife and I went into the LFS and were astounded by the coral.
<Amazing isn’t it?>
We thought about a nanocube and did some research and decided that  it was not the way to go.  
<Yes they are nice “novelty” items but I find it hard to take them seriously when they recommend it for marine use without installing a protein skimmer. It is definitely not for beginners.>
There are only 3 LFS stores in the city selling  salt water/marine.  In two the tanks are filthy and in the third we get  different advice depending on who we ask.
<Differing advice in the marine aquarium, no couldn’t be….Seriously though this is why WWM and other information exists so you can research for yourself and come to your own logical conclusion.>
We have now spent several hundred dollars on reference books and maybe its too much information but we're confused.
<Can never have too much.>
We are looking at a 55 g Tenecor marine ready or a 70 g Oceanic reef ready Tech.
<Both are good sizes and reputable companies.>
We would like to keep the tank to 36 inches. We plan to use about  100 lb. of LR and do a 3 inch live sand bed.  We plan to do the closed  loop manifold system you recommend.
<Good.>
We'd like to add a sump to hide the heaters, chiller (we are planning MH), and skimmer and to increase the amount of water.  
<Very good.>
Both Tenecor and Oceanic have recommended sumps including wet/dry filtration.
We have been reading forums  in which writers stated that with LR/LS filtration additional filtration may  
actually be detrimental. What is your opinion?
<Bio-media after a period of time tend to accumulate nutrients and it’s just not as efficient as a breeding grounds for nitrifying bacteria, in either words except in certain applications…they are becoming less favorable.  The surface area on live rock is more than ample at providing a breeding grounds for nitrifying bacteria and the bio-media is not necessary.  Bio-media is great at breaking down ammonia and nitrite but not so great with nitrite. Also macro-algae/microfauna refugiums are of much more benefit to the reef tank. I would look into these.>
One of the manufacturers recommends an in sump pump.  It is my  understanding
that we would be better off if the pump were outside the sump.  What is your opinion?
<I prefer “dry” pumps as opposed to wet pumps, they tend not to transfer as much heat to the water and give you more room in your sump for the equipment and refugia mentioned above.>
Thanks,
Ed
<Quite welcome, Adam J.>

Major Remodeling (Tank Reconfiguration)  11/16/05
Hey guys great site!
<Thanks for the kind words! Scott F. here today!>
I know you are busy so I will get right to it. I have been running an undergravel system (powered by two power heads) in my 75 g marine tank for years. I also run two (for lack of knowing what to call them) "hang on" filters on the back of the tank that cycle the water through carbon filtration. All has been well until I began to finally get into corals.
<Ahh...the coral bug has bitten...>
I currently have a colony of Xenia, a Pink Bubble Coral, Frogspawn, a couple of Ricordea, and some Green Star Polyps. I also have live rock in my tank as well as some Clownfish, Tangs, a Koran Angel, Large Green Chromis, Cleaner Shrimp, Hermits, and snails etc. . 
My question is this: can I phase out the undergravel system and update to a more "reef friendly" set up. I hate the crushed coral bottom and would love to go to live sand as well as do whatever necessary to give my corals the ideal conditions to grow and spread. Is it possible?
<Well, I would be inclined not to remove the UG filter plate after you stop using it, unless you do plan on removing the substrate as well (Sounds like you do want to switch substrate, however). I am in favor of setups utilizing sumps for water processing. If it were me, I'd view this as a complete "re-start" of the system, if your intent is to switch over substrate and filtration methodology. The tank will have to go through a new cycling process, just as if it were brand new (which it essentially will be!). BTW, the Koran will get pretty large, and cannot be considered a "coral safe" fish for an indefinite period of time.>
What do I replace it with? How fast should I make the transition?
<Sump-based systems are the way to go, IMO. You'd be wise to set up temporary quarters for your animals as you "remodel" the system. Proceed slowly, and study these types of systems before you make the move. Don't skimp on the equipment, particularly lighting and protein skimming. These items will make a huge difference for you down the line. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

