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FAQs about "Freshwater" Morays Eel Systems
Related FAQs:
"FW" Moray Eels,
FW Moray ID,
FW Moray Behavior,
FW Moray Compatibility,
FW Moray Selection,
FW Moray Feeding,
FW Moray Disease, FW Moray Reproduction,
Marine Moray
Eels,
Related Articles: Freshwater Moray
Eels by Marco Lichtenberger,
Freshwater Moray Eels,
Moray Eels, Other Marine Eels,
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True Freshwater Moray found? Impossible? – 02/06/09
Hello, Hello Moray Experts :)
<Hi Trevor.>
Trevor here with some fairly
interesting things to discuss, it seems, perhaps, as supported by about.com and
Fishbase that there is, perhaps a true freshwater moray? Even the About staff
seem to have been confused at first but say it's confirmed. If not it seems they
should be corrected ASAP because it was very misleading if they're wrong.
<Feel free to do so, the text is around since a few years.>
The eel in
question is Gymnothorax polyuranodon.
<Ah… know it, kept it.>
Supposedly they've dug deep into their research,
whatever that may be, and found that this moray lives primarily in fresh water.
It seems suspicious, as I look over to my Gymnothorax tile next to me and think
that they must be confused. Certainly, it's a brackish fish, as they list it as
venturing into brackish water, right?
<G. tile mostly occurs in mangrove
swamps with high salinities or 100% marine salinity during the dry season. It
also travels up river mouths, possibly to get rid of parasites or to breed. In
captivity it does best in a marine tank.>
I found all this somewhat
interesting and wondered if it could really be true. One more question, would
you happen to know the pricing on this "Spotted Freshwater Moray?"
<The ones
in Europe cost the equivalent of about 60-80 USD in the stores, they only
available every few years.>
Even if they are brackish, I've been thinking
about getting another moray. These are quite attractive. Fishbase:
http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=17227&lang=English
<I exchanged your link, because the English server seemed to be down when I
tried.>
About.com's "Freshwater" Moray list:
http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/eelprofilesindex/l/blfweels.htm
Thanks,
Trevor
<Trevor I know the text at the site you linked to and have most of
what is known to science re this eel as well as own experiences and reported
experiences of others from the pet fish trade. As you can see G. polyuranodon
occurs in various habitats from freshwater to marine, was found as far as 30 km
away from the coast. It’s even speculated this eel could be catadromous (living
in freshwater, but travelling to the sea at breeding time), you can call it an
euryhaline fish. With regard to its captive care, I’ve tried everything from
freshwater to marine and have to state that they did by far the best in a marine
tank, while the ones left in freshwater at the shop did much less well, refused
to eat with time, looked much less vibrant. So, G. polyuranodon does much better
in freshwater than its G. tile cousin, but still at some point of care you will
not be able to avoid salt completely without endangering the health of the
animal. But it is a great pet and truly justifies the additional costs related
to a marine setup. Have a look at the WWM articles on freshwater moray eels:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwmorayeels.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwmorayart.htm
No pet moray
without salt. Sorry. Marco.>
Re: True Freshwater Moray found? Impossible? II, fdg., sys. –
02/07/09
Hey again Marco,
<Hi Trevor.>
Well, a question about
the other eel, (not G. tile, but polyuranodon). How hard is it to get them to
eat?
<Just the same a G. tile or other morays. May take days to weeks, but
given pristine water conditions and salt they’ll eventually start eating. G.
polyuranodon is a little more shy, and although they may become longer than G.
tile, they are even slimmer and remind me somewhat of ribbon eels.>
My G.
tile eats just fine in his brackish water setup and even comes out to
investigate his tank at night. ...and one last thing. Is it normal for a G. tile
to bulk up?
<Yes to some extent about once a year I notice a slight gain of
girth. I guess that may be prior to their breeding time. With age they also
become a little more stout.>
I've seen the small, skinny ones all the time
though, I'd like mine to pick up some weight. He does eat regularly, but he just
does not eat all that much. It's as if he's set to eat a predetermined amount
every day.
