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new tank.... Hysterical 4/12/16 Pieter's 20 foot long reef tank <bent-glass, very nice SW>
9/12/13
300 Gallon Acrylic fish Tank for sale Or Trade
1/10/12 Advice needed on large reef tank. Rusting, circ.,
lighting 10/26/11 Protein Skimmer Options/Protein Skimmers/Selection
1/14/11 Upgrading Tank
9/19/10 Outdoor Saltwater Pond Heating So Cal - 5/22/10
Set Up a new Large Aquarium... Uhh, not yet
12/21/2009 Re: Set Up a new Large Aquarium 12/22/09 300gallon fish system help... tell me the truth... in one
hundred words or less 8/19/09 240 Gallons Of Decisions, Decisions -- 08/18/09 Sand beds in marine aquariums
7/11/09 Setup Problems with New 350g Tank -- 01/20/09. Someone with the crew.... HELP!!! <<Yikes! What's the problem?>> I spoke with Eric Russell a while back <<Tis I again>> about my future 340Gallon tank and it is now well under way and has hit 400 Gallons. <<Neat!>> I have hit a HUGE issue with it though concerning it being .... level in a sort. <<Uh-oh>> The stand is a concrete block and I-beam setup. (3 - W6X20 I beams supported on each end by a concrete wall, (block with concrete poured in holes)) <<Okay, let's see if I understand'¦ You have 3ea. 6'x20' beams (laminated, I assume) spanning approximately 7-feet and supported by cement-filled concrete block end walls. Sounds like more than enough to me'¦but what did the structural engineer say? [grin]>> The beams were level when they sat without the tank front to back and side to side. (Checked with a 4 ft level, tank dims are 84X36X30) Over the weekend I got some unpaid help to pick the tank up and put it on the stand. During this process we construction glued the beams to the concrete, construction glued a 3/4 inch piece of exterior grade 7 ply plywood, that was sealed with Rustoleum paint, to the I beam, and then a 3/4 inch piece of insulation to level out inconsistencies. All of the gluing and then the placing of the tank on the stand happened within 30 min to an hour. <<I trust you checked to make sure all was level and planar after each stage of the operation'¦>> I started to fill the tank with tap water today to check for leaks, when I left to go out to dinner I threw the water hose back inside the house (it was attached to an outside spigot.). When I did this the water left in the hose began a siphon and sucked all the water back out of the tank. (It was only about an 1/8th - 1/4 full) So while I was frantically searching for a leak (not paying attention to the trail of water that had poured from the end of the hose I threw through the window), I found a 1/4" gap between the Foam/plywood/Tank on the front left corner. <<Not good>> The gap dissipates over the distance of the tank. And the front left is the only place it exists. Someone told me that the insulation foam will not even compress under the weight of the tank, <<'¦!>> and this wouldn't be the reason for the gap??? <<The foam WILL compress'¦but is not the reason for the gap. I wish you had supplied a picture'¦. Oh wait, you sent a link in a follow up email: (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1515150&perpage=25&pagenumber=4). Ah okay, I see now>> (I was thinking that the weight of the water that was in the tank would have caused it to compress a bit...maybe not?) I'm at a loss. The tank itself as it sits is still level front to back AND side to side. <<Since this is an acrylic tank, I'm now wondering if the defect is in the tank and not in the stand'¦hmm'¦ Acrylic tanks will take a bit of flexing'¦and this tank may well be fine in the long run. But'¦ I would consult with the manufacturer of the tank before going any further. And if it turns out, I would also get any recommendation from them to press ahead 'as is,' in writing>> Signed, Confused Reefer... :( << Hang in there Adam'¦ It may turn out you need do no more than fill the tank and let it set a bit'¦or you may have to remove the tank and re-check and re-level the stand. But talk to the manufacturer of the tank first, they are the best to advise you here. Especially if you don't want to void the warranty on the tank. Cheers mate, EricR>> Re: Setup Problems with New 350g Tank -- 01/20/09. As I'm sure you've noticed from looking at the thread the I-beams were steel 6in at 20lbs per foot (3/4" thick). <<Ah! No, I didn't get this from the photo'¦but then I didn't look over the entire thread>> And no I didn't level after adding the plywood, it was slightly bowed from when I painted it and I figured the weight of the tank would flatten it back out. <<Mmm, I see'¦ Then maybe the corner of the plywood is turned down a bit as a result of the bowing'¦I can't tell for sure, but it does look as if the plywood extends a bit to the front past the beam?>> The tank manufacturer is actually a local fish store that made the 120 in my basement now. <<Oh good'¦>> He is coming out Thursday to get the tank back on the stand and work with me to get it right. <<Excellent!>> I did find that taking a four foot level on the bottom of the tank it wobbled back and forth about 1/8 of an inch,... <<Ah, okay'¦ Probably not a big issue (or all that uncommon even), but we'll see what the guy who built the tank says, eh>> On the side that had the gap... <<Well there ya go'¦>> Hopefully we will be able to get things straightened out Thursday. <<Am sure you will>> Thanks for your input. :) <<Happy to share. EricR>> Re: Larger Scale Live Rock Alternative -- 08/21/08 WWM Folks, <<Howdy Ryan>> After much deliberation and fretting, we have decided against "substituting" rock with anything. <<'¦?>> We have located a few pallets of "dead" rock, and have settled on the fact that this is going to be our best option, for many reasons. <<Ah, ok'¦and I agree'¦even 'dead' rock is a better alternative than any non-marine (e.g. - terrestrial rock) or artificial (e.g. - concrete, ceramic) substitute in my estimation. If only for the buffering and bio-mineral content>> (Obviously "cost effectiveness" is not one of those reasons!) The issue of our existing 1,000lbs of rock potentially needing a "boost" was brought up in our last message, and this is what concerns us now. <<Okay>> With 2,000lbs of rock on its way, we want to be sure that we are going to have enough bacteria to get things rockin' in the most effective and timely manner possible. <<I see'¦ That which is most beneficial in my mind re bio-diversity would be to add some 'new' live rock to the system. 'Fresh' rock would be best'¦and have little impact re spiking the nitrogen cycle considering the volume of your system and the current amount of cured rock. A couple boxes of new rock scattered throughout the rest would certainly give that 'boost'>> I've spent some time reading through a few of the ideas regarding bottled bacteria, and their effectiveness, but they mainly seem to be focused at the home aquarium, not a 3,000 gallon facility. <<Indeed'¦and generally used to start/restart the biological processes in new and damaged home systems'¦though adding to a healthy system can also be of benefit>> With the amount of "amazing and wonderful" products that are available today, in your opinion, which has proven effective? <<Hands down 'Bio-Spira''¦ This is a refrigerated product that is very effective, but considering the size of your system I think some live rock would prove no more expensive>> And would there be any benefit (or draw backs) to combining multiple manufacturers products for something on this scale? (i.e. Seachem Stability, Marc Weiss Boost, etc?) <<These others will be of varying to even questionable utility'¦bets to stick with just the Bio-Spira if you go this route'¦though I like the live rock idea better>> With a considerable amount of water and rock, I'm sure one bottle won't do it, <<Indeed'¦>> so should I make some crazy bacteria cocktail? <<You could I suppose'¦but using a mix of un-refrigerated products that have been sitting on a shelf for who knows how long will be of unknown value>> Any thoughts on the negative results this might produce? <<The negative aspect is slight'¦the possible addition of a product or products that do little more than pollute the system. I suggest you either not worry about it at all and let the existing system 'ramp up' the new rock in time, or use the Bio-Spira and/or live rock in whatever amounts you can afford'¦and maybe still having to wait a bit for the system to balance. There's no overnight wonder-product for what you seek'¦but the fact you already have 1,000lbs of cured/bio-active rock along with a large amount of water (do mix the old water with the new) is in your favor re getting the system up and running quickly>> Thanks again, Ryan <<A pleasure to share. Eric Russell>>
