Re: Water Chemistry and safety of fish (Cory sand/sys.) 8/15/11
Hi Neale,
Thanks. Of course, I have a couple more questions. We discussed how Marble Veil Angel's fins are never perfect, due to their immune system and the normal bacteria found in their tank water. Well, I have to accept this, even though I find it horrible. However, even so, is there anything I can use in the water to help the fins? I do a 30% water change every week, sometimes I notice the small roundish spots of fungus that eat the fin, then disappear. There is only a very small amount of fin gone, and looking at pictures of marbles, my fish seems to be doing better then most.
Last question, I have always used in my first tank, Aqua Terra Natural Sand over plant substrate. I have Cory cats in this tank, and have had them in there for at least four years, with no problems. With better
maintenance, no more lost barbels, as you suggested. I recently read that this sand is 100% acrylic coated, but has no dyes and chemicals. Is this coating bad for the Corys, in the long term? I also recently bought Estes Marine White Sand, which is supposed to be safe for freshwater and not raise PH, is this sand safe for Corys? I have now used one five pound bag of the Estes Marine and the rest was the Aqua Terra Natural, which is only an inch thick, over plant substrate, in my new 125 gallon tank. Both sands
seem to be fine and soft. It's the acrylic coating on the Aqua Terra that really concerns me. Oh I can't wait for my 125 gallon to cycle, it is taking a long time. Patience is a Virtue! Thanks so much Neale, and have a
pleasant day. Sincerely, Lu
<Hello Lu. I haven't used either Estes Marine White Sand or Aqua Terra Natural Sand personally, but if they are chemically inert they shouldn't harm the water chemistry. As for the Corydoras, well, the main thing is whether a sand feels velvet smooth or scratchy like sandpaper. If it's smooth, then it should be fine. Grab a hand lens and take a look at some. Are the grains like mini gravel chips and nice and rounded? Or do you see glassy, sharp edges like little flints? Acrylic coatings should be harmless; after all, aquaria can be made from acrylic, as are numerous aquarium ornaments and accessories. So provided the Aqua Terra Natural Sand is sold as fish tank-safe, then you're good to go! By the way, a really big tank like a 125-gallon one should be safe to use within 3-4 weeks, and quite possibly sooner, in the sense of being big enough to dilute any ammonia from a handful of small fish. I'd have no qualms about adding 3-4 Corydoras paleatus for example to a 125-gallon tank right from Day 1, and I'd use them to cycle the tank, though keeping a close eye on ammonia and doing daily water changes and minimal feeding. I also tend to add plants to new tanks as well: they remove ammonia directly, and also carry the bacteria that "seed" the biological filter, jump starting the whole process. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Water Chemistry and safety of fish 8/15/11
Hi Neale,
Oh, great news. I called the company on the Aqua Terra was informed that the acrylic is good for life, and won't come off or harm the fish.
<Cool.>
I researched more on the Estes and, as told by the person whom sold it to me, it is inert, and from reading, a lot of people prefer to use it, as it does not raise PH and is very nice and fine. I also am gonna get some Caribsea sunset sand, I love the color and read on WetWeb, that it is safe for soft belly fish.
<Good to know.>
I have had tank running for about three weeks now, using ammonia to cycle.
My ammonia level is at 0, but my Nitrites are still at about .50.
<Ammonia cycling can take a while. If ammonia is zero, but nitrite at 0.5 mg/l, chances are things are well advanced and should be done within a week or two.>
I am so glad I can put plants in now, cause of course, I am like a little kid, and cant wait to put them in.
<Is actually an excellent approach: gives the plants time to establish themselves without fish uprooting them.>
As a paranoid mommy, I am afraid to harm the fish, but I trust your knowledge, and will probably put those little Corys in! I will send you a picture of both tanks when I get them situated.
<Sure thing!>
You and WetWeb deserve a lot of credit for keeping me in the fish hobby, so I would love to share my tank photos with you!!!
<Why not start a thread over at the WWM forum? http://wetwebmediaforum.com/
Some folks like to create "journals" for new tanks, adding updates over the weeks so people can comment on them and provide ideas.>
Thank goodness for WetWeb and you!!! Have a splendid day. Cheers Lu
<Most welcome, Neale.>
P.S I checked out planted tanks on You Tube, and if your interested in seeing some breathtaking set ups here is the link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mg8TQUUETcc
If you put in search area and hit search it takes you right to it....enjoy!!!!
<Some real nice tanks there. Cheers, Neale.>

