FAQs on Jack Dempseys Foods, Feeding,
Nutrition
Related Articles: Jack Dempseys, Oscars, Neotropical Cichlids, African Cichlids, Dwarf South American Cichlids, Cichlid Fishes in General,
Related FAQs: Jack
Dempseys 1, Jack Dempseys 2,
& FAQs on: Jack Dempseys
Identification, Jack Dempseys
Behavior, Jack Dempseys
Compatibility, Jack Dempseys
Selection, Jack Dempseys
Systems, Jack Dempseys Disease,
Jack Dempseys Reproduction, &
Oscars 2, Neotropical Cichlids 1, Cichlids of the World, Cichlid Systems, Cichlid Identification, Cichlid Behavior, Cichlid Compatibility, Cichlid Selection, Cichlid Feeding, Cichlid Disease, Cichlid Reproduction,
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Electric Blue Jack Dempsey, Not eating and almost no poop.
No rdg. 2/11/14
<Mmm, why? And what conditions, foods...>
Short story, through my own ignorance and incompetence (and I thought I
was doing everything right) my EBJD suffered a bout of HITH or HLLE
about 1 1/2 to 2 years ago (yes, tank was overstocked then, and probably
still is). I then changed the lighting fixture last year and had an
algae bloom from hell (nearly 9 months). During this time, I did
perform weekly 30-50% water changes with gravel vacuuming - a couple
times up to 75%. Mind you, I did not have a test kit at this time. I
cleared the bloom just recently utilizing a UV sterilizer, and noticed
that he wasn't eating. Prior, if his appetite was decreasing, which may
have gone unnoticed, I didn't clear the uneaten food and this probably
contributed to the bloom along with my stupidly rinsing filter media in
tap water. I now have a test kit, and have determined I must do a
minimal 30-50% water change with vacuuming twice a week to keep nitrates
from going over 20,
<? Read on WWM re NO3 control... why not?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/NO3ContrF.htm
and the linked files above>
instead of the once weekly that I had been doing. The holes from his
HITH or HLLE seem to have healed. No new pits.
<Do you use vitamins?>
He has not been eating anything or pooping anything (until a little bit
now-pooping that is), though he looks and acts okay. He will not
eat anything. I've tried cooked peas soaked in garlic.
<Yuck... try somethings more palatable... Worms of many sorts,
insect larvae, crustaceans...>
No go. He does go to the back of the tank when the lights are on but swims
around a bit when they're off. I finally saw some poop and I have
attached the photos (best I could get). It isn't what I would call
stringy, but it is a translucent very pale green. He also has a slight
bulge on his left side. I don't want to just throw meds at him
willy-nilly as usually this causes more problems or even fatalities. I
currently have SeaChem Metronidazole**on hand but have not used, yet.
<IF you go this route, make it a one-time administration. See WWM re
why, dosing, dosage>
I like this guy and I hope being a survivor of my what I thought was
care, he can pull through.
I do not have a quarantine tank.
*Current Parameters:* 36g bowfront corner, Temp: 78d, PH 7.8, Ammonia:
0, Nitrites:0, Nitrates: 5, T5HO twin 24" lighting, Fluval 305 filter
currently running one basket carbon, one polishing pads, one ceramic
biomedia, River stone gravel, 4 plants.
He is now about 6" from nose to end of tail.
Tank mates: 1 6" plecostomus(will probably have to re-home), 2 Mystery
snails
Thank you,
Lois
<.... search, read... think, act. Bob Fenner>
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Re: Electric Blue Jack Dempsey 2/11/14
Thank you for your response. Again, ignorance was/is at play. He was being
fed primarily Hikari Gold pellets and he would snag algae wafers. At times
freeze dried bloodworms and occasional flake food. No I haven't given him
vitamins. I'll hit the lfs for some worms of some type and see if they have
vitamins.
<Do dig about in your yard for earthworms... a fave. See WWM re Feeding of
Dempseys period>
Do you feel there is any significance to the bm of that color?
<Not really; no.>
I do hesitate on medicating and will hold off for now. I may change the
water 3 times per week. I'll check out the no3 link you provided when I get
home from work.
Thank you.
Lois
<And I would move that Pleco... may be harassing. BobF>
Re: Electric Blue Jack Dempsey 2/11/14
Again thanks.
I'll dig out in the yard when the temp gets above 12F average we've been
having and there isn't 2' of snow :)
<Yeeikes. Down to the seventies F. today in San Diego. I even had to put on
a long-sleeve tee!>
And I've already spoke to the lfs about rehoming the Pleco, and they'll take
him in trade for some worms and other goodies.
<Ah good. B>
Re: Electric Blue Jack Dempsey
2/15/14
Mr. Fenner:
I brought the Pleco to the lfs and picked up some earthworms.