Larger Scale Live Rock Alternative -- 07/09/08 Crew, <<Hey Ryan>> Thank you for providing such an extensive resource to our community, your service is second to none. <<Thank you much for the kind words'¦redeeming indeed>> I have read and re-read most of what has already been published here regarding different types of live rock "substitutes", (i.e. cinder blocks, lava rock, homemade, etc.), <<I see>> and our problem/situation is on a bit of different scale than those discussed thus far. <<Oh?>> We are in need of a much larger volume of rock, and due to the obvious costs, etc., are in search of ANY reliable alternatives. <<Mmm, I understand'¦but do realize there is no real 'alternative' to live rock, only poor substitutes of varying degree>> We currently operate a coral propagation facility with roughly 1,300 gallons and 1,000lbs of rock that has been in our tanks for years. Well-seeded, to say the least. <<Maybe so'¦but also likely in need of a 'boost'>> January 1st, we are expanding to a new location, with roughly 5,000g planned, and would like to get "whatever it is we are going to use" for rock/bio, to start seeding in our current system right away. <<Some of your existing rock will serve well as a start-up bacteria culture'¦but after 'years' is low in soluble bio-mineral content and alkaline reserve'¦as well as diminished bio-diversity>> We have the time and space now to start whatever "curing" process is going to be needed before introducing it into the current system, but we are concerned about the long term effects of items like cinder blocks, etc. leaching at the new shop. <<The biggest immediate concern is elevated pH (as high as 12.0 and above with new 'cement' products), but this is easily 'cured' down to acceptable levels'¦though the process can be lengthy (8 weeks or more). Long term issues in my experience with cement-based rock are excessive/problematic nuisance alga growth'¦and the fact that it provides no real bio-mineral content or buffer capacity/alkaline reserve>> So, my 2 questions are... Is there any truth to the different "soaking" methods (vinegar) to prevent this effect? <<The vinegar will not 'prevent' anything'¦rather, the Acetic Acid can be useful in 'speeding up' the curing process. I have no personal experience with this method as I have always just used a plain water-soak, and from what I have heard, the added cost/trouble is little worth it. But do feel free to give it a try and decide for yourself>> In dealing with something on this scale, has any rock substitute been proven reliable on a long term basis? <<Terrestrial limestone may well be your best choice here. It will be much more dense/heavy than good live rock, will not support as much bacteria load as live rock, and brings nothing to the table re bio-diversity'¦but can be bought cheaply in bulk, and is a more 'natural' source than the cement-based products (e.g. -- cinderblock)'¦and though you will need to test to be sure, it will not likely need 'curing.' With the limestone, do consider utilizing as much 'new live rock' as you can to provide those needed elements the limestone can't provide'¦perhaps as much as a fifth of the total volume (but the more the better!)'¦doing so will also make the limestone 'better'>> Thank you for all that you folks do. Ryan Haag <<We are happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
new 650 gallon tank -02/23/08 hello. bob and team im getting 8ftx3ftx3.5ft marine tank. and I am an intermediate im going to buy the best equipment available here are the fish that I want to keep queen angelfish emperor angelfish majestic angelfish Koran angelfish annularis angelfish cream angelfish Volitans lion 2 yellow tangs 2naso tang 2 regal blue tangs 2powder blue im making sure that the pairs are male female are these fine in this sized tank.. also can I add 2 Moorish idol juveniles.... thank you for your information and I love your website. bye <To start, please see the following: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fishindex3.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fishonsetup.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeflvst.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/MarLvSel.htm ...and many other articles on these topics. You have a lot of reading to do. I'll let you get started. :-) Best, Sara M.> 300 Gallon Tank Setup 1/29/08 Dear crew, would greatly appreciate your input on how you would plumb and setup a virgin 300gallon acrylic tank? <OK, no problem.> Measurements are 96lX24wX30h and 3/4in thick with two overflow boxes one in each corner 5inX6in. It sits 3ft above the floor on a wrought iron stand on a cement slab. It will be a fish only tank, but would like to try reef in 4 or 5yrs. I had a duplicate tank in glass 10yrs ago, but lost it in a divorce. I ran 1 ½' bulkheads in each overflow box (no risers, pretty noisy) which teed under the tank into a 55gallon tank I turned into a wet /dry. I had a 1in return run by a little giant#4pressure pump which ran 4ft up, back into the middle of the tank. I also was running an ocean/clear canister filter on a separate little giant#4 from two 1in bulkheads on the bottom of the tank. I had a top fathom protein skimmer I ran part time (always had to tinker with it) with fluorescent lighting (nothing special). I also was using 4in of crushed shells for substrate. Ten years later here I am starting from scratch. Here are my questions. 1. What modifications would you make to the plumbing? <The plumbing sounds fine so long as you plan to run 1500 gph or less (maybe around 1000gph to stay safe) through your overflows. If you want more plan on an extra 750 max per each additional 1 ½' or step them up to 2' for around 1300 gph max. Do leave some safety margin in these overflow rates, do not run them to full capacity. It is also a good idea to have some redundancy here. As far as returns, this will depend on the flow rate also. You can run your returns through the bottom as before, just be sure the actual outputs are near the top of the tank to prevent too much siphoning in the event of a power outage.> 2. Are wet/dries outdated and canisters better (rainbow)? <More modern day reefs no longer use either, as well as the growing number of FOWLR (fish only with live rock) tanks. The live rock provide biofiltration and your sump houses equipment such as your skimmer, heater, a filter sock if you want, etc. If you want a reef down the road you will need to invest in live rock anyhow, and it is a great addition to a fish only tank. Also consider adding a refugium, the bigger the better.> 3. What protein skimmers would you recommend (here AquaC is pretty good). <These are good skimmers, do look at the EuroReef line also.> 4. Would I be better off with metal halides (what wattage) or compact fluorescents? <For a fish only it is just what light appeals to you to see your fish. Halides will cost more to run and will generate more heat that will be transferred to the tank. If you will need them when you convert to a reef depends on what you wish to keep. If it will truly be 4 or 5 years before the reef conversion, fluorescent will be the way to go, unless you particularly want the shimmer halides provide.> 5. what type of substrate crushed coral or sand? <Sand, it will trap less detritus. Also consider setting up a DSB, check out the article and related FAQ's here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm . DSB's will provide some denitrification.> 6. Would you add another pump for just circulation? <Yes, again how much depends on what you run through your sump, but a minimum of 10 times your tank volume per hour for total circulation. You can accomplish this with powerheads also.> 7. What size risers would you put in the overflow boxes to cut down on noise, if 1 1/2 bulkheads would you use 1 1/2diam risers or reduce to 1in. <The larger for sure.> 8. How high would you go with the risers, 12in high? <First of all, for risers, I assume you are talking about the Durso style standpipes? Put them a few inches below the upper edge of the overflow. If you put them too low you will have much more noise from the water falling into the overflow.> 9. What type of pumps would you recommend, am I better off with pond pumps? <For return pumps, Iwaki or Eheims, and PanWorld are my personal choices. If you want a closed loop for circulation the Reeflo Dart pumps are very energy efficient a quiet.> 10. Would you recommend the use of a uv light or ozone? <I am not a fan of using the UV. Ozone is a great addition, but not completely necessary. A good skimmer, addition of a refugium and live rock will to fine.> I ran my old tank for 3yrs without any problems, but think I was a little lucky since my tank was overstocked. Thanks for your time and recommendations. thanks, James <Welcome, do keep reading, things have changed a bit since your last tank. I have included a few links to get you started, good luck, Scott V.> http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i5/Filtration/Filtration.htm http://wetwebmedia.com/liverock1.htm http://wetwebmedia.com/thrhullsizing.htm http://wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
Large Scale Aquarium Systems - 06/27/07 Hello Bob, <Brian> I am always anticipating what seems to be the next level or natural progression of where my business is going (so I think). <You are wise here, twice, perhaps thrice> It seems that it is only a matter of time before I am given the opportunity to either design, install or maintain (preferably) a "Large Scale" aquarium system. To me a "Large Scale System" would be defined as 1,000 gallons or greater, salt or freshwater and usually for public display (restaurants, zoos, science centers etc.) With my experience up to this point being aquarium systems (primarily saltwater, and specifically saltwater reef) up to 800 gallons or less, how does one transition into the business of these systems. <Accept the task at hand, think/cogitate (maybe furiously), and get on with it... Akin to food recipes, a good deal of what is done is scalable> I would think that the most ideal method is to apprentice with a company or organization already dealing with these systems? <Could be> I do not want to lessen the magnitude of these systems by thinking that they are very similar to smaller, < 1,000 gallon systems, with the only difference being a matter of scale in filter sizes, plumbing sizes, lighting etc., but I wonder if that is indeed a lot of the difference? <In all actuality, not really> I am also in the water garden arena and I have built and managed systems of up to 40,000 gallons. However, I know that these are open systems, and treated very differently from closed/aquarium systems. Your expert input would be greatly appreciated! Sincerely, Brian Dahle www.fishmanservices.com <Mmm, is there a given aspect you'd like to discuss? I do agree that lake mgmt. is different than small volumes... harder, longer-term, less-expensive means of "turning" (like navigating a large ship with a small rudder)... but in practical consideration, there is not much difference between a hundred gallon fish tank and a thousand gallons... or ten times this amount. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Large marine filter gear 6/6/07 First, thank you in advance for your time and expertise. I live in FL and building a 300gallon, 375 with refugium filter reef system. <How nice!> An ETSS 600 Pro skimmer was recommended to me. <Mmm, there are better choices... Posted on WWM...> Is this the best and should I use ozone to a new system. Regards, Shawn Sturm <I would definitely look into and use Ozone (and maybe even a desiccator to go with it) if this were my large marine system. Bob Fenner> Double Skimming? -- 5/19/07 Hello, <Hi, James> Is it a good idea to run two skimmers at the same time? <Sometimes. It depends on your situation.