FAQs on Freshwater Disease Treatments
Related Articles:
Freshwater Diseases,
Toxic Situations,
FW Disease Troubleshooting,
Ich/White Spot Disease, Choose Your
Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease Treatment Options
by Neale Monks,
FAQs on Freshwater Disease:
Freshwater
Disease 1, Freshwater Disease 2,
Freshwater Disease 3,
FW Disease 4,
FW
Disease 5, FW Disease 6,
FAQs on Freshwater Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Environmental, Nutritional,
Social, Trauma,
Genetic, Pathogenic (plus see Infectious and Parasitic categories
below),
&
Aquarium
Maintenance, Freshwater
Medications, Freshwater
Infectious Disease,
Freshwater Fish Parasites,
Ich/White Spot Disease,
Nutritional Disease,
African Cichlid Disease 1,
Cichlid Disease,
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Problem diagnosing disease. 6/4/19
Hello crew. I hope you are doing well, as always.
<Thanks. All good here!>
I was out for a week and left my aquariums in my family's care. I came
back and noticed quite a few things off. This is all regarding a 150 gal
peaceful cichlid community.
<Understood.>
Before I left I noticed my SAE ( 5 year old, 8 inc long) had a bit of
pale skin around his dorsal fin. I paid not much worry as they sometimes
scratch themselves on wood, really minor stuff.
<Indeed.>
I came back and he's got several pale patches, a tiny bit of its caudal
fin cut-off with a red patch and a small, cauliflower-like growth. Belly
is flat. I moved the guy to quarantine. Other occurrences in this same
aquarium: one of a school of 6 Congo tetras is dead, body half eaten so
not much to see. Another one has the same pale patches near its dorsal
fin, and has a chunk of flesh cut from his tail... small bit but cut off
nonetheless, flesh strands and all...
An Ancistrus ( 6 years old, 5 inch long) has white skin and many
cauliflower like growths... his behavior is as usual and is feeding
normally unlike the SAE and Congo which are distressed.
Finally, my yellow Acara ( 5 year old, 8 inch). Has skin peeling off
near its head and start of dorsal fin. He's feeding normally and all but
it looks like its skin is just that, peeling, whitish.
The Ancistrus, SAE and tetra were moved to a 10 gal quarantine. I
haven't been able to correctly diagnose the disease, it looks like many
things listed online... Costia, Chilodonella, Columnaris... they all
present whitening of skin and peeling but each fish shows unique
symptoms...
<There's a bunch of things here, some contradictory. The cauliflower-lid
growths, if on an otherwise healthy fish, can indicate viral infections.
Such growths will be smooth rather than frayed or bloody. They are
rarely associated with damaged fins and skin, especially if dead skin
and blood are visible. These last two symptoms are more typical of
bacterial infections and/or physical damage. Again, viral infections
rarely cause rapid deaths, and may even spontaneously heal after
months/years. Lymphocystis is the classic example of that, being caused
by chronic exposure to some stress factor, such as heavy metals, but can
be healed by prolonged good care. Bacterial infections, by contrast
can/do cause rapid death, especially Columnaris (Flavobacterium
columnare) also known as Mouth Fungus though neither a fungus nor
specific to the mouth! Now, the reason for all this mayhem is the tricky
bit to solve. One possibility is one of the cichlids is less peaceful
than you suppose. It may have decided to hold a territory or even spawn
during your absence, and while defending its eggs, damaged the fish that
approached it. This is VERY common in community tanks with cichlids,
with even relatively mild species, such as Blue Acara, being known to
cause very real harm. Another possibility is overfeeding, such that
ammonia levels spiked. If you're only gone for a week, it's invariably
the best thing to simply not feed the fish at all. Maybe throw in some
cheap aquarium plants (such as Elodea) and the fish will, if
sufficiently hungry, nibble on that. Finally, exposure to some airborne
or waterborne toxin is possible. This can happen when people use certain
paints, or cleaning products, or very occasionally, accidental or
malicious introduction of some toxic item into the tank by children or
idiots. Hard to say, really.>
Quarantines is being water changed every day, treatment of salt ( 50%
dose) Methylene blue and a treatment of 500mg daily of Amoxicillin.. I
haven't wanted to try a specific treatment but rather went a generic
route... SAE and tetra look more colorful and are feeding 2 days after
but they still aren't quite recovered. The Acara's condition is getting
worse but just slightly... probably has 3-4 damaged scales...
<Water changes certainly part of the solution, and if toxins
used/present, replacing as much water as practical, together with the
use of carbon (or even some better chemical adsorbent, such as
Polyfilter) will help. I'd suggest changing 80-90% of the water
immediately after seeing an aquarium in distress, and then another 50%
the day after, each time keeping water chemistry and temperature as
close as possible to the original conditions. Replace carbon after a
week, if not sooner, to prevent leaching of any chemicals back into the
system. So far as medications go, a wide spectrum antibacterial (e.g.,
eSHa 2000) or antibiotic (e.g., Maracyn 2) would be useful.>
Rest of the fish are fine. No aggression whatsoever in this tank. Photos
of SAE are in links. Will take pics of Acara in a while and send you.
The 150 gal has been running for 6 years and arguably its a tank where I
learned about fishkeeping.. my "experimental" aquarium... as such.. I
reckon its been plagued by several diseases through the first years. I
haven't added a fish since last year. I reckon its time to strip down
the tank and start anew, but that requires at least a week of preparing,
but I must save my fish.
Links:
https://scontent.fsal1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/61121929_10218691321929969_8221876046719352832_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_ht=scontent.fsal1-1.fna&oh=aa0a4e9255e483270d7e42b5d9398659&oe=5D8C877B
>>
https://scontent.fsal5-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/61299767_10218691321809966_6672419689349513216_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_ht=scontent.fsal5-1.fna&oh=b642add92c3c2b1d77229c8e595d8a52&oe=5D8CF400
Thanks, as always.
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Problem diagnosing disease.
6/5/19
Hello. Thanks for getting back to me.
<Welcome.>
I'm also inclined to believe this is of viral origin.
<Makes two of us, then.>
The fish in quarantine are healing their wounds but they still present the
growths, some disappear and leave behind a small hole in the fish's body. These
holes are what I'm focusing in healing, but I'm not sure if the growths can be
stopped. SAE Looks better, Congo tetra is back again and feeding, Ancistrus is
also healing.
<All sounds promising.>
I am in the process of tearing down the aquarium and a starting a new. I plan on
keeping the sump running so the cycle is not completely lost, but part of the
reason of tearing down the aquarium is removing any latent pathogens, think I
should scrub the sump as well?
<Possibly, and you can use commercial aquarium sterilisers to achieve this.
Alternatively, binning old media, gravel, etc. and replacing with new will do
the trick, alongside sterilising what you aren't replacing. Flip side is
anything that kills pathogens this aggressively will also kill filter bacteria.>
I have added a couple more pics. Cryptoheros sajica with said growths and the
holes they leave behind. Also the Acara with the peeling skin. Please note, the
Acara has what look like small bit of skin loose, but I'm also fearing they are
actually something else, like anchor worms, I've never seen them live, I'm not
sure how long they are.
https://scontent.fsal1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/61546637_10218711831602698_4719844165502894080_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_ht=scontent.fsal1-1.fna&oh=497e75a6f21a83a0f32612a055e5e7e5&oe=5D9C429C
https://scontent.fsal1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/61918459_10218711888244114_4312122494891851776_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_ht=scontent.fsal1-1.fna&oh=c1954eb5a4abc32061d35163a65e7256&oe=5D571A85
<I don't think the holes look a lot like Hole-in-the-Head disease, but that's
another thing to consider. Perhaps treating the cichlids as such, if they fail
to heal under their own steam, would help. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Trouble with my xxl freshwater predator tank
5/24/16
Well, I just came home from picking up some KanaPlex and Methylene blue
from the LFS and the temensis bass was dead in the 40 breeder
quarantine.
I did add 5 cups of aquarium salt to the 380 gallon display tank and
treated a half dose of PimaFix
<Worse than worthless. See WWM re these API scams>
(I figured it couldn't hurt and I really want my Arowana to make a full
recovery). I also added two extra wave makers to the tank to provide
extra water flow since I have bumped the temp up on the display and
added the PimaFix.
The Arowana is still eating pellets, and none of the other fish are
showing
any symptoms.
Thanks again,
Ashton Nietzke.
<.... is there more to this msg.? Bob Fenner>
Dead fish after 25% water change. More Melafix deaths
10/1/14
I just found your site and wondering if you can help me. Yesterday I had
MelaFix
<Mmm; am decidedly not a fan of this API product... it's a sham, a
scam... of no use medically... and implicated in disrupting
nitrification, causing troubles>
in my tank so last night I did a 25% water change. Rinsed my filter,
vacuumed my gravel and squirted flourish with a syringe on my plants. I
have had aquariums for years with no issues and have followed this same
procedure. As I was doing the cleaning I had fresh water in my bucket
that I had already added Aqua plus and cycle to. I finished the cleaning
added a pillow to the filter and refilled the tank with the new treated
water. 30 min later the fish started dying.
<Ahh, another non-"Fix" data point>
They looked like they were at the surface gasping for air. I have since
lost 11 fish. Some of the remaining ones now have ragged fins or appear
to be still struggling. I am not sure what to do now as the procedure I
followed I have done so many times before. This particular tank has been
running for four months with no issues and is 37 gallons Also I test my
water regularly and the water appeared to be in line even after the
water change. Any suggestions what to do next will be appreciated.
Thanks
C.
<Write API and ask for replacement of your livestock. Am hoping for
removal of this worse than placebo. SHAME on the folks that sell this
bunk product.
Bob Fenner>
Angelfish and other assorted deaths. No useful data
10/7/14
Hello WWM, have a bit of a pickle.
About 5 or so weeks ago I decided to sell my barramundi and start a community
tank.
I went out and (In my excitement bought more fish than I should have at once)
bought a mixed species of community fish, totaling up to about 100 small species
for my 6x2x2 670L tank.
For the first few days there were a few of the angels behaving strangely,
sitting at the top of the water, gasping (Oxygenation of the water isn't an
issue, they seemed to be gasping all the time and only 1-2 fish at a time)
<Some sort of shock/stress... that all were involved points to some aspect of
water quality>
Water parameters at the time were within range for all the fish in the tank, Ph
at 7 Ammonia and nitrite were reading 0. Nitrate seems tricky to tell(According
to the API test kit reads so red that nothing matches on the chart, while other
test brands read about 10ppm) Water is 77 Fahrenheit.
