Zeolite in Salt water
Hi, <Hi Roger, MacL here with you tonight>
Thank you in advance for your time. In my 40 gallon FOWLR and anemone, with a few hermits snails etc.. I run a emperor 400 with bio wheels, my problem is this. Yesterday I changed the carbon to MARINELAND'S DIAMOND BLEND, Which I believe is Activated Carbon and Zeolite or similar. <Yes it is and its totally useless in Saltwater. The Zeolite won't work with salt.> Today, I read on the container it says  " freshwater only"
I will remove it as soon as I can. But I'm wondering what the difference is between carbon for fresh and salt" is it the pore size? <The carbon is the same but the Zeolite won't work in salt and in fact might cause you problems.> " and will this current carbon blend hurt anything, and why freshwater only? <Totally inactive in salt.> Once again, thank you for any reply, you guys are the best! <Hope that helps.>
Sincerely,                                                                              
      Roger

Can I put crushed coral in my canister filter?
Dear WWM Crew,
<< Blundell here. >>
  Is there any benefit in using crushed coral as a filter media? << I think so.  It provides great surface area. >> Will that
have any positive impact on pH or alkalinity? << I don't really see how it will, but it can't hurt. >> I've been using a H.O.T magnum
filter as a mechanical filter/water polisher with the micron cartridge. This
task will now be performed by an Eheim 2213 canister filter with nylon wool
stuff. That leaves the magnum without a job -I have an Eheim 2227 wet/dry
for the biological filtration. Rather than running the Magnum empty, I was
thinking of filling it with crushed coral, so as to slow down the erosion of
my DSB. << I've thought of this before, but can't really see how it will be dissolving.  However, there really aren't any reasons not to. >> Can I use crushed coral/dolomite or some sort of media meant for a
calcium reactor?
Thank You,
Narayan
<<  Blundell  >>
PS. Adam, my QT has been running for a week now. I'm ready to get a cleaner
goby now.. Thanks.

Concerns with adding crushed coral to a canister filter.7/29/04
You guys know your stuff and I hate to criticize, but I think this response was off. At the very least a caveat about possibly damaging the motor of the filter should have been offered (as small pieces of coral are likely to break loose). << That is a good point, that I overlooked.  There are possible problems with this idea.  I should also mention that I do have canister filter with crushed coral in it, but I don't use it anymore.  I do still use my BioWheel filter, and I pulled out the filter pads and filled that space with sand and rubble rock.  On occasion, the sand will get in the impeller area and get plugged up.  But it isn't that difficult to get going again.  So there definitely are risks to consider, but overall I like the idea of extra surface area in the areas of high water flow. Thanks for the email. >>
L<<  Blundell  >>

- Use of Chemicals -
Hi Crew,
Thanks for your help in the past and now for a question regarding the use of a type of product. Dr. Foster carries it and it is called HyperSorb and the pitch is: A synthetic absorbent that removes organics, stabilizes the ionic balance, helps control ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. There are other similar products. Would a product like this cause a reduction in the bacteria population of a fully cycled system by reducing the available ammonia? <It might - would be a competitor for the resource.> I am looking for a way to reduce nitrates but I do not want to lose the natural cycle I already have which results in zero ammonia and nitrites for the load in my tank. <Best to up the amount of live rock and also step up the water changes - perhaps 5% a week.
Cheers, J -- >

Media sans phosphates please
Hello!!  Sorry to bother you guys with this newbie question.  I will make
this real easy and short.  My first question is:
1)  Can you name a few carbon media that will not leach phosphate?  << I think most carbon media is the same, but I use Black Diamond made by Marineland >>
2)  Can you name a few phosphate remover media that will not leach
phosphate?  << All phosphate removers can leach phosphate, after they absorb it.  However, they absorb far more than they will leach.  Basically when it turns from a white color to a tan color, it is probably "used up" and should be replaced. Hope that helps. >>
Thanks!!! <<  Adam Blundell  >>

Filtration Conundrum (3/29/04) 
Hi,<Hi. Steve Allen here.> 
46 gallon bow/Aqua C Remora/Live Rock/Live sand/Power heads. Want to know about mechanical filtration. You talk about adding a canister filter best option, but then people say that is attracts phosphates? <Actually, nitrates if detritus is allowed to build up in it.> They say to remove the bio stuff, but if I add a Phosphate remover stuff (Rhoa phos??) In the filter, can I just leave everything alone. <Phosphate removers have to be taken out frequently. Again, it's nitrates that are the main issue with a canister. You can test for phosphates and use a remover if needed.> 
They have lots of options to add to the filter (Eheim 2217): 
http://www.marinedepot.com/IMD/fl_classic_media.jpg > 2217 
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_filter_media_eheim.asp?ast= 
Should I use all of this with a phosphate remover. should I remove any of these? Should I use a canister filter at all? <Not sure who told you a canister is best. My personal preference is a HOT power filter such as an AquaClear. It's so quick to change the media. If you don't have space for one, then a canister is a viable option, but you will need to clean it out frequently. Test for phosphate and remove as needed. Carbon also needs to be changed a lot an you need a brand that does not leech phosphate.> 
Also, instead of adding this, I was looking at the little Berlin sump (BS1) under my tank, is that a better choice, will that do the filtering? <Sumps are always nice, but not if you have to use a siphon overflow. Only drilled overflows are safe from floods. You use a floss bag on the pile leading to the sump for mechanical filtration and can put bags of carbon of phosphate remover into that bag.> Can I add the phosphate remover there? <Yes> Wow, choices are tough! <Indeed, no one way is clearly best for all. I'd really choose a HOT power filter over a cartridge or a sump that relies on J-tube siphons.> Mark <Hope this helps.>

Cleaning a poly filter - 1/28/04
Aloha WWM Crew, <Aloha>
Thank you very much for the wonderful service you provide. <Thank you for being part of it> I have a quick question regarding poly filters. <As in the product made by Poly Bio Marine Inc???>  I have been using poly filters to help control phosphate in my 120 FOWLR. <OK>  How often should I be cleaning the poly filters and how should I clean them? <This is right off their site: "How does an Aquarium Hobbyist regenerate Poly-Filter® for reuse in an aquarium?"
"Poly-Filter® is not an ion-exchange resin, therefore it does not exchange ions or anything else back into freshwater, saline, natural or synthetic seawater aquaria. Due to the complex nature of the metabolic waste products ad/absorbed into poly-Filter® ----- there is no safe method of cleaning a Poly-Filter®. You may rinse Poly-Filter® in Distilled Water (USP Grade) to help remove organic particulate matter. Never rinse Poly-Filter® with bleach or chlorinated water - chlorine reacts with ad/absorbed organic matter producing toxic volatile organic chemicals." See here:  http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/polyfaq.htm > I was going to bleach them, but someone told me that it can cause chemicals to leach into the tank. <Yep> I would just purchase new ones, but they are pretty expensive here in Hawaii. <They are pretty expensive everywhere, but a great and safe product. Purchase away!!!! ~Paul>  
Mahalo Nui Loa,
Jeff

