Beginner Chiller Questions/ Freshwater Refugium Qs 5/11/08
Bob,
<Scott V. with you, Bob is out and about without web service.>
Thank you again for the help on this topic. I'm sorry to revive it after you suggested not to use one but...
<I would not use one here either.>
I think, after experimenting with fans and frozen two-liter bottles, over the past two weeks, that I am planning on getting a chiller. A couple reasons why:
I am planning on adding a refugium to the system. This will add more heat with the pump (40W Quiet One 3000 pump if that's an ok pump by your standards) and lighting. I'm going to get a twin-tube SO 15W-per-bulb light for the 20H refugium and stagger the lighting so it's on when my tank lights are off. I plan on only growing algae and Anarchis in this tank, which are doing really well with my triple-tube SO light in my main tank right now.
Also, here's another reason why: I don't necessarily trust anyone to take care of my tank while I'm gone for over a week and a half.
<I don’t like to either.>
I can give instructions to feed, but requiring them to watch the temperature closely is just out of the question. <Yes.> So, I'd rather have a system do it for me. Does this make sense? <Yes.> I know you still probably think I don't need one, but I've been struggling whether or not to get one. I don't feel comfortable without one for some reason.
<It certainly will not hurt anything…except your pocketbook!>
It's kind of like when I bought my heaters... most the time I don't need them, but they save me a lot on heating costs in the winter when I don't have my heat on at all in the apartment and it rarely gets above 66F in here. My biggest problem right now is sizing. I used the JBJ sizing chart, and it is stating that I'm between .09 and .14 HP needed. So of course it's recommending the 1/5th (.20) HP chiller. My biggest concern is that this might be cutting it close and the chiller will run a lot. The next highest size is 1/4th (.25) HP.
<The 1/5 will do it.>
My biggest concern with that is short-cycling the chiller.
<This is very detrimental to the life of the chiller.>
I'm at my wits end because I don't think I know enough about which chiller is properly sized. They are only about $60 difference, so pricing there isn't too much of a concern. But I do know this is one case where bigger isn't always better, <Nope> but at the same time I want one that can be big enough to handle either a larger system in the future or potentially get me started on salt if I decide to go that way.
<A larger, possibly reef system does change things considerably. But, I do feel the ¼ will cycle on and off too fast for what you are looking to do, it may not have enough of a lifespan to see the larger marine tank.>
Decisions, decisions...
For the second half of my e-mail... I'll phrase it like a separate email so if you needed you can split it into the different FAQs. I'm going to be setting up a refugium for my 75 gallon freshwater tank. I will not be drilling, and the tank is not reef-ready, so I will be getting an overflow box.
<OK, if you intend to use a continuous siphon HOB overflow, do consider two for redundancy.>
I'm not sure what exactly I'm going to buy yet. Do I need to use PVC for plumbing the system?
<Generally, yes.>
I wanted to somehow control the water flow out of the tank, so I know I need some kind of ball valve for the output to the refugium to prevent rapid water flow, correct?
<No, you do not want to restrict what flows out of the tank via any overflow in any way what so ever. You will want to control the flow into the tank by putting a ball valve on the output of your sump return pump.>
Next, I was going to use a Quiet One 3000 pump to use as the return. I have about 4.5 ft of head to overcome just from the floor to the top of the tank, and adding in any additional resistance from something like a chiller and elbows if it is hard-plumbed needs to be added.  This pump has 10ft of head at 0 flow.  For the refugium, I'm confused what I should put in there. I know my heaters will go in there, but what about air stones?
<You can, air stones will not be necessary with appropriate stocking. The sump/overflow will provide extra O2 exchange.>
What about the canister filter? I keep that on the main tank, right?
<You can, or provide biological filtration within the sump. Either or…>
I can only think that it should go in the main tank because it's main function is to clear the tank... but again I'm new to this and reading the FAQs and
set-up guide didn't really get into these specifics. I think because most people use a sump as the filter with a refugium built in or separate. In my case, however, I need a relatively low flow through the chiller and the refugium that I have decided to skip the sump all  together as I already have the canister filter and have no want to modify the 20H tank I am going to use for the refugium.
<Sounds fine.>
Any advice or help you can give me is, as always, greatly appreciated.
<You are on track other than the points mentioned above.>
I think I've got so many decisions to make that I'm complicating everything and I just need someone who knows this stuff to bounce ideas off of.