Tahitian Moon sand, laterite, and Corydoras 2/18/10
"Right now I have regular aquarium gravel in my tank. Is there any special type of gravel/sand I should use to prevent the Corys from getting injured and that is also good for the plants? Is laterite a good option?
<Corys seem to relish a sandy substrate, and so they're so much fun to watch as they sift through the sand! Also, it seems that Corys kept in tanks with gravel can suffer from broken barbels. I have about fifteen Corys in my community aquarium with "play" sand, and have had no problems with my Corys, so that's another option -- just be sure the sand you use is smooth silica sand, as I'm not sure how many different sands are called "play" sand. I think CaribSea is doing a lot in the way of freshwater sand substrates now, and they offer a variety of natural-looking colors, as well, so that may be something to look into (I have considered changing my plain old vanilla sand to their Tahitian Moon -- the black sand really brings out fishes' beautiful colors). I am not familiar with laterite, but
from what I've read (you've got me doing my research!) it seems the Corys should be fine with it. I didn't read anything that stated it was sharp, which is the only thing I'd look out for. (Bob, is this a correct summation?)
<<Yes... is physically soft-enough, not chemically harmful. RMF>>
This sounds like a great set-up, and one I think you'll really enjoy. The Corys are such characters, and you may even find yourself able to add a few more Neons after the aquarium is established and you've gotten a good feel for how heavily-stocked (Nitrate-wise) the tank is.>
Thanks.
<You're welcome!>
Meenakshi
<--Melinda> "
Hello Melinda,
Before recommending people swap one type of sand for another, it's a good idea to have them look over the Carib Sea web site. It rates sands depending on two key things, whether they're safe with soft bellied fish (like catfish) or burrowing fish (like gobies). Tahitian Moon Sand for example gets a "no" on both counts. The problem is that sands made from the glass production industry (like Tahitian Moon Sand) is too abrasive, and scratches the mouths, whiskers and bellies of fish like catfish.
http://www.caribsea.com/pages/products/super_nat.html
I'm not sure about laterite. The real stuff is mud rather than sand. I've only used real laterite as a supplement to pea gravel underneath a layer of smooth silica sand, the two separated by a gravel tidy. I can't really see why anyone would want a substrate made entirely from laterite mud; it's so darn expensive, and makes a real mess! But the laterite-enriched "complete" substrates are something else, and I don't know if they're made using glass or not.
Cheers, Neale
Am accruing on WWM. B
Re: Tahitian Moon sand, laterite, and Corydoras
Hi Neale--
Thanks for the information. I have read that folks have had success in using Tahitian Moon with soft-bellied fish, including rays, so is why I mentioned that I was considering changing my own substrate to the Tahitian Moon. Now, I'll reconsider, and it's good to know that even CaribSea doesn't recommend its use in tanks with those type of fish. I was not aware of the page you linked me to, and will look it over prior to suggesting sand or re-aquascaping my own tank!
As for the laterite, everything I found on WWM in my research to respond to the query did indicate it would be safe, but I did see in the process of reading that most folks don't use it as their sole substrate. However, I figured this individual may not be planning that, either, but wanted to know whether the laterite itself would be harmful. It's good to know that it's not, especially considering that this isn't a product I'm familiar with.
However, as I indicated with the "play" sand, it can be difficult to go on the name of a product in determining its safety -- for example, by laterite, was the querier referring to plain laterite, or these mixes you're referring to? I honestly don't know. I assumed plain, because nothing else was indicated, and based my response on that. Overall, I think as long as the querier takes care to avoid sharp substrate and moves toward soft, smooth sand, he or she should be okay, and I indicated that this was the reasoning behind my approval of the laterite.
Thanks again for taking the time to respond to my query-within-a-query! I had helped this person thus far, and wanted to continue helping, but since I was in unfamiliar territory with the laterite, with nothing to go on but what I found on WWM, definitely wanted to be sure I was providing accurate information.
--Melinda
Re: Tahitian Moon sand, laterite, and Corydoras
I don't know either, Melinda.
This might be one of those times where you recommend "consulting with the manufacturer" rather than risking your own reputation. For what it's worth, you're probably right, but I've never used a laterite-enriched synthetic substrate, so can't speak with any authority at all.
Cheers, Neale

algae eater/ bottom feeder with Glofish 02/14/10
Dear WetWebMedia Crew,
<Hi! Melinda with you here tonight.>
I have a 20 gallon aquarium with pebbles at the bottom and many artificial and 3 real plants. The aquarium is cycling right now and I am following the technique you outlined of getting used substrate from the petstore and leaving it in for ~ 3 weeks while checking.
<Are you adding an Ammonia source, such as a pinch of fish food daily? If you don't, the cycle won't occur -- there will be nothing for the bacteria to eat, so it won't grow.>
I have a few questions:
1. What parameters should I check in order to know whether the cycling is complete?
<Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. When Ammonia has spiked and fallen to zero, and Nitrite has done the same, and you have readable Nitrate, then it's time to do a water change and add your fishies. Have you had the opportunity to read
here?: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm>
2. I am thinking of stocking this tank with 8 neon tetras OR 8 Glofish. I gather from your article on stocking that these should be fine. However, I want to add an algae eater/ bottom feeder to help in keeping the aquarium
clean. Is it ok and sufficient to add two julii Corys to this system?
<If you add Corys, you should add at least five or six, since this is how they're more comfortable. You've got plenty of "room," stocking-wise, to do so, as well. The Juliis would be a nice addition -- they're such nice looking little fish! The temperature ranges for any of these three fish are compatible, though I'd still use a heater, set low, to control fluctuations. Set it at 75, and it may only come on every now and then, but will give you the peace-of-mind that temperature isn't going to dip below that point.>
Thank you for all your help.
<You're welcome. Please write back if you have any questions.>
Meenakshi
<--Melinda>
Re: algae eater/ bottom feeder with GloFish 2/18/10
Thank you Melinda.
<You're welcome!>
We have decided to go with 8 Neon Tetras and 6 Corys.
<That sounds like a nice combination!>
Right now I have regular aquarium gravel in my tank. Is there any special type of gravel/sand I should use to prevent the Corys from getting injured and that is also good for the plants? Is laterite a good option?
<Corys seem to relish a sandy substrate, and so they're so much fun to watch as they sift through the sand! Also, it seems that Corys kept in tanks with gravel can suffer from broken barbels. I have about fifteen Corys in my community aquarium with "play" sand, and have had no problems with my Corys, so that's another option -- just be sure the sand you use is smooth silica sand, as I'm not sure how many different sands are called "play" sand. I think CaribSea is doing a lot in the way of freshwater sand substrates now, and they offer a variety of natural-looking colors, as well, so that may be something to look into (I have considered changing my plain old vanilla sand to their Tahitian Moon -- the black sand really brings out fishes' beautiful colors). I am not familiar with laterite, but
from what I've read (you've got me doing my research!) it seems the Corys should be fine with it. I didn't read anything that stated it was sharp, which is the only thing I'd look out for. (Bob, is this a correct summation?)
<<Yes... is physically soft-enough, not chemically harmful. RMF>>
This sounds like a great set-up, and one I think you'll really enjoy. The Corys are such characters, and you may even find yourself able to add a few more Neons after the aquarium is established and you've gotten a good feel for how heavily-stocked (Nitrate-wise) the tank is.>
Thanks.
<You're welcome!>
Meenakshi
<--Melinda>