<Just don’t overfeed. This can cause liver problems in the long
run. If it does not want to eat anymore, it’s okay.>
He's healthy, a deep
gray/blue color with tiny bright-yellow spots on him. The mollies don't stand a
chance, and the bits of squid, octopus and silversides are relished as well. I
try and rotate his diet to give him enrichment and some good nutrition. I think
I'm doing everything correctly so far.
<Yes. You can add fish vitamins once
a week to the frozen foods.>
The eel is very responsive to food and is always looking out across the room
from his PVC pipe that's buried in the gravel. Speaking of gravel, is it better
to keep them on sand or gravel?
<Does not matter.>
The guy at the
fish-specialty store told me morays prefer sand to gravel but... I always see
them in reefs where there's no sand, and they certainly don't hang out in the
open all day although I do know from videos online that they come out at night
and hunt for fish among the rocks and coral.
<As G. tile comes from mostly
mangrove swamps and estuaries, a fine grained substrate like sand does resemble
its natural environment more closely. However, for captive care it does not
matter, the usual aquarium gravel or even better crushed coral is fine. Just
avoid substrates with sharp grains. Personally, I prefer sand for the moray
tanks, too, for the purpose of natural denitrification, which takes place in
well populated marine sand beds. As a side note, many moray eels do not inhabit
the reefs, but sea grass beds, gravel fields and muddy bottoms.>
Any further
advice? Thanks, Trevor.
<You seem to be doing very well. Marco.>
Gymnothorax tile, hlth./env. 9/25/08
alright, i got
one of these guys out of a freshwater tank, however he didn't seem to be doing
so well.
<This species never does well in freshwater aquaria, at least not
for long.>
then i researched and found that he was a brackish water species.
so i added sea salt, but added too much over a long long period of time. my
salinity is 1.025 as of now and let me tell you, he has grown at least 6 inches
and is doing great in full marine water.
<Not a problem for this species.
Wild fish live in river estuaries, and can tolerate rapid changes in salinity
well. Maintenance at marine salinities is not harmful, and in fact mid brackish
(SG 1.010+) to full marine conditions are perhaps the ideal.>
is this eel
actually a marine eel?
<He can be, without any harm at all. In the wild they
don't live permanently in the sea, but like most brackish water fish, will do
just fine in a marine tank.>
he seems to be doing better in the full marine
than he was in the brackish water! he's in a 12o gallon tank, FOWLR.
<I'm
sure he's very happy! Enjoy your pet. Cheers, Neale.>
29gal G. tile – 09/06/08
I have a 29 gallon tank that for the longest time was brackish with HOB filters.
I once had 3 GSP's in it, but they grew up and were given to a friend. It now
houses a g. tile of around 10 inches. I have moved the sg up to 1.025 from 1.015
and ph to 8.4, got some actinic and 10k
lights, and a SuperSkimmer that isn't
giving any problems other than the skimmate is wetter than I'd like.
<Should
be adjustable with the water-level adjustment dial.>
I put 9lbs of live rock
in there, with more to come as money allows.
<Good.>
Strangely, the eel
has really taken to the LR, he seems much happier with it around.
There are
also mollies of various sizes, a population that has been in the tank for food
since it was first cycled. I'd say, maybe 3 left over an inch that he hasn't
eaten and perhaps 30 under a half inch, the eel waits until they are bigger to
eat them.
<Interesting!>
Everything else in the tank is zero, nitrates
before dumping the liverock in were barely being kept under control. Waiting a
few days to test after adding the liverock.
Is there anything you can suggest
to keep the nitrates under control between water changes?
<Replace the HOB
with a powerhead and more good live rock (up to one pound per gallon or even a
little more). That alone might solve the issue if your freshly mixed water is
free of nitrates and the tank is not overfed. Another possibility would be to
use an overflow (secured with a net or mesh because of the moray) and a second
tank (aka sump) with a refugium with a DSB and macroalgae. Reduce the number of
the Mollies, if the eel does not eat them as they are growing. Also see
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm and the linked FAQs.>
I am
considering building a coil denitrifier to keep the water changes to every 2
weeks instead of twice a week.