<Happens to all of us entering new hobbies!>
John
<Have fun with this, Scott V.>

Re: Beginner Chiller Questions /Freshwater Refugium Qs 5/11/08
Scott,
Thank you very much for the quick reply.
<Welcome.>
You are now the second professional that has told me not to use a chiller, and both from this site. I value all of your opinions very much, for you are out here giving us free advice about things you know and love.
<We do love and live the advice we give.>
So, that being said, please forgive me, as I intend not to challenge either one of your opinions, but rather seek to understand why and how.
<No problem, we are here to help others understand what we have learned!>
This is due to the engineering/science background that I have.
<Me too, I am the same way.>
Why don't you think I need a chiller for such high temps? I know the tank will reach 90 degrees over the week and a half I'm gone. Please, please explain to me in very simple terms why you think I don't need one, as I'm still very uncomfortable not getting one with the temps reaching that high.
<The livestock you have are fairly resilient. The need for a chiller mainly stems from keeping very delicate corals in situations where the temp. fluctuates quite a bit throughout the day, usually due to the intense lighting. Even in a full blown reef tank the temp. can be run into the mid 80’s (although not ideal), so long as this is consistent throughout the day.>
I seek to keep them between 73 and 75 on the high side. Of course, now that I've had two pros tell me I don't need a chiller, I am once again second-guessing my potential purchase.
<It will in no way be detrimental to your livestock, we both just feel it offers little if any benefit in regards to cost.>
Also, reading more and more on reef tanks, I'm not sure I'm ready yet to get into that. Lighting prices, live rock prices, the tolerances that these species have, and the fact that I have no RO machine, no top-off machine, no sump, and the water here is not the best all tell me that I need to not do a salt-water tank.
<I here you my friend. If this does appeal to you at all do consider watching the local newspaper or Craigslist ads. You can find amazing deals on a complete setup.>
With the canister filter and everything I've purchased geared towards freshwater, these fish, with the money I'm spending on them, better live for a while. <!!> So, until I can get the first refugium set up and running and get some experience with better water quality and the like, I'm probably better off sticking with FW and the forgiveness that my current species gives with environment. Hopefully some fish and corals out there are breathing a sigh of relief right now!!! :)
<In time…do set your sights.!>
As for the overflow boxes...
Thank you for clarifying that I can use PVC. I saw I needed to use rigid plumbing, but was uncertain whether or not PVC would leach chemicals into the water and whether or not the cement used to bond joints was safe for the aquarium.
<Hmm, glue, let cure for 24 hours and install.>
I was planning on going with this one from e-Shops: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18358
<The general design is a good one in regards the HOB boxes in general.>
It is a dual-pipe overflow with 1.5" openings (I read the first Overflow FAQ and saw I needed more than one and that bigger can never be too much).
<It does have dual tubes into the posterior of the box, but does sound like only one 1.5” bulkhead. This will limit the flow to an actual 750 gph or so.>
Does one box with two overflows count as more than one in your suggestion?
<In this case with two siphon tubes, yes. It is the siphon portion failing that is of concern. The bulkhead gravity drains and gravity has not yet let us down!>
I also wanted to "Y" the two outputs of the box together into one pipe. Is this ok to do?
<No, not on any overflow. The gravity flow depends on diameter/friction thereof. Combining two will cause them to flow as if they were just one.>
The blockages normally form inside the box and not the pipes themselves, correct?
<Here or there, blockages are not the concern. It is more an issue of air entering the siphon portion of the box, stopping the siphon.>
My biggest question with the HOB as you call it, is how to control the amount of water flowing down.
<By the pump input into the tank. The box will just remove water above a certain level, the pump will control how much and how fast above that level.>
This box I'm looking at is rated for 1600GPH as per the FAQ saying bigger is better, and in a refugium, as well as through my chiller, need much lower flows from what I've read. I was looking to go about a six-times turnover rate for it, roughly 120 GPH for my 20H tank. That's over 10 times less than the HOB flows!
<Redundancy is a good thing with overflows. This unit will only produce about 750 gph, you are still well under that.>
How in the world do I keep my main tank from flowing into the refugium so fast?
<Pump size/flow.>
I understand that eventually the tank level drops, and the HOB stops flowing, but I want to prevent a mass flood of water to the refugium, a stop in flow, and then the refugium pump playing "catch up" just to have it start all over again. Waves of water inside a salt tank are good, but the last thing I want in my freshwater tank is a wave of water flowing down to the refugium every couple of minutes! It may start to sound like a leaking toilet and I don't want that!
