FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone Behavior

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FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone Behavior

Related Articles: Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black, Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani, Anemones, Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones,

White banding on Rose Anemone 10/7/09
Thought maybe you could take a quick gander.

My rose anemones (the 2 pictures are of just one of them) have white spots/banding. What’s up w/that? They’ve been like this for awhile.. ( year + )

Never saw anything like it and Google didn’t report back anything…
Thanks
Carol

Hiding Anemone 8/1/09
Good morning.
<Tina>
I have spent a lot of time reading your site and have found it very helpful. It saved me a few times from buying something that would probably just starve to death in my tank. I have 2 bubble tipped anemones
<Hopefully clones...>
that I bought attached to one rock. They have been in my tank for 8 weeks and one of them is perfectly fine.
<The winner>
The other crawled under their rock 2 days ago and has not emerged since.
<The loser>
2 days before it went into hiding, my splash guard fell in the tank right near it. It looked fine and even ate the next day after that. My tank has been up and running for about 5 months. I have a 55 gallon with 220 watt T5 lighting, powerhead, protein skimmer, hang on the side filter, 5 gallon refugium (with algae and DSB), 2 inches aragonite sand, 30lbs live rock. I have 2 false clownfish, 1 yellow tang, 1 blue devil, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 anemone crab and 1 snail. My ammonia, nitrite and phosphates are 0. My nitrates are under 10. My calcium is around 330. My KH is about 10, my pH is 8.3, my salt level is 1.024. The temperature is 80. Should I try to look under the rock to see if the anemone is ok?

Or should I flip the rock to try and put it back in the light?
<Nor this>
Please let me know what to do.
Thank you so much for your help.
-Tina
<IF they are clones and you're determined to try and keep two Entacmaea in this system, I'd leave them both be... but if they are not clones I would not attempt this period. IF they are not clones/genetically identical, it is unlikely the one will survive... in which case I'd see the Net re means of moving one off the rock entirely (perhaps the "ice-cube" trick)... and see it placed elsewhere. Bob Fenner>

Re: Hiding Anemone 8/3/09
Good morning.
<Tina>
Thank you so much for your help. How can?
<??>
one tell if 2 Entacmaea are clones?
<Either from the dealer/supplier, observing the splitting oneself, or their apparent behavior toward each other... Have you read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the linked files above?>
The? anemone that was hiding did finally come out and move to a different spot on the rock, but they are both still on? the same? rock. Though at this point, both look healthy.
Thank you again.
-Tina
<Welcome. BobF>

Algae on Anemone: Bleached Anemone Making a Comeback. Anemone Health\Reading 6/28/2009
Hello,
<Hi Brian.>
I have a Bubble Tip Anemone, it is white and has purple tips.
<Bubble Tips should never be white. White indicates it has lost most of its symbiotic zooxanthellae.>
I have had it in my tank for about 7 months. It appears to be opening normally when the lights are on. I don't feed the BTA specifically but I feed my tank daily with Superveggie flakes.
<Some target feeding will definitely help a bleached anemone. Do read about their care here, and on the linked pages on top of this page.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm >
I have a 120 gallon mixed reef tank. I recently had a problem with Cyano algae but I think that the media in my Phosphate remover was getting old and causing some problems. It appears that the Cyano has stopped growing.
My water health appears good and my nitrates are 0ppm.
<OK>
Over the past month my BTA has started growing what looks like algae (brownish/red) on the tentacles. I have attached a pic. It doesn't look good, can you give me you thoughts on what is going on?
<Based upon the pictures, it is regenerating its zooxanthellae. This is a good sign.>
Please read the linked article above and give this article a read as well:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm >
Thank You,
<My pleasure.>
Brian
<MikeV>

RBTA lost Bubble Tips 4/29/09
Hello, thanks for the wonderful resource. I love and abuse this site as much as possible.
<If you love it, try not to abuse it.>
This is the first question, I could not find an answer too. I have had a green bubble tipped anemone and also now a rose bubble tipped anemone, both of which had bubbles for about two months, and then magically decided to do the wide open mouth thing.
<Yes this happens sometimes, the mechanism for it is not well known.>
I assume that my clownfish abuse there anemone like I do to this website, is that possible? What kind of anemone can withstand that?
<Clowns can abuse their anemone at times, but as long as the anemone is opened up and properly colored I would not stress about it loosing the bubble tips.>
I have a female wild caught true Percula about 3.5 inches long, and a smaller tank raised true Percula about 2 inches long.
They lost interest in the anemone now and are allowing the mushrooms in the tank to hose them.
<This can happen sometimes, no big deal.>
Please let me know what is going on.
<Unless the anemone is showing other signs of stress, I would not be worried by the bubble tips disappearing.>
<Before writing WetWebMedia again please take the time to correct spelling and grammatical errors.>
<Josh Solomon>

Re: RBTA lost Bubble Tips – 4/30/09
I am wondering why after a few months the mouth opens all the way up and then dies about a month later
<There are a bunch of reasons the Oral Disk can expand and close, changes in flow and light will cause these changes in morphology as can changes in feeding regimes. It sounds like this is a regular cycle for your anemone and as long as it continues to "recover" back to its normal morphology I would not worry about it.>
<Josh Solomon>

Green bubble tip anemone
BTA Splitting 4/26/09
I bought a bubble tip 2 weeks ago.
< Lovely animals for the more experienced aquarist. >
She had been doing great.
< Good to hear. >
The last 3 days she has been acting strange by not letting the clown near her and staying closed.
< Not a good sign. The hosting anemone should be at least 3 times the size of the clownfish. >
I then noticed she had reproduced.
< Hmmm... stress induced? >
Now she has gone dormant but still good in color.
< Dormant..?? >
The water conditions, lighting and circulation is fine. Am I doing something wrong? Please help I 'd hate to loose her.
< Anemones are delicate animals and should only be kept in aged tanks by experienced aquarist. The "reproduction" was a survival instinct brought on by stress. The trigger could have been one of many things or a little of all of them. New environment, shipping(if ordered online), size and/or aggressiveness of its guest clown could all have a hand in its stressed condition. The "dormant" look is most likely caused by the recent
splitting. If lighting and water quality are up to par as you say it should recover quickly.>
Many Thanks Machell
< You are quite welcome ... G A Jenkins>

BTA splitting or dying? 4-6-09
Thank you in advance for your assistance! I purchased a green BTA at my LFS four days ago and have it in my 30-gallon QT. All of my tank parameters are within normal limits: nitrates=0, salinity=1.025,
temperature=78 degrees, pH=8.3. I have a 150-watt MH lamp on this tank. I have never had a BTA split before. After searching your site for information, I am at a loss and would like a "professional opinion." I
know that a "gapping" mouth is a bad sign. I have read when a BTA splits it begins at the mouth. I cannot decide if mine is sick or splitting. I have attached a photo. I bought this on a Friday, and the LFS is closed
Sunday and Monday so I have not been able to contact them yet. I am just worried. Deb L.
<Hello! From your picture it looks like you BTA is splitting! Since you bought it on Friday it could be splitting from the stress so try not to disturb it much. You are welcome! Merritt A.>

Mmmm. RMF

E. quadricolor Behavior Observation 3/30/09
Dear Crew,
<Joe>
Thanks again for the ongoing commitment to aquatic life! The dailies are one of the high points of my day!
<Glad to hear.>
I don’t have a question today but wanted to share with you and your readers an interesting observation.
<Always welcome here.>
Several years ago I got the idea (from WWM) to remove my anemone from my reef and to set up an “anemonarium”, housing several bubble tip anemones. I am totally sold on the idea of keeping anemones in their own system- it’s really the most appropriate way to keep them IMO.
<Very much in agreement with you.>
I have on two occasions (in two different systems) held large wild caught bubble tips along with smaller specimens from divided anemones either from my own tanks or from friends. In both of these systems I noticed this interesting behavior: on occasion, the smaller “clones” would move quite unexpectedly to a location very near, or even touching the large wild caught anemone. In one tank, a 2” specimen traveled from the far right side to the far left side next to the large anemone in less the two hours. This was almost a 48” distance! On another occasion, a small anemone moved from a location of bright direct light and vigorous current to a much less favorable location directly below a large anemone. The anemones have never damaged each other from contact, in fact, they almost seen to enjoy interlacing their tentacles!
I would guess that anemones can sense what it is their vicinity and that perhaps, they are more social then we realize.
<Is likely the ideal location in the tank where the light/water current are in favor of the anemones.>
Thanks!
<You're welcome, Joe, and thank you for sharing. James (Salty Dog)>
Joe