Zeolite, in seawater, Bio-Spira Marine for cycling
Ian:
Just a quick note with no need to post.
I noticed your reply to the folks with the ammonia of 4 and pH of 7.2. They
mentioned that they are using Ammo-Carb. This is a combo product of Zeolite
and charcoal. Zeolite absorbs ammonia in FW aquariums but is useless in SW.
In fact SW is used to remove the ammonia from the Zeolite  to recharge it
for re-use. I doubt it's actually harming anything for them, but it's
certainly not doing any good.<Thanks for the info!>
Have you ever heard of Bio-Spira Marine?<No I haven't...I am not too
familiar with many new chemicals.. treatments that make it on the market :(> It is a new live bacteria product
that instantly cycles a tank if used correctly. <wow> Must be refrigerated. It
might help these folks, but I'd bet their pH of 7.2 would kill it.<probably so> It may be
worth suggesting to people in need of a rapid increase in biofiltration. I
have used both Bio-Spira and Bio-Spira Marine with excellent results.<good to hear and I will
post this, good luck and happy holidays, IanB>
Steve Allen

Purigen for Nitrate Issues?
>Was wondering if you knew anything more about Purigen?  
>>Sorry, never heard of it, shall Google.
>I currently have a 55 gallon fish only system.  My nitrates are through the roof, anywhere
between 80ppm to 160 ppm.  I change 10 gallons of water about every other week.  
>>Well, you won't see results using that method.  Do a 75% w/c (do test the makeup water both before and after you mix the salts for nitrate), then retest.  Then, address initial nutrient export and conversion issues.
>I bought Algone to see if that would help with the problem, I've only had Algone in the filter for about a week now.  Does Algone even work?  
>>HIGHLY doubtful, tossing in one chemical to remove another when we can utilize naturally occurring microbes doesn't make much financial sense to me, my friend.  Consider a deep sand bed (for its denitrification abilities using anaerobic bacteria to convert nitrate to nitrogen gasses and other components), as well as a refugium for initial nutrient export issues that are leading to such high nitrate readings in the first place.
>I figured I would buy it cause for 8 dollars where could I go wrong.   
>>I'm an exceedingly frugal woman, Scott, and you'll be hard-pressed to get me to throw away $8!  It makes more sense, in the long run, to address these concerns (have you skimmate?  If so, is it efficient?) via other methods, and in the short term do at LEAST one 75% w/c.  You very well may have to do two, back to back, in this situation, but honestly, if you're gonna toss the money into the Algone, it's better spent on fresh water for your wards.  Just Googled it, it's a Seachem product, and I DO like Seachem, but again, it makes MUCH more sense to address these issues from the get-go, rather than go to such a product.  However, being Seachem, I would expect it to do as purported.
>Thank you again for your time.  Scott
>>You're welcome.  Marina

- PolyFilter -
How long do Polyfilters last? <Depending on the system they are used on, the bioload etc... probably not useful for more than two weeks, perhaps less.> How many times can they be washed and reused? <They can be washed and reused as often as you like, but after the first use, it is just a normal filtration pad - the PolyFilter magic is gone and cannot be practically recharged.>
Ana
<Cheers, J -- >

Rowaphos
I have seen this product ROWAphos mentioned many times but have been unable to find an on-line source.  Can anyone tell me where I can purchase this product?
<There are a few place I know of in the US that carry it. North coast marine, Reef Reflections, and Coral Clips. You should be able to find what you are looking for at one of these places (great product) MikeH>
Your help and advise has been invaluable.  Thank you!

- Chemical Filtration & Makeup Water Heating -
I have done some reading about the two products Chemi-pure and Phos-Zorb.  They sound like really good products for my reef tank.  What I would like to do is place these two in a hang off the side filtration system will they work that way? <Yes.> I have several dual chambered hang off side systems lying around from my cichlid days.  Not worried about unsightliness because I bought a tall tank and stacked the live rock all the way up to the water line.  It gave the tank an interesting effect.  I have fish living in an almost apartment style from top to bottom. I installed mirrors on the wall in back of the tank with dim lights to see what goes on back there.  A lot let me tell you. It's a regular dance club. Complete with bass players and a sand bar.  I also have several corrals put on the rocks I took the time to make sure all are secure ( I built little PVC holders custom made for each coral to keep them off of the rocks and out far enough  to let them fully expand and grow.  Very ugly at first but now all are overgrown with coralline algae) I put light lovers at the top, deeper water ones down at the bottom, aggressive corals with plenty of room.  I also have a few anenomes in and around the rocks.  Very aggressive skimming a Sea-Clone 100 (I know not the best skimmer, but I made a few modifications on the air inlet valve and now I get a whole lot of brown goo in the cup about every other day.)  The reason I wanted to know about these two products is I use a very simple filtration system.  A gravity flow of water from the bottom of the tank into a modified plastic bucket filled with floss and activated charcoal and a big power head to pump it back up into the tank. I guess really the power head helps suck the water through the filter so it is more of a gravity assisted filter.  It has worked well for over three years, Sea-Clone 8 months,  but I want to do the best I can for my conversation piece (aquarium).    Also I keep 33 gallons of salt water for my every two week ritual of water changes, I only aerate it.  I have been reading that some people heat their water in the container. <I'd be one of those people.> I always thought this to be a grey area. <Not in my mind.> Should I keep all 33 gallons at 78F or heat it just before I use it? <Yes... or at least heat it up a day or two before you use it - adding water that is not temperature matched to the tank can be a source of stress for your animals.>
Thanks ahead of time, Craig
<Cheers, J -- >

Too much chemical filtration?
Hello,
I'm currently using a combination of SeaChem's SeaGel (a mix of carbon and PhosGuard) and PolyFilters on my aquarium.  
My question is this:  Is there any benefit to using both types of chemical media?   Could I safely stop using one chemical medium or the other and save myself some money?
Thanks.
I've been using the SeaGel and PolyFilters since the tank  was started up about 5 months ago.  I had a huge hair algae problem about a month ago which is gone since adding the snails.  I change the water twice a week using Instant Ocean salt and RO water, and change the chemical media every other water change (and stagger the change).
<you can safely stop adding poly filter and keep using the SeaGel Mike H>

Recharging Phosguard?
Hello Guys,
<Scott F. your guy tonight>
I hope all is well in paradise...
<Couldn't be better!>
I have another question. I am given to believe that Seachem's Phosguard once used can be recharged and used again. Is this true?
If it is, can some one please advise me how it is done?
<Well, I'd recommend that you contact Sea Chem to get the facts on this. They are very helpful folks who really know their products. In all honesty, I generally avoid attempting to recharge most media...I really (and, possibly wrongly) believe that you're better served simply buying more product...Many recharge methods are time consuming and messy, and if not executed correctly, can be worthless! That's my two cents worth on the subject- but do contact Sea Chem...>
Thanks again and again, Jorell
<You're welcome! Regards, Scott F.>