<All of the above is a common story with gravity fed overflows exceeding what they should run. Keep your flow to 750 or less and this will not be an issue.>
However, the lowest HOB I can find is a single 300GPH device. Two of these still overflows the 120GPH by almost six times. Two of these is more expensive than the single-box dual outlet as well.
<Yes, and if you are looking at the units I suspect, stick with the first box you have mentioned. A much better design.>
So, I know I'm missing something. I looked all over your site pages about overflows and can't find a single item telling me how the return flow from the pump regulates the flow out of the main tank. See why I say I'm not ready for a salt-water yet? :) I know these are very basic questions, but most of the FAQs on subjects like refugiums and sumps are way more advanced than I am currently at, and the last thing I want to do is waste money and frantically e-mail you guys. I'd rather think this through first with lots of questions instead of getting a lecture later! :)
<Hee, I understand, am currently in the same predicament re diving! The overflow will simply drain any water in your tank above a certain level. How fast water rises above this level is dependant on the size of the pump putting water into the tank, therefore how fast water is drained off.>
Next, I'm trying to determine what to put in my refugium. I keep seeing deep sand beds as being one of the best options, but I'm fearful that since I read all of this on marine aquariums, that it would not work on my freshwater.
<It does to an extent.>
I'm not even sure how deep I should make it. 4"? 6"? Again most of these questions are answered for marine systems... but not really clear for FW systems that I found so I'd rather ask.
<4-6” will be fine, generally deeper is better.>
I do plan on putting plants inside of it, but I also want some place to finalize the nitrogen cycle. I'm tired of changing out water based on nitrate readings. I want to change out the water on a 25% to 33% as most people do instead of 50% or more per week because nitrates are too high. Yes, I know, different fish would have prevented that. Chalk another one up for inexperience before I found your web site.
<A DSB will have a positive impact.>
From what I'm gathering, I can remove the air pump and stones all together?
<Yes.>
Even if I use glass-tops on the main tank and the refugium? When you stated that I can provide the filtration inside the sump, don't you mean refugium?
<Yes, I’m sorry, most of the people asking here use the terms interchangeably, I generally don’t. Good that you see the distinction!>
I am not going to be using a sump, per se. It will be refugium only. Sorry if that wasn't clear before. Now that it is, how would I get the mechanical filtration?
<A filter sock if you wish to get rid of the canister.>
That's also what my canister filter is for. Will I have to keep it for that?
<You don’t have to, but continuing its use is a good option, you do already have it.>
Currently it provides all three filtrations, as it should since I have no other device in the tank for filtration of any kind. I was also going to eventually add a second XP4 canister to increase filtration inside the tank. Does this sound like a good idea or would that $200 be better spent elsewhere?
<Hmm, elsewhere. A fairly complete SW setup can very often be had used for less than this!>
Last, will I have to clean out the refugium as if it were a main tank? Gravel vac, etc.?
<Same as marine, a bit of periodic stirring within the top inch or so to keep detritus out of the sand bed and into any mechanical filtration.>
I'm trying to figure out how to do this if I have a DSB... moving this around is a big no-no as it oxygenates the bed which is the opposite I'm trying to do.
<Yes.>
Thank you,
John
<Welcome, you do have fair grasp of what it takes. Try and you will learn more than anyone can teach! Scott V.>

Re: Beginner Chiller Questions /Freshwater Refugium Qs  5/12/08
Scott,
Thanks again for the help.
<Very welcome.>
The dual box I mentioned does have two drain pipes at 1.5" a piece.  When you say single-bulkhead, what do you mean?
<The actual gravity fed portion that gets plumbed into the refugium, separate from the two siphon tubes that come over the tank. Honestly it sounds like one 1.5” bulkhead from Dr. Fosters & Smith, but the manufacturer site is unclear.>
I'm not familiar with the terms yet. The single ones I spoke of were at the same website, same manufacturer, but just single drains.
<Yes.>
If you fear air entering the siphon, does this mean that I should get two of the lower flow 900 GPH that are still dual-outlets?
<This would be better, giving you four siphon tubes for redundancy. I must be clear (and somewhat biased), I do personally advocate against HOB overflows and for drilling your, or any, tank.>
Would this be a better option? How else should I keep the siphon going?
<Maintenance and vigilance to keep the siphons unobstructed and free of air accumulation.>
What would cause air to enter the siphon?
