FAQs on Guppy Diseases 9 FAQs on Guppy Disease: Guppy Disease 1, Guppy Disease 2, Guppy Disease 3, Guppy Disease 4, Guppy Disease 5, Guppy Disease 6, Guppy Disease 7, Guppy Disease 8, Guppy Disease 10, FAQs on Guppy Disease by Category: Environmental, Nutritional (e.g. HLLE), Social, Infectious (Virus, Bacterial, Fungal), Parasitic (Ich, Velvet...), Genetic, Treatments, Related Articles: Guppies, Poeciliids: Guppies, Platies, Swordtails, Mollies by Neale Monks, Livebearing Fishes by Bob Fenner, Related FAQs: Guppies 1, Guppies 2, Guppy Identification, Guppy Behavior, Guppy Compatibility, Guppy Selection, Guppy Systems, Guppy Feeding, Guppy Reproduction, Livebearers, Platies, Swordtails, Mollies,

Guppy colony issues    4/17/20 Hi Neale! Hope you are well <All good, thanks.> So everything seems to of improved and no more deaths so far <Good-oh.> Only issue was my male guppies fin is damaged again and I'm not sure who or what is causing it <Could be one of the other fish, an excessively strong filter, and/or bacterial Finrot, though this latter should usually be apparent because most/all of the fins will be raggedy around the edges. If it's a filter or aggressive fish problem, what you tend to see is clear tears in the fin membrane, often only on the tail and/or dorsal fin if another fish is to blame.> There is 1 adult male guppy in with about 25 females and maybe a 2 young juvenile males. His fin was fine yesterday and overnight its gone bad again even worse than before. Is it possible overfeeding caused it or is my females bullying him? <Yes, females can be nippy, but it's rare.> Should I move him? <I would not.> Or Remove some females? Or something else? <I would double-check the tank is sufficiently big and filtered for all the fish you have. For a colony of twenty-odd Guppies, you'd want something like 90-130 litres (25-30 US gallons). Water quality should be tested, and there should be zero ammonia and nitrite. If you're only keeping Guppies, adding a little salt can be beneficial, especially if your water is soft. But certainly make sure the water is nice and hard (10+ degrees dH, pH 7.5-8.5). I'd medicate as per Finrot (but avoid unreliable cures like Melafix) and remove carbon, if used, while medicating.> Oh here's a picture of him before and after the damage (he's doing a poop in 2nd pic and it was night)Thanks! <Welcome. Neale.>

Re: Guppy colony issues       4/18/20 Thanks so much Neale, <Welcome.> I medicated them again with Prazi per the instructions. I notice his tail is whitish on the ends does that make fit rot or nipping more likely? <Finrot. But the two are often linked. When the tissue is damaged, any dead tissue goes white. If blood vessels become congested, they may turn pink or red, and this is often a good sign you're dealing with Finrot. Because repeated nipping makes fish vulnerable to bacterial infections, there's a link with Finrot (which is a purely opportunistic, and not a disease that you can stop from getting into a tank).> Its 70L I was supposed to sell or give away half of them but couldn't due to corona virus. <Understood. Do keep on top of water changes, do ensure aeration is good, and do avoid overfeeding.> I could remove all or most of the rams snails to help as there is a lot. I add rift lake cichlid salt to the tank <Snails won't make much difference so wouldn't be too bothered about them. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago      3/27/20
Hi again Neale,
Hope you are well :)
<So far as I know, but these days, that doesn't always count for much!>
The dwarf chain loach are going good except after cleaning gravel in my main tank and removing plants 2 of the females were behaving weirdly. Maybe they have a disease or could it be from male harassment?
<Kinda sort of. Female Guppies surely do get harassed by males in small tanks, and 70 litres would be small for our purposes. Once harassed, the resulting stress can make them more prone to the usual bacterial diseases, much as aggression might.>
I moved one out and treated it with general cure and fungus cure in the 70L tank. I also treated main tank with Praziquantel and then today I spotted the other female in the main tank swimming weakly, more like drifting around really but breathing heavy.
<These symptoms are pretty generic and could be all sorts of things.
Optimising living conditions, and medicating as per a bacterial infection is probably your best bet, ideally alongside something like Metronidazole to deal with protozoans that may or may not be Hexamita, but do cause 'wasting' type problems in Guppies.>
I moved her to into the 70L and medicated both tanks with general cure.
This is a video of the fish, any idea what's causing it or what disease it could be? I'm going to test the nitrate in main tank. The ammonia and nitrite was fine.
https://youtu.be/rw0RwnB4fxY
<Does look more like acute environmental stress if this came out of nowhere after cleaning the tank. Have seen similar with cichlids when adding too-cold water by accident. Recover with time if conditions appropriate, but if you've introduced a toxin, a series of water changes may be needed.
Likewise if you've messed up water chemistry, especially by either lowering pH or hardness in the case of Guppies, a similar thing may happen. Use a water chemistry test kit, and act accordingly.>
Thanks again
<Welcome. Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago     3/28/20
Thanks so much for your reply Neale,
<Welcome.>
Its great you are well :) I heard P95 masks protect against the virus so if you could get some that's a start
<Indeed.>
The weird thing is the females I moved have improved but more fish in the main 130L tank seem to be catching it. Is it possible its hydrogen sulfide poisoning?
<H2S would cause immediate respiratory distress, such as gasping at the surface. Appreciable amounts of H2S are very unlikely in aquarium situations. You'd not only need a very deep substrate (at least 8-10 cm) but the water would have to be decidedly oxygen-poor, because otherwise the H2S reacts almost instantly with the oxygen in the water. Even those things wouldn't result in much H2S without bucket-loads of organic material being somehow inside the substrate and decomposing away from oxygen (so, for example, no plant roots to transport oxygen, and no burrowing snails to turn over the substrate and keep it clean). Nobody worries about H2S in ponds or marine tanks, and in marine tanks anoxic conditions are actively encouraged to help break down nitrate. I think the whole H2S thing is a bit
of a myth, really, and while theoretically possible, probably doesn't happen in typical freshwater fish tanks with plants and snails.>
Because when I was gravel vacuuming I noticed sooo much bubbles coming out of the gravel.
<H2S has a very distinctive bad egg smell. Furthermore, where it is being produced, the sulphides react with chemicals readily, the most famous reaction being the one that produces iron sulphide. If you've ever dug into sand at the beach, you'll have noticed when go deep enough, a layer of black sand and a bad smell. This is iron sulphide (the black sand) and hydrogen sulphide (the bad egg smell). If you're not detecting either of these in your aquarium, then H2S is not likely being produced in significant quantities. I think this also gives an indication of the sort of environment H2S production needs for quantities to become dangerous: very deep sediment, very fine particles like sand blocking the diffusion of oxygen, no plant roots, no snails, and no preventative maintenance of any kind.>
I moved almost all the females today even though only 1-2 extra were afflicted, and moved them all to the 70L. A male is afflicted but I couldn't catch him, he was hiding in an impossible spot.
<In theory, if the fish were exposed to H2S but survived, moving them to better conditions, or ideally, simply aerating the tank vigorously to drive off the H2S, should allow the fish to recover. Animals produce H2S in small amounts within their bodies, and have ways to deal with it. My understanding is that even in humans exposed to enough H2S to become unwell, treatment is essentially supportive, waiting for nature to takes its course. Put another way, if your fish are in better conditions now, H2S
poisoning would be a transient thing, and you should seem recover, slow or rapid as the case may be.>
I ordered more medication for the tank (metronidazole) as I'm out. It should arrive this week, its 25 grams this time which is loads more than I had before. The meds I added to main tank didn't seem to help. I also ordered Flubendazole incase its a parasite though I'm not sure how to dose it.
<Best to follow the supplied instructions on the packaging. Vets will prescribe dosages based on the concentration of the drug and the body mass of the fish. Everything else is hit-and-miss (especially the usual aquarium approach of X teaspoons per Y litres/gallons). Manufacturers generally provide a usage that is basically reliable for the average fish in the average fish tank, but you may find repeating the course of medication worthwhile, especially with de-wormers.>
I added carbon pad and PolyFilter to the filter incase it is hydrogen sulfide poisoning.
<Do remember BOTH of these will remove medications, so DO NOT use alongside medicine. Indeed, removal of H2S is best done by increasing aeration, since H2S reacts quickly with oxygen. If you truly suspect this is a problem, I'd remove the fish to a bucket, remove all the substrate (and any plants, if
present) and then put the fish back. Clean the substrate, and return to the tank. If you don't have plants, you only need enough sand or gravel to cover the glass, a 1-2 cm of this will not become anoxic. Still, if you have plants with roots, then H2S is very unlikely to occur because plant roots transport oxygen (the root hair cells are highly dependent on aerobic respiration) and some oxygen inevitably diffuses out into the sediment.>
Their water was already low ph pretty much.