- Losing Fish, Follow-up -
Hi
But I thought with Chemipure I would not need to replace the saltwater for up to five year? <I should hope not... I've never trusted anything that promises 'no water changes' and there's no filter media I am aware of that would last five years. To keep your fish healthy, you simply must do regular small water changes, otherwise your fish end up living in their own filth. Five percent a week or 10% every two weeks is a good interval for water changes, but it's not wise to wait much more than that.>
By the way, I have check my PH level, it is at 8, so it is at a healthy level. <Uhh... pH should be in the range of 8.2-8.4 so 8.0 is actually lower than it should be.>
I mentioned my tank as 2ft tank not 2ft long apologize if I mislead you. <I still not sure I follow - what are the dimensions of your tank?>
Cheers
Terence
<Cheers, J -- >

Polyfilter help
The book is great!   
<Yes, a wonderful read and resource. Those involved did a great job eh?>
So glad I pre-ordered as it was well worth the wait.   I was wondering if anyone can help me figure out how to incorporate Polyfilter into my tank.   I have a 55 gallon with live rock, live sand and a small H.O.T. refugium that used to be a H.O.T. wet/dry.  The only skimmer box feeds the refugium which then empties back into the tank by means of a power head.   I also have H.O.T. Remora Pro and a H.O.T. Ultraviolet light.   I can't figure out how to incorporate either carbon or PolyFilter just to add a little extra clarity to the water and pick up anything my live rock and sand might miss. I have four powerheads that add circulation and seem to have good water movement.   I would appreciate any ideas you could come up with.   
<All you need is a location that has good water movement. Do you have the skimmer box that is available for the Remora Pro? If so, you can put the carbon/poly filter in the outflow side. In addition the skimmer box is really worth the money and increases the output/quality of the Remora IME. Or, you could get a small HOT power filter (re: used/cheap? like the AquaClear 300 and use the carbon bag and power filter instead of the foam. Take care, Don>

-Turboflotors and hair algae-
Thanks for the quick reply, yes it is hair algae. When I purchased the Turboflotor 1000 it said for tanks up to 250g, is this wrong.
<I suppose that would depend on who you ask. I rate it for a 50-75g mixed reef.>
Only one of my return lines goes through the UV sterilizer. If I remove the DSL from my wet dry and use the chambers for Carbon and/or Chemipure should that help with the hair algae?
<Neither the carbon or the Chemipure will help, use phosphate remover even though it's not detectable. Good luck, -Kevin>

Chemical filtration requirements...
hey guys....
Thanx for previous help.  You guys are very helpful!!!!
<Howdy, Kevin here today>
I have a question regarding filter media.  I've visited many websites, and now I'm kinda confused on what is good media to use.  
I have 46 gal tank, and I'm using Fluval 404 filter - media: sponges, carbon, ammonia remover, bio-max (ceramic rings).  I change ammonia remover and carbon every 30 - 40 days, I do weekly water changes (30%) and I treat the tap water with Aqua Plus. The tank has been set up for 2 years now, and I haven't had any major problems. Water parameters are very stable.
I would really like to hear you opinion on what filter media I should use.  
The reason why I'm asking, couple weeks ago I went to local pet store, and I ended up getting two Burundi Frontosas (they're only inch and a half so far).  Guy at the pet store assured me that they will be fine in my tank for year or so (I'm was planning to upgrade next year).  So far they're doing really good in the current tank.  I'm not having any problems with them.  In last reply to my question Ryan told me that they will quickly outgrow my tank, and I shouldn't keep them in such a small tank.  Well instead going back to the fish store and trying to get my money back, I've decided that I will get a 100 gal tank ( I've been always wanting one ) and I'll create a Lake Tanganyika set up.  
Anyhow back to the filter media question.  I would really appreciate your opinion on the media to use, since having two tanks set up my media expanses will go up, and setting up the 100 gal will already cost me a fortune.  But if it is necessary to maintain my tanks the way I've been doing it for past two years by all means I won't hesitate.  I want my fish to be happy.  
Oh yeah, on the 100 gal tank, I'm planning to use Fluval 404, and Aquaclear 300.
<Sounds like you're on the right track. From your description, the only thing that you're changing with any frequency is the ammonia remover and activated carbon. I don't see any problem there, although changing carbon at least once a month is pretty much mandatory (it only really removes stuff for a few days then in time leaches them back in). With a 100, a 30% monthly water change should suffice. Good luck with the new tank! -Kevin>
I'm looking forward to see your suggestions.
Thanx!!!
Daniel.

Reef tank to freshwater...
I wrote a few days ago, asking advice on the freshwater tank slated to replace my 45 gal.  Having found that my time was not sufficient to properly maintain a small reef (where bad things happen quickly), I traded all my livestock (13 years old!) and rock to a great SW store and got credit towards an Oceanic "reef ready" (180 gal). <That's too bad...> I mentioned before that I planned to use bio balls in a wet-dry sump.  I would also like to use Poly filter-- but where? <Wet/dry filters have a thing called a drip plate located above the bio-balls where a piece of filter pad is usually located. You can put a poly filter right on that plate.>  Should I get an Eheim canister for mechanical and poly filter, or should I just toss a couple of poly pads in an area of the sump with sufficient water flow? <Try my suggestion> Or would a wet dry system with sponge prefilters do just as good a job?  
<Good luck with this tank! -Kevin>
thanks
tom

Water Quality And Chemical Filtration Media
Dear Scott,
<Hello there!>
Is brown algae on the glass a nuisance algae indirectly implying that high nitrates and phosphates rare present?
<Well, it is implying that there is some type of nutrient in the water that is fueling its growth. Usually, the culprit turns out to be silicate, often found in source water. Of course, sometimes it can be a number of other substances, too- like the phosphates and nitrates that you mentioned. The importance of quality source water, good husbandry practices, and aggressive use of protein skimming and chemical filtration media cannot be stressed enough, IMO!>
I was recommended by many LFS the product "Chemipure" which claims a "5 year no water change". I would like your opinion about the effectiveness about the product and its claims. I was told it would remove any excess nitrates and phosphates + other bad organics in the water.
<Chemipure is good stuff, IMO, and will remove many organics from the water. It will not, however (nor will ANY media, filter, or setup technique) eliminate the need for water changes! I cringe when I see that claim by Chemipure. I wonder what the tank looked like in year six? Just because one, or even 150 people, got lucky and didn't change their water for 5 years and spawned their clownfish repeatedly doesn't mean that you should do this! I mean, there is someone out there who drank a pint of Jose Cuervo and scarffed down two dozen jelly donuts one night, and his Flame Angels spawned the next day! Does that make it okay to do that to get your Flame Angels to spawn? Nope! Never forget that we are talking about closed systems which rely on our dedication, effort, and  careful observations for the healthy long-term maintenance of our animals. Change that water regularly!>
I have been adding vitamins to keep my fish strong and was worried whether it might remove the vitamins as well.
<Well, it very well might. However, if you are making those regular water changes, you will be replenishing the naturally occurring vitamins and trace elements in the water regularly. Frankly, I think that regular, frequent water changes can eliminate the need for many additives that we use in our tanks. By the way, I use products like Vita Chem regularly-=but I mix it with the fishes' foods...A better way to get them their vitamins, IMO.>
I was puzzled with your reply that the new fish should be smaller. I thought it needed to be bigger so as to be able to ward off the initial aggressiveness of the existing fish?
<You're right- this is a rather unorthodox approach...But it has worked well for me in the past. My experience shows that the larger fish sees the smaller "new guy" as less of a potential threat, and that, despite some initial skirmishes, the social order within the tank will settle down more quickly. My apologies to you for not mentioning this the first time, and for not clarifying that this is based on MY experience. Kind of irresponsible on my part! Just because it has worked for me does not mean that it will work for you! Take any advice with a grain of salt, and use it only if it makes sense for YOU!>
Thank U once again  :)
<Any time! Regards, Scott F>