Mr. Dempsey seemed interested and did try to eat the worms. He
would repeatedly pick it up and spit it out and after doing this a few
times he would swim away. I've tried giving him the worms a
few times.
<Keep trying; daily>
Each attempt, I would make the worm smaller and smaller and the result
was the same. I then tried Mysis shrimp and he would spit them
out. I'm at a loss really. Do you recommend the
Metronidazole?
<Mmm; not unless there's good reason to believe it would be of benefit>
I read the info on WWM regarding dosing. Since he isn't eating, I
assume I have to add to the tank water, but according to the site, this
is not very effective.
<Correct>
I guess I don't have too many options. :(
Lois
<Patience; hope... and frequent partial water changes! BobF>
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Re: Ornate Bichir and Jack Dempsey (problems) Now
the latter's fdg. 12/14/11
Bob and crew,
<JL>
Thank you so much for the reply. I ended taking the Jack to the fish
store on a Saturday morning. I immediately regretted this and missed
him enough to go back for him on Monday. i took the foot long Bichir in
and hope he finds a happy home. So my question is ... how often should
i feed my Jack?
<Mmm, this depends... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/dempseyfdgf.htm
I've never had him in the tank alone and would feed every
other day and all the food would be gone but this was in part because
the Bichir would eat whatever was at the bottom. Is feeding every other
day the way to go for a single Jack?
<If it is of size, as yours is, this should be fine. BobF>
EBJD's Poor Eating Habit
8/3/11
I have owned my 8 inches (head-to-tail fin) Electric Blue Jack
Dempsey since it was about 3 inches over 1 1/2-years ago. At
that time, I had him with a Green Terror and fed my 55 gallon tank
about 1-2 times daily with flakes in the morning and meat (i.e. krill,
bloodworms, etc) after work, so my EBJD has always access to a decently
well-rounded diet (Note: I gave my Terror away about 1 year ago...that
fish ate any food type that I put in the tank). However, my EBJD will
only eat frozen bloodworms. Since I've owned it, he has never taken
to pellets or flakes (I've tried all major brands to be sure) and
also refuses to even eat any other frozen foods, including silversides,
beef heart, krill, shrimp, etc. About 4 days ago, I purchased live
ghost shrimp and live brine shrimp and he never touched the brine
shrimp (although the next day, all but one of 8-10 ghosts were bitten
clean in half).
I've read on WetWebMedia a week or so back that I should attempt
mixing bloodworms with flake at feeding times; I tried that for about 3
straight days to no avail. However, when I drop a cube of frozen
bloodworms into the tank, my EBJD hardily accepts every time.
So, basically my question is two-part: (1) Should I continue to attempt
to "force" him into a healthier diet, inclusive of
pellets/flakes; and (2) will my EBJD's long-term health be on the
line if I cave and solely feed it the bloodworms that it wants on a
daily basis?
<Cichlids eat readily when healthy, and generally aren't picky.
So my concern isn't "what does he want to eat" but
"what's keeping him from being interesting in food". With
cichlids, a good place to start is water quality. Check, in particular,
nitrate level as well as the usual ammonia and nitrite. If the tank has
been set up a while, but the fish has grown, then you can easily have
reached a point where ammonia, nitrite and nitrate production have
passed over a critical threshold. Improved filtration (i.e.,
more/bigger filters) and more water changes could help. Certainly, do a
big water change, get nitrate down to below 20 mg/l, and ensure nitrite
and ammonia are zero. Next, check water chemistry. The bigger the mass
of fish in a tank, the faster acidification occurs, so again,
there's a threshold point where the mass of fish is such that any
pH drop between water changes can be big enough to harm your fish.
Finally, review water temperature. During summer temperatures above 25
C/77 F are common, and warm water contains less oxygen, and that can
affect cichlids. Cooling the tank is helpful. Cheers, Neale.>
last 3-4 weeks my 7-8" Jack Dempsey will not eat
Dempsey Not Eating Again 6/29/10
For the last 3-4 weeks my 7-8" Jack Dempsey will not eat. During
feedings he will shutter his head, sometimes violently. He did this
before 8-10 months ago but that only lasted 2-3 weeks. He shows no
outward signs of disease. Any suggestions as to what could be
wrong?
< Could be something caught in his throat like a plastic plant leaf
or he has damaged the pharyngeal bones in his throat by eating
something too hard. Offer a soft food like presoaked pellets or small
flake food and see if he can take those for now. The bones may heal
over time.-Chuck>
Dear WWM, I was wondering 6/21/10
Dear WWM, I was wondering what the best type of food for a Jack
Dempsey is worms, pellets or feeder fish?
<Do not ever use feeder fish. These are "parasite bombs"
that will eventually make your fish sick. Cyprinids such as goldfish
and minnows also contain fat and thiaminase that causes nutritional
problems. Good quality flake or pellet food, e.g., Hikari Cichlid Gold,
makes a fine staple.
