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FAQs about SPS Corals
2 Related Articles:
SPS Corals, Acroporid Corals,
Dyed Corals, Related FAQs:
SPS 1, SPS Identification,
SPS Behavior, SPS Compatibility,
SPS Selection, SPS Systems,
SPS
Lighting,
SPS Feeding, SPS Disease,
SPS Reproduction, Acroporid Corals,
Agariciid Corals, Astrocoeniid
Corals, Merulinid Corals,
Pectiniid Corals, Pocilloporid
Corals, Siderastreid Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior, Coral System
Set-Up, Coral System Lighting,
Stony Coral Identification, Stony
Coral Selection, Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior, | |
Re: Less Problematic Large Angel In SPS Dominated Reefs
9/4/06
James at al.,
Thanks for your reply.
Trying to
obtain all the info I can get on this issue before I decide, I've been
re-reading your "angel compatibility FAQ", and noticed one of your crew
answers that, somehow, I missed before.
When asked the top three
large angels he'd choose for a reef, on a "blind decision", Bob Fenner
answered: "<Okay... Pomacanthus annularis, Genicanthus species of any
kind you like, Chaetodonoplus mesoleucos... my choices. Bob Fenner>.
The Genicanthus spp. is easy to understand, but I've been wondering why
the P. annularis. Specially in number one. Is it because of a specific
diet or behaviour that is distinct from the other Pomacanthus?
<I
don't believe that Bob recommended these fish as "safe" reef dwellers,
just the ones he would choose "if" he had to make a choice. The
annularis will nip at base of sessile invertebrates including
corals. They are also known to pick/nip on tridacnid clams.>
I did
not consider the P. Annularis before, because I had the impression it
would be similar to the P. Imperator (which I prefer) as regards its
"reef safeness", but this statement made me look at it with new eyes...
And if the Annularis is less "Russian roulette" than the ones I've been
considering, I may opt for it.
<If you MUST have an angel, I would
go with Bob's suggestions keeping in mind that none are totally safe.>
Regards,
<And to you. James (Salty Dog)>
João
Coral Lighting 8/21/06
Hi gang, great site it’s been a source
of information for me for many years.
<Glad you enjoy/learn.>
I
am in the process of planning out a new 125 gallon SPS reef. I’ve had a
55 gallon Zoa tank set up for the last 2 years and I’ve been very
successful
with it and now I’d like to upgrade to something a little
more challenging.
That being said, I have a few
questions on lighting.
I had initially planned to go with 3 250watt
MH HQI (10000k) and also use 220 watts of VHO 20000k for some additional
color. However, I was told that I’d need to go with 3 400watt MH HQI
for Acro frags.
<Who told you that, Edison?>
I question this; it
seems like an ungodly amount of light for a tank of this depth and I
worry it would overwhelm even the most demanding corals and I wanted to
get your thoughts on it.
<Three 175 MH's should work fine providing
they are not pendant lights.>
Second, I plan to use my old 55 as a
fuge with a remote DSB and would like to place some of my more colorful
Zoa colonies in the SPS tank (probably more towards the bottom) for
additional color. I run activated charcoal regularly to help maintain
water clarity and I skim aggressively, with that said, do you see an
issue with the zoa’s in a SPS tank?
<I'd filter with Chemi-Pure in
this regard. You will have some chemical aggression taking place here
and we want to minimize the chemical content in the water. If you are
going to mix corals, stay away from the potent types like Galaxy,
Elegance, etc. Do search our site and others for Allelopathy/Chemical
Aggression.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
John
SPS collection business 8/21/06
Dear
Bob and crew,
<Alan>
I'm thinking of starting an exclusive
Acropora collecting business to supply to the trade. I only wish to
collect Acroporas from the wild by
fragging a few branches from a
colony and gluing them unto rocks for sale in order to minimize impact
on ecosystem.
<Mmm... can't really be done this way... need to
collect colonies, keep them in captive conditions... some time (months)
later frag them... Too hard to make the transition otherwise>
I
suppose this will generate faster returns rather than having an
aquaculture facility which requires more overhead cost and time.
