
|
|
FAQs about Ultraviolet Sterilizer Selection/Manufacturers
Related Articles:
Ultraviolet Sterilizers,
Physical Filtration, Ultraviolet
Sterilizers in Pond Filtration
Related FAQs: Ultraviolet Sterilizers 1, Ultraviolet
Sterilizers 2, Ultraviolet Sterilizers 3,
UV Use in Business Set-Ups, Rationale/Use,
DIY, Installation Issues,
Operation/Maintenance, Repair,
UV Lamp
Replacement,
UV from any source can help improve water quality for all marine
life. An Arrowhead Crab, crinoids and more... | 
|
UV Or Ozone For Sterilization 10/1/09
Hi Gang,
<Hello Ray>
I have a question for you regarding the use of UV sterilization and/or
Ozone generation. First, a little background on the tank though. I
recently upgraded my 55 gallon reef tank (running for 3 years) to a 180
gallon about 4 months ago. All has been doing well with no fish loss and
all the parameters are well within specs for a reef tank (Temp 79, Ph
8.2-8.4, Nitrates 0, Phosphates 0.01, Mg 1250, Ca 480, Salinity 1.026,
ORP 380-420mV- via RKE and probe). I have been adding more fish and
corals slowly over time and usually have not run into any problems.
However because I travel a lot I have not been as strict on the use of a
hospital tank as I should have and after introducing a couple clownfish
I returned a few weeks back to find them coated in a white slime (of
which I believe was Brooklynella). All but one clown perished during
this outbreak so I did not replace the clowns for 10 days in the main
tank but rather setup the hospital tank and treated the new clowns (6)
for 3 days with a Rid-Ich solution (dosage in accordance with the
label). The Clowns appeared healthy and did not shown any notable signs
of fungal, or Protozoan infestation however I was scheduled to travel in
a few days so introduced them to the tank as I do not have a way to feed
or chill the water (I live in South Texas) in the hospital tank. After
about a week I have again noted one of the Clowns had a great amount of
white stuff around its mouth (but not on its body). It is impossible to
get the fish out of the tank and I have a 15 watt UV module installed in
the chiller which should be taking care of anything when it's becomes
free born in the water column. I decided to verify the UV and when I
pulled it out it was failed and the starter bulb was shorted. I have
been doing some research and learned that with a ~1000 gph main pump and
a 15 Watt UV it basically is doing nothing as the dwell times would be
pretty much nil to kill anything, even algae.
<Agreed.>
So now my question... I would like some guidance on which would be a
better route to take (most bang-for-the-buck so to speak) to get the
tank back on track.. UV or Ozone generation?
I currently use the Reef Keeper Elite controller and an ORP probe and am
looking at budgeting $400-$500 for either an 80W (or is 40 watts
enough?)
Emperor Aquatics UV (or which I may build myself) and run with a
200-300gph
pump or purchase a 200mg/hr Red Sea Ozone generator. Or other
suggestions please!
Am I on the right track with regard to getting ahead of the disease and
preventing further any outbreak?
<Ozone and/or UV are only going to kill organisms that come in contact
with these devices, so it is likely that all parasitical cysts are not
going to be killed. If I were to buy one of these units, it would be an
ozone generator. There is a twofold benefit with using ozone, it is
effective in killing disease causing organisms, and at the same time
raises water quality by increasing the RedOx level of the system. Good
water quality in itself is a boon in preventing disease outbreaks.
Do read here before buying. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm.
