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FAQs on Filtering Planted Tanks
Related Articles:
Filtering Freshwater Planted Aquariums,
Related FAQs:
An EcoSystem Hang On Refugium filter unit for
freshwater/plant tanks, stocked with Water Sprite. |
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Converting to a planted tank - shutting off the under gravel filter
9/13/08
so i have this 55 gallon tank that I've been given charge of. it's been going
for about 7 years. no plants, weak light. I'm putting in our budget next year
money to up grade the lighting and put some plants in (and some more fish whee).
<Okay. If you're serious about plants, do spend the $ (or £, or whatever) on a
good aquarium plants book -- money well spent. While lots of plants look
similar, some do better in certain types of tank than others, and knowing which
species to order online if your pet store doesn't have them makes a huge
difference.>>
I've been reading all over on how to do a planted tank right, but converting a
non planted to planted with my substrate I'm still not sure on. i currently have
what i suppose could be called "generic aquarium gravel" in there. the pieces
being .2 to 1 cm in size i guess. and an under gravel filter going on.
<The substrate will need an upgrade of some sort, perhaps the addition of
aquarium/pond soil or some laterite.>
i understand a finer substrate is in order for a planted aquarium. but then, i
don't exactly want to redo the entire eco system...so my thinking is that i will
take about half the current gravel out and replace with something finer,
probably some made for plants branded substrate on top of what i have now and
let it over time mix up. Ok?
<Here's my advice for cheap and effective plant growth. Grab a bag of pond soil.
It's sometimes called "aquatic soil" and you can get it at garden centres. It's
essentially nitrate-free soil. The lack of nitrate means the water won't become
polluted and your tank won't be overrun with algae. But being soil, it has lots
of iron, copper, and all the other things plants like. Here's in England it's
very cheap, a mere fraction the cost of Eco substrates, and easily 90% as good.
If I recall, a 20 kilo bag (around 40 lb) costs under £5 (about $8). Put a 2-4
cm/1-1.5 inch layer of this into the bottom of the tank, and mix with some
silica sand (again, "smooth silica sand" is widely sold in garden centres and
costs even less than the soil). Fine pea gravel works just as well as sand, so
choose whichever you like. Put a gravel tidy on top of this to keep it all in
place, and then cover with gravel or silica sand as preferred. With the gravel
tidy in place the fish can't expose the soil and make a mess, but the plants
will send their roots into the stuff quite happily. It's a bit messy when you
set the tank up, but after the filter is running a few days the tank will be
spotless. Add your plants whenever you want, and off you go. A great aquatic
plant substrate on a shoe-string budget! Works for me!>
The real worry i have and my question is this undergravel filter. what happens
when i shut it off?
<Nothing much. The bacteria will die off course, but that's no big deal. Remove
the gravel and the UG filter plate, clean up any nastiness (there won't be much,
honestly) and then add your soil/sand mix on top.>
I'm not wanting to dig into the nasty underneath it and pull it out. I hope just
to pull out the upshoot tubes and leave the thing in there.
<I wouldn't do this for lots of reasons. The main is that a dead "pocket" of
water is not what you want in an aquarium. It's also a waste of space. Just pull
the darn thing out... you're going to have to do this anyway for the plants.>
My hope is that all the detritus that's been sucked down inside it and to the
bottom level of the gravel will just wait and become nutrients for the plants
once the roots get down that far. But that will take some time.
<No, doesn't work that way. Trust me on this: you're saving ten minutes of work,
but creating a huge disappointment in terms of how your plants will prosper.
Plants need very specific things to thrive. Do also remember the alternatives:
floating plants and epiphytes (species that grow attached to wood) don't need a
substrate, and are JUST FINE with undergravel filters. You can create an amazing
tank using just those kinds of plants. Anubias, Java fern, Bolbitis fern, Java
moss, Riccia, Salvinia, Ceratopteris, Limnobium... just a few plants that would
work in this kind of tank. Floating plants have roots that grow downwards, and
epiphytes can be positioned at any level you want. With some care, you can
create stunning displays with plants at every level.>
what do i have to worry about for the water of the aquarium when that stuff in
the under gravel filter gets used to not having water pass through it?
<Don't do it this way. Not worth it. Cheers, Neale.>
29G planted tank, aeration,
stkg... 8/22/07
Hello. I have acquired a great deal of information from your website over
the past few years, and would first like to thank you all for the amount of work
you put into enlightening the masses. As your time is precious, I will try to
keep this short and to the point.
<Appreciate this>
I currently have, among other tanks, a 29 gallon planted aquarium with a pair of
1.5" Corydoras trilineatus catfish and one golden angel. The tank was cycled
before any creatures were added, and the water quality (with routine water
changes) has tested with flying colors. The plants are java ferns (4), water
wisteria (7), and moneywort (5). Without any injected CO2, aside from the
fishes' respiration, the plants are growing well. I currently use an airstone at
night when the plants are sucking up the oxygen instead of producing it,
<Good technique>
but I wonder if leaving it off during the day is jeopardizing the fish.
<Mmm, doubtful>
Should I keep the airstone running at all times, or would that drive out too
much of the CO2, and
stunt/kill the plants that I feel are so beautifully balancing my ecosystem?
<Perhaps try this and see... there are folks who in recent times have poo-pooed
the idea of CO2 being driven off thus...>
Secondly, I've been adding fish slowly, and I wonder if I can or even should add
any other fish.
<The Angel may go after most anything new...>
The three fish get along very well. The two cories are inseparable, and swim all
over the place. The angel swims around like he owns the place,
<Does>
practically eats from my hand, and will also nibble at the sinking wafers right
alongside the cories without any chasing or harassing. I am content with just
letting this tank grow and flourish without adding any other life forms, but I
am wondering if keeping only 2 cories is keeping them from the schooling on
which they thrive, and if my angel gets lonely, as hard as that is to type,
haha.
<Does not get lonely I assure you... You are its company>
I apologize if this email seems like I'm fretting without cause, but I truly
love all of the fish I keep, and want to make their lives as pleasurable as they
make mine. Thanks again! Thomas
<Ahhh! Perhaps another Corydoras or two of the same species... they may spawn...
Bob Fenner>
Air Stones and Live Plants 8/1/07
I have thoroughly enjoyed spending some time with your
website for the past several hours! Great stuff. I am getting
back into the aquarist hobby after taking a 17 year hiatus! I am
re-starting my 38 gallon tall aquarium set up with a Magnum 200
canister (still going strong). I would love to have live plants
in the tank, but the last time (read 17 years ago), I remember
having what I thought were circulation issues due to the depth
of the tank. My LFS recommended a large air stone to help
circulate the water. Now I read some of the FAQs and aeration
doesn't seem to be a recommended practice for planted tanks. I
would love your recommendation. I enjoy the serenity of some
bubbles in a tank, so can I get away with some, but not a large
stone?
<Greetings. The deal with airstones, and indeed any form of
turbulence in a planted aquarium, is that the splashing causes
carbon dioxide (CO2) to leave the water. Since plants need this
CO2 to thrive, when this is lost from the water, plant growth
slows. In fact, serious plant growers use devices to *add* CO2
to the water and take care not to have any splashing that will
cause the CO2 to be lost. To improve circulation, these tanks
usually rely on pumps that move water about with the use the air
bubbles. Any decent canister filter should provide enough
circulation, but additional powerheads can be added if required.
Regardless, in planted tanks, it is normal to *understock* the
aquarium anyway, so water current is less critical than in a
heavily stocked community tank. Bottom line: aim for good plant
growth, or go for water with bubbles, but you can't really have
both. Cheers, Neale>
What filter media to load into two canister filters in a planted tropical
tank. 5/15/07
Hi, I have settled on buying a 42" x 18" W x 24" H tank that will be freshwater
and well planted.
<Sounds nice. By my estimate, that's 297 litres.>
For filtration I like the idea of combining heating with filtration and I though
I might go with an Eheim 2324 Thermo Filter canister. I thought the 500l per
hour filtration rate a bit low though so if I added a 2213 Classic, I'd have a
combined rate of filtration of 890 litres /hour - or so the online store site I
use tells me.
