FAQs on Reef Set-Up Disease
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Small Marine Aquariums
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Small Marine Aquariums
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Small Marine Aquariums
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Slow reef tank crash... lack of HPO4 apparently –
I have some major problems with my tank. I'm not sure if they're related
but I will describe them both.
....sorry for the super long note but I'm quite confused and stumped...
<Take your time...>
First to start the depressive madness, I added a Kole tang to my tank in
early January (with out qt...I know, I know) and it did well for about 3
weeks. It then unfortunately developed what I believe was Ich though I'm
not sure. After about a week or two of fighting it, one day it visibly
looked much worse from the day before and then did not make it through
the night. Sadly over the next week the infection spread and ended up
killing my Anthias and clownfish pair. It spared my yellow striped goby,
barnacles blenny and meleagris leopard. I was quite upset with losing my
clowns as I had them for almost 5 years and I thought they had already
gone through Ich....I guess not. Or maybe this was brook?? Not sure but
this is not my major problem now
<Can't tell from the info. provided>
Continuing my terrible 2014...since the beginning of February (just
after my tank was settling down from my fish crash) my corals have been
slowly dying. It started first with my Candycane coral, it started to
first mostly at night it's heads became shriveled and the flesh was not
expanding, the polyps were not opening at all at night. Slowly but
surely all of my heads (over 50) have been melting away. Then my
Lobophyllia started doing the same thing....each head shriveling and
showing white flesh at its edges, slowly melting away. I've had slow
progressive worsening of every Lps over this time as well. Weirdly my
sps have been doing well, with polyps well extended and seemingly
without issue. My lps are still doing poorly and recently my Ricordea
and mushrooms have been doing bad and releasing from their location,
trying to move out.....now at least half are gone and the others do not
expand at all. My Zoas also look poor... some still open up some, some
don't. Anyways, long story short, my corals look like crap and instead
of slowly growing they are all slowly dying. My sps look ok but
certainly don't appear to be thriving.
<Let's hear/read re the system; what maintenance...>
Now for my parameters. I have a 75g tank with a small 5 gallon refugium
(mostly just for fun though it grows algae quite well). My tank has been
running since January 2013 without issue until the Ich and now this. I
started dosing two part around 6 mo ago and levels have been good and
steady since then. My alkalinity and calcium are dosed via dozers. I use
SeaChem two part solution for this. my alkalinity has been between 8-9,
usually 8.2-8.5, consistently and my calcium has been between 390 and
my magnesium is usually around 11-1300 but has been as low as 1000 and
as high as 1500 on some checks. Phosphorous is 0.00 on every
<A problem... all photo and chemo-synthetic life need "some" soluble
phosphate. See WWM re>
All the parameters are via Hanna checkers, Mg via RedSea. I don't check
my pH as often but it has always been 8.2-8.4 when I do check, even in
the evenings. I do regular weekly 12-15g water changes without fail,
using my own mixed instant ocean salt with ro/di. Salinity 1.025-6.
<All else is fine>
I have a Fluval 406 canister filter that I use for my carbon, unsure how
many grams but a fair amount, which I change every 4-6 weeks. Sometimes
I add a small amt of gfo as well.
<I would skip the "rust"...>
I have been doing this exact same maintenance without change since I
established the tank last year, again it was doing spectacular until a
few months ago.
<Ran out of "food">
I've searched for anything and everything that could be causing this
issue....I bought another bucket of salt, a few weeks ago I removed my
carbon to ensure neither were bad batches...still no changes in coral
<... starved... then likely chain reaction>
I recently (about 8 days ago) noticed a small nail in my refugium (from
hanging a new light) I had dropped it around the same time frame of the
crash (possibly as early as January though) but I can't remember exactly
when I was doing this work. I had thought it just fell behind my tank
and not into it! It is a very small (~1cm) nail that is ZINC coated for
<Mmm, not likely a/the issue here>
I have continued water changes, more frequent --> ~30g in last week and
added a poly filter, should I re-add my carbon?
<I wouldn't... just feed your corals more directly and/or indirectly>
I know it's only been a week since removing the nail but I haven't seen
great improvement in the coral flesh, particularly the fleshy lps ones
are still looking poor.