Bubble Tip Anemone Question, not looking too smurfy 01/13/09
Hello Crew!
I wanted to let you guys know how helpful the site has been to myself and fellow reefers. I recently purchased a Rose Bubble Tip Anemone(RBTA).Unfortunately, the delivery was a bit longer than planned. It spent 2 days in the mail. Upon receiving it I started a slow acclimation over a few hours. After acclimation, I placed it in a QT tank filled with water from my display overnight for observation. It didn't look to smurfy and I wanted to be sure it was going to be OK before placing it in my display. The next day it had inflated, still had color and was attached to the bottom of the QT tank. I gently removed the RBTA and placed him in my display, where he almost instantly attached himself to the rock formation I built for him. I have tried to feed him some small pieces of krill with little success. During the day he kinda pulls his body into the rock with short bubble tips. During the night he fully inflates to double the size with long tentacles. My question is this. Are these signs that he is still adjusting after the stress of shipping and a new tank or is this normal RBTA behavior? After reading on WWM I'd say he's probably still adjusting but I wanted a second opinion.
<I do think it is likely just still adapting to its new home. The fact that it has attached to rock and is inflating and retracting are good signs. I would try feeding it at night when it is most extended... but do so gently, and maybe with small pieces of krill or enriched brine shrimp.>
30 gallon long
Sundial T5s 4 X 39 watt
Octopus NW-150 skimmer
20 gallon sump w/ small 'fuge
About 35 lbs live Rock
3 year old pair Ocellaris clowns(not hosting)
About 700gph water flow
I removed most of the coral but still have some Palythoa colonies and a small Monti Cap in it
Activated carbon
Calcium 400
DKH 8
Temp 79
PH 8.1
Salinity 1.025
Phosphates, nitrates, nitrites 0
BTW is it true that Scott V is a swim suit model?
<Well, he models it for us all the time... but I think you might be thinking of E. Borneman who actually was a male model before he got into reef keeping. ;-)>
Thanks in advance and keep fighting the good fight,
Adam
<Well, thank you,
Sara M.>

Entacmaea quadricolor Photo Response 10/16/08
Dear WWM Crew,
<Joe>
I wanted you to know that in addition to the daily FAQ’s, I particularly enjoy the daily marine pix.
<Ahhh! Gratifying... most all these pix are by me... and takes considerable time to load, size, link... am glad to find you enjoy them>
The latest one of the beautiful Bubble-Tip anemone triggered a response from me.
I have been keeping Bubble-Tips for several years with much success. They are a truly wonderful species and perhaps that most suitable for aquarium life. I have had 4 distinct specimens and each has displayed highly variable “bubbles” at different stages of each one’s life. Some have displayed huge ball like tentacles for years while others started out with the bubbles and have gradually changed to thin tentacles with the bubbles barely visible.
The last books I’ve read have had a few hypotheses for the formation of bubbles (or lack there of) such as level of light, feeding, or clownfish hosting. I was curious if you or any other crew members have read any newer research on the subject that would shed some light on this remarkable curiosity. Perhaps we’re getting closer to cracking this mystery.

Again, thanks so much for your dedication to the hobby as well as for life in general on this wonderful planet.
Joe
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Anemone Question, BTA reading 10/14/08
A little back round first, I have a 29gal BioCube, that I have had up and running for about a year.
my temp is at a always 82.2, SG is 1.023.
<Too low>
I have this bubble tip that I got about 2 1/2 weeks ago and the strangest thing is happening with it.
During the day when the lights are on it looks like it is dead (see attached pictures) http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u250/Baranovic/?action=view&current=1007081830.jpg
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u250/Baranovic/?action=view&current=1007081831.jpg
At night when the lights are about to go out and all thru the night he is open and looks great. (see attached picture)
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u250/Baranovic/?action=view&current=1007082022a.jpg
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u250/Baranovic/?action=view&current=1007082022.jpg
well maybe not great but better. anyway I someone told me my temp was to high so i lowered it to 79.8 and I am still having the same issue.
Any suggestions as to why and what to do?
<Yes. Read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the linked files above... re feeding, water quality... Info. not provided by you here. Bob Fenner>

Escaping Anemone! Beh., repro. 8/9/08
Hi,
<Brian>
Thanks for your time and for this great service.
<Welcome>
I have a 120 gallon FOWLR. The water has no measurable nitrates or ammonia, the SG is 1.023,
<A bit, too low>
I have 480 watts of light from a T5 HO fixture (equal numbers of actinic and 10000k bulbs), and all appears to be well. There is a 30 gallon refugium below the main tank with algae and live rock. I have a protein skimmer running.
About eights months ago, a rose bulb tipped anemone split in two, which was fun to watch and I hope indicates that all is well (or at least was) in the tank. Over the next several months, everything was fine. About two months I moved to the 120 tank I now have from a 75 gallon tank.
About a month ago, for reasons that are still a mystery, a new fish arrival in the tank killed all but two of my fish through the introduction of ich and several bacterial infections (like bulging eye, gill rot, etc.) This happened despite a five week quarantine of the new arrival in a tank set up according to the recommendations I found on this site. Before I removed the two surviving fish to a hospital tank, I tried to treat with ?reef safe? products
<There are none of "these" that are safe AND effective>
and Metronidazole to no effect.
So, now I have my fishless display tank, in which all the remaining inhabitants (two anemone as described above, four shrimp, an urchin, tons of snails, and tons of hermit crabs of several reef safe varieties) appear to be doing well in the fishes? absence.
I am curious about the behavior of one of the anemones, which is why I write. One of the anemones is located in the center of the tank about 10 inches below the surface on a rock. I appears to be very healthy, goes through the cycles of eating and expelling waste, and has a terrific appearance. The other anemone (which is obviously genetically identical) also appears healthy, but it has migrated from a rock next to its ?sibling? to a corner of the tank at the surface of the water. It looks fine, bit I am concerned about its choice of location: does it indicate a problem?
<Mmm, no... or at least, not necessarily... Makes "sense" does it not, that such behavior might take place, assuring distribution of the genome...>
How will I do a water change without having to either move it or expose it to air as the water level drops?
<Not really a problem... i.e., I would go ahead and drop the water level... the animal will move if need be.>
Thanks!,
Brian
<Bob Fenner>