<...>
Do you think this is viable in the long run?
<Nope>
Any words of wisdom? Thanks a lot.
Best regards,
Lee
<Keep
studying, dreaming, planning... Bob Fenner>
Lighting/SPS Corals 7/24/06
Great site.......you have helped
me greatly in the past. One quick question. I have a 100g tank with 2
65w 10,000K bulbs and 2 Actinic 65w bulbs. Can I grow SPS corals with
this lighting,
<No>
Or do I need MH bulbs? Please let me know
and if I need MH bulbs, which ones do you recommend?
<If you tell me
your tank dimensions, I can better answer your question.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jeromy Sharks and Corals 7/19/06
Hello.
<Hi
there>
I have a 300 gallon shark tank with 2 young banded bamboo
shark in it that hatched at my home.
<Neat>
I have a very
large cave structure that is cemented together in the center of the tank
that they sleep in and prowl around.
<Good layout>
The rest of
the tank is open water. I was wondering since my rock work is so stable
and I can't even topple it over if that I could keep some SPS corals
on the top of the cave close to the surface to dress the tank up a bit.
<Mmm, maybe...>
I would choose corals that don't sting of course.
<Not really much of an issue...>
Would this be a problem?
<Likely will have problems with water quality for the SPS (need high
biomineral, alkalinity content), perhaps easily knocked off the rock at
night...>
In the wild they live around the stuff so I figured it
would be ok.
Any input would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Justin.
<Worth trying. Bob Fenner> Feeding the
Reef Tank 7/4/06
Hi there....sorry for asking 2
questions in one day.
<No worries.>
I'll make this short.
<Awesome.>
What product do you recommend as food for SPS corals?
<Large refugia is great, other than that variety...specifically?; Read
this:
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic20086-9-1.aspx .>
Or
personally, what product have you used for SPS food and have had great
results?
<Google: Eric "Hugo" Borneman Recipe.>
Thank you
<Adam J.> Lighting For
SPS....Buying the right light - 5/17/2006
Hello
crew,
<Hi Tim>
First off I want to thank you guys for taking the
time to look at this e-mail. I am trying to get the right light for my
reef tank. I am planning on upgrading to metal halide lighting. My
display is a 75 gallon tank that measures 48" long x 18" wide x 18" deep
(from the sand). I already have a couple Acropora frags as well as two
Stylophora pistillata specimens. This is the kind of coral which I
primarily wish to house. I plan on using balanced lighting, most
probably in the form of both 10,000K and 20,000K bulbs. I was looking
at a fixture that has two 250 watt HQI and one 150 watt HQI and assume
that this would be overkill as it comes out to well over 8 watts/gallon.
<More than needed.> Another fixture I saw had two 150 watt HQI and one
70 watt HQI. This comes out to almost 5 watts/gallon which I believe is
close to a good target value. Is this correct. Will this second
fixture be sufficient for the more light hungry Acropora that I wish to
grow?
<Tim, with your 18" deep tank, I'd feel more
comfortable with three 150 HQI's for the light loving corals you intend
on keeping.>
Also, I was wondering if you guys
have any preference in fixture brands?
<I think Current
USA makes a nice fixture for the money. In bulb brands?
<I like
Ushio lamps.> I know that some metal halide bulbs are clearly better
for gardening and was wondering if the same holds true in reefkeeping.
<Some brands such as Ushio have a more accurate color temperature and a
little more intensity. You may want to check this company out. They
carry the new
Odyssea light fixtures that I've heard are nicely
built and a bargain. There is an error on this link, they state three
175 HQI but I'm sure they are 150's as I
have never saw 175
HQI's. See here...http://www.aquatraders.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275 Do
keep in mind I have had no experience dealing
with Aqua Traders.>
Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for the help,
<You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Tim SPS Accident -
5/8/2006
Hey everyone,
I had a little accident with an
Acropora in my tank. I broke off four 1 inch long pieces - fragging by
accident I guess. I have always wanted to
propagate my own coral to
become more self sufficient in the hobby. I have some small cylindrical
bases for the coral and want to use reef putty to
connect the frags.