James (Salty Dog)>
Regards,
Ray
UV Sterilizer/Selection 2/26/09 Dear Bob, <Hello
Christopher, James with you today.> Which UV sterilizer is a better
design and better quality? The 40 watt Ultra Life Ultra V VHO UV
Sterilizer (2''x 22'' long) or the Emperor Aquatics Smart 40 watt UV
Sterilizer ( 43.8" x 3'') ? I want the best one possible. I have a 250
gallon reef with plenty of room to mount either unit. Which do you
think? Do you know anything about the quality of each device? Thanks for
your help. Look forward to your response. <As far as quality/design
is concerned, I'd say the Ultra Life has the edge here. The Ultra Life
model has a far greater killing power per gph. As an example, 45,000 aeW
sec/cm2 (microwatt seconds per square centimeter) is needed to
effectively kill protozoa. The 40 watt Ultra Life will give you a 70,000
aeW sec/cm2 at 1000gph where the Emperor's highest flow rate to
effectively kill protozoa is 525gph. My choice would be the Ultra Life
and, it is about 100 bucks less. You can also change the lamp in the
Ultra Life without draining the housing or shutting down the pump. I'm
not sure if this can be done with the Emperor. Hoping this helps you
out. James (Salty Dog)> Christopher Faiola
Ozonizer/UV/Refugiums – 11/27/07 I have read a lot of the FAQ's
on your site regarding ozonizers, but still I am confused and have
questions, <<Okay>> I thank you in advance for your time. <<I’m
happy to assist>> I have a 75 gallon tank, 70 lbs. of live rock, 20
gallon wet/dry sump (All Glass Mega-Flow 3), Coralife 65 gallon (needle
wheel) super skimmer in sump, some corals and 20 fish <<This is a lot
for this size tank...I hope they are mostly small...>> and some of
these fish rely on this algae as a source of food. <<...?>> My
bi-color blenny is steady working on the algae on the glass as well as
my flame & coal beauty and not to mention the crabs and snails, wouldn't
an ozonizer or UV sterilizer take away this natural food source?
<<Possibly, though the Ozonizer more likely than the UV Sterilizer ...as
a function of improved water quality. But the algae can be
easily/readily supplemented through feedings, and in my opinion, the
addition of an Ozonizer would far outweigh this perceived downside>>
Also the mandarin and 6-line wrasses are always looking for pods,
<<Normal behavior>> I think my system is not producing enough pods,
<<Indeed...the tank is hardly large enough to support the Mandarin,
alone...which is likely being out-competed by the wrasse for the
available food supply>> would this be hurt by UV or ozonizer?
<<Not appreciably... The UV will affect bacteria, mostly (which I don’t
recommend if you keep corals, which may feed on these)...and the
Ozonizer, if correctly employed with the skimmer, should only affect
that which was doomed/bound for removal from the system already>> My
water does not look really clean, seems there is always a lot of small
particles floating around, I have tried a number of different filters
and set ups, have tried taking out the bio balls and there isn't much
change. <<Removal of the particulates will require some type of
“mechanical” filtration. This can be in the form of a canister filter,
adding filter floss to the overflow intake or a filter sock to the
outflow pipe...with all requiring cleaning/replacement on “at the least”
a weekly basis>> I have thought about making sump into a refugium,
what is the best way to configure my current sump and convert it to a
refugium? <<Lots of ways this can be accomplished, It can be as
simple or as complex as you want to make it. Do have a look through our
wealth of info beginning here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm),
continue among the linked files in blue at the top of the pages and then
return with more “specific” questions if you wish>> Do you recommend
this, if so, please advise best configuration/set up? <<The addition
of a refugium is of benefit. My preference is to utilize separate
vessels for the sump and refugium, but many hobbyists can/do incorporate
the two together. For simple “pod” production, an unlit refugium with a
shallow and coarse substrate (1-inch deep of 3-5 mm grain size) with
some live rock rubble will suffice. Keep in mind that to maximize
populations, the critters in the refugium will require periodic feedings
(a few shrimp pellets every couple days is sufficient in my
experience)>> I also have a sulfur denitrator and it has kept my
nitrates at almost zero, but for some reason my corals and invertebrates
have slowly died off. <<Are you saying there is a correlation here?>>
I had already started losing my corals when I installed the sulfur
denitrator, my nitrates were around 40 <<Mmm...>> and now I am
consistently 0-5, is there any side affects by using this and what are
your thoughts on the sulfur denitrator? <<I have no direct experience
with this gear but have heard testimony to its effectiveness. If the
denitrator has been correctly employed/maintained I doubt it is the
cause of your coral’s demise. The corals/inverts may have already been
severely malaffected by the high Nitrate levels and simply never
recovered...or...there may be environmental issues/other issues of water
quality at play here>> I believe we could have introduced copper from
transferring fish from the aquarium store; some of their water had
gotten into our aquarium. <<Not likely in sufficient quantity to be
of concern>> Does the ozonizer take out the copper? <<No...add
some chemical filtration (carbon/Poly-Filter) if this is a concern. To
gain a better understanding of Ozone and its uses/benefits, please read
this three part article by Randy Holmes-Farley on Ozone use and its
application to marine aquariums(part-1
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php), (part-2
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php), (part-3
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php) >> I have only
been doing this for about 8 months, and it seems everyone we talk to at
the local fish stores gives us different advice, use this/you don't need
that, etc. etc. <<Ah yes, understood...but it is no different here my
friend. Opinions/differences of opinion still abound. You need to spend
some time reading/educating yourself and then applying your own good
judgment to make decisions>> Again, thanks for your time. Kelly
Hood <<Read through the material I have indicated, and feel free to
come back to me for further help/explanation. Regards, Eric Russell>>
UV Sterilizer Application – 11/13/07 Hello Eric, Bob and Crew!