It's All On The Site - 11/11/2005
I'm sorry if I'm repeating a question,
<Many, actually.>
but I've looked on the site and I'm still a little confused. 
<Much that you find confusing now can be alleviated with time, patience, and research. No worries.>
I'm new at the whole saltwater reef tank thing. I have a freshwater 90 gallon right now that I want to convert to a reef tank soon. But I'm not sure what kind of filtration to use.... 
<Much, much to learn, here....>
I've heard refugium is the best way to go but.... I'm not really sure how that works... do I need a wet dry to run a refugium?? 
<No, not necessarily.... start reading.>
<<Not at all.  Do what the nice lady says, please.  MH>>
Also.. I know I'll need a protein skimmer but.... what exactly does a protein skimmer do? What is it? 
<Removes dissolved organics from the water; again, read.... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm . Much on skimmers here, also on other filtration methods including refugiums.>
<<Foam fractionation is actually a rather old form of "chemical" filtration, and has many, many uses, including in some food production and refinement of certain products.  Google "foam fractionation".  MH>>
Also, if I go with the refugium setup, what all do I need to buy to get it up and running?
<Too many possibilities, too much information to impart in a mere email. Start with that link, and get crackin'.... you'll need to form your own opinions on these very subjective questions.>
Thank you for your time. -Kurt
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Are Refugiums and Sumps Mandatory? 11/3/05
Greetings,
<Hi Brad!>
Brad B. here. I've been reading a lot on your web site to try an educate myself, answer questions and get ideas. I'm trying to be a good steward and have a basic question. First, here's my scoop: 46 g bow front marine aquarium / 60 lbs of live reef sand / mix of rock and live rock - a good coverage of LR but not all that much weight as I chose specimens with good color and surface area but light (save $$) / two Emperor 280s (fiber media plus activated carbon cartridges) / AquaC Remora skimmer with MaxiJet 1200 / two AquaClear 50s and two AquaClear 30s for circulation / Coralife 36" with a 96W Actinic, 96W 10,000K white, and two lunar LEDs on a timer - Actinic = 12 hrs and White 10,000K 8 hrs... okay... 
Can I expect good success (such as getting/keeping nitrates near zero) with a low fish load - inverts - corals given the above stated setup without adding a sump or refugium?
<Brad of course it is possible to get away without a refugium or a sump. Though I will say a refugium is in my opinion a great asset to any marine tank, not only as a nutrient export device as a breeding ground for detritivores and micro-fauna. The sump is a great place to hide equipment and improve the aesthetics of the display. And both the refugium and the sump increase your water volume and thus your margin of error. Having said that yes, as I stated above these are not mandatory. However the heavier maintenance because of the lack of these devices will fall on you. You may need to perform extra water changes; and yes I would understock your tank as far as fish.>
I want to/did invest in good stuff but want to keep it simple as possible. Many thanks!
<Welcome Adam J.> 

Re: Refugium or Sump Mandatory? 11/4/05
Thanks for the reply. 
<You are welcome.> 
If I were to add one of these products which would you recommend and how? 
<For your set-up a hang on variety could work, they are pretty much plug and play.> 
I'm having a hard time finding setup instructions. I found hang-on type refugiums online but my tank's back rim real estate is pretty much maxed out between my two Emperor filters
<I would rather remove one or both Emperor filters if I had to choose between them and the 'fuge. The 'fuge is of much more benefit in my opinion.>
<<Not just your opinion, definitely would be of better utility here.  MH>>
and AquaC Remora hang-on skimmer. Again, I'm looking for the best simple/effective installation that is appropriate for my setup.
<The skimmer/refugium combo is about s simple and efficient s it gets.>
Also, my 46 gal bow front tank stand does not provide a lot of floor space to put things. 
<I thin the hang-on is the best option for you.>
Thanks again for your help.
<Welcome, Adam J.> 

Refugium/Sump Round III - 11/4/05
I just ran across an Aqua Clear Aquatics Mud 90 Sump Filter. Good unit?
<AquaClear is a reputable company but I am not familiar with this product.>
If so, any recommendation on the "mud" or substrate? I guess I'm not exactly sure how they work just yet but I've heard of using DSBs and then the website sells "mud".
<The mud and the DSB are supposed to serve the same purpose (nitrification/micro-fauna breeding grounds) For more on what a refugium does and what a DSB/Mud filter does search WWM. Adam J.> 
<<Or buy "The Natural Marine Aquarium - Reef Invertebrates".  MH>>