Corydoras paleatus, stkg. # in a ten gal. vol. 11/1/09
I have a 10 gallon tank with two peppered Corydoras in it - they were given to me by a friend who was breaking down her tank. I have heard they like to be kept in groups - how large of a group can I keep in a 10 gallon tank, and what types of live plants should I plant it with? I have pool filter sand as a substrate.
<A ten-gallon tank is on the small size for this species, so in the long term, you want to think seriously about something around the 20 gallon mark. Smaller tanks are difficult to keep clean, don't tend to be stable, and don't provide enough space for fish this size to swim about and exercise themselves. Since the price differential between 10 and 20 gallon tanks is trivial, there's no reason to buy these smaller tanks that I can think of. They take up about the same amount of space, surprisingly enough.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_5/volume_5_3/stocking.htm
But in the meantime, I'd keep a group of 5 specimens. Try to get more females than males if possible (females are bigger, while males have taller, more elongated dorsal fins). I wouldn't worry too much about live plants since you have a sandy substrate. The best bet would be some floating plants, like Indian Fern, and maybe a branch or two of bogwood with some Java fern or Anubias attached. To grow plants that have roots, like Cryptocoryne species or Amazon Swords you need a reasonably deep substrate, at least 5 cm, and that'll waste too much volume inside this tank. Better to go for a shallow bed of sand, maybe 1 cm, and stick with plants that get their nutrients out of the water. Cheers, Neale.>

...lone Corydoras 10/29/09
Hi Forum
<Hello,>
Receive a best greeting. Two months ago try to start in hobby cycling a 10 Gallon tanks as recommended.
<You do realise 10 gallon tanks can only hold a limited variety of fish?
See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_5/volume_5_3/stocking.htm
>
After a month and good Physical-Chemicals values...
<What was the ammonia source here? A common mistake is to cycle an aquarium just by adding water and letting the filter run. Without ammonia, nothing happens. The easiest approach is to add pinches of flake every couple of days, just as if there were fish in the tank. The flake decays, produces ammonia, and the bacteria in the filter grow.>
I acquire in a local pet store 5 nice Bicolor Corydoras.
<Corydoras bicolor, an interesting, somewhat delicate species.>
Misfortunately after a week they begin to die.
<What are the water chemistry and water quality values? Almost certainly an environmental issue. Just to recap: you need 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, water hardness around 5-20 degrees dH, and a pH between 6 and 8. Water temperature should not be too high, no more than 25 C.>
For now just one survives and this one looks good and healthy. My concern right now is...put other companion to my lone Cory. The problem is Bicolor Cory cats is not common in the area and I cant find other ones. Can I put other types of Corydoras with him for example schwartzi or even pandas?....any other recommendation?
<Yes, Corydoras species can be mixed, but they do not usually school together. Sometimes they do, but not usually. If you have never kept fish before, and want a hardy species, then the best bets are Corydoras paleatus and Corydoras aeneus.>
Thanks in advance!!
Victor
<Cheers, Neale.>

