R/O storage trace nitrites  12/30/2005
Great work on the website!
<Thank you>
I have a new dedicated trashcan and Kent Marine R/O D/I Maximma 50GPD.  I am already finding trace amounts of nitrite in my brand new clean Rubbermaid trashcan.
<Unusual... I would give this can/container a good scrubbing with coarse salt and a brush (new) followed by rinsing, soaking with freshwater>
I have tested the R/O drip which is perfectly clean, but when my trashcan is full I am finding slightly detectable levels of nitrite after about 15 hours.  Any cleaning advice on the Rubbermaid or is the SUPER CLEAN D/I water causing it to grow bacteria so quickly I cannot stop it?
Thanks!!!!
Bryan
<Am at a loss here. I would contact the folks at Rubbermaid for their input... and scrub the container as mentioned. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Heating The Make-up Water...How? - 01/11/06
Good Morning,
<<Good evening>>
First I would like to say thanks for your devotion to teaching people like myself.
<<You're welcome...but not so much teaching as sharing...hoping to make a difference...>>
I recently purchased an RO/DI system. (Got tired of hauling jugs back and forth from the LFS
<<I would too.>>
and wasn't so trusting with their RO water.
<<Hmm...>>
I purchased a 6 stage system.  (I know this may be overkill but I got a good deal on the net.)
<<Tis fine>>
My space is limited so I opted for a Rubbermaid 23 gallon
rectangular (restaurant style) trash can as a reservoir.  I dumped the first batch and am now ready to start mixing my own water.  I will use a Rubbermaid 18 gallon tub to mix my salt in. (I apologize for making this a bit long, just wanted to paint a clear picture for you.)
<<No worries mate, the "detail" is a good thing.>>
From what I have read, I should aerate my water for 6 hours or so
<<I prefer aeration for 24 hrs. prior to use to expel all carbon dioxide/allow pH to stabilize.>>
and get it to 80 degrees before adding salt.
<<Match the temperature in your tank.>>
Is this correct?
<<See above>>
Here comes my dilemma.  Do you have an idea of how I could heat my water?
<<Um, sure...use an aquarium heater.>>
I considered adding a 200 watt heater to the mixing container, but am afraid the heater will burn a hole in the plastic.
<<Small concern (if any at all).  I've been doing just this for decades...haven't burned a hole through any of my water containers yet <grin>.  As long as the heater stays submerged/there is water in the container it shouldn't get hot enough to melt through.>>
Should I make a baffle type piece to mount the heater on?
<<Can...is up to you.>>
I am open for suggestions here.
<<Of little/no concern really.  Just drop the heater in to the container or fashion a method to keep it off the bottom...your choice...whichever makes you feel better.  Do be sure to keep the heater submerged at all times.>>
I have so many ideas running through my head now with other projects. (auto top off systems, sumps, etc...)  I guess I would just like to hear how someone else has accomplished this.  Thanks for taking the time to help another obsessed aquarium keeper.
Steve
<<No problem Steve.  regards, EricR>>

-Storing premixed saltwater-
I have a 55 gallon saltwater tank with 60 lbs of live rock, a few
fish, SPS corals, anemones and many inverts. I make my own saltwater using distilled water <Be wary of distilled water unless you are absolutely sure it hasn't come in contact with any metals (especially copper) during the distilling process.> and keep it in a 18 gallon tank in my garage with crushed coral and a aqua clear 500 filter. I use the foam filter inside the filter and add a little carbon every other month to keep the water crystal clear. My question is: Should I keep the crushed coral in the 18 gallon tank or should I remove it and use only a bare aquarium to keep my premixed saltwater? <You don't really need anything in the barrel besides the filter and maybe an airstone> Should I take the crushed coral out and add a few lbs of live rock? <I wouldn't, because you will have to feed it, the critters will produce waste, etc.> What is the best way to store  the premixed saltwater so I can use it for quick and easy water changes? <Keep it well circulated and aerated if possible. Good luck! -Kevin> Thank you!
Donovan