My questions are:
Do you think that could be the issue?
It is such a small nail but have you seen zinc do this to tanks?
<No and not really>
If not....do you have any other ideas on where to look? I have
absolutely nothing else I can think of that could be causing this.
Parameters extremely closely as above, though I don't have an ORP gauge
I've ruled out bad salt mix, carbon issues.
My rodi has tds 0.
I've also checked stray voltage...none
I've not turned over my sand bed, which is relatively young and would
not cause such slow decline anyway
Could it be the Ich? (or whatever the fish parasitic infection was) that
could be damaging my corals...I've never heard or seen anything like
this but it all happened so fast.
<Not the fish disease; no>
Could there be a bacterial infection? I have not seen much research on
this but it appears to be an entity and again It seemed like my LPS are
mostly effected but the problem HAS spread to my softies and now my
Cyphastrea is dying also. My sps (Acro, Monti, pocilla) seem ok but not
As evidenced by this massive email I am at the end of the rope and I
just don't know what to do or where else to look. I have thousands in my
tank and I pride myself in aquarium knowledge but this has me stumped
and I'm extremely upset. Any help would be greatly appreciated and
please email me with any more questions that may help you decipher my
<Again; a general misunderstanding (engendered by some in the trade)
that reef systems should be "nutrient free"... The organisms are
nutrient concentrated... NEED detectable HPO4, NO3 and more (that aren't
generally tested for and not usually rate-limited... or adjustable
easily; other than Carbon)... It may seem counter-intuitive but you need
to add chemical foods here or macro items of their constituents. The
cascade effect of your coral "melting" can be reversed. Bob Fenner>
Re: Slow reef tank crash 5/18/14
Well I've let the phos creep up some over the month and had no change in
my tank. I think your hypothesis is incorrect.
<Which hypothesis are you referring to? Still can't tell much w/ the
info. provided... what treatment/s did you administer thinking you had
Any other ideas. I'm sapped
<Time to reboot. B>
Re: Slow reef tank crash 5/18/14
Have you ever seen stray voltage do this?
<Mmm; yes. B>
Re: Slow reef tank crash 5/18/14
I'm referring to the slow tank crash...not the fish parasite outbreak I
mentioned at the first if my letter. Towards the end I describe my slow
tank crash and y'all seemed to think it was LACK of phos in my tank
<One poss.. Such cascade events come on slowly; lead to other
so I let it creep up but my tank looks the same....doing poorly. I
wonder if stray voltage could be my problem?
any other ideas to help me find a fix would be great. I've done
everything I can, as mentioned in my first email.
<.... ? Read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Water changes in a troubled reef tank,
Thank you for running such a great website and resource for we novice
types! This is my first time writing all, so please excuse the
I have been searching the FAQs and I am more educated now than ever but
I still have a lingering question on water changes. But first, a little
background on my tank:
100 Gallon reef, 30 gallons in the sump
ASM G3 Protein skimmer
Magnum 350 for Carbon
4x96 power compact lighting
100 lbs of live rock
Soft corals and fish only. I know my lighting won't support stonies
(I would love to though)
2-2.5 inch sandbed
In operation for 3 years, same configuration, bur livestock has changed
1 Hippo Tang, 1 Zebra Tang, 1 Royal Gramma, Mated Pair of Clowns, 3
Fire Shrimp, few red hermits, and a Diamond Goby (the newest
My tank has had a rough run due to many factors. My RO filter is
located outside, and we have had horrendous cold weather. Then the RO
gave up altogether. Then I stopped doing regular water changes. This is
my fault, and now I am cleaning up the mess.
I just replaced and upgraded the RO/DI system and changed its'
location so that outside temp won't be a factor.
What I am worried about is when I was doing regular changes, it was 1
large change a month (20-25 gallons) rather than several small changes.
I have now put myself on a tight regimen of two 5 gallon changes a week
(Sun and Wed) and in the past 2 weeks have changed 50-55 gallons in two
large changes (once for removal of a ChemiClean application, once to do
a full cleaning of the sump). Do I need to worry about taking too much
<No, not really. I would avoid doing more the 50% at a time, but
otherwise you should be fine.>
Can I do 15 gallons a week?