Augment with earthworms, small pieces of tilapia fillet, and chopped
seafood as you prefer. Cheers, Neale.>
Dear WWM, if I have
Dear WWM, if I have 2 Jack Dempseys will having feeder fish in
the tank
increase or decrease there aggression toward each other
<The use of feeder fish tends to make fish MORE aggressive. The use
of feeder fish is also unsafe, unhealthy, and inhumane. There are NO
GOOD REASONS to use feeder fish. Cheers, Neale.>
Jack Dempsey Not Eating - Behavior or Illness? Hi, just found
your wonderful website this morning, and hoping you can advise me on a
sick Jack Dempsey. I have a 65 gallon tank with 2 - 10"
Oscars and 1 - 6" Dempsey. I have had the tank for 3 years, and
these are my original fish, purchased as infants. In the past week, I
have noticed the Dempsey not eating, and hiding behind a couple of
plastic plants I keep in the tank. I keep the tank at 78 degrees,
maintain aquarium salt at 1 tbspoon/7 gallons, and do weekly water
changes (about 12 gallons each week). The Dempsey looks fine, great
color, no external signs of illness other than his shrinking
stomach. I have noticed he is timid around the ever-growing
Oscars, and has always "eaten second". Am I dealing with an
internal parasite, or is there a possibility this is a behaviour
problem and he needs a separate tank? This fish has become an "old
friend" so I would greatly appreciate any advice. THANK YOU! <
A couple of things come to mind. Sometimes these large fish eat all
kinds of stuff that get stuck in their throat or damage their second
set of jaws or their pharyngeal bones. Try and see if anything is stuck
in his mouth with a flashlight. If nothing looks like it is stuck there
then try to presoak the food and make it softer. If he is still not
eating because he is so intimidated by the Oscars then it might be time
for a new tank.-Chuck>
Chokin' Your Jack! I've had my jack Dempsey in a ten
gallon tank for a while and now moved him into a 30....everything
seemed fine tell now when I feed him his food he will eat one pellet
then quickly rush down to the bottom and lose color and will not go
back up and eat again...he is acting very strange only when he eats.
can you help me.... < Could be he is choking on the pellet.
Try and presoak a pellet so it is not so hard and then give it to him.
If he has the same reaction then I would switch to flakes or a
different food and see how he reacts.-Chuck>
African Cichlid Tank Size, feeding Dempseys 11/12/06 I
currently have 3 butterfly male peacocks in a 20 gallon long. Two
cichlid "experts" told me this will work fine with no other
fish in the tank. <Mmm...> It's been 2 months and so far they
are doing fine. I will soon be acquiring 2 yellow labs from a friend
and want to add them with the peacocks. I have a 30 gallon tank I could
set up for all of them. Will this work okay for them or do I need a
bigger tank yet? <Bigger would be better, but the thirty might
work> Also, I have 2 Electric Blue Jack Dempseys (approximately 2
inches long) in a 60 gallon tank. They will not eat anything but blood
worms. They refuse flakes and pellets. I know they need more variety in
their diet, so how can I get them to eat something else? Thanks for
your help, Kelly Jones <Try Spectrum pelleted food... Highly
palatable, and mix some of this in with the bloodworms in increasing
concentration... Bob Fenner>
Jack Dempsey Hooked On Blood Worms 11/27/06
I have a 2 inch electric blue jack Dempsey and he is in a 60 gallon
tank. He has been pooping stringy white for several days. He is eating
fine (although he refuses to eat anything but bloodworms) and moving
around fine. Water tests all measure zero for ammonia, nitrites, and
nitrates. No signs of ick on him or other fish in the tank, and the
others poop the normal brown/black poop. Is the poop from eating only
bloodworms or is it reason to be concerned about something else? Thanks
for your help, Kelly < Don't feed him for three days then offer
a few blood worms with some other foods like Spectrum pellets. Over
time his blood worm only diet will cause problems.-Chuck>
Worms in my tank 4/10/07 Hello, I have been
reading your site and it has been really helpful, but to be sure
I just wanted to explain my situation and see what you
thought. I have a 75 gallon freshwater tank with one
Jack Dempsey cichlid and a algae eater (not sure of the real
name) <Algae eater is probably Gyrinocheilus aymonieri, a
nasty son-of-a-gun and a Jack Dempsey is one of the few fish that
would be able to handle it. Big (30 cm), greenish fish with
distinctive spiracle (opening) above each gill slit.> They
both seem very healthy, very vibrant in color. I was
looking very closely and I saw very thin hair looking worms that
didn't really move. The only reason I new they were living
things is because I poked one with my finger and it
squiggled. There are only a few of these worm things
and I was wondering if it was a parasite from my Jacks stomach.