<Air bubbles in the water getting sucked in, settling and accumulating in the top of the siphon tubes.>
The box I was looking at has a pre-box on it that is supposed to prevent air from entering the siphon tubes. Do these not work that well?
<The foam is on the gravity fed lines, I would remove these from the box altogether. Too much restriction of flow on the tubes, siphon or gravity fed.>
The only thing I meant by joining the outflows together was that I would "Y" them into a larger pipe. I suppose I don't know how large it should be, but I definitely would not restrict flow by using the same diameter pipe. I was thinking 2" or 3" pipe should be ok, but that is getting rather large.
<For dual 1.5” pipes a 3” will be needed.>
With one box that has two outlets, I can run both fairly easily. With two boxes that have dual outlets, it might become challenging.
<Yes, trust me, if you are at all comfortable with DIY, do reconsider drilling.>
If I did this route, I may get a 3" horizontal pipe and pipe the four outlets straight down into that pipe, and let that pipe be the inflow for the tank. Does this sound ok or is combining the flows like this still a bad idea?
<Into one 3” pipe it will be fine.>
I may be thinking too much like sewer piping and not enough like flow piping on this point.
<In this application it works much like a sewer pipe, gravity fed, no pressure.>
Also, with regards to the filtering... my refugium is going to be low flow, so I still need turnover in my tank, correct? I have roughly 450GPH max rated flow in my XP4 (I'm sure it's less due to filter material, probably around half?) currently, and my 120GPH through the refugium is definately going to be too low for the main tank if I need at least 6 times flow. Am I correct on this?
<More flow will not hurt.>
If so, I might need to pick up another XP4 then, right?
<Or simply add a $15 powerhead.>
As for the filter sock, that will probably be something I get to prevent any of the main tank's detritus from flowing into the refugium. I'll look around for some, but if you have any suggestions I'm open.
<Most the filter socks are fairly standard sizes with brackets that hang on the side of the refugium. Most Etailers good LFS will have this.>
I'd like something that filters pretty small materials as goldfish waste can be messy yet incredibly hard to get filtered out mechanically. I just recently went with double the filtration that the XP4 comes with by filling two whole baskets with sponge material made for the filter.
<Goldfish are messy.>
When you state that I need to stir up the bed to get the detritus into the mechanical filtration, I got confused. Do you mean that this stirred up material will enter the return pump to go back to my canister filter or the filter sock? <Yes.> Because I had not planned on using any kind of mechanical filtration in the actual refugium. Just wanted to make sure I was on the same page.
<We are.>
What kind of sand for the DSB do you recommend? I want a relatively neutral composition as I don't need to change PH at all (mine hovers
around 8.0-8.5). I also don't want to buy something that is specialized for marine aquariums and pay the premium for that if I don't have to. I do kind of like the black Seachem Flourite material, or even the miracle mud for the plants, but wasn't sure if that was a good choice.
<You will want a smaller grain than the fluorite for NNR. Possibly even consider a bottom layer of sand with an upper layer of fluorite with the two separated by some screen/thin Dacron felt material.>
A pure white sand like the beach would also look good in the tank, but I'm not sure what type I'm looking for. I also didn't see any FAQs on specific material, but if I somehow missed them I'd be glad to take a look if you would point me in the right direction.
<The idea of a FW refugium is not too widespread, but the same general principles that apply to marine refugiums will work here too.>
I'm hoping that a twin-tube 24" is going to be well enough for the algae and the anarchis I have in the tank. Right now they are both growing exceptionally well in my main tank, so I think this amount of lighting should be plenty for these. I was just hoping to avoid a costlier and hotter solution if I can go with regular 8000K fluorescents.
<Look for a 6500K or so bulb for these, you will get better growth.>
Currently I have a single-tube light on the 20H tank and it was growing algae pretty fast, so that's why I'm basing my decision on the fact that double power should be enough. They would be two 18" 15W tubes.
<Considering the close proximity the plants will have to the light this will work fine.>
Lastly, your point on the chiller is well taken. It brings up one last question for me though. You stated, and I've read, that stable conditions are far better than trying to reach ideal conditions with rapid swings.
<Yes, within reason. Stable at 110 deg may be a problem!>
With my species of fish, are they resilient enough to handle swings?
<To an extent, more so than many others.>
If so, how much is too much would you say based on your experience?