An ID Question (flatworm) and Anemone Behavior Issues 6/27/08
Crew-
<Craig>
May I please get a positive ID the first attachment? From what I have read, it appears to be an Acoel flatworm of the genus Convolutriloba.
<Is a flatworm evidently>
If possible, can we confirm what behavioral info you might have and point me to it?
<Mmm, not following you here... what beh. info. re what?>
Additionally, can you speculate that these flatworms would be suitable prey for Chelidonura varians, the "Blue Velvet" sea slug?
<Might be... but if they're numbers are low (enough) I'd ignore them>
For some time I have wanted to purchase one of these animals, but have never went down that path since I knew they were specialized predators that I could not feed on a consistent basis.
<Correct... and when prey numbers are low... it/they "disappear"...>
Right now, these flatworms are in the midst of a population bloom in an aquarium that only has a pair of percula clownfish in a BTA. I have added a pair of peppermint shrimp, but they have not had an appreciable impact on the population of flatworms.
<Many are unpalatable... as you likely are aware>
Also, if these guys pose any risk to my aquarium inhabitants or even my copepod population I would rather introduce a predator or siphon them out. It seems that is the consensus of the responses on WWM.
<Okay; glad to find you've searched>
The second attachment is of a BTA I purchased about a month ago. I wanted to contribute to the knowledge base about some observations I have had with this animal. It is probably the 10th BTA that I have owned - the others I have sold to other aquarists after pairing various clownfish species and getting the pair to host in the anemone - it's just something I enjoy doing. It's often a challenge to pair clowns up (especially maroons) and even more so to create to commensal relationship between clowns and their host anemones.
<Interesting... that you state/find this symbiosis to be such, rather than mutualistic>
I believe I have read on the site that the behavior of BTA is more sedate than other anemones; meaning that while all anemones can/do wander, BTAs tend to find a rocky crevice and lodge their foot inside.
<Mmm, most so with successive asexual clones here>
I have found this behavior to be true of all the BTAs I have kept until I brought this one home. THIS anemone wandered around all night for about the first two weeks. Each evening it would fill itself up with water at the end of the day and then it would go on trips around the aquarium. Each morning I would move it back to the place I wanted it to occupy and it would attach itself there for the day. I thought, "Well, evidently the anemone will tell ME where it wants to stay and I will like it."
<Yes to the former, hopefully so for the latter>
Interestingly enough, the LFS had it in its display tank and it had never moved the whole month or so they had it; in fact, we had to chisel it out of the rockwork just to get it home. Both my tank and the LFS run MH lighting:
theirs a 250W at 10K, mine a 250W at 14K. I have about 15X water flow per hour, the LFS had about half that. About a week after bringing it home, I knew something was amiss with nocturnal roaming of the BTA, so I went back to the LFS to check their water parameters. It turns out they run their SG at 1.023 and my tank was at 1.025. When I lowered by SG to 1.023, the anemone promptly returned to the place I had been trying to keep it and it hasn't moved since!
<Interesting as well. Coincidence?>
The third attachment is of a carpet I bought the same day as the BTA.
Could you confirm whether it is S. gigantea, as I suspect?
<Looks to be... on the basis of the pedicle>
It is in a different system than the BTA and currently hosts a pair of black ocellaris clowns.... which is very sweet. The SG of the system I found this guy in measured 1.028. I took most of the day I bought it acclimating it to 1.026 SG, which is the highest I feel comfortable keeping the tank at. It was under a single 10K VHO bulb in a plumbed in 29G tank at the LFS,
<Much too low>
now it's under 400W of MH in a 92 corner bowfront.
Apart from its weak coloration, it looked great at the LFS and I have to say it does look a little less turgid these days than when I bought it (its tentacles are longer and not as "plump", but it eats weekly and has NOT moved once since I introduced it to the tank. I found this ironic since the guidance on WWM indicates that carpets tend roam excessively.
<Some do when first brought in from the wild, but exceedingly rare once settled. Heteractis magnifica are the kings of travel>
I guess we can try to observe general tendencies among species of aquatic life but there will always be exceptions.
<Well-stated>
At this point, I have a pretty keen eye to catch the behavioral cues that anemones exhibit to show how they are doing in a captive system. Would you suggest gradually letting the SG increase to 1.027-28 and see if the carpet really does prefer such a high SG?
<Mmm, no>
Part of me feels like it should have settled in by now and be looking better - I can say its coloration has darkened significantly (since it has better lighting) but it doesn't seem to be as large as it once was and I suspect the SG may be a little too low for its liking. I am not worried it would die tomorrow, but I am thinking long term here about what parameters I need to stick to.
<Near natural seawater, NNS>
I am sure that had I not been reading WWM for years now and researching some of the overarching principles of marine aquaria I would have at least lost the BTA. I remember back in my early days I probably would have been desperately trying to FIX something instead of focusing on stability and incremental changes, if needed.
<Ahhh!>
I definitely wouldn't have suspected SG. I wouldn't have even considered that my instrument might need to be calibrated. I definitely would have thought about ammonia, or even nitrate, as a culprit....but not SG. So many thanks to all you at WWM for your contributions to the many of us hobbyists out here. We are all definitely made better for your efforts in what we do.
Thanks!
Craig
<Thank you for sharing as well. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Possible E. quadricolor, BTA with Multiple Mouths – 6/8/08
Hi,
<Hello Katherine! >
I am attaching 2 pictures, I hope you can see what I am talking about. It is hard to get a good picture because it has taken over a "cave" in one of our live rocks and there is a rock above the cave as well. But there are 4 places that appear to be lips (?)... and a ridge midline.
<I’m seeing something in the pictures, but it is hard to tell for sure. Please see here: http://www.karensroseanemones.com/atwomouthrose.htm and let me know if this is what you are seeing. Also, since we do not know much about anemones with more than one mouth, could you please keep me updated on the status/progress of this anemone.>
Katherine
<Brenda>

Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed – 6/4/08
I am new to this site and am not sure where this will end up on the site---it appears to be a bit confusing to me. I have 2 questions.
<Okay! >
I found several articles on bulb tipped anemones and found some great information. Mine (Annie--2 weeks old) has just decided last night to fill with water and float all over the tank. I understand this behavior means she is not happy and is looking for a prime spot.
<Correct>
Also, she seems a little lighter in color---perhaps she is not getting the proper nutrition/lighting.
<It has expelled some of its zooxanthellae. This can be caused from lack of lighting, nutrition or another form of stress. >
However she refuses to stick anywhere and has very little reaction to tentacle stimulation---and refuses to eat anything.
<This does not sound promising. >
I used tongs to target feed some fresh shrimp, then brine shrimp---she may have eaten a small amount of a shrimp pellet.
<Brine shrimp is useless unless it is newly hatched, or enriched. Discontinue the pellet food, and try small portions of Krill, Mysis Shrimp, or Silversides. >
My tank parameters have been consistent and good, and all of my critters are doing very well. How long do they usual do the
float?
<Until they find a suitable spot. If one is not available, it may float around until its death. >
I know no one that has a different/better set up. Any ideas I can do? I also was given a small tentacle coral plate.
<Fungia? >
I also have read about their behavior----swelling with water at times. However-mine lives on a sandy substrate and the only indicator I see that she is alive, is that she is still orange. I see no tentacles and no food moving towards her mouth and refuses target feeding. She also has mucous around her.
<Is it getting any flow? What are you feeding? How long have you had it? >
I hope to hear from you soon-in the meantime I will continue to read more on your website!
<Good! >
38G, live rock---mushrooms and polyps (1/2 the tank)---"shelf" model---rest is sand and small shells
Nova extreme lighting-4 T5s-2 actinic blue, 2 VHO-Led light at night Penguin BioWheel 150 filter and a protein skimmer
<What kind of protein skimmer? Do you have any other flow? >
2 Percula clowns, 3 green Chromis, 1 black and white Damsel, 3 blue/yellow tail Damsels
<That’s a whole lot of Damsels! >
Several species of snail and hermit crabs,
<Crabs can be predators. >
1 scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 serpent star, 1 bristle star, 1 shifting sand star
T=78, PH=8.2, SG=1.022,
<This is much too low of salinity for anemones. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by adding pre-mixed saltwater as your top off daily. >
ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrates=5-10,
<Work on getting nitrates down to zero. >
calcium---350-400ppm, 12-14 dKH,
<Your calcium is a bit low and your dKH is a bit high. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm What is your magnesium level? >
phosphates=.5
<Needs to be zero. >
I also perform a 5 gallon water changes weekly and rinse filters daily.
<Filters do not need to be rinsed daily. How old is your system? How much live rock do you have? >
Thank you!
Christina
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed – 6/4/08 6/9/08
Thanks for the reply Brenda!
<You’re welcome! >
Annie (BTA) is still alive-I am not sure how-unless she is getting minimal nutrition from the shrimp that I feed the fish.
<It is likely getting some nutrition from the waste from the fish. >
I lightly squished her into the live rock before bedtime-and hoped she wouldn't die---But she actually likes the spot!!!
<Perfect! I’ll keep my fingers crossed that it stays. Just be careful when handling the anemone. They are very delicate creatures.>
Today I am going to buy some Krill, Mysis shrimp and silversides.
<Great! >
Re: the Fungia-I have no alt flow-I can buy a powerhead also.
<You will need the added flow. This may have been what the anemone was looking for also. Be sure to cover the intake to protect the anemone.>
I am feeding-frozen brine shrimp, shrimp pellets, sometimes fresh shrimp (small chunks), and Nori.
The Fungia is still bright orange. I have had her for 4 weeks.
My tank overall is a new tank---approximately 9 months old.
I put in 19 lbs live rock when I set the tank up.
I am bringing the SG up-as you said and yes, a lot of Damsels---a couple have a "gig" next week-to help cycle my mom's tank.
<I don’t recommend using fish to cycle a tank. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcyclfaq2.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
The parameters are better (ca2+ and alkalinity, ca=440ppm, and Alk=10dKH)
Plan:
Get Krill, Mysis shrimp, Silversides and Powerhead
Slowly increase SG
Get Magnesium tests
I am trying with frequent water changes to bring the nitrates and phosphates down.
<Have you considered a refugium and/or macro algae. More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm >
What is the best food for Fungia-I have heard many different opinions.
<Meaty foods such as the Mysis, Silversides or Krill. >
I will have to get back to you about the type of protein Skimmer. Thanks again!! Teena
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed – 6/11/08
Just a quick update--The Anemone is eating the Silversides and the Fungia is eating (I now actually see it) the Mysis shrimp!! Everyone if happy with the increase in flow! Thanks again and I will talk to you soon!
<That is great news! Brenda>