SALTWATER STORAGE
>Hi,
>>Greetings.
>I have just started to store pre-mixed salt water.  I have a Rubbermaid trash can ( 20 gallon, didn't have room for a larger one).  I add the water and let my pump aerate it for 24 hours.  Then I add my salt.  How long should I aerate it then?  
>>Keep the water in movement (either through powerhead or air stone) as long as it's being stored.
>I have heard that aerating too long after adding salt can cause some important elements to escape; but I have also heard that water must be continually aerated to keep it from stagnating.  
>>The only elements you'll lose are the salt itself from salt creep (if using an air stone).
>My container is in the house so it stays cool.  Should I cover the can to keep it totally dark?  
>>Best practice, my friend.  Keeps bad things out, eliminates evaporation.  Do be sure to bring the water to proper temperature before using.
>How long will the water stay good in the container?  The water will last me for 3 weekly water changes.   Will the water stay good that long? (3 weeks)?
>>Easily.  If we were looking for months, then I'd be more inclined to treat it as I would fresh potable water, and in that situation I would lightly chlorinate and have Sodium thiosulfate on hand for dechlorination if used before dissipation.  In other words, keep it covered and circulated, and you'll be golden.
>Thank you for your help, James
>>Most welcome.  Marina

WATER CHANGES AND STORAGE
Hi, Hope things are going well there.  I have a couple of questions for you please.  First, After purchasing a plastic container to store sea water in for water changes, how should it be cleaned before use?  With salt?
<Yes to cleaning... with rock salt, water and a clean "scrubby", then a good freshwater rinsing>
Also I know the container should be covered most of the time to prevent contaminants, but I have heard as mixed sea water "cures" it releases certain compounds into the air.  Shouldn't the lid be left off sometimes to let these escape?
<A loose fitting top (which almost all are) is best, adding a recirculating pump or powerhead is a bonus for stirring as well as warming, aiding you in pumping the water out>
And lastly, I use a piece of plastic tubing to draw out old water before making a water change.  Would having the end of it directly on the substrate help get out more organics.
Don't they usually accumulate closer to the bottom of the water column?
<Yes... do look into "store-bought" gravel vacuums here. Many are well made for this purpose>
As always, thanks for your good help.  James
James Hall
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: WATER CHANGES AND STORAGE
Would the sea salt work to clean?
<Of a certainty, yes. Just more expensive than plain "rock salt" for the job. Bob Fenner>

- Storing Synthetic Seawater - Same question posed thrice, answered by Kevin here
Hi, I am currently pre-mixing my salt water in a Rubbermaid container for future water changes.  After aerating for 24 hours I add the salt. How long do I aerate after salt is added? <Until you use it> 
I have heard not long due to loss of carbonates and I have also heard to continually aerate as long as the water is in storage. 
<I'd either run a small powerhead inside or keep on aerating. It should be fine to use for weeks.> 
My water storage lasts me for 3 weeks of water changes. 
<Sounds good, Good luck! -Kevin> 
Thank you, James

Saltwater too Salty - 8/28/03
Dear WWM Crewperson:
I just made 32 gallons of saltwater for my storage batch, and I made it a bit strong, around 1.030.  I would rather not dump some out and add fresh water.  Can I add some of my top-off water to my water change bucket at the time of a 2-4 gallon change in order to bring it down to 1.025?  Thanks,
Rich
<Yes you can. Should be no problem. Bob Fenner>

Can I Still Use This Saltwater? 
>Hi Crew, 
>>Hello questioner. 
>I'm back again with another 'newbie' question. (didn't have much look with the chat room, and haven't found anything in my shiny new copy of CMA). 
>>Didn't have much look, or luck? In any event... 
>Sixteen days ago I mixed 20 gallons of RO with Instant Ocean mix to 1.023 sg in a very clean plastic trash can. I didn't need it then as I thought I would, and it's been in the covered can in my garage (75-90F) since then. I planned to use it for a water change today and found a thin white "dusty" film of solids on the surface when I uncovered it. Substance doesn't seem to want to re-dissolve easily with stirring. pH still tests good at 8.0 and s.g. is only slightly over 1.023 (can be corrected I'm sure). 
>>Yes it can. 
>Is the water safe? 
>>I don't see why not, if it doesn't smell bad. However, AERATE it for at least 24 hours before using, it could have a very low degree of dissolved oxygen at this point. 
>More tests? 
>>O2 saturation, or aerate. 
>What's the white stuff? 
>>Not knowing where you are, and being in southern California, my mind is on ash fall. I would take some paper towels and skim them across the surface to remove this stuff. If it goes with them, great, if not, then I might hook up a small power filter. 
>I need to do a water change, but I'm scared of it. Should I be? 
>>BOO! (Sorry, and here I'm just sick of Halloween..) 
>Thanks for the great work you guys/gals do. Randy C. 
>>Just be prudent and cautious, remember that the high temperatures will lower the O2, if everything else checks out ok, then don't worry too much. But do remove the film, I'd feel better if you did, and I like to visualize a grown man standing over a can of water passing paper towels over it, makes me smile. Marina