<Yes and no. The estimates given to canister filters are optimal, and assume the
filter is [a] empty and [b] place alongside, NOT below, the filter. As soon as
[a] you put filter media in that flow drops, and [b] when you put it *under* the
tank it drops further because the pump must now work against gravity ("head
pressure"). Realistically, downgrade the quoted turnover by 25%. Anyone who's
used a canister filter for long will notice turnover declining over time, as the
filter clogs up. Mine probably get down to about 50% estimated turnover before I
get round to cleaning them! Anyway, assuming you're keeping only small tropical
fish like neons and danios, you'll need not less than 4x the turnover of the
tank for optimal water quality. For a 300 litre tank, less 15% for the
substrate, that's about 250 litres of water in the tank which means you need
about 1000 litres per hour filtration. So your 890 litres per hour total using
the "best possible" estimates from the manufacturers is somewhat less than idea.
If you can, round up to around 1200 litres per hour filtration.>
The Classic looks a simple thing with no inbuilt filter trays and difficult to
prime so maybe I could use that as a 'pure' biological filter just filled with
ceramic 'hoops' or similar and clean it (or rather carefully rinse half of it)
with tank water not so often?? but how often??
<My father used a very similar filter on his reef tank. These are good, durable
filters with very little to go wrong. In freshwater aquaria, a simple combo of
filter floss and ceramic media (in a media bag) works extremely well. Filter
floss will be useful in a planted tank because it catches the inevitable silt
from the substrate and decaying leaves. Otherwise, this silt clogs the ceramic
media, reducing biological filtration. So I recommend this combo highly. As for
cleaning the filter, less is more. Canister filters devoted to biological
filtration work best the less they are fussed about with. I know experienced,
highly successful aquarists who clean them literally once a year. I'm not quite
so hard-core as this, but still, it's something to be done every 2-3 months
rather than any more often. Your own mileage will vary, but to some extent the
mantra is clean the filter when water flow drops below some threshold value. You
certainly shouldn't need to do this more than once a month. If you do, it's
likely because the filter is overwhelmed -- the more filters a tank has, the
less maintenance it needs.>
I thought perhaps some coarse to fine mechanical media in the thermo filter with
maybe some activated carbon in a bag as it has trays so I could keep things easy
to wash (in tank water)?
<Bin the carbon. Useless in your aquarium. Carbon exists solely to remove
dissolved organic materials. In the properly managed freshwater aquarium where
you're doing 25-50% water changes weekly, the level of dissolved organics should
be at or close to zero. Biological and mechanical media are all you really
need.>
I'm not keen on water treating chemical filter media as I'll use a 50/50 mix of
R/O water and tap water to keep nitrates going into the tank at 15ppm, hardness
moderate and pH at 7-7.5. I'll pre-treat for chloramines of course and add plant
food.
<Whilst I like using soft water in aquaria (I use rainwater, a cheap, green
alterative to RO water) do factor in the cost/benefit ratio carefully. RO water
is expensive to produce, and because of this people tend to "ration" it over
time. Your fish and plants would prefer 50% weekly water changes of regular tap
water over 20% weekly water changes of RO water. Most freshwater fish and plants
generally adapt extremely well to hard, alkaline water, whereas old, stagnant
water does indeed cause harm over time.>
But what coarse to fine media and how often do I wash it??
<Doesn't matter. Use whatever suits your budget. The "deluxe" ceramic media like
Siporax and Eheim's own media are excellent, but plain filter floss works fine
as a sediment trap (perhaps better than anything else). Sponges are also
excellent performers and very good value, lasting for many years.>
And as I'd have the 'biological' canister could I not give the thermo filter a
really good cleaning every water change?
<Both filters need to have some mechanical filtration to keep the biological
filter media from being clogged. Hence both will need the mechanical filter
media cleared out or replaced periodically. So treat them as equals rather than
trying to force one to be a biological filter and the other a mechanical filter.
The water won't work this way, so neither should you.>
Oh and would it be suitable for an intake pipe that draws some surface water in?
I don't like to see any 'scum' on the surface.
<I believe Eheim and perhaps others make devices (Eheim call their a Surface
Extractor) that do exactly this. Your retailer should be able to help. This
said, in a planted aquarium, removing overgrowth, hair algae, and dead leaves at
the surface is a weekly job.>
As for returning water back to the tank what are your thoughts on spay bars vs.
returning it below the surface?
<Splashing at the surface is important for maximizing the surface area and so
allowing oxygen into the water and CO2 out. HOWEVER, in a planted tank, you
don't want to drive off CO2, and more than likely you will using a CO2
fertilization system to deliberately add CO2 to the water. So you probably want
to avoid too much turbulence at the top of the tank.>
I intend to draw water into the filters at one end (front and back corners) and
return at the other.
<Sounds fine, but be prepared to move things about. Adding a small internal
filter in a "dead" corner can also be very useful, even if the amount of
filtration it provides is trivial.>
Your helpful thoughts as ever welcome.
Thanks, Charlie
<No problems. Good luck, Neale>
Re: What filter media to load into two canister filters in a planted
tropical tank. 5/15/07
Hi. Thank you for your comments - most helpful.
<Cool.>
My reason for using some R/O water is that our tapwater has nitrates of 30+ppm
and I was hoping to reduce it to 15ppm by mixing 50% R/O with tapwater for each
change. That would also reduce the hardness as it is very hard alkaline stuff
from the tap here.
<30 ppm nitrate levels aren't bad for a freshwater aquarium at all. If you have
a light loading of fish and lots of rapid plant growth, you should be fine even
without RO water. As for the hardness, neutral, moderately hard water is,
admittedly, optimal for many fish. But if you have hard, alkaline water, then
one option is to concentrate on plants and fish that appreciate such conditions.
Many plants thrive in hard water using the carbonate as a carbon source for
photosynthesis, and among the fishes that prefer such conditions are
livebearers, halfbeaks, rainbowfish and various other atherinids, and of course
lots of cichlids. Even some tetras and barbs do well in such conditions, the
x-ray tetra (Pristella maxillaris) doing well at up to pH 8, hardness 35 dH in
the wild! It even lives in slightly brackish water. So the idea you have to go
for soft, acid water for tropical fish is very wrong. In fact, one benefit of
hard water is the breathtaking stability in terms of pH changes. If you ever
keep a really soft water aquarium, monitoring the pH at least weekly can become
a real chore.>
The waste R/O will go for watering - although would it be suitable for a pond at
all? I appreciate it would be mineral rich stuff though...
<It's fine in the garden, assuming you have lime-loving plants. Obviously
acid-loving things like heathers and azaleas aren't so keen on waste RO water.
As for the pond, up to a point you could put some in there, as goldfish
especially like quite hard, slightly alkaline water. But you would still want to
maintain a pH of 7.5, no higher, and a hardness at or below 20 dH. So I'd be
tempted to use waste water in the pond only sparingly. Cheers, Neale>
Planted Discus Tank... filtration/circulation 12/12/06
Hi Crew!
<Mike>
I'm in the process of setting up a moderately planted 100 gallon discus tank.
<Some fun!>
About the last bit of research I need to complete before adding water has to do
with filtration.
I'm planning on using canister filters for filtration, but am not quite sure how
to balance the discus' preference for reasonably calm waters with their
filtration needs and the plants needs for some current to facilitate biological
processes.
<Easy to do... using the spray bars for the returns... near the surface is
best... at one end or both>
My original thought was to use two Eheim Professional II, model 2126. They are
rated at 250 gallons/hour for a combined total of 500 gallons/hour.
<I have two of these fine filters>
Couple of questions:
What is a reasonable water turnover rate given my somewhat contradictory
considerations?
<This, these will be fine... not as vigorous a movement per unit time as you
might think, consider>
Assuming no additional sources of current in the tank, would the two Eheims be
too much? Too little?
<IMO/E right about right>
I really want to get this right from the onset and appreciate your assistance.
Happy Holidays,
Mike
<And to you and yours. At the near-surface for the discharges... Bob Fenner>
Re: Planted Tank Question... chem. filtrant use 12/18/06
Hi Bob, Thanks for the quick reply. When you mentioned not using PhosPure
pads or 'other chemical filtrants', does that included plain activated carbon,
carbon pads, and/or ammonia removing resins? If so, how come? Or am I reading
too much into your comment? Thanks again, Kerry
<Sorry for this confusion... After I had just sent your response I had
misgivings re this issue. I would actually use (periodically... perhaps
replacing monthly) a bit of activated carbon (just not other more-specific
contactors) in your filter flow path. The bogwood you mention in particular will
tend to discolor your water... and the carbon will handily solve this. Bob
Fenner>
Protein skimmer in freshwater planted aquarium
<<Tom here, Dan.>>
As previously stated, I have converted a 75 gal. saltwater to a freshwater
setup. Per your advice, I will remove the bio-balls from the sump, and plan to
add live plants to the aquarium after that.