> I have recently built a new 920 gallon system. <Ooh, nice!> I am using an aqua-medic 5000 baby skimmer, which is rated at 528 gallons. <Does sound like it's a little undersized.> It is producing dark good quality skimmate non stop. <And you are wondering how much it is leaving behind...> So, I am looking at the AquaMedic 5000 twin which is rated for 1320 gallons. Should I run the twin along with the baby or just use the twin? <If you have room to run both while you get the new one tweaked and broken in, you will have a chance to see what both will do. If they both continue to produce significantly, then you may want to keep both if serious skimming is your goal. If the larger skimmer makes the original obsolete, it will be obvious. I am running a similar experiment myself, and am soon to remove the original, as the new skimmer is removing enough that the original is not earning its keep.> Many Thanks in advance, James. Extremely large tank setup, care questions. Business possibilities. 5/13/07 Hello Mr. Fenner. I hope emailing you direct was alright? <All comes, goes to the same place...> I talked with Adam Jackson from your staff and he said you would be best at answering this question so I am sending this straight to you. Our store may have a huge tank setup in the near future and we are wondering (I get the responsibility to email you) how it is done. I am sure you have seen the extremely large (6,000 gallon) tanks in Florida and elsewhere. The tanks I am referring to are the cylinder tanks with the fake rock and coral insert for an overflow and return, these are at restaurants such as RainForest Cafe (not sure you've heard of that). <Yes... have been to... even seen these tanks fabricated... SeaClear/Tradewind/Casco... in Cerritos... the four owners are friends...> So here are the main questions, how do these tanks with a small amount of sand and no visible live rock break down ammonia and nitrite? <Filtration provided elsewhere...> My first thought is loads of Bioballs? <One approach...> I am assuming these tanks have enormous sumps filled with either the Bioballs or a massive amount of live rock? <Another> How frequent would a very large water change be on a tank like this? <With "proper" maintenance, not often... expensive to toss...> What type of equipment is needed for something like this, meaning UV sterilizers, protein skimmers, filters, return pumps, and anything else? <I would limit the use of UV here, but if it can be incorporated, add an Ozone generator...> To be honest this is so far over our heads that I'm not sure how we would be able to pull something like this off. <Mmm, keep gathering data...> How much would it cost to have you flown in and advise us as to what to do (I am joking, unless it's possible)? <Am sure there are folks able to help you locally... I'd have Jeff Turner on by... will BCC him here> I believe those are the main questions that we have for you at the moment. Once again I hope it was OK to email you direct. Thanks, Ryan Nienhuis. <No worries. Bob Fenner> Livestock Choices for Large Fish Only -- 05/03/07 Guys,
<Hello Adam...this is Adam with you this morning.> Right now in
my 240 g saltwater, I have 20 blue Chromis, 2 yellow tail damsels, a
dogface puffer, a Sweetlips, a lawnmower blenny and 4 large hermit
crabs. <So the puffer and the Sweetlips are either too small to eat
the damsels/Chromis or too slow.> I'd like to add an assortment
of angels, butterflyfish and tangs but want to add the right number and
right kinds so that the tank remains--it's doing great now--a
peaceful community. <Well; what specific animals out of the families
you mentioned are you interested in? Some angels, even in a tank of
this size, will not do well with co-geners or conspecifics; same with
the surgeons.> Also, if there other fish to recommend please do so.
<This is a matter of personal preference of course and I don't
know what your set-up is like. You have some compatibility
issues already...the puffer can/will become "nippy" as he
ages and if the Sweetlips lives to adulthood (most don't in
aquaria) he will eventually begin hunting your smaller specimens. So
before I recommend livestock choices, I'd like you to divulge a
little more on your preferences and what the direction of the tank
is.> Thanks, <Welcome.> Adam <Adam J.> Re: Stocking a 240g saltwater tank -- 5/4/07 Adam, <Adam.> Thanks for getting back to me. <No problem, anytime...usually I'm quicker.> The Sweetlips is about 7 inches long and I've had him for about a year. <Good, that's longer than most folks have them.> He loves feeder goldfish <Mmm...do read this; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/goldfshfd.htm .> but I mostly feed him frozen shrimp, squid, octopus, etc. <All good.> He's yet to chase the Chromis or damsels. <Interesting for him to recognize the goldfish as food yet not chase fish of similar size.> Dog face puffer is the same size and is slower than the Sweetlips but a bigger eater <As most puffers are.> --eats same food as above. <Cool.> So, I'd like to have as many angels/tangs/butterflyfish in the 240 g with as much color variation as possible. <As far as angels I'm a huge fan of Genicanthus angels; they are planktivores and they can be kept in harems (one male, multiple female groups). I'm also a fan of the three amigos (though only two are attainable really; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/pomacanthus/zonipectus.htm). As far as butterflies; a duo of Heniochus could suit you. Surgeons, well I'd stay away from most of those in the Acanthurus genus...they get pretty big, though a few may suit you, same goes for those in the Naso genus. Check out the Zebrasoma genus first. Much more detailed info is posted on WWM.> If moving the Sweetlips and/or puffer down the road is needed I do have room for another (4th) tank. <Awesome.> Right now I have a very peaceful 130g tank (5' x 30" tall x 18" deep) and an aggressive tank 6x2x18" that has a clown trigger, niger trigger, Foxface lo and snowflake eel. <The eel and the Foxface might actually be more suited to the peaceful tank; I'd consider swapping them out with the Sweetlips or the puffer...or even both.> Basically what I need to know is the exact different types of tangs that can live together (if introduced together) plus the same with butterflies and angels. <There's really no hard and true rules, too many variables among species and individuals for that matter. How about if you come up with a stocking list I'll look over it and/or modify it for you.> And also what's the most fish I can add at once to a 240g without upsetting any chemical/waste issues for the water. <Well obviously you need to quarantine them first, and it depends on the size temperament of the fish but generally I prefer no more than one or two at a time. Of course there are exceptions...likely with the surgeons/tangs if you choose to get more than one.> I care for the fish daily but I also have a pro come in twice a month for water changes, salinity checks etc. <Cool.> Also, I know these fish can be costly but give me advice as if cost were no object--I can always work down from there. <Use the WWM search engine on the home page and enter the animals I talked about above...there are pictures as well...see if you like any of those.> I appreciate your advice and really enjoy the site. Please let me know if there is anything else you need to know about my set-up that can help you in your counsel. From one Adam to another, APH <Adam J.> Moving BIG Tanks 5/3/07 Ok, now you can start a whole new section on your website for me.... "Moving Fishtanks 101". <Okay> So I've moved my 90 gallon tank several times, no problem there. How does one go about moving a 200gallon tank that is likely around 300# of glass? <More planning, friends...> I'm not sure if the movers will take it or will be equipped to take it. Ultimately, if the thing was dropped or damaged, I'd have a lot of critters homeless and would take about 8 weeks to get one built. <If you would rather... and have the money, there are likely aquarium service companies about that will move it all for you...> That aside... my real question is, if I clean out my ShopVac, get a new filtre... is there anything wrong with ShopVac'ing out my 200lbs of sand? <Nope... we/ our service co., used to use these... the "top" of the vac actually fits quite well on a regular "pickle bucket"...> I'm just thinking it's gonna be a real pain to get that tank sand free if I don't vacuum it out. Just rinse it really good when I go to put it back in? <Yes... Bob Fenner> David Brynlund Preparation, SW, large sys... still not ready 3/21/07 Hello all! I have emailed your site for over a month now. The advice I have received and the knowledge I have gained is immeasurable! Thank you. I will be setting up a 240g (96x24x24) in the near future. I am going to forgo the clown trigger due to what I have read on this site and references for other local fish store owners. I am deeply intrigued by the Hawaiian dragon eel. I have read up on it and asked several questions before. Thank you once again for your help. The Hawaiian dragon eel is going to be the center piece of my aquarium. As for the tank mates I would really appreciate your advice. I was thinking of adding a Pinktail trigger, Naso tang, emperor angel (I was told that the emperor angel will get to <too> big for the dimensions of this aquarium. <Yes> If so, what other large angel could suggest?) <Mmmm, for having the Moray as your center piece... none> and a volitans lionfish. For filtration I will be using a Euro-reef RC250 with and ozonizer. <Mmm... need more... biological, mechanical...> I will be employing a closed loop system for added water movement. As per Anthony Calfo's diagram. I will have two overflows and was wondering how to make it a closed loop with not being able to put PVC in front of the overflow? <Mmm... could loop around, truncate on either side, even drill through...> My questions are as follows. Are these fish compatible with the Hawaiian dragon eel? <All are potential prey> Is this too many fish for the system? <Mmm... not initially> If the fishes are not compatible, what fishes would you recommend? <Heeeee! You're not joking? To go with what? The Moray... see WWM re the "Compatibility" and "Systems" of what you list, are interested in...> Do I have adequate filtration and water movement? <No> I would really like a trigger and a lionfish but know that this may not be possible. Thank you once again for your patience and time. It is greatly appreciated! Brent <You're getting closer... but I'd still be reading, studying, dreaming and scheming at this planning stage. Bob Fenner>