My question is in regards to the base of the frag being slightly buried
in the putty. I need to get at least a couple of millimetres
into
the putty to get the frags to stand. Is this alright or should I try
something else.
Cheers
Marc
<Marc - Yes, it is OK to stick
the frag in. If it grows, the base will eventually cover the
putty. With new frags, it is usually best to try to duplicate the same
lighting and flow they had before they broke off for best
results. However, with a brand new frag, you might want to start the
frag lower in the tank and then move it higher over the course of
several days. Best of luck, Roy> Arothron and SPS - 5/2/2006
Hello All,
<<Hello Craig.>>
I am interesting in purchasing an
all black Arothron nigropunctatus to place in a 200 gallon tank (after a
vigorous 4 week quarantine period) with my other fishes.
<<Sounds
nice, and it’s nice to hear QT!>>
All my other fishes are reef safe,
and my bioload will not be upset by this fish.
<<OK<>
Once he
has been acclimated to his new diet (four daily mixed pellet feedings of
Thera+A and Vita-Diet from two different auto feeders; 3 times weekly
homemade frozen with Mysis, Cyclop-eeze, Natu-rose, Spirulina, Selcon,
vita-chem, Nori, krill, plankton, squid and clams; live Mysis and
copepods from refugium as well), I would give him at least 6 months to
love his new diet.
<<Do be sure not to over feed, and offer plenty
of crunchy foods to wear down his dental plates.>>
Then comes the
idea that I have been playing around with--adding two or three different
colored plating species of Montipora capricornis and a nice yellow
specimen of Porites cylindrica (I do have the proper lighting and more
than enough water movement). I would appreciate any comments on chances
of success, or modifications to improve on any chances of success. I do
not have to have these corals, but they are my favorite and it would be
great to add them to my tank with all of my marvelous fishes.
<<Corals and puffers together is always a gamble. Some will chomp them
to bits, others will never touch them. The entire family is quite
curious, and will sample/chomp on many things. My best advice to you is
to watch closely, and be prepared to choose one or the other, should a
problem arise. You may have better luck adding the Arothron after the
corals, as to not highlight their addition/existence. Also note that
shrimps, bivalves, clams and such will more than likely fall prey to the
puffer in no time. All that said, ultimately it is up to the fish how
tolerant/intolerant they are, and if you do decide to go this route,
it’s your job to be prepared to remove the puffer or the corals to other
proper accommodations if need be. Good luck my friend!>>
Thank you
for your comments. I appreciate your time and knowledge.
-Craig
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
Chemical Warfare? 4/6/06
I mentioned in my last email that
my SPS started showing signs of stress. Their tips started dying.
I
have a doubt about my anemone, do you think that it can secrete
allelopathic substances that can affect the SPS?
<I believe that it
is entirely possible, which is why I discourage mixing corals and
anemones in most systems.>
I looked up the archives but I am not
sure if this is right or wrong.
<I think that the theory is right.>
It has been in the tank for 6 months now and once in a while, I lose one
or two of my SPS for the same reason, either dying tips or bleaching ,
but mainly the tips begin to die.
<Could certainly be allelopathic
competition, or some lapse in environmental conditions.>
Do
you think it is the anemone? The water chemistry is great, calcium is
above 400 and heavy skimming all the time with Euro-reef skimmer, water
changes every 2 weeks !!
I am confused and I need your help. Thank
you.
P.S. It is a red, long tentacle anemone.
Regards,
Ramy
Ontario, Canada
<Well, Ramy- in the absence of other possibilities
(such as environmental lapses), the only theory that I have is that the
anemone could be an issue, unless you're looking at some type of disease
affecting the coral. My advice is to "specialize", and keep only the
coral or the anemone...Hope this helps. Regards, Scott F.>
Marine Algae Woes
4/6/06
Hi Bob,
<No his young pal Adam J. with you tonight.>
Hope
all is well.