- Storing Saltwater -
I mixed about 25 gal of saltwater (Reef Crystals) in a large Rubbermaid trash can for storage.  The water was filtered thought the Aquarium Pharm. tap water filter.  I also used a fairly powerful powerhead to dissolve the salt, but no heater.  It is in my garage which can get down into the 50's at night.  After a few days I achieved the correct specific gravity.  However, about 10 days later, it looks like part of the salt precipitated out of the water and is clinging to the sides and the bottom of the trash can as well as the powerhead. <More likely that this is the calcium.> It comes off easily if I rub it.  Is this due to the temperature drop? <I don't think so - solution was likely saturated.> The specific gravity has dropped from 1.026 to 1.023. <Fascinating - I wouldn't have predicted that unless your original reading was wrong... air bubble on the swing arm or something. Typically even salt water in storage will get saltier as water evaporates and salt does not.>
Thanks,
Randy
<Cheers, J -- >

- Water Storage -
Hello crew! Got one for you I will try to be brief. I have 2-45 gallon Brute trash cans for my water. I plan on having my RO/DI connected to these. Can I tie both cans together at bottom via bulkhead and a ball valve between them? <I don't see why not.> And if I install a float switch in the first can will both cans keep at the same water height without the second one overflowing? <I'm not sure that it will work... but it may. Would be something to experiment with.>
Many thanks.. again
<Cheers, J -- >

- Mix Water Storage -
Hi,
Now that I am tired of mixing water every week I decided to set up a 35gal garbage bin with pre-mixed salt water. I filled it up, dechlorinated it, mixed in salt then put in a heater and a 300gph powerhead with a working air venturi. (Note: Our tap water is great here, all the aquarium stores use it with no problems.)
My questions are, is there a shelf life for that water? <Well... as long as the water is well circulated and aerated, it will last a pretty long time - not years, but several months.> I only have a 33 & 10 gal tank and change a total of 7 gallons per week of water. So, this will last me about a month. <Perfect.> I leave the heater and powerhead on all the time.
Also, do I need to leave the heater and powerhead on all the time or just run a couple of days before the water changes? <I'd leave the powerhead on 24/7 and heat only before it's time to use the water.>
Thanks in advance.
Darrin
<Cheers, J -- >

- Storing Water and More -
Crew, good morning.  Great site as usual...
I had a few questions about a storage system for fresh and saltwater.  I plan on having two 44 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trash cans for water storage. <Ok.> One for fresh, one for salt. <Sounds good.> I will have a poly filter supplying the trash cans. <Ok.>
Do I keep the lids on them all the time? <I would... keeps the bugs and dust out... perhaps a small hole so you can get electrical cords in and out.>
Do I keep an airstone in each working at all times? <I'd use a pump to make sure the entire barrel is being turned over. An airstone would be extra but would do no harm.>
Do I keep a pump moving the water at all times or only when I plan on adding salt? <I try to keep barrels full of water moving all the time.>
Somebody in your crew wrote that it would be good to use a Mag Drive 500 pump.  Is this pump too much movement and do you keep it on at all times? <Actually... I think I have a Mag 7 in my water garbage can right now.> If it is too much, what would you recommend? <MaxiJet 1200 would do.>  
Should I have one pump for each trash can? <Yes... would be cheaper to go with the Maxijets.>
I plan on having these storage cans in the garage and I want to install PVC up about 10 feet, over about 6 feet and back down 10 feet into my sump in the living room.  I was thinking about an Ampmaster or Iwaki pump (unsure what size).  I will have a hardwired switch in the living room to manually turn on and off the pump to bring in top off water/salt water.  Do you see any problems/suggestions with this idea? <I think that would work... perhaps with some kind of secondary shutoff near the tank in case the switch stops working. You just can't be too careful with this stuff.> I don't really understand all the pumping problems.  
Sorry for all the lame questions, but I am just starting and I want to get it right before I buy. <Not lame questions at all.>  
Thanks for all your hard work and time spent.  
Dan
<Cheers, J -- >

Cigarette in my mixing water!
Sorry for bothering you again, Blundell (or whoever is on duty for the day). << Blundell again. >> I have been preparing my saltwater in a 32 gallon Rubbermaid tub with a small powerhead for circulation.  As I was fiddling with my old tank, the cigarette (new and never lit) resting behind my ear fell into my Rubbermaid tub with the saltwater! << Doh >>
I saw it fall in and quickly grabbed it out (so it was probably in contact w/ the water for maybe a second or two).  Have I contaminated my water and must I now throw away all that salt and preparation time put into it?  Thank you again!
<< No, I wouldn't worry about.  Personally, something that small wouldn't bother me.  I'd be more worried about the chemicals that were used to make that Rubbermaid than the cig that fell in. >>
-Dennis
<< No worries, Blundell >> <... dismal... RMF would NOT use this water... Nicotine and many other tobacco ingredients/matters are too likely to be too-a-degree toxic here>