<A few to half dozen deg at most in this situation.>
I ask because I do notice that my temps can and do fluctuate anywhere from 3-5 C a day just with ambient temps around 72F. So it's rather large, and that too was concerning me and weighed in on my quest for a chiller. Does this change your prognosis at all?
<Not really, not for these fish.>
If not, I may actually reconsider the chiller as it's a lot of money.  But I'll get it if I might need it.  I'm getting more and more excited about this refugium. I was at first really hesitant because I thought it was way out of my league. Now that I know a DSB can help me out, and that I know a little bit more
about what I'm doing, I can't wait to get it purchased and running on the tank.
John
<You may be surprised to find much extra temperature stability with the extra volume/surface area with the addition of the refugium. Have fun setting up! Scott V.>

Re: Beginner Chiller/Refugium Questions 5/13/08
Thanks again, Scott! Your answers were very helpful!
<You’re welcome, happy to assist.>
When you stated, "I must be clear (and somewhat biased), I do personally advocate against HOB overflows and for drilling your, or
any, tank," did you mean that you do advocate drilling?
<Yes, very much so. I must say I have a 50% share in a company doing this. The company was started due to my passion for drilling for overflows, not passion because of the company! I will also point out to you there is nothing wrong with HOB overflows, drilling is just a far superior option (IMO)>
If so, how long would a pro shop take?
<A day maybe, possibly by appointment to get a fast turnaround. If they want your tank longer look elsewhere. The drilling process itself only takes five minutes. It is also easy enough to do it yourself.>
I ask because I have only my one 75 gallon tank that my fish are currently tenants of and it would be pretty rough on them going back to the 20H tank for extended periods.
<This is one point towards the HOB overflows, you do not have to tear down your system to use them.>
I also have no tools for drilling holes in glass at the moment (I just started off on my own) so I'd have to see how much those would cost. Last thing I need to do is mess it up! :)
<All you need is a drill (a cheap one will do) and a diamond coated holesaw. You can very well have both for under $40, depending on what deal you find on drills. Heck you can even rent one at many hardware centers!>
If you do like it, you like the drilling because it's a cleaner solution and less prone to failure I assume, right?
<Yes to both.>
Trying to determine which route to take. Also, from Drs. Foster and Smith the picture shows the two drains on the single 1600 GPH (rated on their
site) in the picture. I'll make sure of this before I order.
<Yes, do. This will make a huge difference in flow.>
I may also just get the two dual-outlet 900GPH and be done with it. We'll see.
Again, thank you for your help!
John
<Welcome, a FYI link for you regarding glass drilling. Consider all your options and what suits you best. No one method works for everyone! Scott V.>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwc3o_rGmLg

Re: Beginner Chiller/Refugium Questions 5/14/08
Scott,
<John!>
Got your link. If I wasn't so worried about my luck and having a cracked aquarium, I might actually try to do it myself. I'd like to do
it, but I'm still fearful. The last project I did myself didn't turn out so well!!!
<That is why I sent you the link. If you are not at all comfortable doing this, by all means don’t!>
I wouldn't even know where to start. I think for now
I'm sticking with the single box, dual outlet 1600 GPH 1.5" bulkheads.
Does that sound alright to you?
<Yes, plenty.>
The other option was the continuous overflow siphon dual bulkheads that don't use any siphon tubes, but those are almost twice the cost.
<I personally prefer the continuous siphons with the tubes, it tends to keep the velocity through the siphon portion higher and the flow smoother, leading to less bubble accumulation.>
If they are worth it, though, I'll get it. I want to get this right the first time with what I got.
<I here you my friend.>
Been looking around for some substrate, and see that I want a very
fine sand product.
<Depends, you will not want too fine a substrate in the upper layers if you plan on rooted plants in this FW refugium.>
First, I can't even find any so I must not know what I'm looking for. Second, I'm worried this will rapidly increase my PH level.
<It can, you do not want aragonite for your application. A silica play sand is likely your choice here.>
Do I need to counter this, and how high should I expect it to go? I already have pretty hard water here (lots of dissolved calcium), and the PH out of the tap is 7.2 and the PH in my tank is currently around 6.8.
<Don’t use a marine, aragonite, sand.>
Just want to make sure I don't have to worry about this on a constant basis with chemicals. I planned on going with a 6-8" DSB for Nitrate reduction, with plants to help and release oxygen.
<Sounds fine.>
This won't leave a whole lot of space in the 20H tank for water. What do you think? Worth it? Comments? Suggestions?