<Do bear in mind acidosis will quickly stress Guppies; you do want hard water for them. As a reminder, 10-25 degrees dH, pH 7.5-8.0 is about right. If your water chemistry is unstable or soft, addition of marine aquarium salt works extremely well with Guppies. To say they thrive in brackish water is an understatement, but even a little salt, maybe 3-5 gram/litre, makes a tremendous difference. Breeding on fish farms often uses salt, simply because it's a quick and cheap way to keep Guppies healthy. Hardy
plants won't mind this level of salt, at least not up to 3 gram/litre.
Guppies also appreciate warmth, especially the fancier varieties. I'd be keeping them around 28 C, but bumping up the aeration as well.>
It may of gotten lower from the release in gases though I added some marble to the filter. The 70L is way harder water like 7.6 and all the females reacted well to being moved from the acidic tank to 7.6.
<I would imagine. Wild Guppies may well handle acidic conditions, being found across a range of environments from acidic swamps through to coastal marine lagoons, but fancy Guppies aren't as genetically diverse and tend to be much more finicky.>
So I think maybe it in fact is a toxin i.e. hydrogen sulfide.
<Toxins of other sorts, like paint fumes and aerosol cleaning sprays should always be considered, but again, water changes should eliminate these and you should see the fish recover thereafter.>
Also I tested the nitrate and it was pretty low, only in-between 0 and 5ppm.
Which is surprising as its stocked pretty high and has excess of snails and minimal plants. I'm thinking the gravel was doing anaerobic filtration.
<See above; only if very deep, very neglected, and very plant/snail free.>
This is the tank atm (foggy due to adding SeaChem pristine and disturbing gravel again).
https://youtu.be/duzAhUz8h4w
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago     3/28/20
Hi thanks so much for your reply Neale,
<Welcome.>
I think the females haven't actually recovered but they are no worse. Sadly an Endler male I liked must of died overnight without a trace. I noticed a yellow Endler has been missing ever since I moved it from Quarantine to the big tank.
I'm starting to think it is worms and likely not hydrogen sulfide/a toxin.
As a couple more guppies are being affected. Even after water changes.
<Camallanus worms are very common among farmed livebearers, but the symptoms are usually obvious, with red, thread-like filaments appearing from the vent. But if you have a bunch of fish, all suddenly getting sick, without any obvious symptoms pointing in a clear direction, it's a better bet to go with the environment. As we've discussed, Guppies are adaptable but do have firm preferences: medium to very hard water; pH around 7.5 to 8; gentle water currents; and a fair bit of warmth. Check you are providing these first, before a scattergun approach to medicating is undertaken.>
Though I don't know why suddenly it would strike them and spread.
<Indeed; see above. Check environment, top to bottom, first.>
Any idea what kind of parasite it could be?
<Not from the symptoms presented, no.>
I don't really feel like it's bacterial. I mean it is a possibility but I can't think of what kind of bacteria could cause these symptoms and also spread like this.
<Bacterial infections tend to be opportunistic. Some exceptions, but mostly things like Finrot and Mycobacteria make trouble when the fish is damaged, stressed, or otherwise unable to employ its normal immune system.>
Should I use Levamisole or Flubendazole (wait till it arrives later this week). I heard Flubendazole is gentler on fish but I don't know if I should wait till it arrives next week sometime.
<Both can work, but don't use them unless you're obviously dealing with worms -- i.e., visible from the vent, or at the very least there's abdominal swelling developed over several weeks or months together with normal behaviour and appetite but an overall loss of conditions. Worms do not suddenly take over a fish and kill it within days. Cheers, Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago      3/29/20
Thanks so much for your reply Neale,
<Welcome.>
Its great you are well :) I heard P95 masks protect against the virus so if you could get some that's a start
<Indeed.>
The weird thing is the females I moved have improved but more fish in the main 130L tank seem to be catching it. Is it possible its hydrogen sulfide poisoning?
<H2S would cause immediate respiratory distress, such as gasping at the surface. Appreciable amounts of H2S are very unlikely in aquarium situations. You'd not only need a very deep substrate (at least 8-10 cm) but the water would have to be decidedly oxygen-poor, because otherwise the H2S reacts almost instantly with the oxygen in the water. Even those things wouldn't result in much H2S without bucket-loads of organic material being somehow inside the substrate and decomposing away from oxygen (so, for example, no plant roots to transport oxygen, and no burrowing snails to turn over the substrate and keep it clean). Nobody worries about H2S in ponds or marine tanks, and in marine tanks anoxic conditions are actively encouraged to help break down nitrate. I think the whole H2S thing is a bit of a myth, really, and while theoretically possible, probably doesn't happen in typical freshwater fish tanks with plants and snails.>
Because when I was gravel vacuuming I noticed sooo much bubbles coming out of the gravel.
<H2S has a very distinctive bad egg smell. Furthermore, where it is being produced, the sulphides react with chemicals readily, the most famous reaction being the one that produces iron sulphide. If you've ever dug into sand at the beach, you'll have noticed when go deep enough, a layer of black sand and a bad smell. This is iron sulphide (the black sand) and hydrogen sulphide (the bad egg smell). If you're not detecting either of these in your aquarium, then H2S is not likely being produced in significant quantities. I think this also gives an indication of the sort of environment H2S production needs for quantities to become dangerous: very deep sediment, very fine particles like sand blocking the diffusion of oxygen, no plant roots, no snails, and no preventative maintenance of any kind.>
I moved almost all the females today even though only 1-2 extra were afflicted, and moved them all to the 70L. A male is afflicted but I couldn't catch him, he was hiding in an impossible spot.
<In theory, if the fish were exposed to H2S but survived, moving them to better conditions, or ideally, simply aerating the tank vigorously to drive off the H2S, should allow the fish to recover. Animals produce H2S in small amounts within their bodies, and have ways to deal with it. My understanding is that even in humans exposed to enough H2S to become unwell, treatment is essentially supportive, waiting for nature to takes its course. Put another way, if your fish are in better conditions now, H2S
poisoning would be a transient thing, and you should seem recover, slow or rapid as the case may be.>
I ordered more medication for the tank (metronidazole) as I'm out. It should arrive this week, its 25 grams this time which is loads more than I had before. The meds I added to main tank didn't seem to help. I also ordered Flubendazole incase its a parasite though I'm not sure how to dose it.
<Best to follow the supplied instructions on the packaging. Vets will prescribe dosages based on the concentration of the drug and the body mass of the fish. Everything else is hit-and-miss (especially the usual aquarium approach of X teaspoons per Y litres/gallons). Manufacturers generally provide a usage that is basically reliable for the average fish in the average fish tank, but you may find repeating the course of medication worthwhile, especially with de-wormers.>
I added carbon pad and PolyFilter to the filter incase it is hydrogen sulfide poisoning.
<Do remember BOTH of these will remove medications, so DO NOT use alongside medicine. Indeed, removal of H2S is best done by increasing aeration, since H2S reacts quickly with oxygen. If you truly suspect this is a problem, I'd remove the fish to a bucket, remove all the substrate (and any plants, if
present) and then put the fish back. Clean the substrate, and return to the tank. If you don't have plants, you only need enough sand or gravel to cover the glass, a 1-2 cm of this will not become anoxic. Still, if you have plants with roots, then H2S is very unlikely to occur because plant roots transport oxygen (the root hair cells are highly dependent on aerobic respiration) and some oxygen inevitably diffuses out into the sediment.>
Their water was already low ph pretty much.
<Do bear in mind acidosis will quickly stress Guppies; you do want hard water for them. As a reminder, 10-25 degrees dH, pH 7.5-8.0 is about right.
If your water chemistry is unstable or soft, addition of marine aquarium salt works extremely well with Guppies. To say they thrive in brackish water is an understatement, but even a little salt, maybe 3-5 gram/litre, makes a tremendous difference. Breeding on fish farms often uses salt, simply because it's a quick and cheap way to keep Guppies healthy. Hardy plants won't mind this level of salt, at least not up to 3 gram/litre.
Guppies also appreciate warmth, especially the fancier varieties. I'd be keeping them around 28 C, but bumping up the aeration as well.>
It may of gotten lower from the release in gases though I added some marble to the filter. The 70L is way harder water like 7.6 and all the females reacted well to being moved from the acidic tank to 7.6.
<I would imagine. Wild Guppies may well handle acidic conditions, being found across a range of environments from acidic swamps through to coastal marine lagoons, but fancy Guppies aren't as genetically diverse and tend to be much more finicky.>
So I think maybe it in fact is a toxin i.e. hydrogen sulfide.
<Toxins of other sorts, like paint fumes and aerosol cleaning sprays should always be considered, but again, water changes should eliminate these and you should see the fish recover thereafter.>
Also I tested the nitrate and it was pretty low, only in-between 0 and 5ppm.