<Likely these are all okay... could be... a metal, alkalinity.... an organic,
inorganic...>
I've been to several aquariums, they all have no idea. I have treated for
parasites with formalin, and I have treated for bacteria with a product called
"Tri sulfa"
<Sulfa drugs... very old timey... not useful for a broad mix of pathogens>
nothing seems to have stopped my angels from dying.
No other fish have shown new symptoms since treating for bacteria, but I've just
lost one from my breeding pair of angels today.
ANY idea would be hugely appreciated!
Regards, Chris.
<Mmm; well; let's have you read. Here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWAngDisDiagF.htm
and the linked files above... to give you background, present the sorts of data
we're looking for...
Do write us back with more and your further observations
Bob Fenner>
Re: Angelfish and other assorted deaths.
10/8/14
Hello again, thanks for your prompt reply.
Perhaps you can recommend a better anti bacterial than the tri sulfa?
<Depending on the cause/hope for treatment and circumstances... a
"cycline" or furan compound might be more efficacious>
or a course of treatment in general?
<? Not recommended to "generally treat" organisms, systems. That is, w/o
knowing what it is you're treating for and the circumstances of the
particular system, I do NOT advocate simply adding chemicals>
I sadly lost another large angel today also, but managed to get some
photos of the gills.
<This fish looks exsanguinated... but from what? Nitrite exposure?
Parasitic involvement? Do you have a microscope handy?>
This is the first time I've lost fish, so I've no real idea on how they
are meant to appear.
<Ahh>
This is after about 30-60 minutes of no gill activity, laying in the
tank dead.
I have one fish presenting symptoms left, while the display tank seems
to be okay for now, though I will keep an eye on it.
The remaining angel was moved into a quarantine tank 138l with salt,
some bactonex and MelaFix.
<... this last may be a contributor... SEE WWM RE>
Still exhibiting signs, I think that it MIGHT be helping.
Lastly, you said "present the sorts of data we're looking for" if I've
missed any data or information please in the effort to save my fish let
me know what specific data might help!
Sincere thanks
Chris.
<.... READ where you've been referred. B>
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question about ugly red sore on Arulius Barb's mouth... A
host of errors; knowledge, action lack 1/27/14
I have been searching & searching the i-net for help in diagnosing my
Arulius Barb, who is about 5 years old, maybe.
<Decomposition from an injury; poor water quality, perhaps nutrition...
from?>
My problems started 2 weeks ago, when I added 6
small tetras, a small iridescent shark,
<Ohhh; misplaced here... This catfish grows to be huge... feet long...
Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/PangCatCompF.htm
Needs to be outsourced; ASAPractical. May be a principal source of the
trouble here w/ the barb>
& a catfish to my established 45-gal tank. The tank contained: 2
large Severum, a Cobalt Zebra,
<?! An Mbuna (Malawi Cichlid)? It too is incompatible with the barb,
Severums>
a Black-fin tetra, and the Arulius. I need to point out that
from
2011-2012 I developed Mycobacterium marinum from this tank after adding
a piece of driftwood I bought at a pet shop. I sawed off some tips after
it had swelled inside the tank, apparently got a sliver, and was on
antibiotics for 7 months after it took Henry Ford Hospital in Detroit 8
weeks to confirm the culture. So I figured it had been long enough, and
wanted to add more fish.
<Yeeikes!>
Within a week of adding this new batch (the driftwood was disposed of,
of course, and the tank cleaned), both Severum developed Ich.
<I see this in your pix>
The 6� one died within 3 days. At the time I noticed the Ich, I also
noticed that the water temp was only 70°. I bought a new heater & it is
now at 78°, though I've got it up as high as it can go, & it is designed
for a 50-gal aquarium. It appears that the Ich on the smaller Severum is
much better. He's recovering, I hope. But the photos below will show you
the red/orange growth on the Barbs mouth. Today he's acting listlessly,
hanging out at the top of the tank where there is the most water flow
coming from the bio-filter wheel.
Days 1-3: Removed carbon filter, added Malachite Green
<Need to raise water temp. into the mid 80's F. See WWM re treating FW
Ich>
On Day 2, I believe, the large Severum died
Day 4: water tested with Tetra Easy Strips
<Don't trust test strips... see WWM re...>
Nitrate=200
<... What? Are you a prankster? This is CRAZY high... see WWM...>
Nitrite=0
Hardness=300
Chlorine=0 (well water)
Total
Alkalinity=180
pH=8.4
<Too high... see...>
ammonia=0
Did 30%water change, suctioned the gravel, added salt, 2-day treatment
(48 hrs apart) of Super Fungus Cure and Super Ich Cure (API brand); I've
also added Tetra EasyBalance Plus the last 2 days.
<None of this medicine adding will do you or your livestock any
good until:
1) You remove/separate incompatible species
2) Raise temp.
3) Lower the NO3 below 20 ppm.
4) Lower pH...>
Carbon filter still removed; The water testing is not turning out any
different day by day, though I have only done the 1 water change. I
don't know how many/how often I should change it.
<Stop writing, and start READING>
A couple days ago the shark & catfish were gone, and today I noticed the 2
Zebra Tetras are also gone. Im losing fish like crazy
<.... you're good at buying things... a western consumer... not so good
at investigating before buying>
& don't know what to do.
<... I do>
Please advise, if you can.
Thank you very, very much for any help.
Pamela
Flint, MI
<Read on! Bob Fenner>
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Re: question about ugly red sore on Arulius Barb's mouth
1/27/14
Wow: thanks for the quick response to my urgent issue.
I apologize, but so much of your site is very technical &
difficult for me to understand.
<? <Keep reading... a bit at a time... address each issue I've
mentioned. Don't write: READ>
Having gone now about 8 years with this aquarium with no problems, I
thought I was doing fine. Moving from city water to a home with well
water, I thought had created a ton of problems for me. But the tap water
(using the test strips--I do not yet have a liquid test kit) shows
levels are perfect.
<.... STOP. 200 ppm of NO3 is not perfect>
The blue guy was identified as the Cobalt Zebra by the Cichlid Keepers
Facebook page by the attached photo I posted.
<... can't live w/ the other fishes listed>
So you're saying he's the first that's got to go, or the Arulius? If the
blue guy goes back to a fish store, I'm still left with no other tank
set up; what do I do with the barb for treatment?
<Read>
Today he's developed orange spots on his body. Is it safe to put him into
a heated, aerated bucket until he's healed, or are your 1) that he is
not going to heal anyway, or 2) chemical treatments aren't going to
work?
<No; read>
I changed about 30% of the water yesterday, and another 30% today.
<Read re NO3. BobF>
Oh--for feeding, I use Tetra Tropical Crisps, very light feedings.
Thanks again,
Pam
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Our fish are dying! Help! 8/21/12
Good evening! We searched your website and were unable to find an
appropriate article so we're hoping you can help us with our email. We
have a 15 gal tank, fresh water that's established and been running for
about 6 months now. We do a 25% water change every other week
and do
frequent water tests (always in range). But in the last week we've lost
3 fish (2 female Mickey's and a Zebra Danio) and 1 medium sized ghost
shrimp. The 2 male Mickey's have become reclusive in the last week too.
<Mmm, something... toxic going on in the tank here... from inside or
out... e.g. an ornament, mean tankmate... the tank being sprayed w/ an
ammoniated cleaner, being placed too near a kitty litter box... >
We currently have 3 Zebra Danios, 3 guppies (we can't remember what
kind), 1 ghost shrimp, 1 catfish, 1 male Sunburst wag, and the 2 male
Mickey's.
Everyone was happy and social until last week. We noticed that the
female Mickey's suddenly became anti-social and were hiding on the
bottom for a few days before they died. The Zebra Danio appeared fine;
until we found it dead tonight. Two of the guppies have "torn" tail fins
also. We've used CopperSafe twice
<Toxic... should have killed the shrimp outright>
in the last 2 months and use the aquarium salt
<Not a good idea either>
and water conditioner @ water changes and change the filter every 30 days.
We also have a slight abundance of small snails. We had an algae
eater
<?! What type? The common Chinese Algae Eater is a killer... See WWM re>
that grew really fast so we moved him into another tank about 2 weeks ago.
We're at a loss. We hate seeing our fish die. With the exception of the
catfish, shrimp and the algae eater...we brought home all the fish at
the same time. We've had the others for several months now too. Any
suggestions?????
<To keep doing the water changes, skip the salt and copper, read re the
CAE (and remove if this is Gyrinocheilus). Bob Fenner>
Kissing Gourami stopped kissing; Fancy
Guppy Bloated; Flame tetra Popeye and pimple; Where to go from here?
8/5/11
Your informative excellences~
<Never been called that before!>
Im afraid I may have caused a snail/copepods die off with
tetracycline
<Unlikely.>
(or killed my cycle with TC)
<Shouldn't do, if used correctly, but always a risk with
antibiotics.>
that caused an ammonia spike and foul water or stressed my fish out
with too many water changes or maybe because I switched from Stress
Coat to Start Right for a couple water changes or did this happen
because my filter overflowed all over the floor into the middle of the
night and left the filter exposed and killed my cycle,
<Yes, drying out the sponges will kill the bacteria. But if the
sponges are damp, the bacteria should survive.>
is it because my water is hard and my PH is high?
<Unlikely.>
So much has happened I just want to move everyone into my new 55 Gallon
but now Im afraid it will be too stressful on them or Ill just transfer
whatever is wrong with my 20 Gallon to my new tank. Please help..I will
welcome all insight..even though I have been scouring your sight for
the "answer" in the hopes that I would not have to make my
ordeal public and suffer the public flogging....I know I have made
mistakes, I now know Tetras thrive in softer water opposed to Guppies,
Mollies, and Platies.
<Yes, and it's quite difficult to keep both together without
problems. There *are* tetras that can live in hard water, but none
appreciate the salty water Mollies do best in, so on the whole, if you
want Mollies, set up a hard water tank for them and other hard water
fish.>
I know my tank is overstocked with the fry and juveniles which is why I
received the 55 Gallon, but am now hesitant to move everyone or
anyone.
<I see.>
Ill start at the beginning of my nightmare. Female bi-color(Gray and
Black) guppy birthed a batch of fry on June 26 th , 2011. She developed
a "gouge" on her back ( I imagine from being so pregnant and
not being able to maneuver herself very stealthily and being harassed
by the male Molly and Male Fancy Guppy) prior to birthing,
<Perhaps.>
but it healed with water changes and a little extra Stress Coat. I
think this may have been the entry point for the bacteria that
ultimately caused her demise. On July 11 th (Monday) she began acting
lethargic, hanging at the top and with a slight bend in her body, like
her tail was too heavy, almost like every movement was a chore. Her
appetite had not diminished, but since I've raised this fish I knew
there was something wrong.
