Is My Water Really RO Water? 11/12/06
Hello WWM Crew
<Greetings>  
I was wondering if you could help me out.  I receive “RO” water once a month from someone who does water change on tanks.  He delivers the water in 5 gallon buckets.  I was just wondering if there is any way that I can be sure that the water in the buckets is definitely RO water and not tap water with Aqua Plus or some other solution in it?  Perhaps I’m paranoid, but I just want to be sure that I’m not being taken advantage of as I am not able to make my own RO water, and I do pay a fee for the buckets I receive.
Thank you for your assistance in this matter!
Shoshana
<If you want to make sure, you can get a TDS meter and test your tap water and then test your RO water.  Depending on the age of the RO filters and whether it is RODI or not, you water should be at least 40 PPM or less, preferably 0 PPM.  Cheers! – Dr. J>

Which RO Unit? - 09/30/06
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I was wondering if any has used any of these products, Coralife Pure-Flo II RO unit or Seachem pinnacle 35 gpd RO units?
<<Afraid not>>
The reason I need a RO unit is because my tap water is very hard (300)with a very high pH (8.4), and I want to keep fish that require a low pH and soft water.
<<I see>>
Are either of these systems any good or would you recommend a different brand.
<<Either will work fine.  All these units operate on the same principles...you could even obtain a (cheaper) unit from someplace like Lowe's or Home Depot>>
Thanks, this is the best website for fish info and advice I've ever been on.
--Sbatiste
<<We're pleased you find it useful.  EricR>>

RO System Output...Possibly Damaged or Faulty Membranes - 09/27/06
I am having a problem with my RO system.
<<Oh?>>
I have a Kent 200gpd system with an add-on DI.
<<Big system>>
I store all in a 200G plastic tank.  After replacing all the cartridges (including membranes) it will run great with the TDS reading 0.
<<Good...>>
But within about a month I notice that the RO unit is producing water much faster than usual (it normally produce about 125-150gpd) and the TDS is up to about 140 which is about the same as tap water.
<<Mmm...not so good...>>
I change the sediment and carbon prefilter about every 7-10 days, because I read you should change them every two to three thousand gallons.
<<And you produce that much filtered water in a week?...wow>>
It seems as if the membranes are failing.
<<Indeed...am in agreement>>
Any help would be appreciated.
<<A couple things come to mind...Firstly, I would try a different source for obtaining membranes.  Next, make sure you are getting 'TFC' membranes as opposed to 'CTA' membranes.  The CTA membranes break down very quickly if exposed to chlorine, and if your carbon prefilter is not adequate at removing this, well...  Also, rather than using the sediment prefilter, consider using "micron rated" solid carbon blocks.  Using a 5-micron block as your first-stage and a 1-micron block as your second-stage will still filter out particulates while providing some additional chemical prefiltering of the water before it reaches the membrane.  Most carbon block combinations such as this will usually give you in excess of 5,000 gallons usage, and I seem to recall some with 30,000 gallon usage ratings (these blocks can also be easily rinsed of loose sediment on a weekly/monthly basis)>>
Thanks, Daniel
<<Hope this proves helpful.  Regards, EricR>>

Re-2: A Tale of Two Dead Naso Tangs   9/19/06
Hello Eric,
<<Hi Patrick>>
I searched your site and was unable to find articles on RO top off pro/cons but going through some other users’ questions have a basic understanding of the concern of not using raw RO.
<<Ah good...and maybe time for me to stop procrastinating and "put pen to paper" re.  And here are some articles worthy of your perusal:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm ...
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm ... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i4/RO_systems/reverse_osmosis.htm ... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/watchgantart.htm ... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/marineMaint.htm>>
I am without question going to change my procedures on the water change water, actually I understand now why I have to keep adding alk buffer as much as I do.
<<Indeed!  Considering the volume of the tank, your water change routine, and the fact you have but a few corals at present, regular supplementation of earth elements should not be required>>
Some new challenges are with the top-off water.
<<...?>>
I have serious space issues and need to find more information on what other people are doing to pre-treat their RO top-off water.
<<Should be mentioned in one or two of the articles I've provided.  But is a simple matter of utilizing a suitable storage container (plastic trash cans are common) to hold the RO water, adding aeration/water movement for 24 hrs to blow-off CO2, then adding buffer to raise pH and alkalinity.  I like to use a 2 to 1 mixture of baking soda and Seachem's Reef Buffer...you can use baking soda alone but you won't get much of a pH rise without "baking it" first (spread on a baking sheet and bake at 300 degrees for 1 hour) to drive out the CO2 used in its manufacture>> <Interesting. Making some of this sodium carbonate... RMF>
The RO unit has an ASOV (a fast flush as well, forgot to mention previously) so putting a float switch in the sump was not a problem.
<<Understood...and not an uncommon though ill-advised practice>>
What are some standard solutions, mechanisms used?
<<Whatever your imagination/budget allows.  My configuration consists of a 55g polyethylene barrel sited in my garage which is fed automatically by my 5-stage 100gpd RO unit.  I control water flow to the RO unit through use of an "air-pressure" water-level switch that turns power on-off to a solenoid valve I installed between the water line and the filter unit.  The 55g drum is plumbed through the attic to a 20g reservoir positioned above my display tank.  A push-button "momentary" switch allows me to easily and conveniently fill the reservoir from the drum in the garage.  Top-off to the sump is controlled by a Tunze Osmolator which feeds water from the reservoir to the sump through a DIY Nilsen reactor (use of the reactor precludes the need to buffer the water beforehand).  This was "my" solution to the "top-off" issue...think about your needs/what you want to do and come up with an idea/a plan and I'll be happy to discuss it with you>>
Seems to me I would need a container of some sort with a pump and float switch and a level controller in the sump?
<<See...you're half way there <grin> >>
Any help in the area would be appreciated.  Just an FYI Big Al's sells Tropic Marin fairly cheap.  A 200gal mix shipped is around 60 bucks.
<<Not bad...but still decidedly more than Instant Ocean...which I also consider to be an excellent and consistent salt mix...and probably the best value for the dollar re>>
I don't know if I feel any better having a better understanding on how the tangs died, but I walk away knowing more about a number of things and plan to make a number of changes based on your advice.
Thanks
<<Is all we can do my friend.  And the more we learn...the better we come to understand...the greater the benefit to the hobby will be.  Regards, EricR>>

RO Water  - 09/14/06
Hi Crew,
<Mr. C>
I have a couple questions about RO water. For a simple fish and  invertebrate system, with a couple of hardy corals, is RO water really  necessary?
<Mmm, nope... depends on what your source water is, what otherwise you want to do...>
I feel it might help out a bit. For again, a simple fish and  invertebrate system, would 3 stage RO be fine, or do you NEED the 4th stage,  deionization?
<No>
Would my system survive if the 4th stage is not provided, and well  water is used?
<Very likely so>
I talked to a fellow hobbyist and he said he believes using well  water with a RO system would be better than city water because it doesn't  contain all of the chloramines and such. Is this true?
<Unless one is adding chloramine...>
Doesn't well water have  more minerals though?
<Not all... too many vague generalities here... There are tapwater's that are quite mineral laden, and relatively soft wells>
Also, what brand of RO filters would you suggest for  someone who has a
fairly small (36 gallons) system?
Thanks a ton!
<A cheapy Home Depot or equivalent unit. Bob Fenner>