Seachem Renew?
Hi. I was wondering how you felt about a carbon replacement by Seachem called Renew. I plan to use it in a 20g reef tank that has phosphate problems?
<I have used this product before. Like all Seachem products, it works as advertised. Purigen and Hypersorb by Seachem are good, too. Personally, I use Seachem's Matrix Caron. I like this stuff a lot, and it will not leach phosphates into your system. Use as instructed, and change it regularly. I also use Poly Filter pads in every system...they are a remarkable product, and a great compliment to a good grade of carbon, such as Seachem's . Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F>

Phosphate sponge and Poly filters (Poly-Bio Marine company)
Is there any downside risk to using a phosphate sponge?  
<they are quite effective and straightforward... a little strict though on usage. They must be removed after a day or two for most (heed mfg rec's) as they may degrade and throw adsorbed phosphate right back into the water>
Also, what is a poly filter?
<one of the best chemical filtrants IMO. They are ion exchange pads that chemically adsorb contaminants to aquarium water, last very long (perhaps over 6 weeks!) and change colors to indicate the nature of the dominant compounds adsorbed (red for iron, yellow for ammonia, blue for copper, etc).>
Thanks, Ana M.
<best regards, Anthony>

Copper in tapwater, removal with Polyfilter
hi  you answered me about copper the water plant i get it from says they don't add copper it sometimes leaks in from copper tubing from the faucet what is a PolyFilter ill buy one ASAP if it get out copper thanks JM  <A poly filter is just a white pad that will absorb pollutants, metals, etc.  When they absorb copper they will turn blue.  If your local fish store doesn’t have them check our sponsors.  Cody>

Polyfilter Use
can you put the PolyFilter in an already established reef tank? i could put it in my emperor filter<Yes and yes, Cody> thanks JM

Ammo-chips is Marine aquarium?
Hi, is it ok to use ammo-chips (by Aq. Pharmaceuticals) in marine aquarium, just in case there's any ammonia (prophylactic use).
Also, what is your opinion on the commercial nitrate removers (by Aqua Medic for instance). Would it make water changes less necessary?
<You cannot substitute for the benefits of regular small (10%) water changes. All that you listed are simply hiding another problem, not solving it. Hope this helps.>
Thank you,
<You are welcome, Don>
Luke

Ammo-Chips & Saltwater
Crew:
<Hi Steve, PF here tonight>
Thanks once more for your wonderful service to this challenging and therefore fascinating hobby.
<Thanks for the praise. : ) We do our best.>
I read the question about Ammo-Chips for saltwater ammonia control today. From bitter personal experience, I agree that no product is a substitute for good husbandry, parameter monitoring & water changes. I responded to a sudden, scary ammonia spike by using Amquel. I did not read the fine print about it lowering the pH. The resulting plunge in my pH from 8.2 to 7.4 killed all of my cleaner shrimp & brittle stars and wiped out my biofilter, thus causing the ammonia to skyrocket. My fish spent more than a month in a Rubbermaid container in my bathroom while I stabilized my system.
<Yikes! Sorry to hear about that. Hopefully someone else can learn from your misfortune.>
I would also like to point out that Ammo-Chips (and all other brands of Zeolite) only work in fresh water. They will not remove ammonia from saltwater. In fact, saltwater is used to recharge them (remove the ammonia from them in exchange for sodium) so they can be reused in freshwater aquaria.
<Interesting, I knew the chips didn't work in saltwater, and now I know why. Thanks for the info!>
Steve Allen
<Thanks for sharing Allen, we appreciate it. Have a good night, PF>

Salifert Phosphate Eliminator
Has Anyone Tried Salifert Phosphate Eliminator, I Heard It Works Great For A reef tank. Thanks Woody
<Well, Woody- I do not personally have experience with this product- but Salifert does have a reputation for quality products. I'd post a message on the WWM discussion board to see what other hobbyists have to say about the product. Regards, Scott F>

Using Polyfilters 3/30/03
Anthony what is the best way to put a poly filter in my 180 gal reef tank.
<its best to force water though it (not used passively). You can rig something like a large diameter PVC tube with poly-filter disks to catch effluent skimmed water or from a flow elsewhere (like a teed bleeder off the return pump). Else, packed into a cheap hang on power filter will be fine and give extra flow>
The only filter i use is a protein skimmer.    
<all good <G>>
RGibson  ps  take time to breathe so you will get that book
<heehee... yes, indeed... we are back to a crazy schedule. Fun but daunting at times. Kind regards, Anthony>

Returning from Quarantine after copper use
Hello again, 'crew'.
<Howdy>
I followed Don's advice and for the last 5 days have been running
Poly-Filter (you wouldn't believe the price of this stuff in Canada) and
carbon, trying to eliminate the copper (in tri-chelated form as included in
Organicure with formalin) before returning fish to display tank.  However,
so far the filter is turning red (I was expecting blue) and the copper
levels are not falling.
<Interesting... the reddish coloring generally portends iron removal... I would definitely check your test kit here for the copper>
The last treatment was 3 weeks ago and I have also
done water changes totaling approximately 60 gallons during this time to
help to bring copper and nitrites down. Oh yeah, in an ammonia spike panic I
also added Amquel detoxifier.
<It may well be that the Amquel is rendering a "false positive" in your testing here>
1) How long should the Poly Filter take to do its job and why would it be
red vs. blue?
<Should/will remove in a few hours to a day or so... the iron content has been mentioned>
2) What else can I be doing to keep a medicated QT tank cycled?
As mentioned I am water changing (using display water), pounding it with
Cycle, brought sponge in from display, etc. but given the lack of all other
things that help like substrate, live rock etc., it seems like a losing
battle.
<Mainly what you list and water changes, addition/switching out of pre-cycled media. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
and the linked file (above, in blue) on Quarantine... it's FAQs files>
My impatience at this point strictly relates to the stress that my
fish, particularly the clowns, continue to absorb. And Don, you were also
bang on re the damsels.
<Will relate to Don re. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again,
Ron