<Would be a possibility, too. Many
construction plans are found on the internet. However, if this thing does not
work as intended, it can poison your tank. So, when you decide to take this path
I’d recommend to invest into a RedOx (ORP) measuring device and ideally an
automatic shut-off if the ORP in the water flowing/dropping back into the tank
is too low. Cheers, Marco.>
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Snow flake in upper end
brackish tank? (RMF, please check)
2/24/08
hey guys and gals,
????????????????????????????????? I just recently set up a 40 long as a brackish
tank. its been running for about 5 days already and I put in some "test mollies"
to see how the water is. the mollies have been eatin and seem fine. my ph is
8.2, SG is .014 and I have a mixture of sand and crushed coral. I originally was
gonna get a "fresh water" (really brackish) moray eel (g. tile) but ended up
getting a 7" snowflake. I slowly acclimated it over 2 hours into my brackish
tank because it came from full salt water. its been about 5 days and it seems to
be doing fine (eating well). can this specie be kept in a upper end brackish
tank? has anyone done this with a snowflake or am I ultimately cutting his life
short? thanks!------------------> Ronnie
<Gymnothorax tile is indeed an estuarine moray eel and tolerant of a wide range
of salinities, but to the best of my knowledge Echidna nebulosa is not. While it
may do well for a while at a reduce salinity, I can't imagine it can be kept
indefinitely in brackish water, at least not below SG 1.018. There is nothing to
stop you maintain brackish water fish at SG 1.018+, and indeed Monos, Scats, etc
will positively thrive in marine and near-marine conditions. So I would suggest
that doing that would be a better way to keep this fish. Alternatively, return
the Echidna nebulosa to the pet store, and keep your eyes peeled for Gymnothorax
tile. Finding Gymnothorax tile is not difficult; it is quite a widely traded
species, and any half-decent aquarium shop can get it in as a special order.
Cheers, Neale.> <<Hard to say/state which
species this young person is referring to... I'd put the onus on them to look
up, identify... RMF>>
Re: snow flake in upper end
brackish tank? (RMF, please check), not brackish...
2/27/08
its not g. tile its echidna neb.
<Mmm, please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/snowflakemoray.htm
and the linked files above. This Moray should be kept in full-strength
seawater. Anything less will shorten its life-span. Bob Fenner> |
Acclimating a moray eel from freshwater to brackish 03/23/07
I am considering getting a Gymnothorax tile from an LFS that has a
relatively small one 6-8", but is in freshwater. I have a brackish water tank
and was wondering what exactly I would need to do so that he would be ok.
<Put the moray eel into a container with aeration and add a lid. Slowly add
water from your brackish tank for about one to two hours until the water in your
bucket consists of about 70-80 percent of tank water. Carefully transfer the eel
to your display tank. You may also use drip acclimating. Their natural habitats
in part have diurnal cyclic salinity changes, so this procedure can be
considered safe. I did use it to transfer them from freshwater to marine and did
not experience any problems.>
Would I have to place him in a separate tank and slowly raise the salinity?
<It is not necessary, but you could do that, if you had a cycled tank with a
lid. Do not increase the specific gravity more than 0.003 per week to avoid
killing filter bacteria.>
How much time would it require for this process? I have a 5 and 10 gallon tanks
not in use and if I could get away with it I was wondering if one of these would
suffice to get him acclimated to brackish. From my understanding suddenly
placing fish in lower salinity is not nearly as dangerous as placing them in
higher levels. Is this true?
<In general: yes.>
As far as feeding goes, would ghost shrimp be suitable along with guppies with
this species?
<Yes, but only to get it to eat. Their diet should be more varied, frozen
seafood from the grocery store is perfect.> Thank you. <Welcome. Cheers, Marco.>
Eel needing a hiding spot 03/08/07
Hi, I realize there are tons of questions posted and I’ve read a lot of
them. Unfortunately, I also have school work and the tons of projects that arise
every time I look at that tank. Anyway my most recent problem is a nitrite
spike.