RO Units...Which One?, What Configuration? - 09/06/06
Hi Crew,
<<Hello!>>
Thanks for taking my e-mail today.
<<Welcome>>
I have finally decided to buy my own RO Unit to supply my 75 gallon reef tank.
<<Cool!>>
I was looking at a few different units and was wondering if you could help me clarify a few things.
<<Ok>>
First off, I live in Saint Paul, MN and my water comes from the Mississippi.
<<Via a water treatment facility I hope>>
Second, I live in a 100 year old house and I assume some of the plumbing is fairly old.
<<Mmm, a fair assumption...>
I was looking at the Kent Marine Hi-S and Maxxima Units as well as the Pinnacle + Units.
<<You might also want to peruse what is available at your local home center (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.).  All RO units operate on the same principle, and the membranes used by all are made by just a few manufacturers...you might find you can save some considerable cash by buying/configuring your own unit from other than a retail "fish" outlet>>
My first question is if you know the difference between the Hi-S membranes and the TFC membranes (i.e. is the Hi-S as good at removing things other than silicates?).
<<Not aware first-hand, but would assume as much.  A search of the NET should find rejection-rate tables re that will allow you to make comparisons, but unless you "know" you have high silicates/have a silicate problem you probably don't need to spend the money for the Hi-S membrane>>
Secondly, with my water source, would you recommend getting the Pinnacle because it has two carbon pre-filters?
<<I prefer "two" carbon cartridges on my system for the extra "capacity" provided.  My recommendation here is to utilize the "solid block" carbon filters with "micron ratings" for particulate removal (5-micron for the first stage...1-micron for the second).  Periodically removing and rinsing under the tap will extend their utility>>
Third, if I get the Pinnacle would you recommend hooking up a DI filter inline?
<<Indeed...as the last stage of the filter.  Another money saver here is to purchase a "refillable" cartridge and buy "bulk" resin from someplace like Resin Depot (ResinDepot.com).  Initial cost more, but you'll save about 75% or more (depending on how much you pay for the "disposable" resin cartridges) over the long term>>
Also, I was planning on hooking up the RO Unit under my kitchen sink.  Can I run the unit from my cold water source or do I need it to be temperature controlled?
<<The units operate more efficiently when the water temperature is above 70F (my unit's output doubles during the hot summer months due to an increase in source water temperatures), but trying to regulate this is likely more trouble than it's worth, and you certainly don't want to hook the unit up to your hot water line...just plumb to your cold water source>>
Do you have any tips on hooking it up under my sink?  
<<Nothing special, merely follow the manufacturers instructions.  A keyword search on the NET also yields much info re>>   
Thanks very much for the help,
Tim
<<Is my pleasure to assist.  Regards, EricR>>

Retail RO/DI   9/1/06
Hi Bob:
<Greg>
I have been doing a lot of research on large capacity RO/DI systems (I guess "large" is relative though!!).  Do you have any suggestions/preferences as far as brands, expense to operate, etc. of the various 500-1000 gpd systems designed for retail applications?
<Mmm, would have to take a look see with such descriptive terms on the Net really...>
I've seen quite a few but lack the experience to know what the real differences are.  
Thank you, Greg.
<Some units have "more" filtering modules as pre-filters, contactors... and some profess more material removal... but capacity, cost to obtain and operate (the availability of new membranes and cartridges importantly) are the most important considerations by far. As with most all "gear" questions, I'd "shop" this around on the various specialty BBs (ReefFrontiers, reefs.org...) and ask other aquarists what they've (recently) purchased, used. Bob Fenner>

What would you do?  An experienced point of view needed please. When in doubt, your own R.O.   8/23/06
Hello crew,
Need help here as soon I will be using my current 84 gallon tank as a quarantine and graduating to a 480 litre (English measurements) tank as my
main one. I have been using R.O water on my smaller tank and of course everything has much improved especially my phosphate and nitrate and no
doubt my fishes health too. I would like to use the R.O water on my soon to be new tank but financially it would appear that it may be more costly than I first realize.
<Mmmm>
I understand that with larger systems the nitrates etc tend to rise slower therefore sometimes requiring less frequent water changes,
<Mmm, depends on what's in them... how much... what fed... what filter gear employed... mostly>
perhaps once per two weeks or even once only per month in some cases?
<Yes>
I may end up buying an R.O unit,
<I definitely would here>
my LFS are hoping to strike a deal with someone where the units will drop from about 100 - 150 to about 50 - 90 £.
<Look to the large hardware, "home" stores here... there is nothing "exceptional" re the "fish store" units and the ones meant for home/potable use>
This, though, will be a few months away. Attached to the mains drinking water I have a very high quality ceramic filter. Perhaps as it was quite
satisfactory for my small tank it will therefore be even a little more acceptable for my larger tank when it arrives?
<... Worth having the resultant water quality checked... I would get/use my own R.O. unit if there were any prominent issues with your/my source water... for pet-fish and my cooking and drinking needs. Bob Fenner>
Kind regards team.
Steve.

RO/DI...Misapplication/Buffering/pH - 08/09/06
Dear Crew:
<<Lloyd>>
Hi.  I just set up my first marine tank over the last two weeks and have some issues.
<<I see>>
The tank is a 180, and will be a FOWLR if I can ever get to that point.
<<Let's see what I can do to help you get there>>
I filled it with tap water, which is relatively clean, but hard.  Alkalinity was at 300 KH and pH at 8.4.  I treated it with Amquel Plus, added Oceanic salt, (SG is .019), and put in 120 pounds of CaribSea Geo Marine crushed coral with aragonite.
<<I know this is a FOWLR system, but I really think you should increase the salinity to natural seawater levels (1.025/.026).  If parasitic infection is a concern then arm yourself with a quarantine system and read up on/perform freshwater dips when transferring your fish, but don't subject them to a continuous hyposalinity environment in the display.  Think about it, another term for hyposalinity is OST or Osmotic "Shock" Therapy...it has its uses for some short-term treatments, but not as a permanent environmental element.  Your fish will exhibit better behaviors, colors, and "long-term" health in my opinion if kept at a salt concentration closer to/matching that from which they came>>
I washed the gravel extensively but still have somewhat cloudy water.  Should I use water clarifiers or just filter it out mechanically with a 50 micron pad?
<<Nix on the clarifiers...you can use the filter pad if you wish, or just wait for the "dust" to settle on its own...usually a matter of days>>
My more distressing issue is with pH.  I have been reading a great deal in the FAQ's regarding the use of RO/DI units and how they affect water quality.
<<Can...if misused>>
While I certainly may have missed something, (yes, I used the search tool), I seem to be finding conflicting information.
<<Differing opinions abound>>
I am currently running RO/DI water directly into my sump to top off one to two gallons per day as a result of evaporation.
<<Yikes!  This is an example of "misuse"...adding raw unbuffered RO water to your system contributes to the rapid depletion of buffering elements as your system tries to make up for what the newly added water lacks>>
I read that this is an acceptable practice,
<<Mmm, no...not in my opinion...a recipe for trouble>>
however, my pH has dropped into the 7.4 range and the alkalinity is at about 80-100 KH.
<<And there is your proof my friend.  If you are going to run the RO/DI water directly to the tank then run it through a Kalkwasser reactor first...else I recommend you discontinue this practice and store/aerate/buffer the water in a separate container before adding to your system>>
I have also read that processed water often has a very low pH and that it should be aerated to dissipate CO2, which "consumes" alkalinity, which would seem to confirm my problem.
<<Aerating/dissipating CO2 will provide a small increase in pH, but you will still likely need to give it a boost...and you still need to boost/buffer alkalinity>>
I'm a bit confused.
<<Have you read here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm >>
By the way, I'm using Jungle 5 in 1 test strips, so I'm not positive about how accurate these are.  
<<Useless...low quality/inaccurate, too easily affected/corrupted by atmospheric moisture.  Do look to Hach, Salifert, and Seachem for good test kits>>
I have a reservoir for mixing salt water and would prefer to use tap water, mixed and aged, for water changes only and continue to run the RO/DI water directly into the sump with the use of a float valve.
<<Depending on the water in your area using tap water for a FOWLR system is quite possible, but running the raw RO.DI to your sump for top-off is not...in my humble opinion and for reasons you have already experienced>>
This will allow me to minimize my use of the filtration unit and save having multiple floats and pumps, while still maintaining an automated top-off.
<<But at the expense of system stability an the associated detrimental affects on your livestock>>
Should I use additives to raise pH and alkalinity or is there a better method?
<<Using additives to "continually" adjust pH and alkalinity in your system creates a roller-coaster effect that will surely have deleterious affect on your livestock.  The "better method" is to adjust pH/alkalinity prior to adding the water>>
I have a general aversion to using additives of any kind and seem to remember reading that manipulating levels in this manner is to be avoided.
<<Indeed>>
What to do?
<<Already stated>>
Thanks for any help that you may provide.  I had hoped to not bother you with an e-mail and find answers on my own, but the more I read, the more overwhelmed I am with the vast amount of information.
<<No worries mate...am here to help>>
I have been reading on your site for a year prior to undertaking this project.  I also refer frequently to Bob's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist".
<<Ah, very good...but don't limit yourself to a single source of information.  You've already noticed the differences in opinion just on this site...best to gather/learn from differing sources and use your own good judgment to make a decision>>
Both have been outstanding sources of information and I appreciate the time and dedication that all of you put into this hobby, or in your case, profession.
<<Mmm, not my vocation but more an avocation...no "expert" here, merely a "student" of the hobby>>
Thanks again,
Lloyd H.
Columbia, MO
<<Happy to assist.  Regards, EricR in Columbia SC>>