<Guppies are not hardy, at least not the fancy Guppies most folks
keep. It's as well to remember that, and treat them carefully.
Indeed, they're often best kept ion a Guppy-only tank, or else with
a few very peaceful tankmates.>
Observing her from beneath and from the side I noticed that the scales
near her anal vent seemed raised, almost as if there was a bulge or
they were "ruffled" like feathers. I realized too late she
was beginning to bloat. She began to show signs of hemorrhagic
septicemia(lethargic, red streaking along lateral line and in fins) as
well as my Kissing Gourami, Albino Corydoras, and Black Skirt/Hi-Fin
Tetra (ripped, bloody tail and visible red lateral line).
<Now, if a bunch of fish show "red" on their fins and
body, Finrot is much more likely the problem, and Finrot almost always
follows water quality problems. So there's a two-step fix here:
undo the water quality problem, and then treat for Finrot. Treating
without fixing the water quality won't work, and when treating, you
need to remove carbon, if used, because that'll remove the
medication.>
It was harder to see the red streaks on Bi-Color because of her black
coloring. Bi-Colors scales began to raise on her back and tail and
began to be obvious when viewing from above. She was still eating but
had taken to resting on the bottom and breathing heavy(panting).
DROPSY!! I put her in a breeder net and in a panic added Pimafix and
Melafix until I could get better medications. I know it isn't
advised, but she looked so miserable.
<I understand. But really, stepping back and acting slowly is often
better.>
I did a 50% water change and she seemed happier and the Albino and
Gourami's streaking went away. I began treatment with Maracyn TC
and as I also noticed that one of my Flame Tetras had developed a dark
spot on his breast. I even administered a few Epsom salt baths to Ms
Bi-Color to try to help with the bloat(there is very conflicting
information on your site as to doses, whether it be for a dip or a bath
or to add to the tank). The fuse blew on the outlet that the power
strip for the filter and lights and heater are plugged in, but as soon
as I noticed(only a few hours at the most) I grabbed an extension cord
and got them plugged into a working outlet. The electrician came out on
Thursday. She was dead on Friday. I did a 25% water change and put new
carbon in the filter to try to get things back to normal and less
stress the healthy fish. On Tuesday(July 19 th ) before I turned the
lights on I observed the Flame Tetra swimming at an angle and in
circles as if he was trying to right himself and then the Fancy Male
two-dot began hiding and losing color near where his tail meets his
body and the bottom 1/4 of his tail and breathing heavy. I did a 25%
water change. On July 21 st (Thursday) the Male Fancy was still hiding
in back but was still eating and would come out and swim around from
time to time. On July 22 nd (Friday) he was still acting lethargic so I
did another 25% water change. He was still acting strange so on Sunday
I did a 50% water change but he was dead on Monday night. On July
28th(Thursday) one of the Molly/Guppy juveniles appeared to have Popeye
and a damaged gill on the same side..almost as if his skin was peeling.
I did a 25% water change and moved my Female Fancy Guppy to my
boyfriends tank to give her a rest from harassment. On July 29 th
(Friday) I found a Molly/Guppy juvenile dead for no apparent reason and
a different Flame Tetra had a mild case of Popeye in one eye but worse
in the other and Female Guppy had suffered quite the tail nip by my
boyfriends Serpae Tetras so I put her back in my tank and did a 25%
water change and added Epsom Salt for the Popeye. The next time I
looked at the tank Female Fancy Guppy was head down in the gravel
resting on a plant...I thought it may have been because of the loss of
the section of her tail fin because she was otherwise fine and when she
saw me resumed swimming normally. The next day(30th, Saturday), the
Tetras eyes were much improved as were the Guppy/Molly, but he had
taken to sitting on the gravel and had developed a white ring around
his eye and his bottom lip was quivering and moving up and down
continuously with white "spots" on them(Columnaris?).
<Yes, certainly possible.>
seemed to have trouble grazing or closing his mouth and wasn't
eating. It seemed to be painful to him. Which I felt warranted a 25%
water change while replacing the Epsom salt I removed and cleaned my
filter. On July 31 st (Sunday) I noticed the other Flame Tetra was
having trouble swimming again before lights on and appeared to have
developed lumps on either side of his head in the same location on both
sides. Where his "ears" would be behind the gills but up on
the lateral line. I did a 25% water change replacing the Epsom Salt I
removed with water change and the Molly/Guppy came out and ate with
everyone else..seemed promising. On Monday(August 1 st ) I awoke to my
tank being 30% empty because the filter overflowed onto the floor and
the Guppy/Molly with the Popeye was dead. I removed the deceased fish
and it was early morning so I refilled the tank with conditioned water
and removed the carbon form the filter so it would fit back in canister
and went back to sleep. When I awoke I realized that my Kissing Gourami
had stopped kissing and was just laying in one corner and the Giant
Danio had stopped swimming..he just hovered in mid-tank and stared and
the Black Kuhlii Loaches(2) were out during the day. Since my filter
had already done the unscheduled water change and I hadn't added
anymore Epsom Salt(Is it harmful to Kuhlii Loaches?) I thought I would
wait to see how everyone was doing in the morning. I was trying so hard
to avoid medications. I was so hoping good water conditions and water
changes would heal all. On August 2 nd (Tuesday), My Chinese Algae
Eater was dead!! Plus the one of the Flame Tetras bumps had become
almost pimple like as if something was protruding out of it. If I
didn't know better I would have thought it was bone, but could have
been fungus. I removed the corpse of the SAE, whom I have had forever
and never shown any signs of illness, and did a 50% water change. Kissy
still wasn't kissing and Hi-Fin Tetra had lost color that night. My
water became cloudy and a white cloudy film had started to develop on
the inside of the glass. I didn't know if it was a bacterial bloom
or if it was algae beginning to form since Kissy and the SAE
weren't doing their job anymore. On August 3 rd (Wednesday) nothing
had changed except another Molly/Guppy juvenile had developed the
"damaged" eye(all black with a white ring around it and
swollen) and gill and I felt with all the illnesses and unexplained
deaths and cloudy water and Female Fancy Guppy looking bloated and
having trouble staying level, with rapidly raising scales, and the
possible Columnaris on the juvenile and sore on the Tetra and Popeye on
the other Flame Tetra, that I had a bacterial problem. At my wits end,
and panicked, I did a 50% water change and added the first dose of
Mardel Maracyn 2(Minocycline) and Jungle's Parasite Clear
Tablets(Metronidazole, Praziquantel, Diflubenzuron, Acriflavine).
Within an hour Kissy had begun kissing again!! Female Guppy ate a some
medicated food(small bits of table shrimp(unthawed) in dissolved
Parasite Clear tablets and water) but was still very bloated and having
trouble keeping herself level and the Flame Tetras pimple had become an
open sore that white was visible in. Later on Wednesday night, I did an
Ammonia test which tested high(Danger 6.0) so I did a 50% water change
being careful to replace the same amount of medications that I had
removed and have ceased feeding. Again, Kissy began kissing again but
Female Fancy Guppy just seemed to get more bloated. Her scales were now
more visibly raised. On Thursday(August 4 th ) I awoke to find her
stuck to the intake of my filter...assuming she had passed away, I used
the net to pull her out but she waddled away and resumed her position
at the top of the tank. I administered the second dose of Maracyn 2 a
few hours later and the Molly/Guppy juvenile with the "eye
injury" seems to be doing better. The white on his bottom lip
seems to have "shrunk". No one else is showing any negative
signs. Later that night Female Fancy excreted a thick, solid, white,
puss like "log" from her anus and it seems to be coming out
of her birth canal as well. Her nipped tail heals more everyday,
however. Her scales are raising more every time I look it seems, so I
gave her a Epsom Salt bath, but I don't think my fish have time for
me to guess anymore..time to swallow my pride and ask for help from the
experts. While in the Epsom bath some of the white substance/feces came
loose and I was able to tweeze it out, and it was quite solid but not
alive. She still has some trailing from her, it is very thick. Could it
be puss from internal bacterial infection or dead rotting fry in her
uterus? Her poop looked normal yesterday and then connected to a white
string, but before it all came loose from her it was attached to an
orange jelly-like substance(like underdeveloped fry or eggs). Kissy is
more active but still not kissing like normal(perhaps bacterial
infection of her mouth?) and the Tetras bump/pimple/sore has lost the
white stuff(which seemed to be drawn out) and is somewhat of a pit. The
bump on the other side of his head is still just a bump(blood filled
perhaps). Today, August 5 th (Friday) everyone seems more active. Even
the Female Fancy Guppy. She seems oblivious to her now even more raised
scales(she is now developing a Mohawk and bubbles are resting in the
spaces in between her scales and her skin the spaces have become so
pronounced). She is still having trouble staying level, but isn't
just hanging at the top. Seems to be easier for her to maneuver her
bloated body, she isn't just floating around aimlessly. I gave her
an Epsom Salt bath(1tsp/Gallon of tank water for 30 minutes) this
morning and added the next dose of Maracyn 2 to the tank. Her tail
continues to heal. Even the injured Guppy/Molly juvenile seems less
"sore". The white stuff in his mouth isn't as swollen.
His lip is still quivering. The Flame Tetras sore seems to be shrinking
and healing. It is simply pink now and both bumps are subsiding. I had
thought about Lateral Line Erosion being a possibility, but are Tetras
afflicted by that?
<Not really, no.>
Is it possible that the physical damage to the Molly/Guppy juveniles
eyes are happening from the siphon tube I use to change water? At least
one of them always ends up in the bucket...I have since banded a guard
on the end so it won't happen anymore. Are they just prone to
illness/weaker because of the inter-breeding of the species?
<So long as the fish isn't physically damaged, being slurped up
a siphon doesn't seem to do any harm. Done this many times
myself!>
Can I use human Metronidazole?
<In theory, yes.>
I have 500mg tablets I could crush. Is it absolutely horrible that I
used two medications at the same time. I'm not sure which is
helping the most or at all or if the rejuvenation is in direct
correlation to the water changes.
<I would not do this though.>
I just want to be a good mother to the animals in my care. I had really
hoped I could save everyone through better water quality, but I seem to
need more help than that. I feel like an absolute failure and am so
frustrated.