<Nitrites (not to be confused with nitrates) are quite toxic and should only
occur while cycling a tank.>
The fish are taking it well with the exception of the princess parrot, <Good
luck with this fish. I hope he is big enough. Have a look at
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pufferFAQs.htm and search
for princess parrot.> who is now waiting it out in a local fish store, while I
fix the problem. Anyway, because of this spike I’m trying to find out about my
snowflake eels recent new behaviour. Him and the chainlink eel used to pal
around in the rock pile I put together for them. I recently restacked the rocks
to keep other fish out that didn’t need to be in there. The new stack seems to
allow for more light to get in through the cracks. The chainlink eel is still in
the rocks, but the snowflake is wrapped around my pump at the top of the tank in
a darker corner. He usually eats when offered and I’ve been using the eating as
an indicator that they are not getting too stressed out by this latest nitrite
spike (the chainlink still voraciously seeks food). Either way, is this new
hiding spot of his, because there’s too much light in his old spot <probably> or
an indicator that the nitrite is pushing him a bit too far <won’t be good for
him anyway.>. Please let me know so I can help him fast if he needs to find a
new home for a little while. -James Williams. <An excellent article with ideas
for hiding spots for moray eels is found at:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/eels/Eels.htm. If possible
remove both of them to another tank until your nitrite problem is solved. That
way you will also have the possibility to rearrange your rocks or to install
tubes as hiding spots if you like them. Cheers, Marco.>
Freshwater Moray Eels
I really appreciate the time that you took for this site.
<Ah, you're welcome. It was made for you.>
I would like to buy a fresh water Moray Eel. I guess I need some help and no
one in pet stores really know anything about freshwater. I am going to put it in
a 75-100 gallon tank. What kind of sand should I put down?
<Something fine/r... and calcareous. Please see the "Marine Substrates" section
and "Moray Eels" under the Marine Index (the freshwater species are touched on
there)>
Is possible to order a fish through the mail?
<Certainly>
Can I feed them gold fish? And better yet how about a book on fresh water
moray. This would really help.
<Not really goldfish, but other live or frozen/defrosted meaty foods. Take a
look at the WWM site cited, then fishbase.org then your search engines under
"Freshwater Morays">
Thanks,
Michael
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
Re: Freshwater Moray Eels
Thanks for getting back to me. I have called all over the place in Virginia
looking for a "fresh water moray eel' I have had 0 luck! Do you know of a place
that I could order one through the mail or call. <Take a look at the livestock
etailers listed on our site (www.WetWebMedia.com) Links Pages>
I have also had no luck looking for a book. <See the "Moray Eels" section on
the WWM site>
I figure that I will get a 75 gallon tank with heaters that will keep the
tempter a 70-80.{F}. I will have a 2 caves in it so that it can hide and the
sand that you recommended. I will buy a power filter. Do you think that I will
need a skimmer?
<Probably not a skimmer if you are going to try keeping the water entirely
fresh... do take a look through Fishbase.org under the term "freshwater moray".
Bob Fenner>
Thanks again,
Michael Davis
Gymnothorax polyuranodon
Hi Anthony! I
<Cheers my friend... and an update: THIS JUST IN: Bob Fenner was recently
spotted in a quiet inlet snorkeling with what appeared to be a cluster of helium
balloons tethered to his back. When asked what the deal was with the helium
balloons, he claimed that he had difficulties securing proper diving gear in
this remote location. However, the beer cans strewn about the boat deck and
piled up against the helium tank near the tape recorder tell a different story.
Look for a Christmas album from Bob this December>
just bought a 'freshwater eel'. Noted in past FAQs that you have recommended
addition of salt to the water so that they might survive in the long run.
<yes...depends on the species. Many are born in freshwater and venture out to
the sea. As such, they really cannot be considered freshwater. Brackish is often
better. Your species is actually a more freshwater tolerant animal. Still...
some salt would be nice. Do read more:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwmorayeels.htm>
But if I have Bichirs in the tank will the salt affect them? I read that they
are true freshwater species. What about fire eels that are a foot long?