Zero-Waste R/O Units...Marine Stocking/Refugium Questions - 07/30/06
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I am new to this hobby, and have a few questions.
<<I'm here to assist>>
First, I have a 150 gallon aquarium, with a forty gallon sump and a 20 gallon refugium.
<<Cool!>>
I am going to buy a RO unit because I am already tired of hauling RO water from the LFS and I know it will save money in the long run.
<<Ah yes, not to mention giving "you" control over the quality/purity of your water>>
Do you know anything about the "no waste" RO units that are on the market?
<<Just what I've read on the internet>>
Would you recommend them?
<<From the little I know...no.  Depending on the model, it appears these units either feed the "waste" water back in to a hot water line, or back in to the cold water line feeding the RO unit.  The first method means the concentrated waste water can get in your cooking, your dishwasher, your shower.  The second method has these same issues to include drinking water...along with much quicker exhaustion of the filter components.  The decision is yours to make, but I prefer to let my RO unit flush the waste water to my garden.  If you do decide to go with a zero-waste unit, I recommend you check with your water company to see if they will require you to have a "back-flow preventer" installed (at your expense) on your home's water supply line coming from the street to prevent back-washing/possible contamination of the municipal water supply>>
My next question is regarding stocking.  I have about 200 lbs. of live rock, a Majestic Angel, one Sohal Tang, one Copperband Butterflyfish, one Scooter Blenny, a pair of Percula Clownfish, one Royal Gramma, one Spotted Mandarinfish, a Mystery Wrasse and a Sixline Wrasse.  I would like to add a small school (5-7) of Pajama Cardinals, would this overload the tank?
<<Is probably fine>>
(I have an AquaC Remora 180 skimmer.)  My last question may seem silly, but will the small and micro organisms from the refugium go through the plumbing, with the water, into the main tank?
<<Not silly at all, and often up for debate re the "survivability" of these organisms when passing through the pump.  I'm of the opinion that concern over "impeller-shear" is over-rated...most organisms will pass through the plumbing just fine.  So to answer your question...yes, the biota generated by the refugium will make its way to the tank>>
I am so glad I found you guys.
<<We're glad too!...and ladies here as well>>
I live in Montana and there is no reef society, that I know of, here.
<<Mmm, there is the Idaho Marine Aquarium Society (http://www.idahoreefs.org/) which I believe services portions of Montana...worth making contact>>
I'm doing this by myself and am getting my information from books and the internet.
<<Indeed...making use of the resources at hand>>
The LFS isn't very knowledgeable.
<<A shame...>>
Thank you for all your help.  Linda
<<Is my pleasure.  EricR>>

RO Filter from Lowe's - 07/03/06
Hello All,
<<Greetings>>
I tested my source water (well) and found the PO4 >= 5.0ppm.
<<Yikes!>>
I was at Lowe's and found an R/O system with 5 gal storage canister for under the sink.
<<Yes, have seen similar>>
I do change 5G every week, but also replace about the same from evaporation.  I can easily replace evaporate the day before water change and do just fine with drinking water use as well.
<<Mmm, I would replace evaporate on a "daily" schedule at the least...will help to keep water chemistry from fluctuating more than necessary>>
My question is whether a whirlpool WHER 25 removes phosphates/phosphorous?
<<Yes...as well as about any RO membrane will.  These membranes are likely the same membranes you'll find in some "aquarium" RO units...just marketed under different names>>
There is nothing specific about PO4. They do talk about Total Dissolved Solutes, ionic materials, chlorine, organic impurities (probably the one I am interested in ) etc.
<<Nevertheless...the unit will definitely make an improvement with your well water>>
I sent an email to Ecodyne, Inc., the mfgr.s of the unit to no avail.  I am smitten with this unit cuz it has everything I need to hook it up...all in one box, and priced well.  Any suggestions, recommendations, advice?
<<I say “get it!”...it will work as well as any bare-bones "aquarium" RO filter.  Regards, EricR>>

Low Cost Water Purifier Sought    6/26/06
Hello,
<Hi Robert - Tim answering your question today!>
  I'm looking to get a decent ro unit for my nano reef as the water  quality is rather bad where I live.  I'd like a Spectrapure unit,  but they are somewhat out of my budget.  Any suggestions for an  alternative low cost quality purifier?  Thanks.
<Unfortunately when it comes to RO units, in most cases, lower cost translates to some extent to lower quality. If you are requiring RO water only for use in your nano reef I would very much suggest you contact your LFS. They will commonly provide you with RO water for little or no cost.>
  Robert

Tap water purifier, product    6/4/06
If anyone is using the Tap Water purifier, make sure the replacement canisters you buy have GREEN resins, not gold! A few years back I had bought one without looking at the canister in the box. When I brought it home, I noticed they were gold. I ran it anyway, and noticed algae beginning to grow, as well as other signs that something was wrong. When I checked the silicate levels, and other parameters, they were high. The owner of the store told me the resins turn gold when they are old. I e-mailed Aquarium systems who make them,
<... TWP is made by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals...>
and they told me, "These are the new gold resin filters we make." This is the kind of people we're dealing with. I don't know about you, but $25-$30 a canister is a lot of money for me. Just thought you might be interested in knowing.                Eddie V.
<Am not a fan of these units period... too expensive for what they do, slow... Bob Fenner>

RO vs. DI (Waste Water)- 05/19/06
Hi WW crew,
<<Hello Bonnie>>
I currently have a Spectra Pure 4-stage RO/DI unit.
<<Nice units>>
Works great, however, I just received a notice from the County that the homes in my area will no longer have a flat-rate water fee.
<<Bummer>>
They will be installing water meters on all the homes.
<<Only way I've ever seen/experienced it done>>
I'm concerned since I know this current RO/DI unit has a ratio of 1:4  (for every gallon made, 4 gallons is wasted).
<<Typical>>
I'm thinking of buying just a DI unit, but I can't seem to get any clear answer as to what the percentage of waste water on a DI unit is in comparison.
<<Is virtually "zero" waste as compared to the RO unit>>
I don't believe the DI units are as thorough in removing all the impurities either.
<<Mmm, not true...the Kati-Ani units are quite good/efficient at removing a wide range of impurities...Anthony (Calfo) swears by them.  And according to him, if you buy the German made resins, they will last for years (with recharging as needed of course>>
Any suggestions would be appreciated.  I have a 30 gallon reef tank which is doing great and do not want to compromise the water quality.
<<To be honest, I don't think you have to be too concerned over the RO unit.  But if you want to make the change, a quality Kati-Ani DI unit will give you many years of service>>
Thanks,
Bonnie
<<Always welcome, EricR>>