<Don't be. This is fixable.>
Is it ok to move the healthy fish to the new 55 Gallon or will it be to
stressful or will the illnesses just continue in there? Where do I go
from here? I will be implementing a fishless cycle, of course, using
filter media from an established healthy tank to seed the new filter
and the same substrate(after a thorough gravel vac) and plants from the
20 Gallon, unless you advise against it. Im afraid my 20 Gallon will be
a hospital tank for awhile before everyone can enjoy the new digs in
the 55 G. I had planned to run both filters on the 55 Gallon to help
seed new filter but, now the beneficial bacteria in the 20 Gallon
filter will be nuked by the medications, I imagine. So, I'll have
to do some juggling with filter media from my boyfriends tank because
he has two filters running at all times.
<A good approach. Yes, you can transfer live media from one tank to
another. But the risk, of course, is you can transfer diseases too, so
don't put your media in his filter.>
Tank of Death is a 20 Gallon community tank that I also used as a sorts
of snail "holding" tank for my GS Puffer to eat.
<These are brackish water puffers and won't live for long in
freshwater.>
As the poor dears won't last five minutes in the Puffer tank. I
haven't added any new snails since March 1 st , 2011. It has been
up since January 4 th , 2011. I did a fishless cycle with a piece of
table shrimp and filter media from existing tank. The last new fish I
added was a Mellini Corydoras on April 15 th , 2011. The residents are
a bunch of rejects of sorts that became too big for my boyfriends tank
or didn't get along with a resident in his tank. It was not a
planned community. He is not the researcher I am. There are some live
plants and some fake plants. I add Stress Coat to tap water at water
changes. I used Start Right for a few in there when I had run out of
Stress Coat and had to use my boyfriends Start Right. I was adding
1drop/10 Gallons of Kent Iodide for Calcium for the snails to thrive
but have not added it since July 17 th . I came across an FAQ where the
poster was advised to remove a decorative shell from the aquarium as it
leeched minerals into the water, and I have a few decorative shells
that should sufficiently provide Calcium for the snails. I also have a
few "caves" constructed out of what I assume to be limestone
tiles, broken up and assembled. It's a pebble substrate with an
18" bubble wand and a bubbler tube that use to have an air stone
on it but, it crumbled away, for aeration and movement. I am still
using the filter that came with the kit(Im sure its inadequate for the
bioload, but it will help in the 55 Gallon). I feed TetraMin Tropical
Flakes, TetraColor Tropical Flakes, Tetra Baby Shrimp(sun dried), Tetra
Bloodworms(freeze dried),and drop in Hikari Algae Wafers for the
Corydoras and Gourami..not all at the same time, but just so you get an
idea of what goes in my tank. Only enough so that it is all gone almost
immediately. I am even careful to watch that what food does sink the
Tetras and Corydoras catch it. I do 25%-50% water changes weekly and
rinse the filter cartridge in old tank water. New water is always
conditioned and as close to temperature of remaining water as possible.
I only have Jungle Quick Dip Test strips for Ammonia and "5 tests
in 1". I have ordered a liquid test kit online. Should I be using
a high range test kit to get more accurate readings?
Today's readings:
Ammonia .25
Nitrate <20
<These two why your fish are dying.>
Nitrite 0
GH 300
KH >300
PH >8.4
<Quite hard. Tetras and Corydoras probably won't be happy here,
no matter what, so I'd return these to the pet store. But Mollies,
Guppies, and other hard water fish should be fine.>
Tap water reads:
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
<Note this! The ammonia and nitrite are coming from the fish. The
tank is overstocked, overfed, and/or under-filtered.>
GH 150
<The higher General Hardness in the aquarium water compared to tap
water presumable reflects the Epsom salt usage. Stop with this! Just do
a series of 20% water changes for the next five days, each day, until
the aquarium GH value is approximately that of your tap water. Epsom
salt won't be doing much helpful here.>
KH >300
PH >8.4
I think that is everything...I know you will not be shy about letting
me know about my short comings and where I've made mistakes and
things that need to change so my 55 Gallon will be the heaven I
envision for my li'l buddies. I eagerly await your evaluation and
subsequent advice that will follow.
Thank you in advance~
Candy
<Well, Candy, the fixes are these: Remove fish you can't keep
(the ones that need soft water). Return aquarium water chemistry to
normal by stopping with the Epsom salt and additions of any other types
of salt (aquarium salt for example). Remove carbon, if used, so you can
use medications reliably. You're dealing with bacteria infections
caused by stress, likely Finrot and/or Columnaris, so medicate
accordingly. Stop feeding the fish until ammonia and nitrite are ZERO.
Check the filter is set up properly, and adequate for the task at hand.
Sit back and DON'T add any more fish for AT LEAST six weeks after
the last fatality. Buy or borrow a good aquarium book, and read it.
Feel free to write us back if you need more help. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Kissing Gourami stopped kissing; Fancy Guppy Bloated; Flame
tetra Popeye and pimple; Where to go from here? 8/5/11
Good Evening~
I knew you guys were fast, but that's ridiculous...45 minutes is an
amazing response time!! Freaky Fast!!
<Glad to help.>
Thank you so much for the guidance. I just wanted to clarify a few
points:
Am I to stop medicating for the five days I perform the water changes
(Get the water quality back to optimal and then medicate)?
<You can add each day's portion of medication immediately after
each water change. In practise, medicines "fade out" within
24 hours, so provided you wait that long between water changes, the
medicine should do its job.>
Or continue medicating and just add the new dose of medication with the
new water? What type of medication will be most effective here? Should
I finish the Mardel Maracyn 2(Minocycline) course of treatment with the
Parasite Clear or is there something better suited for my situation? I
am 3 days through the five day course for Maracyn 2. Furan 2, perhaps?
Erythromycin?
<Finish the medication you're on, certainly. Now, Maracyn 1 and
Maracyn 2 treat different sets of bacteria, and sometimes bacteria that
aren't killed by one of these medication gets killed by the other.
So one strategy is to use the two of them, one after the other, as
complementary medications.>
I removed the carbon from my filter cartridge before I began
administering the Maracyn 2 on August 3rd. Today I pulled the filter
out and rinsed the impeller (I wanted to make sure it wasn't
clogged or had hair wrapped around it or any other obstruction that
would cause diminished performance. Disgusting!
<A good sign that the filter is overwhelmed by the weight/number of
fish in the tank.>
So I hope that helps a little with the Ammonia and Nitrates(lot of
white, hair-like, smelly stuff).
<This slime is bacteria. Not disease bacteria, but decay bacteria,
like you'd find in sewage pipes.>
I have not fed since Wednesday(August 3rd) and have done 2-50% water
changes and a 25% today. So, in theory, any salt ,Epsom or otherwise,
should be just about gone. Should I do more water changes/day, beyond
the 20% prescribed, if I notice the fish are distressed, well, more
than they are now? Like darting or gasping at surface? Or will the 20%
be sufficient?
<Yes, if the fish are distressed, you can change up to 50% of the
water at once. Alternatively, and perhaps more safely, you could do
two, three or four 20% water changes per day, each an hour or two
apart.>
Puffer has his own Brackish tank. He is very vibrant, responsive and
active. All tanks have heaters on them set at around 76 degrees F..I
have removed the Corydoras from the tank as suggested.
<Cool. As it happens, the hardy species, like Corydoras paleatus and
Corydoras aeneus, can do well in "liquid rock" hard water.
But most are pretty unhappy in such conditions.>
I was making things way more complicated. Thanks for simplifying the
solution and not being too harsh!
<You're welcome. And you got me on a good day. Sometimes we do
get a little snappy, I admit!>
IYO, could I have saved myself a lot of misery and fishy lives if I had
completed the Mardel Maracyn TC(Tetracycline) course of treatment in
the first place?
<Impossible to say. I certainly wouldn't worry about this
question. The disease is/was caused by environmental stress,
specifically water quality, likely aggravated by the very hard water
chemistry. Fix this side of the equation, and disease shouldn't be
a major problem again.>
Just for future reference. Hope to hear back from you soon so I can
move forward with any additional suggestions.
Confident things will improve~
Candy
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Kissing Gourami stopped kissing; Fancy Guppy Bloated; Flame tetra
Popeye and pimple; Where to go from here? 8/7/11
Hope you are doing well today~
<Not bad, not bad at all.>
Female Fancy Guppy passed away last night(11:27pm CST; RIP Big Mama).
Sadly.
<Too bad.>
She was on of my first fish when I started with my 5G well over a year
ago now. She lost all ability to level herself and was head down in the
gravel. I imagine that with her bloated abdomen it became too much of a
struggle to balance it out with her tail. It was truly a troubling
site. Her scales were protruding so much that she had to be
uncomfortable and the other fish had started picking off her scales.
Miserable to watch. I secluded her in a breeder box so she could have
some peace, and soon after, she was gone:-(
<Do review euthanasia; 30 drops of clove oil in a litre of aquarium
water, stir well, then dunk the fish in for 10-15 minutes. Will die
painlessly.>
I have Erythromycin, which is essentially Maracyn(?), so it's good
to know that if the Maracyn 2 does not clear everything up I am safe to
use the Erythromycin for the Columnaris/Bacterial infection/Fin
rot(Ugh..that sounds horrible!). Can I just start administering the
Erythromycin (Maracyn) or do I have to get the Minocycline (Maracyn 2)
out first?
<Erythromycin isn't as useful as it once was'¦ much
bacteria resistance. If you have Minocycline, I'd go with that
first.>
If more than one 20% water change/day is necessary should I be
concerned about keeping the level of medication constant, by adding
more, or should I be more concerned with water quality?
<Don't worry about either. As I tried to explain, if you add the
medication at, say, 8 AM, then if you do a water change at 7:55 AM the
next day, the medication will have been "used up" anyway, so
you can go ahead and add another dose for Day 2 after that water
change. Of course, the ideal is to do no water changes while
medicating, but if you have non-zero nitrite and ammonia levels, you
may not have that option.>
My instinct, and perhaps common sense, is telling me to worry more
about water quality since that was the catalyst for this dilemma in the
first place, but I also don't want to render the medication
pointless. Now that Female Fancy Guppy has passed the medication
isn't as urgent of a part of the equation with the other afflicted
members are on the mend.
<Indeed. If all the other fish lack symptoms, so you can assume are
basically healthy, then no, you don't need to medicate, and yes,
you can do water changes and concentrate on fixing water quality
issues.>
So did I make another fatal mistake by removing the "sewage"
slime from my impeller and motor? Ugh.. Please tell me I did not get
rid of MORE essential, good bacteria!!