Will the salt affect them as well? Do fire eels need salt??
<the fire ell is an "Asian" fish (Sumatra, Indochina, Thailand, etc) that
prefers soft, acidic water... nothing like your Gymnothorax polyuranodon.
Essentially... one of the two is going to be compromised with regard for pH,
alkalinity and salinity to a lesser extent. Still... they are hardy... it may
not be much of a problem. I must admit that I wouldn't mix them... but if you do
not intend to try to breed them you may be just fine>
I keep dwarf puffers in the tank as well. 15 of them actually. They are pretty
small at the moment. I heard someone say that if these puffers are swallowed,
they will actually inflate such that the aggressor will
have no choice but to spit the puffer out. My concern is if the puffer makes it
into the stomach and then inflates. Will it kill my eels?
<certainly, but is more likely that their toxic flesh will kill the eels
first...hehe>
My grouper (abt 12cm) ate one of my puffers and then looked like he wanted to
puke it out... But by then he had already swallowed it. He looked pretty
uncomfortable after eating the puffer... I am monitoring the situation and will
let you know if the grouper makes it through the night!
=P
<please do>
Thanks so much for your advice on medicating fire eels. You are much funnier
than Bob. Hahaha... (no offense meant to Bob of course) Well I look forward to
your insight once again. Thanks a bunch!!
<ahhh... thank you kindly, but you haven't been around Bob enough. He has an
enormous funny bone (insert your own joke here). Hehehe. Best regards, Anthony>
Re: Gymnothorax polyuranodon
Hi Anthony! Thanks again for your SUPER fast response!
<that's what you get when you post a question to someone that doesn't work a
real job <wink>>
Here are more questions...
I am now in doubt as to what species my eel really is.
It could be a tile, polyuranodon or rhodochilus. I'm pretty confused now. I want
to keep this eel for a long time so I have noticed your recommendation for some
salt to be added. However, I noted in your last msg that the polyuranodon is ok
in freshwater?
<lets be clear about this... it is more tolerant of freshwater and brackish
water than most morays... but it is not ideal by any stretch of the
imagination... please do read Bobs articles/archives on this species>
So does that mean its not necessary to add salt?
<not even close, my friend... I personally would keep this animal at 1.005-1.010
SG>
What about the other 2 species I mentioned above? Do either of them have good
long term prospects in freshwater?
<1.005 is safe and a recommended bare minimum for the true moray eels>
My eel is about a foot long and its roughly the thickness of an index finger.
Its not eating yet but I just got it yesterday so...
<I won't be surprised either if it begins to do better when more salt is added.
Do use a hydrometer too please>
Anyway it looks pretty pale in color (pinkish/translucent) and its mottled with
pretty light yellow spots. Sort of yellow... Its
design looks something like your pic of the polyuranodon except that it does not
have such striking color distinction. It just looks pale. Any idea which one it
is?
<couldn't say for certain without seeing it and even then...?>
Assuming I do add salt. My tank is about 15 US gallons.
Its a 2 ft tank measuring 60x30x35cm. Does that mean roughly 1 gram of salt per
gallon? Your recommendations in the FAQ is one teaspoon (5gms) per 5 US
gallons?
<that will get you in the ballpark, but a glass hydrometer is less than ten
dollars and is quite easy to use... highly recommended>
I also keep a caecilian and dwarf puffers in the tank. I think the caecilian is
able to tolerate 5 gm.s per 5 gallons... Any comments? If I
just put 5 gm.s for 15 gallons will it make any difference at all to my moray?
<all will tolerate the low end of the recommendation for certain>
Does salt make the water more acidic or basic?
<neither...unrelated>
I read your site's article on salt. It says,"5.5g gm.s is sufficient for 294
gallons of water." Then the next paragraph says," For simple osmoregulatory
stress protection, on an indefinite basis, one can use 1 to 3 mg/L of salt. This
would be equivalent to one teaspoon of salt added to 1,453 to 484 gallons of
water!" Is this contradictory or does the second Para just refer to 'SIMPLE
stress protection'?