RO/DI kills corals? - 05/16/2006
Thanks for all the great tips!  I've been fighting hair algae for months now and decided to take the plunge and purchased a ro/di unit from eBay.  My procedure for water changes was to make 10 gals. of RO/di water and let it set for at least 2 days.  Then add salt, buffer and aerate one evening.  The next evening I would fine tune the salinity and heat the water - usually using it in about 3 hours.  I try to change 10 gals. each week in 40 gal. tank.  Well the first change went fine and the corals all opened up and looked good.  The next change they closed up for a couple days then ok.  The next change they would not open at all, then the flesh started falling off!!
<Yeeikes!>
I stopped using the RO/di and have gone back to tap water, however all the corals are now dead.    My testing and LFS showed nothing wrong with any parameters except a dip in salinity 1.019 that I corrected in a couple days.
<? Better to pre-mix synthetic water for a week or more... make sure the specific gravity is matched before using...>
I've had little trouble with the system for 3 years until now (except the #$#%##@ hair algae)  What the heck did I do!!!
<Don't know... the new water may/perhaps be totally unrelated to the losses... But I would test some of it, or have it tested, to assure something is not amiss here. Bob Fenner>

Re: RO/DI kills corals?   5/17/06
That's probably a very good idea.  How/where do you get water tested?
<Mmm... a Quality Assurance Lab (you can find through your "Yellow Pages" under this title or "Water Testing"... or your own hobbyist kits... for pH, nitrate, phosphate will likely give an indication of what is at fault here... a membrane, possibly a contact filter...>
I've read the threads about mixes being 'toxic' but after a week in the tank
shouldn't that correct itself?
<Mmm, depends on the root/cause... if something is being imparted to the water by the filter itself... possibly not>
In other words shouldn't the corals have
recovered after a few days of mixing in the aquarium?
<Sometimes there is a "cascade effect" of such animals dying off... that takes the rest with them... especially a problem in smaller, less-filtered, balanced systems. Bob Fenner>

Re: RO/DI kills corals?  - 5/19/2006
Thanks again for your kind help, but now it's all over!
I decided to tear the tank down and start over.  That way I could brush all the hair algae off my live rock.  While emptying/cleaning the tank I noticed a foul smell, so I think like you said I had to much die at once and an ammonia spike followed.
<Very common>
  Anyway I set up a 10 gal. tank for the remaining 2 fish.  I used 5 gal of RO/DI, 2 gal. of distilled water, and 2 gal of tap.
I added the salt, aerated and heated for 3 days.  I put the fish in the small tank and they died overnight.  Now it could have been stress, but the other changes are I switched to 'Reef Crystals' (on sale) and the RO/DI.
I've contacted the supplier and he said that the RO/DI seems to be
functioning correctly - 1.5 gal pure for 5 gal. waste water.  Have you heard any problems with Dyoneb filters from eBay?
<Mmm, no... but I would have your water tested... before and after going through these... and NOT drink/use the water for comestible purposes till you have>
It's kind of late but I believe that the hair algae problem was because I didn't have enough water movement.
Only 1 small power head 150/hr I think.  One of the LFS has only used tap water for over 30 yrs. in the hobby.
<Is "good to go" in most localities... as you will/would see my opinions re if you read on WWM re>
Our city has very good water and the only problem besides the chlorine is nitrates and phosphates.  I know that
the phosphates average around .2.  So do you think I can use the tap water?
I sure hope my wife lets me start over again.....
<... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
And the linked files above... Bob Fenner>

RO/DI unit membrane change  - 5/8/2006
At which TDS reading should one change the membrane of a RO/DI unit?  I've had my unit for just over a year and my reading on my meter reads 75ppm IN, and 40ppm out.  I tried flushing out my membrane several times.  I'm thinking this is what is contributing to my Cyano problems.  I've eliminated all other reasons Cyano.  What do you guys think?
Nilesh
<Nilesh - Assuming your TDS meter works fine, most people strive for an output of 0-3ppm.  Thus, 40ppm is quite high.  After 6 months to 1 year, many manufacturers recommend changing all the filters/membranes.  However, it really depends on the system, overall use, and your water supply.  If you had been testing with the TDS meter since the beginning, you could have seen the water level decline over time and be more certain that you need to change the filters/membranes.  At this point, I would suggest making sure the TDS meter is working properly by checking it with distilled water (it should be close to 0ppm).  If it is, contact the RO/DI manufacturer and see what they recommend you replace.  My guess is that without being able to test each component individually, they are going to recommend replacing all of the filters/membranes.  If so, then you can test the output with your TDS meter and develop a baseline to monitor over time.  Due to variations in water supply and plumbing, everyone's input and output TDS readings are different.  However, the input TDS should remain relatively constant for you over the course of the year.  Once you know your individual situation, you'll be able to figure out how often to change the components going forward.  Best of luck, Roy>

RO, RO/DI, or DI   4/28/06
Hi Crew,
<Cindy>
I love this website.  I've learned so much!
<Ah, good>
I have 5 cichlid tanks (50g, 29g, 20g, 12g, and 10g).
We started with a 50g and you know how it goes, one tank leads to another.
<Oh yes>
We've been buying R/O water from a purified water store and hauling it home in 5 g. bottles.
<... I would buy, install, run your own Reverse Osmosis unit>
It's a real pain in the neck and because cichlids are messy I am having to do 50% water changes weekly.
<Okay>
I developed a bad case of tendonitis (tennis elbow) from lifting so many 40 lb. water bottles (I'm only 5'3" and 108 lbs) so it's time I purchase a filtration system.  
<Yay! They're easy to install, use>
I've read through your website and I'm still dazed and confused over methods of filtration.
You make many references to RO wasting an obscene amount of water.
What is an obscene amount?
Is the ratio 4 to 1, or what?
<Very often something like this... however, the vented, a bit more solute laden waste water can be used for other purposes, types of cichlids...>
If so, are the RO/DI units more efficient, or are the ratios the same?
<The same>
What about DI waste?
<Less...>
Can you give me rough estimates of the ratios for all three types?
<Variable per the make/model used and your particular water quality...>
Since I need to make at least 60g per week I don't have enough uses for 240g waste water (even if I used it for laundry and the garden - especially living in Seattle where we have so much rain!).
<... are you sure you need this water period? What types of cichlids, what is the make-up of your source water?>
I've just begun raising cichlid fry so I really want to invest in a good system and am not willing to take chances with tap water.
Cindy
(Cichlids in Seattle)
<Was up there a couple months back giving a pitch at a marine club... and drinking the tapwater... Let's chat re. Bob Fenner>