Which is surprising as its stocked pretty high and has excess of snails and minimal plants. I'm thinking the gravel was doing anaerobic filtration.
<See above; only if very deep, very neglected, and very plant/snail free.>
This is the tank atm (foggy due to adding SeaChem pristine and disturbing gravel again).
https://youtu.be/duzAhUz8h4w
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago      3/29/20
Hi thanks so much for your reply Neale,
<Welcome.>
I think the females haven't actually recovered but they are no worse. Sadly an Endler male I liked must of died overnight without a trace. I noticed a yellow Endler has been missing ever since I moved it from Quarantine to the big tank.
I'm starting to think it is worms and likely not hydrogen sulfide/a toxin.
As a couple more guppies are being affected. Even after water changes.
<Camallanus worms are very common among farmed livebearers, but the symptoms are usually obvious, with red, thread-like filaments appearing from the vent. But if you have a bunch of fish, all suddenly getting sick, without any obvious symptoms pointing in a clear direction, it's a better bet to go with the environment. As we've discussed, Guppies are adaptable but do have firm preferences: medium to very hard water; pH around 7.5 to 8; gentle water currents; and a fair bit of warmth. Check you are providing these first, before a scattergun approach to medicating is undertaken.>
Though I don't know why suddenly it would strike them and spread.
<Indeed; see above. Check environment, top to bottom, first.>
Any idea what kind of parasite it could be?
<Not from the symptoms presented, no.>
I don't really feel like it's bacterial. I mean it is a possibility but I can't think of what kind of bacteria could cause these symptoms and also spread like this.
<Bacterial infections tend to be opportunistic. Some exceptions, but mostly things like Finrot and Mycobacteria make trouble when the fish is damaged, stressed, or otherwise unable to employ its normal immune system.>
Should I use Levamisole or Flubendazole (wait till it arrives later this week). I heard Flubendazole is gentler on fish but I don't know if I should wait till it arrives next week sometime.
<Both can work, but don't use them unless you're obviously dealing with worms -- i.e., visible from the vent, or at the very least there's abdominal swelling developed over several weeks or months together with normal behaviour and appetite but an overall loss of conditions. Worms do not suddenly take over a fish and kill it within days. Cheers, Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago      3/29/20
Thanks so much Neale
<Most welcome.>
I added more marble to raise the ph slowly.
<Wouldn't be my recommendation. Do read WWM re: water chemistry; the old Rift Valley salt mix, used at about one-half dose, is ideal for Guppies and extremely cheap to make.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
Gradually change the water chemistry in the tank by doing 20-25% water changes per day, with incoming water being treated using the Rift Valley salt mix appropriate to that volume of water, not the whole tank.>
Will add more in a few days. What temperature would you recommend for guppies?
<25-28 C is about right for fancy Guppies.>
Also all the tanks have rift lake cichlid salt in them too.
<Well, shouldn't need the marble then! Are you using enough? If you are using Rift Valley salt, the pH should be around 7.5. Ordinary salt, as in sodium chloride, WILL NOT change the pH, and is of no value. Carbonate salts add the KH, and Epsom salt (or equivalent) the GH; do read the above linked article.>
What would you suggest I do? More water changes? Every couple days? Or little water change after a week? Any thing else?
<Do please read first; after, if needs be, write. Cheers, Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago      3/29/20
Thanks so much Neale,
<Welcome.>
Last time I checked the ph it was 6.4 which was actually an improvement.
<Yes, but still far too low for Guppies; this alone could explain their distress and death. No need to invoke pathogens.>
But I added slightly more marble, I think there's about 1/3 of a cup in there now maybe slightly more.
<The thing with marble is that while it does dissolve slowly, raising the KH and pH, it's slow and unpredictable. Adding Epsom salt (for GH) and sodium bicarbonate (for KH) are instant and accurate. Just stir into a bucket of water, test, and off you go!>
I will check the ph tomorrow and see how my fish are doing :)
The temperature is 26-27
All the females are in the 70L with a higher ph I think its like 7.6.
Ok I will add a bit more rift lake cichlid salt too
Thanks!
<Cheers, Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago      3/29/20
Hi again Neale,
<Hello Sarah,>
Just a quick update, I was checking my guppies and saw one that is affected has stringing clear/white poo.
Does that mean parasites or bacteria?
<All it means is that the intestine is shedding extra mucous. The mucous binds the faecal particles together into long strings, and the greater the proportion of mucous, the paler the faeces. Extra mucous in the digestive tract can happen for a variety of reasons, from inadequate fibre through to certain types of gut parasite. You can't rule worms in or out without examining the faeces under a microscope, where worm segments and/or eggs will be apparent. Hexamita is another parasite associated with stringy
faeces, but again, you can't confirm without microscopic inspection. A bacterial infection, though possible I suppose, is unlikely to cause this particular set of symptoms; to the best of my knowledge, anyway.>
Thanks
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago       4/1/20
Hi again Neale,
Just a quick update.
One of the male guppies that has the disease suddenly has really bad fin rot. Could this mean its a bacterial disease? Maybe part of the disease? Do any parasites cause this?
I have a video of it
https://youtu.be/EFaak7K3DuA
<Nice clear wounds to the tail, it looks like. I'd be thinking physical damage, certainly if (and you can tell better than me) the torn fins have clean cuts, like they've been snipped with scissors, rather than mouldy-looking patches of dead white or pink tissue. Fancy Guppies are routinely harassed by Bettas, so I'd not trust the Betta for a start!
Medicating as per Finrot only necessary of the damaged fins fail to heal or there are signs of dead white or pink tissue. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago      4/2/20
Thanks for your reply Neale
This is the only guppy nipped and I'm pretty sure the other guppies were doing it because he's sick and they want him gone Id say.
<Yep. Sounds plausible; but do read online -- Bettas and Guppies are not reliable. Depends a lot on the personality of the Betta, some more nippy than others. Ironic, given they're an easy target for fin-nippers, but who said life was fair?>
I put him in a Net breeder in same tank so he wont be bitten<If there's space, adding more Guppies is actually more likely to help -- by diluting aggression within the group. If all males, then more males; if mixed, then more females.>
and dosed a half dose of fungus cure. Hope it helps
<As do I. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago       4/3/20
Hi again Neale thanks so much for your reply
<Welcome.>
There's only a few adult males in the breeder tank and then about 25 females.
<Sounds a good male/female ratio for this species.>
I think the guppy is going a bit better today. I see he's done some poop which is good. He also seems less exhausted. I do think the guppies were nipping him.
<Does happen.>
Ill keep an eye on the Betta though. If any others fins start looking the same it will be obvious its the Betta i think.
A guppy already gave birth how exciting. Unsure if the Betta will eat all the fry or not.
<Yes; as will adult Guppies. Neither species recognise the babies as anything other than food.>
These were from mixed breeding so not too important.
<Perhaps, but crossbred Guppies are hardy and useful pets for casual aquarists.>
The males I moved over are the most superior. I really needed to give away some fish or sell I didn't want to have so many fish in the breeding tank.
But hard with Covid
<Understood. Cheers, Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago       4/3/20
Hi again Neale,
So I checked on fish today and there doesn't seem to be any improvement or deterioration.
<Well, that's encouraging, I guess, albeit not all that promising.>
The male has long white poo and 2 females in the 70L. The affected ones tend to have medium equilibrium issues.
I'm thinking it might be a flatworm or tape worm since Iv medicated pretty hard core with Levamisole and metronidazole. Yet only did partial medicating and low dose with Praziquantel as I ran out.
So I ordered more 100 tabs that should arrive next week. I added general cure but the amount of Praziquantel in it probably isn't enough.
<Praziquantel is a bit hit and miss. Definitely worth doing 2-3 courses.
But if worms aren't to blame, won't do much. At some point, Metronidazole is only worth considering if Hexamita is suspected. API General Cure includes this medication, and Praziquantel, so is worthwhile. Do understand
though that if the aquarium isn't optimised otherwise, e.g., the pH and hardness are wrong, the fish won't recover. Also, carbon removes the medication from the water, so be sure to remove carbon from the filter. If all you have is Guppies in there, or you can move them to their own tank, I'd be minded to just use marine or even plain vanilla aquarium salt for a while, at 5-10 gram/litre (above 5 will kill most plants, so dose appropriately). In other words, good solid brackish conditions has a profoundly tonic effect on most Poecilia spp. livebearers and may break the
life cycle of those parasites unable to handle salt. Lower doses, 2-3 gram/litre, can be very helpful too, and definitely worth a shot. Cheers, Neale.>
re: sudden guppy illness after disturbing gravel a week ago       4/3/20
Thanks so much for your reply Neale,
<Welcome.>
With the 70L it is a harder water tank. I believe the ph is around 7.5 but Ill check tomorrow. There is also rift lake cichlid salt in it. There's no carbon in any tank atm.