<No, the good bacteria are in the filter media (sponges, ceramic
noodles, etc.). Provided these are rinsed carefully you won't
remove the bacteria (squeeze them out in buckets of aquarium water
until they're basically clean, and enough bacteria will remain to
do the job perfectly).>
Today after the water change my Ammonia is still dangerously high(dark
green),
<Not good. Do check your tap water as well, some tap water contains
ammonia. If you have ammonia in your tap water, you'll want to use
a water conditioner that neutralises it (choose a brand that fixes
chlorine, Chloramine, ammonia and copper). Next up, if your tap water
has no ammonia but your aquarium does, then the problem is the number
of fish and/or the amount of feeding and/or lack of adequate
filtration.>
but my Nitrates
<Nitrite or nitrate? They're different.>
are negligible (barely turned the pad color at all). I'll do
another 20% after I send this.
<Cool.>
My new 55G is set up and the filters are running. Ammonia is showing up
and a tinge of Nitrates. At this point, with my 20G being so toxic
I'm tempted to put a fish in for some relief and clean water..but
would that be out of the fire and into the frying pan?
<Hmm'¦ I'd be tempted to move all the fish to the 55
gallon, and bolt both filters onto that aquarium if possible. If
nothing else, the same number of fish in an aquarium 2.25 times larger
will mean you will cut your ammonia levels by more than half. A
win!>
I am seeding the filters with filter media from a healthy tank, but
understand this can take awhile. I'm also dropping pinches of fish
food in to feed the bacteria in the filter media. Any other suggestion
to speed cycling? I don't want to use anything from my
"sick" tank for fear of spreading the bad bacteria. Anything
from my Brackish tank would be useless because it is different
bacteria, correct?
<Depends on the salinity; from SG 1.000-1.005, you basically have
freshwater filter bacteria, so you could move some media from the
brackish tank if necessary. But may not be necessary.>
What is your experience with the bottled bacteria?
<Very variable.>
Dr Tim's One and Only or Hagen's/Nutrafin's Cycle or
Bio-Spira? I assume not to rely on these alone, despite what the claims
are, but could they be of some help here to speed things up?
<Yes, they can speed things up, and if your medications have hit the
bacteria badly, then these might help undo some damage.>
Thank you so much for not getting snappy with me. I've seen some
responses from you with ALL CAPS and your blood pressure rising and had
prepared myself for such a reply. I've read so many of your
articles and answers to FAQ's I almost feel like I'm
"speaking" to a celebrity..I'm a bit star-struck to be
honest!!
<Don't be.>
Thank you, again, for your time. I bet you are getting sick of me~
Candy
<Always glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Kissing Gourami stopped kissing; Fancy Guppy Bloated; Flame
tetra Popeye and pimple; Where to go from here? 8/7/11
Good day to you~
Thank you so much for your time!
<Most welcome.>
I was in the process of getting water icy to euthanize, but she was
gone before I was satisfied it was cold enough to do the job quick and
painlessly. Wonderful article on euthanasia. I can't find a
pharmacy that carries clove oil.
<Hmm'¦ do ask for Eugenol instead, it's
"scientific" name. It's widely used for toothache, and
may be sold through health food shops as well as drugstores. If all
else fails, a quick look at Amazon saw it being sold for the princely
sum of $5.00.>
I will finish the Minocycline course.
<Cool.>
I meant Nitrates were negligible..My Nitr"i"tes have been 0
through this entire ordeal...its the Nitrites with the "I"
that are deadly, correct?
<Yes.>
Even in a small amount. I think my problem is with ammonia. I tested my
tap and it is in the dangerous area... 6.0.
<Yikes! This is most commonly the case in places near agriculture.
Run-off from intensive farming pollutes the water table. But note also
that Chloramine can register as ammonia, a "false positive"
of sorts. As Chloramine it is toxic to the fish in itself, but once you
use dechlorinator not designed for Chloramine, you end up with ammonia
that poisons the fish like "regular" ammonia. As you can see,
there's much value in just ignoring all of this and buying a water
conditioner that tackles everything right out of the bottom, i.e.,
chlorine, Chloramine, ammonia, and copper.>
I regularly use Doc Wellfish Stress Coat and Jungle's Start Right,
both say they remove harmful chemicals, but nothing of ammonia or
copper..just chlorine and Chloramine..actually Stress Coat just says it
removes harmful chemicals and not which ones...I've always used
them without incident. I did order Prime when this problem became
seriously out of hand, however. I have heard good things. Could you
recommend anything?
<In the US, a popular brand for this is Ammo-Lock.>
My Brackish tanks salinity is at 1.010 so it's of little use in
helping cycle my freshwater tropical tank, correct?
<Correct. You have more or less saltwater bacteria in there now,
which is neat if you ever decide to set up a reef tank...>
I raised the salinity over weeks and weeks to ensure the correct
bacteria would be present.
<Cool.>
Have moved some fish to the 55G(Juveniles that were born in the 20G and
are strong and active and very healthy), but have left "sick"
fish(lethargic, white "mustache", sores, PopEye, etc..) in
the 20G and done water changes as needed. I can't bolt the filter
from the 20G on the 55G quite yet because I still need the bio filter
from that filter on the 20G for the sick fish. I expect a quick
recovery without all of the extra waste products from the extra
bio-load. Could I maybe cut the bio sponge in half and use half in the
20G and half in the 55G to seed the filters on the 55G? Just trying to
get creative and make sure everyone is happy. Any suggestions are
welcome.
Persevering~
Candy
<Sounds like you're doing the right things. Go slow, move
healthy fish to the bigger tank as soon as practical, use water changes
to offset any problems with water quality across the next couple weeks,
and everything should work out. Yes, you can cut sponges in half. A
good thing to remember is that you can remove up to 50% of the mature
media from a working filter without compromising its ability to clean
aquarium water. Any new media you put back in that filter will very
quickly, within days really, be fully colonised, and you shouldn't
see any water quality problems. The live media you removed can seed a
new filter or aquarium, and if you transfer enough live media this way,
i.e., enough to half-fill the recipient filter on the new tank,
you're basically instantly maturing it and can (should!) add some
small, hardy fish to keep the filter bacteria well fed with ammonia.
Anyway, off on my holiday tomorrow for the next week, but hope to hear
good things when I return. Good luck, Neale.>
Outbreak Please Help! :( (Sick Bala Sharks and others;
RMF, anything else?)<<No>>
4/14/2011
Hi, I currently have two tanks. One 55 gallon with two platys 4 silver
dollars and 3 Bala sharks (two now),
<This tank is overstocked; at least, it will be once the Silver
Dollars and Bala Sharks are anything above, say, 10 cm/4 inches in
length. Bala Sharks in particular are sensitive fish that don't do
well in small tanks.
Realistically, you need a tank above 100 gallons for these
fish.>
I also had an albino rainbow in the same tank but have moved him to a
separate 20 gallon due to aggression.
<Not uncommon; while Rainbow Sharks are considerably less aggressive
than Red-Tail Black Sharks, they're still territorial, and can be
very aggressive towards fish that have a similar shape, including Bala
Sharks.>
The other tank is a 30 gallon tall with platys, guppies and tetras in
it, it is a bit overcrowded but I am doing weekly partial changes to
keep it operational. All water parameters appear to be ok.
<I do need the actual values rather than your interpretations of
them.>
The 55 gallon rose suspicion three days ago when my Bala (he passed
today) developed a white patch from the center of his body to his tail,
his scales seemed to be falling off and there was redness near his tail
and top fin.
<Sounds very much like Finrot. With Bala Sharks this can be caused
by poor environmental quality generally, but physical damage through
jumping into the hood or striking against objects in the tank is a very
major risk.>
I started treating with Maracyn one and two day before yesterday and
now there is one to two white spots on a couple of the fish appears to
be Ick.
Can I treat for Ick while continuing treatment for columnaris or fungus
at the same time?
<In theory, yes; but it does depend on the medication being used. As
a broad piece of advice, using the Salt/Heat method for Whitespot is
the safest approach, and works 100% reliably with Finrot medications.
Once you start using Formalin and Copper-based medications, things
become less predictable.>
The 30 gallon tank was ok (both have been set up for over a year) until
I adopted a neighbors 4 platy's because I felt sorry for their
living conditions. Now one of my mother guppies has white spots on her
mouth tail and has mucusy feces, she appears to be red under the
scales.
<Again, a fairly common reaction to poor environmental conditions.
Since Platies require hard water while Bala Sharks need soft water,
it's also impossible to discount water chemistry issues. When
Platies are kept in soft water they are very prone to systemic
bacterial infections of the sort likely causing problems here.>
My tetras seem fine as well as some of the guppies and platy's
while others seem to be wasting.
<See above.>
I only noticed this today and have treated with 2 drops of quick cure
per gallon of water because the tetras are in there I had it sitting
around, I bought more Maracyn one and two today and a new bottle of Ick
cure (Maracide) and am unsure what to do from here as I do not want to
over medicate.
<Over-medicating my well be an issue, but medicating without
determining precisely what the problems are will also lead to
frustration.>
If you can help at all I would greatly appreciate it I love my fishies
a lot and do not want to lose them. I can send pictures if you wish to
see more. I am also going to check parameters again. Please Help
<Do review the needs of ALL your fish species, be objective about
how well your tanks match these requirements, and act accordingly.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: My fish are dying 1/9/11
More details...
Nitrite=0, nitrate=10, Ph=8.0, Alkaline=200, Hardness=25-75. Does this
Ph seem too high?
<For some fishes yes... see the Net re the species you keep... their
ranges>
Changed out about 15% of the water, replaced with water from outside
faucet (not connected to water softener).
<Good>
I thought I was doing better, but then there were some more fishy
deaths.
Molly and two more cardinals. Saw more clues, though. Molly developed a
deformed spine, twisted into shape of an "S". Cardinals were
both covered with white hairy fuzz.
<Environmental... the decomposers are secondary>
I didn't see this on them when they were alive, so it could have
formed after their death. The Silver Molly's tail has been rotting
off...I assumed it was "fin rot", but today noticed that the
fuzz is also covering the end of her body where tail was.
Fish store sold me Tetra Lifeguard All in One treatment. Looks like it
cures just about everything.