Storing & Mixing Water (8/8/04)
Hello again! <Greetings. Steve Allen here.>
Three quick questions...
I need to get a container to pre-mix for water changes. In one post, Bob says, "Get/use a chemically inert, clean 'trash can'..."  In an article, I think he specifies "Rubbermaid" brand.  Of course, I will buy new and dedicate to the task, but how do I know if they are safe (chemically inert)? <Anything recommended for food should be fine. I'd expect most brands of plastic ones to be fine.> Is any Rubber-maid OK?  Other brands?  I would like to get a wheeled tote about 35 gallon or so.  The Rubber-maid with wheels has metal reinforcements for the handles on the inside of the can. I looked at another brand that didn't (Dura-bin? I think) that was brown plastic and square. Recommendations? <The Rubbermaid Brute has served me well. The one I have has no metal parts. I put mine on wheels for ease of use.>
  Will my old Mag 5 pump work in place of a powerhead to mix the solution? <Just set it up so it does not spurt water up and out of the container. I use a hose to pump straight from the can into my tank in the next room.>
  I don't know how hot heaters get on the surface. Can they melt the plastic garbage cans if they come in contact with it, or should they be rigged away from the sides? <Unlikely to get that hot when in water. However, I use the plastic sheath that one can buy for specific brands of heater. I use a Hagen Tronic and the sheath they sell for it.> If the latter, how do you do it?  Ooops, that was more than 3 questions, wasn't it? <No problem.> Thanks! Greg Smith <Hope this helps.>

Water storage
Happy New Year to Bob & crew!
<Good morning>
I recently got 2 blue plastic 55 gal. barrels for use as water storage containers.  Allegedly used for wine transport by a local winery. Intent is/was 1 for SW mix, 1 for R.O. water.  I have washed them out twice with hot water & chlorine bleach, de-chlorinated with Aquatronics "De-Chlor", & rinsed twice.  I still end up with a thin film (scum) on the surface  when I fill with R.O. water.  The distributor said they were just "steamed" out, but since they are a large barrel recycler, I don't know if they used any kind of cleaning agent, soap or ???  In your opinion, am I taking an un-necessary chance with these barrels?  Would running a canister filter with carbon help to remove any potential contamination?
<I am suspicious too... and would not use these tubs just yet. Are they polyethylene? If so, they may have to be "cured" over some time to remove whatever the residue is. For now, try scrubbing them out with rock salt, a little water and a tough sponge... and let very salty water sit in them a week or more... drain, rinse, see if the scum is gone. If not, we'll talk over what you might do next. Bob Fenner>
Thanks, Neil

Mixing/Storing Saltwater
I have a question about keeping saltwater for water changes and for make-up. I want to pre mix salt water in a plastic 30 gallon container, if I keep an airstone in the water how long can the water stay fresh or does it go bad?
<Well, I don't think that it will necessarily "go bad" after a certain time, but evaporation may occur, resulting in a higher specific gravity. Perhaps there may be some dissipation of compounds found in the water over time, but probably not in amounts substantial enough to impact its usefulness, IMO. I generally mix up water just before I use it (i.e; a couple of days).>
I have tried this and noticed  a odor  from the container. Does this mean that the pre made water has gone bad?
<Maybe it has not "gone bad", but there might be something in the container dissolving into the water, or perhaps the container did not completely dry out after its initial use, and you are smelling mildew or something...? If you smell a sulfurous smell, then there may have been some anaerobic activity occurring in the container when it was "empty", and you're just smelling the end result. Hard to be sure from here.>
If you have any suggestions I would appreciate any tips. Thank you. HAPPY HOLIDAYS !! Sergio.
<Well, Sergio, as outlined above, I'd make up the water as I need it, and clean out and dry the container after each use. I'm sure that you'll be fine. Good luck to you, and Happy Holidays to you, too! Regards, Scott F>

Water Storage Question
I am trying to line up everything for my new tank. I am setting up a 180 gal. reef ready but FOWLR for starters.
<Nice size>
My question is in regards to storing water for my water changes. A friend of mine was able to get me a 55 gallon plastic drum that was used to store honey. (His friend works at a big cracker factory).
<Yummy>
Would it be ok for me to was h this out with hot water and use it for water changes?
<Should be, yes>
I will have to cut a hole
i n the top about 6-8 ” in circumference in order to put in the salt, heater, and a pump. If this is ok how long can store the water?
<Indefinitely>
I plan on getting two of these drums and always have one ready for action.
<Good idea>
Thanks in advance for the info!
<Please see here for more: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
and the FAQs (linked, in blue, at top) beyond. Bob Fenner>
Dave