<He was good last time I chatted with him...though
busy (aren't we all).>
I got these red algae, they are all over
my reek tank now. They are like little cotton clusters .I tried
manual removal, black snails but they are out of control now.
Is
that something I should be concerned about ???
<Yes.>
I
realized that some of my SPS are not doing that great lately.
<Astute observation.>
Please see attached photo. Thank you.
<Ramy before I give you advice please use the search engine in the
main site re: Cyanobacteria and nutrient problems.>
Ramy,
Ontario, Canada.
<Good luck, Adam J.> | 
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SPS problem!!
4/6/06
Hi there,
I have a problem with my SPS, I
started the tank almost a year ago. I have this algae growing now
and dominating the tank ( see attachment )
The growing tips of
the SPS die and then the whole piece dies off afterwards. Any
explanation ??
<Not good... could be pathogenic, but much more
likely environmental in its allowance/occurrence>
Do you think
this algae is the reason ??? Thank you.
<No... this is
secondary, tertiary... Most likely the root problem/s are
environmental.>
Regards,
Ramy
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Scroll down
to the Scleractinians tray... read re SPS, Acropora Systems,
Disease... Bob Fenner> |
SPS problem !!
3/29/06
Hi Bob,
<Ramy>
I had my 150 gal running for a
year now, housing only SPS and clams.
Everything is fine so far
except that one of my favorite Acros started showing the following :
The growing tips started to break and are covered with algae.
<Yikes!>
I can see the polyps extending but not as much as they used
to be. I haven't moved this piece from its spot for more than 5 months,
same lighting conditions, great water values , nothing else is wrong.
So what could have gone wrong ????
<Very likely "just" the unnatural
make-up of aquariums at play here... Changing the flow (increasing
greatly), introducing some smaller fishes, perhaps switching out some of
the live rock... will steer your system back toward where you want it.
Bob Fenner>
Regards,
Ramy, Ontario, Canada. Please Help! -- Mg damage to corals? Sclera.
health - 2/28/2006
Hi Crew,
<Greg>
I hope I am worrying
needlessly, but I am concerned I might have an unknown coral predator or
a water parameter problem with my 180g reef. My main concern is one
Acropora with approximately a pea-sized exposed skeleton near the base
of one branch and ½” of skeleton exposed on one tip. A brown
mucous-thread-like substance covered the Acropora, with dead tissue
trapped in the bottom of this mucous net. I siphoned-off the mucous and
dead tissue, cut off the dead tip of one branch, then dispensed a tank
water + Lugol’s solution over the remaining bare skeletal areas. I just
fear that this area of necrosis might be spreading. This Acropora is
placed approximately 8 inches from a 7” Crocea clam (which occasionally
produces a similar-looking mucous-like “net” near the byssal
opening). So I am unsure if the Acropora coating was from the Crocea or
if it was produced by the coral.
<Mmmm>
Two days prior to this
happening I did move a rock that was attached to this Acropora and one
tip was broken off the Acropora. This has never been an issue in the
past as new flesh would cover the exposed skeleton within a week and new
branches would form. Possibly this initial stress is what led to the
current tissue necrosis. Current water parameters: Temp=77°F,
Salinity=1.024, pH=8.1, alk=3.2 meq/L, Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0,
Nitrate~1ppm, Ca=440ppm, PO4={below meas. Limits}, Silicate=0). I did
also increase temperature on my heaters from 76°F to 77°F a few days
ago. I performed a 32g water change at the same time.
A little
history…
About two weeks ago, I noticed that all of my Montiporas
were becoming much lighter in color. I was not overly concerned because
they have lightened and darkened in color several times over their 2
years in my tank and they continue to grow well. Although water
parameters have always remained within acceptable ranges previously, my
salinity dropped from 1.025 to 1.022
<This is a huge difference>
over the course of a day just before the Montiporas changed color a few
weeks ago. A snail had stuck my makeup water float switch in the “on”
position for a day, flooding my 100g refugium and diluting the water
with RO/Kalk mixture.