<again...you'll want to use a hydrometer and aim for 1.005 to 1.010>
What's osmoregulatory stress anyways? =)
<respiratory distress...typically rapid breathing in eels that are too salty or
not salty enough>
This might sound like a stupid question but I'll ask anyway... If salt can
distress freshwater fishes at the concentration stated above, then what happens
when the salinity hits 1.010? How will this salinity adversely affect true FW
fishes?
<easier on the moray but harder on the spiny eels>
Will fire eels be able to withstand 1.005 - 1.010?
<the lower end for sure...but not comfortably at the higher end>
I assume Bichirs and dwarf puffers can but can fire eels take it? I also read
that spiny eels have internal parasites? Is this harmful to them? Should I feed
mine some medicine or do I just leave the internal parasites alone?
<all wild fish may have them and many captive are likely as well. Do not
medicate unless you need to>
Do plant fertilizers affect Bichirs or eels (morays
and spiny) adversely?
<unlikely in low doses>
I have a huge piece of driftwood in the tank. It turns my water a very slight
brown. Is this good for my eels?
<delightful for the fire eel...but not natural for the others>
Do dissolved plants affect water chemistry greatly? Do dissolved plants and my
wood turn the water more acidic or basic?
<significantly and more acidic.>
I decided to ask more direct questions 'cos I thought that it will aid you
seeing as how you have such a unique way of answering everyone's questions. Hope
this helps you. Thanks a bunch!!!
<thank you for saying so <smile>. Do look into a local aquarium society for
networking and shared info too... they really are great places for info beyond
the Internet. Kindly, Anthony>
Keeping A FW Fahaka Puffer with SW Snowflake Eels 1/5/07
Hello,
<Hi Hector, Pufferpunk here>
First off, great source of information! I am glad I found it and I have
already referred some people to it.
<Fantastic!>
I have a Fahaka puffer that I got when he was 2" long. He is now 7"
long. I see that he is freshwater by reading your forums. My water is kept just
below 1.002 SG. I have two snowflake eels in the same tank. My concern is for
both the eels and the Fahaka. Is that SG too high for the Fahaka and or the
eels?
<Below 1.002 will not affect the Fahaka but the eels need high-end BW or
even better, marine conditions.>
It seems he will eventually eat the eels from what I've read here. So
far he has eaten two algae eaters already but both were introduced to the tank
after he was a bit larger, unlike the eels. He has been in the tank for 5 months
the eels are two years old. They had encounters when the Fahaka was small and
the eels have chased him away. I have caught them laying skin to skin (freaked
me out!) but they seem to have a healthy respect and equal affinity towards each
other at this point.
<Just don't be surprised one day, if your eels are maimed/eaten. I'd
get them in a higher salinity, without the puffer--he is a FW fish. ~PP>
Please advise, Hector
Re: Keeping A FW Fahaka Puffer with SW Snowflake Eels. Acclimating from BW
to SW 1/6/07
Great! Thanks for the response.
I just set up a SW tank. You think the eels should be placed in that tank?
<Only if you have cycled it 1st. Try Bio-Spira for an instant cycle.>
What is a proper way to acclimate the eels from low brackish to marine
conditions?
<Personally, I would cycle the tank with FW Bio-Spira & slowly raise the SG
.002/week, until you have reached your desired salinity. Otherwise, if it is
already a cycled SW tank, use a drip system. Put the fish in a bucket below the
tank you will be moving it into, covered by water from the tank the eels were
living in, about 1" over its head or a little deeper, so they are
comfortable. Tie a knot in an air hose until it drips enough water into the
bucket to raise or lower the SG in the bucket .001/hour. ~PP>
Thanks a bunch!
Raising pH in Brackish Tank, "FW" Morays 7/11/06
Hi,
<Hi John, Pufferpunk here>
I am writing with a few questions for anyone who may have the time to answer
them for me. All help is greatly appreciated.