<...>
I am a little concerned though about treating what may not be there. If
it is a fungus, should I use something that is specific to fungus? From
what I can tell, it doesn't look bacterial. Of course, I'm not
much of an expert. if I were, I would have a lot more live fish right
now. :-(
<... Let me try again to be more clear. Your root problem is a poor
mix of species of different needs AND poor water quality>
I put in some aquarium salt
<... dismal. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/SaltUseFWArtNeale.htm
they sold me, and put some stuff in to lower the Ph. Will these things
help?
<Not likely; esp. w/o reading, understanding on your part...
>
I feel like I'm just shotgunning this
<Oh, you are. Assuredly. >
with to many things without being sure any of it is the right thing to
do.
Please help... :-(
<Only you can help yourself. Read where you've been referred to.
Learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM, perhaps better still,
invest in an overall general freshwater aquarium book. You NEED an
overall understanding of this field... not to listen to any
one/all's input and live your aquatic life in a reactionary sense.
Understand? BobF>
Black calvus breathing really hard
for air 03/19/2008 I bought a black calvus and it is breathing
really hard for air. <... Mmm, all fishes (in fact all livestock) is
damaged, stressed in shipping/moving... hence one part of the
suggestion to quarantine, allow it to "rest up" before being
placed in a community setting where it may be harassed, have to compete
too hard for food...> I put him in well established tank, 80 degrees
PH 7.9 nitrites and nitrates are in a normal parameters. <... need
data, not subjective evaluations> The other cichlids he is with are
doing fine and breathing normal. He just sits on the substrate doing
nothing. He does not have any signs of disease no white spots or no
cloudy eyes all fins are good he sits right side up no swaying or
anything what do you think Troy <... Read more widely on the Net re
fish physiology, husbandry, particularly the value of quarantine...
there is very likely nothing "wrong" with this Cichlid than
that it's new. Bob Fenner>
FW... Ich, Guppy dis., using WWM
2/13/08 Exactly 2 weeks and a day ago, I bought 4 fish from
PetSmart. 2 Fancy Guppies (Male is, I don't know about female) and
2 Chinese Algae Eaters. <Do read re this fish, Gyrinocheilus... very
mean... don't eat much algae...> I put all four fish in Wardley
Essentials Ick Away in a 3 gallon tank <Mmm, too small, and why the
medication?> for 3 days. At the end of the 3 days, <Not long
enough to treat an actual case of ich...> the male guppy and
C.A.E.'s were moved to the community tank (10 gallon; four 1 inch
swordtails <Will need more room than this> and some sort of
snail) The female was moved into a 1 gallon hospital tank and treated
for Ick <If one fish has ich... they all, the system does...>
with the medicine I mentioned. For 2 weeks and 1 day now, she
doesn't get better or worse. Her top fin is clamped and her color
has faded. She eats A LOT. <A good sign> All the fish food and
frozen bloodworms and everything. She is also pregnant. She swims like
normal, but breathes rapidly. She's always breathed fast, opening
and closing her mouth. The swords don't breathe with their mouths
open, but maybe guppies do. (These are my first guppies) I'm
totally out of ideas. <I'd be reading on WWM re...> This
doesn't look like any disease people have ever mentioned. They say
that the fish stops eating. Mine doesn't. (Oh, and the edge of her
tail looks like it was traced with something white. <... reads like
a case of Columnaris... Chondrococcus...> (The edge of her tail is
white)) When she swims all fins are erect, but when she drops down her
top fin droops. I don't see any parasites on her body. I've
also heard something about giving egg yolk to fish. (I can't find
the website again.) Please help. Any help at all will be much
appreciated. <Read, on WWM, the Net re... Bob Fenner>
Prophylactic treatment 1/10/07 Hello
Crew, <Hey Eric, JustinN with you today.> Thanks for answering my
past questions and thanks again for taking the time to read this one (
and hopefully answer it ). <Thanks for the kind words, we answer all
that we receive (when our mail server troll doesn't consume
them!)> I quarantine all new additions to my tank ( learned the hard
way a couple of years back ) for a couple of weeks at the minimum.
<Good to hear. We all learn the hard way at some point in time.>
Initially I treat them prophylactically with a regimen recommended by a
fellow aquarist who works in ichthyologic research. He recommends (
after I told him that I lost a batch of cardinal tetras in quarantine )
that I treat new additions prophylactically with the following regimen
- Nitrofurazone ( I use Furan-2 as per instructions which are one
tablet/10 gallons every other day for four days with a water change
after each 2nd dose), followed by malachite green ( as per dosage on
bottle ) for three treatments every other day. He also recommended (
especially for cardinals ) an anti-bacterial food and an initial bath
in Praziquantel if available. I always like to get additional opinions
before making a decision so what do you think of this regimen ? Thanks,
Eric <This sounds like a very harsh regimen of unnecessary
medications. I much prefer the idea of perhaps a quick Methylene blue
dip en route to an extended quarantine (3-4 weeks) to watch for any
signs of ill effects, and then only after diagnosis follow with proper
treatment. It just seems to me you're forcing the new additions to
harden up in potentially toxic conditions, surely making the task
harder. After the rigors of shipping and changing of hands, these
little guys could usually sure use some TLC (tender love and care) when
they first reach you! Hope this helps you! -JustinN>
Hello, hello, my Tiger Barbs are going oh!
11/27/06 Dear fish experts please help, <Will
try> I tried to take pics of my poor poor tiger
barbs...but none turned out well enough to bother. My tank is a 40
gallon, I have to <two?> very old golden gouramis and 2 old
silver dollars and two new ones, a Plecostomus, and I had 6 tiger
barbs, I'm down to 4... I'm new at the whole
aquarium thing I didn't know about water changes, I wished I had
done more research.. <How about now?> anyhow my tiger barbs were
great happy and brought so much life to my tank. after having them for
3 days I wake up to see 2 of them with their mouths and little faces
all red and puffy and swollen. No white fuzz or any fin or body
problems. but their mouths in very bad shape over night! so
I ran immediately to the pet store and told them my fishes faces looked
terrible like they were falling off, they the women told me to put malefix <... Melafix? The Melaleuca "tea" leaf extract
product from AP> in the tank and this would fix them up <No>
and to do a water change before and after 25%. <Good idea> I did
this 3 days go by. None of them die and they are still trying very hard
to eat and seem pretty active, but no change and I notice now 4 have
this. so I call a couple pet stores ask when this will start to improve
tell them the situation, and they say a week or two, and read the same
thing on line. (though I still keep hearing that they should have some
white fuzz on them, and they must have been fighting - which neither is
the case), anyhow I get worried and they look so horrid, that I risk
the worst one to stress and take him and some water into the pet store
to test it and look at him. I have one guy look at my poor
fave fish and make a disgusted face and get the other guy. He says to
add Maracyn 2 <Better "shot in the dark" here> to the
tank and keep doing the Melafix (that all the MelaFix was doing is
keeping it from spreading to other fish)... <Not even this> he
didn't tell me what my fish had and I had to chase him to ask
questions... so disappointed and 25$ later I get my fish
home and they didn't do a water test he said there was no point and
it happened because I didn't do a water change soon enough...which
he was so condescending I wanted to cry I feel bad enough...
well I get home return the very ill fish and add the 8 tabs
of Maracyn like the guy said, and an hour later my fish died. I knew
the stress may get him... <Yes> but then within the
next 2 hours another one died, and now I have another I'm sure will
be dead soon. I'm sorry, but my question is, what do I
do to try and save my poor 4 remaining tiger barbs, and what the heck
is this and what can I do to save them, I'm so at a loss! I
don't want this to happen ever again to any fish I get (which will
be a long time). please any info, thx so much, I hope you
return my email, I need answers. Tammy <Well... let's start
somewhere toward a beginning here Tam... You need to know, supply
information re your water quality... pH, ammonia and more are really
the likely root cause of your problem here. Please take the time to
read on WWM re... starting here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdis3setsfactors.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Preventive measures for new freshwater fish? -
04/22/2006 Hi, <<Hi, Jon. Tom>> I've seen articles
that suggest preventive measures that can be used with newly acquired
saltwater fish to prevent transferring disease and parasites to the
main tank (such as freshwater/chemical dips) but I haven't seen any
suggestions for freshwater fish except to quarantine the fish in a
separate tank and waiting to see if they become ill. Are there any
preventive treatments that I should be using for my freshwater fish?
<<Good question, Jon. Understand that many (most) SW varieties
are captured in the wild while many FW fish are farm-bred, depending,
of course, on the type of fish that we're talking about. (Not
trying to "waffle" on you but it's the nature of the
hobby. :)) Farm-bred fish (from reputable breeders) are less likely to
carry the types of parasitic/bacterial infections that might be
introduced into your aquarium from a 'natural' habitat.
Additionally, breeders who routinely ship "sick" fish
don't stay in business for long so it's incumbent upon them to
maintain healthy stock. The best preventive treatment, in my opinion,
is to quarantine all fish - SW and FW, alike - in the same conditions
that you will have in the display tank. Now, this will require research
on the part of the aquarist. You've done yours so I don't have
to tell you that introducing Goldfish, for example, into a QT set up
with Cichlid-type water parameters will lead to problems. Nothing,
however, that I've ever come across regarding FW fish has
conclusively shown a "preventive measure" that completely
ensures a disease-free animal. The "upshot" here, Jon, is
that quarantine for a good, two-week period for your FW fish, with
close observation, is the best route to take. (Note that even the
preventive measures you noted with SW fish don't relieve us of the
responsibility to quarantine.)>> Thanks, Jon <<Any time.
Tom>>
Urgent help
needed with Ick problem! <Actually... much larger, wider issues>
7/20/05 Hey guys, I need some help. I have a 39 gallon
tank with two blue whale catfish, two iridescent sharks, one Bala shark
and a plucko. <Heee, Pleco> The problem is that the
cycle is not completed, the tank is about a month old. <Ooops...
what are these fish doing in a non-cycled system?> Last night I
realized that one of the iridescent sharks had what I think is
Ick. He looks all white and slimy and his eyes are even
white. I went to the fish store and I got some stuff called
"cycle" that is supposed to accelerate the process.