<Sounds like a good amount to me.>
My tank turned into a hair algae paradise and I want to correct that in
the worst way. I don't want to kill the tank in a fit of water
changes though. Am I worried about nothing?
<Mostly, there is some risk with large water changes, or even
relatively small ones with vastly different water parameters, but I
think you should only see improvement from 15-20% water changes a
Thanks in advance!
Re: Water changes in a troubled reef tank
Thank you for your quick reply! I have been learning the aquarium hobby
for three years now and your site has been an integral part of my
reading and learning!
One last quick question before my next crisis: Once this algae recedes
I want to add some new soft corals, and polyps (would love stonies, but
alas....) but it seems that some (before the green tide) of my polyps
died from bad water flow. I have 2 Koralia Magnum 6's (2200 gph)
located across from each other, and a smaller Koralia (400gph) for a
dead zone in the rear of the tank. Is my placement of power heads just
that bad? Is my flow insufficient? I don't think I had any real
chemical warfare going on with a stock issue (large) leather, blue and
purple mushroom polyps, and a large rock of green star polyps. I tried
to make sure nothing got direct flow,
lost a gorgeous hammer coral that way.
<Well I am hardly the coral guy that several of the other crew
members are, I just have a few zoos and mushrooms, but I prefer several
small pumps/powerheads rather than a few large ones. While total volume
movement is important so it how it is moving. Perhaps splitting the
flow of the Magnums with some plumbing work would help, rather than
just having them blasting all in the same direction. Also, you would be
much corals can effect each other, my mushrooms can really effect my
zoos if I am not careful.>
Established Tank Circling The Drain/Water Quality, reef
Hey WWM Crew!
I have written you guys in the past and you have always had great
information. This email is not really a specific question as much as a
search for a possible correlation that I'm missing. My established
125 reef has been in a downward spiral for about a month and I can not
stop it. I'm afraid I am looking at a total loss. It started with
sudden outbreak of a type of green hair algae that is extremely fine
and thick, I'm afraid is could be Bryopsis, since nothing will eat
this stuff. Next I started noticing a small purple patch on my three
year old toadstool leather. After
about a week the tissue around it began to rot and the spot began to
spread. I removed the leather and cut off the infected portion of the
crown. Next a healthy established yellow tang stopped eating and died.
I checked all my water parameters (NO3<10, pH 8.2, Sg 1.023, Calcium
380) I did find two problems with the water, first the KH was only 5
and the phosphates were 2.5. I have been searching your site and others
trying to discover the effect of low KH and still must admit I
don't fully understand its roll <role>. As for the high
phosphates, I have not changed anything in the tank that could explain
the sudden introduction of phosphates,
<Likely not sudden, but now levels are measurable.>
I use RODI water, no new filter media, none of the usual suspects.
Could this all be related to low KH?
<Unbuffered RO/DI water can quickly deplete buffers present in the
salt mix, and low dKH levels are apt to cause pH swings.
Phosphates/orthophosphates are absorbed by algae quickly and your
ability to read a phosphate level of 2.5 indicates an excessive input
from a source containing phosphates.
Foods are a good place to start as most prepared foods do contain
phosphate. Frozen foods should be rinsed in a net to remove excess
packing water and inedible waste. More information as to phosphate
and control can be found here.
Only other significant changes to the tank was a new set of VHO bulbs
about a month ago and removed an old SeaClone and replaced it with a
new Octopus skimmer (very pleased with this product BTW).
<Is a good product and will help improve your water quality.>
Please let me know any thoughts you have on the situation.
<Not knowing much about your system as to size, stocking level,
filtration, etc, which you should have included in your query, I
believe your major problem is poor water quality. Water parameters
being in check are not always indicative of good water quality.
Overstocking/feeding and lack of regular water changes, and poor
filtration methods are a just a few examples that play an important
role in maintaining good water quality. Do read/apply
information presented in the following links.
As to understanding the role of pH/dKH, do read here.
James (Salty Dog)>
Compatibility... Bivalves and Crabs... feast
I had a weird issue, I had a maxima clam some smaller green clams a
flame scallop and they all got eaten after in introduced some blue and
red dwarf and zebra crabs, along with some Nassarius and margarita
snails . could
any of these have eaten all my clams. who and why? and does this mean I
cant ever add clams because I wont be able to find the culprits and
round them all up?