Using chemical nitrate removers - 02/17/03
Hello all:
<Hello! Ananda here…>
A question I'm a little embarrassed to ask as it seems rather simplistic; but in regards to chemical filtration (if that's the correct term) I currently use 2 products: Chemi-Pure and Cleanwater.  (Opinion on second?  I know the first is recommended on this board)
<No experience with it whatsoever – the only information I could find on it was on a Spanish-language retailer’s site. Thank goodness for online translation pages…it sounds like it’s a souped-up carbon replacement, if the manufacturer’s claims can be believed.>
My big question is proper placement and application. For instance: My big filter is the nitrate king Penguin 400.
<Hmmm. The Emperor 400 has the spray bar; the Penguin only goes up to 330. I have one of each, with the Emperor on a freshwater system and the Penguin on a brackish system. Nitrates are easily removed via water changes.>
My placement here was to move the carbon filters forward a notch so that there was room
to place the bags of above product behind them (in other words they are second in the flow) of course they promptly sank out sight... note these are not in any sort of cartridge - should they be??
<It would keep them from sinking out of sight…I would try putting them in the open-topped V-shaped media bins if you have them. The water will still move through them.>
The other bag (total of 3) is in my Skilter (modified) and it is in front of the carbon filter there as there was no way to move the filter from it's slot.  It also sank right to the bottom, so I pulled the top of the bag up a little and hooked it on the Skilter lid so that the bag hung in the middle instead of them bottom, but there seems to be no way of "flattening it" as the Manuf. Suggests...
<Is there any room in the Skilter to hang a (possibly modified) refillable media cartridge made by some other manufacturer? That’s about the only idea I’m coming up with.>
So - point me in the right direction here if I'm off
Next:  Am I wrong with thinking these things are effective at controlling nitrates? Or are they a sink in themselves??  
<Some might work, some won’t – and I suspect most could be a nitrate sink if left in place too long.>
I ask because I pulled my carbon filters from my Penguin the other day to rinse them off and upon reinstalling them I had to lift the Cleanwater bags up a bit since they had slid under the slot where the filters go, and when I looked down in my tank there was a cloud of "junk" like detritus floating around... a "Quick Dip" nitrate test showed them up to 160!!  (Up from about 40 the night before)
<The detritus not caught by the filter cartridges and the carbon in the filters are both potential nitrate sinks. You might consider rinsing them more frequently.>
I have a very lightly stocked 55g FOWLR so I would have noticed if something died - I accounted for all of them - there was no overfeeding, etc. as well.
Could these things have dumped all this in my water?
Xeones
<Could be from the filter cartridges not catching the stuff… but the original source is your fish and their wastes. You don’t mention how much live rock you have, or what you are using for substrate, so I would suggest you do some reading about deep sand beds and live rock. And do consider a skimmer upgrade. –Ananda.>

PolyFilter Rocks!
Dear Anyone,
<Scott F. your "Anyone" today>
How long, on average, does a Poly Filter pad last in a
trickle filter type sump?
<Depending upon organic load in your system, these can last anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks, in my experience. I like to change them every two weeks. It's an expensive habit, but healthier than smoking or something!>
I mean...I'm using it to detoxify an ammonia spike and
potential heavy metal Detox, and so far it's been in
here for two days and has basically turned a light
tan color.
<That's fairly normal...It means that it's removing organics...I'd dump it when it starts to take on a darker brown color...or- like I do- every two weeks... You should see how blue they get when you're removing copper from the water. very efficient at this>
Are these pads good for days, weeks, months?  I'm uncertain to how they even work.
<It's a very special manufacturing process, involving multiple steps and extraction...the end product is amazing. Visit Poly-Bio Marine's site for more information on these products>
I'm assuming the padding is impregnated with several chemicals that absorb toxins. but wont the pad leach these toxins back into the sump water if the pad is moved around every so often while performing routine maintenance.
<PolyFilters do not release absorbed organics back into the water.
Does one need to clean this pad every few days with fresh water rinse, then put it back in?
<Well, I'd rinse off any particulate matter that accumulated, but you will not be able to "rinse" out the absorbed products>
Can one regenerate the pad somehow by leaving it out in the sun like I do my phos-Sorb?
<Don't even think about it!>
The directions on the label are scant at best, and don't really get into detail on proper maintenance, re-use of the pad.
<"Cause there is no "reusing" these babies! Just put them in the water where they'll get decent flow, and through 'em away when they're used up.>
Thanks, Steve
<No problem, Steve>

Dear WWMCrew,
Thank you for taking the time to read this e-mail.  I have a few topics I need help with.
SNAIL ACCLIMATION
Currently when I purchase snails I add a cup of system water to the shipping bag every 10 minutes until salinity/ph/temp are the same.  I've read articles that say you should take them out of the shipping water for 10 minutes so they can expel excess water.  What do you recommend for acclimate snails?
<Float the bag in the tank so the water temp will be the same (45 minutes or so). Then start adding water to the bag like you are doing. I wouldn't take them out into the air at all except during the transition to their permanent home>
Also, I've been purchasing turbo snails.  I've read that these animals come from cooler water and should not be placed in warm water (75 to 78 degrees).  Is this true?  What species is most suitable for this temperature?
<I am not aware of this problem. You can buy these guys just about anywhere and they are widely used>
CHEMICAL FILTRATION
I've only been using poly-filters up to this point.
<Polys are expensive but work really well>
I would like to add Chemi-Pure for additional filtration.  I've read about several ways to do this:
1) Power Filter
Is there a recommended brand/model of power filter?  (My main concern is having enough room for the Chemi-Pure).
<Or canister filter. No specific model or brand>
2) Canister filter
My understanding of Chemi-Pure is that it is packaged in round bags.  Can this package fit properly into Eheim, Magnum and Fluval canister filters?  
<Oops...I jumped the gun didn't I! To my knowledge yes. A Fluval should be fine for your situation>
3) Chemical tray in sump
My wet/dry filter doesn't have a chemical tray.  I am in the process of removing the bio-balls and will have an empty compartment.  Could this be rigged for a chemical tray?  Do you have any suggestions for building my own chemical tray?
<You could do this but what's the use? All you would need is some egg crate and a few pieces of pvc for support. The trickle sound of the water would probably be pretty loud>
4) Carbon reactor/chamber
If the carbon chamber is the best approach, can you give me a few tips on how to make one?  I know it involves a pump and PVC placed vertically in the sump.  Does the pump fill the chamber from the top or the bottom?
<I have no experience with this item therefore I prefer not to comment>
XENIA
I placed my Xenia is high in my tank in moderate current.  I've read that they won't pulse in this type of current.  Should it be placed in low current?  Is pulsing a sign of healthy specimen?  Also, in it's current position it will be exposed to air during water changes.  Should I move it to a lower spot or change less of the water?
<Pulsing is a behavior that researchers don't understand very well. Anecdotal evidence suggests that Xenia like iodine supplements and a high pH (over 8.3) and <gasp> high nutrient levels! Pulsing has nothing to do with the health of a specimen. We don't really know why they pulse and we don't really know why they stop. If it's happy where it's at leave it. It can move on its on if it decides to>
MECHANICAL FILTRATION
Is the pre-filter on the overflow enough mechanical filtration or should I purchase a power or canister filter?
<Prefilter is a type of mechanical. If you put carbon in the canisters or power filter it becomes chemical. Do you have live rock and a good skimmer? Yes? Then you definitely won't need these other filters unless you want to put carbon in one>
PROTEIN SKIMMER
I placed my AquaC Remora in my sump.  My thought was that it would be better hanging off the sump than hanging on the tank.  This way it is fed water skimmed from the surface.  Is this a good place for it or would it be more effective on the display tank?
<Sounds perfect. Make it first in the sump. The water should not travel through any kind of filter before reaching the skimmer>
Looking forward to your response,
Jeremy G
<Thanks for the well though out questions! David Dowless>