Anemone Splitting, E. Quadricolor, BTA – 4/1/08
<Hello, Brenda here!>
I need help. I think my bubble anemone is going to die because it punctured itself on a rock.
<It did not puncture itself.>
It was healthy (tight mouth, etc) when I received it and open(s) up normally but has recently shrunken a little. I’ve only had it for 1 week. The anemone set its foot down in a place and the rock has come through the mouth of the anemone. It only comes through the mouth it has not split...remains in one piece.
<Give it time, it will finish the split. Start checking your water parameters to see if there is anything that has stressed the anemone. Brenda>

Traveling Anemone, BTA, E. quadricolor – 3/16/08
Good Afternoon WWM crew,
<Hello Mike!>
Your site is a wealth of knowledge and I have tried to do as much reading as possible to see if I could answer my own questions.
<Thank you!>
Unfortunately, I'm still looking for answers and hoping you can help.
<Hopefully I can help!>
I have a 36 gal bow set up as a mixed reef. Age 8 months
130 watts of PC lighting, 65 W 10K and 65 W actinic (~5 months old)
<This is borderline lighting for an anemone. You may need to supplement with extra feedings to keep the anemone happy.>
11.5 on/ 12.5 off 50 lbs of live rock and a 2.5" live sand base, Running an Aquaclear 50 with Chemipure, a Bak Pak 2R+ and a Hydor
Koralia Nano (240 GPH) for additional circulation,

for additional circulation, Water quality is Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate <10,
<Nitrates need to be zero.>
dKH 9-10, calcium
340, phosphate undetectable, SG 1.0245,

ph 8.4, Temp range 77.7 - 78.9F

5 gal water changes every 7 - 10 days (use DI water for mixing)
Inhabitants - 1 percula clown, 1 small (~2") Kole tang,
<A 36 gallon tank is much too small for a tang.>
2 Green Chromis, a medium star polyp rock, a medium button polyp rock, 2 small mushroom rocks (1 green stripe, 1 red), a red open brain
and a small colony of pom pom xenia. The xenia was the only thing close to the anemone's original location, and was there when I put the anemone in the tank. Everything else was a minimum of 10" away.
<You have quite the mix of coral in there. Are you running fresh carbon? Do you have a sump or refugium?>
I've had a 4 - 5" rose BTA in my tank for 5 weeks now, and have had
some issues along the way. Had a ~2" maroon clown that was beating it up, that has since been removed and returned to the LFS.
<Maroon clownfish can be aggressive.>
Once the clown was gone a crab (not one that I added, must have been in the live rock somewhere) took up residence in a hole in the live
rock just below where the foot was attached, it has also been removed for about 10 days.
<Good!>
Thought all was going well, tank and inhabitants were all looking good. Through all of the issues my BTA stayed in it's original location,
then yesterday it moved. It was originally attached to a rock about half way up in the water column on the right side of the tank in an area where it appeared to be getting moderate current and has now relocated to the back bottom center of the tank behind all of my live rock (all in a period of about 10 hours). It is now in a location where it will get very little light and will be almost impossible for me to feed.
<It is best to leave it alone for now. If it is healthy, it will come out on its own, when it is ready.>
I have been feeding 2 – 3 times a week with small pieces of silversides and mysis shrimp. I've read enough to realize that I shouldn't try to locate it (I'd have to tear down half of my live rock just to get to it), that it would just cause more stress to the anemone. Just don't know what could have prompted the more.
<Is the anemone white (bleached)?>
I did a scheduled water change this past Thursday, but other than that there haven't been any significant changes to the tank environment that I can see or detect through testing. The anemone seemed in good health prior to the move. Could this be a stocking issue, do I need to get rid of some of the corals.

Not sure what to make of the situation, from what I've read, BTAs usually stay put once acclimated.
<No, Anemones of any kind, stay put when they are happy. An unhappy anemone will move, looking for a better place.>
Sorry about the length of this and thanks for taking the time to read it. I just want to do the right thing. Any advice or suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and best regards,
Mike
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: Traveling Anemone, BTA, E. quadricolor - 3/18/08
Brenda,
Good morning.
<Hello Mike!>
Thanks for your quick reply and suggestions.
<You’re welcome!>
In answer to some of your questions...I don't run carbon in the Aquaclear, I use Chemipure in its place. Would you recommend replacing the Chemipure with carbon? Or run a smaller bag of Chemipure with an additional bag of carbon?

No, I don't have a sump or refugium. However, I do have a crop of feather Caulerpa growing in the tank.

I guess I could do a larger volume water change to help address the nitrates, just don't seem to be able to get them below 5 ppm even after a water change. My Bak Pak skimmer is a recent upgrade and I hoping that it will do a better job of removing organics then the SeaClone I was using, thereby helping me to reduce my nitrates.