<BioSpira would be better> I also go this medication called
"Quick Cure". <Yikes, very toxic...> My questions are,
first, the "Quick Cure" for Ick I bought said its wasn't
safe for baby whales. Are my blue whale catfish safe then. I didn't
use it yet... I'm afraid that the other fish in the tank will; get
sick, and I'm afraid to use the medication because of the blue
whale catfish. What do I do now? Thanks a whole
lot! Stephanie <... you have a few profound problems here. First,
the mix of fishes you list are not compatible... Please use WWM search
tool (on the homepages, indices) to read re their compatibility, system
needs... Second, your system is not cycled... Use WWM... next,
you've set about actually poisoning them further with a product
that is based on a biocide (formalin)... you can read about this on WWM
as well.... I do wish we could start "at the beginning" and
help you set up your system, wait... At this point I would ask your LFS
to take back and have them treat your fishes... dump, bleach your tank
and all the gear in it... let it sit a week with nothing in it, and
start with means to cycle it w/o fish life... Read my friend. Bob
Fenner>
Please help me! ... Five gallon
mis-stocked, sick/mis-treated, feeling, not thinking, acting Hello.
I recently bought a five gallon tank, a pink kissing gourami <Gets
way too big for this size tank> , and several platies. The platies
have died, I returned them, and my new ones are sick. I've
separated the gourami and three newborn platies from the sick ones. One
platy has cloud eye, one ich, and the other dropsy. <Please read re
these diseases (use the search tool) on WWM> I've treated them
with what I can get - Ick Away; contains malachite green. The other is
some tablet B.S. called Fungus Clear. These fish have been quarantined
for a few days, and are getting worse. Also, will it be safe
(after the fish die or get better) to put the gourami and baby plats
back in the five gal. tank till the gourami gets bigger? <Not a good
idea... not very compatible...> I need someone to help me, before I
freak out and have a nervous break down over a group of fish! Thanks.
<Study my friend... think... stop emoting. Bob Fenner>
Unexplained Death Hi sir/madam, Our female
Luohan was about 3 years old. She was very healthy, laying her eggs
routinely, good colouration, and eating normally. When BAM! We found
her lying dead and white on the aquarium floor this evening. We
don't know what happened. Why did she die suddenly and apparently
without any external cause? She did not have any sores/ pop-eye/
infection. She was just normal and healthy as always. Hope you can help
us find the answer to her sudden death. Thanks, Amina and Naseer.
<There is no way for anyone to tell you what happened without any
clues. But I would check for ammonia and nitrite in the water. I would
do a large water change just in case. Don>
Fresh Water Problems WWM FAQ Crew wrote:
Stop shouting! Please re-key and re-send your message NOT IN ALL
CAPS! I was not shouting. Do sharks, angelfish,
swordtails and mollies or platys go in a tank together? < Depending
on the type of sharks you have, the rest should go together ok. Check
out your sharks at fishbase.org and see what they say.> Also, how
long do you treat ich.? < Depending on the directions on the
medication and the temperature I would treat ich for at least three
days and maybe up to seven depending on the dosage.> If my sharks
have Popeye will the rest get it? < Pop eye is an internal bacterial
condition that is usually brought on by stress and waste pollution. I
would recommend a 30% water change, vacuuming the gravel and cleaning
the filter, prior to medicating with Metronidazole. It is usually not
associated with being contagious but if the tank conditions are similar
then you can assume others will get sick too.> I have a 55 gallon do
you have to put salt in the aquarium? < Absolutely not. This is an
old time medication that provides and additional slime coat on the fish
but healthy fish don't need it.> I am having a lot of problems
please help. < That is what we are here for.> I have a algae
eater and am using ick medications now. Thanks <Cleaning the tank
will help. After the ich is cured I would add Bio-Spira by Marineland
to re-establish the good bacteria to break down the fish waste. I would
generally recommend that you feed your fish only enough food so that
all of it is gone in two minutes once each day. Do a 30% water change
once a week and either clean the filter of vacuum the gravel during the
water change. By just doing these things will greatly improve your
success rate with your aquarium. You are not alone and there are
already numerous answers to questions like yours that already exist on
the web site. Take a little time and search through the site for lots
of helpful info.-Chuck>
Parasites, Bacteria, Plants, Shrimp Hi guys, <Kevin>
When I suspect that multiple freshwater fish have contracted both a
parasite AND a bacteria, and they are in a live, well-planted aquarium
that also contains delicate invertebrates (shrimp), what the heck do I
do? <If there is some notion that you actually want to
"treat" them with toxic medicines or engage in some sort of
environmental manipulation (e.g. high temperature, salt use...) and the
plants, invertebrates, fishes won't tolerate these conditions...
separate them into treatment tanks> The standard approaches are
blocked at every turn. The fish are too wily and too numerous to be
caught and placed in a hospital tank. Most medications damage either
plants or shrimp. And some medical approaches block each other. <...
you may well have to drain the tank down... use two nets, have someone
help you with capturing all... but we're getting ahead of ourselves
here... what is the actual concern/complaint with your
livestock's' health> I have hooked up a portable UV
sterilizer to the tank and I have the temperature at around 86 degrees.
That should help with the parasites. However, I don't know how to
cure the bacteria without using a medication that the UV sterilizer
will neutralize. <They (UVs) don't neutralize antibiotics,
antimicrobials...> Of course, I don't HAVE to use the UV --
that's just a nice way to not harm the plants or the shrimp. Help!
Kevmo <I would NOT add material for a perceived bacterial problem
here... likely not needed, nor effectual... Look to improved water
quality, time going by to effect a cure. Bob Fenner>
Failure to QT/Mixing Meds Hello, The last
few days I've been experiencing trouble with my
tank. While I was researching I stumbled across your site. I
would appreciate any help you can possibly give me. First some
background on my tank: I have a ten gallon tank with three
male guppies, six females guppies, and a ghost shrimp. All
of the fish except two females and one male are
relatively new and were given to me by people in my dorm
building so I could care for them over winter break. I have
both a carbon based filter and a air stone. I do 20-25%
water changes a week with bottled spring water and keep the tank at a
temperature of roughly 78F. Now the problem. I noticed the other day
that several of the "new" fish were flicking against the
gravel, air piping, and several of the decor I have in the
tank. I wasn't sure what this was and it led me to
further research on guppy illnesses and behavior. Two days
ago one of the fish suddenly developed what I took for a physical
injury possibly from flicking against the filter intake or a sharp
piece of gravel. His tail seemed split. I
dismissed tail rot because I had not heard of tail rot doing this sort
of damage to a tail. Instead of being uneven or
"eaten" a small strip of the tail was missing all the way to
the base. The fish died within 24 hours of this. The next
day one of the females started showing similar signs, only
her tail was more typical of tail rot since it was uneven. I
quickly went out and got an "anti-fungus" (active
ingredients: malachite green and Acriflavine hydrochloride). I started
that treatment yesterday after removing the carbon cartridge from the
filter. While I was at the pet store I noticed a medicine called
"Anti-Fluke" that treats Gill Flukes which seemed to fit the
fishes behavior. I picked up a bottle of that thinking after the
treatment for the tail rot I would treat them for gill
flukes. However, today the fish (naturally a very light fish
with dark almost black fins) with what I had assumed was Tail Rot is
now covered in a dark substance. Several of the other fish
have white specks covering them. The more I looked at the
fish the more I noticed that almost every fish in the tank has these
white spots. I'm afraid I panicked, pulled the ghost shrimp out of
the tank, and treated the tank with the "Anti-Fluke" (active
ingredients: dimethyl, hydroxy, and trichloromethyl phosphate). Is this
tank plagued with several different problems or have I mis-diagnosed
something? Is there anything I can do to aid in the recovery
of the fish? And, also since the Anti-Fluke is toxic to the
ghost shrimp is there anything I can do to the tank after treatment
that will allow me to return him? I have a small 2 gallon
tank containing several guppy fry. I haven't put the
shrimp in it yet for fear that he might be carrying whatever is causing
the problems in the other tank. Is there anything I can do
as "de-con" for him? Thanks for your time and help, Rachel
<Hi Rachel, Don here. You need to do a bunch of water changes. 50%
at a time. One right away, another in a few hours. Repeat tomorrow.
Then put fresh carbon back in the filter and replace it the next day.
Do a few more water changes. This should remove most of the brew in
your tank. Never mix medicines! Drain the water with a siphoning gravel
vac. This will remove the Ick parasites reproducing in your gravel.
Read here for the proper use of salt for curing Ick. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=32
Take note of the life cycle and continue treatment for at least two
weeks after the last spot drops. The shrimp can not host Ick, but there
may be some on him or in the water within his shell. Best to keep him
alone for a month. This will starve the Ick. As to adding him back to
the treated tank, maybe. But some meds, copper based for example, will
kill an invert years after use. Best to but him with the fry (after
that 30 days in QT). Don't worry about the fin rot for now. The
water changes and salt will help, maybe cure. I would also strongly
suggest a test kit for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The mix of med
will have killed off your bio filtration. Continue with water changes
to correct any spikes in ammonia or nitrite. Read here.
http://www.marineland.com/articles/1firstthirty.asp
. In the future always QT any new additions for 30 days before adding
them to your tank>
Nuking Components Form An Infected System Hi guys! <Hi
there! Scott F. here tonight> Got this nasty in my tank and
eventually had to destroy my remaining stock. The tank is
125 gallon fresh with undergravel filter, two mechanical filters and a
wet/dry filter. Please advise as to the best way to clean my
tank to insure that my new fish do not become infected. My
husband was all for throwing some bleach in but I don't want to do
something that will mess up my wet/dry filter for life. HELP! Kim
<Actually, your husband is correct. I'd use some bleach, then
rinse very, very thoroughly, with baking soda. Then, rinse again, fill
the sump with Dechlor, and let it sit, Wash it thoroughly again. That
should do the trick. Make sure that there is no residual chlorine smell
before using again. That's what I'd do! Have fun! Regards,
Scott F>
New tank, Bio-Spira, and fungus problem - II Thanks Gwen, I
appreciate your help. I didn't use the old media because for the
new tank because the old tanks were 5 gallon hex's with the
carbon/floss cartridges and bio-wheels incorporated in the top. I
can't really think of a way to use the old media's with the
Fluval, unless I just suspend the whole filtration unit above the tank
somehow. I vacuumed, and am now treating an ick outbreak on two of my
fish, using aquarium salt. :^( Will do water changes, and try to bump
the salt up to .3% over the next 24 hrs. I hate to use the chemical ick
products as my filtration biology is on shaky ground as it is. The ick
reared it's awful head today....had never seen it before this at
all. Thanks! Any other ideas or suggestions would be very appreciated.
I hope you all had a great weekend. Laura Swenson >>Ah, I
understand! Sorry to hear about the ich, Laura...what a pain! Okay, I
guess all you can do at this point is keep testing the water and
performing the water changes necessary to keep your levels low. What is
the tank temp? Since you have goldfish, I hesitate to advise raising
the temperature, so I guess you will have to battle the ich with salt.
