Sick Sebae Anemone, Not enough lighting. – 12/2/07
Dear Crew,
<Hello Sami, Brenda here>
I read a lot of your answers regarding anemones and the Sebae anemone in particular, but still have 2 questions regarding my Sebae that I got 2 days ago. It would be great if you could comment. The first is whether or not I can touch the anemone and turn it around (it has been upside down since noon today). I read somewhere that this was a very bad position, as its tentacles cannot breathe this way. But I also read that one should leave the anemone alone as much as possible. So, should I turn it around (if so, with my hands and gloves??). By the way, it is white (and I know I have to get it brown and healthy now). I fed it mysis shrimp which were sticking on its tentacles and it did eat. I intend to get Selcon also.
<It sounds like you have a very sick anemone. How was it acclimated? You can try turning it over, but it is likely it will just turn it self over again. I would definitely wear gloves.>
The second question concerns my lights: I have a 40 gallon breeder tank, so it's not too deep (< 18"). I have the Coralife Lunar Aqualights (2x96 watts I think). I have the white ones on from 12:00 to 6pm and the actinic on from 7AM to 8PM, the lunar lights from 8PM to 7AM. Is this ok?
<2x96 watts of PC lighting is not enough for this creature.>
FYI, I have 70lbs LR, a wet-dry trickle filter, an Aqua C protein skimmer. I have two false clowns, a royal Gramma, a lawnmower blenny and snails/hermit crabs/1 emerald crab, 2 conch snails. I have 2 mushrooms. The tank is 4 months old.
<A 4 month old tank is not old enough. Anemones need established environments, 6 months to one year.>
Salinity: 1.025
<1.026 is better.>
temp: 78
Calcium: 420
Alkalinity: 4
<I’m not sure what method you are using for testing. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm >
Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate: 0
Magnesium: 1200.
<I would aim for the 1300 – 1500 range.>
Thank you guys so much!
Regards, Sami
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: Sick Sebae Anemone, Not enough lighting. – 12/4/07
Thank you for your comments below, Brenda.
<You’re Welcome!>
I turned the anemone around and fed it (it did eat, at least)... I will try and nurture it back to health. Hopefully it works..
How much lighting would be needed in your view? (I read that 4 watt per gallon, so in my case 160 watt should be sufficient, and thus thought that 2x96 watt was all right)...?
<This is only a rule of thumb, and not a good one in my opinion. You also have to consider that 96 of the watts that you have are actinic which are more cosmetic than beneficial compared to the daylight bulb. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm If it were me, I would go with a 2x175W watt metal halide or a 6x39W T-5 setup with individual reflectors.>
Kind regards, Samira
<Good luck to you! Brenda>

Re: Sick Sebae Anemone, Not enough lighting, Coral Recommendation – 12/13/07
Dear Brenda (or other crew members),
<Hello Sam, Brenda here>
Unfortunately my anemone died. I was sad about this but mainly angry about myself.
<I share your sadness.>
The shop should not have sold this already sick anemone to me but I should have done more research and believed the more conservative sources (there is so much conflicting information out there).
<It is not unusual for a LFS to have an unhealthy anemone on display. It is sad, but not unusual. I have found very few shops that impressed me with their anemones. Collection and shipping is very harsh on these animals. In many cases, by the time they have reached the LFS, they are on their way out. Many places do not have the knowledge, space or the equipment need to assist the anemone in regaining its health. Captive reared anemones are best. I would rely on information from those that have successfully kept these animals (or any other marine life) long term when researching their care.>
I don't think I will get another one for a long time.
<I don’t recommend anemones in a 40 gallon system unless you are experienced with keeping anemones. Your lighting would also need to be upgraded.>
But I am wondering what you would recommend for me. As I said, my 40 Gallon breeder tank is approximately 4 months old, I have 2 clowns, a royal Gramma and a lawnmower blenny and 2 mushrooms (also some snails and hermit crabs). I would like to add some corals slowly and ideally something that my clowns could host (the little one sleeps on the powerhead now).
<Protect the intake of the powerhead. Smaller sleeping fish have been known to be get too close to the intake.>
My water parameters are all in line with suggested levels; I have a protein skimmer, wet-dry trickle filter and compact fluorescent lights (2x96). What type of corals (if at all) would you recommend to me?
<There are plenty of soft corals that you can get. The mushrooms like you already have, some Xenia, green star polyps, yellow star polyps, Kenya Tree, and leather corals are all good choices.>
Thank you,
Sam
<You’re Welcome! Brenda>