<<Sounds good…>>
One more question--Would the protein skimmer provide any benefit or useful
purpose in this set-up?
<<Not really. Not to say it won’t work at all but it won’t work nearly
as effectively in freshwater as it does in saltwater. Not to “belabor” the
issue but it’s a good question and one that’s asked from time to time. Proteins
(dissolved organics) have a high affinity for air. Left unchecked, these form a
scummy/soapy film on the water’s surface. Yucky/smelly stuff. The skimmer
produces air bubbles in a “contact chamber” to which the proteins attach
themselves, rise to the surface and remain as a foam in a collection
cup/container. The quantity of foam collected is dependent on three factors: the
amount of dissolved organics in the water, the overall “air surface” of the
bubbles and time of contact between the organics and bubbles (air surface). It’s
the second of these that’s the “tail that wags the dog”, so to speak. Since
saltwater has more “surface tension” than freshwater, the bubbles created – by
whatever method the skimmer employs – will be much smaller than those created in
freshwater. Small bubbles yield a much greater air surface by volume than large
bubbles and, therefore, will attract more of the organics. Small bubbles also
rise less quickly than large bubbles allowing for more “contact time”. All that
said, aren’t there companies that manufacture skimmers designed to work in
freshwater? Certainly (if you’ve got the money), but it’s a fair bet that the
one you already have isn’t one of these. Okay, so what if it doesn’t work as
well? Wouldn’t it still be a good idea to use one? Well, let’s consider
economics here. I can change out a lot of water in my freshwater tanks very
inexpensively compared to what it costs to power a protein skimmer 24 hours per
day. (Saltwater’s far more expensive to replace, however, which makes a skimmer
in a marine tank a cost-effective piece of equipment.) It’s really your call
here, Dan, but good filtration and regular water changes are a more effective,
and cheaper, method of keeping water quality high in your application.>>
Thank You.
<<Not a problem and thanks for letting me “ramble”. Tom>>
Two questions: Planted tank lighting, filter choice 8/6/06
Good evening!
<Yawnnnn! AM now>
I loooove your site and have been on it for the last 3 hours reading and trying
to learn. I have done searches within the FAQ's and forums. I have learned alot,
<... no such word>
but unfortunately I am a person who has a very difficult time understanding
information.
<?>
I have read and re-read many articles and forums. I also realize the two
questions I have are ones that can take paragraphs to answer but hopefully I can
cover enough in my question to need only minimal answers.
I currently have a 3 month old 50 acrylic planted tank with 10 cardinal tetras,
4 glowlight tetras, two Cory cats, 5 japonica shrimp, 3 featherfin rainbows and
two Oto cats. My plants are doing fine and are sprouting out new growth right
and left - even little roots from the leaves. I have primarily Java ferns,
Swords, Vals and Sagittaria, but have two bunch plants: Hornwort and Fanwort. I
have Eco Complete substrate mixed with gravel. I also have several pieces of
driftwood which gives that water a pale amber colour. I do 10 - 20% water
changes every other week.
My water is good: 0 nitrite, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrate, ph 7.4. temp 76. I am using a
small pump on the bottom of the tank to circulate water and have an Eheim 2215
as the main filter. There are still small particulates in the water.
<Yes... will be so till the driftwood completely dissolves or is removed>
I do not have a CO2 system in place. The lighting was heavily pushed/recommended
to me by my LFS: one Coralife strip with 2 ESU Reptile Desert 7% UVB F18 T5 BP
bulbs and a second light strip with 1@10000K, F20 T12 BP bulb.
<Interesting. Should work>
Here are my questions:
Is my lighting sufficient for a planted tank?
<Mmm... yes... though, could be improved>
LFS trying to convince me to buy a VHO light strip with bulbs. I cannot quite
remember, but there are four bulbs altogether (two pairs) and the bulbs seem to
be attached to each other. Each pair of bulbs has a white bulb and a blue bulb.
There are two little fans on the lighting strip.
<Mmm... you don't need the "blue bulbs"...>
I am adding another filter to work alongside the 2215: either an Eheim 2026 or
2028. Which would be better?
<The larger...>
I can't thank you enough for any help you can provide. Your site is fantastic
and I really appreciate the fact that you guys maintain not only the site, but
still have time to answer questions.
Thank you in advance and I certainly understand if you receive too many
questions to respond.
Sincerely,
Beverley
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/lightingags.htm
and the linked files above. Perhaps writing down what you consider pertinent
facts one by one... a technique I developed to help me concentrate/focus, and
remember. Bob Fenner>
Air pumps, aerating planted tanks - 05/13/2006
I was reading in a book and it said that keeping air pumps on during the day
is not really a good idea... if you have plants.
<Can be detrimental... as this "drives out" Carbon dioxide, adds oxygen...>
It did not really give a reason but it said that since photosynthesis stops
during the night hours,
<Actually... the dark reaction/s of photosynthesis occur during non-lighted
periods...>
and everything in the tank gives off carbon dioxide, that it is a good idea to
have an air pump / air stone running at night. Should I leave air running all
day or do what the book suggests.
Thank You
<I would likely leave all running continuously... much more to this "story" then
stated here... likely other factors are much more important to your overall
plant growth, health... Too much chance, possibility of trouble with leaving
gear off... Bob Fenner>
Discussing Discus issues 04/17/2006
Hi there!
<Howdy>
I have been planning a planted discus aquarium for the last 6
months and have done all the reading and watching I believe I can.
<Heee!>
I have drawn sketches in order to aquascape the tank with plants so as not
to mess around with anything once I place them in there.
<Good technique>
I'm at the stage now where I have a few unanswered questions:
Is it necessary to have extra aeration in the tank or is the plants
sufficient?
<Mmm, well, necessary to have sufficient circulation to provide for gas
exchange, oxygen solubility... day and especially night... can be provided
in other ways than with "bubblers" though>
What plants can you suggest for a 250L tank?
<Posted on WWM>
How many discus should i have?
<Also posted>
I want to have a lot of variety and colour, so what discus will give me
this?
In other words what collection of discus will give me colour and coexist
happily?
<... not a matter, issue of this>
I am planning to house the discus with a ghost knife, 3 Corydoras cats, 3
Bristlenose cats, 2 dwarf cichlids. are these okay??
<Depending on species... yes>
I am hoping you have time to assist me and thank you so very much
Jarryd. P.S your website is great!!!)
<Thank you. Enjoy using it a bit more. Bob Fenner>
Carbon and Plants 11/30/05
Love the Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Do you think that the addition of
activated carbon to a planted fresh water tank, that I routinely add
fertilizer to, will remove the fertilizer needed by my plants?
John
<Yes, and will quickly become inactive carbon as it does. Unless you are
trying to remove a known chemical contamination I would not add extra
carbon. Don>
Carbon and plant fertilizer products 7/17/05
Hello and thanks for all your help in the past. Quick question. Will I
remove carbon from my filter if I am using Plant Gro.
<Yes>
I say yes, the aquarium staff at local store say no. Which is it? Can't find
anything regarding instructions or anywhere on the
net......................Regards Craig P.
<Carbon of any quality, freshness will remove some of the fertilizer. Bob
Fenner>
Planted tank sump 7/10/05
I have searched this and related questions on your site. Good stuff, you
guys and gals are a wonderful resource. I hope to contribute shortly on setting
up a large planted tank. But first need to call on some vast experience. This
is of course where you all can help please.
<Will try>
I am in the process of setting up the following planted Arowana tank and need
some advice. I have been to the Arowana forums and want to hear from US
aquarium enthusiasts now.
84 x 36 x 30 acrylic tank drilled with two 1" supply and 1-1/2" returns,
potential for reef later.
<Okay>
DIY welded tube steel stand 2x2 - 1/4" - plenty of support and room underneath
<Need it...>
100 gallon acrylic sump tank - not drilled yet (hence the following questions)
96watts x 6 CP Florescent under DIY custom hood
<That is firmly attached... jumpers>
with fans and timers
4" Seachem Fluorite substrate
350 watt Dupla undergravel cable heater, transformer, controller.
