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Is my RODI container ok? 7/22/12
<Mmm, may have had something applied to them... an agent to prevent sticking during processing...>
I come home and immediately wash out the trash can with water followed by a 100% white vinegar total wipe down, followed by another rinse. The smell went away after the vinegar, but has now returned.
<Mmm, not good. I suggest a scrubbing with salt and sponge (just moist enough) and a chlorine bleaching for a week... rinsing, air-drying following>
I have used the water in my ATO system, as well as one water change. I have noticed that there is a slight increase in algae bloom on the glass, as well as one of my brain corals as well as Heliofungia looking sad/deflated.
Tank has been cycled and running over 6 months, all other soft corals/lps are ok. Rodi water is at ~4 TDS (normal for me), I run fresh Phosban in reactor as well as skim 24/, however has not been pulling gunk like it used to.
Here is a link to the can I purchased:
<Generally great products; but I would contact them re your concern, the smell>
This is an Amazon link which states uses as "pet food storage", although the price is WAY off
I have also used standard white buckets from Wal-Mart (in paint aisle) that doesn't list food grade, but is hdpe #2 plastic with no problems, for several years now.
<The Poly is fine... food grade, chemically inert... am still concerned that a non-stick application may be at play here>
Did a water test today and all results are in line with my normal readings
<For what one can test for>
Also, the smell contains no harsh/foul/toxic/burning/chemical characteristic, it really does smell like laundry detergent or something similar. A general fresh meadow scent kind of thing.
The trash can had no slick/sticky/thick/rubbery coatings inside anywhere, and again, I did a good scrub down with 100% white vinegar, no dilution.
<You have mine above. Please do follow up w/ what you learn. Bob Fenner>
Re: Is my RODI container ok? 8/1/12
FYI here is the response from Rubbermaid about my claim:
Dear Mr. Burnette,
Thank you for your interest in Rubbermaid, and for taking the time to contact us.
Our refuse containers are not designed for storing water. Storing water creates a substantial amount of pressure that is more than the container is designed to hold or maintain. We do not recommend it.
Secondly, our refuse containers are not made of a food grade material.
They are designed to store normal household trash.
We do not use any antimicrobial additives in the resin for our refuse containers.
Your satisfaction is important to us. Thank you for using Rubbermaid products and for giving us the opportunity to address your concern.
<Well... I have used Rubbermaid containers, in particular, of pertinence, their "Brute" "trash cans" for this purpose for many years... they are incredibly strong and have never had a contamination issue. I do understand that companies of all sorts seek to protect themselves from liability... esp. when faced w/ their statements being repeated as here... I would still use them for the stated petfish purposes... MANY service companies, public aquariums, aquaculture facilities do... their "troughs" are useful as well for sumps and tanks period, but not nearly as useful for water mixing and storage as they don't have ready-made covers. Bob Fenner>
BRASS FITTINGS ON RO STORAGE
Water Storage 4/13/11
WATER TANK ORDER 12/09/09
RO/DI Water Temp 10/29/07 Hi, I found many suggestions on your FAQs about preparing RO/DI water, and it is suggested to heat and aerate to drive off CO2, but could not find the suggested temperature we should heat the water, not sure if you just mean heat to usual aquarium temperature or you are suggesting more than that temperature, please advise, <Heat it to usual aquarium temperature. This is so that when you do a water change, or add top-off water, you don't shock your fish/coral/inverts with a sudden temperature drop. RO/DI water is usually very cold when it comes out of the filter (or it should be).> Thanks in advance, GermÃ¡n <De nada, Sara M.>