<Very little info for me to base an informative reply on. I would
like to know your tank size, water parameters, lighting make-up, and
what types of fish and other invertebrates, if any, are in the
James (Salty Dog)>
Sony M. Onatte
Re Compatibility, Take 2, now reef... env. issues --
I have a 30 gal long with roughly 45 - 50 lbs of live rock. water
levels all normal.. 0 nitrate nitrite and ammonia. salinity 19-22.
<1.019-1.022? This should be much closer to 1.026...>
If everything is 0 do I still have to do water changes cuz I'm
topping off water 3x a week cuz it evaporates so fast.
<Short answer: yes. Long answer -- the fresh water you are adding
back 3x a week is not equivalent to a water change -- this is only
replacing the evaporated system water. No export of nutrients has
occurred. Water changes achieve 2 goals: nutrient export from the tank,
and replenishment of ionic balance within the water. These two things
are indispensable, and cannot be substituted by any filter, additive,
My lighting system is a Current USA power compact with Dual Daylight
Lamp (6700K & 10,000K), 1 Dual Actinic Lamp (420nm/460nm) and 3
<Not nearly enough intensity for clams -- Power Compacts simply
don't have the depth of punch that T5 or Metal Halide
<I> have an <A>qua <C> <R>emora
skimmer<,> <I> have a black clown<,> a
reg<ular> clown<,> a domino, 1 chromis, 2 Fiji blue and
yellow devil. 3 camel shrimp, 2 skunk shrimp, assorted margarita,
turbo, and Nassarius snails. 3 emerald crabs, 25 assorted blue and red
dwarf crabs. 5 diff types of Zoa's.
<Sounds nice -- a bit overstocked... but please, in the future do
run your email through a spell check, practice proper punctuation and
capitalize proper nouns... All is posted for posterity here, and these
take time out of our day.>
2 bleached trumpet corals from 3 months ago because one of my pumps
died while I wasn't home for a month. ( will their color ever come
back or is there anything <I> can do about it)
<If they have not died yet, there is hope.>
an recently eaten maxima<,> assorted green clams<,> 2 flame
scallops. <Flame scallops do not fare well in home aquaria -- and
'assorted green clams' gives us nothing to go on here..>
and PS: my Zoa's aren't growing as fast as they once were
almost to a stop.
<Your salinity is far too low, your ionic balance is off -- fix
this, your growth will increase.>
any magic food? I rarely target feed. hopefully this is good enough
<Should not need much/any direct feeding in an adequately equipped
configuration, but would certainly benefit from a feeding of
Cyclop-Eeze or other similar small foods.>
Sony M. Onatte
Re: Compatibility... Now ScottV rallies!
I just feel like the problem hasn't been addressed.
<It has by Justin below, water quality, stability and lighting are
the culprits here, not the crabs.>
My maxima clam has been in my tank for over a year, the green
iridescent small clams were newer but they were fine too until I added
a clean up crew.
All the dwarf crabs I was talking about. Then the clams just started to
clear out. No flesh left in the shell. I wanted to know if you have
heard of this before?
<Yes, the crabs are scavengers, they will feed on dead or dying
And will I ever be able to have clams because of this?
<Sure, by addressing the issues listed below! <<Above now!
RMF>> Scott V.>
Tank questions, reef dis....
Hope all is well with everyone! I wish all were well with my tank.
About a month ago, I purchased a Scott's Fairy wrasse for my tank.
I didn't QT, nor did I dip this specimen, as I had lost 2 fairy
wrasses before that I attributed to a very stressful FW dip procedure.
He went in with a pair of black false Percs, a flame angel, a canary
wrasse, a solar wrasse, a neon goby, a bicolor blenny, black cap
Basslet, and Kole tang. After a week, I noticed he had the telltale
crypto spots on him. I suspect it was in my system all along, as most
of my fish I had for years in a 55 before I upgraded, and the flame
would get a spot or two at times but always fought it off. I started
feeding several times a day and soaking it in garlic, hoping it would
help. He started looking OK, but then my blenny died (the Kole never
let him come out to eat) which I assume affected my water quality, even
though I did a couple of water changes afterward. The Scott's got
spots again, and then so did the Kole (karma I guess). I finally
decided I should take them all out and fallow the tank, as I do wish to
add a few more fish to my tank down the line. I was able to catch them
all, with the exception of the canary wrasse. He is sneaky and buries
himself at any sign of danger.