Small tank, Betta, Corydoras sys. 5/12/09
Hi, I wrote in a few days ago about a sick fish and Neale told me that my tank is simply too small (3 gallons- 1 molly, 2 platies, 1 albino Cory).
Since them I have found a home for them and have been doing research on what kind of fish I could put in such a small tank. My research has come up with a beta.
<Yes, you can -- just about -- squeeze a Betta (rhymes with "better", not "beater") into a 3 gallon tank. But I wouldn't recommend it; chances of success are far greater in a tank at least 5 gallons in size. I cannot
stress enough how difficult it is to maintain any fish in such a small volume of water.>
However, my concern is that these other fish which have been in my tank since January have been sickly or the water has been off and so there has been lots of Melafix in that tank (the antibiotic I have been using which apparently is just as good as antiseptic). I've had what may or may not be fin rot, something that may be parasites or dropsy right now (swollen belly, white stringy poo_, I'm not really sure and probably much more disease in the tank than I would like to know about.
<Finrot and Fungus are latent in all tanks, since the bacteria and fungi involved are harmless, even beneficial, when fish are healthy. It's only when the fish get weakened -- often because the environment is wrong --
that these bacteria and fungi become dangerous. Ergo, keep your fish happy, and Finrot and Fungus are never a problem!>
So my questions are: is this tank truly suitable for a beta?
<Marginal. I wouldn't bother.>
I went through a lot of trouble with these other fish, I want a fish that I can enjoy. It's 3 gallons, filter, BioWheel, heater, and lots of hiding spaces.
<Seriously, three gallons is a bucket. You would do so much better keeping a Betta in 5 gallons or more; for 3 gallons, I'd keep Cherry Shrimps or Crystal Red Shrimps. They're pretty, they're inexpensive, and they're fun to watch. Kept properly, Cherry Shrimps breed readily, and it's fun to watch them at all different sizes.>
Secondly, should I clean the tank before I put the beta in?
<Certainly give it a clean, but there's no need to sterilise it, and certainly no need to throw away live filter media.>
If so, with what? Throw the gravel out? Just throw out the water and rinse the gravel to get rid of the old poo that might be buried under there? And for how long should I let the tank cycle, if at all?
<If the aquarium has been empty for more than a few days, chances are the bacteria have died back to a very low level. Not zero, but low. So you will want to cycle for at least 2-3 weeks before adding another fish. Shrimps produce less ammonia, so if you add just a three Cherry Shrimps immediately, and three a week later, you should be fine.>
I know it seems like I can just look these answers up and I have but there has been a lot of conflicting information and some suggestion that I clean my tank with BLEACH! My BioWheel has NOTHING on it, looks just as new as it did when I got it back in January (4 months ago). Could it be from all the Melafix?
<No.>
And is there ANY WAY I can keep my albino Cory? I really like him and would be saddest to see him go.
<Sure, in a bigger tank. Since these are schooling fish, make the Cory happy by keeping six in a tank 15-20 gallons or larger. Keeping a singleton is cruel.>
Thank you
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: FW Sand, part. Callichthyid sys. 4/27/09
Hey,
<Hello,>
In your last response to me you said something about using sand as a substrate for my aquarium, because the Corys love it and stuff. But I've read numerous places that sand is a pain to clean and you have to kind of move it around frequently.
<Garbage. In fact, the issue with sand is that it doesn't HIDE dirt, and so people imagine it's dirtier. It's like when people say white clothes get dirty faster. No, they get dirty just as fast as any other clothes, you just see it more quickly. What happens with sand is that fish faeces and other remains don't sink into the gravel. On a bed of sand, they sit on the top of the sand. If you have a good filter, this means it gets sucked up,
but if it doesn't, it collects usually in one corner. To be honest, it's actually easier to keep a sandy aquarium clean because you can see the dirt and siphon it out easily. A turkey baster is a good tool for "spot
cleaning" if you don't have time to do a water change. No, you don't need to stir the sand all the time. Your Corydoras will take care of that!
Melanoides snails are also great additions, behaving like earthworms and keeping the sand spotlessly clean. Plants also play a role, and besides doing extremely well in sand, if there's some nutrient rich aquarium soil
underneath, their roots oxygenate the sand slightly as well. Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/nicebottoms.htm
>
Instead of using sand, though, I read that quartz sand is a really good choice.
<Provided the sand is smooth (not sharp) and lime-free, use whatever sand you like. Silica (silver) sand is what I use because it's so cheap and easy to buy.>
I was wondering if you knew anything about it, like if it's too sharp for Corys and if live plants are able to be planted in it (with something like Fluorite or Eco Complete underneath, or something along those lines) Here is a site with some of the quartz sand that I like
(http://www.aquariumsands.com/White_Aquarium_Sand_p/2000s9.htm)
<Looks far too sharp. And hideous. Bright white substrates will make your fish "turn down" their colours, so they'll all look washed out. Trust me on this: plain "smooth" silver sand from your garden centre is (extremely) cheap and effective, and once you have some plants growing above to create some shade, fish love the stuff. A 25 kilo bag (a bit over 50 lb) costs me about 3-4 UK pounds, around 5-6 US dollars. Using it seems a no-brainer to me. Just make sure you don't get "sharp" silver sand, the alternative stuff
sold in garden centres.>
Once again, thanks :)
<Cheers, Neale.>

Sterbai Corydoras with White Lump on Nose 4/14/2009 Hi There Two days ago I discovered that two of my five Sterbai Corydoras had lost their barbells and both have a white lump on the tip of their nose. The lump appears to be solid, see attached pictures. I've removed them from the community tank and put them into my 25L holding tank. As per the LFS (here in Australia) I have begun treatment with Tri-Sulfa tablets. I've also added an airstone to the tank, in case they need extra oxygen. The other Corys and community fish appear to be fine. Prior to the Corys getting sick, my community tank details are: 1. Water parameters Temp: 28C PH: 6.8 Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 5 2. Tank set up Size: L 36' (92cm) X W 14' (36cm) x D 19' (50cm) Substrate: As seen in above pic, small round smooth gravel Filtration: Aquaclear 50 (HOB) Furnishings: 2 logs (aquarium decoration bought at LFS), 2 slate rocks, a terracotta pot, a terracotta plate, 1 large piece of driftwood, 3 Amazon sword plants Tankmates: 2 Bolivian Rams, 1 SAE, 6 Dwarf Neon Rainbows, 6 Neon Tetras, 9 Ember Tetras Tank has been established for 11 months. Does anyone on the Crew know what this is, and have I begun the right treatment? Thank you in advance for any advice on this matter. Deanna <Deanna, the treatment is very simple. Take out the gravel; put in smooth (not sharp!) silica sand or an aquarium sand expressly suitable for burrowing fish (many aren't, e.g., Tahitian Moon Sand). http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/nicebottoms.htm What you are describing is extremely common. All that happens is that the Corydoras burrow into the gravel, or try to at least, and they damage their snouts. Bacterial infections set in, and the whiskers rot away. Corydoras shouldn't be kept in tanks with gravel, though a lot of people do so (and yes, they all have Corydoras with missing whiskers). Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Sterbai Corydoras with White Lump on Nose - Follow Up Question 4/14/2009 Thanks for your prompt response Neale. The choice of substrate did cross my mind, and I will change over ASAP. Should I continue with the Triple Sulfa treatment in the quarantine tank because they still have a lump on their nose, or can I move them back to the main tank? Cheers Deanna <Hello Deanna. By all means carry on treating against Finrot, but in all likelihood these fish will get better by themselves. So finish the course you've started, but once done, simply wait for the Catfish to heal. Cheers, Neale.>