What type Mechanical Filtration for 75 reef?  08/08/2005
Hello and Thank you again for being here to support this wonderful hobby.
<Welcome>
My question regards what type of mechanical filtration you would recommend for my 75 gallon (not reef ready) Reef Tank which will soon be complete and set up once I get a Mechanical Filter. I will be cycling it using at least 40 lbs of Live Rock.
--Note-- I already have 3 emperor 280's but I would like to eliminate as many H.O.B. items as possible.
And are 2 Seio 620's enough or should I consider moving up to the 820's? Or what would you consider for Circulation for around $100 in a 75 gallon tank?
Equipment:
260 watt Current USA PC
AquaC Remora with Maxijet 1200 and Pre Skimmer Box
2 Seio 625 gph power heads
120 lbs CaribSea Seaflor Aragonite
1 Eco Aqualizer
<And a magic pyramid hat? Heee!>
:p  
<I would read over these issues... mechanical filtration and reef filtration... and circulation on WWM... and make-up your own mind. Bob Fenner>
 

Skimmer options for Reef tank 8/3/05 Hi crew, I have been reading over your articles for the past few days on skimmers and I feel even more confused then before!! <Sometimes it is hard to wade through the sea of info!  No pun intended <g>.> I recently converted my 75 gallon freshwater tank to a reef setup and before I start to stock it with corals and some fish I am trying to get a good skimmer squared away.  I'm currently using a sea clone 150 (I know bad call) and I am noticing that it does not seem to skim......at all.  <This skimmer really does perform poorly.  Many aquarists have modified them to perform better, but such tinkering shouldn't be required and still results in mediocre performance.> I have algae forming which the crabs I got are taking care of, and my tank has just recently finished cycling with 30 lbs of live rock, live sand, and 2 (started with 5) blue/green gobies. <All good, although it was not necessary to sacrifice the gobies for the cycle.  Live rock die off produces plenty of ammonia to cycle on it's own.> Ph is 8.2, Salinity is just slightly high past 32, and 0 nitrite and about 10ppm nitrate.  Don't have calcium measure yet as I'm awaiting the test kit for it. <Please also get an alkalinity test kit and maintain proper alkalinity.  IMO, this is the most important thing to measure besides pH and salinity and may be the most under appreciated water parameter in reef tanks!> Back to my question though....a sump is out of the question for me at the moment as I don't feel I understand them enough, and I don't feel I have the room.  I feel this is limiting my options in skimmers, but that's the situation at the moment.  <There isn't much to understand.  The water drains from the tank to the sump and is pumped back.  There are many benefits, and in most cases a perfectly adequate sump will fit nicely right under the tank.  Nothing special is required either, a plain standard glass aquarium or even a plastic storage container can work well.  Having the display drilled for drains is helpful, but hang on overflow units work fine too.  A sump is by no means necessary, but do at least consider looking into it!> I'm not sure which type of skimmer/pump combo would work good.  I'm really not wanting to spend more than about 200-300 dollars on a skimmer/pump combo.  Any recommendations?  <Aqua-C Remora pro would be my first choice and a CPR BakPak II would be distant second.  Both of these skimmers have a low profile and don't require a lot of clearance.  Deltec's are outstanding, but very expensive.  Most other models cannot be recommended.> I sent the original note before and forgot to include another question I had!  For mechanical filtration I am using two emperor 400's, one of the reasons I went with the sea clone was a space constraint on the back of the tank.  After looking at some other skimmers, I was wondering if it would be viable to take down one of the emperor 400's and replace wit with a CPR BAK-PAK2?  Would I be giving up too much mechanical filtration?  Thanks again! <Many reef keepers forgo all mechanical filtration, especially if the tank and/or sump contain a sand bed where living organisms can process particulate waste.  Also, the highly aerobic conditions in power filters tend to cause nitrate accumulation by out competing live rock for ammonia and nitrite processing.> Thanks for the help!  John <Glad to!  Best Regards.  AdamC.> Skimmer and Pump for Reef part 2 8/9/05 Ok, I have been doing some reading and a sump does seem like it may be an option now.  I found an old 30 gallon aquarium I'm going to use. <This will work very well!> Would you still recommend the same skimmers? <Probably not.  Although the hang on units have in-sump counterparts, I would choose a model designed for in-sump use.  IMO, Aqua-C and Euroreef are top notch in ease of use and performance and have realistic ratings.  Again, Deltec is top of the line, but quite expensive.> If I have it right I need to put live sand in the sump as well as the skimmer.  Add in a pump to pull and return the water from the display into the sump.  I think that's right. <The sump can be as simple as an empty box, but is useful for holding a skimmer, heaters and other equipment that is inconvenient or unsightly to keep in the display.  No live sand is required, but some folks do choose to also use their sump as a refugium, in which case, various sand, rock and algae may be kept.  Water drains passively from the display tank to the sump and then actively pumped from the sump back to the display.> Also, lighting, what type of lighting do I have to have for the sump if its under the main tanks display stand?  I'm assuming it needs to have some. <If it is only to function as a sump, then no light is required.  If you would like to also use the sump as a refugium, then lights may be required.> Thanks a lot Adam I really appreciate your help.  The people at the LFS have great fish, but are always just trying to sell me something that I may not always need! <Glad to help out!  Best Regards.  AdamC.> Skimmer and Pump for reef part 3 8/12/05 Thanks for the reply Adam.  Just figured I would send you an update.  I found a local shop that does custom marine setups.  All from fabricating stands and drilling tanks to stocking them.  The owner was very nice and loved supporting the local people as well as businesses wanting to setup tanks. <Outstanding!  A local place that provides good products and knowledgeable service is well worth supporting!> I brought in my 29 gallon tank I had and we are adding partitions to make it a refugium.  I also ended up purchasing an AquaC Urchin Pro they had to install in it.  Should be done by the weekend or so for me to pick up. Thanks again for your advice Adam, much appreciated.  <I am sure you will be very pleased with your new system!  Glad to have been of assistance.  AdamC.>