How to tell if a plastic is toxic?
I went today to Home Depot trying to get a plastic bin for a) making and aging salt water b) using it as treatment tank for sick fish and also for quarantining new fish. I've heard there are some plastic that can be very toxic to fish, even if just used to mix the water and salt (brief period) but none of the buckets and bins were labels as water/food safe or gave any other indication. How can one tell which plastic is good and which is the bad one? thank you, Luke
<contact the manufacturer or be conservative and simply avoid any that do not say food-safe, my friend. There are so many plastics available and most nearly every one is safe. Anthony>

Planning Large Reef w/Water Reserve
Hello Bob,
I am now in the concept stages of planning my dream reef tank to coincide with the purchase of a new home 18-24 months from now. 
<Ahh, good to plan, anticipate>
It will be an in-wall ~1100 g 12'x4'x3' tank with LR/LS optimized for SPS corals, 2 mixed shoals of Anthias and some other hard to keep, but compatible, favorites on my list.
<Wow, some system!>
I read through the large-tank/designer-tank/circulation/plumbing/mud FAQs and still have some questions. I ask these questions, because I would rather spend the money once going REAL SLOW and be happy with the results.
<We are in agreement with this approach, philosophy>
I received a burst of inspiration to add a very large water reserve to my tank plans. It came from an UK-based hobbyist magazine article on a 2300 g water reserve attached to a 1200 g tank with 300 fish and "wall to wall" corals. This at-home system had lots of attached commercial equipment, but it gave me ideas for 2000-2400 g of extra water. First of all, are you familiar with any similar setup in the USA or the article I am referring to? 
<Think I saw the article in a recent PFK issue, and yes... many folks have sizable reservoir, water storage facilities>
What is your opinion on the large water reserve concept? 
<A good one. My memorialized opinions re can be found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm>
With respect to gas exchange, should the large water reserve be a open top container or would an buried water tank serve the same purpose if the main aquarium had adequate circulation installed? I would also like your definition "adequate" as I could not find a similarly configured system in the FAQs.
<Should be recirculated, heated... best to use an external pump, pump from bottom, discharge at surface in such a size, type arrangement.>
I am leaning heavily towards EcoSystem Filtration (with light skimming as you recommend) with two 200 g mud sumps for redundancy, increased bioload potential, and room to hold water in case of power failure. After the tank is well established with critters, I plan to add a mated pair of Mandarin fishes. With Leng's system, would an additional refugium be beneficial to the Mandarins? 
<Yes>
If so, would you recommend a sand bed to complement the mud for added critter diversity, or would a 3rd mud-sump/refugium be the better approach? 
<Sand>
In preparing for the Anthias and Mandarins, would it be wise to start the refugium a year prior to the large tank?
<Not so much time, but a good month or two>
Finally, I was considering using an actuated ball valve to control water flow on two alternating pathways on a closed circulation loop from a pressure rated pump. The loop would feed a PVC structure hidden behind the rock work. This would be in addition to 4 Sea-Swirls used as returns from the sumps from a non-pressure rated pump. I have two thoughts here. First and foremost is redundancy in the circulation plans in case one pump fails. The second is having the top 8"-12" of the tank as an open water column with chaotic water flow for the Anthias, some carefully selected Surgeonfish, and some Green Chromis dithering about to keep everyone at peace. What are your thoughts on actuated ball valves used for alternating circulation loops?
<Generally unnecessary... better/fine to have all the water pressure, flow discharge in a chaotic fashion w/o the expense, restriction of valving. Try the set-up w/o the valves first and see if you still consider them useful is my suggestion.>
Would you consider the Sea-Swirls overkill? Am I missing something here (including simplicity)?
<Other circulation is worthwhile>
As a side note, I am returning to the hobby after 12 years. After reading about 8 or 9 books on the hobby last year, I must confess that I enjoyed the CMA the most. I truly appreciate your ongoing efforts on WWM and the efforts of your colleagues in establishing a treasure chest of information!
<Ahh, thank you for your kind, encouraging words. Will share. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your help.- Rob