I really don't feel like I over feed (fish once a day alternating with different frozen and flake foods, soft corals 3X a week with DT's.) I'd welcome any other suggestions...Based on what I've seen and read, I would say the anemone is not bleached. The base/foot has a reddish orange color to it, the disk and tentacle bases are brownish with a slight green and orange iridescent coloring and from about mid way to the tips the tentacles are a bright fluorescent orange. (At least, prior to the move, this is how I would describe it.)
<Can you send me a picture of this? I am concerned that this anemone may have been dyed.>
By the way, it has since made another move yesterday into a cave in my rock work and is attached to the ceiling hanging upside down! It almost looks like it's trying to figure out how to get out. It is still inflating and deflating.
<It is not happy!>
I guess I'm in a wait, watch and hope mode at this point. Thanks again for your advice and help. Mike
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, BTA, Hiding, Acclimation – 3/16/08
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Akila!>
Thanks for your reply.
<You’re welcome!>
I add the baking soda just to maintain the pH as mentioned in Dr. Bob
Fenner’s Marine Aquarist book under maintaining pH (p.130). My pH is within the safe limits I guess.
<Just be careful not to add too much too fast. Anemones do not do well with a sudden change. Add it gradually.>
And yes I use the Compact Florescent lights - CFL. Each has 125W, 1250 Im, 6500K & 50/60 Hz. I have 4 lights that totals up to 500W & 5000. This is being used on a tank that is 27 inches deep, 37 inches long and 18 inches wide. Do you think it is adequate???
<Yes, I believe it is, especially if the anemone has enough rock that it can climb to higher levels if it needs to.>
I keep my temperature at 25C - 26C (78.8F) and the salinity at 0.024.
<Increase salinity to 1.026 gradually by topping off daily with pre-mixed saltwater.>
As I live in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) I bought the anemone directly from a collector and probably it was collected couple of days back. When I saw the anemone it was in a small tank with starfish and the place was pretty dark and the anemone was a little bit shrunken up. After directly putting it to the tank, only a day later the anemone got 3 times bigger than it actually was. Is this a good sign or a
bad sign???
<Anemones will shrink to expel waste and to acclimate themselves to their environment. If this is happening often, it is a bad sign. However, since this anemone has only been in your system a few days, I don’t see reason to be alarmed.>
And I do not keep any corals except some dead ones.
<Okay.>
Today half of the anemone came out but the other half was still under the rock. The entire day it was like that. During the day time the anemone got real big on the side that came out and the tentacles were long and reaching upwards. But at night it again went to hiding and also became 3 times smaller. Why is this change in size??? Is it a sign of bad health??? Or bad conditions??? Shall I take it out from there and close that hole with some stones.
<No.>
Because I can't even feed the anemone when its hiding as I can't reach its month opening.

Is it possible to keep some bits of shrimp meat on the tentacles. Is it possible to feed it like that???
<You bet! This is the best way to feed in my opinion. Hopefully the anemone is healthy enough to be able to hold on to the food. If not, place food near the mouth, without touching the anemone.>
I'll get some pictures of the anemone tomorrow and mail you.
<Great!>
I'll also buy another pH test kit along with Calcium and Alkalinity kits and send that data to you also if the kits are available at the LFS. Thanks, Best regards. Akila
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Hi Brenda,
<Hello Akila!>
I have attached some pictures.
<It appears that you have two anemones! This would explain why it went into hiding. Stress! Anemones do split in two when they are stressed, resulting in two anemones. Collection is enough to stress an anemone enough that it will clone itself. More information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonereprofaqs.htm >
I have another problem. I tested my water for dKH and Calcium. I have 15 - 16dkh & 370 - 380mg/l. Can this be right???
<It could be. What test kits are you using? Are you adding anything for calcium and magnesium? For now, stop adding additives. There is more information here regarding Calcium and Alkalinity: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Best regards, Akila
<Brenda>

E. quadricolor, BTA, Hiding, Acclimation – 3/14/08
Dear Mr. Bob Fenner
<Hello Akila, Brenda here this time!>
I have wrote to you a lot of times and you guys have been a real help to me over the years.
<Good to hear!>
I appreciate your advice with regards to what I am facing now. Some details of my 80G tank would be, I have 1 large canister filter (works as a refugium for me), 2 power filters (1500lph each), protein skimmer, UV sterilizer 5W, Compact Florescent lighting 6500K - 400W,
<Are you sure this is compact florescent lighting?>
& Chiller. My pH is 8.2-8.4(can't figure out the exact color from the chart), Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate <10. I do a 20% water change every month.

I also add 4 - 5 teaspoons of baking soda every month along with the water change to maintain my pH.
<Are you testing before adding this? Are you gradually adding the baking soda?>
I don't have fish in my tank at the moment due to some problems with lifted temperature that finally led me to buy a chiller. The tank is cycled and I ran it for 2 years with no problems. I currently have 3 tube worms, grape macro algae (I forgot the name of the algae), and some sails. After adding the BTA (Rose) 2 days ago it is hiding under a cavity inside my rock work. It did not come out for a day. I read a lot of FAQs on your site and learned that this could be normal until it gets settled in but is there any other parameters or something else I need to check.
<Yes, what is your temperature and salinity? How did you acclimate this anemone?>
Do I need to get any other equipment or something to make it feel more comfortable?
<Do you know any history on this anemone? Was it recently shipped? What kind of lighting was it kept under previously?>
I don't understand why it is hiding inside a rock.

Thought they liked bright lighting???
<They do, but I’m not convinced you have extremely powerful lighting.>
Can the tube worms be a problem???
<No. Do you have any coral in the tank? If so, what?>
Also how can I increase the calcium level in my tank. I heard the tube worms like more calcium in the water???
<Your LFS should have the additives you need. I do recommend researching before you start adding chemicals. Here is a good place to start: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Thanks in advance for your advice,
Best regards, Akila
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

New E. quadricolor, Possible Acclimation Behavior – 1/29/08
Hi guys!
<Hello Ron, Brenda here>
A little background about the tank first...before my question... 58 gallon oceanic with overflow with 75lbs LR, and 1" sand bed, 40 gallon refugium w/ 10-20 lbs live rock, 6 mangroves, Chaeto, and grape Caulerpa with a deep sand bed and some cleaner clams somewhere buried, and an Aqua C Urchin pro skimmer. Fish include a maroon clown, rusty angel, small blenny, 3 chromis, and a sergeant major. There are 2 medium sized finger leathers, another Kenya tree leather, assorted mushrooms / polyps, some xenia, and a toadstool leather. I recently purchased a rose anemone from Reef and Tails - the only LFS that is worth checking out (and I live within 40 minutes of That Fish Place.) Yesterday it appeared healthy directly after acclimation, but this morning I woke up to find the foot stretched out about 6 inches. It seemed as though the anemone was trying to close, but the clown would not let it. I have covered the anemone with a "strawberry crate," and the clown is letting it alone for now. However, now the mouth is visible, and the anemone's diameter increased about 1 inch since yesterday. What are your thoughts on this?
<It sounds like it is acclimating itself to its new environment. This sounds normal. Just to be sure, what are your water parameters, including temperature, salinity, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, calcium and alkalinity? What size tank, and what equipment do you have on the tank?>
Thanks, Ron
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Anemone normal behavior or do I have a problem? 11/18/07
Good day WWM,
<Hello Josie, Scott V. here.>
My name is Josie. I'm so glad your site is there for me to search; however, I am having trouble navigating the site. I love reading through the FAQ's and the articles but sometimes I just can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I have a question on Anemone Behavior. First thing’s first though. My tank equipment and parameters are as follows:
55 g show tank with 20 g sump with refugium and deep sand bed about 5-6" thick (sugar fine sand) in both the tank and the sump refugium that has now been set up for about 6 months (we cycled the tank using BioSpira for about 4 months before we added any inhabitants as we wanted to ensure the parameters were stable first.)
Lighting: 342 watt total with 1-150 watt HQI (10000K); 2-96 watt (Dual 460nm/420nm) actinic by Current/Sun Pac
Protein Skimming: Corallife Super Skimmer Needle Wheel 125 g
Canister Filter: Marineland Magnum 350 Pro (350 gph) (I also have PolyFilter in the canister for phosphate removal as well as other bad stuff)
Refugium: Two bundles of Chaetomorpha and One Grape Caulerpa and lots of copepods.
<One algae will likely choke out the other in time.>
Water Circulation in Tank: 2 Hydor Koralia 2 Water Circulation Pumps (600 gph)
Tank: 90-100 lbs of live rock, 1 smooth leaf red kelp
Tank Inhabitants:
1 - BTA (E. quadricolor)
1 - Condylactis sp. Anemone
<<... trouble. RMF>>
2 - small Maroon and Yellow Stripe Clownfish (observing larger one being more matriarchal and smaller one being more the "slave")
1 - Duncanopsammia axifuga (Whisker)
6 - Nassarius snail
6 - Dwarf Scarlet Hermit Crabs
12 - Margarita Snails
2 - Fighting Conchs
3 - Peppermint Shrimp
Tank Water Parameters:
Calcium - 380 ppm
Alkalinity - 15 dKH
<On the high side.>
pH - 8.2
Nitrates - 0
Nitrites - 0
Ammonia - 0
Temp - 78.8
Magnesium - 1300 ppm
Maintenance Regimen:
5% Water Change every Friday and Monday (vacuum sand every Friday)
<Should not need to vacuum the sand, only a very occasional stirring perhaps. Your livestock list should provide quite a bit of stirring in a 55 gal.>
Clean all filter media, sponges, etc. weekly.
<Good.>
Moonlights on in morning 30 min, then add actinic on for 30-45 min, then add metal halides on for 10 hours; then the MH are turned off, 30-45 min later the actinic are turned off and then the moonlight is turned off about an hour later.
Water test for pH, Salinity, Magnesium, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ammonia, Calcium, Alkalinity every Friday
Supplements: Purple Up every 2 days; Liquid Calcium daily; Iodine daily;
Essential Elements weekly; Strontium & Molybdenum every 4 days; Micro-Vert every 3 days
<Not a fan of so many supplements (especially the Purple Up). With your livestock list your water change regimen should be sufficient for trace element supplementation. If anything you will need calcium/Alk additions, and only according to your test kits. The iodine can reach toxic levels if not monitored.>
Feeding Schedule:
Mysis with garlic supplement to Clownfish daily; Mysis with Phytoplankton to whisker every 3 days; Mysis to both anemone's every 3 days