<<Hey there Don!>> My wonderful question today is what choice you
guys/girls would do for a 210 AGA Mega Slow. <<Mega “Slow”...Ha! I
get it! Good one!>> I have an EV-240 with Mag18 pump in my 135 gallon
sump. I have a section cut off for refuge and a 7 inch DSB with 50# LR.
To help with Crypt outbreaks and I completely understand this isn't a
cure all but I'm trying to figure a best fit scenario. A) Corallife 36
watt UV connected to a proper pump and let all the filtered water go
through the out take to the tank. B) Buy 3 separate Corallife Twist UV's
and place 2 9 watt UV's in the Mega Slow over boxes and still do option
A with an 18 watt Corallife Twist UV. C) Stop being an idiot with crazy
ideas, buy a UV and just stick it in the sump. <<I’d just choose the
simplest approach (likely ‘C’). I’m not a big fan of “Hobby use” UV
units, I find them to be too fiddly/high-maintenance to keep them
working efficiently and for the “little good” they may do re Crypt
control. I would rather spend the bucks on a quality ozone unit for its
increased benefits to the system...and rely on my own good
husbandry/quarantine/hospital technique for pest protozoan
prevention/treatment>> Thanks again for your time. Don V.
<<Always glad to proffer an opinion. Eric Russell>> UV
Choices – 5/4/07 Hi again Bob, <Hi. Alex filling in
tonight.> I would like to thank you for helping me out with my
aquatic problems in the past. I would like to add a UV sterilizer to my
72-gallon FS tank. It only has 1 Eheim 2217 Classic canister filter, but
I am thinking of adding on an AquaClear 500 in the near future. I would
like to add a sterilizer into my setup to improve and maintain my fish.
I am planning to add the UV sterilizer on the return side of my canister
filter. The Eheim 2217 model is rated at 264 US GPH, and the return hose
diameter is 1/2". I was browsing through the Coralife Turbo Twist models
earlier and noticed that the inlet outlet sizes for the 18 watt model
that I was interested in were 5/8" or 1" barbs. Although the 9 watt
model had 1/2" barbs fro the inlet/outlet, I believe that the 9 Watt
model is well undersized to the 264 US GPH filter. <How much flow do
you actually get through the filter? If it is closer to 200 gph, you
would be fine with the 9 W.> I do not want to mess around with
adapters and different diameter hoses so I started to look at other
manufacturers such as Current USA. Replacement UV bulbs and quartz
sleeves for Current USA's Gamma model were significantly less expensive
than other manufacturers' models. Their inlet/outlet sizes also matched
the 1/2" size of the return line for my Eheim canister filter. I am now
strongly considering the Gamma 15 watt or 25 watt model. Do you have any
recommendations as to what manufacture I should go with? Is it worth
purchasing a couple barb adapters to fit that 18 Watt Coralife Turbo
Twist model in. I am only asking again because I have heard good things
about the Turbo Twist. <I have one and like it. It is easy to
disassemble for cleaning, and I like that it is a fairly low wattage,
more efficient due to dwell time.> Also what wattage would you go
with to kill parasites with a 264 GPH flow rate? <This completely
depends on the manufacturer. It’s not just the wattage, but the dwell
time and configuration that are important. You need to match the
manufacturers’ recommendations. For the Coralife, you would want the
18 W, if you really have this much flow, but this will be more
sterilizing than you need for this size tank. The 9 W is for up to 125
gallons. Measure your flow and maybe the 9W will work for you after
all. The Current USA models seem to want much higher flow rates for
similar wattages, the 15 W should be fine for your tank.> Any
comment would be greatly appreciated. I have also given some thought to
purchasing a separate pump to power my UV sterilizer, <I like this
option, slower is better for sterilizing. A small powerhead should fit
somewhere.> but do not have any room to fit a submersible in my tank. I
would like to definitely take advantage of my canister and use it as a
huge prefilter to feed my UV sterilizer extra clear water. <Also a
reasonable option, but then you have this sizing problem. Plenty more
opinions to read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/UVFAQs.htm > Thank you, Julian
L. <Welcome. Alex> UV Question 8/2/05 Hello;
<Hi there> I once sent a mail to WetWeb. I didn't receive a reply.