Lifereef Skimmer, sel. period for a 600 gal. SW 2/27/07 Just one quick question today, I have had a 180 gallon for 6 months now. My skimmer is Lifereef VS3-30 powered by a Mag 12. I love my skimmer and everyone has their opinions on which is the best. The Lifereef is simple to use and keep tuned and pulls a full 1-2 cups of nog per week. Million dollar question: If you were going to set up a 600 gallon reef what skimmer would you use? <Mmm, either one or more Euro-Reef products, but would consider a Deltec...> I am thinking to just go with what I know and get a Lifereef VS3-72 (rated to 1500 gallons--I always double what its rated for) But there are so many custom and well known high dollar skimmer's out there that seem to work just as great. Deltec is seen many times on huge beautiful tanks. IMO the skimmer is the engine and I want to make sure there's not a diesel out there I would be more happy with even though my V6 is doing just fine. thanks Jeff <And am hoping still for the advent of RK2 hobbyist sized units... Bob Fenner> 600G In-Wall Plumbing Nightmare -- 02/22/07 I wanted to
bounce some ideas off of you guys, I'm open to about anything right
now <<Sure...bounce away...>> I own a small service
company, (we do custom installs as well) and we had a customer request
a tank re-haul. It is an older in wall tank that was set up
for fresh, and we would like to make it into a marine Fish Only
display. <<Ok>> It's a giant tank! <<Cool!...love
big tanks...have a 375g in-wall reef display myself>> It's
about a 600 gallon system, 10ft long x 4ft tall and about
24"-36" deep. <<Very nice>> It is an in-wall with
the two larger viewing panes visible and the left and right sides are
bricked in, so basically it's a transparent wall with the ends
bricked in. <<Same configuration as mine...>> It has six
bulkheads, ~ 1" each centered on the bottom glass every
2ft. Underneath the tank is cabinet space, but its cut up
into sections by vertical supports for the tank. <<Indeed...but
hopefully room for a sump?...refugium?>> I can get below the
house if need be to place equipment since its pier and beam. <<Ah
yes, my house has a crawl space as well...which is where I positioned
the chiller for my system>> But it would be very hard to fit a
sump of any real size in between the supports. <<Hmm, what is the
possibility of pulling/reinstalling this tank and building a redesigned
support stand to allow for the ancillary systems? I built my
stand to support the 375g display tank, and designed it to be open
enough to fit a 75g sump and a 55g refugium beneath the display>>
The current filter uses a cartridge filter and a large external pump.
<<Mmm...a possible maintenance nightmare...in my
opinion. Am sure you are aware some purposeful chemical
filtration (carbon/poly-Filter) and employment of a large fluidized-bed
filter or two will serve better here. The cartridge filter
could be left in place if desired but will require strict maintenance
on a weekly (or more often) basis>> The two outer (far left and
right) bulkheads had some kind of clear rigid pipe going towards the
surface (I believe they were return lines) and the remaining four had
strainers below the substrate <<...?!>> as intakes- (Could
be the other way around.). My idea was to plumb Durso
stand-pipes from the outer bulkheads and tuck the Dursos along the
glass on the far sides of the aquarium- (would 90 out of the bulkhead
to the left and right end of the tank then go up towards the surface).
<<The fewer turns the better here. Why not build
skimmer towers to house the stand-pipes and go straight
up? The skimmer boxes could then be camouflaged with live
rock>> Or I could just pop the drain and the return right above
the substrate and cover with rock. <<Mmm...this too could work
since you're not utilizing a sump and the drains will need to be
plumbed directly to a pump>> Then plumb in two large Eheim
Canister filters, and use the center as a circulation pump, the returns
would have check-valves and would rise just above the sand. <<I
wouldn't use the check-valves. Aside from the huge
amount of restriction from these valves that may damage the canister
filters...sooner or later they 'will' fail...though I suppose
this is a small concern really considering the drains will be plumbed
much like a closed-loop with a canister filter installed. (a
ball-valve to shut-off flow to facilitate maintenance of the canister
filters will be a necessity. But I still like the skimmer
tower if for no other reason than to 'skim' the
fats/proteins/colloids/et al that collect at the water/air interface on
the surface of the water) Heating this tank, I have no idea.
<<Look to the 'in-line' options available. As
implied, these heaters can be plumbed 'in-line' on the output
side of the canister filters>> Plumbing a protein skimmer? - I
have no idea. <<A dilemma indeed, in the absence of a
sump. Are the ends of the tank
accessible? Perhaps you could employ several of the largest
'quality' hang-on skimmers you can find (Deltec, AquaC)>>
The other options would be trying to plumb three sumps together to make
a large sump- but that may be too much of a headache than its worth, or
using a similar system, with an external pump and module filtration
like the cartridge filter that's there now. <<I would
drill/plumb together the three largest tanks that will fit beneath the
stand...if it were up to me... You really do need someplace
to install a skimmer (or 'skimmers'), and probably some
ancillary biological filtration. You wouldn't need to
use 'all' the drains to feed the sump and could still employ
direct-fed canister filters for chemical filtration, etc if you
wished. But if a sump is just not possible then perhaps as
you say, the modular filtration systems will have to do>> Any
fresh ideas would definitely help! <<Ahh...if only I could see
this arrangement firsthand>> Oh and by the way, big fan of all of
you guys, I've seen a few of you speak in Dallas, and Houston on a
few occasions- always learn so much. <<Bob has indeed assembled a
fine group of folks here>> Thanks, Jeff Morley <<Do keep
brainstorming this Jeff, and feel free to 'bounce' any further
thoughts/questions my way...am certain there is a reasonable
solution. Regards, Eric Russell>> Large SW Aquarium Stocking - 1/25/07 Mr. Fenner: <Hey Dennis, JustinN with you today.> I would very much like your input as to a salt water aquarium that I am setting up. <Ok> The dimensions are as follows: 6' long, 2' tall and 30" wide. <2 foot deep? I hope you've got some long arms, my friend! *grin*> I want to purchase a young salt water angelfish that will be the star attraction of the aquarium. <Ok> I want an angel fish that will be hardy, but the main thing is to have a personality much like a fresh water Oscar or a salt water bat fish. Would you please give me a list of some of the angels that are noted for their personality. <To my knowledge, all larger angelfish are noted for their personality. We cannot make this choice for you, Dennis, as it is not our aquarium. In an aquarium the size you describe, any aquarium-suitable species should do wonderfully. See here for more info on the species available: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/bestmarangs.htm and the files linked in blue above.> Also, there will be live rock in the aquarium. I would also like a school of Chromis, either the green or blue variety. I do not want to overstock the aquarium. <Not a whole lot of chance of that with your aquarium size, and current intended stocklist... you will do fine.> How many Chromis would you suggest? <7 to 9> And would you also give me a list of some other small fish that I could add to the aquarium that would be 4" and under. Many thanks for your help. Dennis. <The list of smaller fish here is innumerable, Dennis. We really cannot make the choices here for you, and all this information you request is available, both here at WetWebMedia, and at many other locations around the net. Perhaps a thorough browsing through our species selection sections is in your future? Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm and follow the indices to the information you seek. -JustinN> Shrimp as ray food, Oblivious questions re a large SW system 1/16/07 Hi I was wondering what kind of protein skimmer I should buy. I have a 150 gallon now with a carbon filter. Is a protein skimmer the same as a filter or do I need both? <Mmm... a skimmer is a type of (marine) filtration device... Most folks find other filtration necessary...> I am in the process of getting a 500 gallon tank. What is necessary to run such a marine tank? <?> Wet dry filter, Protein skimmers? Any other suggestions on product? <Yes... Please read... here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm Too much to relate... w/o knowing what you intend to keep, do what with...> One more question, is ghost shrimp a sufficient diet for my ray? <No> Should I be giving Vitamins if so which ones? <This and much more you need to know and will enjoy is posted/archived on our site... Please see WWM... learn to/use the indices, search tool...> If anyone is in desperate need I can ship ghost shrimp to picky eaters in need. I am fortunate enough to live on the bay!! Thanks Michelle <Ahh, thank you for this kind offer. Bob Fenner> Stocking a Large Marine Tank...Sequence of Introduction/Compatibility Issues -- 01/15/07 Dear distinguished Wet Web Media Crew: <<Greetings!