<Best technique here is to scoop up the fish, gravel in the area
with a net of coarse netting, shake out the gravel...>
When I upgraded, he was buried for 3 days before I finally decided to
sift handfuls of sand through a colander until he appeared. He has
never shown any signs of disease, rather he is fat, active and
beautiful. I think you know where I'm going with this.....will it
help the infestation of crypt any if he stays in the tank?
I do have various coral, and I'm afraid what sifting through that 5
inch sandbed will do to my water quality. Not to mention, the big pain
that will be. I have learned.....always QT. If I can't leave him in
there, any ideas, tips, tricks on how to catch him?
<The large coarse net...>
I've been leaving the net in there so he gets used to it, and
putting food in a plastic water bottle with the top cut off, hoping he
swims in there to eat, but no luck so far. As for the fish in the
hospital tank, they are in a 40 long. The Kole has since died. I've
decided to go the hyposalinity route, as I was nervous about copper and
my flame angel's reaction to it.
<See here re Quinine uses:
So far I've replaced about a fifth of the salt water with fresh
over 2 days. I don't want to dilute too much, in case I do catch
the wrasse. I don't have a separate vessel for him and don't
want him to go into too much osmotic shock.
<You show wisdom here>
Also, my refractometer is set to arrive on Tuesday, so I have a couple
of days to catch him if it comes down to that. I plan on leaving the
fish in the hospital tank for about 8 weeks. If the canary wrasse stays
in my display, will this work?
I know the most probable answer is NO, but I guess I'm hoping for a
small miracle. I have been feeding the fish 3-4 times a day, yet the
Scott's doesn't appear to gain any weight. I'm thinking he
may have internal parasites.
I have a bottle of Prazipro coming with the refractometer. If I dose
the hospital tank will it be OK for the rest of the fish?
<With this product, likely so>
I'm not very familiar with the product, but since he isn't
gaining weight and I do see him eating....I don't know what else it
could be. One last unrelated question, a lot of my Zoanthid colonies
would disappear overnight, sometimes whole frag plugs. I suspected a
crab of some sort, but never caught anything but hermits and
bristleworms with the food in the bottle trick. The night I took out
all the rocks to move the fish, I finally saw the likely culprit. It
scurried off before I could whip out the net....but it is huge! The
crab is about 4 inches across, strong enough to cart off a frag plug, I
think. I set out the food in the bottle again, but I think it's on
to me, as it hasn't made another appearance. I really want it out
as I love Zoas and would like to start adding new frags.
Any other tricks I can try here?
<None really... but with the fishes out, their food not going in...
this decapod ought to be easier to tempt>
Oh...I lied about that being the last question!! I wanted to run the
remainder of my stocking list by you for approval/modifications.
Assuming all the fish survive the hospital tank, there are 8 total
currently. My wish list is as follows (in order of addition): a pair of
hi-fin gobies, a Christmas wrasse (H. ornatissimus), 3 Lyretail anthias
(1 male, 2 females), a powder brown tang (A. japonicus), and a red sea
Sailfin tang. I know the last might be pushing it. I really don't
"need" it in the tank and prefer the powder brown, if it is
suggested it'll be too much. The tank is 180 gallons with 55 gallon
sump/refugium, an Aqua C urchin rated for 220 gallons, a mag 9.5 return
into a spray bar, and 3 Koralia 4's in the main tank for movement.
I have lots of LPS and this amount of flow seems to be OK for them. No
plans to go SPS. This has been set up for a year, previous 55 was set
up for 6 years before all livestock was transferred.
Thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This site is a
valuable resource and I read it daily.
<I do think you'll be fine with the stocking list you state...
and am hopeful your fishes will soon be better. Do read re the use of
quinine compounds. Bob Fenner>
Please advise... Induced reef prob.s... Cnid. incomp.
mostly, coupled with crowding, poor suppl. use/mixing...