Substrate for Cory Cats - 8/19/08 Hello, all! <Hello! Merritt here today before the dreaded school days start again!> I would like to add some Cory cats to my 14 gallon tank that currently houses a female Betta. Why do some sources say minimum tank size for Corys is 10 gallons and others sources say 30 gallons? Is this more for water quality or the fish's activity? <Good question. The Corys that I have had over the years have been contained in tanks smaller than 15 gallons but the species I kept did not get any bigger than 4.5 cm. I know some that can get bigger than 7 cm thus, a larger tank would be beneficial for them. All aquarium fish need excellent water quality. I would not worry about the size of your tank, 14 gallons will be fine. Just focus on the size your Corys that you will eventually get. You could easily have the ones that get up to 5 cm in your tank. Also, Corys are not very active fish, mine are at their peak of activity during feeding when the scavenging is good.> Anyway, should I be able to get the Corys... I currently have a pebble substrate, about 1/4" in size. I was thinking about switching this to a sand substrate for the Cory cats, because I don't know if they will be able to search for food in the pebbles. Is sand a better choice than the pebbles? If so, what kind? I read the "Nice Bottoms" article and it sounded like silica sand would be good for the cats, but other articles and questions I have looked at say otherwise. Some info states Black Tahitian sand as being smooth, others as being sharp. So, I am utterly confused by what to do here. Not sure that I can use any other types of sands with these fish. Any suggestions? Also, if silica sand is appropriate, where can I find it? <The only substrate that I use with my Corys is pebble substrate. They can and do find food easily with their barbels in the pebbles. Sand is a great substrate for Corys, because the fish can bury and dig in the sand, nothing is happier than a Cory in sand. If you want to switch to a sand substrate I would us the silica sand mainly for personal preference. The black Tahitian sand is more expensive, from what I have seen, than the silica sand. And many chose the black because they want a darker substrate for their tanks. The silica sand will not make the water alkaline and Corys prefer their water to be slightly acidic. Silica sand is mainly used with reptiles, so you need to be looking in unfamiliar territory. Just rinse the sand thoroughly before putting it in your tank.> One last thing - the tank has cycled. Will changing the substrate completely ruin this? Or can I count on the bio-wheel and other surfaces in the tank to keep everything in check? <Mmm... Just to be safe, I would recycle the tank. It can't hurt.> Thanks for the help, again! Amy <You are welcome! Merritt A.>

Cory Cat Addition 2/25/07 Hi, <Hello.> my name is Colleen McCarthy, <My name is Adam J. but my friends just call me Action.> and I have a male Betta in a 2.5 gal tank. <Neat.> I was wondering if you think adding a Cory catfish or two would be okay. <Mmm...not in this size tank.> thanks, <Of course.> colleen <Adam J.>
Re: Cory Cat Addition 2/25/07 well what is the minimum size tank for 2 or 3 together? <The ideal setting would be at least a 10 gallon standard tank with some fake or live plant coverage for hiding...5 at a minimum in my experience.> colleen <Adam J.>

Salinity Woes 11/27/06 I recently bought 1 Pleco (3 inch), 3 Cory Cats (1inch), an Iridescent Shark (2 inch), and a Colombian Shark (2 inch) for my 55 gal. aquarium. I know that the sharks will outgrow this tank. <Yep> My question deals with the salinity of the water, as I found out (after the fact) that the Colombian Shark will prefer a brackish/marine environment as it matures. How much salinity will my other fish tolerate? Thanks! Kevin R. <Not much/any for the Corys and Pleco. This mix is not viable for the long term.> <Chris>

Catfish Questions 8/12/06 Hello WWM Crew; Thanks so much for your great help with my marine reef questions in the past! In addition to my 350 gallon marine reef system I also have a couple of freshwater tanks which I have had for the last four years or so. Here's a freshwater question you never received before! I recently obtained seven little darling Corydoras adolphi which are now doing great in my QT tank. I have had them for about a week and in another three weeks or so I will be placing them in my 75 gallon "Amazon" tank. The Corys are currently kept in water with a PH of 6.4 - 6.6, which is approximately the same PH as in my main "Amazon" tank. My question is this: Where can I obtain some reliable information about these little guys. I have all the usual reference books, but not a single one even mentions this species. Google shows only a few entries, none of which are of any help to me. I realize there are about 140-150 different species of Corys, all of which are from various parts of South America and living in waters from a PH of about 5 to a PH of about 6.8-7.0. I would really like to take good care of these critters, but how do you suggest I do that without knowing anything about them? (Other, of course, than "all Corys are about the same" - which is definitely not the case!) I hope you can steer me in the right direction. Thank you very much. Tage Blytmann < For all your catfish needs check out planetcatfish.com. Just type in the species name under the search and read away.-Chuck>