>> Best wishes for a happy and prosperous New Year, <<Thank you...and may I wish you the same>> and thank you for the benefit of your experience and wisdom. <<Tis a pleasure to share>> My wife and I spent nearly a year reading the information on your site and in your books before purchasing a 70-gallon marine system some eight months ago. <<Most excellent to read this! I love it when budding (and not so budding) hobbyists take to heart our pleads to read/research/learn what they can; and yes, ask questions, 'beforehand' >> All is going very well with the tank, set up as follows: -oversized wet/dry filter with bio-balls -Euro-Reef RS 135 protein skimmer -Eheim 1262 recirculating pump -50 lbs. Fiji live rock, 25 lbs. coral skeletons -50 lbs. live sand -3 fish: Queen Angelfish (Holacanthus ciliaris), Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurus), Clown Trigger (Balistoides conspicillum) - now all 3"-4" <Mmm...you need a bigger tank mate>> When we purchased these fish, we did so with the understanding that a larger tank would be needed in the future. <<Sooner than later...>> Thus, we have purchased an 8 foot, 450 gallon tank. <<Ah! Outstanding!>> It will be recirculated by two Dolphin pumps at approximately 15x/hour, filtered through course, 100 micron and 50 micron filter pads, run through two protein skimmers with a combined capacity of 1,000 gallons and passed through Chemi-Pure before returning to the tank. <<This sounds very good...and hopefully your research has made you aware of the importance of cleaning those micron pads 'at least' weekly>> The tank will contain 3/4" live sand, 500 lbs. of live rock and 100 lbs. of coral skeletons. <<A word of caution/opinion here... Don't get caught up in the 'pounds per gallon' adage for including live rock. Instead, consider what you will need to provide an aesthetically pleasing display while also providing hiding/sleeping places for the fish but also leaving 'plenty of room' for the fish to swim/move about. Even in reef systems it is my opinion that hobbyists tend to cram way too much rock in to the tank...often fueled by the belief that 'more is better' or because someone told them they needed 'X' number of pounds per gallon of volume. I have found in my systems that I have been able to get by with as little as half, and even less, the 'recommended' quantity of live rock (most often pushed by those who 'sell' the rock) and still maintain adequate bio-filtration (which in your case, a FOWLR system, can be easily and effectively augmented through the use of supplemental fluidized-bed filtration). My suggestion to you would be to start with about half what you list of good quality porous live rock (do be cautious of dense/heavy limestone 'cultured' rock), and nix the coral skeletons altogether>> We would like to stock the tank in the following manner. Initially, one mated pair of Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus) and one Mappa Puffer (Arothron mappa) would go into the large tank (after cycling) in order to acclimate, grow and establish territories. <<I would add the clownfish last...due to the very reasons you state. Once these fish become established/grow large they can be surprisingly aggressive to the point of doing physical harm making it difficult to introduce more timid/gentle species later>> After several months, the three existing fish (angel, tang and trigger) would be added to the large tank to join the clownfish and puffer. <<A month between group additions should be sufficient>> Three additional fish, a Harlequin Tuskfish (Choerodon fasciata) , Red Sea Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus caeruleus) and a Sohal Tang (Acanthurus sohal) would be placed in the 70 gallon tank for 6-12 months before moving to the large system. <<I don't understand this...why not just place in the larger tank as acquired? Also worth mentioning in my opinion...despite their sometimes fierce appearance, the Tuskfish is relatively peaceful, sometimes even timid, (with regards to fishes...shrimp/crabs/snails are another matter) and should be one of the first fishes placed in this larger system>> No other fish are planned given the concern for bioload in the future, as the fish grow. <<Very good>> Your thoughts, comments and suggestions (e.g., alternate or additional species, equipment recommendations, husbandry ideas, etc.) will be greatly appreciated. <<Ah yes, one more thing... Do read up some more on the Clown Trigger. These fish are REAL BRUISERS...as this fish grows/matures it will very likely kill everything else in the tank along the way. A better/alternate species in my mind is one from the genus Rhinecanthus. Since you appear to have a penchant for Red Sea fishes, perhaps Rhinecanthus assasi would appeal to you>> Sincerely, Don and Jill <<Regards, Eric Russell>> Stocking/Compatibility, Lg. SW 12/18/06 Hi Crew, I'm saving up for a 265G tank and have developed my stocking 'wish' list. I wrote a few weeks back, but my wife has reviewed and thus the list has changed. <Heeee!> It will be a FOWLR with some ornamental shrimps. My concern lies with the compatibility of the angels below (2 pairs of the same genus) and whether the overall tank size for this list is appropriate. Are there any other concerns that you see with this? Scribbled Angel Chaetodontoplus duboulayi Blue Spotted Angelfish Chaetodontoplus caeruleopunctatus Flame Angel Centropyge loriculus Golden Pygmy Angel Centropyge aurantia Powder Blue Tang Acanthurus leucosternon Fridmani Pseudochromis (2)Pseudochromis fridmani Yellow Tang Zebrasoma flavescens Golden Butterfly Chaetodon semilarvatus False Percula Clownfish (2)Amphiprion ocellaris Helfrichi Firefish (2)Nemateleotris helfrichi Your thoughts/inputs are greatly appreciated! Thanks, Ian <In a tank this size... starting with "mid-size" or smaller individuals, you should be okay here. Once these fishes are grown a bit, established... it may prove difficult to introduce much in the way of others in their niches. Bob Fenner> New "Dream" System - 12/01/06 Hey crew, <<Hey Bob!>> I am in the midst of planning what I hope will be my ultimate dream system. <<Lucky you! Most hobbyists only ever get to dream about such things. I myself was lucky enough to install a 500g SPS in-wall system about three years ago>> My reason for writing in is that this is a sizable ($$$) undertaking and I don't want to make any serious mistakes. <<Indeed my friend...not including livestock, I have more than $25,000 invested (per my wife anyway)>> I am working with a custom tank builder who has made some recommendations for the system. I would like to get some second (or third) opinions embarking on this venture. <<Wise...the more the better>> Main display - 620-gallon acrylic tank 114x42x30 with integrated overflow on back wall. Display will be designed around SPS coral (primarily) and fish. <<I'm happy to see you are choosing a particular "genus" of coral to concentrate on, rather than going with the ubiquitous "mix reef" type of display...you will be more successful for it>> Aquascape will be constructed with both a reef face and back reef/lagoon area in hopes of encouraging more natural behaviors and growth patterns from the inverts and fish. <<Nice>> Filtration will be located in separate room with dedicated ventilation. <<Very smart...my system is built in to a wall, but I also installed an exhaust fan that has proven invaluable at removing moist/warm air from the space (assisted by 12v computer fans to keep things "moving")>> Skimmer - AquaC EV2000 <<A fine skimmer (met the company owner a couple weeks ago in HI)>> Calcium reactor - Korallin 4002 UV sterilizer - 120 watt Aqua UV <<This is unnecessary and even unwanted, in my opinion. Aside from the maintenance hassle to keep the unit efficient, it will destroy/reduce populations of beneficial micro-biota utilized (needed?) by the coral, et al>> 250-gallon sump with DSB and live rock. <<Excellent...but I would limit the amount of rock/keep much of the sand bed "exposed">> Sump has a lid, which will keep the DSB in near total darkness. <<Not necessary...but not a problem either>> This sump will feed all skimmers and other filtration hardware as well as provide location for GAC and other chemical media. <<All good>> 200-gallon raceway style refugium with zones for macroalgae, pod culture and frag grow out. <<Cool>> Circulation provided by two Dolphin Ampmaster 4000 feeding off of sumps at a total return rate of 6000 gallons/hour. <<Mmm...might do better to put one of these on a closed-loop...this is an awful lot of water to process/deal with going through a sump/overflows>> Closed-loop pump - Sequence Dart return line will be connected to an Oceans Motion 4-way device <<Very good...but do consider how you're going to get 6000 gph through that sump...efficiently. I doubt you will be able to speak above the ruckus it will make. And the overflows needed to handle such flow...mercy...>> Eductors to be installed on all return lines. Additional flow to be provided in display by a pair of Tunze Waveboxes. <<Neat!>> An Aquadyne controller will provide system monitoring and some automation. <<Automation is key on such large systems>> Here are my initial questions: Is 450 gallons of sump/refugium overkill for the display? <<Not at all, bigger the better. Many public aquariums utilize sumps/refugiums that are "larger" than the display to take advantage of the intrinsic values re>> Would the equipment sump/DSB work better if illuminated? <<Not necessary>> Should I plan on dosing with Kalkwasser as I begin to add SPS to the system (it appears from my research that many hobbyists do this and a calc reactor) <<Indeed (I do)...utilizing a Kalkwasser reactor may prove beneficial>> Is there anything in my initial filtration plan that causes concern? <<Just the amount of water you plan to process through the sump>> Obviously I will have lights, live rock, and other items, but this part is what has me scratching my head right now. <<Ok>> If I am successful with this set-up, I plan to expand into a coral grow-out area with additional capacity. <<I see>> I look forward to your thoughts. Bob McCook <<Do keep me posted on your progress. Regards, Eric Russell>> Equipment list for 500 gallon system 11/26/07 Hello, <Hey Kirk, JustinN with you this fine evening> And thank you for answering my question: <No problems, is what we exist (as a group of like-minded individuals, not as a personal crusade! *grin*) for> For my Xmas present this year, my wife has given me the OK to get a 450 (96x36x30) custom acrylic gallon tank for our new home. <Very nice! Quite an undertaking, and quite a woman for letting it happen. *grin*> The largest tank I have had to this point has been a 125gallon tank. I have been in the saltwater hobby for 8 years, but I must say this is an exciting but seemly overwhelming task. <Can be daunting> I know the choice of filtration, pumps, skimmers and crucial to the success of this project. <Absolutely> With that said, I would like to know what types of skimmers would you recommend for a tank of this size. I am going to have a mixture of fish (large angelfish, triggers (pink tail or Bluethroat), butterfly (Copperband), clowns, and possible a Naso tang) and corals (mostly being LFS and a clam or 2). I am NOT going to keep SPS corals. <Am sure you know this, but still feel I must mention that both the angels and the butterfly run a very high possibility of nipping both corals and clams to death.> Skimmers ------------ The research I have done so far has led me to the following skimmers: H&S Bubble King Deltec Klaes I would like to know if a EuroReef or ASM skimmers are a good choice for this large of a tank. Whatever skimmer I decide on, it needs to be a well design skimmer AND produces a sufficient amount of skimmate. <I believe any of these would be sufficient. Just to be safe, get a skimmer that is recommended for a tank larger than your overall water volume. That should give you the piece of mind you seek, regardless of manufacturer.> Filtration/Pumps ------------------- I am planning on a closed loop system, and for a pump choice it must be quiet and emit low heat. I was thinking about Dolphin AMP Master pumps, but some other reefers have mentioned larger Bluelines, but I do not know much about them. Can you offer any suggestions in this area? How much water flow (i.e., gph/hr) should I plan for?? <Alas, I have no experience with either pump, but going on what I've heard, I hear nothing but glowing praise for the Blueline line of pumps. Sequence pumps also seem to carry a similar reputation. Sorry I'm not of more assistance here.> Calcium Reactor ------------------ Is this a mandatory piece of equipment with a tank this size? If so, can you suggest some models for me to research. <I would not consider it mandatory, no, but it will simplify and automate that much more of your maintenance. Korallin, Knop and Tunze all make readily available calcium reactors.> Thanks for any advice you can give. Kirk <Well, wish I could say I had more specific recommendations for you, here, but I think you will do fine. Just read as much reviews of equipment as possible on online forums, talk to local reef clubs, and research before you purchase. Do keep us informed on this wonderful sounding project! -JustinN> Supplemental HQI Lighting On A 900 Gallon Tank 8/6/06 Salutations! <Hello Tim> I'm currently in the process of setting up a rather large aquarium, a 10' x 4' x 3' monster (3 feet deep). The tank is acrylic, and has 3 large 30" square cutouts on the top. My setup is as follows: 1) I live in Arizona in a house with a flat roof. 2) I installed 3 24" Solar tubes in the ceiling directly over the tank. The tubes extend down to about 18-24" off the top of the tank, and don't precisely line up with the cutouts. The two on the ends are slightly to the outer edge of the tank, and all three are more towards the back of the tank. (Joist placement issues) 3) The tank is in a dedicated room, (front of the tank is picture-frame style into the living room) so aesthetics of the fixtures is unimportant. 4) I plan to dedicate this tank primarily to shallow water SPS and clams. I suspect that the three solar tubes, while providing a huge amount of light and hopefully offsetting my electric bill, will not be enough light for this tank. I also think that for aesthetic reasons, I will need some blue or actinic lights to offset the natural sunlight coloring. Along those lines, my current thinking is to add three 20,000K 400W HQI MH fixtures to the tank. However, because of where the tubes are, these would be centered more towards the front 1.5 feet of the tank. I'm concerned that a lot of my light will go directly onto the sandbed and the living room out the front face. I was thinking perhaps I could angle the fixtures towards the rear of the tank, but I'm not sure if this will cause a high loss of light through reflection off the water surface. The other option would be to put 2 halides over the braces between the solar tubes, but I am concerned about the effect of the high intensity light being directed directly at an acrylic panel. I suspect I will end up mounting a fan on the wall blowing crosswise across the entire tank to keep the heat down. Also, the room is air-conditioned. So: What kind of supplemental lighting would you recommend for this setup? How would you position the lamps? Is a 400W HQI too much power? Maybe some other combination? I can always also run them for only a few hours each day to simulate a mid-day-sun. Any other thoughts on lighting this monster? <Tim, a few questions before I can proceed. First, is the tank currently set up and running? If so, are any SPS corals or clams in the system at present, and, how are they looking with just the solar tubes? James (Salty Dog)> Tim Water Changes...Natural Or Artificial Seawater 7/18/06 Hello, <Hello James> I am building a new tank with a volume of 1017 gallons <Yikes! I'm jealous.> not including displacement. I only have 12 fish totaling about 60 inches. This is a very under stocked tank. I will have aqua medic skimmers running as well. I was doing a 10% a week water change on my previous 300 gallon tank. Is 10% a week still necessary for the new tank with it being so under stocked? If not, what would you recommend? <With your present condition, 10% monthly would be fine.> My fish being happy is the number one thing for me. I like to check each fish and look after them, rather than having loads of fish that you don't get attached to as much. I want them to have loads of space. <That they will.> Also, most of the people here in Cape Town are using real sea water but I am still using salt/ro water mix. Does real sea water harm the system or is it safe enough to use?. <Not a good idea, read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seawater.htm> Kind Regards, <And to you. James (Salty Dog)> James. T5 Lighting 7/7/06 I am in the process of upgrading my 55G tank to a 140G tank. The 140G is a 30" high tank which I know is less than ideal but was the largest one I could fit into my space. I plan to keep some clams, soft corals, and a few stony corals (high up only). My question relates to the lighting. I have a T5 set up that has 3 80W bulbs and another in front that has 2 54W bulbs. At the moment I have 11K Aqua Blues in the 3 bulb and actinic bulbs in the 2. The lighting seems rather intense but one of my corals at the bottom of the tank is losing its color. Is there a problem with my lighting? <With this depth of water... likely so> Do you have any suggestions on bulb setups? Thanks for all your help. <For water depths over two feet, many "corals" "need" metal halide... Please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/T5fluorFAQs.htm and peruse the files linked above. Bob Fenner> - A Large Tank Inquiry 6/23/06 - Hello WWM Crew. First off I must say how much I appreciate such an incredible website from so many excellent aquarists, you have answered most of my questions, and helped me along with this wonderful hobby where information is sometimes scarce. I've had a 120G (48in x 24in x 24in) reef tank set up and running nicely for about a year now, and I've been researching/looking into setting up a larger predator type tank (220G 72in x 30in x 24in). I've had quite a few sources of information, but it seems difficult to find the exact answer to my question. The fish that I am interested in keeping in this tank are as follows: 1 Goldentail Moray (Gymnothorax miliaris) 1 Blue-ring Angelfish (Pomacanthus annularis) 1 Harlequin Tuskfish (Choerodon fasciatus) 1 Palette Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus) AND/OR 1 Naso Tang (Naso lituratus) 1 Clown Trigger (Balistoides conspicillum) 1 Picasso Trigger (Rhinecanthus aculeatus) 1 Porcupine Pufferfish (Diodon holocanthus) I am fully aware of the potential size of each and every on of these specimens, and I am open to any worries/suggestions/changes that you have to offer. <Really, my main concern would be the clown trigger. These fish often become absolute terrors as they get larger and could easily kill everyone in the tank. I'd drop this one fish off the list or consider keeping it by itself in the 120 if you're going to keep that tank running.> I'm much more accustom to working with smaller reef fish which are much cleaner eaters and much less vicious. If anyone could let me know if that list is too much for that size of tank, or if there is room for anything else, I would be very thankful. <These fish will fill this tank so I'd just remove the clown trigger from the list and go for it.> So I hope someone can give me some input, and help me in my decision. Thanks for your time. Alex C. <Cheers, J -- > The Best Vendor For Large Tanks - 05/09/06 Hi All, <<Hello!>> I'm planning to upgrade from a 90-gallon to a 270-gallon tank. I was thinking of an acrylic bow-front tank. Can you provide recommendations on qualify manufactures of such tanks? <<Several about, but you might get a broader perspective by polling one of the fish forums (RC, Reefs.org). For my money...Envision Acrylics (http://www.envisionacrylics.com/) enjoys a very good reputation...and my personal experience, Tenecor (http://www.tenecor.com/), provided excellent service and quality when I bought my current acrylic tank (375g)>> Thanks again for all of your prior help. Michael <<Regards, EricR>> DSB For A Large Tank - 04/09/06 Dear Bob, <<EricR here this morning...I think Bob is still asleep/recovering from his Lavaman ordeal <grin>.>> I currently have an 8ft tank and would like to add a deep sand bed to assist in denitrification and to provide more comfort for my stingray. <<A very good idea in my opinion. I too have a 8ft tank, with a 6" DSB...but no stingray (is a reef display).>> I have read the article on the website, and am aware that 3" depth is a minimum. <<Mmm...can depend on 'grain-size' of the substrate, with larger grain-sizes meaning deeper beds. But even when using sugar-fine sand my preference is for a 4-inch minimum.>> There is 40kg of fine coral sand, 12 kg of fine grade aragonite currently in the tank which makes up an average depth of between 1-2 inches. I will create the DSB by adding sugar fine sand, although I would like your opinion as to how deep I should go? <<Were it me, with this mix of sand, I would shoot for an absolute minimum depth of 4 inches...even 5 or 6 inches if your not opposed to the look/loss of depth to the open water column. I know that bigger tanks require deeper sand beds. <<Not sure I agree with this. All things equal, the sand bed will be proportionately larger in the larger tank. As far as I'm concerned, 'minimum' bed depths would apply equally to all tank sizes.>> Current inhabitants included a small masked-stingray, 3 snowflakes. <<Sounds like a very nice display. This ray (Dasyatis kuhlii) seems to be one of the better choices for aquariums (not to be confused with Taeniura lymna...another/different 'blue-spotted' ray with a very poor survival record) and will definitely appreciate a 'fine' sand bed.>> Also, I have attached a spare 10g tank as a refugium (which I know is small, but at least it puts the tank to good use) and would also like to know if creating a deep sand bed in there, without having a DSB in the main display, would have any sort of effect on denitrification? <<Probably not a noticeable effect...considering the size/stock list of the display. I think putting the DSB in the display is your best option.>> I'm just trying to get my head around the proportionate area of DSB and its correlation to the degree of denitrification. <<Please have a look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm >> Thanks in advance, Joe <<Quite welcome. Regards, EricR>> Hybrid marine system, set-up 4/6/06 Hi, <Hello> I am setting up a 300 gallon reef tank with 80 gallon mud sump. The main reef tank will house mainly SPS and live rock roughly 200kg of live rock. I was also planning to run a deep sand bed in the show tank as I am trying to get the maximum diversity of microfauna to help feed my Anthias and other difficult to keep species. <Can be done, though I am a much bigger fan of having such culture, DSB areas outside main displays (in sumps, refugiums) for ease of manipulation and looks> My plan was to place the live rock on the bare base of the tank and build up 6in of 0.2-0.05mm sand round the rocks. Does this sound ok? <Sure> Also would it be a bad idea to place some coral on top of the sand bed or would this prevent oxygen transfusion and cause dead spots. <Always a risk, consideration. The placing of anything on a substrate affects, changes the path of water circulation above and (profoundly) below/within the substrate. Good to move periodically... like every month or two> My water flow will be 20x volume of the tank per hour with adequate lighting for the SPS and calcium reactor and Kalk stirrer to maintain calcium levels. thanks James <Sounds/reads thus far. Bob Fenner> Skimmer help sel. 2/2/06 Dear crew, <Robert> I am currently under way with an expansion of my existing 300 gallon reef to a new 560 gallon reef with 200 gallon refugium and 300 gallons of grow out for frags. <Some project now!> I have looked at a number of large skimmers and am concerned about the mega pumps required to properly run a unit such as an Aqua C EV2000. I have been reading Anthony Calfo's book on coral propagation and he discusses venturi style countercurrent skimmers as a viable option. <Don't be thrown by such descriptive terms... there are very junky Venturi types, Countercurrents...> What I can't figure out is how many units (linked in series) would I need, and how much flow would be required to skim the 1100 gallons or so in my total system? Power consumption is a big problem out here in California and I am trying to find a balance between the necessary equipment, and the high cost of electricity. <I would look to the fine folks at EuroReef here... or Deltec... even RK2... an investment, but worthwhile. Thanks, Bob McCook Question about bottom drilled 300 gal Tank... pump, filtration options 1/18/06 First of all thanks for all your help and tremendous site.. <Welcome> Then as always compliments are followed by questions :-) Details... I have a 300 Gal 96L x 30H x 24W tank. The tank is drilled with 2 bottom drains that go into an Ocean Clear 325 with Iwaki Walchem WMD-40RLT-T115 and an overflow into a 60 Gal Sump with Live Rock and DSB with a Little Giant Model 4MDQX-SC as my return.. <Are these pumps still around?> Questions: What do you think of both pumps? <I would switch out the Little Giant, keep it around for back-up> Are they big enough for their duty? <Mmm, no... the Iwaki is likely fine, about all you can do linked up with an ever-clogging particulate filter, but I would switch the second out for better service factor (heat, flow, energy consumption)...> Would you keep the bottom drains? <Mmm, a tough one... as opposed to what? If it were my choice, and day one, I would not drill the bottom, but the side instead... If the bottom holes can be fitted with "riser/towers" such that the water overflows to a sump... that in turn there's room for...I would do this, and rig another "pressurized manifold" independently to remove, return water either through the back or over the top> If so, what do you think of the Canister filter? <Not much... a pain in the keester to maintain, a source of nitrate, bunk in terms of flow... expensive to operate... in terms of what it does. I do hope you have multiple sets of cartridges> In your book you state that these are a haven for waste and buildup... <Oh! I still think so> Thanks again for all your help and love of the hobby!!!! Rick <It is obvious, eh? Do take a read on WWM re Pump Selection. Bob Fenner> "BassPro" size/type marine system 1/16/06 Hello Bob My name is Seena from Canada, I worked in an aquarium store for about a year and now I work at BassPro and in that store we have a 24000 gallon freshwater water tank with large/small mouth bass, pikes etc..... <Yes. Am familiar... have been in the original shop in FLA> and I think a 12000 gallon trout stream. The 24000gallon take I believe has a concert shell with a large acrylic wall and two other small ones one the other side, my question is, would I able to build something like that but in saltwater. Would the concert be safe for the fish? <Yes> And how out I heat this thing? <Very important question... as this, along with pumping, will cost a great deal... I would look into more passive means... solar, orientation of the building... as well as "heat pumps"...> And one last question, for filtration could I use Large sand filters? because that is that we have at the BassPro. <You could... though filled with other media... I would definitely "draw all this up on paper" ahead of actual buying of gear... Unless you are wealthy, or have some capacity as your employer to offset expense, this project may be too expensive to keep running, let alone set-up. Bob Fenner> Thanks you for your help Sincerely Seena Planning A New (Large) Tank - 01/02/06 Hello crew and happy New Year! <<Hello and Happy New Year to you!>> As always, I offer my great appreciation for your site and your assistance. Thanks to you I have had much success with my current 225 gallon reef tank. <<Excellent to hear.>> I am about to begin a remodeling effort for my house and will be moving the tank to a new location, giving me an opportunity to go even larger and fix some of the things I don't like in the current tank. <<Larger eh...sweet!>> I would love your input on the initial design decisions (and will no doubt come back with more questions if that is okay). <<You bet>> The new space is going to allow for an 8' x 3' x 3' tank (about 540 gallons). I might be able to push it to 4 feet deep, but haven't decided. <<Do it if you can afford/accommodate...you'll regret it forever if you don't. But then, it's easy for me to spend your money <grin>.>> My current tank is acrylic with deep sand bed and I have put numerous scratches in it, <<Same here>> particularly when cleaning close to the sand bed. <<Yep...a necessary evil.>> Since I want to continue with the sand, I want to have a glass front. <<And back/sides/bottom I hope.>> I read recently that the low iron glass tends to be more prone to scratching, have you found that to be true? <<No personal experience with this, but have heard same as you.>> Would you recommend using low iron or not? <<If it were me...I would go with the low-iron glass.>> I would be interested in getting a composite tank with fiberglass (or some other material?) sides for all but the viewing pane. Do you know of any fabricator for tanks of this nature? <<I don't...and I tend to think it would be safer to have an all-glass tank rather than trying to seal/adhere dissimilar materials.>> I have attempted to create a biotope tank as described by Tullock in his Natural Reef Aquariums book. I probably have not gone far enough in this direction, choosing animals from the indo-pacific lagoon biotope he describes (giving me the most flexibility and variety of species). <<Mmm, not so much the biotope that provides/limits flexibility as the fact the animals will be kept in a small (by comparison) closed system. Best to focus on a single species within the niche for optimum results.>> I mostly keep LPS corals with a few soft corals mixed in. I will be keeping the same arrangement in the new tank. Can you give some suggestions for lighting on the new tank? My preference is metal halide...more bang for the buck with a more natural appearance in my opinion. Likely 150w (10K) pendants will be more than adequate for the species you plan.>> I currently have 2 pendant MH bulbs on about a 6 hour (midday) photoperiod and 3 VHO bulbs on about a 12 hour photoperiod. <<I would increase the MH to 10-12 hours.>> I like the concept of the Outer Orbit lighting systems but I don't think they make any setups that will provide enough light for my new tank. <<I don't think so either, you'll probably be best served by using single pendants on this tank that can be positioned/spaced as necessary.