CO2 system with regulator, computer, and 1000 Aquamedic CO2 canister.
3/4 hp flow through style chiller
40RXL Iwaki pump
Eheim 2080 canister - The new one that just came out 450gph. 2260 in reserve
Planning a Arowana and other small species oto's and tetras in a heavily
landscaped and driftwooded tank.
<Mmm, the Arowana will likely eat a bunch of the smaller fishes>
There is a water softener / carbon filter on the city supply into the house, but
I can get source water before the filters.
I think the Eheim will handle the fish load mechanical /biological cleaning and
would like the sump for the monthly 100 gallon changes. The chiller will be
needed to offset the lighting and gravel heating to maintain 74-76 degrees.
Now to the questions...concerns
I would like to use the sump to do the "secondary circulation", i.e. water
changes and conditioning, cooling, and any extra filtering (if needed, I hope to
avoid). Mostly to turn the water over for cooling, but I am concerned about CO2
loss in the water drop from the tank overflows. Is this an issue?
<Likely not... can route the discharges under water to cut down turbulence,
carbon dioxide loss>
Secondly, I would like to be able to drain the water for changes in the main
tank out through a tee valved pipe above the sump return, through the wall and
to the outside of the house. Then I could shut down secondary circulation to
add city water back through another pipe into the sump to sit until conditioned,
tested, and ready for circulation into the main tank. Then I could start the
pump and chiller, and gravel heater back up. The house has A/C and stays about
78 most of the time.
Please comment on this, any potential pitfalls etc?
<The teed secondary valving, pump... I would be careful re... Only do so
yourself... and only when present... potential for disaster in actual practice>
Would like to set up a manual valve system, as I don't trust the automated
valves.
<Me neither>
Please make suggestions, any advice is greatly regarded and appreciated.
Thanks
GW
<From what I understand of your plan, all sounds well thought out... Should be
an impressive display. Bob Fenner>
Aeration and a Planted Tank - 06/07/2005
Thanks for all the good advice so far. It has been very helpful over the
years.
<I am delighted that you have found WWM useful; thank you very much for the kind
words....>
I have a 90 gallon tank...18 months old...with two Emperor 400s, 80 degrees, 5
angelfish, 11 Cory cats, and 7 Bristlenose Plecos...the Plecos spawn constantly.
<An excellent bonus, to be sure!>
I also have a 30 gallon cube...one month old, but I stole a BioWheel from my
established tank...with an Emperor 280, 75 degrees and two goldfish...an Oranda
and a moor. I change 10% of the water every day and vacuum the tanks once
weekly.
<Wow! You've sure got me beat. I tend to be a lot more lax about
maintenance.... Now, I know we typically crack the whip on folks and tell them
to do MORE maintenance on their tanks, but a word of caution, if you plan to
plant a tank heavily, you'll not want to vacuum the gravel each week.... and,
being that the substrate is where your little nitrifying pals colonize, be sure
not to be *too* thorough in your weekly vacuum job.>
I have been running air stones in both tanks...2 in the 90 gal and one in the 30
gal...to increase oxygen content in the water.
<I'm sure the plecs and Corys especially delight in this, as they come from
areas that usually have high oxygen content, though it may not be an absolute
necessity.>
I bought a small piece of Anubis Nana rooted on bogwood for the goldfish tank
and some Java Fern and Anubis Nana for the angelfish tank which I tied to
existing bogwood so it could root. The LFS told me that I should discontinue the
air stones now that I have added plants...something to do with CO2 levels. Is
that right?
<Well, yes and no. These VERY hardy plants will take just about anything you
can dish up - very low light, low CO2, low nutrient levels, etc., etc.... You
need not change anything you are currently doing to please them. You can keep
your aeration, maintenance scheme, and all.>
I do not want to stop the extra aeration if I don't have to do so.
<No worries. If you choose to plant the tank heavily with plants in the
substrate, you'll want to make some major changes (less frequent gravel
vacuuming, for one), but the Anubias and java fern will do fine for you. You
could lightly plant the tank with plants in the substrate, as well - if you do
so, I would recommend heavy root feeders like Amazon swords, Crinum or
Vallisneria, Cryptocorynes, and Aponogetons, and give them some nice fertilizer
tabs in the substrate around them, and you could still keep your
aeration.... If you plant the tank heavily, though, you'll want to do some
research on how best to change your tank. Diana Walstad's book on low-tech,
low-maintenance planted tanks is great, as is Peter Hiscock's "Encyclopedia of
Aquarium Plants", which details lighting, fertilizing, adding CO2, and much much
more.>
James Nyman
<Wishing you continuing success with your aquaria, -Sabrina>
Optimal Filtration Quest for a 29 gal. Planted Tank
Dear Crew,
<Leticia... one of my sister's daughters names>
I am sorry if this question is redundant, but I searched the archives
and could not find the answer to my quest. I have a 29g FW with a Flora
base substrate and 2x55W Power compacts which I intend to make a medium
to heavily planted community tank.
My questions are:
1) Is one of the new Penguin bio-wheels an adequate source of filtration
for a planted tank?
<Should be, yes>
(Or will the bio-wheel take up waste that the plants will absolutely
need?
<Mmm, no... a balance will be struck>
I intend to have the tank pretty well stocked - cardinals, rasboras,
hatchets, blue rams, Corys, otos).
<Sounds very nice>
And 2) What is the ideal turnover I should get? Would it be harmful to
the plants to go with 350 gph, or should I only do 200?
<Either will work... I'd go with the smaller myself>
Oh, and since we're here, one more: Is it at all possible to have a tank
whose bottom is fully planted and would not need vacuuming? How would I
keep this healthy?
<Yes, can be done... with careful feeding, maintenance otherwise>
Thank you so much for your help. I know time is a rare commodity these
days, but I think without your help I would have given up on this hobby
a long time a go - I'm glad I haven't!
Leticia
<Me too. Bob Fenner>
Filtration on Saltwater and Planted tanks
Hi to all!!
Great website- I have found tons of useful info. I have to separate questions
regarding two different tanks (sorry if I should have done to separate emails).
First, I have a 125 gallon tank that is in the process of cycling. The ammonia
is almost at zero and the nitrites and nitrates are still high. I have the
diatom process starting in the past few days. I have the AquaClear Pro 150
wet/dry system with pre-filter and built in protein skimmer. The unit is powered
by a Eheim 1260 pump. I also have 3 powerheads (2 Zoo Meds Power Sweep 228 and a
Maxi-Jet 1200).
<Hello Karen. I don't believe you will like your power sweep before long. The
gears in these things are almost like watch gears, will get jammed from debris
going through them, you'll be cleaning this quite a bit> I have a combination of
Seaflor special grade reef sand, Arag-Alive special grade and 40 lbs of live
sand to equal a depth of 3 inches. I also have 165 lbs of live rock. For
lighting I have an Orbit CF Lunar Light with 2 96 watt dual actinic and 2 96
watt dual daylight and 6 lunar lights
<You are a little weak on lighting if you plan on keeping corals/anemones. Your
at 3 watts/gallon and need to be up around 4-5 watts/gallon>
After reading about the wet/dry filters and their high nitrate capabilities I am
not sure I want to stick with this filter. If I keep it and take the bio balls
out do I need to take the foam block out of the sump? <Leave the foam block but
clean it weekly>
I do remember that you have said to take the filter pad out also. I think I
also recall that you had said something about adding Ehfimech to the sump to rid
of excess nitrates, is this correct and if I was to add some live sand in the
sump would I just add the media on top of it?
<To add live sand to a sump, the unit needs to be designed for it, such as a
refugium, or you will need to create a baffle of some kind to prevent the sand
from being sucked up. Live sand will help reduce nitrates but get at the root of
the problem. If the system is in balance you should not have excessive nitrates
unless your system is overstocked, you overfeed, do not do weekly water changes
etc>
My protein skimmer is working great, but was wondering if it would benefit if I
added another one to the system or if it would make that much of a difference?
<You can't have too much protein skimming, and sure it will help>
I also have an Eheim Pro II 2028 that I am not using right now. Would I benefit
by adding this filter to my tank in addition to my wet/dry or could I run my
tank with just this canister filter plus a skimmer without any reduction in
filtration- what would you do?