<I can certainly try!>
I have in my possession a "Freshwater" Moray Eel, about 14 inches in length.
He is currently in a 55 gallon tank (48"x12"x18") with about 1/2" of gravel on
bottom. I saw him for sale a while back and did some research on him before
making the decision to purchase. The specific gravity of salt in the water is
1.008, according to my recently purchased hydrometer.
<I prefer refractometers--much more accurate--hydrometers can be off as much
as .005. You might want to compare the reading on your hydrometer, with a
refractometer, to see if it's true.>
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate levels are all at zero. I believe the pH is a
little low for him, ranging at just over 7.5. I've had him for just over two
weeks now and am having problems. :(
My first question is should I raise the ph level?
<I would, BW fish prefer a pH of around 8.>
He is a lone inhabitant, other than food (a few guppies ranging from very
small to about an inch in length and a few ghost shrimp I put in yesterday). I'm
not sure of the exact pH level he would be happiest in so I figured it wouldn't
hurt to ask.
Second, would he be happier if I kept him on live or switched him to frozen?
I bought some frozen krill for him but he isn't taking to
that very well. If it's better for him to be on frozen, what is the best way
to switch him to frozen? One person I talked to said that I should not let him
eat one day, then try frozen the next and if he doesn't take to it then give him
some fresh and to just keep trying that making the gaps in-between feedings
longer, until he breaks and eats the frozen krill.
<You will have to "train" him to eat frozen foods (hopefully you are
defrosting before feeding). You can spear the food with a wooden stick (like
the ones they use for kabobs) or you can get a plastic one at your LFS. I'd
take away his live food for about 3 days before trying this. Then you will have
to entice him, by wiggling the food around by his face (preferably in the
evening, during "regular" hunting hours). You could also bounce the food off a
thread (use a needle to go through the food) but don't tie a knot in the end. I
would try a variety of foods, including silversides, people shrimp & any other
odds & ends you see for sale in your grocery/produce store.>
My other problem is with his breathing. He is breathing rapidly with the
same symptoms of another eel I read about in one of the FAQ’s on your site but I
don't believe that low salt is the problem. Like I said the salt level is at
1.008 SG. What else could possibly cause this breathing problem? He is not
eating as much now as he used to. Is it because I'm trying to switch him to
frozen or because he is sick? He is displaying no outward signs of any parasitic
infestation or bacterial infection. Is there the possibility of internal
infection?
<Heavy breathing can be a sign of ammonia/nitrite issues, affecting the 02
levels in the water and/or burning their gills. How long has that tank been set
up? Are you doing regular weekly water changes? You should be seeing some
detectable nitrates in a cycled BW tank. How was the tank cycled? How quickly
did you raise the SG? It should be only raised by .002/weekly water changes so
as not I'd test the water again.>
My last question is due to fact that he is a brackish water fish.
Could I put substrate at the bottom of his tank instead of the standard fish
gravel that he is in now?
<This actually goes back to your pH question & how to raise it & keep it
stable around 8. It is recommended to use crushed coral or aragonite as
substrate in a BW tank. Since you only have 1/2" of gravel in there, you could
just add another inch to that. If your gravel is dark though, you may not like
the look & want to change it out completely for the buffering substrate.>
He seems to be doing just fine with the gravel--he is burrowing down under
some rock I have in his tank during the day. Kind of like a natural rock
structure that he swims through and sleeps under.
<Yes, they hang out in burrows during the day & hunt at night.>
I have some knowledge about aquariums but I don't know everything
<Ha, me either!>
and hopefully you guys can help me learn a little more about this guy. I've
had him for just over three weeks now. Anything you guys can share is greatly
appreciated. Thanks for your time and have a great day.
John R. Ayer
<Thanks John I will (today's water change day) & enjoy this interesting
creature! ~PP>
Re: moray growth cycles 7/18/06
Thank you for your quick response. I have read that morays can live over 30
years.