I want to make sure I have this water thing straight... Mainly storing/using RO and synthetic SW 7/8/07 Hi there everyone! First, I apologize this is so long - many questions, all gathered over the last 2 weeks of intensive reading. I have been reading your web site (made a a donation also, <Thank you :)> because I feel like I have read a small book in the past few days) about deep sand beds, skimmers, RO water, water in general, and other assorted stuff. Whew, what a bunch of information!...thanks for providing this site with all your answers to people's questions. However, I still have a few questions I did not see answers for. After reading about water, I want to make sure I have this straight: I have a Kent Marine Pro Hi-S RO unit (installed Dec. 06, primarily because our water company has regular outages (3-4 last year) that put us on boil water advisories, and are not always the best about notification...this way I have water to drink, as well as making my fish happy). This means I no longer need to carry buckets from my LFS guy - nice. However, because of low water pressure, it takes a few days (or more dedicated gathering from me) to gather all the water needed for water changes (a 29 gallon freshwater and a 29 gallon reef. If I read everything correctly, I can put the RO water directly in my reef tank (3 fish, ~20 corals of various types, although mostly SPS, somewhere between 25-40 lbs. LR, deep sand bed) without adding anything - as long as I put it in a 1 gallon container and drip it over the course of 1-2 hours to replace evaporated water. Correct? <That's a lot of work. If you just need to replace a gallon, you can just pour it all in at once. Just make sure your top off water temperature is relatively close to tank temperature. If it's right out of the RO unit it could be really cold. Now, if you're mixing Kalk solution or something like that, then it's prudent to drip it in. > After reading about buffering, should I automatically buffer it even before adding it this way? And if I store it while I am gathering 5 gallons in a bucket (usually 2 days of gathering), it should go into a covered container with a powerhead or airstone to circulate the water and prevent it from becoming stagnant, right? Or how fast does it go stale? <Are you doing all this just for top off water? Buffering (if needed) and circulation are good things to do for water changes, but usually unnecessary for small top offs.> As a Christmas present, my brother presented me with ~10 5-gal. buckets that were once used to keep kosher dill pickles. Will the pickle smell hurt anything if I store water in these containers? <I doubt it. The smell is probably from the vinegar and a little vinegar shouldn't hurt anything. However, if you're really concerned, just test the water's pH before using it.> Or should I try to clean out the buckets (don't know how, it seems to have permeated the plastic - overwhelming smell if you close the bucket up and then open it a few days later!). <Coincidently, many aquarists use vinegar to clean out buckets and equipment because it's a safe cleaner that dissolves calcium deposits. You should rinse out the buckets well, but I can't imagine you'd need to worry about any residual vinegar that might have penetrated the buckets.> Also, re:. adding saltwater - if I only add 1-3 gallons (less than 10% on my tank), I can mix up the water and add it without a 1-3 day prep, however, if I have more, I need to create it, keep it heated, and aerated...again in a covered container. Right? <This is the most prudent practice, yes. That said, if you need to do a water change in a hurry or in an emergency, just make sure the water is well mixed and close to tank temp, salinity and pH.> Also, how long does it take for mixed saltwater to go bad if there is no aeration? <I'm not sure what you mean by "go bad." However long you let it sit, you can always re-aerate it. If you're ever worried, you can always test the water's pH. Sitting water freshly out of the RO unit can sometimes be acidic. Aerating it should remedy this.> I read quite a bit mentioning this, but never with any general timeframes - it makes me think the water will go stale (fresh) or bad (salt) if I leave it unaerated even 24-48 hours, hence the questions. <I think you may be over-thinking some of this. If your water has been sitting for over 24hrs, just re-aerate it with a powerhead. :) > Thanks again for all your inputs and your fast answers to everyone's questions, <No problem. Thanks for writing.> Kerstin DeRolf :-) P.S. I know my current tank is crowded - I am hoping to upgrade soon. However, everyone is generally happy, so it must not be too bad for them - I just know I would like to have more room for all, so I am hoping to upgrade to a 92-gallon this fall (if my husband doesn't have a conniption). Thx again, Kestin:-) <Overcrowding with fish is especially bad for reef tanks. It will be good if you can upgrade to a bigger tank. Just try to resist the temptation to get more fish for the bigger tank. ;) Best, Sara M.>