8/30/08 Hello wet web crew! I have had a terrible week and a
half with my reef aquarium. I am sure that some of the problems I have
are self-inflicted (if not all), but I need to figure out what to do to
get back on track. I will provide you with a little background of the
system and the problems I have been having. 72-gallon bow front 15
gallons of water in my sump (total of 87 gallons) Coralife super
skimmer (in sump as well as heater) Over 100 lbs of live rock 2 inches
of live sand 3 power heads (2 high, 1 low in back behind live rock)
Also circulating with sump return (about 600 gallons per hour) Coralife
Aqualite Pro ( 2-250watt metal halide bulbs and florescent bulbs) on a
timer (12 hours with all lights, florescent on for 14 hours) Glass
lids, about 1.5 inches from water level, lights are about 6 to 8 inches
above that. <I'd raise the MHs up to 12" above...> Water
changes 15 gallons every week with premixed stored water as well as top
ups with treated water (cloram-x) <I'd pre-mix and not use a
water-treatment product...> Fish... Mimic Tang, Tomini Tang, Scopas
Tang, Flame Angel, Coral Beauty Angel (recently deceased), 2 black
Clown fish, 2 Fire shrimp, 3 snails, 3 red starfish (with blue tips),
Sand dwelling starfish, Handful of hermit crabs Corals... Leather
finger, Leather toadstool, 3 polyp clusters (one of them is quite a bit
larger polyps), Torch coral, Hammer coral, Star polyp, 2 fuzzy green
mushroom clusters, purple mushroom cluster, red mushroom cluster, green
mushroom cluster, Plate coral, 3 xenia clusters, Flower pot (which my
clown adores), blue cam (Tridacna i think). <These corals are the
likely source of poisoning... you have many "warring" types
in too small a volume... see the citation below> Water... Spec.
gravity= 1.025 Ph= 8.4 Alk= 2 Ammonia= 0 Nitrate= 0 Nitrite= 0.0-0.05
Calcium= 380-400 Temp 79-80.5 degrees F Magnesium=900-1000 <Mg needs
to be a bit higher... about 3X Ca conc.> I supplement the water with
Weiss Coral Boost daily, <I'd skip this... scam> Kent Marine
Phytoplex 3 times per week, Weiss Bacter Boost after water changes Kent
Marine liquid calcium every other day (as I am trying to increase
calcium to 400+). <Mmm, look into the SeaChem line...> I am
feeding daily 2 or 3 cubes of frozen foods (brine, krill, mysis etc) in
the evenings as well as seaweed clips changed regularly in the morning
and evening. About 8 or 9 days ago I was frustrated with the appearance
of my display, so I decided to pull the stock out and rearrange my
tank. <?> (A decision made in haste unfortunately). I thought it
had gone well. The coralline algae is taking off nicely. Everything
seemed o.k. but since then, some of my soft corals have been looking
kind of sad. <Danger Will Robinson!> My leather finger is closed
up and seems to have algae growing on it. I placed it in a spot with
more water flow to try and help this. My colt is looking better now,
but not nearly as lush as it was before all this, my xenias have
shriveled up terribly and still look terrible, but even worse, my coral
beauty angel died. I had purchased him with my flame angel and
introduced them together a week previously. They were thick as thieves
<Good metaphor> until the day after i rearranged the tank, and by
then, I was too late. I have been testing my water 2 times per day
since to monitor in case of any other underlying problem, and other
than the slight struggle with Alk and calcium that I had discovered and
corrected, everything seems to be returning to normal. I think I caused
that issue as well. I had recently tried alternating the Kent Marine
calcium supplement with Seachem Reef Complete for raising calcium and
magnesium, and once tried Aquavitro "Ions" to achieve this.
<Mmmmm> After the negative reaction I seemed to get from my
Xenia, I tested my water and noticed my alkalinity and ph were down
(1.6 Alk and 8.2 ph). I stopped adding calcium etc and did a water
change (15 gallons). After hours of reading, I think I am starting to
understand the relationship between calcium and alkalinity...
particularly the marbles in the jar example that I read in one of the
articles on this site. Parameters went back to normal after that. This
was about a week ago. I thought it was getting back to normal until
tonight. It seems that my Tomini Tang (and possibly my Mimic Tang) have
ich. I just yesterday purchased the book "The Conscientious Marine
Aquarist" and I am horrified at some of the mistakes I have made
this week. I am pretty sure I have caused this. <I am certain> So
here come the questions. 1. Do I need to quarantine all the fish? I am
planning on getting a hospital tank tomorrow. <Mmm... If you had
another set-up that was "ready to go", I would move the
fishes... have time go by till the Cnidarians settle back down> 2.