Reef Filtration 7/7/05
Dear WWM Crew,
First I'd like to say that your oasis of information is the best I've found on or off the web.  Also, I apologize before hand for the lengthy message. But, I have kind of  a custom question.  I just "re-setup" my marine aquarium to be a reef system. (removed my lovely under gravel filter)  I have no fish in the aquarium and never did.  What it now has is as follows:  30g all glass aquarium, 42 lbs. Caribbean LR, 10 lbs. Fiji LR, 10g plenum sump,  192 watt Coralife Compact Fluorescent light (96 watt actinic, 96 watt 10000K), SeaClone 100 skimmer, a Penguin 350 Bio-wheel, and 2 AquaClear 301 powerheads. ( I think that's every thing).
My question; Is this enough filtration?
<For a light bio-load, yes>
Should I take something out?  
<Mmm, no>
Add something?
<Depends...>
I only use RO water.  I don't plan on adding a large bio load, only 2 True Perc's, a Royal Gramma and some LPS corals. Will this system be able to take care of the nitrates?
<With light feeding, regular water changes...>
    I've been keeping marine aquariums for a while but can never find a straight answer about chemical and mechanical filtration for reefs. Just tell me what your personal opinion is.  Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Andrew Schreiner
<Try it out... and do keep reading. Bob Fenner>