Re: RO, RO/DI, or DI  4/29/06
Bob,
<Cindy>
I feel honored that you replied.  I read your website all the time and I'm forever quoting you.
<Ahh!>
I've read many of your magazine articles.  Have you
published any freshwater books?
<No... or perhaps "not as yet" is more accurate>
Amazon only stocks two marine books you've
written (one with Anthony Calfo).  I'm always wanting to learn more as I've
only been into this hobby 2 years.
We started 2 years ago with a 50g stocked with the following:
1 Astatotilapia latifasciata (Zebra obliquidens)
1 Aulonocara stuartgranti (Rubescens)
1 Labidochromis caeruleus " Yellow Lab "
1 Melanochromis auratus
1 Metriaclima callainos "Cobalt Zebra"
1 Metriaclima estherae "Red Zebra"
1 Placidochromis electra "Deep Water Hap"
1 Pseudotropheus demasoni
1 Pseudotropheus socolofi
<Very nice mix>
Magnum 350 canister with Bio Wheel
Fluval 3
Stealth heater
I know these canisters are a pain - but I figured out how to prevent the carbon canister from imploding by opening the intake and outtake tubes and
releasing some of the canister water through them prior to taking off the lid.  
<Good technique>
I must admit I am certain I am overfeeding to cut down on aggression.  Most of my cichlids in my 50g have grown to 4 to 5 1/2" long and are male except for the Zebra Obliquidens.
4 months ago the peacock (Aulonocara Ruben Red) was attacked by his tank mates.  I didn't think he'd make it through the night but I moved him into a
12g QT and dosed him with erythromycin to prevent secondary infections.  He survived and I didn't have the heart to put him back in the main tank so I decided to leave him there alone.
<Mmm...>
2 months later my Zebra Obliquidens came down with a bad case of Malawi Bloat. I moved her into a spare 20g someone had recently given me.  I
treated her with Metronidazole and fed her some peas.  I searched your website and began suspecting intestinal parasites (she had been passing
stringy feces) so I treated her again 2 weeks later with Kanaplex for good measure.  She has a great personality and is always on the go dancing around
the tank and in and out of the bubbler.  She's never exhibited any aggression towards the others, however, her tank mates have interpreted her
wild behavior otherwise.  Her tank mates seemed happier without her so I left her in the 20g.
Meanwhile, the peacock was outgrowing the 12g so I bought a 29g and ordered two female Ruben Reds for companions.  The females arrived before the 29g
was ready so I placed them in the 12g and soon after one of the females was holding.  I did an online search and saw somewhere that it takes 3 weeks
before the fry are released (turns out they actually hatch at 15 days).  My plan was to leave the mother in the 12g and move the male and other female
into the 29g.  Approx. 2 weeks later she began eating again so I suspected (she's young) that she'd eaten the eggs and so I moved the whole crew into
the 29g.  9 days later I discovered several fry in the tank.  Their egg sacs were gone and they were foraging for food.  Being the weak heart that I am
(I'll stay up most of the night with a sick fish) I couldn't dream of leaving the fry in the tank and taking chances they'd be eaten.  I ran out
and bought a 10g and proceeded to strip down the big tank (moved the adults into a bucket) and searched with a flashlight (to distinguish the fry from
the gravel) and recovered all 8 remaining fry.  I'm happy to say that they have now all been thriving for 3 weeks in their grow out tank.
<Good>
Meanwhile I decided to get a male for the female Zebra Obliquidens.  He's been living in the QT tank for 2 weeks now.  He's much smaller than the
female so this will be a challenge.  I plan to set up an egg crate partition and move him into her tank and give it a month or two and see if she'll calm
down enough to accept him.  He's gorgeous and all colored up, but at most 1/3 her size.  If it doesn't work out I may have to return him to the LFS as caring for all these tanks has become a full time job.
<Can be so... am always keen to discover, implement more automated, simpler maintenance...>
During all of this (5 weeks ago) I had surgery.  This laid me up a bit and the tank conditions deteriorated for a time and I lost my Demasoni.  He was
one of my favorites.  I felt so guilty.  He was also my nitrate indicator.
I could always tell when nitrates were getting high (although I do have a test kit and use it) because he'd hide in his cave and not come out for
food.  This was tough losing this guy.  He had such a great personality and it amazed me how he wasn't intimidated by all the other big fish.  I had
recently noticed that he was becoming more timid at feeding time (now that the others are so big) and I was having to add extra small sinking pellets
for him.  I had begun questioning the decision to keep him in that tank.  I certainly was over feeding because I was afraid he wasn't getting enough
food (the big guys would crowd at the water line and snatch most of the food while he'd swim around the bottom looking for morsels).  
Here is what I am running on my other tanks:
29g
Emperor 400
Fluval 2
Stealth heater
20g
Penguin 150
Fluval 2
Stealth heater
12g Eclipse 12 (built in filter)
Fluva1 1
Stealth heater
10g
Penguin 100
Stealth heater
I am open to any suggestion for better filtration as well as what you recommend for water filtration.  As my 50g is the most heavily stocked it is
the messiest tank.  I plan on getting rid of the Magnum 350 someday anyway.
I've also been wondering if adding a skimmer might help.
<Mmm, no. Not likely much on a freshwater system>
Sorry for rambling on so much.  I find this such a fascinating hobby.  When I get into a hobby I go overboard.  I'm even educating guys who've been
working at my LFS for years with the information I've gleaned off your website!  
<Good for you, them, the planet>
Oh, by the way, I just bought Boyd's Chemi-Pure and put it in the Fluval in my 20g (which was on the verge of needing a water change) and it was like
giving my Zebra Obliquidens Prozac.
<A wonderful product>
She's been acting skittish lately and she's back to being sociable again.  I'm definitely going to be adding some of this to each of my tanks!!!
Cindy
(Cichlids in Seattle)
<I would keep looking about for larger tanks... consider keeping the Aulonocara separate... Bob Fenner>

Brass RO fittings - Metallic float valve on an RO system  - 04/27/06
Greetings from sunny (finally) Colorado!
<Hello! John Hee from warm and hazy Shanghai.>
My question concerns using a float valve with metallic parts on my RO system reservoir.  All of the tubing and fittings exiting my RO system
are plastic, with the exception of the metallic float valve assembly (the float is plastic, the valve body is brass) on the reservoir barrel.
My reef tank is looking very healthy after a year of using the metal float valve-the pods, corals, snails, fish, mushrooms, etc. are
thriving.  Some members of our local group tell me that the all-plastic floats are necessary, but I can't find anything, fact-based or
anecdotal, on the web indicating that this float valve will contaminate my RO water with copper.  I like the feeling of security from flooding
vs. the prospect of plastic part failures.  What are the facts?
<I think you have the facts: your reef tank is looking fine! On a more serious note, if the valve is being used for RO-only (as opposed to Deionized) water, then you are unlikely to have any problems. Visual inspection for rusting of the brass component should verify this. Brass is not usually recommended for DI water, as the DI water is too reactive. That said, I myself have used solenoids with a small brass fitting for several years with DI water and have not had any problems.
Of course, brass should never be used in or around your tank water or salt water. If those float valves are sitting in the reservoirs after adding salt (or indeed sitting in RO/DI water for a long time at all), this is a no-no.
However, to put this in perspective, I've never had or heard of problems with plastic aquatic float valves that you allude to.
Best regards, John.>

Adjusting pH on RO/DI Effluent - 04/24/06
Hello WWM Crew,
<<Hello!>>
Great to be talking (typing) to you guys again.  I have a question for you as to how you might go about treating the water leaving an RO/DI filter used for automatic top-off.
<<Mmm...>>
The filter is plumbed to a "T" connector in my basement.  One effluent line connects to a float-valve in an aerated 42 gal trash can in the basement that I use for water changes, the other line runs to another float valve in the refugium under my tank, both floats are working well and all water levels are stable.  The tank is a 72 gallon bow-front reef with LPS corals and fish.  My concern is stability in the tank, most specifically PH.
<<Ok>>
The RO/DI filter is continually topping off my tank with water of a very low PH.
<<Indeed...as well as no buffering capacity and little to no oxygen content>>
Tank measurements for PH are running about 8.2 during the day, but
are dipping to 8 at night.
<<Not that bad really>>
I have never had this problem before, so I am attributing it to the fact that I am now feeding the make-up water directly into the refugium without buffering.
<<Yes, probably so>>
My RO/DI filter is a six-stage setup that finishes the treatment with two REFILLABLE DI chambers, both utilizing the same type of resin.  My thinking was that I could remove the resin from the last DI chamber and fill it with washed aragonite or some other sort of slow-dissolving mineral that would boost the PH of the make-up water prior to releasing it into the tank.
<<Maybe, but I'm skeptical the sand will make much (enough) difference...perhaps if finely ground>>
Whatever is used would need to dissolve slowly because water sits in the cartridge all day and is released into the tank very slowly.
<<I recommend you place about a cup of Kalkwasser in the last chamber.  This configuration would work similar to the Tunze Kalkwasser dosing system: https://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_dosing_pumps_top_off_tunze_osmolator.asp?CartId= >>
I love the auto-top-off in that it keeps the salinity in my tank at a very stable level and reduces the number of trips I have to make up the stairs with a bucket of make-up water, but I do not like the idea of putting water into the system without buffering it first.
<<Nor do I>>
Do you think that this would work?  Would you use aragonite?
<<I would try the Kalkwasser>>
Do you know of anything else that may work better?  
<<Dosing through a dedicated Kalkwasser reactor such as this (https://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=PM4111), but I think just adding some Kalk to the last chamber on your filter unit might do the trick...would save the added expense of a reactor>>
Any insight you can offer would be greatly appreciated!
Best Regards,
Bart
<<Cheers, EricR>>