<No fun>
My pH measured 8.2 so I was only
concerned about the sudden change in salinity (makeup water flows at
only 10gpd). I removed 10 gallons of tank water and slowly added 10
gallons of very high salinity water until tank salinity measured
1.023. The following day, I repeated this procedure until the salinity
reached 1.024. All fish, corals, clams, other inverts appeared to be
unstressed so I assumed that worst case, this might have induced a
temporary color change in the Montiporas.
<Takes a while to show...
weeks, months>
Since my alkalinity and pH have always remained near
the low end of acceptable (pH=8.0-8.1, alk=2.5-3 meq/L) despite using a
Kalkwasser reactor for top-off and the addition of Na2CO3 and NaCO3, I
bought a Mg test kit to determine if a low Mg level was partially
responsible for low alkalinity (Ca=440 ppm). Mg measured 1,140 ppm
<Close enough...>
so I mixed 10 teaspoons of Seachem Reef Mg in 1
pint of RO water and dripped this into the pump intake in my
refugium. An hour later I repeated this. According to Seachem’s label,
I would have needed to repeat this process a few more times to reach the
desired 1,300 ppm but I noticed another Acropora (near the return line)
with mucous-like threads waving from its polyps. I was concerned that I
might have changed the Mg level too quickly so I made no further changes
to the tank for the next two days.
<Good>
I did continue to
noticed these “mucous threads” waving from the Acropora polyps at
times. This is a different Acropora than the one that is currently
displaying tissue necrosis. Could dosing Mg in this way cause tissue
necrosis in Acropora?
<Possibly a factor, not likely "the">
This
particular coral is not in direct flow of the pump return line.
One
Montipora has completely bleached (although polyps are visibly extended)
but I did move this coral to a lower light area of the tank when it
initially began to bleach. All other corals (4 Acropora, 1 birdsnest, 1
open brain, 1 pineapple coral, hammer coral, zoos, star polyps,
mushrooms, Alveopora) appear to be doing well. Even the Acropora that
had previously produced the mucous-like threads now appears normal. All
inverts appear unstressed as well.
What should I do about the
Acropora with the tissue necrosis – is there a way to reverse this
spread?
<You likely have>
If the necrotic area
continues to grow, I assume I should frag the coral to save the
remainder – correct?
<An approach. I would move this colony to
another system, or even shallow, brightly lit sump first myself>
Do
you think this in contagious (e.g. should I be doing anything to protect
the other corals in my tank)? Unfortunately I do not have a picture to
send yet, but I can follow-up when I return home tonight if needed.
Thank you in advance for your help!!!
--Greg
<I doubt you have a
pathogen at play here. Very likely the bit of trouble you've observed
is/was due to the change n spg... I would not over-react here. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Please Help! -- Mg damage to corals? -
3/1/2006
Bob,
<Greg>
Thank you so much for your
input (or at least putting my mind at ease) -- and for taking the time
to read my email. I will continue to watch this
Acropora, but no
additional skeletal areas appear to be exposed tonight.
<Good>
I
refer all of my fellow reefers to the WWM search for answers to their
questions. You and the WWM crew offer an invaluable service to
aquarists!
--Greg
<We're very glad to share. Bob Fenner>
Give Those Acros Some Breathing Room! (Coral Placement)
2/2/06
Hi!
<Hiya! Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!>
I
just had a quick question regarding SPS coral placement. How far should
most Acropora be placed from each other? I do prune them and make sure
they do not touch each other. Is a distance of 3-4 inches enough?
Thank you so much!