How Long Can You Keep New Saltwater Around?
Good morning,
Me again and so far so good with my tank.....feeding as advised and I think that all is well for the time being. My question....I had quite a bit of salt water left when I was curing my rock....about 25 gallons or so.....when I thought that a major water change did not seem likely I put the plastic garbage can with a tight cover in my basement (around 40 degrees) I have it set up so that I can run some air in it and put the heater in it before water changes.....but....right now it is off.....I knew I wouldn't be doing a change for a while as the tank was still showing a bit of nitrite and I wanted to leave well enough alone.....I think it is now time to start my weekly changes. How long will that water be OK?
<As long as you keep it covered, it should be ok for awhile. The only consideration is for evaporation elevating the salinity.>
If I just plug in my pump and heater for a few days should it be OK or does it ever rot.......I can mix up some new stuff but I hate to throw that old water away...It's been in the basement for almost 3 weeks.....
Thank you and have a great day...Helene
<Double check the salinity, heat to appropriate temperature, and aerate well to reach peak dissolved oxygen and you should be just fine. -Steven Pro>

Salt water storage
Hi everyone-
I was hoping you folks could help me. I keep a 40 gallon dark blue Rubbermaid tub with my premixed saltwater and have a heater and a 120 gph powerhead in there. I always keep the lid on it.
<All sound practices.>
This batch has been sitting about a week or so. I took the top off and I have some sort of black looking algae starting to grow on the sides in the current. I tested the water for phosphates and nitrates. Phosphates were nil but the nitrates were around 25ppm or a bit more. It also smells a bit "beachy".
<Ok>
I run the tap water through a filter that filters out pesticides, chlorine, sediment, some metals and VOC's and some other stuff.
<Is this an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tapwater Purifier? Your description of what it filters sounds just like the wording off of the side of the box. If it is one, you should not have any nitrates. The TWP should have taken care of it all, unless the cartridge was exhausted. Double check for the color change.>
I have tested the tap water before and have had no nitrates or phosphates. My question is, is there something in my storage process that could create the nitrates?
<No>
I would hate to throw out 40 gallons of mixed water. Is there any way I can remove the nitrates?
<Yes and no. Nothing practical. If the cartridge was bad and it allowed nitrates to go through, there are other contaminants present that you cannot test for. You will have to discard the water if I am correct with my guess.>
I just started doing the water storage routine a month or so ago. I had been mixing the water and adding a dechlorinator/chloramine and letting it sit for just a day. Since I have started this water storage routine I have had a major explosion of red algae. Is there any way these two things could be related?
<Possibly related, although it could have been something that was warming up and happened anyway after switching to the storage routine.>
The filter for the tap water is also new.
<I would double check the cartridge anyway. I had one of these years ago and I never was able to make more than 40 gallons of clean water before I had to replace the cartridge.>
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, den
<Talk to you later. -Steven Pro>

Re: Saltwater Storage
Steve-
Thanks for the quick reply about the stored water problems. It is not a Aquarium Pharmaceuticals filter. It is a double canister under sink filter, the description of each canister is below. The filters should still have months of life left. I have only ran a few hundred gallons thru.
Filter 1....This cartridge is utilized as a Stage 1- Pre-Filter in our Twin Ultimate Water Filters. Combining the highly adsorptive efficiency of an extruded Carbon block with several layers of sediment prefiltration (5 microns) to effectively reduce Volatile Organic Compounds, Chloroform, Chlorine, THM's and other pollutants. It also increases the overall life and effectiveness of the Stage 2 - Doulton Ultracarb Filter Element. Typically lasts for a full year, about 2,500 gallons.
<Sounds fine.> 
Filter 2....Combining KDF, a compound of Copper and Zinc,
<Oh... I don't like the sound of that.>
and Granulated Activated Carbon this filter acts as the Stage-1 filter in our Undercounter Twin Superior Water Filter. Works especially well on Chlorine, Iron, Sulfur, Lead, heavy metals and many organic contaminants (VOC's) including pesticides, herbicides and trihalomethanes by using reduction-oxidation techniques combined with the adsorptive nature of activated carbon. Lasts for about 2500 gallons.
Could the copper and zinc compound in filter two cause a problem in the tank?
<Yes, could give you problems. Anthony and I were just discussing the usage of zinc orthophosphate in our local tapwater and how one of our big local freshwater fish breeders has experienced a rash of congenital defects from its introduction. His gentleman is going to RO water for many of his tanks and still has some problems. Both Anthony and I suggested he use RO/DI and have his product water tested for contaminants. I would be very leery of this product. You will probably notice problems with your inverts first.>
If a filter filters out chlorine would it filter out chloramine also?
<I am not sure.>
I ask because chloramine is not mentioned in the list.
<Yes, conspicuously absent?>
I have had unexplained (to me) deaths of 2 cleaner shrimp, 1 sea anemone, and several hermit crabs in the past month. It seems like the blue leg crabs are dying but the red are fine. Don't know why. Any thoughts on that?
<It could be the water. It could also be many other things. There is not enough information at this point.>
The fish (Naso Tang, Sailfin Tang, Yellow Tang, Regal Blue Tang, and Damsel) have all been doing great. I always match change water as best I can. I am in the process of upgrading into a 125 gallon tank and I was hoping I could clear up this problem before the move into the new tank a month from now.
<I would strongly suggest a RO unit. Take a look at the SpectraPure line. That is what I sell.>
If I am mixing and storing the water for a week do I need to filter it at all?
<I prefer to use purified water whenever possible and I recommend it most times.>
We are on Atlanta city water. Not the greatest but good.
<I have been there a few times. My sister-in-law and her family live in Kennesaw. There was a very nice store in Buckhead, can't remember the name. My sister-in-law's water seemed ok there, but the one local tank I saw used RO water. He had extreme hair algae problems when he was using city water.>
Thanks again, Den
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Saltwater Storage
I'm in the process of setting up a 125 gallon FOWLR system. I have been doing a lot of reading about mixing salt water, but still have a question. I'm using a 44 gallon garbage can with RO water, a power head, and a heater to premix my water. I let the water in the garbage can heat up to tank temperature, then add salt mix and stir with powerhead. My question is, after I mix the salt water to the right salinity can I store the container without the powerhead and heater?
<Without the heater would be ok, but leave the powerhead to keep the water from stagnating.>
and if so for how long?
<A week or so>
Thanks in advance, Mike
<Please remember that you will have to reheat to the appropriate temperature before use. -Steven Pro>