RO/DI...It Wastes a Lot of Water! - 04/22/06
Hello, Thanks again for all you guys do!
<<Ah yes, you're welcome...but don't forget the ladies who make a huge contribution here too!>>
I just purchased a used Kent Marine Maxxima RO/DI unit, got it all hooked up fine.
<<Ok>>
I have one question though, this seems to put out a lot of waste water, it will run probably 5 gal of waste per quart of good water...
<<Indeed...is how these units work>>
Does that seem right or is something real wrong? ( I have never used an RO/DI so I have no idea, it seems like a lot of waste to me)
<<Is a lot of "waste" yes...but nothing is wrong.  For this reason, some folks opt to use quality regenerable Deionization filters (Kati/Ani).  Have a look at these links to get a better understanding of how an RO filter works:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i4/RO_systems/reverse_osmosis.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rofaqs.htm >>
Water pressure is about 67 psi (according to the only gauge I have), the manual says it should be about 65 so I think that's right in the ballpark.
<<Agreed>>
I also took out the resin cartridge and ran it overnight like they suggested for new installs.  One other question, Mag 12 pump vs. the Via Aqua 4900, the Via Aqua is about 1/2 price, will the Via Aqua be OK for a return pump (from the sump to the tank) or should I stay away from it and go with a Mag 12?
<<I have used both, my preference is the MagDrive pump (have had one running more than two years now)...you will find the Via Aqua to be very, very noisy.>>
Thanks again, Mike
<<Very welcome, EricR>>

Storage of RO Water  - 04/19/06
Hi Crew,
<Chris>
Hopefully I wont be banned for asking 2 questions in the same week :-)
<No one has been... yet>
Just a quick one about storing RO water for top-ups. Can RO water be stored in a sealed container with no aeration for a week without
affecting the quality of the water ?
<Mmm, yes... though should be aerated, checked for quality ahead of actual use...>
I have an auto top-up system that tops up the main system from a 25litre container of RO water and I use 2x 25litres containers on a rolling basis, so one is always sealed and stored for about 6 days before it is used. Do I need to find a way to aerate the water while in storage ?
<Mmm, in this/your case, not likely... as the amount delivered, though itself has little to no dissolved oxygen, will not affect overall DO>
What about the active container that the auto top-up system is connected to ?
<Again, no worries. Bob Fenner>
I have to say I spent 90 minutes searching for the answers, but couldn't find anything that would give me absolute clarity :-)
Thanks
Chris

Store-bought RO water - 15/4/06
Hi WWM,
I have been using RO water in my 40 G reef for about two months. The H2o is store bought and is by great bear water co. It says on the package that it
it purified via reverse osmosis. But the source is well water. Is this safe to use in my aquarium?
<Likely fine. However, I would concern myself more with the result than the source. Do test the RO water for common nitrogenous wastes, and TDS. I found I had to subsequently purify my RO water through deionization before it was as pure as I would like it -- but I have particularly nasty tap water.>
Livestock: yellow tang, watchman goby, domino, clownfish. Providing that : it is buffered and aerated before it is salted ?
Thank you ahead of time
John Ferrante
<Thank you for writing. Best  regards,  John.>

Equipment/RODI    3/29/06
Hi Bob,  <James with you today.>
I couldn't find the answer to my question on the site...so I apologize if I'm repeating a question.  <OK>
I recently bought an RO/DI unit. I was using distilled water before.
The TDS on the product water of the RODI is 0.  For top-off water, I added 2 teaspoons of baking soda to 5 gallons of water to buffer.  The PH is around 8.3, but the TDS has jumped to 221!
With this level of TDS... Is this normal?  <Yes, you now have dissolved solids in the water.>
Is this water safe to use as top-off?  <Certainly.>
Thanks for your help!  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Wayne

Re: Equipment/RODI   3-28-06  
Hi James  <Wayne>
Thanks for your prompt reply.  <You're welcome.>
I hope you can clarify something for me. Are their good dissolved solids and bad dissolved solids? <Yep.> I was assuming
that my goal in buying the RO/DI unit would be to achieve 0 TDS. So am I to understand that the RODI unit removes all TDS's both "good" and "bad", and that I need to replenish the "good" TDS that the RODI unit removed?  <The RO/DI units are non-selective in removing TDS, what you have is pure water.  Adjust the alkalinity and pH before adding the salt mix.  Now you have pure saltwater void of all contaminants, dissolved organics, etc.>
Thanks again!  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Wayne

Filtration/RODI System  3/20/06
Hello everyone! <Hello Dena>
Question. I bought an RODI system for my water changes about 5 months ago. I had decided to start filling up my 5 gallon household bottles with it instead of going to the store to fill them up with RO.
I have since been told that it is unhealthy for human consumption due to lack of the normal added stuff we have in our tap water.
Is this true? I have been drinking over 120 oz a day for quite a while now.  Should I stop and continue to make the usual treks to the store like I used to? (getting the RODI filter has made me lazy)
Thanks ahead of time for any info you may have.  <Dena, RODI water is the purest form of water I know of.  Out of your tap the water contains chlorine and fluoride.  The bottled water craze (Aquafina, etc.) contains none of these elements and a gazillion are sold daily, so you be the judge.  James (Salty Dog)>
Dena   

Re: RODI water consumption   3/21/06
You know, that made a lot of sense to me too! I figured if it's good for my wet critters, it's good for me. So I have been drinking it.  However I ran across this article and thought I would pass it along. I am sure that of all of us marine tank keepers, I am not the only one taking advantage of the filters we originally bought for our fined friends and are filling up our 5 gallon drinking water bottles to save time and money. I have found several sites saying that distilled and deionized water is potentially dangerous for human consumption.  <I'd be more cautious about eating green beans out of a can.  Did you ever read the label on such...many, many chemicals in that can.>
Here is one such link. You may find it interesting as will others on your wonder site.
http://chetday.com/distilledwater.htm
As always, thanks so much for your time and quick response.  You guys are great!  <And thank you for the link.  James (Salty Dog)>
Dena

Re: RODI water consumption  03-21-06
Canned Green Beans, Urgggg. Only fresh or frozen for me. <I also.  My daughter buys this stuff in a can, thinks it's safe if it is canned.  Silly girl.>
I think more to the point of all the articles I've found on the subject it is not all the crap that is added to our drinking water. On the contrary, with RODI it is all the valuable minerals and such that are being filtered out of the water that our bodies need. <I'd rather take vitamin supplements.> Not to mention, have you ever left even the smallest amount of your RODI water in the bottom of your Rubbermaid container for long periods of time. You will notice as I did that the bottom of the container begins to get rough. The water will actually eat the plastic! It will also eat through metals. Just a thought others may want to look into.
I will do more research, but for now I think that I will purchase a separate RO system to put under my kitchen sink for my drinking water and keep the RODI for my beloved salty critters!
Thanks for your time on this.  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Dena