<All sounds fine.>
I'm thinking of removing the ones affected (~3) into a different QT tank to try and further hopefully remove the disease.
<Possibly, but I'd assume all fish are infected if one or two of them have worms. Some parasites, notably Hexamita among cichlids, are likely ubiquitous, but only become a problem when the fish is stressed. Likewise opportunistic bacteria such as Aeromonas and Pseudomonas. Camallanus worms seem to be endemic among farmed livebearers, and unusually for wormy parasites, can infect other fish directly, rather than through another animal host such as a snail or crustacean. My point is that while some diseases can be treated in isolation tanks, such as Finrot, where keeping the injured fish safely away from other tankmates is a good idea, in other cases you have to assume all the fish have it, whether they're exhibiting symptoms or not.>
As if it is worms, they may spread through eggs in the white faeces coming out of the fish.
<Correct.>
Plus I could medicate with much higher levels of rift lake cichlid salt to have a anti-parasitic affect.
<No. This won't work. Rift Valley salt mix has no effect at all on parasites. Sodium chloride can, if used at high enough concentrations, e.g., 2 g/l for Whitespot, but Rift Valley salt mix is mostly magnesium sulphate, which has no such effect at normal concentrations.>
I feel like there was subclinical levels of parasites in a fish or in the gravel.
<Yes and no. Many fish parasites will have a free-living stage, yes, but this often only lives for a very short period of time. The classic example is Whitespot, where the parasite is free-living for about 24 hours at 25 C.
If it can't find a host after that, it dies. Some Camallanus species, by contrast, have free-living larval stages that need to have infected a copepod within about two weeks, and any later than that will die. So while some parasites can 'wait around' for a short while, the ones we're dealing with in aquarium conditions generally can't, which is why leaving a tank fallow for a few weeks is quite a good way to 'reset' it back to its pre-disease-ridden stage. What is infinitely more likely is that many/all of our tropical fish have low parasite loads when we buy them, and if we
don't, for example, de-worm them, there's always a risk those parasites can cause problems. Often, they don't. Fish have excellent immune systems -- if you think about a tropical fish, it's basically swimming around in a warm,
wet Petri dish filled with bacteria! Compared with land animals, where dry air is extremely good at killing off parasites and pathogens, fish have to deal with being exposed to bacteria all the time. But if we stress our
fish, or fail to provide the right balance of nutrients, or whatever else, then their immune system weakens. It's this, more than anything, we need to focus on. When we see a fish get sick, we shouldn't only ask "what is the
disease" but also "why did it get sick at all". Make sense?>
Then due to disturbing it and stressing the fish with the larger than normal water change and removal of plants, their immunity was lowered and some succumbed to clinical parasite/disease infestation.
<Indeed, some combination of these, and/or other factors, and to some degree bad luck and/or bad genes, farmed Fancy Guppies being especially prone because of their inbred nature and consequently smaller gene pool
than their wild or mixed breed "feeder fish" cousins.>
I think no more are catching it due to me feeding literal mashed up garlic to them as well as their garlic and vitamin soaked food.
<Certainly vitamins help, and garlic stimulates the appetite of many fish, which means they're getting more calories.>
I'm planning on removing that gravel and adding a 2cm thick layer of sand as its cleaner and it will help the ph raise.
Thanks so much!
<Sand is interesting. If you're keeping just Guppies, or some other hard water fish with them, adding some coral sand to a gravel or silica sand substrate can boost the carbonate hardness and buffer against pH drops.
Very helpful! Sand also prevents dirt sinking down because sand has such fine grains. An old turkey baster will be really good for spot cleaning such a tank, as you'll see the dirt sitting there on the sand! Cheers, Neale.>

Advice on how to treat hemorrhagic septicemia in female guppy       2/19/20 Hello crew, <Hello Conrad,> I wish I was writing under better circumstances, but I would like some advice on how to treat septicemia in a female guppy I purchased last week. <I am not optimistic.> The guppy was shipped overnight to me one week ago as part of an order of three female guppies from a popular online vendor. Upon opening the package, one was already dead. I removed the dead fish and put the remaining guppies in a 500ml container (this was sufficient to hold all of the water that the fish came with), adding a drop of methylene blue and prime to hopefully alleviate any ammonia toxicity. I then drip acclimated the guppies to my tank water (the water they came in was much harder than my tank, 450 TDS vs 200 TDS), dripping in water at a rate of ~60 ml/min for 20 minutes, after which I netted the guppies and deposited them in my tank. <Understood. Unfortunately, the quality of farmed Guppies is generally not that high. Some breeders better than others. But many, many retailers have problems with this species nowadays.> After adding the guppies to my tank, it was clear that one of them had swim bladder issues and could not swim properly. Unfortunately, this guppy expired overnight. The other female guppy seemed to swim normally for the first four days but soon became lethargic, hiding in the corner and refusing to eat; I fed her Hikari micropellets and frozen bloodworms. The next day, I noticed red streaking along the flanks of the guppy, which signaled to me that the fish had septicemia. <Agreed.> I then moved her to a large breeder box that I hung in my tank. I have kept her in this box for a couple days, however the red streaking is now getting worse. <I can see this.> I would like to ask: 1. Is this hemorrhagic septicemia? <Certainly a bacterial infection of some sort.> 2. If it is, what is the best treatment? <Really, an antibiotic is the only possible treatment if this is a bacterial infection, but alas, success rate not high. Since the effectiveness of a given antibiotic depends upon identifying the pathogenic bacteria, without sampling the bacteria and identifying them (something aquarists can't do) we end up going with a scattergun approach. Unreliable, but the only option. On top of that, there are viruses that can cause septicaemia, and these are untreatable. Tetracycline-type antibiotics (such as Minocycline) are perhaps the safest, since they're less likely to affect the filter than, say, Erythromycin.> A cursory search of the website tells me that the root cause of this disease is water quality issues and people were recommended to do frequent water changes. <Indeed, but this is more prevention than cure.> However I don't believe my tank has any water quality issues. My parameters are roughly: Size: 10 gallon standard pH : 7.2-7.4 GH: 160 - 180 ppm KH: 40 - 60 ppm Ammonia + Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate : 0 - 15 ppm depending on how recently I have changed the water (usually once a week) TDS: 200 ppm Temperature: 68 - 76 F depending on the season (the tank is unheated but I keep the thermostat on 24/7). It has been 73-74 F this whole week. <I wouldn't be keeping fancy Guppies at such low temperatures: they are more sensitive than wild (or even cross-bred) Guppies and personally, I'd recommend setting a heater to 24 C, minimum.> The tank water is remineralized RO water. I use a combination of Epsom salt, gypsum and potassium bicarbonate to remineralize. By my calculations, the ionic concentrations I have are: K+: 42ppm Ca2+: 20ppm Mg2+: 8ppm SO42- : 81ppm HCO3- : 65ppm <Sounds fine.> The tank is heavily planted and nitrate goes down after water changes (I add a small amount of potassium nitrate when I do water changes). It has been running for eight years and contains a colony of scarlet badis (I think there are seven, but have seen two new juveniles come out of the moss in the past month), a colony of cherry shrimp (too many to count, but at least fifteen), and a single Nerite snail. I should note that I purchased two male guppies to go with the females, and those seem to have no issues whatsoever (they came in a separate bag). The main reason to separate the female was to prevent the males from harassing her (although it did not seem excessive when I was observing). I have attached 2 pictures of the poor guppy in question for diagnostic purposes. The first was taken in the tank shortly before moving the guppy to the breeder box and the second was taken from the breeder box earlier today. Thank you for your time! Best, Conrad <Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Advice on how to treat hemorrhagic septicemia in female guppy      2/20/20 Hi Neale, Thanks for the quick response! <Welcome.> I wasn't aware guppies needed heaters - I've seen them kept outdoors where I am (southern USA) and the website that I purchased from listed a temperature range of 18-28C. I guess that must be the difference between common and fancy guppies.... <Correct. Wild Guppies will handle anything from, as you say, a barely tropical 18 C to well over 28 C, likely 30 C without much bother. Similarly, they can live and breed in full-strength seawater, while others are found in acidic ditches in South America. But over the years we've bred fancy Guppies in ways that have eliminated those adaptability genes. It's much like you wouldn't expect a typical pedigree dog to last for long on the Tundra, yet wolves demonstrably thrive in those habitats. In any batch of Guppies you may well get some that are hardier and more adaptable than others, and crossbred (sometimes called 'feeder') Guppies seem to have much of the toughness of wild Guppies. But pedigree Guppies are sensitive fish, and need to be looked after a bit more carefully if you want maximum chances of survival.> I don't currently have a heater, but I did turn the thermostat in the room up to 24C. Hopefully this will help boost the immune system. <For sure.> The streaking has gotten worse overnight; there are now visible red streaks and red spots on the top of the body as well. <Yep. As I said before, I'm not optimistic.> Regarding antibiotics, I have on hand Kanamycin, Maracyn, and Maracyn 2. <Kanamycin is a good choice for septicaemia and should not harm the filter. Maracyn is Erythromycin, which isn't a great choice. Although is works really well in alkaline conditions, it can harm filter bacteria. Maracyn 2 is minocycline, which is indeed one of the tetracycline-types, and does work well against septicaemia, but doesn't do well in high hardness, alkaline conditions, and needs neutral to acidic conditions to work best. Great for Neons, but not for Guppies! So of the three, Kanamycin is probably your "go-to" drug of choice here.> Are any of these a "tetracycline-type" antibiotic? I'm not sure if my local LFS stocks minocycline. Given the effect on the biofilter, I will probably move the guppy to a separate 2.5 gallon bucket to treat with antibiotics. <In which case, a zeolite-filled box filter will provide good ammonia removal without any risk of problems when using antibiotics. Do remember to always remove carbon from any aquarium where medications are being used.> Again, thank you for the quick response. I will update you if I do manage to save this guppy. Sincerely, Conrad <Good luck! Neale.>

Guppy Health Issues, Please Help. 11/27/11
I have recently restarted a fish tank, It's a ten gallon half moon tank.