In case you recall that email and my name attached to it, I thought to
add a humble apology. At that time I was relatively new (still am
though) to fish keeping, but at the same time I didn't want to come
across as unknowledgeable for some reason. I was likely tired and
frustrated that evening trying to find answers on-line to my problems.
So I may have "over-stated / emphasized" some need to establish a lack
of ignorance on my part while asking questions. I likely did not come
across well - so sorry. <No worries> I have been reading on
WetWeb for several months. I wind up in your archive somewhere every
time I have questions. Thanks for having that info available free to the
public, and thanks up front if you have time to assist me here, please.
<Welcome> UV Sterilizers: I've read through your UV info; but
could not find info regarding over-sizing UV's and effects on temp.
<Usually not a real issue... as the wattage described is not the watts
added... especially with most modern units that are sleeved...> A
tech aid at Dr. Foster&Smith recently told me that you cannot go too big
regarding UV wattage. <Practically this is so> Also - they post
a chart stating required flow rates for parasite kills. (btw - I have
read your statements regarding UV's actual effect on parasites and the
narrow range / requirements within which any benefit exists. I
understand UV may not be an effective guard - and I do use HT / QT,
btw.) <Ah, good... UV is a useful adjunct....> Even still I plan
to purchase UV's, and to use this simple standard (running the Turbo
Twist models): -- On QT / HT I'll run 9w UV in-line using a Hydor
Prime-10 (80 gph) -- On all tanks less than 55 gal I'll run 18w
in-line to a Hydor Prime-20 (155gph) -- For tanks 55 gal to 90, I'll
use 36w and a Hydor Prime 30 (230gph) -- anything bigger I'll use
55w UV +, and maybe a Filstar XP3 (350gph). My concern is if I use,
say, an 18w UV with a Hydor Prime-20 on a 20gal / 30gal tank - or a 36w
on a 55gal tank - (using the Hydors), then what would be the temperature
effect of this over-sizing / low flow-rate attempt? <Almost
negligible, as you will find> Will I need a chiller? <Not unless
you need one already> I have an air-conditioned home; but in the
summer my tanks always stay about 80 deg F regardless - so I'm concerned
that the larger UV's will only lead into chiller costs too. Thank
You Scott K <These fluorescent UV lamps run quite cool. No
problem. Bob Fenner> Jebo UV
9/30/05 Hi, I have a question about a new Jebo 9watt UV
sterilizer (outside aquarium) I just bought. I have seen you have
answered the question for someone else. But I am confused about the
extra piece that comes with this. It is call LifeTech AP 1500 aquarium
liquid filter. On the side of the box it shows it hooked up to a
underground filter. I was going to hook up the sterilizer after the
filter (Fluval 404), should I connect the hose that returns to the part
on this that propels the water in? Or do I even this piece? Thank you
for your time. Ashley <I would leave this bit off... not worth
the time/trouble of servicing, and no need here. Bob Fenner>
In search of new UV sterilizer units 8/11/05 Hello all!
<Wendy> I work for a medium sized aquarium maintenance company and
have been given the daunting task of finding a replacement UV sterilizer
units for the Aquanetics units we can no longer purchase (since I
believe they have gone out of business) <Yes... John (Epps) sold a
few years back (we were friends for many years, both live in San
Diego...) and the new folks folded> My boss would prefer to use the
same type of bulb (with two pins on each end of the bulb). We have
tried the new Coral life Turbo-twist UV's and have had no end of
problems with units that leak, which in a corporate environment is a
disaster. <Yes> We had another company, that I can't currently
remember the name of, which made very nice units, and then went out of
business after 6 months. What we need is a unit that is reliable,
that uses the same bulbs as the Aquanetics, and from a company that is
not going to disappear faster than Cinderella after midnight! Please
help... Keep getting soaked with UV sterilizers... Wendy Amaral
<Contact Chris Buerner at Quality Marine here... perhaps TMC's Vectron
units will work for you... They're what our service company used to use,
and what they use at Quality... Bob Fenner>
UV Sterilizer
Brands and Uses 12/16/05 I really appreciate the advice
that I have received over the last couple of years. <Your welcome,
I’m glad you have found us to be helpful.> Now the UV filter.