Low pH   3/16/06
    I have a 72 gallon reef tank with the salinity at 1.024, the kH at 12dkh, the calcium at 400ppm, and my pH is at 7.8-8.0.  I've tried taking a bucket of the tank water and aerated it outside with a power head on the bottom pushing the water up, did not help, I talked to different LFS and it does not make sense to them.  I tested my water when I make it and is has the same pH of 7.8-8.0 as my tank.
<Mmm, could be your salt brand/mix... this pH is not terribly low though...>
    I have a SpectraPure 4 stage RO/DI unit that I run my water through, I aerate it for 24hrs. and the pH is at 6.9-7.2.  I add a 1/2 tsp. of Kent dKH buffer.  I let is aerate for another 24-48hrs with the power head on the bottom of the bucket, my pH is then at 8.3-8.5.  I have a bucket of water that is just buffered  for top off and one that I add salt to.  When I add the salt ( I've tried Oceanic, Oceanpure, and Instant ocean )
<The last is best/better>
to the water the pH drops from the 8.3-8.5 down to 7.8-8.0 instantly and stays there, even 48hrs. later, I buffered the salt mixed water after 48hrs. up to 12dkh even tried up to 14dkh, after 24hrs the pH is back at 7.8-8.0.
<Mmm, might be your "tester"...>
     I have thoroughly read through the other situations posted on your site and could not locate a situation like this. If you have any suggestions please let me know, which I will greatly appreciate. Your site is an excellent site with a huge amount of information that has been very helpful to me in learning the hobby as my setup is going on 2yrs. old. All my fish and corals look healthy which is the main thing.
<Well, there are other chemical prep.s you could avail yourself of... but if it were me, my system, I would first, check your checker... with another pH test kit/device, and not be overly concerned re the measures you list. Rest assured, many aquaculture and public aquarium settings have far lower values. Bob Fenner>

Buffering RO Water   3/16/06
Hi guys.
<<and Gals>>
I looked on your great site (and even in desperation resorted to others how dare me) <<G>> for two hours and couldn't find a definitive answer so I have to bother you with a question which I am thanking you in advance for answering.
<<No bother friend>>
I recently went with an RO unit because my well water is "sub par"
<<Not uncommon>>
and now my pH in my reef tank has dropped from a steady  8.2 / 8.3 to 7.8.
<<Not the "well's" fault, can happen on "city" water too...generally an issue with tank maintenance/husbandry.>>
Now I have not been buffering my make up water (1/2 to 1 gal per day)
<<Well there ya go <grin>.>>
because I read that in my hundred gallons it should not make that much of a difference but I am now thinking it does and I missed something somewhere.
<<Mmm, probably not a direct result of the top-off water alone...unless you have sufficient "buffering" compounds available (substrate/live rock/water changes/supplements) to the tank on a daily basis the pH will naturally become depressed.>>
I do aerate and heat the RO water for several days however my question is about buffering it.
<<Ok>>
Everyone seems to rave about the SeaChem buffering product however call me slow but I would just like to use Kalkwasser as I have read that will work.  I also read baking soda works too.
<<Indeed...I use the Seachem Reef Buffer myself for buffering my water for my salt mix, though I cut this 3to1 with baking soda to reduce the amount of borate added...and to save a penny or two.  I use Kalkwasser to buffer my top-off, through the use of a Kalkwasser reactor and an auto top-off system.>>
Now my question.  I could find no where as to how much Kalk and/or baking soda or what the procedure is.  I am sure I missed it but I gave her a good go trying to find the answer.  I do not want to foul this up as I have read of the deadly Kalk Overdose Snowstorm and want to avoid that at all costs.  So......do you add the Kalk to the aerated heated RO water till you get the PH to level you want and then dump in as the make up water or does it still need to be dripped slowly.  Or is that even the procedure?  What about the baking soda?  How much per gallon?  Or should I just get with the program and use the SeaChem product.
<<I think some experimentation is in order on your part here.  For buffering with Kalkwasser, a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon is a good starting point.  Any result with a pH of 9 or less should be fine considering you are adding 1% or less of the tank's volume.  For buffering with baking soda, start with a teaspoon per gallon and adjust as necessary.  I would aerate the water for 24 hrs. after adding the baking soda before checking pH to blow off the carbon dioxide present in the baking soda.  Or...f you decide this is all too much hassle, just follow the directions on the Seachem product.>>
I would love to make my contribution by helping you guys answering e-mails for all the help you have given me but I don't think I am there yet.  Thanks again and you guys rock for your dedication to this hobby and answering these questions.
<<I am pleased to be a part of it all.>>
John
<<Regards, EricR>>

Buffering RO/DI water  - 03/11/2006
Hi there!
<Hello>
I try not to write until I spend a few days researching my question and come up empty.  Well, I’m empty!!  :-)
I recently purchased a RO/DI unit and TDS meter.  The water is registering 0.00 on the meter which I am sure is what it should be.
<Yes>
  When I make up my salt water for changes, it’s ph is 8.2.  I have another 5 gal bucket for top off water (tank is only 30).  I use Seachem’s Marine Buffer to prepare the water for top off.  After the pure water is in the bucket I put in ¼
teaspoon of the marine buffer (as per directions after some division) and aerate it for 12-24 hrs.  When I check the ph, it is 9.5ish.  I have tried taking some water out and adding more RO/DI water, but it doesn’t come down more than a point or 2 after changing over ½ the water in the bucket.  How bad is this for my tank?
<If only a small percentage of total volume (less than ten-fifteen or so), not likely a big deal>
I really needed to get the specific gravity down,
<Easy enough to do...>
so I didn’t have time to play chemist anymore.  The bottle of marine buffer says that it will not go over 8.3 even if accidentally overdosed, but I have proven this wrong.  Or does it mean that when it is put in the salt water it will adjust itself and the tank to 8.3?
<Should be closer, yes>
I am really confused.  Please help.
Thanks,
Donna
<Over time, with aeration especially the buffered RO should be closer to 8.2... best to store for a week or more before using. Bob Fenner>

Water Quality/Marine   3/10/06
Hi everybody,<Hello Rad.>
Just after a little reassurance about the cloudy water in my new tank. Had saltwater from RO/DI with instant ocean (mixed in tank) circulating for almost a fortnight (trying to deal with microbubbles issue) - no living matter in yet, I plan to add live rock soon.  My water is really cloudy (opaque & white) & shows no sign of clearing.  Is this normal or cause for concern? Should I ditch the water & start again? or am I safe to add LR?<I believe your problem stems from excess CO2 in the RO water.  Do aerate the freshwater 24 hours before adding salt.  This will rid the water of any CO2.  The CO2 in the water is forming carbonates and causing what you are seeing.  A disturbance of the sand bottom (if using) will cloud water also.>
Thanks<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
    Rad

03/06/06 - RO water
I would appreciate it if you could give me a little advice. I have a 40 (US) Gallon FOWLR tank. When I set the tank up, a few months ago, I used tap
water with additives (chlorine remover etc). I ran the tank for three days and added salt, sand and live rock. Since then I have been using a "Brita"
filtered water for weekly water changes. I aerate and heat the water to 27 deg before adding the salt, when I get the specific gravity at mid range
(about 1.023) I always achieve a ph of 8.4. My tank always maintains a ph of 8.3 and when I use the filtered water for top up I always maintain a
specific gravity of 1.023.
One basic problem I have is that I am British and living in Japan. Therefore the support I can get from my LFS is relatively poor, as my Japanese is not
so good. I will shortly travel to Europe and I intend to order a RO system. Would you please tell me if I understand this correctly. When I use RO water
I need to add something like Seachem marine buffer to 8.3 before adding the salt, then is this assumption correct? When I add the salt and get the
correct specific gravity the water is safe to use?  <I would just use the RO water direct and test your PH.  The salt should buffer the water already.
If you require more then add it but I think you will be ok with just your salt.
Many thanks to your website that has already stopped me making many mistakes.
p.s. I have ordered the conscientious marine aquarist and will pick it up at the same time. (hopefully I can stop asking basic questions when I finally
get my hands on it).
thanks in advance
Steve  < THANK YOU ERICS >