Question about Purigen and its interaction with other water conditioners
Hello,
<Hi there>
First, thank you and congratulations for your site which provides plenty of information for new aquarium hobbyists as I!
<Delighted>
I would like to ask you a question about Purigen . I have bought a 100ml of Purigen , but I am reluctant to use it, as I found this text on Seachem's website, saying that Purigen may become toxic with some amine based slime coating products :
"Only certain slime coat products will cause Purigen (tm) to become toxic; the products that do this are amine based. Prime (tm) and Safe (tm) are not amine based and so will not cause this problem. If you're curious, what happens is that the amine compounds can strongly bind to the resin, then when they (the amines) come into contact with any chlorine they will form chloramines which are highly toxic. We offer a stress coat product, StressGuard (tm), which is not amine based and so can be used in conjunction with Purigen .(tm)"
The problem is that it's impossible for me to figure out if a product contains amines or not from reading from the ingredients. Right now I am using Tetra Aquasafe to condition the water of my aquarium, and sometimes I also use a bit of JBL Acclimatol as an anti-stress. Tetra Aquasafe says it provides slime coating for the fishes, as well as some vitamin B1. But I have no idea if Aquasafe is compatible with Purigen , and I am wondering if vitamin B1 contains amines which could interact with the resins in Purigen , as in vitamin there is "amine" (?).
Could you give me advices regarding this issue ?
<It is my opinion that you are safe using the B1 vitamin (and all other vitamins) together with the Purigen... I would not use Tetra AquaSafe in saltwater... or the JBL product, but instead adopt/adapt a pre-mix and storage protocol for water changes. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
Some water-conditioning products (e.g. Novalek's Amquel, Aquarium Pharmaceutical's StressCoat) contain PVP (polyvinyl pyrolidone)... and I suspect this is the source of chloramines that the folks at SeaChem are referring to. If you're insistent on utilizing water conditioners, I'd switch to all of one brand (like all Seachem's). Bob Fenner>
Thank you very much for your attention.

Improving Tap Water
Hi guys,
<Hi there! Scott F. here this evening!>
As I've stated in my previous emails, I am slowly converting from a FO to a reef tank. Right now I cannot afford an RO/DI unit.  I was wondering if a product like Seachem's Phosguard would be enough to get me by.
<Seachem makes fine products, but I don't think you can rely on a phosphate-removing resin alone to deal with phosphate on a continuous basis. I think that the best way to eliminate phosphate from aquariums is to do frequent, small water changes (like 5% twice a week). Much phosphate is regularly deposited in the aquarium through foods, so careful feeding is another thing you can do to reduce phosphate buildup in your tank. Perhaps you can treat your makeup source water with the phosphate removing resin before you mix the salt.>
I live in New York City.  Are there any other parameters (besides phosphates/silicates) that I should be concerned with in a city water supply?
<Many, many things, such as nitrate, heavy metals, chloramines, etc. A good grade of activated carbon in an inside box filter, placed in your makeup water container can help remove some of them. Using a product like PolyFilter in your system on a regular basis can remove a lot of detrimental substances from the water, too.>
As far as chlorine goes, do the salt mixes on the market like Coralife and Instant Ocean contain dechlorinators, or should I also be using a product like Amquel?
<I am not aware of any salt mixes that contain dechlorinating substances, so I'd use one of the products you mentioned, in addition to aging, filtering, and aerating the makeup water before its use>
If/when I can afford an RO/DI unit, can you recommend an efficient, low cost unit.  Also, what product should then be used to replace what the RO/DI removes from the water?
<There are a number of good units out there on the market available to hobbyists. I'd recommend a DI unit instead of an R/O for its efficiency and lack of excessive waste water production. Do check our advertisers on the wetwebmedia.com site for the manufacturers and models that they carry>
Thanks again, Adam
<And thank you, Adam, for stopping by!>

Phosphate Removal
I am using Sea Chem Phos-Guard, changing it monthly. Am I wasting my money? I have a FOWLR using RO water. I get the impression that chemical phosphate removers are not really effective. Thanks, Michael
<This product, like many phosphate removing media, does have a limited degree of effectiveness. It certainly can remove some phosphate, if used according to the manufacturer's directions. On a personal note, I have never found most phosphate removal media to be as effective as we'd like them to be! IMO, it's far better to eliminate the source of the phosphate that you are encountering, rather than removing it once it's in the system. A good RO/DI unit should yield product water with virtually undetectable levels of phosphate. If you are experiencing high levels of phosphates in your system, re-examine your husbandry techniques. Allowing the juices from frozen foods to get into your tank is a common, and major, source of additional phosphate in a closed system. Be sure to execute regular, small water changes (like weekly or more often, if possible), and employ aggressive protein skimming, with attention paid to cleaning the  skimmer often. If you are already employing these techniques and are still experiencing high phosphate levels, do look into the source water and your RO unit's membranes (perhaps they need replacing?). Good luck with your efforts!>

Diatom Algae and Poly Filters
Dear Craig,
How do you do?
<Pretty good Mimie, how goes the battle?>
In regard to the above, I am slowly but surely surmounting the seemingly insurmountable diatom problem. I've augmented my efforts by adding some macroalgae (Ulva and Gracilaria) apart from the Caulerpa Racemosa. What are your thoughts? Also ordered CombiSan to help bolster the growth of my corallines.
Best, MER
<The macroalgae are fine as long as you or fish keep them harvested in order to remove/transfer nutrients out of your system.
Also keep in mind some of these, like Caulerpas, secrete agents into your water that can limit growth of corals, etc. It can also suffer die back that can cause problems, so be watchful of your Caulerpa. I think you would be better served by regular dosing for Kalkwasser and a buffer/alkalinity supplement. Most of these other supplements are a waste of money. Have fun!  Craig>

Keeping It Green
Hello Crew:
<Scott F. today>
I have added Greenex to my  quarantine tank for one of my fish.  I have added Greenex to the tank with PolyFilters in filtering system.  Can I leave the poly filters in, or do I need to take them out while adding the Greenex.
<I would remove PolyFilters during disease treatment with medication. Among other things, these pads excel at removing medications from the water!>
Company indicates one drop per net water amount, if I add few drops too much, what are consequences?
<This medication can be very powerful, and create disastrous consequences if over- dosed. I've heard some really bad results from using it incorrectly...Not a big fan of this product, myself>
Too little, not effective? Lastly, company indicates three treatments every other day, then no treatment for three days later? Is that standard protocol?
<I'd follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, when using this, or any other medication.>
Thanks for the assistance and have a nice day.
Regards, Mendy1220
<Glad to be of service! Good luck! Scott>