Pre-mixing and storing water
Hi Bob,
In your WaterChgFAQs (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/waterchg.htm), you mentioned that you have a detailed approach to pre-mixing and storing water at the www.wetwebmedia.com site. I have been looking around on this site, but I could not find it. Could you point me in the right direction?
Thank you, Jim
PS: The search feature of www.wetwebmedia.com was not working either. It returned a "Error from search: can't open the word hash file
D:\wetwebmedia\web\_vti_txt\default.wti\All.dct" error.
<Jim, thanks for these notes... believe me, do appreciate them. Though I'd much rather be sorting, identifying, scanning and placing my latest photographic efforts from Australia (some fun now!) on the WWM site, sending cover submissions off to mag. editors, the photo bank... Even eating Lima beans... do know that there is much, too much amiss on the site currently (and feverish need to add a few hundred already written pieces on the industry, surveys of groups, adventure/dive travel), let alone strategic trials at adding video, slide shows, chat rooms...
Be all this whining as it is, did try to look/find the "detailed" pre-mix instructions part (have in the CMA book, but where oh where on these dastardly HD's?). Have keyed a run at this and placed here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
along with spiffing up spellings, appearance on related pieces... once again at your prompting.
Thanks again, you necessarily cruel taskmastah ;)
Bob Fenner>

Re: Water Changes
Bob, Thanks for the replies. I have visited your site and printed off the details on alkalinity etc. Couple of questions though:
When you say "store the water, aerate for a week" do you mean actually aerate it for a week?? 
<Well, actually no... but to keep the water in motion... if folks are only using a mechanical aerator to mix their synthetic, yes... better to keep this pump/stone running... Much better outgassing of sanitizer, complexing of ionic metal, mixing of artificial salt components... and less likelihood of capillary action/siphoning of water out of the container... Yes, mundane to ridiculous considerations... but real. Better than a mechanical aerator is/would be a small submersible pump, powerhead... that can be easily rigged to help pump/move the new water into the main/display system(s), and possibly contribute its/their waste heat to warming the water...>
Most places I read say aerate it for a minimum of 6 hours. Whilst I accept there is no "maximum" it seems an awful long time -what are the benefits?
<Would you like more?>
I already use the Instant Ocean salt mix - it seems I may have been over supplementing - another local fish supplier recommendation due to the use of de-ionized water!
<I know of such suggestions... and disagree with them... if you drink, cook with the water used, it is likely fine for aquarium use... If you have doubts, concerns, have your source water tested (by a lab, the water district...) and invest in a simple reverse osmosis unit...>
The last paragraph is a bit confusing - are you recommending the use of a calcium reactor or adding buffers or both???
<Just the calcium reactor... there are a few major "Beta/VHS" variations here... but (let me whip out my crystal ball here) there is no doubt, NO DOUBT, that the hobby will go the calcium reactor route in the near (next few years) route... the supplement field as it exists now is absolute madness...>
Maybe this comes under - too much is definitely not better!!
Thanks again, Scott
<Be chatting, my sentient friend. Bob Fenner>