<I would use the Eheim with Chemi-Pure to aid in waste removal. Chemi-Pure has
a very low phosphate content in their carbon plus the added benefit of two ion
exchange resins and two scavenger resins.>
My other question has to do with my 75 gallon plant/ rainbowfish tank. I have
the dreaded Eheim wet/dry filtration on it. I know you guys dislike this filter
for saltwater tanks- does the same go for freshwater? Would it be better to put
my Eheim 2028 on this tank? I know that this filter does not have much of a
carbon pad but if I ran it with the pad in there continuously would that take
all the plant nutrients out of the water? I started out with fluorite as the
substrate, but I am disappointed. I rinsed it out many many times and it still
causes cloudiness in my tank if it is stirred up. I was thinking about replacing
it with EcoComplete, any thoughts on this product? I also have the deluxe
fully-automatic CO2 system with this tank..
<Karen, it sounds like you're serious about plants so search the wet web for
freshwater plants for some useful info along with the Q&A at Drs. Foster &
Smith. James (Salty Dog)> Sorry about the two separate questions and thanks for
your time. Karen
Want some more inf. about live plants
Hello Bob/Sabrina:
This is Ahmed from Pakistan. Actually still I have some controversies in my mind
that could I be able to keep some LIVE PLANTS in the tank based on UNDER GRAVEL
FILTERS?
In the last mail Sabrina told me that PLANTS DO NOT LIKE A GREAT DEAL OF WATER
CIRCULATION THROUGH THEIR ROOT SYSTEM AND YOU WOULD BE VERY LIMITED IN SELECTION
OF PLANTS IF YOU INTEND TO KEEP THEM IN U/G FILTER BASED TANK.
<Yes. Best to "blind pot" rooted plants in systems with undergravel
filtration... if you can't be persuaded to abandon the UG entirely. Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwugfiltr.htm>
She had recommended java fern and java moss and other plants of that same
species.
I have white silica sand in my aquarium and its thickness is almost 6 inches I
mean 6 inches from the U/G filter plate.
<Ahmed... silica is about the worst choice for aquarium substrates. Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/substraags.htm>
I wanna ask that:
1. What is the very best substrate for the live plants in which they can grow
nicely? Can I grow live plants in WHITE SILICA SAND or should I include other
substrate or soil with it?
<See the above and the links (in blue, above) to Related Articles and FAQs>
2. The thickness of gravel is almost 6 inches form the U/G filter plate can't I
grow them in my tank? I think that there should not be any effect of water
circulation on the roots of plants due to the thickness of the gravel.
<To an extent this is so>
3. Here in Pakistan a local fish dealer said me that I can grow them because of
the thickness of gravel that will not let the circulation of water to damage the
roots of the plants. He also said that Live Plants are necessary for the
breeding of Angel fish. Is he right?
<Maybe the former, but not the latter. Most every commercial producer of
Angelfishes does NOT use live plants... Most use bare tanks, a piece of slate,
lead sheet, flower-pots for spawning media>
4. Can I keep other fishes i.e. Clown loach, Bala sharks, Rainbow sharks in a
breeding tank of Angel fish or should I keep only a breeding pair of Angel?
<If there's room, these will all go in together... the Bala's will get very big
with age>
5. Is there any sort of visible difference between male and female angel, I mean
how can I differentiate between male and female angel for breeding purpose? here
a local dealer said me that for breeding purpose I should raise 6 to 8 young
angels and after some period they will make pair themselves. Is he right?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwangelfishes.htm>
6. How should I start a breeding programme of angel fish? Lighting, Temperature,
Food, Medications, pH etc..........!
I had tried so many times to grow live plants in my aquarium but unfortunately
every time I failed and I have spend a lot of money on live plants but still I
could not get reward from them. Now this time again I intend to pull out all of
my plastic plants and wanna try again that's why I am very much careful and
collecting information about them.
Thanks,
AHMED (KARACHI, PAKISTAN)
<Keep studying my friend. Bob Fenner>
Marine filter gear for Planted system
Hello
? for freshwater aquarium
I have a 55 gallon FW aquarium and I just brought a dirt cheap Aqua refugium
pro series with built in skimmer with pumps lighting and Bo balls for $150
new, the person I brought it from told me that someone told her that she
could not used it for freshwater tank,
know, I know nothing about reef aquarium but I know that biological matter
is good for freshwater tanks also
finally my? I would like to know what ways could I used this set up to
benefit my aquarium what sort of thing should I put in the refugium area
that are
natural
what are the best way I could get the water to go from my tank to my refugium
Please if possible anything that you could or would put in you on freshwater
tank if you had this set or have please do not hold back. Big or small,
cheap or expensive.
Thank you I appreciate any advice that maybe giving
I am tired of my local pet store that can't really tell me nothing and seem
unsure them selves.
Keep in mine that my tank has not yet been started so thing that I could put
in the main tank that are natural, that would help with the keep of my fish.
list of what I already have for tank
undergravel filter
whisper heater which was brought rated for the refugium
PGP power reactor C02 system and Hagen plant grow natural system with co2
(not sure if I should use both and if so should I put one the return of the
refugium sump)
plan to have a well planted tank (low mnt.) also if it possible with your
advice
< Dump the undergravel filter and the sand that came with the tank. Fill the
bottom of the tank with well washed Fluorite by SeaChem. Three inches should be
fine. The light bulb should be florescent and be around 5000K. The heater is Ok
and should be set at 78 to 80 degrees. Dump the refugium and get a canister
filter that will pump up to 400 gallons per hour. If you want to go with stem
plants then you will probably need a co2 system. -Chuck>
Canister filters and possible gear reviews by Gage
Hey Bobster,
<Gage>
I just purchased some via-aqua canister filters for my new 125gal fw plant tank,
so far they suck just as much as every other canister filter I have used, a
couple extra pros, a few cons, blah blah blah. So far I have experienced the
magnum 330, the Rena xp1/2/3, via aqua 650, and it will not be hard to get my
hands on a Fluval 404. All the big ones except for the Eheims (too expensive). I
think our site could use an honest review of canister filters, what do you
think?
<I strongly agree. As a matter of fact, we could REALLY use an ongoing review of
most all products in our interest... you might be just the enterprising
individual to engage (sorry, couldn't help m'self)>
One of the fish mags I get had a two part piece on canisters comparing all of
the aforementioned, but it really left me not knowing any more than I already
did. Like the author did not want to piss off any of the manufacturers. I'd like
to say "This one sucks for this reason, but is good for this, and this one sucks
for this reason, and for my money I would go with this one."
<Too, too common. I have had book reviews omitted, changed to being "all
positive" for the same lack of reason by editors... Arggghhhh>
I love canister filters, but after all what exactly are they, I am convinced
they are all a pain in the arse? Water leaves the tank, through the media and
back to the tank again, wouldn't that make the media more important than the
canister itself (ignoring maintenance, gph, ease of use, contact time with
media, etc)?
Gage
<An interesting point of view. I am still a big fan for certain applications,
and brands, esp. Eheim. Canister filters are not the end-all for all types of
systems, but do have their place. Write on brother. Bob Fenner>
UGF and High pH? - 04/14/2004
Hi guys....
<Hello>
I have a 39G high tank that has been set up for 10+ years. All of a sudden my ph
is 7.6 , no ammonia, no nitrates, I do a 25% water change 1-2 x a month.
<"All of a sudden".... Have you added any new rock recently? New
substrate? Anything at all new in the system?>
I have a undergravel filter. LFS says that is the problem with the pH.
<If the UGF is properly maintained, I doubt that this is likely at all. Do you
regularly vacuum the substrate? Any large pieces of decor that would create a
"dead spot" under the UGF plate?>
PH used to be 6 and then it went up and won't go down. My live plants are not
enjoying it. Should I just remove UGF.... I know the plants would be happier?