Life Span of Chemical Filtration Media
Hey gang, I have read many things about "activated" carbon and how long the activation lasts, once read a study that claimed only 6 hours. I run an Aquaclear filter with only a small bag with about a small cup of carbon in it (black diamond), what are your thoughts on how often I should change this carbon (been doing so weekly, but it isn't cheap stuff), as well as HBH's phosphate pads.
<The useful life of carbon is subject to a lot of debate among hobbyists. I personally use carbon in filter bags in every set up (in the sumps), and generally rotate through the bags every other week. One measure of the effectiveness of carbon is it's ability to remove discolorants. You can determine this by holding a sample of system water against a white piece of paper. If the water looks clear, then it can be presumed that the carbon still has some useful life left. If it's discolored, it's time to replace the carbon. Personally- I find this a bit tedious, and just change it (the carbon) out regularly!>
Been having a heck of a time with hair algae since I stopped using these pads, picked more up today. How often should the piece I use in my sump's first tray be replaced?
<I don't have much experience with phosphate removing products, with the exception of PolyFilter, which generally changes color when it's exhausted. Its generally best to follow the manufacturer's instructions when using these products. Frankly, you should review your source water for phosphate, and consider the purchase of an R/O unit down the line. It will certainly save you money in the long run over purchasing those pads constantly! I think these kinds of pads are great to supplement your other chemical filtration media, such as carbon, but they too often become a "crutch", and it's far better to determine the cause of the algae problem and eliminate it, rather than to "treat the symptom". I'll bet you'll easily solve the algae problem once you identify the cause!>
Give you the run down on my tank once again....
130g with sump bio balls being slowly removed, good protein skimmer (cup o day of nasty dark gunk),200-220 pounds of mainly Fiji, Florida and some indo rock, Picasso trigger, blue and Naso tang, queen angel, red coris wrasse, tomato clown and a volitans (none past 4 inches, soon to be weeding out a bit),10g water changes every 4 days or so...
Thanks as always guys!.....riot.....
<Gosh, Riot- seems like you've really got a good handle on the maintenance-love the water change interval and skimmer production! Glad you plan on moving some of your fishes out (hopefully to larger quarters) as the need arises. Best for all, in the long run! I think that you should really check out your source water for high phosphate levels...I'll bet that's a big source of the  algae problems that you were having. Also- verify that you're using phosphate-free carbon. Sounds like your system is doing fine- just keep doing what you're doing, and follow through on your plans for future population "dispersion", and continued study and refinement of your system and techniques! Have fun- you're doing great!  Regards,  Scott F.>

Polyfilters, Turboflotors, and Dark Skimmate!
Dear Crew.
<Scott F. here this evening>
A quick question: Can PolyFilter be cleaned and recycled? With Clorox as Bob's filter cleaning advice prescribes? Will it retain it's almost magical ability to catch Cyano and other undesirable stuff?
<Believe me, if there was a reliable way to regenerate PolyFilter, I'd be a happy man! I love them! But, unfortunately, I'd have to say that there is no way to regenerate them>
Just starting my third year in this hobby, I'm no one to give advice but a bunch of folks having trouble with their Turboflotors should be aware that the needle wheel was significantly improved a year or so ago but many units in inventory and retail stocks have been/are being sold with the older wheel. Custom Aquatics has the improved wheels in stock - a couple of bucks. My unit sits in the sump 8 inches deep, is fed by a pump which is controlled by a bypass valve (using a bypass reduces load on the pump and gives finer adjustment). It puts out lots of dark brown garbage. Bob suggested putting a nipple in the cup so it can drain through a hose into a milk jug. I have left it for two weeks or more and (while it gets really nasty dirty and there is about 2 - 3 quarts of goo in the jug) it continues to put out dry foam.
Howard in Wisconsin
<Thanks for sharing the information, Howard. I think that a lot of our readers will find that of great value! Keep learning and sharing! Scott F.>

Diatom Algae and PolyFilters
Dear Craig:
Thank you very much for your Bio-Marine Polyfilter suggestion.
<Alright Mimie! I'm glad it's working for you! It is something in your water!>
Looks like it is working. I placed it in my hang-on-back filter and there seem to be no diatoms on the walls of my tank this morning, which looks like brown dusting. And the PolyFilter is gradually turning to black!
<Excellent! You will notice the diatoms will be worse with light and disappear in the dark, they need light to grow.>
Just wonder if I can rinse and re-use it. Thanks again!
hugs and kisses, Mimie
<Unfortunately they need to be replaced. They work by electro-chemically attracting the positive and negative ions of certain pollutants.  Once they are full, they are done.  A little spendy but they work great for this type of problem. I would still look at testing for phosphates and silicates in your source water, I still suspect that is the source.  Have fun!!!  Craig>

Tank problems since place tented for termites
hi bob (or one of bob's minions). <<Minion JasonC here...>> You are truly the hobby's best friend.
My place was tented for termites 2 weeks ago. I removed all fish and L. rock (leaving sand and water) and shut system down. Oh, and for the record a minion recommended taking tank out. Then I let tank run for
3 days before restocking. Added rock and small guys first, then big fish 3 days later. I've got UV, P. skimmer and carbon all in sump. Bioballs in the overflow.
Some problems since, but I think they're more the result of the place that kept my fish than anything termite related. <<Or both...>> Oh, and like an idiot I didn't fresh dip any fish upon return, something I ALWAYS did after every purchase (after reading TCMA).
The problems were as follows.
RS Sailfin scuffed around snout (net related?)
Sohal scuffed even worse (same area) and had what looked like a small pinkish pimple on right fin (could it have been lymphsomething or other)
Happy to report that those guys now seem healed. <<Oh good.>>
My tank has 2 cleaner shrimp and a cleaner wrasse (all over a year old) and they've just put in for overtime.
May even form union!
Now for the first time ever in my tank a fish, my blue tang, is showing ich, and my Queen angel seems lethargic, less colorful, with some faint blotches. Both spend a lot of time over by shrimp.
Tank temp is around 80, which I'll raise a few degrees. Salinity around 1.023, which I'll start to lower today. How much fresh water in and salt water out to get a 125 gal from .023 to .018 and over how
many days should I take to reach it. Also how do I get it back up, and when. <<By adding extra-salty [1.025-1.030] water slowly, over many days. When is hard to say.>>
I might also throw in a neon goby (I've had 2 in past but they only lasted ~ six months) before taking more drastic measures. I'd sure appreciate your thoughts on all this. Thanks.
KEITH
<<Keith, my thinking is thus - many times problems that present themselves as parasitic are actually induced by stress. Treating the problem as parasitic would only increase the stress, and eventually there is no battle to win - the fish give out. I would really consider the possibility that there are chemical contagions [can we call them that? - nasty organophosphates and the like] which are terribly bad for people let alone fish, remaining in your tank. This is one of the reasons they tent the house. I would pick up a Poly-Filter [name brand] or two and run these in the circulation path of your system. Make sure there's nothing in the water that will foil all other efforts to bring about a cure. Then you can work at whatever parasitic problems remain with the typical therapies. Cheers, J -- >>