Skittish fish
We have a 75 gallon reef maybe 2mo. old with a smattering of fish: Chromis, damsels, firefish and a coral beauty. All seems normal but when we do routine maintenance like water changes the fish do a jitter dance in the corners like they are about to be eaten. So my question is: could I put some mirror film on the outside of the tank with the mirror facing the fish so they wont be disturbed? The tank sits in the corner with minimal foot traffic, so what gives?
<Umm, if I understand you here... the new water is likely not "ready to be used" as you've prepared it (it's toxic in some way/s)... do read over the "Seawater Use" section and FAQs posted on the www.WetWebMedia.com site... you may need to get a R.O. device (for your cooking, drinking use as well), and pre-mix and store your new/change water for a week or so ahead of use... Don't use a reflective material on the outside of your tank... this will cause your livestock harm, and won't look good to you in any length. Bob Fenner>

Quick question about "top off" water
Hey Bob, just had a thought today...
You suggested that I premix saltwater and store it for a week or so to get rid of the "gunk" that comes in tap water. Does leaving tap water out in a
Rubbermaid container alone make it suitable for top off water too? 
Or is there something in the mixing of salt that causes the impurities to go away?
<More the latter... the sanitizer (chloramine, its consequent manifestations, chlorine) do dissipate in "just freshwater" from such preparation... many more benefits from pre-mixing and storing seawater>
Do phosphates and chloramine and all that other stuff disappear just by "sitting out" awhile?
<Not so much phosphates... depending on what format (PO4 doesn't exist in a vacuum... attached and more/less soluble, interactive with other matter depending on... how it is attached/arranged molecularly), but other materials, ionic matter yes. Bob Fenner>
Thanks. - Eugene

Quick Water Question
Hello Bob,
Just wanted to clarify something I read in your newest FAQ, and something in CMA.
<Okay>
I am now acquiring my equipment for my new 1st saltwater tank (90 Gallon) and starting to plan for initial startup.
If I buy a huge trash can, I can fill it with the my salt and tap water, let it sit for a week, with aeration and temp control, and all the bad "stuff"
will be eliminated. No need to get RO water? 
<Not as much...>
No need for water conditioners? (not that I doubt you in the least bit) but just wanted to clarify, reassurance.
<No need whatsoever>
Thanks again for a great website, all my friends are sick of me talking about my new hobby. I love it!!!!
<Me too. Bob Fenner>
Warmest Regards, Peter Frederixon

Saltwater storage limit?
Bob,
I have spent the better part of the night browsing through the Wetwebmedia site. I have been maintaining a 55 gallon saltwater tank for 10 years (okay, I did start completely over after a move 6 years ago), and I am constantly amazed by my ignorance.
<I for mine as well>
I am constantly procrastinating on water changes because the water making process is kind of a pain for me. I am busy with human children and other
pets... Anyway, I did purchase a large Rubbermaid waste container on wheels and an extra sump pump a while back to make this easier.
<Very good>
After reading your opinions on making up the water, I am almost sold. The drawback--I only need 5 gallons/month for my tank's water changes. Can I
make up a whole bunch of saltwater (say 20-25 gallons), mix it for a week, use what I need and store the rest (covered) with no circulation indefinitely?
<Absolutely. No problem. Bob Fenner>
Thanks, Linda

Shelf life of saltwater
Bob,
We are purchasing a house about 45 minutes north of our current location and I will be moving my marine tank. I am going to prepare saltwater in advance of the move (at the new location) and was wondering how long mixed saltwater will stay 'good'? 
<Many months>
Also, should I mix in some tank water a few days in advance to establish some of the bacteria to the new water or is this a waste of time? 
<A worthwhile action>
(I will preserve as much tank water as possible to avoid too stressful of a situation, hopefully.) Your piece on WWM gave me some helpful information on the process as well. Thanks.
<Good to hear/read. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
Humbly, Mike Stewart

Rubbermaid brute
Dear Bob:
My LFS tells me that some of my reef tank problems might be because of the plastic trash can that I am using for preparation and storage of my RO salt water. I am using a Rubbermaid trash can, but it is not the "Brute" model that I see you recommend. One of the RO manufacturers has told my LFS that the storage container should be "food safe".
Do you know if the Brute is "food safe" and is that one of the reasons why you recommend it? Bob Pentecost
<As far as I am aware, all of Rubbermaid's products are food safe. The Brute line definitely is... We used them extensively for decades. Bob Fenner, who may send this note along to RM.>