<Somewhat small for a first aquarium, and these tanks tend to have a poor surface area to volume ratio, which means when compared to a typical low rectangular aquarium of similar volume, they contain fewer fish adequately well.>
I have the base moderately planted, and it has an aeration bubbler in the back, as well as a heater set to keep it around 76 f, and a Tetra whisper 10i, which I have been frequently changing the filter in.
<What do you mean by "changing the filter"? At most, you should be rinsing off the biological media every month or two, and if you're using carbon, you need to replace that every 2-3 weeks. In all honesty, carbon is massively misunderstood in the hobby, and if you have the option, remove the carbon and replace in its compartment with regular biological media, like a sponge or ceramic noodles.>
I have done a 2.5 gallon water change for the tank about every two weeks.
The fish I have been keeping in there have been mostly guppies (currently have 2 females and 3 males (just had two females pass on me)), but at first I did start out with 5 female betas.
<Bettas, pronounced "Better", not "Beater". A generally poor choice for community tanks, despite their wide availability.>
Other tank mates are 2 oticintlis (algae eaters),
<Otocinclus need to be kept in groups, need coolish water (22-25 C/72-77 F) and lots of water turnover. Hard to imagine them living for long in an aquarium designed for poor swimmers like Bettas and Guppies.>
2 peppered Corys and a bamboo shrimp.
<This latter is difficult to keep and will be quickly killed by copper and formalin, making it difficult to treat the tank for Whitespot and the like.>
The problem that I am having is that the female guppies seem to be either getting nibbled on, or catching a disease.
<Yes. Bettas can, do bite fancy Guppies, and the male Guppies harass the females. Guppies also need hard, alkaline water conditions, and are perhaps ideally kept in slightly brackish conditions (it seems that's how they're often farmed to avoid health problems).>
The typical fungal symptoms don't seem to be present, just a white patch on the body, which have expanded on some to be white stripes right behind the eyes, where the scales look like they're missing, almost like a wound.
<Likely Columnaris, Finrot, or both.>
It has happened with numerous female guppies and I have had a few male guppies pass on me as well. I daily have been testing the nitrites, nitrates, ph, Alk, and chlorine, and chloramines, and the only thing that
is high is the nitrates.
<What is the pH and alkalinity? Nitrite and ammonia need to be zero.
Nitrate level 50 mg/l will be safe. The pH should be between 7 and 8, and the alkalinity "moderately high" to "high" on whatever scale your test kit comes with.>
But that shouldn't be harmful for the fish, should it? And also, any thoughts on what could be causing these white spots? I'd appreciate any and all help with fixing this and thank you for your time.
Sean
<Problems likely a combination of environmental conditions and the generally delicate nature of farmed Guppies. Can be easier to keep in brackish water, but that rules out Bettas and the other tankmates you've chosen. Cheers, Neale.>

Suicidal guppies 10/19/2011
Hi Crew,
<Hello Rhiannon>
I come to you to seek some advice regarding a sudden bout of guppy deaths I'm experiencing. <Happy to help as best I can>
First the tank specs: 150L freshwater tank. Currently has 4 angel fish of varying sizes (the largest is probably about 8cm, smallest 3 cm), <Do keep in mind that angels can be aggressive at time to each other and smaller tankmates, in particular, when they form mated pairs. Likely will establish territories as they mature.> 4 clown loaches (two approx. 8cm, smallest 3cm, and yes these guys will be moving to a 500L+ tank when they get a bit bigger/I can afford it), <Aha good, they do get quite large so I would look at this soon. There is a risk of stunting in this tank> 1 dwarf Gourami, 1 Opaline Gourami (I know, bad mix these two as I have discovered the hard way), <agree>1 black widow tetra <a likely fin nipper for your other fish>, 6 phantom glass catfish, 7 rummy nose tetras, one Bristlenose catfish and a fluctuating number of guppies. Temperature usually sits at 25C, but fluctuates slightly as the Melbourne weather so often does. pH stays fairly constantly at 7. I do weekly water changes/gravel vacs.
So I started off with 3 male guppies. After incessant sparring between them, I bought 6 females to both try disperse the aggression <You have a large number of fish your your tank size>, and to get some surface-dwelling dither fish. Everything was great until about 2 weeks ago when I found two guppies dead in a net atop my tank (one male, one female). At first I assumed they'd jumped, however the more I thought about it, the more I figured it made more sense that I was probably a murderer and accidentally scooped them up without realising when extracting the net from the tank.
There was also a missing guppy nowhere to be found. I did a thorough search of the tank and found nothing. I figured it was possible that this had also been scooped up and flipped onto the floor and been picked up by my husky puppy who loves to play with anything and everything he finds. I decided to replace these with another male and 3 more females. A few days later, along with the weekly water change I did my weekly test of water parameters and found my ammonia was at 0.5ppm. <Toxic!> As this is an established tank I was surprised. I am at an absolute loss as to why it has spiked. <Have you added livestock recently? Likely the stocking> The only think I can think of is that the missing guppy was in the tank somewhere decomposing <perhaps but I would imagine it would be taken care of by one of the other fish> , but I've found nothing, not even with the gravel vacs.
For the last week I have been doing daily or twice daily 50-75% water changes to bring the ammonia back down to zero and have dropped feeding down.<stop completely till you get the ammonia to 0. Fish can go a week or so without feeding> Nitrite and nitrate have been at zero the whole time (which confuses me more).<Should not, as ammonia starts to settle, you may well notice a nitrite spike. As for nitrates, what are you doing to keep them that low? Plants perhaps?> It is STILL relentlessly spiking to .5ppm.
If it was a decaying fish problem, how long would that last? <Depends on the size of the fish. A guppy should have been consumed quite quickly given its size.> I was trying to reestablish the cycle without chemicals, but I think I am going to have to buy some ammo lock to treat the issue. <You may want to consider some bacteria starter products. A more permanent solution.> This is going to give me a false positive reading, though, so I won't know when the problem is fixed (it's starting to feel overwhelming!).
<Relax, breathe! The problem is manageable with the right actions. By monitoring and trying to control, you are already on your way. For water changes, try doing smaller changes often rather than large changes occasionally.> Oh, I also just realised, I also have ammonia absorbing rocks in my filter back from when I was completely ignorant to the notion of tank cycling and was killing all my brand new fish after cleaning out the tank and replacing everything from the gravel to the filter. <How long have these been in use? May well be saturated>
Anyway, back to the guppies. They're dropping like flies. But only the females, the males are acting fine. <I find that angels can and will be aggressive towards fancy guppies. Gouramis too at times> My favourite girl disappeared overnight 2 days ago - I only found her when another disappeared. They'd both jumped out of the tank and were on my floor! <Is your tank completely open? Aside from the husky becoming an issue as it grows, I do prefer tanks with a good hood. Believe it or not, fish do jump out more often than you think.>I've since found another 2 dead. None of the other fish are exhibiting signs of ammonia stress, <to the eye, surely stressed though> not even the Rummynoses, which I read act like miners canaries when water quality gets bad (i.e. they lose their red faces), but they even look as healthy as ever. <are indeed quite demanding> The clown loaches, too, which I read are very sensitive to bad water quality all also look very happy and healthy. So I want to make sure that this guppy behaviour/deaths is because of the ammonia spike: are they particularly sensitive to ammonia, more so than the other fish? Or do you think something else is going on here? <While fancy guppies are indeed sensitive, it is likely a combination of the ammonia spike and stress from tankmates.