<Okay.> The Jebo UV filters are almost too good to be true
concerning price (around $40 w/pump). Are these just a piece of junk, or
can I expect to get some use out of this product? <Well I’ll say
this, “You get what you pay for.” While I will not go as far as to say
this product is worthless it’s quality is no where near as high as say
the fixtures made by Coralife/ If you plan on this fixture being a long
term component on your system I would invest in something that will last
longer.> I am finally investing in a UV filter to try and cut down
on some of the free floating algae in my tank. This UV light will help
to clarify my water due to this problem correct? <To some degree
yes. There is a lot of controversy as to whether UV sterilizes help, I
think the important thing to remember is that they are indiscriminate,
they will kill the good and bad things that pass through them. My
overall opinion of them is that they are useful tools to have and can be
quite helpful in some situations but not necessary or mandatory
components by any means. Adam J.>
Odd UV Dear
Bob, <Steven Pro this morning.> I would like to purchase a Vecton
15 watt UV sterilizer. There is only one active supplier in the US and
will not sell to private individuals <Who is he selling to?> and I
cannot find anyone who will or can order this for me. Can you help me?
<We at WWM do not sell anything other than articles and images. I would
contact this vendor again and ask for whom he sells to. One of these
places has to be a retailer. Otherwise, I would shop for another brand.
If getting the unit is such a hassle, getting replacement lamps will be
too.> Thank you, Mona <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Skimmer and UV Thanks for the advice, I will buy the Remora
hang-on, I will just have to buy the pump locally because of the
different voltage and frequency. Another question: I intend to buy an
UV-Sterilizer and I have seen recently the Tetratec UV-Sterilizer with a
good price. Please find in the address below its specifications.
http://www.shopsolution.nl/shop/home.asp?shopid=seameec&deptid=tetratechniek
My aquarium is 230 liters. Do you think it is a good choice? Most
display aquariums do not need a UV. They are better employed on the
quarantine tank> Is it better to connect it as a by-pass on my
external bio filter or to use a separate pump for it? <either way it
needs slow flow and very well prefiltered water (chemically and
mechanically treated). Anthony> Any preferences or advices to
choose between these sterilizers (9watt lamp) Coralife
Turbo-Twist 3x <I see from your next email you made your decision>
Custom Sealife U2 Custom Sealife Double Helix They all seem to
have max aquarium size u to 125 gals and all claim to be the best
:-) <Very common in the world of advertising. I see many claims as to
the best car, but as long as the mileage is decent, and it takes me
reliably where I need to go... I personally don't use a sterilizer, and
really don't see the need for one on my system, so I'm not up on their
qualities. I would advise asking such a question on a forum, you can try
ours over at
http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/index.jsp someone there doubtless knows
more about sterilizers than I do. > Thank you, Luke <Sorry I
couldn't be of more help, have a good evening, PF>
Goldfish. Hi, <Hey Travel, MacL here with you tonight.> I
have two questions... I saw on a website (http://www.aquadirect.com/catalog/uv/customsealife.htm)
a U2 Double Pass UV sterilizer. I thought CSL (CustomSeaLife) went
bankrupt earlier this year? Are they back in business and operating
under a new name? <I believe that while they have gone out of business
they is still stock being sold under there name that was made
previously. Least that my best guess.> I see the name "Clear
Solutions" now is on the pictures? This sterilizer looks very similar,
however different. <Never heard of it but lots do come and go>
Second question. I have a 65 gallon tank with 7 goldfish. They did
fine the past 2 years... 2 weeks ago they suddenly started to go crazy
(move like rockets in the tank, bump in the glass, in each other, etc.)
when I turn on the lamp/light. <Anyway there is a short in your tank
from the lamp> They do fine when the light is not on, they swim around
happily, however once I turn on the light all hell breaks loose? any
idea why? What can I do to stop them? <Almost sounds like they are being
blinded or shocked in some way.> It appears 1 or 2 of the fish start
each time and the others just follow? Thanks for your assistance.