<Unlikely. Parasitic worms sometimes come in with wild-caught
fish, but they don't wiggle about in the gravel. If you see a
swollen belly and/or worms protruding from the anus, then
parasite worms are possible. Otherwise these are harmless
nematodes or oligochaetes that have (for example) come in with
live food.> The only reason why I'm concerned with this is
because lately he hasn't had and appetite. Any
thoughts on this? <Try using garlic to stimulate appetite. You
can even buy ready-garlicked frozen food! Also try starving the
fish for a few days, and then offering something new. Maybe some
seafood or a bit of whitebait instead of the usual flake and
pellets. One thing aquarists often overlook is dried food loses
its savour after a while. Though safe to use for months after
opening, after about 4 weeks it doesn't smell strong enough
and many fish ignore it. If you buy big tubs, divide it up,
freeze most of it in a dry container, and remove only a portion
at a time. Maybe check for constipation (yes, happens to fish
too) a remedy by offering green foods such as cooked peas.>
Thanks for your time, <No probs. Cheers, Neale> Jennifer
Re: Worms in my tank 4/13/07 Hello again!
<Hello again!> You were so Helpful the last time I wrote,
<Glad to help...> I wanted to ask one more question in
regards to my Jack Dempsey's eating problem. I
Didn't know about the food going old and it totally makes
since and thanks for that. <A safe rule is think what
you'd eat. Would *you* eat cereal from a box that'd been
opened for months? Probably not. Your fish aren't wild about
old food either.> But the part that got me thinking was about
maybe him being constipated, so I was looking at him and his
stomach does seem swollen. I looked at his area and it does seem
like some stuff wants to come out but cant and it's a whitish
color with a little pink color the color of his
food) I was also looking around the tank and I saw
what defiantly looked like a bowel movement but not the usual
color. <Interesting. Certainly, constipation is one possible
problem. I'd certainly recommend not using dried foods for a
while, and instead going for high-fibre things like whole krill
and Mysid shrimps plus cooked peas. Whole mussels would be good,
too, as they contain a gut filled with algae.> It was a clear
jelly substance. (definitely a bowel movement) I have
not fed him in 2 days and plan on feeding him some cooked peas
tonight. <He may look at you like, what? you expect me to
*eat* these... but persevere. Squish the peas if you like,
sometimes that helps. Don't worry about starving... an adult
JD can go two weeks without food and not come to harm. In fact
most fish can fast for long periods, and often have to during the
"off" season.> Hopefully that will do the trick. He
also stays in one spot all day practically, on the bottom behind
a plant. This is fairly new. <Means he's
unhappy, probably. Whether sick or simply out of sorts, who
knows, but do the food thing and also check the water
quality/chemistry.> I did do a 15% water change last night and
he was swimming around for about 10 minutes after the new water
was in, then he went back to his spot. <Ah, interesting. Do a
bigger water change, 50%, today, and then see what happens. If
that helps, then water problems may be the key. Don't forget
to check the temperature: people often overlook this. Too warm or
too cold, and the fish get unhappy/sick.> Other than these
behaviors his color looks very healthy. The PH may be
a little high. It is a little above 7.0. <Hang on a second...
where was the pH before? JDs don't like acidic water at all.
In the wild they are found in waters between 7.0 and 8.0
(according to Fishbase anyway) and I'd certainly recommend
keeping these (and other Central Americans) at pH 7.5, no less.
Central Americans are generally incredibly hardy, but I
wouldn't take that as an excuse not to optimize the
conditions to their benefit. Raise the pH by either adding some
coral sand and/or crushed coral to the aquarium substrate and
filter, or else by adding a one-quarter to one-half dose of
Malawi "salt" mix to the water when you make up each
batch. What you want is pH 7.5 and a hardness of "moderately
hard" to "hard" on whatever scale you're
using. Don't use tonic salt or marine salt -- salinity
isn't what you're after here, you want to pH and
hardness.> Also where would I find food with garlic in it, or
do I have to add garlic my self? <You buy it ready made. I use
the frozen food sort, I believe it's beef hearts with garlic,
minced up into cubes. To be honest, most of my fish aren't
wild about it, but cichlids seem to enjoy it, and many aquarists
swear by the stuff.> I just have one more question!! What is
the best way to feed frozen bloodworms? When I do it I just put
the cube in a cup with warm water to defrost it then I put in the
worms a little at a time. Even then they fall to the bottom
before my Jack has a chance to eat them. <Defrost in a small
cup filled with a bit of water (I use the plastic dosing cups
that come with medications). Remove the worms using forceps or
tweezers. Discard the murky water left behind into the sink (or a
pot plant!). What you don't want is to pour that water into
the aquarium -- all it does is add nitrate to the system.>
Thanks so much for your time and your responses. I
promise I won't bother you all the time:)- Jennifer <Take
care, Neale>
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