Based on the larger fish you have, perhaps you want to think about keeping similar larger species. Alternately, if you are set on guppies, you will want smaller, docile tankmates. As for your ammonia issues, you tank seems to be going through a minor cycle. Do keep monitoring and diluting and if necessary, use a bacteria starter product to assist. Levels should stabilise in a week or two.>
Appreciate any help or advice, <Hope the above helps>
Rhiannon <Cheers - Sugam>
Re: Suicidal guppies 10/19/2011
Hi Sugam, <Hello again>
Okay, relaxing and breathing! Your advice is really valuable, so thank you very much. <Glad to help>
Regarding the angels, I am aware that aggression can be an issue, but my love for them overrode my logic. <Understandable as long as you realise the risks and take appropriate measures> That was the main reason behind opting for the school of rummies, to act as ditherfish and disperse aggression.
<Will work somewhat but do keep in mind that these angels are going to get large. From your description, they are quite tiny right now. Will like get more aggressive as they mature> Have read on WWM that overcrowding with small fish can reduce aggression/make it hard to establish territories.
<Works but to an extent. When these angels get to breeding age/size, I am concerned about how big a territory they will select for their eggs.>All has been surprisingly well on the aggression front. <As above> Only twice in about 6 months of having them have I seen aggression from the zebra angel. Once seemingly unprovoked it started displaying aggressive colouration and chasing the Opaline Gourami (who was in turn chasing the dwarf Gourami - doh!). I moved the ornaments around and this ceased. <Works for a while but not a surefire solution> Second time was recently when I bought the 3cm Koi angel. I knew this was a bad move given it was less than half the size of the biggest angel, <I have found size to be less relevant with angels than established territory. I have seen a tiny little angel chase around my large Koi when the Koi was a new addition.> but I fell in love with its beauty and somehow convinced myself it'd be okay -- the zebra (who is second biggest) was immediately and predictably aggressive towards it. Immediately regretted my moment of stupidity, but when I moved the ornaments again it stopped and all has been peaceful since. <Good. Do keep an eye on things> Am considering putting the angels in the big tank when it happens, though. <Aha good! assume the clowns will follow as well?>
Regarding the clowns, how big do you think is big enough to necessitate the move? <Hard to say. I would suggest keeping them in a large tank to begin with. As they reach maturity, the first signs of stunting are not always visible but these early issues can have long standing impact.>I've read they're slow growing, <true> so am not sure how soon it will be, but now I'm worried that I'll mistake slow growing for being stunted. <As above, as soon as the means allow, I'd look at moving them.>
Black widow tetra is surprisingly aggressive. <Can be indeed> Have avoided getting a school of them as LFS said they can be aggressive in a school, and tetra seems happy. <I don't have personal experience with this fish but have read that they are best in species tanks.>
As for the guppies, it is not so much that I am set on them than I am stuck with them. I (clearly) made some very poor, uninformed stocking choices for my tank when I first set up. <Understandable. We have all been there and made many of the same mistakes. The key is to keep learning and do the best for the fish you plan to keep. Trust me, I have made some horrific stocking choices in my time!> I had had a tropical tank as a young girl and we never knew about cycling or stocking rules or anything aside from the idea that they needed warm water, a neutral pH and de-chlorinated water. I set up this one with the same attitude and just bought what was both pretty and available at my LFS. <Like I said, as you read/learn, this will sort itself out.>I wish now I hadn't brought the guppies (LFS, amongst other horrid advice, said angels and guppies are fine together), so now I'm just trying to make the best of what I have. <Do remember that they are a business and not always inclined to offer neutral opinions.> I was considering getting surface dwelling ditherfish, but when the male guppies were incessantly fighting I thought it may be nicer to them to get some girls instead.
<While the females would help solve the male aggressive, it will only aggravate the stocking issues.>
I have added livestock recently: those guppies mentioned, a baby clown loach the week prior and the Koi angel the week before that. <Wow! Slow down please. Give your tank some time to adjust.>A few weeks before that I bought the school of rummy noses, and have intermittently added 4 phantom glass catfish around the same time as the rummies. I think it was also around a month or two ago that I bought the Bristlenose Plec (who is growing faster than I can believe) <They get huge!>Do you think this is enough to have caused the spike?<Very likely> I suspect I may have overfed during this period. <Please remember that you are always more likely to overfeed than underfeed and adjust as such. A simple rule of thumb, a fish has a stomach about the same size as its eye.> I did have 4 goldfish in the tank while waiting for my housemate's new cold water tank to cycle, and they were pinching a lot of the food, so was giving more so the less gutsy fishes got some. <Very messy fish and misplaced in a tropical tank. Would have added to your bio-load.> So the answer is too much waste too soon has caused a recycling event? <Quite likely too much stock, too much waste combined.>
Good point re: the saturation of the rocks. I hadn't considered that. <Do keep in mind that the ammonia came from somewhere to saturate the rock.>
Regarding nitrates, yes, my tank does have some live plants. Though none are faring well and are eventually killed by my fish. <Do research the appropriate types/conditions and stock accordingly. The plants will consume the nitrates to an extent.> However, the cold water tank mentioned during cycling had a nitrate spike when the cycle first began, <Nitrates are the last phase of the cycle and should have shown up as the ammonia and nitrites dropped to 0.> but has been zero ever since (along with nitrite, even while ammonia was still spiking) -- this tank has no live plants. I gather from your reply this is not normal and I should be seeing a reading?
<You should usually find trace amounts of nitrates in the region of 10-20ppm. Great if you don't but not a hassle if you do.>
Yep, tank is lidless. I am planning to get a Perspex cover for it ASAP to stop the fish jumping issues (one of my clown loaches likes to feed from my hand, and every now and then I hear him sucking around the surface for food so also want to cover it to stop an accident happening here, too), as you rightly point out, I'm just waiting on someone who said they'd have one for me. <Excellent!> Husky, though still a puppy, is fully grown and has shown a complete disinterest in the aquarium (though water changes are party time as far as he's concerned), so I have no worries about him trying to get at the fish, but anything on the floor as far as he is concerned is fair game.
<I can imagine! My concern was he might see it as a drinking bowl!>
Regarding ammonia + tankmate stress - is there any reason for the female bias in this do you think (would the girls be being picked on more?), or is it just chance that only the females have reacted this way? <Likely just chance. Perhaps also some added stress from the males being in their face.>
I have seen no aggression towards the guppies from any tank mates other than each other, though this of course doesn't mean it isn't occurring. <May not be yet but there is physical aggression and then there is psychological crowding. Likely the latter here so far.>
Thanks again for your help. I do apologise for the blabbing. <No worries. Happy to help.> As a beginner to aquaria, trying to get a handle on all the complexities is taking some time, so it is an incredible help to have and knowledgeable person point out the gaps in my logic. The word thanks doesn't sum up my appreciation for the time and effort by all the crew here. <Thanks for the kind words. Don't let the amount of information overwhelm you. Just take things slow and make a plan for what you want your tank to be a year, two years and so on down the line. You may want to consider speaking to your LFS about taking some of the fish back for store credit. This gives you some breathing room to sort things out and make plans. Do keep reading and researching. It is the only way to learn.>
Many kind regards, <Good luck!>
Rhiannon <Sugam>
Re: Suicidal guppies 10/20/11
Hi Sugam, <Hiya Rhiannon!>
So far no one else is dying (or looking ill) so there's a positive.
<Excellent news> Interesting to note that the prettiest guppies are the ones to have died, so I'm wondering if the less pretty ones are a bit hardier (though no doubt still stressed). <Like I said, fancy guppies are a touch more sensitive due to inbreeding. Perhaps part of the reason.> I've stopped feeding, bought bacteria booster <go easy on the dosing> and am doing smaller water changes as you suggested. <Sounds like a plan!> Ammonia tests are being a bit odd: initially they will come up as yellow (0ppm) but after a longer than usual period (10-15 minutes rather than 5) will turn green (between 0.25-0.5 ppm). <Odd. Do check the test kit expiration date.
I would have suggested taking water to an LFS for testing but from your description below, that seems pointless.> But after they've been sitting a while (a few hours) they will turn yellow again (This is before the addition of the bacteria booster). I've never had that happen with the tests. <Check expiration and if budget permits, double check with a second kit of a different brand. It does sound from your description previously that you do have some ammonia in the tank.>
Apologies in my last email I said that the black widow was aggressive - that was a typo, I meant unaggressive. Oops. <Huh! so much for that theory.
Read here to learn about this fish
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/BlkSkirtTetraF.htm
>
Yep, clowns will follow the angels, or rather vice versa. Priority is to get the clowns in a larger tank (LFS told me they'd be fine in a 150L tank - wish I had of realised then the importance of independent research).