What size do I get for the number of fish I should quarantine? What are
the requirements for such a tank? (filtration etc) <Posted... see
WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm the first tray> 3. While
I am quarantining fish, I would like to make a couple changes to the
reef. I figure I am going to have to take it apart to catch the fish
anyway. <I'd try to avoid doing this... There are a few very
likely "things" that went wrong, are going on here... One, as
mentioned twice, is an incompatibility amongst the stinging-celled life
in your system... Which was exacerbated with the use of some of the
"additives" you were using, your moving this life about...
Moving the non-fish life again, will only create more trouble> I am
still not satisfied with the way it's all sitting. After reading
Mr. Fenner's book, there are so many things I want to do different.
Is this a problem? <Mmm, not if you take your time, have that other
system to house the fish life (and maybe some of the
"corals") as mentioned> Is there a specific way to do
this? <A few... but basically moving the fishes elsewhere will save
their lives... the Cnidarians? They need to "get used" to
each other, with you doing your best to reduce the effects of their
negative interactions...> In particular, I want to change the way I
have my live rock set up in a major way. I am confident I can do it in
a few hours. What precautions do I need to take? <Move the fishes
first... spiff up your skimmer, if you can... add an ozonizer... if
not, as much carbon, Polyfilter as you can afford...> 4. If I am to
do this, should I try and leave the corals in the display and work
around them, or remove them to another tank? (Not the hospital tank of
course. perhaps the sump?) <I would try to leave all the
"corals" as they are... for now...> Sorry for the long
email, i just really want this tank to be special and do well. I am
very embarrassed. Please help me. Thanks, Sincerely, Jason <No
reason/need to be embarrassed... Do read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked files above,
taking down notes... until you understand the gist of what is and has
gone on here... Do move the fish life... as soon as practical. Bob
I have a problem with my Reef Aquarium..... induced
7/15/08 Hi ya guys. I do hope you can help me here.. <Me too>
Trigon 350 Nitrite 0 Ammonia 0 Salinity 1.022 /23 <A bit low>
Nitrate 40 + ( Have R0 system set up now with minerals so this is
coming down ) <Good> PH 8.1 (Trying to raise this a little with
buffer) <Mmmm... see WWM re> Tunze Comline Skimmer Ultra Violet
Steriliser Eheim Pro 2 <And on WWM re canister filters, on marine
systems> Tunze Wavemaker I have a reef aquarium set up and have
recently lost my Volitans lion fish the other day as it has been
unhappy for around 6 months now. It seemed to go off its food and just
sulk for over 6 months. I have tried feeding different foods but to no
avail. <Mmm... a lack of oxygen, too much nitrate...> My fox face
seems a little black (annoyed?) but other than that my Box Fish ,
Lipstick Tank , <... these need more room than this> Maroon
Clowns ,Yellow Tang , Blue Damsel and Grouper as well as my Green
Brittle starfish seem ok. My soft corals seems a little weak and
shrinking and my Anemone is shrinking also. <... trouble... the
anemone... read on WWM re this as well> Also I have noticed that I
have millions of little stringy worm like things coming out of the
substrate about 1cm long and also over my live rock they seem to be
feeding on any lose food at the bottom .? Would you know what this is ?
<All indicative... of nutrient accumulation, inadequate filtration,
circulation, aeration> About 6 months ago just when things started
going down hill with the Lionfish all the Aiptasia that I was having
problems with seemed to of shrunk and died. <Ohhh> I have been
asking for help from both my LFS and on the net but no -one seems to be
able to help me. Please can you give me some advice on what to do
please.. Thank you very much. Phil. <Where should we start? Can/will
you use the search tool, indices on WWM to read the topics above? This
would be best... if you have time, interest. You have nice gear, as
listed, but this system/set-up is inadequate for the life you list...