Mainly storing/using RO and synthetic SW... Double-posted... 7/8/07 Try 2, in case it didn't go through the first time...I want to make sure I have this water thing straight... <You'll learn not to double-post here...> Hi there everyone! First, I apologize this is so long - many questions, all gathered over the last 2 weeks of intensive reading. I have been reading your web site (made a donation also (FYI for those who don't realize it's possible), <Oh, yes. Our Amazon "begging bowl" is at the bottom of most pages> because I feel like I have read a small book in the past few days) about deep sand beds, skimmers, RO water, water in general, and other assorted stuff, and I know I have much reading left to do. Whew, what a bunch of information!... thanks for providing this site with all your answers to people's questions. However, I still have a few questions I did not see answers for. <Okay> After reading about water, I want to make sure I have this straight: I have a Kent Marine Pro Hi-S RO unit (installed Dec. 06, primarily because our water company has regular outages (3-4 last year) that put us on boil water advisories, and are not always the best about notification... this way I have water to drink, as well as making my fish happy). <Good> This means I no longer need to carry buckets from my LFS guy - nice. <Ah, yes> However, because of low water pressure, it takes a few days (or more dedicated gathering from me) to gather all the water needed for water changes (a 29 gallon freshwater and a 29 gallon reef). If I read everything correctly, I can put the RO water directly in my reef tank (3 fish, ~20 corals of various types, although mostly SPS, somewhere between 25-40 lbs. LR, deep sand bed but no sump or refugium) without adding anything - I do it with a 1 gallon container and drip it over the course of 1-2 hours to replace evaporated water. Correct? <Should be fine... If the changes were a few gallons all at once, I'd suggest aerating the water... And of course, making any chemical and physical changes to it ahead of use> After reading about buffering, should I automatically buffer it even before adding it this way? <If needed, yes> And if I store it while I am gathering 5 gallons in a bucket (usually 2 days of gathering), it should go into a covered container with a powerhead or airstone to circulate the water and prevent it from becoming stagnant, right? <A good idea> Or how fast does it go stale? <Mmm, never really> On a slightly different topic...As a Christmas present, my brother presented me with ~10 5-gal. buckets that were once used to keep kosher dill pickles. Will the pickle smell (which has seriously permeated the plastic) hurt anything if I store water in these containers? Or should I try to clean out the buckets (open to a suggestion how, am leery of using bleach). <Do give them a scrub with "rock salt" or such... and a few rinses till there is no smell... I prefer the Rubbermaid Brute trashcan series... maybe with a spiffy wheeled cart, cover...> Also, re:. adding saltwater - if I only add 1-3 gallons (less than 10% on my tank), I can mix up the water and add it without a 1-3 day prep, however, if I have more, I need to create it, keep it heated, and aerated...again in a covered container. Right? <This is best> Also, how long does it take for mixed saltwater to go bad if there is no aeration? <Again... indefinitely good...> I read quite a bit mentioning this, but never with any general timeframes - it makes me think the water will go stale (fresh) or bad (salt) if I leave it unaerated even 24-48 hours, hence the questions. Thanks again for all your inputs and your fast answers to everyone's questions, Kerstin DeRolf :-) <No worries re the water going "bad"... the same molecules have been on this planet for billions of years...> P.S. I know my current tank is crowded - I am hoping to upgrade soon. However, everyone is generally happy (randomly checked levels, and other than an elevated nitrate (am getting a new protein skimmer), all values are as dictated (ammonia 0, nitrite 0, alkalinity 9dHK, pH 8.0 (before bright lights on), spg 1.026, calcium 420) so it must not be too bad for them - I just know I would like to have more room for all, so I am hoping to upgrade to a 92-gallon this fall (if my husband doesn't have a conniption). Thx again, Kerstin:-) <Heeee! Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: fish behavior, storing filtered water - 6/25/07 Thank you kindly for your response. Since writing this, the Pseudochromis has appeared, but unfortunately half eaten. The clown has not turned up at all. It is very upsetting to know that the stress I created by cleaning the live rock killed these poor guys. Another lesson learned for me! <Ah, yes> I neglected to ask one question. I have been reading up on storage of filtered water, as a Kold-Steril unit is on the way for me. I have read that most people store aerated and circulated RO water for their top off. I understand that it is best to let the water aerate and circulate for several days before using. <Mmm, a few minutes will generally do here> My question is what happens when you get to the end of the stored water? Surely, you cannot go several days without top off, and adding new top off to the existing storage seems to defeat the purpose of circulating for several days. Do folks actually keep two buckets of top off circulating so that there is always aged top off available??? Regards, Kim in Boston <I don't... some can be added w/o aeration... it's just the big changes that might cause troubles with low DO here. Bob Fenner> Water Storage 11/28/06 HI guys, <Hi> I have a silly water storage question for you! After I run my tap water through my SpectraPure 5 stage RO/DI filter I keep it in a 30 gallon Tupperware covered barrel for storage. <ok> I then take out 10 gallons of this water once a week for my weekly water changes on my 55 gallon tank. I mix the salt, heat the water and run a powerhead with the lid off of an 18 gallon tub that the 10 gallons sit in 24 hours before I change the water in my aquarium. <Sounds good.> My question is, do I have to run a powerhead in the large barrel of water 24 hours a day or can I just aerate the 10 gallons of water 24 hours in advance of using it for a water change. I'm trying to cut down on my exorbitant electric bill! Thanks for your time. Lynne <Your current method should work fine as long as you are not experiencing any problems.> <Chris>
RO/DI Water 11/28/06 <Greeting, Mich here.> I store my make-up water in a utility closet in my laundry room. <covered or wide open?> Also in the laundry room is my cat's liter box. From the initial smell, you would think my cat only eats beans <I'm so sorry. Is your cat OK? Can be a sign of health problem, may want to talk with you vet, consider a different cat food.> (yes the box gets cleaned almost daily). Because of this (air borne fecal bacteria) and other factors, such as other air borne bacteria, <Ammonia would be my first concern.> should I have some sort of carbon filtration along with the heater, buffer and powerhead? <Wouldn't hurt, but don't know if it's necessary if you keep the containers covered.> The reason I ask this question is because in times past I have seen a pink film (I believe it's the early stages of mildew growth <or iron/rust>) on unclean toilets, tubs and animal water bowls. Should I even be concerned at all with this build up in my storage container? <I would empty it and clean it regularly with water and baking soda.> I only use about 5 gal a week to replace evaporation and 15 gal every two weeks for water changes. Thanx, <welcome> Duane A.
-More on storing purified water- Thank you for the quick response from my other question regarding premixing saltwater. I find your website very useful. I do have a few more questions and please correct me so I know I am doing things right. I currently make my own distilled water and there is NO contact with copper. How long should I aerate it to get the carbonic acid out? <Overnight, if you determine that you have some sort of a co2 problem from distilling> After I aerate it, what brand would you recommend to add back the important minerals and buffers before using is for top off water or mixing salt with it? <Add nothing for mixing salt, add marine buffer when you use it for top-off> Should I use the same method for both the water I use for top off evaporation and water I use for making saltwater. <No need to buffer it when mixing saltwater> I currently use The Kent Marine Super DKH in my 55 gallon tank to keep my Alkalinity and ph at par levels. Would this product be okay to use in the distilled water to make it okay to use?. IF not what brand would you recommend. <The Kent stuff is fine> In other words I make my own distilled water and would like to know the steps necessary so that I can use the distilled water for replacing water evaporation and using it making saltwater. Remember I have a 18 gallon tank with a Aquaclear 500 filter that I use to store my saltwater ready to used at any moment. <I would store it as-is with no buffer in it. Only do something to it when you're ready to use it. Good luck! -Kevin> Thanks! Donovan Sacramento, Ca
- RO Water Storage - Hello, I keep a 90gal planted Discus tank. The tank is about 6 mo. old and mostly doing fine. My question is regarding my water. I have a RO drinking water system in my house so I upgraded it slightly and installed a 40 gal. storage tank with float switch to store fish water. At each water change I add about 30% tap (Well) water to my storage tank and let the RO fill it back up. I have a heater in the tank keeping it at the proper temp. This creates the proper hardness for the Discus and has worked well. Recently however I have noticed some scum floating on top of the water in my storage tank. I realize that I need to clean out the tank periodically but my question is am I making things worse by adding the tap water to the storage tank? <No, likely just stuff from the air - would be best if you added a pump for circulation, perhaps a small power head to stop the water from getting stale.> Should I be storing only pure RO water and adding the tap as I do the water change? <Shouldn't be an issue either way.> My only problem with that is the only tap water I have that hasn't been through a salt brine water softener is cold so I would have to have a way to pre heat the tap water as well. <Just your regular heater should do the trick.> Should I be concerned or should I just clean my tank and move on? <Uhh... just clean the storage tank and move on.> Thanks for the help! Kurt <Cheers, J -- >
Float Switch ???? Hi bob Great site. My question is I have an RO/DI system hooked up to an 55 gallon tank .However I have forgotten the unit of twice now. My wife is very pi$%^ed because I have flooded the downstairs bird, laundry room. The carpet is shot now. I need to hooked an automatic shutdown for this RO/DI . Plus would like to hookup float switch from 55 to my sump. Do you have a part ## or sites to get this info. If I flood these rooms again she will kill me. Thanks Capt Gene <Hi Capt. Gene, Join the club..... The float kits for the RO and the switch for the tank level can both be purchased at our WetWebMedia.com sponsors. Foster and Smith, Custom Aquatic, etc. all carry these wife protection devices. Use a timer with a LOUD buzzer or a water timer in the meantime! Craig>
Re: ro/di Hi crew, After, a long research endeavor and with the suggestion of Bob, I have decided on a 100gpd ro/di system for both my 90g reef and my 110g fish only tank. My question is two fold... 1) should I START both tanks with ro/di effluent or can one use tap and then use ro/di for changes and top off after cycling! <I'd use the best water to start with> 2) my 90g is right next to a slop sink so no problem in having access to the ro/di water, yet my 110g fish only is about twenty feet away from this sink. so having said that, how do I combat that distance... putting change and makeup water in a tub or Rubbermaid bin is not feasible, in that not only would it be too heavy to bring over to the tank but I can not wheel it over either in that there is a Bump of sorts in the floor I would not be able to get a dolly over.....Do you all know if there is an attachment of sorts that would help here..... or maybe have a real long 20 ft tube from the ro/di effluent product water over to the FO tank??? <I would get/use a designated "fish only" plastic bucket or tub, dump the R.O./D.I. water into it, and use a small submersible pump or good-sized powerhead and length of vinyl tubing (and plastic clamp to hold it in place) to move the water from the utility sink (with the bucket/tub in it) to near or in the tank. Bob Fenner> Thanks Guys.... HI ANTHONY!
Storage Water - 6/12/2003 Crew: <Don here today> I am a little behind on my reading, but I just read a FAQ from 4/18/2003, titled "- Re: Pervasive Nitrates -", from Sheri. As it relates to my storage water, the aeration question was answered like this: "...it takes very little time to aerate a container of water". I am a little confused, as I constantly have an airstone, heater and powerhead in my storage water container, which is about 35 gallons and lasts me about a month. Should I turn off the airstone a day or two after mixing a fresh batch of water? <I leave the airstone and power head on all the time. Don>
A Little Confused...Still - 06/14/05 Thanks for answering ALL my questions.............just a few more. <<Did you think I wouldn't <G>?>> If I do switch to using RO water should I gradually do that with my routine water changes and topping off water? <<This will work fine, yes.>> I should let the RO water sit for a few days before I use it right? <<My suggestion would be, as a minimum, aerate for 24 hrs. and then add buffer and mix/let stand for a couple hours before use as top-off...if adding salt mix (after adding/mixing buffer)...aerate and/or mix with a pump/powerhead for another 24 hrs. before use. If you have the space/forethought, it's best to mix your saltwater and let it "age" for a few days before use.>> If I use RO water what buffers do I need to add? <<Can be done with simple sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), though I prefer to mix it (2 to 1) with a manufactured buffer for the benefit of the carbonate and borate salts of the latter.>> Are you talking about a pH buffer?....what else? <<pH and alkalinity, yes.>> And please recommend some brand names that you trust. <<I'm quite fond of the Seachem buffers (Marine or Reef...either will do) for quality and price.>> Ok.....that's it for now :) <<We'll be here if you need us <G>, Eric R.