Doomed Corydoras Hi WWM crew . . . haven't emailed you in a while (thankfully). My main problem is, that no matter how hard I try, my Cory cats never seem to prosper. It's so frustrating since Corys are my favorite fish. <Mine too> No matter what conditions I keep them in, they eventually die, lose their barbels, or remain stunted (never mature from 1 inch juveniles). I have acquired some beautiful harder-to-get species, such as similis "violet", xinguiensis, caudimaculatus, and trilineateus. I used to have six xinguensis (now five? or four?), and have two similis, caudimaculatus, and Trilineatus each. I assume that it is not for lack of company that they are dying. They seemed to lose their barbels on a Fluorite substrate, so I switched them to a bare-bottom tank. The current tank: 10 gallons, sponge-filtered, a few plastic plants, one female Betta, rather warm (80-82 degrees). Every so often one of them, such as the xingus, will die suddenly. I can transfer them to a currently empty 75 gallon tank . . . I just really really wish to breed them, see them grow up and prosper . . . and live. My problems that I can see is the warm water temp . . . the infrequent feeding . . . and the rather dirty tank bottom. Thanks for your time and info! <Arghhh, your breaking my heart. I love the little guys, their selfless devotion to cleaning your gravel, the way they wink at you when you stare at them long enough, ok I'm done. For starters, what are your water parameters? If you are serious about breeding them you will need to set up a tank for them, and them only. Like you said "warm water temp . . . the infrequent feeding . . . and the rather dirty tank bottom" this will cause problems. 82 is a little high, you will need to vary the temp depending upon the type of Cory, but high 70's is a good starting point. These guys love live worms, I feed mine shrimp/algae wafers and left over frozen food, but I am not trying to breed them. 10gal is a little small, a 20gal long is a good start. With good water quality and good food you should be ok. You might try starting with a more common Cory instead of shelling out the cash for the rare ones. Use the Google search tool on our site and google.com to find more information on Cory care and breeding. Good luck, Gage>
Re: the doomed Corydoras ... Thanks for the speedy reply! I have a few more questions to clarify, sorry. Will Corys be happy with members of other species? Should I get more of each species? As I said, I have several pairs of different species in my tank. This is because I bought them at a local aquarium society auction. This is great as there are many dedicated Cory breeders who can provide us with many healthy, rarer, and more-or-less cheap (about $3 each) specimens. The 10 gallon was intended to be a quarantine tank, but I don't want to move them to the 75 gallon, as they look so small and delicate. Perhaps I should add a small bio-wheel power filter? (I've got an extra one lying around) My water parameters are: nitrites - 20, and pH 7.8 (with "Amazon" buffer), KH 3, dh 2. My tap water is supposedly very soft, with no fluoride and hardly any (if at all) chlorine/chloramines. One of the perks of living in Hawaii! Of course the water is too warm <If I recall you mentioned your water was around 82, this is not terrible, but I would not go much higher> . . . Well I will do more water changes, feed them twice a day, <They love worms!> add a fan . . . and hopefully see them grow to 2 and 3 inch maturity. Thanks for your help . . . Trisha. <Hey Trisha, great idea with the QT tank, it's the only way to go. I would however add the filter (the more the merrier), and keep up on water changes. Nitrates are really high, they should be around 0 I am guessing that ammonia is high too. How long has the QT tank been set up? Sounds like it is rather new. I would still be sure to use some sort of water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramines, your Amazon buffer may do this, I am not sure. What other fish do you have in the 75gal? These fish are pretty tough for their size. Corys will get along with other species of Corys, but would be happier with more of the same. In the wild they like to hang out in shoals of about 50, not always easy to recreate in the home aquarium. Gage>

Salt tolerance of Cory Cats 5/28/06 Hello Crew! <<Hi, Jasmine. Tom here.>> I understand that the salt tolerance of catfish in general is very poor. <<It's true that Catfish don't have a tolerance for salt at levels that other fish can tolerate quite well.>> I have some Otos, Bronze Corys and Panda Corys. <<I love these guys, Jasmine. The Pandas tend to be a little less "robust" than other Corydoras varieties but they're sure cute. :)>> For future reference when the situation eventuates, how much aquarium salt would you recommend for these fish for a) prevention of nitrite poisoning and b) disease treatment. <<Regarding (a), don't let this situation "eventuate". In a cycled tank, with proper maintenance, it simply shouldn't occur. As to (b), this isn't, unfortunately, an option because of the dosages necessary to be effective. The "cure" would be as bad as the disease, in a manner of speaking. Even with all of the benefits to be derived from the addition of aquarium salt, in your case, I'm reluctant to advise this. Neither of the instances you cite would lead me to recommend its use given that there are alternatives should the occasion arise. I hope it never does, though. ;)>> Thanks for your help! Jasmine <<Happy to, Jasmine. Tom>>