I have had a BTA in the tank for about 3 weeks and everything seemed to be doing fine. The Clowns have been taking great care of him and feeding him Mysis as I fed them and then 3 days ago I added a Condy Anemone to my tank (upon advise from the LFS as being OK. ARGH) and now the BTA has gone into hiding and been curled up into a ball most of the time. The clownfish are doing everything they can to take care of the BTA and coax him out of the cave he shoved himself into. I did not know at the time that Condy's were not necessarily a good choice for the type of tank that I have. The two anemones have not contacted each other; however, I'm not so stupid to think that they don't know each other is there. At least the BTA seems to be reacting to the addition in a negative way. Is this something that I should consider removing the Condy and returning him to the LFS or will this pass?
Josie B
<I would remove one or the other; anemones don’t play well with others; corals or other anemones. Some water changes should help, as well as some new carbon. I would lay off the supplements, if you don’t test for and monitor it, I wouldn’t add it. It makes for more work, expense and adds more paths for things to go wrong. Water changes are the best way for trace element addition with your livestock. Good luck Scott V.>

Re: Anemone normal behavior or do I have a problem? 11/18/07
Hello again WWM,
<Hello.>
Thank you very much for your advice. <Welcome.>I am considering purchasing the test kits for phosphate, iodine, silica, boron, copper, strontium, and dissolved oxygen. What are your thoughts on the electronic methods using probes instead of the reagents?
<The electronic monitors are nice, but by the time you account for calibration times and cost you might as well stick with traditional test kits. All the testing is generally not necessary, especially once your tank is well established, but I am also a nut about knowing what is in my water, it is kind of fun.>
I found a site that offers these tests in a laboratory setting: www.aquariumwatertesting.com weekly, monthly, or one time for a fairly nominal fee. <Interesting.>Which macroalgae would be best, Chaetomorpha or the grape Caulerpa? I would think the Caulerpa would be best but it seems there are mixed feelings on which is really better, if any at all. I have ensured that it gets light 24/7 to prevent it from going "sexual" as I have seen it called, and disintegrating.

The alkalinity is high and the only thing that I know that I can do that will bring that down is water changes. <Yes.> Should I do a few 10% instead of just 5% water changes?
<The amount of work is about the same. If you don’t mind the extra expense in salt the 10% wouldn’t hurt. Keep up on the water changes, this is where many aquarists start to slack off thinking everything is going fine.>
Thank you for the clarification on not needing to vacuum the sand, I would much rather stir up the top a little every once in awhile rather than vacuum it. The reason we do vacuum it is the detritus that can accumulate on the sand and makes it, well, unattractive. I worry that that it will harm the animals so I remove as much of it as we can.
<Good circulation and eliminating dead spots will keep this in suspension to be filtered or skimmed out. The idea with the DSB you have is to leave it undisturbed as much as possible to get anaerobic activity going on in the bottom layers.>
We have considered getting a calcium reactor to minimize the amount of calcium that we need to add and also to regulate the alkalinity a bit better.
<They are a nice addition and big investment. You can also see good results with a two part additive such as B-Ionic by ESV which includes most of the required trace elements.>
It might have to be an after Christmas purchase ;-) We have temporarily moved the Condy to the refugium until tomorrow when I can take him back to the LFS. The carbon was changed last week. We will probably change it out tomorrow when we do the water change. Again, thank you for the assistance.
<You are welcome, I too would have chose the BTA. Happy reefing, Scott V.>

E. Quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/14/07
Hello once again!
<Hello Ryan, Brenda here>
I have yet another question for you.
<Not a problem!>
It never ends, does it?
<No, but this is how we all learn, and why we are here.>
Thanks for all your great help so far and hopefully you can help me out with this interesting situation?
<I’ll try!>
I recently moved my bubble tip anemone and its clone to a new tank. The new tank was setup with existing live rock and water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae.
<This is not an instant cycle. This creature needs an established environment, including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6 months, one year is best.>
Everything has been going well, except the endless walking around the tank.
<It is not happy.>
Different flow and lights will cause that.
<The new tank is likely the cause.>
Yesterday I came home from work and found something interesting. The anemones had been fed the day before and looked a little unhappy.
<What are you feeding it?>
I took a look and found something interesting? I've posted this on three forums and no one has responded, which, in my opinion means no one has an answer? Today the anemones look much happier and the "egg sac" in the attached picture is gone. After I took the picture last night I noticed the tentacle started to tear open but I did not stay up late enough to see if anything was released? I added some carbon and did a water change just in case something in the tank was off.
<You need to keep a close eye on your water parameters.>
Thanks for looking, Ryan.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
It is just to the right of the mouth.
<Yes, I see this.>
Any ideas?
<Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here is a link to a thread that shows eggs inside of an anemone. The pictures in this thread are amazing. http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a good article to read: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm As far as what is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to me like one of its tentacles has become injured or irritated. What are the tank mates, including fish, corals and invertebrates? Have you noticed anything bothering it? Are there any possibilities that salt accumulated somewhere and dropped into the tank, landing on the anemone? What are your water parameters? How long has this tank been up and running? Did you transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how long did you leave it cycle before adding the livestock?
Thanks again.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. Quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/15/07
Hi Brenda, thanks for the reply.
<Hello Ryan, and you’re welcome!>
You are not going to like this?
<Yikes!>
I did the entire change over in one day!
<Ouch!>
After asking many people if it would be OK if I used existing live rock and water as well as some Chaeto, they all said yes.
<No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.>
So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were fine until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp I've fed for over a year. My ammonia was a little high the day after and I'm assuming that one or both of the anemones did not eat their "dinner", causing the higher ammonia.
<The ammonia spike is caused by the cycle. This is extremely toxic to anemones.>
I did a water change to fix the problem, a rather large water change and after that they both looked fine. Here are the water parameters, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10 DKH, salinity 1.025, temp. 79....I think that's it.