Kind Regards, Travel
CSL demise issues? Bob:
<Steve> I thought you might find this incident interesting, if not a
bit scary. You may recall that we speculated while I was in HI (still
enjoying the memories, BTW) about the causes of the demise of Custom
SeaLife. You mentioned some fire liability issues. Over the months,
others have mentioned rumors of lawsuits. <Yes> I had a CSL Double
Helix UV that I bought a couple of months before their demise. One day a
few months back, I noticed that the light was not on (there's a viewing
port). I disconnected the unit, unplugged it and tucked it away in a
corner. Recently, I decided to get a new bulb. Well, when I opened the
unit, I was shocked to see that water had leaked out of the tube onto
the circuitry. There was corrosion and actual thermal burns! Thank God
it didn't burn my house down. The thing I can't figure out is why it did
not trip my GFCI. Perhaps all owners of this unit should inspect theirs
carefully for evidence of internal leakage. <Yeeikes! There is an
issue of a secondary "loop" circuit in many wiring arrangements of
fluorescent lighting... that can bypass the GFCI circuitry/shutoff> I
hope you are well. I regret being unable to afford ($ and time -- busy
month including business trip to Madison) to come to MACNA, but look
forward to an opportunity to get together again. Steve Allen
<Indeed. Steve, do try to come out, enjoy Hawaii with your family. I
don't have to be there! Bob F>
UV Sterilizer (10/31/04)
I am told I should get a Coralife Turbo-Twist? What is it and why should
I need it? <I'm going to assume we're talking about saltwater aquariums
here, not FW or a pond. It is a brand of UV sterilizer. I am very
satisfied with mine. Others of the crew do not believe in UV
sterilization, and it is not without cons as well as pros. The concept
is that it kills microorganisms in the water (both bad ones and good
ones, of course). It may aid in prevention of bacterial and fungal
infections and parasitic infestations (e.g.) ich, as well as the spread
of algae spores. I'd suggest you read the FAQs regarding UV. There is
also an excellent little piece about it in the article on marine
parasites by Scott W. Michael in last year's Aquarium USA annual (The
2004 one, which may still be available somewhere, though the 2005 has
been out for a couple of months.) Then you can decide if you really
"need" (want) one.> Robert M. Levy <Hope this helps, Steve Allen.>
Coralife Mega-watt UV Sterilizer Hi Bob, First off, I have
your book and I have to say it is very well written and informative. I
enjoy it tremendously. Anyway, I am doing an initial investigation on UV
sterilizers. A few days ago, I came across a website which was endorsing
the Coralife Mega-watt UV sterilizer for it's efficiency, ease of
maintenance, and relative low cost. I am wondering whether you have any
experience with this particular brand and if so, could you tell me more
about it? This will be my first UV sterilizer. Can you make other
recommendations, taking into consideration the cost and the ease of
installation and maintenance? By the way, I have a 75-gallon FOWLR tank.
Thanks. Boon >> Thank you for writing... and yes, I do know the
unit (have been to the folks, place that make it for ESU/Coralife)...
and rank it about in the middle for "design, construction, utility,
overall value"... It's not as bad as some of the other major brands in
terms of leakage... or junk ballasting... But I don't own/use this
model/brand... My more complete ideas on ultraviolet sterilizers,
including a parts list on how to assemble them DIY, and installation are
archived in an article at www.wetwebmedia.com and my opinion re the
better, best features and the companies that offer them have not
changed... for many years. The number one make/models are produced by
TMC (Tropical Marine Centre)... and are thankfully distributed in the US
(your dealer will know by whom)... For inexpensive, hobbyist-intended
applications the TMC/Vecton line is made "for the job"... not just PVC
pieces and compression couplings and spare electrical fittings
cut/solvented/clipped and pushed together... They come with sleeving...
remoteable ballasts, rigged for hanging, and are engineered for maximum
kill rate per rated pass... they do the job, last the longest, are a
relative joy to work on... In a word, provide VALUE for the money.
Wow, guess this is clear! Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner
UV's, Parties, and Upcoming Fish-FUN Hello Bob!! My name is
Shaun von Hecht, we met at the Sacramento Marine Aquarist convention
(You spoke on Echinoderms, remember the after party??). <Oh yes,
good times> Anyways, I'm very happy with your views &
recommendations, so I thought I might ask you a couple questions, if
you don't mind: <Fire away> 1) one of my service accounts runs 2
U.V.s : a 15 watt Aquanetics & a 25 watt Life Guard, in series, the 25
watt is first. The tank is ~200 gallon marine "fish only" triggers,
grouper, wrasse... tuff stuff. So, my question is, is the 15watt unit
still effective due to the larger unit being first? How effective are
multiple U.V.s in series, compared with 1 "big" unit? Flow rate is no
more than 150 GPH. <I suspect you and I are in agreement here...
Watts are Watts and exposure time, proximity to the ionizing radiation
are all that are important...> Also, I know this isn't the best
configuration out there, but as a servicer, I had to make due with what
was available to me. <I understand, and agree... have been
there/here many times> 2) what brand carbons are you partial to??
<Eheim, TMC's high-retention (HR) brand, for cheapy "in town", the
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals highest (of three) qualities...> I usually
use Marineland & Rainbow Lifeguard pellets. <These are okay,
passable> Thanks for your time!! Shaun <Anytime. See you at
the next WMC, Monterey. Bob Fenner> UV lights and nitrates
Hi, I have 90g saltwater with live sand and live rocks, I thinking of
buying UV lights but not sure what brand, size watts and gph to run it.
I also having problem reducing nitrates in my tank over 60ppm I lost
some of my fish already please help me!!!!!( I change my water 25% every
week using reverse osmosis not tap water but seems like I can't bring it
down no matter what I do.( I should put more live rocks in). (no
nitrites or ammonia, ph 8.2) Thank you for your time Randy
<Hmm, do re-read your message here... needs proofing... Read over the
site mentioned below for articles and FAQ's on lowering nitrates. An
ultraviolet sterilizer for this size system? Hmm kind of depends on rate
of flow of water you want to push through it... but a twenty or thirty
or so watt unit's about right. My favorite make/model? Do read over the
UV piece on the site: www.wetwebmedia.com and the review of the company,
Tropical Marine Centre, and look for one of their units (or ask your
dealer to order one for you)... Bob Fenner> UV Sterilizer
purchase Bob, I am in the market for a UV sterilizer, my
question is my Fluval 304 pumps at 260gph the inline UV sterilizer is
labeled at 240gph will I experience any type of problems because since
it is inline the filter might over flow because the UV is not dishing
out the water flow fast enough. And on your article you mentioned that
it si common for a 55 gallon to use a 15watt UV but this UV am going
purchase is rated at up to 75 gallons. Any suggestions will be greatly
appreciated. Lost and Confused. <You're not that lost or
confused... And no problems with the higher rated UV... the "overkill"
here is minimal... with no real worries of... adding too much of
anything other than perhaps a modicum of waste heat to your system...
Bob Fenner> UV Manufacturer Ratings/Opinions Bob, I
just recently bought an Aquanetics inline 15watt UV sterilizer, it
is rated at 480 GPH Max flow rate >and recommended 240g max size
fishtank. <Really? Fifteen watts? This isn't much radiation for
such a size system... but at a low flow rate... of some use> I on
the other hand have a Fluval 304 rated at 260 GPH running on my 55g
fish only tank. Is this too much UV for my system ? <Not too
much...> and what do you think of Aquanetics ? Thank you for
your time. <The owner, John Epps is an old acquaintance and a good
friend of our old corporation has been there for more than a decade...
and we "live" in the same town... but their UV products... are
inferior... very common problems with leaking... no where near the
features of better manufacturers... like TMC (about the best consumer
units on the planet), Emperor... many others... My opinions. Bob
Fenner> Where to buy Vecton UV Sterilizers Hello
Robert, I am ready for a UV sterilizer and I know you like the Vecton
units. Are there any US distributors? <Yes. Quality Marine in Los
Angeles imports these units. Their URL and that of the manufacturer
(TMC, Tropic Marine Centre of the UK) can be found on the links pages of
the www.WetWebMedia.com site. You may need to enlist the help of a local
retailer to purchase this unit from Quality. Bob Fenner> Thanks!