<The plants would certainly do better without it, that's for sure. But I am not
convinced that the UGF is the cause of your problems.... Have you tested your
source water? Removed peat or driftwood from the system? Changed the manner in
how you go about regular maintenance? Added or removed anything at all in the
system that may have contributed?>
Please advise. Monica
<Hope to help you get to the bottom of this.... Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Planted tank filtration options
Hey you guys rock and your solid info is priceless. When I upgraded my
freshwater planted set-up early last year I got all the fancy stuff except for
filtration. The tank is a 72gal bowfront and I'm using two magnum 350s I had
laying around for filtration, one half filled with SeaChem renew and half
SeaChem PhosGuard, the other filled with SeaChem Matrix bio media. The tank is
heavily planted and has a fairly heavy fish load, seven clown loaches (1"-4"
they'll get a larger tank in a couple years), one red-tailed black shark, four
yo-yo loaches, four Kuhli loaches, seven Otos, a small 3" royal plec. The tank
also tons cherry, Amano, and red-nosed shrimp that seem to multiply like rabbits
along with about 3 dozen Nerites snails and a dozen freshwater clams. I'm having
a hard time controlling phosphate levels and using PhosGuard is helping but it's
only temporary, usually the first few days after changing the media and cleaning
the filter sleeves everything
looks good and then I get hair algae blooms on slow growing plants. I sparingly
feed frozen bloodworms, beef heart, and tetra flakes. Cleaning the Magnums is a
real pain in the @ss and I'd like to upgrade my filtration. I'm leaning toward
an Eheim wet-dry but I'd like to know any other options or opinions on this. Due
to space restrictions (back of tank only 2" from wall, and the entire inside
back of the tank is covered with cork bark) I have little other options other
than a canister set-up. So would a single Eheim wet dry be better than my two
magnums? Or would the improvement be minimal and
instead should I only run one magnum? Thanks.
>>Hello :D
The Eheim wet-dry will not provide enough mechanical filtration. It is intended
for bio-filtration, so you should run another filter for the mechanical. Perhaps
another Eheim, regular canister, the Professional series, something heavy duty
yet easy to clean. You should clean it bi-monthly.
I am interested in knowing how often you vacuum your substrate. Anoxic
substrates can lead to algae problems over time...and a year sounds about right.
What do your nitrates read? You may need to clean up the substrate, and that is
not a job I envy. With your high fish load and even with the light feedings, you
are getting just way too many DOC's. :O
-Gwen
Planted tank filtration - Follow-up
Thanks for the response. It is difficult to vacuum my substrate do to the
plant coverage but I did remove a number of plants, vacuumed the substrate, and
replanted. I'm somewhat perplexed as to why all my plant growth has slowed down
so significantly. My previous tanks have done this over time but I went with
substrate heating and 100% fluorite substrate this time around in order to avoid
everything going stale in that area. My light bulbs (4-65watt 6500K CF) are
about 8mos old and I'm going to go ahead and replace two of them next week. I do
a 10-15% water change weekly, add SeaChem iron, and trace element fertilizer, as
well as add tab fertilizers every 3mos.
Most of my stem plants grow about an inch a week which is less than half the
growth I've seen in the past, crypts are being consumed by hair algae, the
mother Rubin sword has ceased multiplying like crazy, and a once beautiful dwarf
lily is slowly melting away while one other has just gone dormant. After much
exhausting research I'm starting to think that maybe my bio-filtration is just
too strong. I have a magnum 350 completely filled with SeaChem matrix, this with
the entire back of a 72gal tank covered in natural cork bark (which I would
think would be ideal for bacteria colonies) along with any bacteria in the
substrate. Is it possible that the bacteria is breaking down the bad stuff so
fast that it's leaving my plants too little or an imbalance of macro nutrients?
It seems like on planted tanks I've done in the past the plants did best when
the bio-filtration was at its weakest (after haphazard filter cleaning) and test
showed very slight amounts of ammonia or nitrite present.
>>Hey Alan :D The cork background bothers me...how is it attached? I would
worry about anything behind it that may be decaying and deteriorating your water
quality. This would result in an imbalance in your tank, leading to algae and
other problems. Do you measure your nitrates? Ammonia, nitrites? Yes, plants
consume those, but plant tanks do equally well without the levels being high
enough to register on our test kits. Plants also consume nitrates. But
overstocked-with-fish planted tanks can be imbalanced...And how about
phosphates? Do you test for those? How about CO2, do you add that? All things
must be balanced. High lighting and lots of fertilizer means you will need CO2
so your plants can breathe.. I doubt the filter is the problem. I think your
problem, again, is a too-high fish load. In other words, your filter cannot
"break down the bad stuff" if there is no bad stuff to begin with, and fish are
the producers of the "bad stuff". Thusly, less fish = less waste. Algae need two
things to flourish...light, and food. You are providing both, and the algae is
out-competing the plants for it. Imbalance problems can be complex, and hard to
trouble-shoot. I would recommend reading some of the material here:
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/ and
see if you can find out where your imbalance lies.. HTH -Gwen
Planted filtration options
Thanks for the quick reply and I hope I'm not dragging this out but you
couldn't be more correct in that imbalance problems are complex and hard to
pinpoint. I did some test last night; nitrite=0, ammonia=0, KH=4, phosphate=.5
(second to bottom of scale), I also tested the tap water for phosphate and got
no measurable reading, I didn't have a nitrate kit but will test tonight for
that. The tank does have high pressure co2 injection with a ph controller that
keeps the tank at a constant 6.7ph, my tap water comes out at 7.4. I have spent
countless hours reading over material from thekrib and WWM and like they say if
you look long enough you'll find someone that agrees with you. I found this
article that somewhat backs up my theory that bio-filtration just produces
excess nitrates that are less readily taken up by the plants and if given the
opportunity the plants could effectively do a better job than bacteria. Here is
an brief part of the statement...
"For most of us with freshwater systems, the nitrogen sink is the front yard
during our water changes. However, plants are excellent nitrogen sinks (and
nitrogen uptake is so good by plants that nitrogen availability is the limiting
factor for vegetative growth in the VAST majority of terrestrial systems).
I hear many aquarists with heavily planted tanks report nitrate levels at zero
because the plants utilize it all for biomass production (although light, CO2,
and other nutrients must be available). Adding a biological filter only provides
opportunity for Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter to fix the ammonia to nitrite to
nitrate, simply to remove it from the (more) toxic lower states to the minimally
toxic higher state of nitrate. However, we still end up with something
that we want (eventually) removed from the system. So why bother? Why not just
go for the source, and remove the nitrogen immediately and directly in its lower
state? plants can more readily take up ammonia and nitrite, so why bother with
the bacteria at all? If you have plants to buffer the change, the bacteria
actually SLOWS this process down, even to the point of allowing nitrogenous
wastes to accumulate in the system. The argument "Well, plants may not be
able to buffer that change fast enough" is baloney sausage (BS). We trust
bacteria to do it, so why not plants? Bacteria is capable of hitting a geometric
growth curve in a short period of time, yes; but these populations are largely
steady-state in a cycled aquarium, so their geometric growth curve is not an
advantage
to a cycled system. Likewise, plants can easily be the established
infrastructure in the system WAITING for the ammonia to absorb, WAITING for the
opportunity to grow. Same thing. Even if the bacteria is MUCH more efficient,
(which they probably are), that is more than compensated for by the fact that
you have THOUSANDS (millions?) of times more plant mass than you have bacterial
mass in a typical planted tank. Similarly, the bacteria IS NOT efficient at
REMOVING the nitrogen (fixing it into an inaccessible form: biomass or N2 gas).
It doesn't do that at all! (Unless your substrate went anaerobic and all your
fish and plants died.) It merely converts it to another state, which still must
be removed. Now, PLANTS ACTUALLY REMOVE IT by putting it in an inaccessible
bio-mass state. Also, your friends thank you when you give your nitrogen waste
away in the form of plant cuttings."
>>Hey Alan, yes, I understand. You would need to experiment with the quantity of
fish required to remove the ammonia and nitrite in your particular system,
however. That could take some time, and could lead to some deaths along the way.
But it would be interesting to see at what stocking level you would succeed at.
Are you going to try to do something along those lines? -Gwen<<
Filtration (and more) for Planted Aquaria
Wow, this is quite and informative site. How long has this been around?
<Ooh, good question. You got my curiosity piqued, so I had to ask Bob - WWM as
you now know it came to be in 1999, though it got started as Q/A for Flying Fish
Express in the mid- to late- '90s.>
I wish I had known about it with my first tank. Then again I should have read a
little more back then, I feel bad for the fish in my first tank knowing what I
know now... I'm much more 'researched' this time around!
<Excellent - and you'll probably have that much more fun now, too!>
I've had a tough time finding a good LFS or someone that seems to know what
they're talking about at these chain stores...