Restocking, Learning - 08/25/2005 Hi WWM Crew, <Hi, Wayne! Sabrina with you today.> I've been emailing you a lot lately; sorry for the inconvenience because the problems I've had seemed petty. <No worries.> I thought Corys would be fine living with goldfish and mine have been doing pretty well. But I was just informed I shouldn't keep them together because of the different temperatures they live in? <Quite true.> Anyways, I'm set on just keeping them separate, maybe giving my biggest goldfish (about 2.5 inches) to a petstore, and restocking my tank with the peppered Corys with fish that are compatible. <Sounds like a plan!> I have 4 peppered Corys in a 10 gallon tank so far. I think 1 female and 3 males because one is significantly larger than the other 3. <Actually, a good ratio, if you wish to breed.> They've been chasing her around during these past few days. She (if it's a female) looks like she's trying to swim away from them. Seems like they want to mate with her. Is it stressful to her to be the only female in the tank? <Not really.... Provided, of course, that there is plenty of cover for her to hide.> I want to add maybe 2 more Corys to the school nonetheless. Would that be too much for my tank? <Pushing it, but they'll be fine. Corys are VERY social animals.> I've also read some stuff on freshwater livestock and compatibilities saying Tetras (Neons, Cardinals, Black Skirts, Bloodfins, False Rummynose, and Penguins), Platies, Loaches, and White Cloud Minnows? are good for a community tank. <I would skip white clouds, as they are actually a more temperate fish.... prefer cooler water.> I don't want any more bottom feeders or fish that like to hang out on the bottom. <Skip the loaches, then.> I'd prefer fish that stay in the middle of the tank or the top. Also after reading about size and water quantity, how big will tetras, platies, and loaches grow? <Much variance for tetras.... depending upon species, less than an inch to over a foot! Just research the species you like. Platies, roughly 2". Loaches, again, much variance.... from a couple inches to over a foot. Again, research....> Do they live in the same water conditions as my current Corys? <All but the platies, yes, but even the platies will thrive with you.> Are there any other types of fish I can think about putting in the tank other than the ones I listed? <Uhh.... how big is this tank going to be??> I also don't know how many of those fish I can add along with let's say 6 peppered Corys already in the tank. <As above.... I don't know the tank size (I do recall corresponding with you before, but we go through sooooo many emails daily.... Can't remember every detail! Mostly, be sure not to go overboard on stocking. It's always better to have too little than too much bioload.> I don't want to have an overstocking problem like I did with the goldfish. <Ahhhh, very good!> Thank you so much and you guys have been very helpful! <Glad to be of service.> I'm starting to understand more about fish care and also gaining much needed knowledge for future the well being of any future fish! <That, my friend, is why we are here. Thank you very much.> Wayne <Wishing you well, -Sabrina> Restocking, Learning - II - 08/26/2005 Hi Sabrina, <Hi, Wayne!> Thanks for replying! I have a 10 gallon tank. I think it has completed it's cycling phase, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate looks like 20ppm maybe slightly more. <Best to get the nitrate down some with water changes - but otherwise, great.> I have a bubble wall and an action pirate ship bubbler. <No other cover? I'd recommend adding more stuff for the Corys (and future fish) to help them feel secure and be able to "get away" from one another. Plants (plastic or live, low-light plants), rock, even very clean, new terra cotta plant pots.> My filter is a hang on back Whisper 20 Power Filter and my tank temperature (and also room temp) is 78 - 82 degrees. When it starts to get colder I'll drop the heater in. <Perfect.> I have the 4 peppered Corys already in that tank and was just wondering how many fish (Corys, Neons probably, or platies unless there are other types that will thrive comfortable even after they are fully grown) <I'd go for platies, honestly. They are MUCH more entertaining - and durable - than Neons. Neons can be very, very delicate and sensitive to any changes in water quality. Platies are VERY forgiving, especially in regards to pH, hardness, and nitrate. Plus, they come in SO many great colors/patterns.> Are panda Corys more delicate than peppered Corys because <Not really.> I love the way they look. <Me, too.> If they are too delicate, I would probably skip buying them and just add 1 or 2 more peppered Corys. <Well, platies are schoolers and like to be in hoards of their own species (literally, can find them in schools of hundreds, maybe thousands, in the wild!), but they'll play well with other species, too. Pandas are my favorite, as well. You could mix these two.> I visited Petco today and if Neons would do well in my 10 gallon tank I saw some neat tetras that were an inch or less in length. The only probably is that they school and I'll have to get at least 5? (read somewhere odd numbers were best) for them to feel comfortable? <Mm, the odd number thing is bologna - it's just important to have them in a school of several. Again, I'd do platies instead of tetras, here; if you're totally bent on having Neons, yeah, no less than five.> I would like to add some color (blue, red, orange, etc) to my tank that are not bottom dwellers. <Yup, you want platies! Err, at least, they satisfy your color desires :) A trio of platies and your small group of Corys would do well in this tank, provided you keep water quality in check.> Lost interest in goldfish because of how messy they are. <Ahh, dig a pond! You'll get interested again right away. Goldfish are AWESOME, given the proper environment. Wishing you well, -Sabrina> Restocking - III? IV? - 08/30/2005 Hi WWM Crew, <Hi, Wayne! Ya got me again!> Sabrina answered my last couple of emails about restocking my tank and I didn't give a complete description of what's in my tank (sorry). <No worries.> My Tank: 10 gallon AquaClear All Glass Tank Light Hood Whisper 20 Power Filter w/ Biofoam (this black foam that slips in front of the filter cartridge) Whisper 10 - 30 air pump A bubble wall An action pirate ship bubbler 10 plastic plants of different kinds (small - medium) Small fake log with silk plants attached Small Easter Island Statue Small natural color shallow creek pebbles (I think) <Sounds like plenty of great cover for the Corys to feel safe.> I currently have 4 Corydoras paleatus, 3 males about 1 inch long and a female about 1.5 inches long, look like they are doing great. I had 2 of them for a couple of months now and the other 2 for a month or 2. My tank has a regular temperature of 78 to 82 degrees and when winter time rolls around I'll drop a heater in to maintain a steady temp. The ammonia is 0, nitrite is 0, and nitrate is rising but I am doing water changes to keep it down around 20ppm. <Try to get this lower - otherwise it sounds awesome so far.> Now I would like to start adding more fish to the mix. From reading/receiving information from your site, I've narrowed my choices down to a couple fish I would like to add to my tank. I definitely want to add a couple more Corys, either panda Corys or peppered Corys, to my 4 peppered Corys. <Either would be fine, I think.> For tetras, I like Black Phantoms, Flame, Glowlights, Lemon, and Pristella and for Rasboras, I like the Harlequin and Scissortail. If I were to get panda Corys, how many would I need to get for it to feel comfortable around my peppered Corys. I'm afraid one panda Cory wouldn't school with the other peppered Corys. <Agreed; your best bet is to stick with peppered Corys, and plan some day in the future to go with a larger tank and do a same- or similarly-sized school of pandas.> As for the tetras and Rasboras, how many could I get so as not to overstock my 10 gallon tank. I learned the hard way before with an overstock of goldfish. <So many people do! Don't feel alone in this!> I know tetras and Rasboras like to be kept in a school of 5 or more. <If at all possible, yes.> Is it possible for me to get at least 2 different types of fish without overstocking my tank? I am thinking of around 5 - 7 Corys total and 2 different schools of tetras and/or Rasboras with 5 or more in each school. <I would go with the 5-7 Corys and one type of tetra or Rasbora.... And just five of those. A 10g tank just isn't forgiving on water quality once you begin to reach the stocking limits. And again, if possible, consider a larger tank in the future.... some time down the road.... to have more options.> If you have any other combinations and amounts of the types of fish I could keep I would really appreciate it! <Just as above - pick your favorite of your list (possibly omitting the Pristellas for their pretty harsh aggression) and go with five or six of those. Then in the future, when you're addicted and go up to a 29g or 55g tank, well.... the possibilities are nearly endless!> Thanks again WWM Crew! <And thanks for being such a great, conscientious fishkeeper.> Wayne <Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Are my Corys stressed? Hi there, I'm new to tropical fish having had a cold water system for a few years. I have a small setup of about 8 (UK) gallons - yes I know it's odd! I'm currently cycling my system with 4 Trilineatus Corys. I've had them for a week now but I'm really worried that they're not happy. They don't stay at the bottom of the tank; they swim in the middle and up and down the sides of the tank and only go to the bottom when they're hungry. Now I've noticed that their gills are going pink. I've done ammonia tests and the levels are 0. What am I doing wrong? I don't want to lose them -they're too cute! Can you help please? Thanks, Sau <Hi Sau, Yes, if you are cycling your tank it is producing Ammonia and then nitrites, both of which are deadly to fish. Cycling means that the nitrogen cycle is establishing itself and producing these wastes. You should be testing for ammonia/nitrites and the final product nitrates. Please read more about the nitrogen cycle at WetWebMedia.com and perform regular water changes to relieve your fish from these wastes. This should help, Craig>
Re: are my Corys stressed? Hi Craig, Thanks for the advice, I'll get reading. Since last emailing, I've tested for ammonia, nitrite and Ph. Ammonia is 0 and Nitrite 0.1 and Ph is 8.6. Could the alkaline water be bothering them? Their gills are still pink. <These fish are sensitive to hard water. This may be your problem.> I also wonder why they are so jumpy. They flinch and hide every time I lift the hatch to feed them and swim up and down the front of the tank constantly. Do you think they're scared at the moment because there are not many fish in the tank? <No, I suspect nitrites, ammonia if there is nitrite, and also hard water indicated by 8.6pH. I was going to buy two more Corys this weekend so they had a bigger family to shoal with and perhaps not be so scared. Do you think this is a good idea? Thanks for helping, Sau <After addressing the current situation, yes, but I wouldn't until then. Check out http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/callichthyids.htm There is lots of info you need there, especially health, source and water issues. Craig>