The tank has a couple of frags that were attached to the live rock, Montipora and that is it, no other corals or fish....oh other than the one Palythoa hijacker. Please let me know if there is a way I can fix this situation?
<I suggest getting the anemones out of there for a while. See if you can find someone local to take it in. If you are starting with a new sand bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6 months. If you transferred the old sand bed, it will take less time, but I can’t give you an exact time frame. It could take a few weeks, or even a few months. There are too many variables. You will need to keep checking your water parameters. Once everything has been stable for a while, you can put the anemones back in.>
I assure you I did a lot of questioning before I went ahead with this move and everyone said it was fine. Now I need your help, please. I did not check the links yet because I'm in a bit of a rush and trying to catch you today rather than tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: Entacmaea reading – 10/04/07
<Hello Jake, Brenda here filling in for Bob while he enjoys some time off.>
Thank you for your response.
<You’re welcome!>
I know my system is small, but I monitor the parameters closely, and do plan to upgrade. I received the tank and animals from someone who did not take good care of them, and I have nursed it back to health.
<Congratulations on the recovery!>
I was just wondering why the anemone was eating its own tentacle.
<I’m not exactly sure. I’m also not 100% convinced that is what happened. You stated that the anemone put the tentacle in its mouth and when it spit it back out it was a shorter tentacle. An anemone is capable of changing the shape of its tentacles. I would not be alarmed here. My guess is that the tentacle had a small piece of food on it. It is common for an anemone to place a tentacle in its mouth during feeding.>
I had read through most of the information and I did not see that question anywhere.
Again, thank you Mr. Fenner, you and the other staff have been amazing in teaching me how to care for my animals.
<Glad you find the site useful.>
I highly recommend the site to anyone who asks.
Jake
<Good luck Jake! Brenda>

BTA & Candy Cane Coral Concerns 9/11/07
Good Evening,
<Hi Jackie, Mich with you.>
I have what I would call a disastrous problem.
<Well, let's not panic just yet.>
About a week ago, my BTA decided to move from his location (of nine months) atop a large rock.
He attempted to travel through the rock (why not over the rock??)
<Heehee! Why did the chicken cross the road?>
to the <get to the> other side. However, it appears that he is stuck.
<Mmm, perhaps, but I'm doubtful.>
A third of his body is on each side of the rock, and half is inside of the rock. I don't imagine that he can survive for very long in this position. It does not appear that he is doing anything to remedy this problem on his own.

What, if anything, should/could I do to remove him from the rock?

On a different topic...what's the best way to feed (teeny tiny pieces of shrimp) a Candy Cane coral? It's such a slow eater that when I place food in its tiny tentacles, it's not long before one of my greedy shrimp
manages to confiscate the food.
<They can be buggers, can't they? I accidentally killed one of my cleaner shrimp one time by trying to scoot him away from a coral I was trying to feed. A little guilt there... The best thing I have found it to place the coral you are trying to feed in an isolation container while they feed. A floating breeder container works well. It's not the most convenient option but it does reduce the frustration levels you begin to have with the shrimp.>
I'm afraid it will starve to death.
<Your Caulastrea likely won't starve but will definitely benefit from supplemental feedings.>
Sincerely,
Jackie
<Cheers, Mich>

Rose Bubble Anemone, beh.... 9/5/07
I've had this Rose Bubble Anemone in the tank for about 4 weeks. He was a beautify creature, well inflated, feed well and the clowns were right at home in him. But the last 5 days he has started moving around the tank from rock to rock and spend all his time deflated and shriveled.
<::sigh:: He's not happy.>
I know anemone do this from time to time to expel waste and restock on nutrients
<True, but not for extended periods and they don't have to move around to do this.>
but I've not known one stay retracted for so long. Is he suffering some ailment or is this quite a normal thing with bubbles.
<He is indeed suffering. From what is the question. Have you changed anything about your set-up (lighting, additives, water flow, etc.)? Have you added any new livestock? How big is the tank? We can try to help but only with a lot more information.
Best,
Sara M.>

What is my BTA doing? Entacmaea quadricolor - 6/25/07
Hi Guys
<Hi Dave, Brenda here>
I have had a BTA for about 4-6 weeks now and everything seemed fine. I am feeding him a bit of cockle every 5-7 days and most of the day he stayed fully open. I have 2 x Common Clowns which have paid no interest in him what so ever (unfortunately).
<There is never a guarantee that clownfish will take to an anemone in captivity. Give it some time, it may happen.>
Every now and then he would pop into a crevice in my LR and out the other side, back and then forward to the front again. Saturday I saw what looked like a little pile of dust/parmesan cheese near his mouth but he seemed fine.

Yesterday (Sunday) he popped to the back of the tank and hasn't come out since (now Monday evening).
<It may be nothing to worry about. Your anemone does not know that you want it in the front of the tank for you to view.>
He hasn't moved around the tank since I have had him, and seemed happy and bubbly till then!!!!
<Is your anemone actually roaming around the tank, or has it just found a crevice in the rock that it is able to expand on either side of it?>
Any ideas?
<How long has your tank been up and running? What are your water parameters, lighting, tank size, amount of flow, filtration, tank mates, and any other equipment you are using? If you can get a picture without disturbing the anemone that would be helpful.>
Dave
<Brenda>

BTA and Other Anemones – 06/17/07
Good evening Crew. I have two questions that I hope have easy answers.
First: I have a BTA that seems to be doing quite well--was when I purchased and remains a nice shade of light brown, shows its bubbles fairly often, etc. One thing that concerns me a little, though, is that it seems to prefer locations that have limited light. I have a 110 g that is 30" high, illuminated with 6 x 54W T5s (3 10,000K daylights and 3 actinics--thinking of swapping 1 actinic out for a 10000K daylight, just haven't gotten around to doing it yet). I know BTAs like to perch in ledges,
<Mmm, only in captivity. In the wild this species is most often encountered in crevices... wedged twixt... and if disturbed, pulled back out and away from touch>
and I have plenty of rock, overhangs, crevices, etc. The other night I had to move the rock on which it was perched to deal with an unstable rock underneath, and the BTA moved and is now sitting under an overhang of rock, about 90% shaded. I realize that BTAs will move to find a suitable location, but is this normal?
<Mmm, normal... for abnormal/aquarium settings, yes... It will move itself...>
From what I read, my lighting doesn't seem to be too strong.
<Agreed>
Second: I purchased some really nice Florida aquacultured rock and noticed that the rock came with a few (4 that I can see) very small anemones. Some are striped (brown and clear) and some are clear. I have tried to identify them using WWM, but they are too small to make an accurate ID. My question is, should I be wary of any anemone that comes on Atlantic rock?
<Possibly... there are many "pest" types... some can/will displace, sting other life...>
Put another way, are there Atlantic anemones that one typically sees on rock that are not pest anemones?
<Yes... by definition, like a terrestrial plant "weed", unwanted... or at least not found to have purpose as yet>
As always, I appreciate the insight.
Andy Bulgin
<There are ref. works re... Maybe see the Paul Humann, Ned DeLoach series... Bob Fenner>

Bubble Tip Anemone, E. Quadricolor, Lost Its Bubbles – 6/3/07
Hey Bob F. and Crew,
<Hi Luke, Brenda here>
I have a question about my bubble tip anemone. It has become a droopy tip anemone. The tentacles have become stretched, and now lack the bubble tips.
<It is not completely understood why some of these anemones loose their bubbled tips in captivity. It is not a health issue. However, your description of “droopy” and “stretched” does concern me. Without seeing a picture and knowing your equipment and feeding schedule, it is impossible for me to know if you have an adequate environment for this animal. It is possible the health of the anemone is deteriorating. The stretched tentacles may be a sign of not enough lighting or food. If you can provide me with your equipment list, feeding schedule, types of food, water parameters, and a picture if possible, I will be happy to look into it further.>
I was wondering if you knew how to make it a bubble tip anemone again.
Thank you, Luke
<You’re Welcome, Brenda>

