FAQs on Moving Synthetic
Related Articles: Synthetic or Natural Seawater,
Impressions (Synthetics Review) By Steven Pro,
Alkalinity, Marine Alkalinity
Related FAQs: Seawater 1, Seawater 2, Seawater 3, Seawater 4, Seawater 5, Seawater 6, & FAQs on Mixing, Supplementing, Storing, Physical/Chemical Troubleshooting/Fixing...
By Make/Manufacturer: Natural
Aquarium Systems (Instant Ocean, Reef
Crystals), Aquacraft (Marine
Environments, BioSea...), Central
Garden (Oceanic), Kent Marine
(SeaSalt), Red Sea (Red Sea Salt,
Coral Pro Salt), SeaChem Marine
(Marine Salt, Reef Salt), Energy Savers (Coralife), Tropic Marin, Other Brands... About Buying Pre-mixed Seawater, About Synthetics Manufacturers
Advertising Claims... Spg 1, Treating Tapwater For Marine Aquarium Use,
Don't disturb the
Saltwater Transfer and Reef Lighting --
I enjoy all that your website has to offer and have read many helpful
articles. Fantastic website!
<<Thank you'¦ We are happy to know you find the
collective efforts here of benefit>>
But, after hours of research I am coming up short on a few
Hope you can help.
<<I have my moments [grin]>>
I've got a question on saltwater transfer pumps.
I am trying to transfer saltwater from my Brute trash can in the
basement to my 90 gallon display tank.
I have 12 ft of vertical and 15ft of horizontal piping all in
3/4'' ID vinyl tubing.
<<Mmm'¦ The diameter used, and tendency of this material
to 'collapse' just from the weight of gravity, makes your
project more difficult. I suggest re-plumbing with PVC pipe (the
'flexible variety is fine if you wish, as it will not collapse like
the vinyl tubing) with an inside diameter of 1',
I tried my Rio 3100 submersible pump which will get it upstairs but
will only trickle into my sump.
<<Indeed'¦ These pumps don't handle head-pressure
well at all>>
Are there any pumps or methods that you could recommend to get my
pre-made water up to my tank so I don't have to carry buckets?
<<Yep'¦ I use two very similar systems to transport both
pre-made saltwater to my display, as well as filtered freshwater to my
top-off reservoir. I have a vertical lift of about 10' with a
horizontal run of about 25' and use Mag-Drive 18 submersible pumps
plumbed to 1' flexible PVC. This make/size pump works very well for
me and one would probably serve your situation too, especially if you
upgrade the plumbing. I would also very strongly suggest you install a
contact-switch to operate the pump at the point where the water
terminates. This is a simple spring-loaded push-button switch that must
be 'pressed and held' to operate the pump. This is a bit of
extra electrical work (extending and routing the pump cord along the
plumbing route), but doing so is the absolute best way to NOT flood
your floor with this 'automated' water transport system.
Installing such a switch means you have to stand and watch the
vessel/tank fill while pressing the button and activating the pump.
Once the desired amount of water is transferred, you release the button
and the pumps 'stops.' This also happens should the phone ring,
someone knocks at the door, or some other distraction occurs, and you
walk away'¦get the picture?>>
Also while I'm asking, I have a problem with lighting. My tank is
made out of acrylic and the tank hood measures 47 1/2'' wide
which makes finding a suitable light to fit very difficult. To make
matters worse my hood is about 6"deep.
<<Mmm, yes'¦not easy to work with aside from maybe a DIY
I like the looks of my oak top and would like to keep it in addition to
reef lighting. I am currently using a cheap 2 lamp 36" Coralife
fixture until I find an upgrade. I would like to try fluorescent
lighting due to heat and space confinements.
<<Fluorescents get hot too, especially high-output
units'¦you will still need adequate ventilation>>
I am very new to reef keeping and would be happy to have an anemone for
my clowns as well as some very beginner corals.
<<Do research WWM re our cautions and reservations with such
systems (water quality issues, mixing sessile and motile inverts,
The tank measurements are 48"x18"x24" but like I said
the hood only allows a 47 1/2" work space.
Any Info would be a huge help.
<<Do check out online the available 'retro-fit' T-5 HO
lighting gear available. You should be able to find something you can
Thanks in advance,
<<Happy to share'¦ Eric Russell>>
Re: Saltwater Transfer and Reef Lighting --
Thanks for all the helpful info.
I'm taking your advice on the Mag 18 pump, piping, and
<<Excellent'¦ You will find the Mag-Drive pump to be a
big improvement over the Rio unit>>
I'm glad you shared your experience on how to transfer
<<Was my pleasure>>
I'm sure it will prove to be a real money/time saver.
<<Ah yes! I do 50g water changes at a time and have even
semi-automated draining of the display (I turn a valve and the water
drains to the sewer system)'¦hauling buckets to drain and
refill was not a long-term option [grin]>>
As far as the lighting is concerned, I think I will try a 36"
6-lamp T5 HO fixture made by Current, the Nova Extreme Pro.
<<Okay'¦should serve fine>>
I have an open back on my aquarium top combined with the fans on the
fixture and maybe some additional fans should keep it cool enough (I
I will do more research on your site before putting in corals.
Once again, thanks for taking time to assist me in my reef
<<Any time my friend'¦ Eric Russell>>
Filling a new 150 gallon tank with RO water--what pump
should I use? 10/15/09
I'm hoping you guys can help me out.
<I often wonder that myself>
I'm getting ready to fill my 150 gallon tank and I'm not sure
how to get the water in it!
<Easy .. you pour the water in through the top! .. oh wait ...
there's more ... lemme read ....>
My situation is this: I have an RO/DI unit mounted on the wall in my
laundry room, which is run off the washing machine. I'm planning on
filling two Brute trash cans that are stored in the laundry room with
the RO/DI water, and since the cans are on wheels, rolling them into
the living room where my tank is located.