Sheen
<Well, Sheen- everyone has an opinion
on this one, but I would allow almost 6" plus between specimens. I've
done it closer, and trust me- given time and the proper conditions,
they'll still eventually grow into each other! Try at least 6", be
patient, and you'll be rewarded with larger, healthier, and more
colorful corals...Assuming, of course, that you can provide for their
other environmental needs! Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.>
SPS lighting 1/30/06
Crew- <Craig>
Quick
question:
I am planning on putting some SPS about halfway up the
rockwork in a 300 gallon tank (31" high). I am also planning on trying
different lighting
schemes throughout the tank. I would like to
leave some recessed lighting on the ends so that private entreats exist
for more reclusive fish to feel
comfortable. Since I do not want the
whole thing lit up like the midday sun, I am only planning on putting
400 watts of 20K metal halide on the middle
third of the tank (a
length of about 32"). If the SPS are put directly below the fixture
1-2ft deep, would this amount of light likely suffice? Let me know
if this is ill-advised. <Sound be a pleasing effect, no worries my
friend, sounds good.>
Thanks as always, <You're welcome. James
(Salty Dog)>
Craig SPS TURNING YELLOW 01-01-06
Hello I
just bought 2 SPS coral for my 55 gallon reef with 260 watts power
compact ( about 5 watts per gallon) a canister filter, protein
skimmer,2 power heads, and a heater, about 30 lbs live rock, 40
lbs live sand. Now for the fish I have a yellow tang, maroon clown,
mandarin goby, and bullet goby. My corals are a finger leather, yellow
polyps, 2 mushroom rocks, Ricordea, open brain, cabbage coral bubble
coral , 2 SPS on the same rock, and star polyps. My inverts are a
sponge, emerald crab, camel shrimp, coral banded shrimp, t. gigas clam,
bubble tip anemone,6 astray snails, and a large turbo snail. Also I
have a medians hair algae, Chaeto ,needle algae. My water tested
perfect.
<Sounds like a very full tank.>
My new SPS coral that
was a green brown color is now turning yellow. The other day I had to
catch a clown fish and I took down the rock work to catch him. Is this
because stress did I kill it or is it new symbolic algae because
lighting please help I love this coral thanks for the help. Sorry this
letter was so long. Please excuse the mis-spelled words I'm 11 years
old thanks for the help love your web site.
<First, let me thank you
for the compliment. As for your question, you may have three situations
going on. The fist situation could be chemical warfare in your tank. To
remedy this you will need to add carbon to your tank. The carbon will
also clear organics from your water making the lights more useful for
your coral. The second possibility is that you may be witnessing
bleaching. If your coral is bleaching you will need to upgrade your
lighting to keep that coral or remove the coral to a friend's tank until
you can afford to upgrade your lighting. The final situation you may be
witnessing is; the corals may be adjusting to your lights and will
actually color up to a more natural color. This situation is usually
found more in tanks with very high watt lighting and pristine water
conditions. Travis>
New SPS Frags... Long Shipping... What To
Expect? - 12/31/05
Hi all...
<<Hello>>
as has been
stated by many, you have an awesome site, no fluff, all info.
<<Thank you>>
I have read much, but not all of the site, haven't
been able to find an answer.
<<ok>>
I just acquired some Acro
frags 1 yongei and 2 tortuosa (sp.?).
<<Correct>>
Thanks to
shipping problems they were in transit about 40hrs.
<<Uh oh!>>
They arrived white, little or no apparent color, no polyps yet.
<<Expelled their zooxanthellae...or worse...have complete tissue loss.>>
My fears about ammonia in bags and alkalinity of tank water led me to
introduce them to the QT tank after temp adjustment.
<<Smart>>
I'm acclimating lighting using vinyl screen layers.
<<Smart again>>
On intro to QT tank frags had filaments of slime but no other
indications of life.
<<Not unexpected...>>
Don't expect a
miracle here but what if anything should I expect from these frags if
water parameters, lighting and flow are optimal, which I think they
are. At what point should I give up on them in your opinion.
<<Mmm...both species of coral have quite visible polyps, if you don't
see any evidence of these after 48 hrs. I think you can assume the
worst. You might also try viewing the frags under some magnification
(jeweler's loop/magnifying glass) to see if you can determine if there
is any flesh on the skeleton.>>
This is my first of many cracks at
SPS so would like to not overreact.
<<You're not overreacting...40
hours in transit/bleached condition is cause for concern.>>
Steve
<<Regards, EricR>>
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