Re: Sick Sebae Anemone, Not enough lighting, Coral Recommendation – 12/17/07
Thanks a lot Brenda,
<You’re welcome Sam!>
As always, your response was very useful.
<Thank you! I am glad you found it useful.>
I wish you and your team happy holidays and a great new year already!
Kind regards, Sam
<Happy Holidays to you and your family also!>

Anemone Hiding, Inappropriate Food – 10/08/07
<Hello, Brenda here>
I'm not sure of the exact kind of anemone we have, it is white with pink tips. Why does it stay hidden in the rocks?
<It is not happy. What are your water parameters, tank size, lighting, filtration, age of system, etc.?>
It used to come out and open up but now it stays under the rocks and closed up except for the pink tips you see. I feed it Zooplex about every other day.
<This is not appropriate food for an anemone. They need small portions (no bigger than the mouth) of meaty foods 2 – 3 times a week. I suggest feeding silversides, krill, raw shrimp, or mysis shrimp.>
Thanks for any information.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Overstocked with Anemones 3/13/07
Hi,
<Hello, Brenda here>
I couldn't find the answer to this, I have looked.  I have a BioCube 29.  It is 4 months old.  It's doing pretty well, except the nitrates are 20.
<Need to be zero.>
We are working on this and have just installed a protein skimmer.
<Good>
I now know not to trust the LFS.
<Excellent!>
They said a Sebae was a hardy anemone.
<It is considered a difficult anemone.  Your tank is not old enough for an anemone.>
It is still a light brown, it looks pretty healthy, but it has picked up and wants to hide behind rocks.  I have been trying to feed it Mysis shrimp with baster.  I can't tell if it's taking it because it closes up kind of.
<Anemones will compress to get the food to their mouth.  Sounds to me like it is eating.>
It's never been sticky since we've had it, about three weeks.
<It’s not a healthy anemone if it is not sticky.  It’s able to hold on to food?  It should be sticky then.>
It also turns upside down or on its side and keeps half way closed.  Its mouth is not gaping.
We have a blue damsel, lawnmower blenny, 2 Turbos, an emerald crab, 2 clowns (Nemos), button polyps, a rock anemone, mushrooms, and a "common" anemone (kind of white with pinkish tips).
<You have too many anemones.  More than one species to a tank will cause problems.  Your tank is also border line for one anemone, unless you are experienced with anemones.    Crabs can not be trusted with anemones.>
Should I take the Sebae back to the store so it can live?
<Yes>
It seemed quite healthy when I got it.  It's a good fish store, it's just that some employees don't know enough it seems.  
<You need to research before you purchase.>
Is my tank too crowded?
<Yes>
It is very peaceful.
<There is likely chemical war going on in a 29 gallon tank housing three anemones.  It is not peaceful.>
Thanks Millions,
Amy
<You’re welcome.  Brenda>

Re:  Overstocked with Anemones 3/13/07
Hello,
I read further before you answered and realized that at the very least, I don't have the light.
<Yes, that is a big problem.>
I just hate the thought of killing something and I have a three year old running around and she doesn't understand I have to read.
<I also hate the thought of something dieing.  Ouch, 3 year old and reading?  I remember those days!  However, you also have a responsibility to the animals that you bring into your home.  Saltwater tanks need attention too.>
We took it back this afternoon.
<Good to hear.>
They thought it was healthy enough, so that's good.  The weird thing though is that I asked about the common anemone and the rock anemone having the chemical warfare like you said and he said "no, it's more of a contact kind of thing".  He also said a white Sebae is fine.  
<Sorry, he lied to you, or he just doesn’t have the knowledge.  I’m sure he has no written documentation to back that statement up.>
It's when they are translucent that it is a problem.
<That is also a problem.  It usually comes right after or with the bleaching, or the expelling of zooxanthellae, which is the same as bleaching.>
He wouldn't argue with me, he just said he doesn't believe in the internet.
<I’m sure he doesn’t.  There is too much information available.  It is likely hurting his business.>
He also said he's one of the best fish breeders in the country.
<He may be one of the best fish breeders in the country.  His fish may be healthy.  Then again, he may not be telling the truth.  A “white” Sebae is far from healthy.>
I understand that everyone has their opinions about what works best, but these two things seem like factual matters.  What's a person to believe?
<You are correct, these are factual matters.  Believe yourself; take some time to do your own research.  I have spent years researching these creatures, and feel confident in the advice I give others.  Have you given any thought to joining a local reef club?>
I believe you guys 100%.  The only thing I will add to my tank is more live rock.  I couldn't get the common anemone off his rock, but I will bring him back too when he does let go.  Do you think those two are fighting and I can't see it?  I can't yank him off, but I can work on it.
<No, yanking on an anemone.  You will tear him.  Try aiming a power head at him to get him to move.  They do not have to be next to each other to sense their presence.>
Since I have you here, do you think I should get rid of the lawnmower?  He does eat flakes and pellets and Mysis.
<They survive on algae.  There are algae type foods that you can give him.>
He was recommended also.  I guess it's a lot of stuff for an employee to know, but I wish they would tell me they don't know if they don't.
<Yes, we all wish that.  Remember, they are they for your money.  Walk in with some knowledge.>
You know, I had a tank over 15 years ago, fish only with one anemone.  He was great for a long time and he had a clown fish.  One day he just died.  Now I know why.  Not enough light.  Things were somewhat different back then.  I'm surprised at all the changes.
<Yes, technology and research has come a long way.>
Really, Thanks a Lot!!
Amy
<You did the right thing Amy!  Remember to research before you buy.  Brenda>

Bleached Sebae Anemone – 3/10/07
<Brenda here to help.>
Reading all the info you have provided.  Thanks.
<You’re welcome.>
I see that "regular feedings" of a "meaty" substance is crucial for an unhealthy, bleached Sebae.  How often is regular?
<Regular feedings are always crucial for this anemone.  Since yours in bleached I would feed every two days to start with.  If the anemone recovers you can feed twice a week.>
And how much of what do you recommend?
<Try feeding silversides soaked in Selcon.  Portions should be smaller than its mouth.  Gently drop the food near its mouth.  If it is regurgitating the food, try an even smaller piece.>
We have a completely bleached Sebae that is not looking too good.
<I can imagine.  Was it bleached when you purchased it?  If not, you need to figure out what caused it to bleach.  It could possibly be caused from lack of lighting or poor water quality.>
We are very new to this hobby and unfortunately were told this was a "fairly easy" anemone to have.
<This anemone is considered difficult to keep.  You have been misinformed. Your tank needs to be well established to keep this anemone, six months minimum, a year preferable.>
We have had it for several weeks, feeding it Cyclop-eeze 1-2x/wk.  
<Cyclop-eeze alone is not adequate.  I personally do not use it for anemones.  I would stick to the silversides for now.  Then you can move on to other meaty foods such as krill, Mysis shrimp, or raw shrimp, keeping silversides as the primary food.>  
It hasn't attached to anything yet.  It seems to be trying to attach to the front glass (which is really not where we want it.
<Anemones will go where they are most comfortable.  I recommend leaving it alone at this point.>
We have a 65 gal. tank by the way.  It changes size almost daily, getting smaller for the most part.
<That doesn’t sound good.  Keep your water parameters perfect.>
It shrivels a lot and at one point completely closed up with no tentacles showing but reopened later in the day.  Please just give as best you can some specific care instructions to try and save our first attempt at anemones.
<What type of lighting do you have?  Metal halide lighting is best.>
A little more info - we also have a blenny, goby, percula clown (that has no interest in the anemone), and a bright red shrimp.  Along with a star polyp and daisy polyp.  Some small snails and 1 large snail.  We keep temp. around 79 degrees and water quality is good.  We add purple up daily and a calcium supplement, flakes for the fish.  
<I would stop using the purple up.  Many have experienced problems using it.  Make sure your salinity is at 1.026, and target a pH of 8.2.  Also make sure you are testing calcium and alkalinity before dosing.  Please be sure you research all of your livestock before purchase.>
Signed, drowning in tank info.
<Good luck with your anemone!  Brenda>

Re:  Bleached Sebae Anemone – 3/12/07
<Brenda following up>
Thank you so much for such a quick reply on specific help for our anemone!!!  
<You’re welcome.>
We will give it our best care and hope for the best!   I did think of one other question.  I understand that it is very important to remove a dead anemone as quickly as possible from the tank to keep from harming other inhabitants.  Is it obvious when it is dead?  
<If the mouth is gaping for long periods it is likely on its way out.  Once it is dead, you will likely see some build up of slime and it may look like it is melting.>
Because frankly there are times we thought it was dead only to see signs of life later.  Is there a time frame we are looking at as to when we should remove it when we are fairly certain it is dead?  
<Time frame, no.  Anemones can live a long time being bleached.  They can also perish overnight.  Given the fact that this is a new anemone, it may be still acclimating to its environment.  Anemones can also look pretty bad when they are expelling waste.  It is best to always have premixed saltwater ready for an emergency water change.>
Hopefully it won't come to this!  And on the upside, it actually has attached itself for sure to the front, bottom (glass) of the aquarium.
<Great!>
Not a great spot, but at least it's alive.
<Not only alive, but it also has the energy to attach itself.  Many times sick anemones are being tossed around in the current.>
Thank you again!
Drowning in tank info
<You’re welcome.  Brenda>

Re:  Bleached Sebae Anemone – 3/13/07
Me again!  
<Me?  As in “Drowning in Tank info”  LOL  Brenda here again.>
Ya'll are great!
<Thank you, happy to assist>
I did get the silversides.
<Good!  How about the Selcon?>
Should the anemone pretty much eat it as soon as I present it to him, or might he hang on to it for a little bit?
<A healthy one would typically eat right away.  A bleached or unhealthy one may take longer or not eat at all.>
He did react with movement when I put it over its mouth but didn't eat it.
<Good, try again tonight.>
Should I gently force feed him?
<No, never.  If you tear its mouth it will likely never recover.  The mouth is very delicate, very thin tissue.>
He hung on to it for a few minutes but then the silverside floated away.
<You may want to turn off or turn down the flow for a bit to allow it more time to eat.>
I am a little afraid of forcing it in, should I be?
<Don’t even consider forcing it to eat.  Give the anemone time.   Brenda>

Re:  Bleached Sebae Anemone – 3/14/07
I actually don't have a question this time.  I just wanted to thank you for all your help!
<You’re welcome>
This is the best web ever!  
<Wow!!!  Thank you!>
I wish there was a site like this for all my problems in the world! LOL
<Me too.  Let me know if you find one.>
Just wanted to let you know that the anemone ate great last night.
<Fantastic!>
It was fascinating to watch.
<Yes it is.>
Let's hope for the best!
<I’m keeping my fingers crossed.>
And I'm sure I'll be in touch again!
<We’ll be here.>
By the way, we didn't/couldn't fine the Selcon.  Should I try something else with the silversides?
<I am not aware of a suitable substitute.  You may want to order it on-line.  
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/product/productInfo.web?infoParam.mode=1&infoParam.itemKey=207914 >
And I thought I didn't have any more questions.
<Not a problem.>
Drowning in tank info
<Brenda>

Re:  Bleached Sebae Anemone – 3/19/07
<Hello Drowning, Brenda here>
The anemone has moved to the bottom of my tank.  How do you feed silversides when it is out of reach for me to do it by hand?
<Try cutting the silversides up in tiny pieces and use a turkey baster.>
Drowning in tank info.
<Brenda>

Concern re Incorrect Information on a FAQ Posted.  Could a note be Added? <<Mmm, yes. RMF>>, there are NO naturally white Heteractis species  - 02/21/07
Hello Mich,
<Hello again Brandon!>
Here is the image that seems to be lost in the stream of bits, bytes, one's and zero's that we call the Internet.  I was a programmer before I started messing with water.  
<Oh!  Do you know anything about placing rotating banner ads?  We have been trying to place the ads on our site and have run into multiple issues.  I received the image with the other query.>
As promised here is the text that I found that concerned me as well,
<I will inform the powers that be, of your concerns.>
"*Sebae **Anemone*
Hello Again, (It has been about 1 month since my last email, heehee) The tank is running perfect with the RO water changes and the Prizm, (I don't know about a 90 gallon, but for my 26 it's pulling out tons of dry skim, only complaint is a little noise, a good compromise though.)  I had a sebae anemone surprise delivered to me in a ordering mix up, I contemplated sending it back but didn't know if it would survive the shipping again so decided to keep the freebee.
Its white, which scared me at first, but then I realized that all the pictures of bleached anemones appeared translucent, mine is sort of a creamy off white sheet rock color.  It has purple tips.  It attached to my rock in the lower areas of the tank and hasn't moved yet (1 week).  It responds well to being touched (shrinks away) but doesn't feel sticky as it probably should.  The only thing that it would eat was a little squid, no Mysis, fish fry, or krill.  I have 130 watts of brand new lighting right on top of the tank.  Do you think this anemone has expelled its algae or can I salvage him. Oh he's about 3 inches diameter and my Percula shows absolutely no interest.
I know clowns have a tendency to fight but could I add a small Clarkii?  Thanks a ton guys.
Eric
<<<Many Sebaes are naturally white so he should be fine.  The lighting will be sufficient for this anemone also.  Please read here for more info on these guys:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Cody>>>"   <Wrong. RMF>
This alarmed me because I have never heard of a H. crispa, H. magnifica, or any other Heteractis spp. for that matter, being white.  Also it would seem to be in conflict with a statement that Mr. Calfo made that went something along the lines of, " <<<<this is a common reality/problem my friend. Your anemone is dying... and it was not a good candidate from go. Frankly (not berating you), your merchant should have known not to sell this animal and you should have known not to buy it (as an educated consumer...
research your livestock's needs before you buy them). This species of anemone is naturally dark in color (usually brown) with dark purple tips. Yellow is not a natural color and indicated an animal that is bleached and/or has been dyed. It will be dead within days. Few live weeks beyond import. I really don't know why merchants pay for these things when they are shipped to them. If they stopped paying for them and if consumers would stop buying them, then the collectors would get their acts together and stop
shipping them unhealthy. Please read more about anemone health and car in our archives. Be sure to follow the links at the top of the page too. Best regards, Anthony>>>>"  It would at least appear to me that you all seem to advocate not buying the white specimens in lieu of tan or deep brown specimens.  
<Yes.>
Mine is a very deep brown/tan color.  I have not made up my mind as to the pigment, it seems different every time that I look at it.  
<Happens.>
As for the attachment, I was trying to narrow this guy down to subspecies.  I know that it is of genus Corallimorph, I am strongly leaning toward a species of Rhodactis, I really would like to know if this is correct, and if so what subspecies is it.
<Yes is a Rhodactis.  More in other query.>
I bought it mistakenly as a type of leather coral.  What I get for listening to the people at the store.  From what I have found I am not quite out of my league, as I am regularly hand feeding a Plerogyra sinuosa, a Trachyphyllia geoffroyi, a Heteractis crispa, two colonies of Tubastrea spp., and now the mystery Corallimorph.  I introduced food into the tank and a mouth appeared.  It was quite large, so I fed it. The mouth consequentially went away, after taking the Mysis of course.  
<Yep.>
Also I am going to quote the address of the offending page,
<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaefaq2.htm the 12th query down.>  
perhaps it should be looked at with some scrutiny, again guys I am not trying to undermine the work that you do.  It is as I told Mich, you very wonderful and dedicated people are often the last line of defense against, haste, lack of knowledge, and general disregard for common sense.  But, I would hate for someone to see this and think that all was well, when in fact it is not.  
<Thank you for your observation.>
I would love to help you guys out in any way that I can, and if there is ever something that I could do please do not hesitate to let me know.
<We are still trying to place rotating banner ads on the site and have run into numerous problems.  Any chance you are knowledgeable in this area?  Any assistance here would be most appreciated.>  
With the utmost gratitude,
Brandon R. Foster
<Thank you, -Mich>
B <<Got it>>
The photo that he is referring to was sent in another query and was place on the FAQ’s from 2/20.  His note is quite lengthy, but his point as I understand it is: the response that was given is incorrect and he would like to see a note added stating as much so other aren’t mislead.  It is the 12th query down on this page http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaefaq2.htm  
Below is the text he take issue with and the justification.
<Many Sebaes are naturally white so he should be fine.  The lighting will be sufficient for this anemone also.  Please read here for more info on these
guys:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Cody>"   <<Is not a factual stmt. RMF>>
This alarmed me because I have never heard of a H. crispa, H. magnifica, or any other Heteractis spp. for that matter, being white.  Also it would seem to be in conflict with a statement that Mr. Calfo made that went something along the lines of, " <this is a common reality/problem my friend. Your anemone is dying... and it was not a good candidate from go.
M