Up late stressing about my four Corys <Ananda here this late night/early morning, fielding the puffer questions...> I just did what now seems to be a very stupid thing. I had an overflow of snails so I read all about loaches and went to the local aquarium store to buy myself a small pack of them, having read they where a schooling fish. I was a little nervous about this and was easily manipulated by the evil aquarium experts? . <Always stick to your guns when you have researched something...keep in mind that the people at the store are trying to sell you something and that non-commercial web sites about fish generally have the fishes' best interests at heart.> Anyways they told me I would be better off buying a single Puffer fish, and after asking what fish I already had in my aquarium told me to add a teaspoon of rock salt per gallon of water to my aquarium. <Knowing you had Corydoras catfish? Shame on them!!> It has been a little over a week now and my Cory Catfish are not eating, and I just read that Corys can not tolerate salt, <Usually not well at all. I would do a 50% water change with no salt in the new water.> but I now have a green spotted puffer fish as well. <Cute and intelligent fish, requiring salt as they mature.> Tell me how to safe my fishies without buying a second aquarium please. :( <Oh my. That is difficult, because the puffer needs salt, and the Corys can't tolerate it. Very young green-spotted puffers (under 2" in length) can tolerate freshwater for short periods. But your long-term solution is another tank for the puffer.> <Best wishes, Ananda>

Fluorite and Corydoras I am planning to start a 37 gallon tank with angelfish and Corydoras. I have the plants planted in fluorite. Is the fluorite okay for the Corydoras or will it hurt their barbells? Marc <Hi, Marc - it's not so much their barbels I'd be worried about, but their soft, scaleless bellies.... Fluorite is pretty sharp stuff, and I think that is a good concern. Would you consider covering the fluorite with a thin layer of smooth gravel? If you get gravel of a slightly larger size, it should primarily stay on top of the fluorite, even when you siphon/vacuum. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Fluorite and Corydoras, II Sabrina, I've pretty much decided to switch the fluorite out for Eco-Complete. <A much more 'roundy' plant tank substrate, probably much nicer on Cory bellies!> I might reserve one section of the tank for some Tahitian moon sand, too. <Do keep in mind, sand will ultimately settle beneath the Eco-Complete; you may never get a chance to enjoy it, really. Might want to think about a gravel of a slightly larger diameter than the plant substrate, and just laying a thin layer over the top.> Thanks for the help. Marc <You bet. Wishing you, your plants and Corys well, -Sabrina>