<OK. Stop right there. Those trash cans are strong, but they're
designed for trash. 40 gallons of salt water weighs more than 350
pounds -- and the wheels and axles of those trash cans aren't
designed for anywhere NEAR that weight. In other words, Shannon, once
you fill those suckers with water and make your mix, think of them like
concrete pillars -- not going anywhere until close to empty.>
<Now, as it turns out, this is a good thing(tm) because water in any
container sloshes as it's moved ... and the more it's moved,
the bigger the waves get. More to the point, once salt water starts to
sloshing, it finds a way to escape from it's container ... ANY
container ... although this does not sound possible, trust me when I
tell that once salt water is spilt, it will FIND the most valuable or
most easily damaged thing in the room and saturate it. Most old timers
will tell you stories of a spilled gallon of salt water that went UP a
set of stairs, picked the lock of a door and saturated some memorable
keepsake of some family member. Don't try to move the container and
you and your entire family will thank us later!>
I'm not sure what the best way to pump the water from the Brute
trash cans up into the tank would be.
<After your mix is made and aerated, aged (at least a day, 2 is
probably better), heated and pH balanced ...>
Would I use some type of submersible pump?
If so, what kind would you recommend?
<The brand isn't that important, Shannon. 1) It needs to be
submersible 2) that it be magnetic drive 3) It needs to have enough
lifting capacity to pump from the bottom of the trash can to the top of
the aquarium. This distance is known as "Head" and it's
measured typically in feet. My suggestion is that you pick a pump that
is at least 2-3 feet higher that your maximum distance.>
<Here's what I do, Shannon: I have a pump that is rated
approximately 120 Gallons per hour - a relatively small pump. I have a
roll of 1/2 inch ID (Inside Diameter) vinyl tubing from my local
building supply store that is long enough to reach and at the
"tank" end, I run the tubing into a 1/2 plastic ball valve
(from the same building supply store & they'll have plastic
thread to barb fittings & clamps to construct this, as well) and
then out of the valve and into a piece of "U" shaped tubing
(from an old canister filter) to hang over the lip of the tank.>
<Water changes are easy: close the valve, hang the tubing into the
tank, run the other end to a drain, open the valve, start a suction and
go watch TV. I have the INSIDE length of the U tube cut right at 10% so
when I start the drain, it runs dry at 10% of my tank volume. Once it
runs dry, I take the open end of the tube, attach it to the out let of
the pump, drop the pump into the vat of new water and plug it
<Now this is an important part: Because I use only 1/2 inch tubing
and fairly weak pump .. the water flow back IN takes about 15 minutes
which is a nice, slow addition of the new water. When I reach the
desired level, I just close the valve at the tank, which gives me
plenty of time to get to the reserve water tank and turn everything
<My last step is to run some hot, fresh water into a bucket and drop
the pump and both ends of the tubing into it and turn it on. The fresh
water circulates and cleans everything AND it makes the vinyl tubing
extremely flexible .. so when I'm rolling it up, it's easier to
roll up without kinks. But that's just me.>
Any help on this matter will be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
<Yer welcome afterwards!>
Old Bridge, NJ
Re: Filling a new 150 gallon tank with RO water--what pump
should I use? 10/17/09
Thanks so much for the info! You guys are THE BEST help as always!
<Yes we are! Go Team!>
One thing I definitely have enough of are ball valves and vinyl
This will give me a project for the weekend.
Water Change Tactics, SW 7/7/08 I have not been able to
find out much about this, maybe I'm not searching correctly. What
is the fastest way to do a water change? I have a tall 300 gallon tank,
and draining is the easy part. <Heee!> To replace the water, I
climb up a stepladder with a five gallon plastic bottle containing
water from Rubbermaid trash cans that have the salt mix. Difficult and
messy. Is there an easier way? <Sure there is, a few. Perhaps the
easiest in my opinion (my method) is to get a dedicated hose ( a garden
hose with the ends cut off to fit hose barbs is cheap) and small,
large, whatever you want pump. A ball valve on the aquarium end will
let you control the flow. Put the pump in your mixing tank, run to the
display tank and filler up. If running a hose through your house is not
practical or appealing, the same can be done out of each individual 5
gal. next to the tank. It sounds like a pain, but after a while it is
nice to just set the bucket next to the tank and pump it in rather than
lifting bucket after bucket. There are a few, albeit pricey,
automated/semi automated water change systems out there. I just
don't trust automation to this extent!> Anything you can tell me
will greatly appreciated! <I hope this helps out, Scott V.>
Re: Water Change Tactics 7/10/08 Thanks for the info, Scott.
If that garden hose idea works out, I owe you one! Terri <Very
welcome. One of the key overlooked components to water changes is
making them as easy as possible. This way water changes are more likely
to happen routinely. I hope this works out for you, Scott V.>
Moving useful aquarium water in volume -
01/09/2006 Hey Bob, How's it goin? Hope all is well.
<Yes, fine my friend. Returning today from Dizzyworld, the marathon
here> I was wondering if you had any info on where to get large
water transporting containers, like those big plastic 50gal drums.
<Mmm, we used to buy these spiffy polyethylene drums from a soda pop
syrup/distributor in San Diego... I would call/contact one of these
"bottlers" in your area... likely to be cheap/er, easy to
clean...> I am picking up a 135gallon reef tank that
some guy is tired of and want to move a lot of the old tank water
too. I am stressed about the move and have been reading over
our tank moving FAQs, but a free system is too good to pass
up. here are some pics if you are curious. <Mmm, a few
thicknesses of trashcan bags can/will do to line sturdy/dirty trash
Thanks, Gage <Ahh, back