Nutrient Export vs. Recycling (5/9/05)
Hi, I have a question which I actually came up with by reading the FAQ's on your site. I have just started up a 2 phase refuge system. One aquarium houses primarily sand, live rock, and a very small amount of macroalgae. This one is for copepod, amphipods, etc.. to grow in. 
<sounds good> 
The second on is filled with just macroalgae in an attempt to remove any excess nutrients. I came up with this idea from one of Dr. Shimek's articles (Food production by Design, Using a Refugium to Produce Food for Reef Inhabitants). I have read in areas on your page and some other web sites that when you trim back your macroalgae, you can feed it to your tangs. However, I recently read an article in Coral magazine (forgive me I do not remember the issue date...I just remember the main focus of that magazine was Nudibranchs) where an aquarist did not recommend feeding this algae to your tangs because it would simply put the removed nutrients back into the water column through the fish's feces and urine. Is this true and what do you recommend. Thanks for all of your time. Jonathan
<Steve Allen with you tonight Jonathan. Some simple logical thought reveals the error in the thinking behind the author's statement. If you don't feed some of this algae to your Tangs, you have to feed them something else, right? So the nutrients you are "removing" by not feeding any algae are simply replaced by whatever food you buy and feed. The algae in the refugium is "free." I use quotes because you paid for the other food that became nutrients for the algae and for the electricity that became the light needed for photosynthesis. 
Anyway, the key to nutrient export is to discard a portion of the algae, but not necessarily all of it. Discarding algae removes nutrients, while feeding it to your Tangs recycles them. The algae makes great food. Do bear in mind that your Tangs are very unlikely to eat Chaetomorpha and many not go for Caulerpa either. The best Tang food is Gracilaria (hard to grow--search WWM). Ulva is another possible choice. 
Bottom line: the fish need a certain amount of food each day to grow and thrive. You can put it all into the system new as purchased food, or you can make some of it recycled by feeding some of the algae from your refugium to them. The fish produce various wastes, some of which are "fertilizer" that can be bound up in algae. The rest consists of chemicals that must be removed by other means, as in water changes and possibly carbon as well. Go ahead and feed some of your harvest to your Tangs and discard the rest.> 

Reef/Filtration
Hello,
I'm converting my 55 gallon freshwater planted tank to a saltwater tank eventually a reef. And I would like to have no mechanical filtration, is it possible to use live rock and frequent water changes as sole filtration? If this is not possible, what are my options in filtration that requires few mechanical devices. 
<Yes, the live rock filtration seems to be the trend right now. I would also suggest using a protein skimmer, well worth the cost. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks for any help!
<You're welcome>
-Stephen

- Reef Filtration Change - 
Setup: 100 gallon tank, 50 gallon rubber maid (sump) 2 inches crushed coral in main tank, 300 lbs cured Fiji live rock in main tank ( full of color, sponges, coralline, very colorful.. no algae). 260 watts pc lighting, venturi protein skimmer designed for up to a 200 g tank. Coralife 18watt U.V filter.... oh and 2 750g/hr pumps in sump for pumping water back into tank. + 2 small Rio pumps in display tank for circulation.  Water enters sump through overflow through filter pad then pumped back in to display tank. Skimmer is in sump. U.V as well. My question is: With this setup, can I eliminate the filter pad and add some kind of filter sock (ex: those small ones sold for holding media)? <Sure.> 
I have access to more cured live rock. Having 300+ lbs already, would I benefit from adding more (in refugium within the sump lets say)? 
<No... you probably have enough. By adding any more than the large amount you already have, you are affecting the actual water volume of the system. You still need water in there.>
I recently learned about DSB effects/benefits. Having all this live rock, would I benefit from adding a DSB in a refugium(20 g Rubbermaid) within the sump or from adding more live rock? 
<A deep sand bed is almost always useful, but recall what I just said, what's most important in this system is water... if you add much more material that displaces water, you'll have a 100 gallon tank with 20 gallons of water.> 
Tank has been established for about 3 yrs. Some small soft corals...about 7 total, plus blue tang, 2 percula clowns and rose anemone, mandarin goby, tiny snowflake eel and orange-shoulder tang. They have always gotten along fine... no bullies... all fish fed once a day (except eel which is fed 1 to twice a week). Also have clean up crew (about 50 blue and red hermits, turbo snails, etc.) 0 nitrites and ammonia, but nitrates have always been an issue until I recently got rid of all the bioballs, SLOWLY of course. Is a DSB just a cheap alternative to live rock? 
<They provide different functions. Would encourage you to read the articles on deep sand beds on Wet Web Media.> Thanks for all your help!  Rico
<Cheers, J -- >

100g reef filtration change de James!
Setup: 100 gallon tank, 50 gallon Rubbermaid (sump) 2 inches crushed coral in main tank, 300 lbs cured Fiji live rock in main tank ( full of color, sponges, coralline, very colorful.. no algae). 260 watts pc lighting, venturi protein skimmer designed for up to a 200 g tank. Coralife 18watt U.V filter.... oh and 2 750g/hr pumps in sump for pumping water back into tank. + 2 small Rio pumps in display tank for circulation.  Wate