Steven Berg Today's FAQs Hi Bob, Rick your reefing
friend here. I read in the FAQ today that you think the Rainbow
Lifeguard UV's are junk. Why do you say that. I currently own two 40
watt units and both seem to be working fine. One is 4 months old, one is
one month old. I respect your opinion and if you have a good reason for
not liking the RL units, I would really like to know as I will probably
toss them and buy what you recommend. Thanks as always <Perhaps
these units have been improved... wouldn't take much... will cut/paste
my opinion sent to someone else a few minutes back re: Yikes! If you
don't mind, can you tell me what you dislike about the RL UV? <Very
poor design, no engineering (the water flow through-path is about the
worst you could come up with)... terrible history of ballast failures
(we returned all, ALL at Petcos CASCO installs over the first year of
use... most within weeks...). Like too many of their products, poorly
thought out... Should stop spending money on advertising and go back and
make real products first. Really. Their repackaged swimming pool gear
(pumps, filters) are okay... the little chotchky aquarium filters,
relabeled German pumps made for constant hot water home use... a very
bad joke> From the sound of your response, sounds like it might not
just be useless, but harmful. Any UV preference for sterilization of
pests? <Yes... Read the site: TMC's...:
http://wetwebmedia.com/UVFAQs.htm> <<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>>
Rick UV Sterilizers I currently have a 90 gallon
overflow with a 30 gallon sump approx 35-40lbs of live rock, live sand
and fish. I was thinking of adding a UV sterilizer and noticed that you
dislike the Rainbow Lifeguard products. If I read correctly you
recommend the Vectron UV sterilizers, what size would you recommend , my
current return pump flow rate is around 300gph. Can you recommend a good
online store to purchase these units from ? <Don't know of anyone
directly who re-sells TMC's units in the U.S.. Ask your dealer to order
a suited size (for something approaching a 100% kill rate per pass) from
Quality Marine in Los Angeles. Bob Fenner> Thanks, Patrick Davis
Buffalo, NY UV sterilizer I have been working with
saltwater and freshwater fish for two years now. Currently I have a 46
gallon bow front aquarium with a emperor 400, Prizm skimmer, and a
VisiTherm heater. <do upgrade the skimmer as soon as possible
(before buying next fish/coral)> I also have about 15 pounds of live
rock and some invertebrates. all my fish died from ich) Through the
years I have had success and failure and really want to get the failure
to go away. I have had the most problems with my saltwater tanks and
have learned many lessons in the process. <hopefully quarantine all
fish for 4 weeks without exception was one of them <wink>> I have two
questions I have been trying to get answers to for weeks now. The first
is do you think I need to add a medium sized canister filter to my
tank. <nope... a fishless invert system would benefit by far with
more rock before it would a canister filter> The second question is a
little more complicated. I have just purchased a 30 watt U.V sterilizer
for my tank with a Rio 1600 powerhead to run it. <a huge UV for this
tank and the water pump is too fast/strong for effective kill time I
suspect (consult mfg recommendation for flow rates)> I haven't hooked
it up yet but is 30 watts too much for my sized tank. <not too
much... but larger than necessary. No harm though> I got a good deal
on it and I hope it will keep the parasites off my fish and reduce the
algae problems I have been having. <you will be disappointed about
the fish part but delighted about the algae control. UV filters can only
kill free-floating parasites... but if you do not QT a fish and bring
one into the display with parasites on the body, then they stay there,
drop off and some jump back up onto the fish without ever passing
through the UV. UV filters have a very strict range of terms under which
they will control pathogens... do review archives and FAQ's on this
topic (especially recent FAQ's). Any tank with gravel or sand will be
difficult to control parasites in if you make the mistake of not QT
them> Do U.V sterilizers really help with these problems. <bulb
must be less than 6 months old, water flow slow, water crystal clear and
prefiltered (carbon weekly ideal), etc> Thanks for your time and I
hope to hear back from you soon. <best regards, Anthony> A
Few Quick Questions (lionfish, UVs) I just added a lion fish to
my tank that is full of inverts. The only one am scared he will eat is
my cleaner shrimp. So far he has been fine with the shrimp and seems to
be begging the shrimp to clean him. I have seen them face to face and
the lion did not eat him. What do you think about this situation.
<Sounds good now, but no telling if things will change later.> The
lion is also the only fish in my tank because all the others died two
weeks ago from ich. My fish store told me that after a few weeks the ich
would be dead. Is this true? <More likely one month and you are
safe.> Are lions pretty good about not getting diseases? <Hardy
individuals, but will succumb if exposed and difficult to treat.> I
also would like to add a U.V sterilizer to my 46 gallon tank. What size
do you think I will need? <Varies by manufacturer.> Will it help
in the prevention of diseases? <Somewhat, but not nearly as effective
as quarantine and proper husbandry.> Last question is about bristle
worms. I have some very small bristle worms in my aquarium they seem so
far not to have done any harm. I have read that having some worms can be
beneficial to my tank. What do you think? <Yes, almost all are
beneficial.> Thanks for your time and I love the site keep up the
good work. <Thank you, Steven Pro> UV Sterilizers
Thank you for your prompt response to my earlier question. Do you
recommend Custom Sea Life or Aqua Ultra Violet UV Sterilizers? <I do
not really recommend any UV's. Far cheaper and more effective to focus
on excellent husbandry. If you want, ask around the various chat forum,
message boards, or local aquarium societies for recommendations for your
fellow hobbyists. -Steven Pro>
|
|