RO water storage Hello, <Good morning to you> I have a few questions about storage of RO water. Tonight I purchased a RO unit from Sears and also picked up a Rubbermaid trashcan. I have to pick up some compression fittings from the hardware store, but other then that I almost have everything set up. As for the questions: 1) how long can I keep the prepared water in my basement in the covered trashcan with a heater, aeration and powerhead for circulation? <Indefinitely> 2) I use Instant Ocean mix, do I need to add anything besides maybe pH buffer before I mix the salt or are most/all of the trace elements in the Instant Ocean mix? <Nothing to add, all in the mix> 3) I was thinking of using a submersible pump and a garden hose to pump the water from the trashcan to my tank for water changes. Would this work or is this just a bad idea? <No, a good idea. In fact, a simple powerhead may do double duty here... with a bit of flexible polyethylene hose to conduct water to your tank/s> I don't think it would destroy the submersible pump if I flush it out after each use. I'm just not sure if using one could harm the fish. 4) Can I just keep the heater, aeration and powerhead running all the time? Or is there such a thing as too much aeration? <You can. Do rig up an extension cord you can turn all off at once, while you're moving water> Thanks in advance for your time! And thanks for such a great site for a one stop source of information! Tony Merlo <You're welcome. Bob Fenner>
R/O water and salt water storage Hi Anthony or Bob, hope all is well. <with hope of the same for you and yours> I haven't sent a question for a while! All is well with my tanks no problems or issues, everything growing well and chemistry has been fine. <excellent> A friend of mine is building a really nice reef set up with the main reef 84"x24"x28" and his sump/refugium is a 180 gallon 72x24x24 tank. Due to this size he purchased two 55 gallon containers to provide R/O and salt when required. I like his idea, we built the containers up on a stand about 30" put bulkheads in the bottom with 3/4" ball valves with tubing. With gravity you have a nice delivery system that can make water changes a breeze. So I just purchased two 55g containers to do the same. One will supply R/O water to sumps in my two main tanks a 125g, and a 90g. The question is with 55g of R/O water, evaporation is about 3g a day, even with a small powerhead in the container won't the R/O water harbor bad bacteria or stagnate? <minor but can in time. Covered and dark is usually best for keeping most water. Aeration of RO will be necessary at least one day prior to use> What about the salt water. How long can I keep the 55g of salt water going with a small power head in the bottom. <I don't know that you need to mix constantly with the PH. Just at first to dissolve and then again one day prior to aerate. The trick of full time aeration is the formation of insoluble calcium carbonate from all of that turnover> If I only use 20g for water changes then refill to the 55g top, then add salt required will this be O.K. sitting for 3 to 4 weeks? <sure> This will be repeated month after month, so there will be partial water that may be very old in the 55g drums. <not a good habit/practice but no big deal either> One last question, I noticed the web site has a new email address firstname.lastname@example.org should I be sending my questions there, <yes...please do. As mail increases, so does our crew size (hopefully!).> I am still using the old email (Bob's) one and don't want to inconvenience anyone. Thanks in advance Larry <no inconvenience, bub... just progress. Kindly, Anthony>
Re: New Tank David, I'm sorry,...I should have re-read my message that I sent to you...I didn't just set up a 75 gal...I moved up to that from a 40 gal. Since I moved the live sand and rock , my new 75 gal. didn't cycle. <Possible. However, if the sand was, is deep and it gets adequately disturbed, it could cause a short cycle...quite easily> But I think the new sand I added caused the ick break-out. I hadn't had ick for 8 or so months in my old tank. I didn't add any new fish, but was just asking how many I could add without affecting my tank water, and the fact that I had an outbreak of ick. I have added two fish at a time in my old tank and everything seemed ok. <You must be a fish gambler...you know..."Throw it in and see how it swims." If this is the course that you have already decided on then do it. But I wouldn't...especially if you're not quarantining> I get my RO water, and store it in containers until I need it. Can I put a tsp. of Clorox in 6 gal. containers if I let them sit for a couple days? <You can clean containers with a Clorox/water mix, empty the Clorox/water, let the empty containers air-dry completely for a day or so, rinse them, and they will be fine. This is the process that I use. Never use any kind of soap. Only bleach>> I heard that the Clorox dissipates after 24 hrs. Is that true? <You mean out of the Clorox/water mix? I have no idea why you need to know this but I certainly wouldn't use the Clorox/water mix for anything except cleaning...then down the drain> Thanks for the info. <You're more than welcome! I hope you will consider my suggestion to read more about aquarium husbandry and tank setup. A good place to start is Wetwebmedia.com. Check out the "setup" section and the "maintenance" section...There are hundreds of fact for each section. David Dowless>