Minion Jason C...PolyFilter only?
Hi minion Jason C. <<Hi...>>
Thanks for rapid response. When you suggested poly filter for termite related fish and ich question earlier...does that mean "Only", or would you still raise temp and lower salinity? <<I would work on one thing at a time in the main display. If you have separate quarantine tanks at your disposal, you could potentially try and treat the ich there, but... the name of the game at this point should be stress elimination - increased temperature and lowered salinity will not really help reduce stress so much. As for ich treatment, these actually work better with the fish out of the tank - speeds up the life cycle of the parasite, which could make them more virulent depending on the state of the system. Try the Poly Filter for a couple of days - if you find the thing turning colors quickly, then you know you've got contamination problems - if it stays white or turns brown from organic matter, work on the ich.>>
Cause I just bumped up thermometer 2 degrees and took out 5 gal of salt water and replaced w fresh water. Wondering how green Bubbletip will react to changes. <<Oh... I didn't notice that inhabitant before - I would think "not well" - invertebrates don't do well in low salinity. The shrimp "might" make it through 1.018 but all bets are off for the anemone. Perhaps try instead a regimen of pH-adjusted, freshwater dips for the fish.>>
Of interest--a hermit crab and small snail were accidentally left in tank during tenting AND BOTH SURVIVED! Cool, huh? <<Well - maybe... I mean, if everything else were hating it and these were the only things that survived... not so cool then. In my mind there's just too many reasons to be concerned about the pesticides.>>
Also, the blue tang and Queen angel are both looking better than they did yesterday. So am I probably, I might add. <<I know the feeling.>> They're both constantly over at the shrimp station. <<That would be a good thing, as Martha Stewart would say... or perhaps she isn't saying that so much anymore.>>
Oh yeah, and how do we know you're not just some neighbor kid of Bob's?
<<Uhh... you don't ;-) Because I live in Massachusetts? Or what if I was a Mira Mesa neighborhood punk - what then? Cheers, J -- >>

Amazing Poly Filters and Coppered Live rock!
Anthony, thanks for the help. Is PolyFilter a brand name or product name? 
<it is an amazing product "Poly Filter" from Poly-Bio Marine. I swear that I am not a spokesperson or have ever even received a free sample! Its just a great product. It is a pad that acts as a chemical adsorptive media (replaces or compliments carbon). The cool thing is that it changes colors to indicate the contaminants that it picks up: blue for copper, yellow for ammonia, orange for rust, or simply brown for general organics>
Some of the live rock had been in the tank during a copper treatment but even directly after that I didn't have any problems with snails and such. 
<whoa, bud! That's because the carbonate material did not immediately dissolve and liberate copper. There IS local copper contamination in you water that may not show up on a test kit but will kill invertebrates in the microclimate. All carbonate live rock and sand dissolves slowly in time. 100 lbs of live rock put in a reef tank weighs say 80 lbs 5 years later when the tank is torn down. Carbonate bound copper is slowly being liberated. If you didn't know it before, NO medication should ever be dosed in a display tank. Quarantine tanks and fallow periods take care of sick fish and infected systems>
In replacing live rock can over-nighted rock be added directly to the tank? 
<absolutely not, my friend. Air-shipped live rock needs to be cured. 7-10 days despite shameful claims by many of "cured" live rock. When the rock arrives in the same narrow cardboard boxes that it was shipped out of Fiji in... rest assured, that rock hasn't seen water for over a week>
I am thinking about changing it out anyways for much larger pieces. I have a copper test kit and will give it a go and get back to you. 
<no worries... and don't expect to see much copper free in the water... this is a matter of chemical adsorption... not free ions>
Thanks again.
<best regards, Anthony>

Purigen use
Hi,
I recently started my first salt tank. I have had several people swear by Purigen. Pleading ignorance of what is best, I have placed a bag of it in a HOB Millennium filter (it is a small tank and I am using some addition filtration) in place of the carbon that was there. I was told repeatedly that this would be a good idea. What is your opinion of this practice?
<I have never used the product, but I looked it up on the Seachem webpage. It had a very interesting ad. I would follow your friends recommendations. It sounds just fine.>
Love your site! Thanks for you time and information, Andy Weaver
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Polyfilter
Dear Sir,
We are a small wholesale company and are looking for the manufacturer of
a so called "Polyfilter". This is a white pad and (as we heard) is used
in the
dialyses technique with patients having kidney problems. This filter is
also used for aquarium purposes for cleaning the water.
I have no idea whether this is used elsewhere for aquarium use. Would
you have any idea where this could be purchased?
many thanks,
John van Lune
AquaHolland
Holland
<The manufacturer is Poly-Bio-Marine. Their URL: http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/
Bob Fenner, WetWebMedia.com>
www.aquaholland.com <http://www.aquaholland.com/>

Re: Polyfilter
Hello Bob,
Thanks for your help. This was exactly what I was searching.
Best Regards,
John
<Ah, good. A pleasure. Bob Fenner>

Glass and Grammas
Dear Anthony,
<Salutations to Greece!>
just for your info, the EHFI SUBSTRAT is an EHEIM product, a
specially-designed sintered glass with an enormous surface area of 450 m2 per liter and ideal for the colonization of nitrifying bacteria colonies. I already use it in my biological filter in one of its compartments. In the other compartment I use the so called "stars" , I do not remember the type and brand.
<yes... thank you for the clarification, my friend. I am familiar with the sintered glass products after all. The have advantages and disadvantages over bio-balls. They seem to have more surface area, but subsequently require more oxygen for the biological colony. They also clog easier if the prefiltration is not adequate. Since you are experienced with this product already, you may use it instead of bio-balls if you like it well enough. I prefer the extra gas exchange of the open media like bio-balls and am willing to trade a little of the bio-load for it. But that is largely just a personal preference>
For the history, I have taken out the Loreto and it quite o.k. The only problem is that there was a fight with the damsel and the Loreto put the entire head of the damsel's mouth into its mouth (!) causing a small wound to the damsel (hope to be better soon!).
<initial disputes are sometimes inevitable...the damsel will likely be OK>
The Gramma does not come to the surface to eat, 
<correct.. a cave dweller and not likely to do so>
so I try to let some food come close to the bottom, and then he gets it. The problem is that the other fishes do not the food come down! They are aggressive eaters! I hope to find the solution soon...
<you may need to use a feeding tub>
"Kalinichta", Thanassis
<"Good night", my friend. Anthony>

Do Bio-ring need to be replaced/re-treated after years?
Hi Bob,
It's the first time I write to you, so a little bit nervous.
<No need/cause>
I have my 1000L FOT with sump for more than three years & I've put some
Sera Siporax (bio-ring) in the sump so as to up-keep the bio-load. 
<A good product>
However,
I've found the tank's NO2 level raised to 0.3 mg/l level recently that
really makes me worry. My fish number keeps constant & I regularly do my
partial water change weekly. I just wonder why the NO2 level raised.
<Mmm, I suspect your test kit, not actually nitrite>
Besides, do we need to replace/re-treat bio-ring regularly? 
<No. One time purchase, generally no need to "treat"... can/should be rinsed if you find yourself washing out the rest of the filtration>
How could we
know it's time for us to replace them? Just need your opinion. Many thanks!
King
<Thank you for writing. You might try rinsing (in the sink with freshwater is fine) the Siporax beads to see if this makes a difference. Otherwise I would "test the tester". Check your test kit, water samples against another kit/assay. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Filter media help
<<Greetings Jim, Jason