<Never too late.> They're unfortunately very expensive, so am keeping a look out for listings of second hand tanks within my price range. <Don't overstretch yourself. You could also perhaps look at local message boards for used tanks.>(If it can wait till March next year I get a scholarship payment then, so that may be the ideal time to buy) That's an amazing story with the Koi angels - thanks for sharing, I was under the impression size was everything here. <No rules of thumb here but I have usually seen the established fish give the new one trouble (in the case of angels)>
Appreciate the advice. I did read around WWM that sometimes having 6+ angels can induce schooling behaviour, so I'm considering getting 2 more angels once they move to a big tank. <Don't do this. Not really a schooling fish but the numbers you have read tend to instead help establish a pecking order. Your tank size does not permit this for now. In any case, do not add anything for at least 3-4 weeks after ammonia is a stable 0> Already the 4 I have seem to school together <Not exactly schooling but I do tend to hang out together.> and will usually crowd in the same corner and sleep together at night. <Will change as mated pairs are formed> But is this just because they're not mature enough yet?
You raise a good point re husky and drinking bowl. Tank is on a stand and the top is at least 1.5m off the ground, so I think mere logistics is keeping them safe there. <Aha! good> There's actually an unfinished pond in my backyard from previous tenants which I intend to finish in future - will have to brainstorm ideas to husky proof it (playing in water is his second favourite thing in the world, second only to running - when he can combine both it's like all his dreams have come true at once). <Oh boy! that's going to be a fun project! >
Did bring up the topic of returning stock with my LFS -- was at one point considering getting a female Gourami(s) in an attempt to stop aggression towards the dwarf and wanted to know if they'd take them back if it made the problem worse (was subtly trying to suss out if returning the dwarf was an option, also). They said they won't take returns, mainly due to concerns regarding inheriting diseases from customers' tanks, which I understand.
<Fair enough. Again there is the option of forums and message boards in the local area. I live in a fairly immature market as regards the hobby so I have the same issues with stores as the ones you describe. I have found a group of folks who have a passion for the hobby and we trade with each other.>That one is a general pet store (hence the bad advice - only two staff members I've discovered know anything about fish, the others were probably just saying anything to get through their shift). <unfortunate reality of this business and perhaps many others.> There's only one aquarium in my vicinity, which has changed owners recently and has since dived. It stinks something awful and has the saddest looking fish I've ever seen. No one really swims around, they all just sort of hover there unmoving, and there's usually many a dead fish in the tanks - before the days of my tropical tank, I bought three goldfish from there. One was dead not 5 minutes after leaving the store. It's really sad because the previous owner was awesome.
They will buy fish off customers, but I'd rather not condemn a fish to that place! <Fair enough, I would not either.>
Thanks again. Will file all that you've said away in the memory bank for future use. <Good luck! Don't let these early hiccups get you down. You are doing the right things and with time and practice, you should be well on your way. When you do plan your restocking, start with the hardy fish to gain some experience and then move from there. Just remember that these creatures depend on us totally for their needs and have no real way of showing us they are in distress. That makes it even more incumbent upon us that we are diligent in our rhythm and routine in their care. Keep a journal with test readings and prepare care sheets of your own. It has always helped me keep information in order.>
Rhiannon. <Cheers - Sugam>

Need help with my Guppies
Guppy deaths/fry care - 10/16/11
Hi <Hello!> I'm new to your website and I love it. <Glad you find it a useful resource.> Well I purchased a male and a female guppy about a month ago the male only lived 4 days but the female was still alive. <What kind of tank do you have them in? Have you figured out why the male did not make it?> Bout <About> 2 days ago I notice she had given birth to 12 babies I went to da <the> store and purchased a bigger tank but this morning when I went to feed them I found her dead. What could be the reason she died and will her babies survive. <The answer to your question lies in the conditions you have provided for the fish. Fancy guppies are not exactly beginner fish. They tend to be a touch sensitive in my experience. If there is no external sign of disease, the problem likely lies with the water chemistry and environment in your tank but without information on the same, I can only suggest that you read more about the care of this fish here -
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/guppies.htm
Please also read the related FAQs linked at the top of the page. If you tank is fully cycled and your water parameters measure up to those suggested, they fry will likely be okay. You may want to consider First Bites or the like for feeding since adult food is likely going to be to large to start with - Sugam>

sick guppy 10/6.5/11
One of my fancy male guppies is acting strange. he swims a bit and then falls to the bottom of the tank.(three days now).
I moved him from the big tank to my nursery where I have 2 month old babies......is there something I can do .thanks AN
<Do start by reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/guppies.htm
Without information on your aquarium, we can't know what's the matter.
Check through the requirements for aquarium size, water chemistry, water quality, temperature and social behaviour. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: sick guppy 10/6.5/11
He is in a large fish bowl with 9 -2mos old guppies. about 4-5 quarts of water, that I take out some and add some new every few days. he has only been in this bowl a few days. he was in the larger tank and was just laying in the foliage, his tail is a bit shredded. we use spring water that we buy, there is a heater and a filter in the bowl. The heater keeps the water 3-5 degrees above room temp. and the babies are doing fine. I have added some salt to the water but very little, he comes up to eat and then sinks to the bottom and lays on the warm rocks over the heater. he seems to look like he is opening and closing his mouth a lot. but maybe this is normal.
thanks again AN
<You are keeping your Guppies incorrectly. They are being stressed, killed by the environment you have placed them in. You cannot keep them in a fish bowl (which, despite the name, isn't a humane way to keep fish). Guppies need an aquarium at least 15 gallons/60 litres in size with a heater maintaining a steady temperature of 24-28 C/75-82 F. Furthermore they must have a biological filter that ensures 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. Water chemistry should be hard and alkaline; 10+ degrees dH, pH 7-8. The addition of 2-3 grammes of marine salt mix per litre is beneficial but not essential. Until you correct their environment, any other treatments will be pointless. The fact you think the babies are "fine" is irrelevant. They won't be healthy for long. Do, please, read where you were directed, and also here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/guppysysfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdis3setsfactors.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
difference... Re Guppy disease/killing -- 10/07/11
Ok so you say i am killing my guppies,
<In a bowl? Yes.>
they have been in this situation for over six months
<Guppies can, should live 3-5 years.>
and this is the only one that is not looking normal.
<So far.>
how do old fish act as I bought him at a little store out in the boonies'
<At six months old he should be in the prime of his life.>
He is still eating just not very active, just lays around . I have checked with a pet store in Calgary where I bought some of my fish and they told me bottled spring water was fine,
<Bottled water is an expensive way to keep an aquarium. Do bear in mind you need 15 gallons, minimum, for a HUMANE aquarium for Guppies. That's a lot of bottled water! But provided the water chemistry is right, i.e., hard and alkaline, then sure, go ahead and use it. As you'll learn if you prod about this site, pet stores aren't always the most reliable sources of information. Does the pet store specialise in fish? Or are fish sold alongside rodents, cat and dog food, etc.? Generic pet stores may be great places to shop, but don't assume their advice is reliable. Go ahead and borrow or buy a book on aquarium fish, and you'll see what I'm telling you is true. Unlike a pet store, I'm not selling you anything. I'm here to help.
we live in the country and don't drink our well water..I was also told I could use it for fish but all the gold fish died when I did that so now trying guppies.....maybe I should forget FISH
<If you can't provide the right conditions for a pet animal, then no, you shouldn't keep them. But before you throw in the towel, do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/BettaGldfshKpgArt.htm
Keeping fish properly needn't be hard or expensive; just thoughtful.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: difference
He was a really active fish up until now, he is still the first one up for food and then goes back to the bottom, are those kits that are sold at Wal-mart reliable for testing the water.
<They're useful enough. At minimum, you want a nitrite (not nitrate!) test kit and a pH test kit. These tell you the two most important things: how well your biological filter is working, and roughly what sort of water chemistry you have. For healthy Guppies, you want zero nitrite and a pH between 7 and 8.5.>
Should I be keeping this fish with the others or by himself, he has a tattered looking tail.........'¦
<Raggedy fins are a common symptom of Finrot, hence the name. But physical damage (e.g., from fighting or fin-nipping) can cause fins to become tattered too, and complicating things further, once fins are damaged, Finrot becomes more common. If fish have damaged fins, and you're not 100% sure water quality is excellent, it's a good idea to treat for Finrot just in case. Tea-tree Oil products like Melafix might be used successfully to prevent infections, but I'd suggest something more reliable if the fins are infected, for example an antibiotic like Maracyn.>
the pet store I inquired at has fish only and the man who runs it seems to know his stuff and cares ,
<Good to know.>
he is the one that got me up to 2 months with the babies I rescued from the big tank. I think they are almost big enough to put into the big tank(30gal) They aren't having any problems with the filter now and I don't think they are so small that they will get sucked up in the bigger filter, should I put them in the big tank to give them a better chance? Thanks AN
<Once Guppies are more than 3-4 weeks old they're generally big enough to live alongside their parents. If you're not 100% sure though, try using a breeding trap or breeding net. Put the trap or net in the main aquarium, put the baby fish in there, and keep them safely corralled inside the breeding trap or net until they're a good size, say, 1 cm long. You can then turn them loose. Don't put adults in breeding traps though -- despite the marketing, females get stressed in them, and there's nothing to stop a cannibalistic female turning around and eating her fry anyway! Much better to put lots of floating Indian Fern (Water Sprite) in the tank, and then wait for the babies to instinctively hide among those plants. Every morning check the plants and then scoop out the fry and place them in the breeding net. Easy! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: difference
Thanks all this fish stuff stresses me ,my Granddaughter says the tiger barb in the tank may be a problem with the fry.