Do you want to discuss any aspect of this? Bob Fenner>
ICH Problem In 24G Nano Cube I have a 24G nano cube, 30 lbs
live rock, 25 lbs live sand, 1 Lysmata shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1
serpent star, snails, hermit crabs, 1 clownfish, 1 coral beauty, 1 blue
tang, and 1 mandarin green goby, no corals as of yet. <... the
Centropyge Angel, Tang... even (especially!) Mandarin can't live in
this size volume> All fish are relatively small 1 to 3 inches at the
most. Three weeks ago, I immediately took out a domino damsel (used to
cycle tank) after noticing white spots which I assumed to be ich.
<Too late... once noticed, already infesting your system> Could
the domino have spread the disease to other fish or to the tank since I
took him out as soon as I noticed spots? <Yes> Could inverts such
as shrimp, serpent stars, snails, and crabs carry the disease? <Mmm,
not carry per se... but can be vectors, physical carriers... as well as
the water that they might be transported in...> Could they have
become infected? I thought I was on the clear, but on Sunday 2 weeks
after I took the domino out, I introduced the coral beauty, and blue
tang together to the main tank. All was well, and on Wednesday after
coming home from work, I noticed the coral beauty, and blue tang were
covered with ich. What happened? Did they catch the ich from my system
as the crypt reached the theronts stage? <Bingo!> or did
they carry the ich already and showed signs soon after I introduced
them in the tank? <Doubtful... but yes, a remoter possibility>
Why don't the clownfish, and goby show any signs? <Mmm,
they're "stronger"... the goby is "slimier"...
they will contract the ich in time, with debilitation, further cycles
of the parasite> I am so confused. I don't see signs of ich on
the clownfish, therefore we can assume that the new fish carried the
ich in, but then again, the clownfish doesn't come anywhere near
the sandbed. What do you think? <That our economy is in trouble,
that there's too much government...> I've read the section
on crypt, but I am so confused regarding certain issues. <Mmm, take
all a "bit at a time"... your situation is not uncommon
(unfortunately) and you obviously (from reading here) have a good
mind... capacity to understand what has gone on, can go on... what your
choices are. Of course, would be great to go back in time, dip/bath,
quarantine new livestock...> Here is my main question, does ich need
to be transmitted to a fish, or can an "ICH FREE" fish
develop ich on its own??? <Great question... Marine ich,
"Cryptocaryoniasis" must need be transmitted to an otherwise
non-infested system... put another way, there are specific
"ich-free" systems, fishes... And for thoroughness sake,
freshwater ich (Ichthyophthiriasis) is actually capable of "lying
dormant" and surfacing given enough balance in its favor for
expression> I plan to place all the fish in a QT tank and treat
them, should I move the serpent starfish also to the QT tank, or any
other inverts as well? Do you have any further advise? Much
appreciated..... <To keep reading... no to moving your
invertebrates... Bob Fenner>
Re: ICH Problem In 24G Nano Cube Hey Bob, the economy will
always bounce back, but I don't know about our government, you do
have a point. <Heeee! Just ask the Soviets, or the Romans for that
matter... what happens when the gov't spends more than 20-25% of
the GDP... on to fish> Thanks for all answers. Tonight, I was able
to catch the blue tang, and I gave it a freshwater dip for approx. 10
min, but seems that the white spots are still there. Were the spots
suppose to disappear, if so should I try again? <Mmm, the spots are
actually the fishes' reactions to the ich parasite... sometimes go,
sometimes no> I used a Meth. blue solution with treated tap water,
but I have no idea how much the concentration was. <Not important...
read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/methblueart.htm
> I dropped 1 drop to make the water blue. I did use treated tap
water with the same temp. and pH as my main tank water as the
freshwater dip. I'm trying to set up a QT tank, but until then I
thought I'd give the tang a dip to rid it of the ich that it has so
badly. <Mmm> I don't think he's going to make it, and I
know you said he's probably not right for this size tank. But
I'm stubborn to make this work....good news is that all fish are
eating well. We'll see about tomorrow. <Bob
Small Marine Aquariums
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Small Marine Aquariums
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Small Marine Aquariums
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner