FAQs on Magnificent/Ritteri Anemone
Environmental Health/Disease
(Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...)
FAQs on: Magnificent Anemone Disease 1,
FAQs on Magnificent Anemone Disease by Category:
Diagnosing,
Nutritional,
Social (Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest,
Treatments
Related Articles:
Magnificent Anemones,
Bubble
Tip Anemones, Anemones,
Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed
Anemones,
Related FAQs: Magnificent
Anemones, Magnificent Anemone
Identification, Magnificent
Anemone Behavior, Magnificent
Anemone Compatibility, Magnificent Anemone Selection, Magnificent Anemone Systems, Magnificent Anemone Feeding, Magnificent Anemone
Reproduction/Propagation,
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... Need: NO3, HPO4... bright light, vigorous
circulation, lack of DOC, and a dearth of other Cnidarian presence
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New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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Magnificent Anemones. Using WWM - 1/25/13
Hi Crew,
<Aaron>
I recently purchased an anemone which is creamy coloured with whiter
tips.
<Very badly bleached... complete loss of Zooxanthellae... can
reincorporate>
It is not that large about 12-14cms across. My two Ocellaris clowns
which have been without an anemone for seven months ignored it for the
first day but on the second day were both in it and never really leave
it, only for food. I wondered if they need to secrete more mucus over
their bodies before they can go inside one having been without an
anemone for so long.
<Sometimes communication takes a while. Sometimes it never occurs>
This is great as it give me so much pleasure to see them rubbing their
bellies on the tentacles. This leads me to believe that clownfish should
only really be kept with the appropriate anemone as I don't think they
will be complete without one. I have dived all over the worked and never
seen a clownfish in the sea without an anemone.
<They (Amphiprionines) always live in mutual symbiosis w/ one of a few
species of Actinarians>
I have a couple of questions, all may water params are good
except......my phosphates were about 0.3 so I have added Seachem's
Phosguard in a pouch which I hope will reduce the phosphate to
negligible levels within 2-3 days.
<I wouldn't do this... see WWM re>
How sensitive are they to Phosphates?
<Not very... and do need soluble HPO4>
Also my temperature is a little high, I live in the tropics and my
chiller is set for 30C Why 30C well with the aircon on during the day it
hardly has to reduce the temperature, lower temps and it is on much more
often and makes a noise and uses about 1amp. The anemone looks in good
order, but when I drop New Life Spectrum small pellets on it it does not
seem to respond.
<Needs meatier fare>
I noticed the anemone is sticky but looking at your site where I saw
"There are no naturally white-colored Magnificent Anemones...
<This is correct. Do occur in quite a few other colors though>
and it's rare for ones that are badly bleached to recover" do
you think it could be another species or is it doomed?
<Most likely the latter, but is also likely Heteractis magnifica... see
WWM re ID... the petechia on the column, its color>
Should I try another food?
<... yes>
I placed it about 15 cm.s below the water level between two rocks and it
has not moved in four days so I hope it is happy. It looks great. Please
find a picture attached. It is very close to a Goniopora, if they touch
will either be hurt?
<Oh yes. Bob Fenner, out diving in the Philippines>
Thank you in advance, Adam.
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Re: Magnificent Anemones.
Bob, Wow enjoy the diving, so you think it can regenerate Zooxanthellae and
should live?
<Yes; didn't I already state this? Can, not should. B>
Re: Magnificent Anemones.
Yes but opposite to what I captioned and sent to you from your site, perhaps
new info. Please update to avoid confusion. So the purple base will return
with green tentacles?
<... not necessarily these colours and not w/o good care... Please read
where you've been referred to... B>
Re: Magnificent Anemones.
- 1/25/13
Hi Crew, I have a system with some delicate fish, Majestic Angel etc two
pieces of Goniopora and I added the Magnificent anemone
<? Angels eat anemones>
only a week ago and it died today.
<... very typical>
My params are all good, slight phosphate 0.05, Nitrate a little high at 10,
the fish and the Goniopora are all fine. The temperature could be a problem
running between 30 and 31. The anemone was bleached but as previously
discussed this should not be an issue.
<? Of course it is>
Do you think it is possible it was already "dead" but did not show signs
or are they that sensitive to temp. I am upset as my Nemos loved it. Any
advice would be great I have read they are very difficult to keep. Regards,
Adam.
<Am done telling you to read on WWM. Go elsewhere. B>
Re: Magnificent Anemones.
- 1/25/13
How rude as clearly mentioned previously I had read part of your site and it
conflicts what you now say in regards to bleaching. Also in regards to your
suggestion that the Magnificent Anemone needs Phosphates that are detectable
I find that hard to believe as I live by the Indian Ocean where the
Phosphate reading is Zero.
<...> |
Heteractis Magnifica Anemone - Care and Medication Question
11/5/12
Hello! And thank you for your time.
<Welcome Brad>
First, some background. My tank is a 210g with a 40g sump. It has been
running and healthy for just over 14 months. I myself have been in the
hobby for almost 4 years. In that time I have taken a strong liking to
anemones, and have had a great amount of success with them as a result
of learning from sites like yours. In my current setup I have many
corals, fish, and anemones that are all living peacefully due to careful
placement and purchasing.
<Okay! Am sure you know of the dangers of mixing Actinarians, and doing
so w/ other Cnidarian groups>
Five months ago I purchased a Magnifica anemone at a LFS. It did not
immediately take to my system due to a low alkalinity, but was recovered
and settled after about 2 weeks once I fixed that. About four months
ago, I added a second Magnifica from the same LFS. This one never had
any trouble, but for a few weeks fought with the old one for his spot
and finally won. The first one moved to a different spot and settled a
little higher, closer to the lights. Fast forward to 3 weeks ago. I sold
the first Magnifica to a fellow reefer, and it is doing well. I did this
to make room for a new Magnifica of a more preferred color, which I
purchased from a reputable online seller. My question is in regard to
this "third" magnifica.
<All right>
For the first 2 weeks it did well, and ate every other day with no
issue.
About a week ago it suddenly spit out it's meal after dark on feeding
day, and ever since then it has deflated and inflated repeatedly in a
cycle of about every 8-12 hours.
<Mmm, doesn't like something here>
It does not appear to be timed to the light cycle at all. When it is
inflated, the mouth does not completely close, and when it deflates, it
has a badly gaped mouth.
<Also "bad signs">
I have heard some people suggest
that it may be trying to fight a bacterial infection. What are your
thoughts on my situation?
<Far more likely something, someone else in this system it doesn't
"like">
The first Magnifica is still well, as is the second one, which is in the
same tank, under the same light and flow as the new one. I have also
done 3 water changes this week, as well as change out
the carbon. All of my parameters are good (SG is 1.025, no PO4 or NO3,
<Mmm, photosynthates need some (measurable) phosphate and nitrate...
sigh>
Alk is 11, pH is 8.0). I am considering transferring the sick anemone to
a QT and treating it,
<Just moving it will likely help>
but I would like to know what you can share regarding treating these
anemones. I have heard suggestions of using Tetracycline,
Doxycycline, and Cyprofloxacin, with Cipro supposedly showing the best
results, but no studies have been done that I know of. Any input would
be appreciated.
Thanks again!
Brad
<I don't suggest exposing this anemone to an anti-microbial. Not of much
probable value, and considerable potential downside. Bob Fenner>
Sick Ritteri... many issues... A jokester?
12/27/08 Hello, We have had a Ritteri for about 15yrs. We had
him in a 50 gallon tank for many of those years, along with the rest of
our reef inhabitants. At one point several years ago we remodeled our
room and we changed to a 75 gal. tank. For a year or so all was fine
and then we had a water problem of some sort and he started shriveling
up so we tried to fix the water problem and put in Nitrate sponges and
phosphate sponges, we made sure our sump was working properly, and that
our protein skimmer was working properly...Everyone else in the tank
was very happy except him... In an last ditch effort to save him we put
him in our 15 gallon show tank [taller than most 15 gal tanks]. We
have
mushrooms and polyps on rocks <Not likely compatible with the
Magnificent anemone> in there and they are doing beautifully. He
attached himself and for the last several years along with "Coral
and Marlin" the two clown fish that have been with him since we
got them, They have been happy. About a month or two ago we started
having a green water problem and the Ritteri is shriveling up and
closing up, and spitting out his stomach, and is almost flat.... we
have taken every test available to us. Salinity is 23, <Mmm, better
to be near seawater strength/concentration: 1.025> Nitrate was 0,
<Is an essential nutrient> Phosphate was less than 0.05 ,
Hardness [which is too hard] 14... the Calcium is 540 <... Way too
high... and your Magnesium?> .....We did an almost 90 % water
change. We used the Reef water since it has no issues...about 60% of
the tank, 10 gals or so. and the rest, new salt water from our barrel.
but the Ritteri wouldn't perk up. Our little tank is green again,
and we have ordered Algone for the tank but it hasn't arrived yet.
<I would not use an Algicide...> So we put the Ritteri in the
reef on the bottom...... We are watching him , he is stuck to the
bottom , but he's spitting up all this fluffy looking stuff and all
his tentacles are laying like a flat mum (the flower)... <Bad>
but he does not smell and none of the cleaning crew are trying to eat
him...What do we do? Thank you so much, Susan and Bobert Arnett
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner.
Failing Ritteri Anemone, Heteractis magnifica --
1/18/08 Crew, <Hello Craig, Brenda here!> Some background
info about my situation: I have a 92 corner bow front and a 40G
sump that was moved in October, originally set up last July. I
moved 30 miles and switched from using tap water to RO water at
that time, since my local water didn't want to mix with salt or
Kalk very easily. The 92 that was set up back in July was filled
with sand, rock, and livestock from a 54 corner bow front that had
been set up for 2 years. The 54 and 92 housed the same mix of
corals and fish until recently, when I sold my Ritteri and pair of perculas. <Anemones should never be kept in a system using tap
water.> The tank has the following mix of species, and this mix
has remained relatively unchanged for about 12 months, other than
switching out one Ritteri for two new ones and two Perculas for
three Ocellaris. <How long ago were the new anemones added? Why
is the water cloudy looking? Did you replace the sand bed, or rinse
it?> It is important to remember these animals have always been
in the tank with my old Ritteri and now with my new Ritteri as
well. <The old anemone made the move with the tank?> I know
how Bob expounds without end the risks of keeping a mixed reef, but
all my animals are no less than 6" away from one another and I
have not had problems with chemical aggression. <Unfortunately,
chemical warfare is not always visible until late stages. I agree
with Bob on this. Do you run fresh carbon in your reef tank? How
often are you replacing it?> * Two Ritteri anemones * LPS - 10
head green branching hammer, 2 head yellow frogspawn * SPS - 6
4-6" Acro, Monti, and Staghorn * Clavularia - Daisy, Star
polyps, and 2-3 other types I can't ID......prolific on my
rock, covering all told 30-40 square inches * Pipe organ - 6"
* Various Ricordea - 10-12 Actinodiscus, which are not
"hairy" or "knobby" * Juvenile Emperor
(3") when he gets bigger so will his accommodations * Black
Ocellaris - three that are 2-3" * Longnose Hawkfish - 3"
* Snails, crabs, what not cleaners The salinity was usually kept
around 1.028-29 with the old Ritteri, which was high, but the old
Ritteri definitely preferred these higher salinity ranges by
demonstrating positive behavior (not moving, remaining inflated) so
I let the livestock dictate the parameters and not the books and
instruments. Now I have two new Ritteri, an additional one was
given to me since an extra one was shipped in my order.
<Shipping anemones is also very stressful on anemones. This is
no doubt adding to the poor health of the anemone.> For the
first month I only had the first anemone, but after the LFS
couldn't sell and couldn't provide enough light, it came
home with me. Given these anemones are often found in huge
associations in the wild, is it a problem to keep more than one in
my tank for now (yes, a fraction of the water volume...but they are
only about 6-8" inflated)? <It can cause problems.> The
LFS kept the anemones at 1.025 and the anemones seemed more
inflated there than in my tank, but that would be a very imprecise
appraisal. It is worth noting the LFS had dozens of 20G tanks
plumbed together with zooanthids, tons of Ricordea, polyps, and all
manner of actinarians: BTAs, LTAs, Condys, Sebaes, etc. <Ouch!
This is definitely not the best environment.> Here is the issue:
as you can see, both anemones don't seem to want to fully
inflate. 1/4 of the tentacles somewhere on the anemones are
deflated at seemingly all times. So I know that all animals within
a species are individuals and behave uniquely, and also these new
Ritteri are likely from a different location, since they have a
purple mesentery and my old Ritteri had a yellow body and thus they
could be from the Red Sea and prefer higher SG (like my old
Ritteri). Even when I had only the one newer anemone I noted this
behavior, so the presence of the second anemone is out of the
question (they are also about 3 feet apart). The deflated areas
change throughout the day, so tissue damage is out of the question.
Both anemones have eaten under my care (they both prefer only
tilapia...same as my old Ritteri) so failure to feed is out. They
are under 400W of halides at 14000K, and do not move around (which
of course is atypical for this species). I have a Hydor 3
circulation pump (1200gph), two Rio 1200 with rotating deflectors
(600gph) and a Mag 24 return pump with central diffuser (~1800gph)
so I don't think a lack of circulation is an issue. <It
doesn't sound like it. However, if you don't protect the
intakes of those pumps soon, you may have a bigger problem if your
anemone decides to roam.> I have even tried turning down/off
some of the pumps in case too much circulation was an issue (though
I have heard Bob admonish this is almost never possible with
non-laminar currents). I do run an Octopus NW200 skimmer for tanks
up to 200G. Nitrate is around 5-10ppm. <It needs to be zero.><<No!>>
Nitrite is 0, ammonia is 0, and phosphate is 0. Salinity is 1.027.
Temperature is 80F. pH is 8.2. Basically, all the parameters are
the same as they were with the old anemone, but these anemones do
not seem to be altogether comfortable. <The anemones are also a
bit bleached.> I have experienced in the past when an anemone
remains less than fully inflated for extended periods of time, it
is not long for this world. I know reef animals need stability more
than anything else, so if I am going to change one thing (other
than livestock, which is the last resort) it is going to be the
specific gravity of the tank. Being osmotic conformers, can anyone
verify my hunches regarding the osmoregulation feedback loop of
anemones? So if the SG in the surrounding water is lower than what
the anemone wants, would it deflate to attempt to raise the
concentration of salts within its tissues? Or is it the opposite?
Do anemones have some sort of mechanical automatic response when SG
is changed? <Anemones don't do well with abrupt changes.
Anemones do deflate to exchange water, and to expel waste. However,
I do not believe the anemone is deflating because of a salinity
issue.> I have observed changes in inflation whether increasing
or decreasing SG by .001 over the course of an hour (always keeping
it between 1.025-1.029). <A range of 1.025 -- 1.029 is much too
large. When you increase or decrease by .001 over an hour, what you
are seeing is the anemone acclimate it self to the change in
chemistry.> Then they seem to go back to their initial state of
inflation. I don't want to play guessing games with the SG of
the tank and end up killing the anemone, so before I take the step
of removing all other inverts, could you give me some perspective
on how to feel about this lack of inflation? I understand it's
a common problem people experience when new to keeping anemones,
but I have been at this a while and the answer evades me. I have
attached three photos (glass is a little foggy...water is clear).
<Good!> There is one of each anemone and one photo of the
setup as whole, for you to see the spacing of the animals. Sorry
for the marathon email, you guys <and Gals> are the ONLY
reason I have had ANY success in this hobby. <Glad you find us
helpful.> You are also the ONLY reason I have such an
appreciation for these animals and their natural environs.
<Craig, I believe you have a couple of things going on that are
causing the poor health of the anemones. First, the tank was moved
in October, this is too new of a set up for anemones. I'm a bit
confused on how this transfer was done. Did you replace the sand
bed, or rinse? Anemones need established environments. I'm not
seeing an established sand bed. Second, both of your anemones have
likely recently been shipped, and likely both recently collected
before they were shipped. Wild collection and shipping is
incredibly stressful and many times deadly to anemones. Your
fluctuating of salinity is also not doing the anemones any favors.
I typically recommend 1.026 for anemones. This species is known to
do well in captivity at this level. However, I would not say that
1.027 is necessarily bad for this creature. Stability plays an
important role here. The mix of corals you have could also be
harming the anemone. Running fresh carbon may help this issue.>
Regards,
Craig
<Hope this helps! Brenda> |
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Anemone problem I have looked at a very large amount of
anemone websites on the internet and I believe that you site is ranked
as one of the most informative in my opinion. <thank you... as
it is intended. I for one feel that most anemones should not be
collected and that most aquarists should not buy/keep them. We could
talk for hours about the reasons why. Simply know that for starters
that they are likely doomed to fail (assuming you can even get a
healthy undamaged one) if they are not kept in a species tank: no other
cnidarians! No coral and no other anemones> I have kept many
anemones with not much luck. They just all seem to slowly die. I hate
that. <don't keep buying them my friend> I currently
had a big beautiful ritteri anemone. <perhaps the most
difficult of them all. They need full reef lighting... more than most
coral. How many aquarists are willing to spend $1000 on a hefty halide
lighting system just to keep a single anemone. This... most climb the
walls starving for light and die without it or get torn/killed in a
pump or overflow intake in their search. Tragic> It seems to be big
in the morning but as the day progresses it just seems to get much
smaller and tentacles begin to deflate. It has plenty of light
<250-400 watt metal halides?> and a moderate amount of water
movement. <very strong water movement needed here too> The
thing with all my anemones is when the begin to die, they look like
they begin to expel some sort of a smoky substance. Can you tell me
what that is? <one possibility is the expulsion of zooxanthellae under duress> And is there anything I can do to help
my anemone? <natural sunlight supplemented with big halides, no
unguarded pump intakes, heavy feedings of micro sized ocean meats,
weekly water changes... essentially a species tank> thanks, Chris
<best regards, Anthony>
Ritteri Anemone 5/21/04 Hello Anthony <cheers Drew>
Recently bought a nice Ritteri Anemone from my LFS and was wondering
about some strange things its does, <this is such a beautiful
anemone, but one of the most challenging cnidarians (among all corals
and anemones) to keep in captivity. They require an extraordinary
amount of light (halides ideally over 5 watts per gallon) and powerful
water flow with target feedings several times weekly (finely minced
meats only... no nig chunks) in a species specific tank (no other
cnidarians). Most become a statistic within a year, sad to say. Please
do take this advice to heart. I hope this works out for you!> every
night and hour before the lights go out it will lean almost lay down
into the current? seems odd to me but I can not find anything on habits
of an anemone other then they will wander. <yikes... there is lots
of info abroad (mostly negative) on the keeping of this anemone. Dig
deeper my friend> tonight he was leaning over and just fell off the
rock? SPG is 1.0235 ph is 8.3 - 8.4 temp is 78 water flow is approx
1300 GPH 90 Gallon aquarium. for lighting I just installed prior to
buying him, 4 VHO bulbs all are 110 watts 2 Super actinic 2 Aquasun.
<the water flow is good.... but the lighting is not even close to
par. The actinics are just for aesthetics and offer little to no help
here (I still like them too though <G>). In essence, you have 220
watts (just over 2 watts per gallon) to keep this anemone with only two
white bulbs... and worse still.... its VHO which is very attractive in
my opinion, but only penetrates weakly into the water column. Unless
the anemone sits in the top 8-10" of the surface, It is not
getting enough light to even survive the next couple of months. My
advice is to switch to four 7k - 10k K bulbs and force the anemone to
stay near the surface (top 10"), unless a halide fixture is a
possibility> also like to mention that two True Perculas have taken
to him only a few days after he was put in the tank. During the day he
seems fine he is on a high point where he will receive lots of light
and current but on a separate pile from the main rock work to deter
wandering. sorry for the lengthy email just thought to pass on info I
thought that may help. Thanks. Drew <no worries... you are on the
right track. I wish you the best of luck!> ps. plan on buying your
book I found an autographed copy at my LFS and will be picking it up
shortly. <ah, thanks kindly :) Anthony>
Ritteri shock? Hello Crew, <Graham at your service.>
Sent an email about my ritteri falling off his rock, but received no
response. one thing i did notice though is its every night when i shut
off the lights it falls off and rolls across the bottom of the tank, I
have left it and it looks most unhappy so i always put it back on its
rock where it seems fine till the next night. <It's completely
normal.> Guess my question is, will the sudden change in light cause
my ritteri to release from his rock thus being blown off from the
current? <No. As you probably know, anemones have no central brain
-- thus why they cannot adapt to a certain environment. If your
aquarium isn't fitting the exact needs the anemone would encounter
in the wild, the anemone will move to find a suitable location. This
move is commonly done during the night. With that said, leave your
anemone and let it roam around the tank where it wants -- just make
sure it cannot be sucked into a powerhead or filter.> if so what can
i do to prevent this with having to spend extra money for a dimmer.
<See above.> am running a icecap 660 with 4 110 Watt VHO lights 2
super actinic to Aquasun. Thanks as always <Good luck! The Ritteri
is a very difficult anemone to successfully keep. It's important to
maintain excellent water quality and give the anemone ample amounts of
lighting. You may also want to feed the anemone foods such as krill,
squid, silversides, lancefish, etc. 3x weekly to give the anemone added
nutrition. Take Care, Graham!> Drew
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