<Yes, Tiger Barbs will eat Guppy fry and they will also nip at the fins of male Guppies. Singleton Tiger Barbs are especially dangerous, and Tiger Barbs should always be kept in groups of 6+ specimens. They're amazingly pushy, feisty little fish!>
It's her fault I am trying fish, I am a very responsible pet owner but these little beggars are trying my patience.
<Well'¦ The thing with fish that you're being given the keys to a zoo. There are literally hundreds of species on sale. And just like a real zoo, just because you've got a tiger, a kangaroo, and a gorilla doesn't mean you're going to keep them in the same enclosure! Yet folks buy fish assuming they'll all get along. But they won't! And each species has its own demands. Yes, lots get along just fine, and many are tolerant of a wide range of water chemistry values. But most aren't, and most will only get along with certain sorts of fish. Angels eat Neons, so can't be kept together, but Neons and Corydoras catfish make great companions! It's all about doing your research up front, and choosing your fish carefully. There are lots of good books out there, and we're always glad to help make sensible choices. Why not have a read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_5/volume_5_3/stocking.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestk.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/EthicalAqArtJHelfrich.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/BettaGldfshKpgArt.htm
These offer up some advice on options and choices. Choose the right fish for the size of tank you have and your local water chemistry conditions, and honestly, fish couldn't be easier! A bit of food, some water changes, that's about it. Holidays are easy-peasey because you can leave fish for 2 weeks without food and they're fine. If you're spending more than half an hour a week on your aquarium, or more than a couple of bucks in food across a month, then you're doing something VERY WRONG.>
Over the years my one horse lived until she was 30, her daughter is now 19, a cat well into his teens, 2 romping dogs, and 6 budgies some over 10 yrs, now these fish giving me gray hair.
<Do suspect it's not the fish that are causing the problems, but the CHOICES of fish you've made being poor ones.>
Thanks again for all your help, we are going to get our water tested, my hubby says the water for the fish is probably the same deal as when we had the swim. pool...test, test, test. AN
<Really shouldn't be anything like this hard. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: difference 10/9/11
I choose the fish that the pet store guy told me would get along.
<Not a sensible approach.>
Will gold fish be okay with the guppies??
<Not really, no. Goldfish need a 30+ gallon aquarium and heavy filtration.
They are not nearly as easy to keep as people think, which is why the majority of Goldfish sold die prematurely. Bear in mind they should live 20-30 years and reach sizes of at least 20 cm/8 inches. Most of the ones sold live a few months or a couple of years, and even if they do survive in small tanks and (shudder) bowls, they don't have much of a life, and basically hang there in midwater looking glum, slowly being poisoned or suffocated. Guppies are best kept on their own or else with things like Red Cherry Shrimps that don't pose any sort of threat to them. These will tolerate any salt you add, something you can't be sure of with other aquarium fish.>
just may give my granddaughter the tiger. thanks AN
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: help! 9/30/11
hi again guys, I have wrote to you before about my Danios. that problem is solved thank you. this time its my 4 coral red guppies. I am feeding them bloodworm and tropical fish flakes alternately. day by day one of them are lying on their side at bottom of the tank, then he gets a lease of life and swims erratically around the tank. have I gave him swim belly by feeding him blood worm and should I feed them blood worm so often.
I also have 9 neon tetras, 2 male guppies, 2 mollies, 1 sucker fish and 2 cat fish. what am I doing wrong please help have only had my 95 litre tank for 2 months. thank you. jen
<Hello Jen. Do need some details here. At first glance, your aquarium sounds overstocked, or at least will be soon: the Common Plec and the so-called Chinese Algae Eater -- both traded as "sucker fish" -- would need an aquarium at least twice the size of the one you have. Even if small now, both will reach full size within 12-18 months, and before that time the Chinese Algae Eater especially can cause major problems through its aggressive behaviour. Neons and Corydoras catfish are soft water fish, while Mollies and Guppies are hard water fish, so it's not really possible to keep them together. My guess would be that your environmental conditions are wrong for the species concerned. To summarise:
Neons, 2-10 degrees dH, pH 6-7.5, temperature 22-25 C; no salt.
Corydoras, 2-20 degrees dH, pH 6-8, temperature 22-25 C; no salt.
Guppies, 10-25 degrees dH, pH 7-8.5, temperature 24-28 C; salt is beneficial but not needed.
Mollies, 15-30 degrees dH, pH 7.5-8.5, temperature 24-28 C; the addition of salt at 5-6 grammes/litre is makes Mollies much easier to keep.
As you can see, there's little overlap. Cheers, Neale.>

strange marking on Guppy mouth (RMF, Columnaris?) <<>> 9/26/11 <<Unfortunately appears so. I would IMMEDIATELY aggressively treat for (Neomycin sulfate), and euthanize/remove this most mal-affected specimen. BobF>> Hi Crew Trust you have all had a great weekend so far. <Very good, thanks; and hope yours good too.> Earlier today I noticed that one of my female guppies had strange white around her mouth and her left eye looked a bit cloudy see pix attached is this something to worry about? <Yes.> Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 5 Tank size 100 lt 6 adults 25 juvenile females (small in size) 3 fork tail blue eye rainbow fish 2 Platies 1 Gourami Colisa labiosa many thanks for your help in advance. <Do think this is Columnaris, also called "Mouth Fungus" despite being a bacterial infection. Quite common among livebearers. Usually indicates some environmental stress, typically water that is too soft, too acidic, or too cold. Do review conditions. Fancy Guppies need middling to high temperatures, 25-28 C; moderately hard to very hard water, 10-30 degrees dH; and pH levels between 7.5-8.5. The addition of marine aquarium salt at 2 g/l (about a teaspoon per US gallon) is a major plus, but may stress the Gourami (the Rainbows won't mind). In any case, medicate as per Columnaris, taking care to remove carbon from the filter. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: More re: strange marking on Guppy mouth (RMF, Columnaris?) 9/26/11 Hi Bob <BJ> Many thanks for your reply - I have treated the guppy with Furnol2 <? What is this? According to Google, furniture polish? A Furacyn product? Not likely efficacious> for 30 min.s in a separate container. Have place her back in main tank with in a separate small birthing net. <... not a good idea to put this fish back in w/ the others> Is this ok or should I remove her completely (euthanise). <I would do the latter. Do please search on WWM... the search tool on every page... w/ the term "Columnaris"... NOW. BobF> BJ Re: More re: strange marking on Guppy mouth (RMF, Columnaris?) 9/26/11 Love your sense of humour your a cool guy I meant JBL Furanol 2. <Heeeee!> Will follow your advice. Many thanks BJ <As many welcomes. B> Re: Columnaris 10/4/11 Bob <Pat> Just wanted to say that after five days of Esha2000 treatment and careful monitoring (as well as euthanasia of four badly infected fish / fish with dropsy), the tank appears to be settling and those with some cotton mouth / eye coverage are in remission. <Very good news. Generally there's real trouble w/ these cases> I haven't done any water changes yet but with a combination of less food (brine shrimp rather than flake food) Esha2000 treatment, lowering the tank temperatures (as far as I am able) to 74 degrees, it appears to be having positive results. Hopefully in a few days, all signs of cotton mouth will have gone and I can start to introduce some water changes to bring the tanks back to non-medicated states. Thanks for all your help and support. I almost gave up on keeping fish but have decided to keep going, but not to replace my stock with guppies (they are just too genetically weak). However, some important learnings have been taken on board! Many thanks as ever, Pat <"I'm in the mood for a moray, simply because they're finless... No P1's or pelvics, I'm in the mood for an eel". Cheers, BobF> Re: Columnaris "I'm in the mood for a moray, simply because they're finless... No P1's or pelvics, I'm in the mood for an eel" what's the song Bob? I don't know the original fishless version. Pat <Ahh, sub "amore" for the corrupted " a moray"... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I'm_in_the_Mood_for_Love BobF>