>> I also worry about having my VHOs and halides built into the same system meaning I would have to replace both if the controller for one failed. I also don't need to worry about finishes on the lights as the tank will be built into the wall in a dedicated fish room. <<Then look in to "retro" kits to save a buck.>> I know that the recommended amount of water flow has increased substantially since I built the last tank. My guess is that the new recommendations of 20 times tank volume applies more for SPS than LPS and soft corals. Would you agree? <<Not necessarily, all will benefit from vigorous water flow.>> What would you think would be an appropriate amount of flow and how would you go about producing it? <<A MINIMUM of 10x tank volume in a random/turbulent fashion. The larger Tunze Stream pumps will work well for this size tank. Or you can fashion a closed-loop system if you wish to keep equipment out of the tank.>> The largest LPS I have now are a variety of Euphyllia, a Bubble, a Pearl, and several Favia. Finally (sorry for the length of the post), <<No worries mate.>> do you have an opinion of the work of GEO ( http://www.geosreef.com). I have seen other large tanks built with his equipment and am considering ordering his kalkstirrer, calcium reactor, and protein skimmer. <<Again no personal experience, but have heard good things from others re. Try hitting the BB's (RC/Reefs.org) to see what those who have the equipment say about it.>> Thank you for all of your help and recommendations! Your site has long been a favorite of mine and I spread the word whenever possible. Larry <<You're welcome Larry. Regards, EricR>> Filtration system 11/28/05 I was wondering if you could give me some advice of some filtration systems. My wife and I are having a 600 gallon tank built for our new house. We are setting it up marine with the intentions of keeping a small shark (Banded Cat Shark) along some other fish. I am not a beginner in the marine aquarium field but am a bit confused as to the different filtration systems I can use. I've heard of wet/dry, fluidized bed filters, skimmers, etc. If I use a wet/dry system, is a fluidized filter an option or is that over kill? <You can use a wet/dry system which would work well but wet/dries large enough for that tank usually aren't available over the counter. Would probably have to be special ordered.> What would a good system include? <For a non-live rock system I would go with a Pentair system (formally Lifeguard). Their triple mechanical and chemical modules can be configured to meet the demands of your system. They also make a fluidized bed module in three different sizes that can be used with the system. If using live rock, I'd go with a wet/dry filter and a 6000 gph pump. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks for the help! <You're welcome> Big plans 11/2/05 I was just hoping for some quick criticisms
on my plans for my 600g tank. It's big (obviously) kinda clunky
shaped (90x32x48), <Mmm, would limit the height myself... trade off
for more width if you'd like... easier to work on/in, keep clean,
cheaper to build...> has a built in overflow/filter in the back left
corner, I'm guessing probably 75 gallons or so. <The size of the
filter?> The back and left sides have black backgrounds. Already
drilled it has four holes in the bottom, two on the left side, and one
on the bottom of the overflow. <Going to be noisy>
The tank came with two Little Giants, I plan to plumb two closed loops
with those pumps, draining from the side where the holes are and each
one pump returning to two of the holes in the bottom. Currently I am
having a custom stand made that will be able to hold an extremely large
refugium above the tank. <You must have very high ceilings!> The
stand which is already partially made, and partially in progress is
12" off the floor holding the main tank, <Unusual...> and
the top frame will sit 16" taller than the main tank where I will
be able to mount lights. The refugium which is still in design I was
planning to have the same footprint as the tank, be perhaps 16"
tall or so. Oddly enough, and unsurprising to you I'm sure, the
cost/effectiveness of the fuge is offering me some very interesting
choices. It's significantly cheaper for me to get a 96x24x24 tank
than it would be for me to get a 90x24x16 or a 90x32x16 <Oh, yes>
which is what I would like ideally. Silly customizations just
rack right up regardless of actual gallonage. I'm sort of inclined
to get the standard 240 just because it's cheaper, but I'm not
sure how I'll feel about that decision once all's said and
done. I feel like I'm sort of cheating your time by asking this
sort of question, because it's mostly aesthetic (and I apologize
:) <No worries... though I have no "fashion sense"
to speak of, I do have opinions re the looks of captive aquatic
systems> - but do you think it would look "off" to have
the fuge that is sitting directly above the main system, and really a
display unto itself, to be 3" longer on each side than the main
tank? <Mmm, not really... though the main tank being so low to
the ground is going to generate comments> And do you think it will
be noticeable that it's 6" shorter front do back? <Nope>
And do you think that at that volume of water it is "worth"
taking the extra 6" of height just because I can for a few extra
pennies even though I don't necessarily need the extra height for
this particular function? <Not in my opinion> It's really
nothing at cost, and adds about 100g with that footprint. Either
way...the refugium will drain directly into the tank, and depending on
what I decide to do be either pumped directly out of the overflow, or a
sump if I decide that I need one. My vision for the refugium is really
more of a fishless reef...in my mind's eye there are corals and
algae and all varieties of invertebrate life living as harmoniously as
critters that would eat each other if they were truly hungry can
live, <Heeeee!> and the 600 with be more along the lines of
a FOWLR, putting in whatever noxious lower light corals I can possibly
pull off. For the main tank, I have been planning on doing one closed
loop in addition to the two coming out the bottom, and due to recent
marveling at several other tanks with killer water flow have considered
a fourth. I was eyeballing the Dolphin AquaSea that cranks 6000gph, and
just drilling straight into the back - 8 outlets - each outlet with a
LocLine T - so 16 outlets for that loop. This coupled with the two
loops out the bottom would give me ~8500 gph which is pretty
respectable for fish only system. My thought is that once this baby is
filled, there's going to be no regrets, because there'll be no
way to change anything. So I've been considering drilling,
plumbing, and closing off 8 more outlets on the left side so that
should I have the need and finances provide... I could simply buy
another pump and stick it on there. Overkill? <Mmm, in my view,
yes... better to limit such plumbing, pump systems to no more than
two> Or am I still underkilling? Next thought is the sump - I
don't really want one but I'm feeling like I might need one. I
want to have an auto-top off system, which is easy to rig in a sump.
Can one be practically installed in either the fuge or main... both of
which will have overflows? <Yes> Aside from that, the only other
reason I can think to have a sump is to have a place the skimmer -
of which I'm looking at the largest AquaC model. That issue
is fairly easily remedied by spending an extra grand or so and getting
a EuroReef, which I can just plumb obviously. Any other suggestions...
or any other reasons I might truly need or want a sump? <Mmm, nice
place to add heaters, new water...> Another issue I've run into
(mentally) with that is that I have never seen a non-gravity fed sump,
which...with the bottom of the tank only 1' off of the ground would
be kind of tricky (say impossible?) <Just more limited/limiting>
to do. The sump would be to the side, and I was thinking if I valved
off the bulkhead at the bottom of the overflow and installed another
bulkhead maybe halfway up coming out the side I could just run the
overflow halfway full all the time? <Yes> I think those are
most of my plumbing concerns... but the questions are gonna keep
rolling for a minute or two. The tank is acrylic, and the stand is
steel. If the stand is reinforced with 3" steel beams front to
back every 2 feet, is it still critical that the tank sits on a
completely flat surface such as plywood? <The wood will rot...
best to have as planar, level as possible w/o> Is that something
worth contacting a tank manufacturer about? The inside of the tank is
also in need of some buffing/minor scratch removal. Any suggestions
about where to get a hold of I'd guess almost bulk quantities of
high quality super fine grit sandpaper? <... I'd sub this
job/material search out... take a look on the Net re...> It's a
massive project, and planning it has been a blast, but overwhelming. I
appreciate your thoughts and time as always! Scott <If
it's not too late, I'd make a plywood "model" of the
tank, stand, refugium... and place it where you're thinking all
this is going to go... I do hope the arrangement doesn't appear
(too) odd. Bob Fenner> Sand in large setup 10/18/05 Crew- <Craig> Quick
question. What type of commercially available sand would be acceptable
to use for the deeper portion of the DSB? I am not sure I like the
projected cost of putting an all aragonite 6" DSB in a 220 gallon
tank. Ouch! Is there a cheaper silica free alternative to aragonite
that I could likely find in bulk? How many inches of a DSB bed could be
of the cheaper variety and how much should be the aragonite? Please let
me know of any other details to be aware of for such a proposed DSB. If
there are FAQ's that already address this, please point me that
way. As always, thank you for your time. <Craig, here is a
link to FAQ's concerning your question.
http://www.google.com/custom?q=south+down+sand&sa=Google+Search&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com
James (Salty Dog)> |
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