<All too common, unfortunately.>
My first tank was a FW, 55 gallon, planted, community tank. I moved 6 years ago
but it stayed. I will be setting up a brand new 72 gallon, bow front,
freshwater, planted, community tank. My first question is regarding filtration:
I would like to get a canister filter so I can store it in the stand, out of
sight and less noise.
<Canister filters are the best way to go for planted aquaria, as well.>
I'm looking at the Eheims (not sure on the wet/dry option).
<Eheims are excellent filters, the "cream of the crop". Probably the best
choice available, IMO. As for the wet/dry option, I think this would be
unnecessary for a plant tank.>
I've read here and other areas that 5-10X turnover is a good way to go. The big
Eheims rate at 270ish GPH and claim it's good up to 90+ gallons. That is only
3+ times turnover for a 72 gallon tank, even less for a 90. Are these filters
that efficient?
<Eheims really are quite good filters. Though it might be the best option to go
with two smaller Eheims, instead of one large one - if cost isn't a factor. On
planted aquaria, one can get by with rather little filtration, even, provided
the tank is well planted and not overstocked on fish. If this is the case,
don't be too terribly concerned with turning over water as much as you would on
an unplanted (or sparsely planted) tank.>
Will it be enough, or should another type of filter be added like an internal
sponge?
<The 270 GPH Eheim would be just fine, I believe. Were I to upgrade my
filtration, I'd definitely go with an Eheim.>
For the money I could create a whirlpool with a few box filters at a combined
800PGH with money left over,
<LOL! A planted aquatic hurricane.... Honestly, the Eheim would be a much
better bet. The air-powered box filters I don't like to recommend - aeration
will work against you and your plants by letting too much CO2 out of the water.>
but I'd like all the filtration and devices to be as hidden as possible, might
even do the thermo canister!
<Now that's something I'd recommend against. Maybe just me, but I feel a lot
safer with the heater actually in the tank. If for some reason the filter got
clogged or stopped somehow, on a cold winter night, you might not have fish to
wake up to.>
I can also get this tank with an overflow in the corner. Is there some
advantage to this devise? Seems to be a nice way to have the canister's in/out
pipes hidden.
<Usually, overflows are used with sump systems. Though you might be able to
make use of it with a canister, it's an unnecessary expense, in my opinion.>
My second question is stocking related: I'm looking to stock a school of tiger
barbs, zebra Danios and some form of tetra, probably a school of Serpae tetras.
I would like to add a few angels too. I know the barbs are fin nippers, but I've
had them together before and the angels spawned to then eat their fry.
<I would definitely recommend against angels with these fish. Tiger barbs and
Serpae tetras are both aggressive nippers. Though the angels might be able to
hold their own, I fear it'd be an unhappy situation for them. I'd also be
afraid they'd grow up and eat the zebra Danios. Might you consider
black-skirted tetras as an angel substitute? They are somewhat similar in
appearance, but are very "tetra" in demeanor - would get on well with the other
nippers. Fair warning though, tetras and barbs will chew on your plants some,
as well.>
Anyway, what is a good choice for bottom dwellers? I could get some Corydoras,
which I like, but I really want to get some inverts too.
<Corys are nice, and would do fine in your tank.>
A crab would be great, but wouldn’t it eat the Cory?
<And any other fish unfortunate enough to get too close for too long. With the
fast moving schoolers that you've chosen, though, they'd be less at risk than,
say, a Betta. I would fear for the Corys, though.>
I’m just getting to the stage of researching what I want in the tank, so shrimp
are on the list. What kind of inverts will work that will not become either
predator or prey.
<I'd skip crabs, then; they'll prey on the shrimp, for sure. But as far as
shrimp go, you have oodles of options. For something sizeable, wood shrimp
(Singapore/bamboo/flower shrimp, all the same) are an attractive animal, and not
terribly shy at all. Even at their size (up to 4"), they are incapable of
eating fish or other shrimp. They will have to be fed sinking foods that break
up into a fine "dust", like shrimp pellets, etc. For smaller guys, "amano"
algae eating shrimp are quite easily available now. Others, like cherry shrimp,
bumblebee shrimp, and a few other Caridina/Neocaridina species are becoming
available from time to time and pretty much all will help to combat algae. Stay
away from shrimps of the genus Macrobrachium, as these are mostly large
predatory animals. To get an idea of what's available, take a look at: http://www.franksaquarium.com/freshwatershrimpfarm.htm
>
Lastly, with a QT set up, I would need to go through the same acclimation ritual
from the QT to the main tank once the 2 weeks is up, right?
<A good idea to, yes. Basically, bag the fish, float, add water, wait, net,
release.>
Thanks for your help. Todd
<You bet! Hope all goes well with your new tank! -Sabrina>
Setting up an Eheim Canister Filter -
Hi.
<Hello, JasonC here...>
I am setting up a freshwater plant tank. My questions concerns the supply and
return lines from an Eheim 2217 canister filter and CO2 reactor. The tank is
36x18x21 high. I am using 2" of fluorite so the depth now is approx 19". The
rigid plastic return tube as it came from the factory is down to the substrate.
How high should it be from the substrate?
<It's fine where it is... if you want the super-snazzy fix, Eheim makes a
surface skimmer device that will amend that rigid tubing and pull water for the
filter from the surface of the tank, which is ideal.>
The return tubing from the canister is teeing off to a CO2 reactor so there are
now two tubes going back to the tank (directly to the tank and from the
reactor). How should I set up both of those two in the tank? How much below the
surface should they be and how far should they both from each other? <For the
return from the canister, close to the surface of the water is best, creating
surface agitation for gas exchange, etc. As for the CO2 return, doesn't really
matter that much, but about mid-way down the tank would probably be best.> I am
using two of the rigid tubes from Eheim. Should one be just below the other one
running parallel? Also since the rigid tubes are about 12" long, should I center
them (left to right) on the back wall?
<Doesn't really matter - whatever pleases your aesthetic sensibilities.>
Thanks a lot. Ken
<Cheers, J -- >
Diatom Filter and Water Polishing
>Hi Bob,
>>Marina tonight, I won't even try with the Buddy Hackett jokes.
>I set up a freshwater plant tank with fluorite. I was thinking of using a
diatom filter to clear the water now and after I disturb the substrate when I
plant.
>>Ah yes, you wish to "polish" the water.
>Will this do the trick?
>>Absolutely, loved by pros! Magnum makes a good quality design that is VERY
easy to use and clean, too.
>Also will it change any of the water parameters using the diatom powder that
comes with it? Thanks, Ken
>>Nope, not at all. On a well-maintained tank it would take maybe an hour or so
to fully polish, unless there's a great deal of detritus and the like stirred up
into the water column. Do know that, being such a fine-particulate filter, they
require very regular maintenance, and DO keep the filter media wet! Best of
luck, Marina
- CO2 in a Planted Tank -
<Good morning, JasonC here...>
Hi, I have been using Chemi-pure in my canister filter for a planted freshwater
tank. The water has never seemed so clean and the fish seem healthier. I started
using a DIY CO2 reactor a few weeks back and the plants seem to have improved.
Now I see, looking back at the Chemi-pure label that it removes CO2 from the
water. Do the two cancel each other out? <Probably not completely, but... there
is certainly a conflict of interest there.> Should I stop using pure-pure? <I
wouldn't use it 100% of the time, and/or when you do, just shut off the CO2.> Or
should I stop using CO2 or is it ok to use them together? <If your intention
here is to have a planted tank, then CO2 injection is a must... which makes the
use of Chemi-Pure less important, but I wouldn't write it off completely.> Thank
you again for your expertise and patience.
<Cheers, J -- >
Fish and filtration (180 gal. FW)
I am new to fish keeping, and got my first freshwater fish in September of
2002. I had a 20 gallon tank that came with my classroom, overstocked it,
and so bought a 75 gallon tank, which all the kids love. Now that summer is
approaching, I would like to get a 125-180 gallon tank for home, and slowly
transfer the fish to it to avoid the daily 30 mile commute to check on them.
Is there much practical difference between a 125 and a 180?
<Much easier to maintain. More stable due to size, cube>
Do the fish get
more oxygen, or is it just deeper with a 180?
<Some. This is mainly a function of surface area, but more volume, turned over,
exposed to air, results in more dissolved oxygen>
Except for the rainbows and
sometimes the Danios, they all seem to prefer the lower regions of the tank.