<Yes, there are public aquarium records of this and longer lifespans>
Based on your information and my observations, I am almost certain my albino
will have no problem making it over a year and would not be surprised to have
him around for a long time.
When I first got the snowflake he went right into hiding and did not venture out
for a week. My albino would not go into this area while it was hiding
<Muraenids are by and large non-social species... Don't associate with
conspecifics or other members of their family>
and only my leopard bushfish and butterfly goby would go into the area with him.
After he finally ventured out my albino went back into the area but so far the
snowflake has been staying out and not even trying to hide except when the
lights are turned on abruptly. For the week during the snowflakes hiding period
the albino seemed like it did not bother him he seemed so easy going and seems
not to let stress get to him. I have had the albino now almost 6 months but only
about 8 days for the snowflake. If the snowflake can settle down like the albino
he may live a long time too. The main factor is now they are in a 10 gallon tank
<Way too small...>
with plans to get a 125 gallon in the near future but may get a 55 first then
transfer to the 125. I have other fish that I will eventually need a 55 for that
are freshwater only.
I appreciate your help.
<Welcome. Keep monitoring your water quality, and keep that lid tight! Bob
Fenner>
<Ongoing: brackish to marine> albino moray in a larger system... Still not
reading... and raising RMF's BP 7/24/06
I have written you before on my albino moray believed to be of the species
that I currently have in a 10 gallon tank. I would like to know if a 30
gallon tank would be large enough for him?
<... have you read where you've been repeatedly referred to?>
A friend said he would give me one since he was getting out of freshwater
and getting into saltwater system with a larger tank. I did not know if I
should put my eel in it or take my bichir and friends in it. So far my moray
has never tried to escape and I have had him for a while with no lid on my
tank. When he is at the top of the tank he is either hanging off the
thermometer and ammonia sensor or laying on top the heater trying to catch
guppies. His length is from the top of the gravel his head comes just under
the black trimming of the tank on top. I so far like the idea of his eating
live food and according to information I have read he will remain small
enough to continue eating ghost shrimp and guppies based on the assumption
his species is correct he will not get much larger than he is now.
<Will most likely be dead soon>
One last note about nitrite levels you said they should be 0 and I had said
they were very low. I was going by what the test by Tetra gave me a match at
less than 0.3 mg/l. Is this a good reliable test?
<Mmm, middling>
I have a rather unusual final question regarding filtration. Would using the
filter that came with a whole set up like a 55 along with a small
bio wheel that was for 20 gallons be of any help or would I be better off
getting a bio wheel for that size alone?
<Bigger is better>
With a moray involved I do not feel comfortable with a standard filter
alone. Thank you very much I want this albino to be as happy as he can be
and so far my experiences with this one has all been positive. He seems so
inquisitive and easy going.
<Please... read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmorayeels.htm
and the linked files above. RMF>
Info about Gymnothorax tile eel 2/10/06
Greetings,
<Salutations>
I have a Gymnothorax tile eel AKA (Freshwater Snowflake Eel) and I have
questions concerning his well being. Right now he lives in my 45gal Brackish
water tank and seems to be doing quite well. I have had him for nearly 8
months and he is currently on a diet of squid.
<Need to expand this diet>
However I did some research on him and several articles say that this
species does better in a marine type environment.
<Some do... with size/growth>
Is this true? Second most of my research says that this particular species
can survive in a brackish environment but not for long term. I currently
have a 65gal saltwater tank that I am currently establishing that at this
moment has no fish or animals of any sort. My question to you is this, would
my Gymnothorax tile eel do better in a marine type environment or can I
leave him in his current brackish water home?
<Would be better in all marine>
Second, if I were to transfer him to my marine aquarium can you recommend a
procedure to minimize the stress on the animal?
<Matching present spg, increasing some 0.001 to 0.002 density per week by
adding/changing out water of increasing saltiness>
I have done a lot of research on this animal but it is hard to separate fact
from fiction. I would hate to loose him due to my ignorance.
Many thanks in advanced
Mike Hoefnael
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
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