Question on RO/DI System I just purchased a Coralife 3 Stage RO/DI System which produces 50 gpd. Unfortunately, the instructions on this "stuff" doesn't explain the average ratio of time it takes to produce that 50 gallons.<<Huh? 50 gallons per day/gpd... divided by 24 hours per day... RMF>> Is the average 1 gal / hr., 1 gal every 3 hours? In my case, it seems like a whole day event just to get enough to do a water change on a 75 gal tank. <Under optimum conditions, your RO should produce just a tad over two gallons per hour. Water pressure and temperature have a lot to do with the amount of water you will get out of the RO in an hour. Get yourself a couple plastic five gallon pails and make your water ahead of time.> James (Salty Dog) Please advise. Thanks for your help. Sheryl Weaver RO storage Dear Mr. Fenner: A quick question(s) for you. What do you recommend to use for my RO water storage? Rubbermaid, Sterilite, etc. will these brand containers be OK? <These are fine... a Rubbermaid Brute with matching cover and wheel base is ideal for most applications> I just don't want any contaminates leaching into the water storage. <Almost all human-intended use containers are fine here. Bob Fenner> Regards, Jim
Storing R/O Water Ok, First off... thanks for the great site, and all of your (3) help! Q#1 - I'm contemplating the R/o thing as I'm moving to an area (LA) with very hard water. I've seen many of these setups in homes and they all have puny storage tanks so I see the need for that garbage can setup you've mentioned in earlier posts. My question is this: What exactly is your set up from R/O unit to the "garbage can/storage container"? Do you use a float valve? <No, I just run the line right to the can and keep track of the time.> (all details please). I'd like to hide the garbage can in a closet near the kitchen where, I'll be hooking up the R/O. Q#2- Can you suggest any particular brands of R/o makers or all they ALL good?? <I prefer SpectraPure. We have a link to the webpage on our links page.> Q#3- Is there anything that's already been created as an entire unit for aquarium use or would it be easier/less expensive to put something together for myself (from home depot for instance)? <I always buy the 32 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans from Home Depot. I also highly recommend the four wheel dolly for moving the can around.> Thanks, J <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
RO water storage Dear Mr. Fenner: I have a quick simple question. Should I aerate my RO water storage? <Yes, for sure> I would use water from this storage to top off, make Kalk solution, and any water changes necessary. Also should I use a RO water conditioner before adding to the tank (top off), Kalk mix, and mixing salt (water changes)? Thanks <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm and the links, FAQs listed at top of this article for more detail, input. Bob Fenner> Best Regards, Jim in Florida
Re: RO storage Thanks for the quick reply, you and your crew are great!! Jim Sarasota, FL <always welcome my friend... please pass along a good word about our Wet Web Media site to help educate our fellow aquarists... for the love of it!>
RO water Hi Bob. I just ordered a Kent RO unit and have a question. I always age the salt water I do water changes with, but is it okay to have the RO unit empty the water it makes right into the sump for water top-off, or should it be aged, also? Thanks in advance! <Good question... and no problem with "not aging" (i.e., I would just have it go "right into the sump" w/o storage... most all "bad stuff" that can be removed by storage will have been taken out by the contactor and RO parts of the unit. Bob Fenner> Jason
RO or RO/DI I have a few questions about RO and RO/DI units. 1. Do I need RO/DI? Will RO be just as good? I want the best for the fish and inverts. <R/O wastes a lot of water.. plain DI would be best. Combo if your water is really bad> 2. I have read that you should not turn off RO units, turning them off will decrease the filters life. If this is true, What about RO/DI units? <no experience and dubious if the units are flushed regularly> 3. I have also been told that RO waste a lot of water, does RO/DI? <yes... an obscene amount> 4. If I purchase a Rubbermaid can with lid, how will I be certain that no ill chemicals will be leaching into the water being stored from RO or RO/DI? <they are commonly used safely but come with no guarantees> 5. How long can I store RO or RO/DI water in a rubber maid with lid? <aerated and dark for weeks> 6. I have seen attachments for drinking water on RO units, is there a way of getting an attachment to work with RO/DI units? <no idea... please check with mfg> 7. Which units would you recommend for a 120-gallon marine tank? I Will eventually be adding inverts and fish. <I like the Kati Ani brand DI units> I have been doing a great deal of reading on your site and others, but I am having no luck finding these answers. Your direction and help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Jesse <Best regards, Anthony>