03/01/2006 RO/DI
Hey Crew!!  Great site.  Very informative!  <<Thank you very very much :) >>
Here is my question:  I have been using Aquarium Pharm TWP to make my water for top-off and salt mix.  Finally got tired of spending the money on
cartridges and decided to finally get a RO/DI unit.  I have been reading your FAQs about this and have found a few differences of opinions.  Please help clarify for me.
When I make the water the pure water goes into (2)  5gal Home Depot buckets (I only have a 30gal tank, don't need tons of water).  The buckets are
covered tightly and set aside till I need them.  When I do top-offs, I aerate, heat and buffer one of the buckets for 12hrs or so then check levels
and put it in the tank then reseal the rest.  When I need to add more, I again aerate and heat and check the ph and buffer if needed use what I need and seal the rest.
When I do water changes, I take 4gal from the unused bucket into a separate mixing bucket throw in a powerhead with aeration and a heater and wait for
the temperature to get to the tanks temp.  Then I throw in my salt (Crystal Sea) and continue to aerate and maintain temp for about 12hrs. Check levels
and use.  If I don't use it all, I add more RO/DI water, aerate and heat then add more salt.
I just don't know if I am handling the RO/DI water correctly.  Can I just keep it sealed in buckets till I need it?  It shouldn't be there more than a
week or 2 total, and that is with some use for top-offs and such.  Am I missing a step?  << Sounds good to me.  I have a garbage can with a float
valve that I like to use for topping my tank off.  One thing to keep in mind though is that this is stagnant water and if it sits too long it could begin
to grow bacteria and smell.  Make sure to clean the containers well when you have a chance and check them before using them.  Hope this helps.
Eric S >>
Please advise.
Thanks,
Donna

Low pH, high calcium and KH. - III   2/26/06
Bob (and Crew),
<<Hi Mike!>>
Thank you for your prompt response.  What should I use to bring the pH up in my new water?
<<There are many pH buffers available at fish stores.>>
I'm not concerned about a snowstorm in my new water so much as I am in the tank itself.
<<This is why it's best to mix, buffer and heat your replacement water before adding it to your tank.>>
As a rule, is there a supplement I should be adding to my RO/DI water in addition to the salt mix in order to help with the pH or just as a general rule?
<<Buffer to desired pH prior to adding to your tank. All posted on WWM.>>
Thanks,
Mike
<<Glad to help.  Lisa.>>

RO/DI water... necessary?   2/23/06
Hi, its Luke, we met at the PSAS lecture
Hi, its Luke.
<Hey Luke! Ah, yes, the "Dead Sea" fellow, sans water changes>
We went to outback together with some other folks after the excellent lecture you gave.   I am the young guy that doesn't water change or
skim, Chaeto filtration only with precautions taken to avoid any NNR from occurring.
anyways...
I made a new thread regarding some points from your lecture, and quite as I suspected, people simply don't believe/understand that you encouraged us to
use tap water in our aquariums.
<I do... and do>
Lots of these guys are the fussy-dussys who keep things exactly status-quo with the current trend... (in other words,
the sort of folks who will never make a difference in the hobby)
<Mmm, don't be so fast to judge here>
Anyways, its a medium sized (10,000 members) forum that's really quite pleasant and laid back.  If you wouldn't mind spending the time to make/post
a paragraph regarding your thoughts on the importance of RoDi, I know myself and a few thousand other people would really benefit from it.
thanks a bunch bob
-Luke
<Where? BobF>
I don't know if i remembered to give you the link in my last email, but here
it is if I forgot.
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13177
<Oh, yes... MikeO's work. Don't have time/interest in more work on the Net Luke... you're welcome to post/quote my input... BobF>

Buffering RO/DI   2/14/06
Hello Crew,
<Tom>
There are a lot of answers on your site that suggest one should age, then buffer, RO/DI water before using it to make Instant Ocean and presumably before adding it as top-off water.
<Yes, this routine is best>
What I am not sure about is if this applies when using a two-part alkalinity/calcium supplement (C-Balance).
<Mmm, best to add just one of these in the make-up water, and drip/place the other in the main tank...>
Specifically, this is my current situation:
Generally, I age, but do not buffer, RO/DI water that I use to make Instant Ocean and to top-off for evaporation loss.  However, my alkalinity had been low for a while (6.0-7.0 dKH), so for a couple weeks now I have been using a teaspoon of Seachem Reef Carbonate per gallon of water used to top-off.
<A good product, technique>
As of this morning, I have alkalinity of 8.0-8.3 dKH and calcium of 330-350 ppm (Salifert tests).  That looks pretty well balanced, though both numbers are near the low ends of what Anthony considers optimal (8-12 dKH and 350-425 ppm).
<Yes>
At this point, should I just use the two-part alkalinity/calcium supplement daily, and not buffer my RO/DI water?  Or would you recommend buffering?
Thanks,
Tom
<I would try the buffering for now... along with the abundant biomineral and alkalinity in your salt mix brand (IO) this ought to get you about where you want to go, be. Bob Fenner>

Reverse Osmosis Wastewater   1/20/06
Hello, <Hello Nick>
After many hours of online research on the subject (WWM is always the first place I check) I was unable to find the answer to my specific
question regarding Reverse Osmosis "wastewater".  It is widely known that these units waste anywhere from 4:1 to 10:1gallons in their quest for
purity - my question is can the wastewater be routed back through the
filter repeatedly to maximize the pure water output? <Think about it. if it was waste once, it will be waste again.  In doing this you will be gradually adding to the waste water> I would like to set up a system which would include two holding tanks (one containing tap water and one to hold the pure output water) with my Coralife  4 stage
RO/DI unit in the middle (wastewater would be re-routed back into the tap water holding tank).  Aside from possible shortening the life of
cartridges/membranes are there any pitfalls to setting up this system? <Really don't see any benefit in doing such.  Save the waste water for use in watering plants, washing the dog, etc.> If it matters, I am using chlorinated city water of fairly high quality (aside from the high level of phosphates/silicates).
Thanks in advance! <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
-Nick

Re: "melting" corals 12-12-05 follow-up to the follow-up... processing possibly contaminated RO   1/19/06
Hello, Bob.  My priors are below for review of my system.  Have now lost the torch coral, too.  Pachyclavularia and leather mushroom remain, and a plate
that looks like it's struggling.  The fish are just fine.  I may have figured it out, but I'm not sure, and wanted your opinion.  I place some PolyFilter
during my troubles to combat negative cnidarian interactions, and when I pulled it, it was blue.  
<Yikes!>
I've never medicated the tank, but I bought a copper test kit....
0 in distilled water
.15 mg/L in the tank
.25 mg/L + in my RO water that I've been using (new filters a month ago)
I noticed a very recent email on your site about copper in the source water, and you guys recommended RO, but I'm already doing that, and still with the copper.
<Very strange>
I started the tank with bottled water, not RO, so I'm wondering if after time and water changes over several months, copper accumulation may be
the issue in spite of the RO I'm using now...
<Could be... the blue color...>
Does this make sense that the copper at those levels is killing off my livestock?
<As stated, a possibility>
If it does, how do I combat?  Does carbon pull out copper?
<Yes... activated>
Do you think it would be sufficient to continuously run carbon and/or PolyFilters, or do I
need to convert to (expensive) bottled water for all my water changes and top-offs?
Haven't lost hope, yet, but I'm getting there.....
Tim
<Processing your RO water in a container that hast activated carbon in a filter... should definitely do it. Bob Fenner>

RO/DI water    1/19/06
Hi,<Hello Linda> Thank you again for your prompt response to my questions.  I'm really liking your site! <Glad you do, very informative.>  
    You recommended RO/DI water & frequent water changes in a small [40 gal] reef tank instead of additives. <Depending on the inverts you keep, you may need to dose calcium, strontium, iodide, etc.>  I know what RO water is, but what is DI?  Can I get it in bottled water in stores like Wal-Mart where I now buy my distilled water? <DI is deionized water.  RO and DI perform the same task but DI purifies water