Best of luck to you. -Gwen<<
White patches: ich, velvet, both, neither? Before I
start, here's the background: Two 5-6" Oscars, one 5"
Pleco, 39 g tank (which I now know is wayyyy too small and am
diligently saving toward obtaining a 120 g tank ASAP). Two
HOB filters (Penguin 125 w/BioWheel & a Millennium
1000). Biweekly 25-50% water changes depending on the amount
of crud. Try to keep Ph no higher than 7.0 and ammonia is at a
"safe" level according to the ammonia alert card in the tank
(can those be trusted?). I put in 1 Tbls of aquarium salt
for every 5 gallons of water I add during water changes. I use tap
water treated with aqua safe & try to get it as close to the tank
temp as possible. 1 or 2x daily feedings of Oscar pellets,
dried brine shrimp &/or occasional live earthworms
(rinsed). Please see the attached pics of my Lilo's
spots and tell me if this looks more like ich or velvet or just
injuries from fighting. <After reviewing the photo it looks like
wounds from fighting> It doesn't look fluffy like velvet or
pinpointy like ich. Stitch has recently started ramming
Lilo's sides and I noted a scale pop off
yesterday. Obviously I need to get a much bigger tank
ASAP. In the meantime, I put a plastic screen in to separate
them, which unfortunately only makes the habitat smaller for each, but
at least they aren't tormenting each other at the moment. The pic
has a greenish tint because I added 3 tabs of Tank Buddies Fungus Clear
(Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone, potassium dichromate) and per the
instructions, took out the carbon cartridges from the filters. < You
should have removed the BioWheel from the penguin filter too.
Medications can kill the bacteria on the wheel sometimes.>
How soon before I can put them back in? The box
says do another treatment and 25% water change in four days if it
hasn't cleared up. Does that mean the cartridges stay out for that
long? I don't want to poison them! They are each quite
lethargic right now & didn't swim up to greet me at feeding but
did each eat a red wiggler this morning. Thanks in advance
for your assistance. < Do a partial water change and try using a
conditioner with some wound control in it. The Oscars will recover from
the wounds since they don't look too serious and Oscars are pretty
tough customers to begin with. I would not remedicate if the fungus
does not reappear. The fungus likes to live on dead tissue. Watch you
ammonia levels since the bacteria may have been harmed by the
medication. Add the carbon back after 24 hours to clear things up and
get you tank back on track.-Chuck>
QT Lesson Learned Crew: <Morning! Ryan with you> The
recent post from a FW aquarist who did QT for the first time and dodged
an ich outbreak in the main tank prompts me to share a sad story from
my pre-WWM FW days. I had never done QT before. I bought some seemingly
healthy Neons from the local Petco. Within two days of putting them
into my display tank, they and all the other fish were covered with
Ich. My precious Hatchetfish that I had had for three years died. The
Neons survived. Petco-like all fish stores--uses a filtration system
that links adjacent columns of tanks together. I went back and
checked-sure enough, there was ich in one of the other tanks on that
circuit. Of course, I got no refund, because it was only fish I already
had that died, not the ones I bought. I seldom buy fish at that
particular store anymore because there always seems to be sick fish
(fresh or salt) and the employees seem oblivious. When I do buy fish
from them, I check all of the linked tanks for diseased fish. I only
buy if they all look good, and I always quarantine. Steve Allen. <A
lesson that far too many learn the hard way...Thank you for sharing!
Ryan>
- How Much Epsom Salt? - Hello there, <And hello to you,
JasonC here...> I have a 36G fresh water planted cichlid
tank. One of my male Cyprichromis leptosoma is looking a
little weak (gaunt, thin, loss of color, not eating very well,
etc.).. Without jumping to conclusions if anything more
serious is wrong, I thought I would give the tank a little pick-me-up
with some Epsom salt as just a precaution and see if it
helps. The thing is, I have never added any kind of salt to
my tank. How much salt should I add to a 36 gallon fresh
water tank? <One tablespoon per five gallons.> Thank you, Jay
<Cheers, J -- >
Bogus Fish Medication/Advice If anyone can help me, then that
would be you guys! <OK... Banzai!!!!!!!!!!!!!!> I
have a question for you guys, I have a 55 gallon planted
tank. 135 watts of light, 125 and 170 penguin BioWheels and
a hot magnum. My PH is 6.4, my general hardness is 5 degrees
and my nitrites and ammonia are zero. I bought a couple of
discuss a week and a half ago, and they both came down with what seems
almost immediately upon introduction to the tank with some sort of
ailment. <and you've learned a very hard lesson that
too many do... the need to quarantine all new fish in a separate
hospital tank first. Never add new fish directly to a display...
especially sensitive and disease prone species like discus. Please read
through our articles and archives on how to properly run QT. 4 weeks
minimum, please> They are a dark dark brown or black, with cloudy
eyes and like a powdery covering of white on the body.
<many possibilities here... but they likely need to be treated as if
for parasites. Formalin baths and salt in a bare-bottomed QT tank. You
cannot medicate the main tank. It will run fallow while fish are in QT
for a month. Bare bottomed QT with daily siphoning of tank bottom to
reduce parasites and larvae needed> They will not eat, and initially
I started treating them with Melafix, but it must have striped the
oxygen from the tank and all of the fish were hanging at the
top. <it is a bogus product and at best cannot be used
as a primary medicant. We get a tremendous amount of negative feedback
on such holistic products... yet I cannot recall hearing one good
comment for every 100 bad ones. Makes you wonder if the one percent
success rate isn't just coincidence anyway> So the LFS
recommended Maracyn (ungodly expensive) for treatment. <grossly
ignorant if not irresponsible of your LFS. Maracyn is a gram positive
antibiotic... less than 20% of all bacterial infections are gram
positive, and of them only a tiny fraction respond to Maracyn ( which
is common and outdated Erythromycin). To add insult to injury in your
case... there is nothing to suggest that this infection is even
remotely bacterial in nature. There is a pretty sweet profit margin on
medications though :) > After three days the discus are still very
dark in color, <Oh, ya...> inactive and not eating the white
powdery film on the their bodies may have somewhat gone away,
<sloughing of mucus... natural response> but their eyes are still
cloudy. Is there any way that I can coax them into eating,
that would only help them heal faster, you would think.
<higher, stable temperatures with extremely vigorous aeration.
Target 84-86F> If this is not the correct treatment for these fish,
<no kidding... this wasn't even a treatment at all... you were
given very poor advice> what would the proper treatment
be? <as per above... Formalin (Aquarium Products and
several others brands available) and isolation in QT> I would really
hate to lose these two fish, I have very high expectations of
them. <I suspect that they have high expectations for
life too> There is no Plecos to harass them, and only peaceful
smaller fish in the tank. All of the other fish are
perfectly normal and healthy. I appreciate your
time. Thank you Dave McCorkell <Dave... please invest in
a good diagnostic book on diseases (low end but very good: Handbook of
Fish Diseases by Untergasser... and high end, the Noga reference). Also
buy a good discus book. Worthwhile investments before you buy any more
fishes. Best regards, Anthony>
Blindness in Sailfin Molly Hello Sir, <Howdy> Have
enjoyed your articles immensely. I have a large male Sailfin Molly that
recently became listless and would not show up for normal feedings. His
respiration also appears rapid. For the past two weeks, he has been
hovering pretty much motionless in upper level of the tank near a
heater. At feeding time, when all other fish rush to the corner of the
tank I normally feed in, he seems unaware of what is going on. <Not
good signs> Once in awhile, he seems to get some sense of what is
happening, and cautiously makes his way to the food, but by that time,
there is little left for him, and he seems to have difficulty locating
it. Feces have not been normal, I assume due to lack of food.
<Maybe... but the non-feeding, symptomology of the same are
secondary to what is causing your molly to act diffidently> Prior to
this change in behavior, he was extremely active, rarely giving the
female mollies in the tank a moments rest. He also dominated the
floating feeding ring I use. I did have one female Platy die
mysteriously during this period, but there seems to be no connection.
After monitoring this fish for some period, I suspect he may be blind.
He seems to bump into things in the tank, and again, has difficulty
locating food. <Mmm... good descriptions, clues.> The tank is 55
gallon with 25 or so live plants. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate all clear.
ph is stable at 8.2 (I realize this is high, but it has not fluctuated.
High ph of my water supply is the reason I have primarily went with
livebearers) I conduct all water tests weekly or more frequently. I did
change the tank lighting during this period. I replaced two 40 watt
strip lights with a 130 watt CFL fixture. The other residents of this
tank include: 3 female Sailfin Mollies, 5 Zebra Danios, 3 male Platys,
and 3 female Platys. All appear healthy and are eating well. Fearing
illness, I've increased aeration, increased frequency of water
changes. (Generally 10 - 15 percent weekly, increased to 10 percent
change 3 times this week), and have added 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt
per 5 gl. <All good changes, additions... what I would have
done as well> I've not been able to detect any signs of
parasites or bacterial infection on any of the fish, including the male
Sailfin. I've avoided any chemical treatments as there doesn't
appear to be anything to treat. <You are wise here> Since it
appears that this fish will starve to death, I have set up a 5 gl
hospital tank and moved him to it today. Once he has adjusted, I hope
to get him to eat. He did spend the first hour or so in this tank
bumping into the heater, filter tube, substrate etc. which would seem
to confirm a diagnosis of blindness. Is blindness common, or am I
missing something? Also, any recommendations on getting this Molly back
into society would be greatly appreciated. ps I've avoided using
salt in the large tank up to this point as I was unsure how it would
affect the Danios or other non-livebearers that I would like to add.
(Cory cats and Clown Loaches). I am planning to increase the salt level
in the hospital tank to 1 Tbs / 5 gl over the next few days. Bob Jensen
<The amounts of salts listed are no problem with the livestock you
have, or your filter systems. Other than what you've done, are
doing I suggest two things: adding liquid vitamins to the fish's
foods (and the tank water once a week), and adding a bit of blanched
vegetable food to their diet. A bit of boiled zucchini, chard or bit of
sheet of Nori, Kombu (oriental food store/section) algae sheet might
provide necessary nutritional input. This and/or do try another brand
(Spectrum, HBH...) fish food on your next purchase. I do agree that
considering your other fish life, water tests... that this is not
likely a case of infectious or parasitic disease... most likely a
nutritional deficiency-caused "blindness"... that is very
likely reversible at this point. Life to you my friend. Bob
Fenner>
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