<I don’t see how it could not be worth it, the extra volume alone will benefit.>
Thanks,
John
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Beginner Chiller/Refugium Questions 5/15/08
Scott,
<John.>
One last question about the substrate:
Is aragonite the same as crushed coral or marine sand? What about Oolitic sand?
<All of the above are generally aragonite. Some “marine sands” will say somewhere on the bag that they are safe for freshwater use, in which case they are usually silica.>
I've been looking into getting some sand that is good for play grounds, but I've been seeing posts that some contain toxic materials even for humans, so I'd prefer to purchase from a reputable pet store instead of relying on the local home improvement stores unless you specifically ok that.
<There is never a 100% guarantee what you are going to get. Buying at an LFS is not a bad idea.>
Also, I think I'm going to reuse some previous substrate I had for my goldfish for the upper layers (around 1-2" thick) and then a 6" or so DSB with the finer material. This should help when cleaning the tank as I can carefully gravel vac or stir the upper substrate while leaving the DSB alone.
<Yes, do consider some of the materials we discuss before regarding separating the layers and keeping them that way.>
Thank you for all of your help.
John Lindsay
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

Re: Beginner Chiller/Refugium Questions 5/21/08
Scott,
<Hello John!>
If I don't use any top substrate and just plant the plants direct, do you see any problem with this with your experience?
<No.>
I read the substrate faq you sent me (not sure how I missed this in my search) and I was reading that
most plants grow in anything, but there are optimum substrates for different needs.
<Yes, there are!>
I was going to go with Black Tahiti Island Sand (FW or SW use, fine) which is black in color, around 5-6".
<Although I do like the look/idea of this sand, it is silica. This can be used, maybe consider SeaChem’s Black Sand Flourite also. This would be my choice for this application.>
I was thinking at first I wanted the white sand, but I think eventually the white sand will go dark the more I use it, so might as well start out with it that color.
<Agreed.>
Plus it will help to absorb light in the reversed cycle I'm going to use leaving less to bleed out into
the surrounding dark environment (the refugium does not fit under my stand so it will be next to the stand).
<A big factor.>
Also, with a filter sock; how in the world do I mount this? I was thinking I could get a PVC union and a draw-string sock and mount the union on the end
of the inflow pipe to the refugium instead of having to purchase a (inferior for my needs) 1" mount. Will this work or will the sock be under much more
pressure than I realize?
<This will work, I am developing a similar product right now.>
I don't want it falling off or anything, but the
retail mounts just don't seem to hold up to what I want or need.
<I don’t like them either, hence my current R&D towards something simpler/inline.>
Also, will I need to isolate my pump in some kind of box to prevent it from ingesting all sorts of this sand?
<You will want to assure sand does not get into the pump, yes.>
I was looking to either place it directly
on the substrate, on a square of acrylic, or in an actual acrylic chamber to help prevent it from sucking up the sand.
<The latter would be the best, with baffles. Something as simple as a cheap Gladware bowl can work for this.>
I really do appreciate all of your help on this.
<Happy to be of assistance.>
I'm getting closer and closer, and am looking to put in an order here soon and then I will report
back once I get it installed and running!
<Please do!>
John
<Have fun, Scott V.>

Re: Beginner Chiller/Refugium Questions 5/21/08
Hello,
<Hello again John.>
I'm setting up a refugium for my FW 75 gallon tank; I have written in on that topic separately with Scott's help. I will have a 6? DSB and a HOB overflow dual-bulkhead 1.5?. I plan on using some kind of PVC piping to input into the refugium. The bends will be 45 degrees instead of 90 degrees as explained in the refugium plumbing faqs.
<A good idea.>
I will be using an Eheim 1260 pump for return (I have a lot of head pressure to overcome, otherwise I'd use a 1250) and it will be passing through a chiller (which requires 480 GPH min).
<A good choice in pump. Consider adding a ball valve to the output to throttle the pump back if you feel you have too much flow.>
I was curious if I needed to hard-plumb the output of the pump and chiller back to the tank?
<No, personal choice.>
If it is best to hard-plumb, should I use the same diameter as the pump and chiller, or go larger?
<The same size is fine.>
I ask because it seems unnecessary to increase size just to decrease size back to the output fixture.
<Agreed.>
The output on the pump is ¾?, the chiller accepts close to this size, and the return U-pipes are also ¾?.
<3/4” is a good size for this flow.>
Thank you,
John
<Welcome, Scott V.>