<This is their nature>
My main question is filtration. I currently use a Fluval 404. The ammonia
and nitrites (nitrates?) seem good, and the pH is about 7.0. I vacuum out
20 gallons every two weeks and replace it with treated (AquaClear) spring
water, and have about 10 plants in it, plus some broken flowerpots for
shelter. I have read the Ecosystem articles in FAMA with great interest,
and understand that the system is available for freshwater tanks. Is it
effective?
<Yes... but if you are so interested, I would at least consider just adding soil
to the main tanks substrate. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/soilags.htm>
Does one use the same Caulerpa species as with a salt water
tank?
<No, other (freshwater) species of plants rather than this marine algae genus>
Can I combine it with a canister filter, and if so, should I get a
pre-drilled tank for the Ecosystem, and use the regular hose system for the
canister to maintain surface turbulence, or is there a better way?
<There are many ways. A good idea at this juncture to purchase a pre-drilled
tank, look into sumps/refugiums... in view of your likelihood of "going
saltwater" someday soon... a better idea to study what your options are, what
livestock you intend to keep (other than what you currently have)>
And finally, I think I overstocked again. From smallest to largest, the
resident fish are:
3 dwarf Corydoras (1 hastatus, 2 pygmaeus)
4 brass tetras
16 neon tetras
7 blue-eye Forktail rainbows
4 Celebes rainbows
3 cherry barbs
6 X-ray tetras (golden Pristella)
3 leopard Danios (long finned)
2 neon calico platies
4 checkerboard barbs
1 German (blue) ram
2 flying foxes
2 Bolivian rams
1 Hoplo catfish
<About right, and a very nice/compatible mix of fishes>
I thought I would move the 4 checkerboard barbs, the 3 Danios, the brass
tetras and maybe one of the flying fox to the 20 gallon tan, which is
currently empty. I would love to move the German ram too, as she bullies
the two Bolivians, but I am afraid of losing her. What do you think?
<A good plan. Plenty of room in the new system>
Thank you for your time-
Edna
<Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>
Re: plants and my filter
hey crew
I bought a new setup for my 2 yr old daughter and we're really getting into it.
we have a 72 gallon with a Aquaclear 300 filter. undergravel filter with a 402
powerhead at either end. I would say we have standard gravel no epoxy coated
stuff. we started out with a few plants. I have since put them in terracotta
pot. I read on your site that UG's are bad for plants.
<Most rooted types, yes>
we would like to have a lot more plants but not in pots. should I take out the
UG and change the gravel to better suit the plants.
<Possibly. That or place a barrier (a thin sheet of plastic perhaps) under the
gravel, on top of the part of the plate where you intend to root more plants>
and when cleaning the tank if I take out the filter how often and how deep
should I do. and will this not disturb the roots.
thanx Dave
<Mmm, depth of sand mainly depends on its grain size and your esthetic
appreciation. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/substraags.htm
Bob Fenner>
Filtering a Freshwater Plant Tank
Hi,
I want to start a 38 gallon planted freshwater tank. I want to keep the tank as
clean looking as possible, but highly filtered. Because I don't have any
overflows or any holes built into the tank, the only way I could think to get
water from the tank to the sump and back was by 2 PVC or ABS pipes attached to
the same model pumps.
<This is a terrible idea.>
1 feed line connecting the tank to a pump to feed the sump, and 1 return line
connecting the sump to the pump to feed the tank. My problem is I can't figure
out how to accommodate any irregularities in pump speeds between the two units.
<NO one can. We get this question pretty regularly. There is no way to do this.
You will create a very wet floor.>
I don't want the sump/tank running dry or overflowing. Is there something you
would suggest other than the two pumps?
<Yes, just use a canister filter. That is how most all plant tanks are
filtered.>
Also, in case of a power outage, the only thing I could think to do to break the
siphon was to drill a hole into the sump feeder line below the natural water
line on the tank. But are these pumps self priming, or would I have to intervene
every time the power goes out? Can you give me a quick idea of how to make a
safe sump system for this type of tank?
<Yes, don't do it.>
Thank you for you time!
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Filters on Planted Tanks
Hi,
I have a 55 gallon freshwater tank with plants. Plant density is moderate to
heavy and covers the whole tank. I run a canister filter now, but am not
enjoying the amount of time it takes to maintain it. Especially, having to take
the hoses off and apart to clean them.
<not always fun>
I have used your Emperor 280 in the past and really liked it. Would it be
possible to use that filter or the 400 on my planted tank? Or would it create
too much surface agitation?
<It may create too much agitation.>
I also own and run a Hot Magnum filter on this tank now and then. I run carbon
to pull medication after medicating and run the micron filter as needed to
polish the water.
I have what I believe to be a slightly heavy fish load: 2 medium discus 10 neon
tetras 5 hatchets 1 Siamese algae eater 3 otos 4 Cory cats 1 clown Pleco (3
inches long) 2 small blue rams (1 inch each)
My current canister filter is a Fluval 304 with sponges, ceramics, and floss. I
use RO water, and Kent RO right to put chemistry back into the water, along with
some type of black water extract and some liquid plant food. I feed 4 times
daily and all food is consumed within 1-2 minutes, unless I feed bottom feeder
wafers which takes a lot longer for consumption.
<That's a lot of food, I hope they are small meals.>
Please advise with your opinion on the filter situation.
<I would consider a wet/dry filter, the return pump will allow you more control
over circulation. It is also much easier to clean and replace the filter
media. I have a couple of Filstar canister filters that are not too terrible to
deal with, but probably not much different than the Fluval. >
Sincerely, Jeff Abramson
Question Related to Planted Aquarium
I have a 65 gal. aquarium that I was going to filter with a Filstar XP2 and
I was thinking of coupling it with a Tidepool 1. But reading the articles on
your Web site, I believe you suggested against using a
trickle or wet dry system like the Tidepool for planted aquaria. <In
general yes>
If so, do you recommend any filtration in addition to the Filstar for a planted
aquarium (65 gal.) that will soon have community tropicals? I was considering a
fluidized bed filter or an Emporer. Any thoughts?
<The Emperor (Hang on tank open power filter) is fine. For about the same
reasons as I eschew the use of wet/dry filters you don't need, want a fluidized
bed either. Do keep studying... all you really should have need for is some
mechanical filtration, water circulation... Bob Fenner>
CO2 (devices, connection/infusion)
Dear Mr Fenner,
I wish to experiment with CO2 fertilization using yeast.
When i connect the airline tubing to the bottle containing yeast mix,
where do i place the other end of the tubing? below or beside the
cannister filter intake?(fluval 104)
<You want to intake the carbon dioxide into the canister filter system? Hmm,
well... a few things, actually three... Do use a check valve (or even two) from
the 3/16 line (likely I.D.) from your yeast/pop bottle system... and do make or
buy a "bubble counter" to be able to see if gas is actually exiting through the
line to the canister... and do connect (via a "T" or "Y" fitting to the
discharge line of the canister filter if you're going this route... I would/do
encourage you instead to utilize an in-tank infusion line... there are a bunch
of designs here... some very simple. Take a look on the Net at the Aquatic
Gardener's Association's archives (the Krib) for a slew of these. Their link is
on WWM if you can't find it. Bob Fenner>
Kind regards
Keith
Re: Re: CO2
sorry about this but i am a little unclear about where to place the
CO2 discharge line?
<Ideally within the tank itself... if on the Canister system, then on the
discharge line (the exhaust side of the pump plumbing) Bob Fenner>
Re: Re: Re: CO2 infusion
>sorry about this but i am a little unclear about where to place the
>CO2 discharge line?
><Ideally within the tank itself... if on the Canister system, then on
the
>discharge line (the exhaust side of the pump plumbing) Bob Fenner>
do i place the CO2 discharge line underneath
<Underneath? The gas must be discharged into the water...>
the filter discharge
line?
wouldn't it be better for the CO2 discharge to be placed beneath the
filter intake line?
-i heard CO2 would be completely disolved by the
time it leaves the filtration unit.
My concern is whether the filter intake line would suck all the CO2 &
air out of my 'yeast bottle'.
Keith
<On the intake side there is more of a chance that the water will be pumped INTO
the yeast bottle... Please see the Krib archives as you were directed in the
first email. Bob Fenner>
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