E. quadricolor Behavior 5/10/07
Hi there.
<Hello.>
A quick question that I couldn't find an answer to on the FAQ's.
<Okay.>
We have had a green BTA for about 3 months now that has a maroon clown hosting in it.
<Neat.>
The past Sunday, now Wednesday) we acquired more live rock ( had our tank for 8 months or so, just added more prettiness) and did some aquascaping.
<Was the rock precured or did you cure in a QT tank prior to adding to your display?>
Anyway, my question is this.
<Okay.>
The spot that my BTA has picked is no longer getting light, will he move on his own?
<Yes...it should.>
We have 2 power jets circulating water currents, and plenty of light from what I have read on your sight. I read that we shouldn't' try to move him, but will he move on his own?
<Correct...if you attempt to manually remove him, you may fatally damage the animal.>
What can we do to entice him out?
<You can get a powerhead or turkey baster and "impose" on it w/ strong flow to encourage it to move.>
Someone said that as long as the clown is feeding him he doesn't really need the light, but that doesn't sound right to me.
<A combination and balance of both is necessary.>
Any help will be appreciated!!! Thanks so much, Love your site.
<Welcome and good luck. Adam J.>

BTA expelling pink 3/23/07
Dear Bob,
I recently transferred my BTA into my 6 week cycled tank.
<You should not have an Anemone in a tank this young.>
I moved him attached to the rock his foot was on and in a bag so he was always under water.
After placing him in the tank he started to expel some round pink objects
(please see unclear picture).
<Likely poop and bits of undigested Prawn.>
I had just fed it that morning with some cut up prawn shrimp. Any ideas what the pink expulsion is besides shrimp?
<It's poop!>
The foot is a dark brown, the tentacles are green and full and it seems to be liking the new halide lighting.
<Please do brush up on the care of these creatures. Try doing a search using the term Entacmaea quadricolor.>
Best regards,
<Good luck with your E. quadricolor. Brandon.>
Jason

Re: BTA expelling pink 03/23/07
Dear Brandon,
<Hello again Jason.>
I know putting the BTA in my 180 gallon was a bit premature however its previous 55 gallon tank had sprung a leak and I had to transfer it over.
<You gotta do what you gotta do. I was just illustrating that these animals need established systems that's all. Further, I suggested that you read up on the care of these critters, because you seemed shocked by what is an ordinary occurrence.>
Most of the fish I was able to store in my QT tank however I did not want to combine the BTA in that small an environment as it is crowded already with the fish.
<Likely a stressful event.>
My question is what should I be looking for in the anemone to see if it is doing O.K. or if it is in distress?
<Droopy mouth, staying closed all the time, turning to goo.>
The water levels are normal 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates, ph 8.4
<Nitrite, Calcium, Alkalinity?>
The tank has 3- 250W MH with 2 rows of actinic bulbs, a 30 gallon trickle sump and a 2- gallon mud refugium with mangroves.
<Interesting setup.>
Thanks again,
<You are welcome. Brandon.>
Jason

Anemone seeking clown? - 3/21/07
Hello Crew,
<Hello, Brenda here>
I have a (I believe) unique, if not odd, question. Do anemones seek out clowns to host by moving around the tank?
<No>
I ask this because over the last 4 days I watched my BTA move from a location at the top of my live rock to the glass, overnight. First, it moved to the top left, back corner and stayed there for two days. Over night on the 2nd night it moved to the lower left back corner and was there for a day and a half (until yesterday morning). By the time I returned home from work last night it had moved to the lower left front corner. Last night, after the lights went out, my female percula went in and slept there for the night. The male stayed very close but did not go in. Neither fish had ever been hosted by the BTA in the past and have been together for several months. As I've continued to think about this I began to wonder if the BTA knew how to find the clowns. It sounds too weird to me to me to be true but the last three positions the BTA was in/attached to have been the last positions the clown pair has slept in the previous night. Is this just a coincidence or did I see another amazing behavior of our saltwater friends?
<It is odd, but is just a coincidence. An anemone will move to find a comfortable position. Hopefully it settles down soon.>
Bob
<Brenda>

New tank, New BTA Problems– 3/15/07
OK so here is my 24gallon AquaPod. Its been running for a month, set up with 20lbs. of great live rock in the display and in the rear chambers (LFS got it from a customers tank) with lots of nice coralline growth. Water movement is handled by a MJ1200 with a FLO attached, and I just recently added a second pump behind the rockwork that has a spray bar that pushes water against the rear wall and out towards the front under the rocks. A 70W HQI pendant (suspended 6" above water level) provides my light on a 12 hour duration cycle. (LEDs at night). A custom skimmer by sapphire aquatics completes the set-up. Oh, and my current water regimen is to top off with RO/DI/UVed water, and my water changes are 2.5 gal. weekly with filtered seawater that we san Diegans get for free! My long-term goal for the tank is only 3 or 4 small fish (1 blenny so far, and I would like to add one or two small clowns, and maybe an orchid dotty or a royal Gramma) and some mixed soft corals since this is my first reef foray. I would also like to take a shot at an anemone and see if I can create a symbiotic environment with the clowns.
<A 24 gallon tank is too small of a tank for this anemone, especially with corals.>
SO After 2 weeks, I added a Clean up crew (snails, hermits, and one skunk cleaner shrimp) to take on the accumulating green algae. The shrimp has been a treat to watch, and he eats readily when I add a small pinch of ground-up dry food (spectrum Thera A+....looks like quality stuff...) I have had a couple of the snails and one hermit go missing, and I’m not sure if they're being eaten by the shrimp as well.
<They are not likely being eaten by the shrimp. There may not be enough food available to them in a new tank. Crabs can not be trusted and have been known to kill snails, small fish and pester anemones. I am also not in favor of the bare bottom tank you have chosen.>
(haven't seen any harassment myself). Well, after another 2 weeks, the water parameters have all remained solid, and yesterday I took home a Starry Blenny, and a nice looking green bubble tip anemone.
<It is recommended to wait six months to a year before introducing an anemone.>
After an hour of drip acclimation, I was very careful not to damage the disk/foot, and was rewarded with a spectacular view for the rest of the day and even night (looks great under the blue LEDs). Well you can imagine my shock this morning when I thought the anemone disappeared!!
<They will roam to find a comfortable place. It may not find a comfortable place in its current home.>
Here is how he looks now in the second picture.
<Under the circumstances, this is normal.>
I just re-tested all levels (all nitrates, pH, calcium, phosphate, Alk.) everything reads fine....I've been all over your site trying to figure out if he's stressing, or if he's just digesting!!
<Did you come across a recommendation to wait six months or more before trying an anemone? It does look stressed. Digesting? Did you feed it and what did you feed it?>
How often does this kind of behavior occur with other BTA's and how long do they usually stay closed up for digestion??

I was thinking at first that the halide turning on might have shocked it, but it was under similar lighting at the LFS and I am reading that they like lots of light.

So, that is it! Sorry for the lengthy email!!

My new BTA is Shrinking, Entacmaea quadricolor – 2/28/07
<Hi Josh, Brenda here>
I just got a bubble tip anemone 4 days ago on a Friday evening. Sunday morning 10:30 it looked great, then I left and came home around 2:00 and it was shriveled up to about 1/4 of the size and excreting a white/clear slime.
<It is expelling waste.>
Also, the mouth was enlarged and looked inverted with some curly stringy stuff coming out.
<Yikes! Is the anemones mouth tightly closed the rest of the time?>
For all practical purposes it looked about 10 minutes away from death.

I checked all my water parameters and everything was great, I did a 10% water change anyway. We then left again around 4:00 and came home around 8:30 and he looked great, completely re-inflated and actually the overall body looked bigger than the day before.
<Great!>
He did well all day Monday until about an hour after I got home and he started shriveling up again and this time was excreting a brown substance which I am assuming was waste.
<Yes, anemone waste is not always the same color.>
He then continued to shrivel up as bad, or worse, than Sunday morning. I though he was a goner this time for sure. Nothing I could do at this point but to just wait it out. He was still that way when I went to bed around 11:00. I got up the next morning and checked him before I went to work around 6:30 and he was completely re-inflated again and yet still looked even bigger and perfectly healthy.
What is he doing?
<Possibly acclimating to your lighting. Do you know what kind of lighting it was kept under previously?>
From what I understand, anemones don't typically shrivel up that bad right?
<Wrong, they can shrivel up to almost nothing.>
I know it is hard diagnosing without a picture.
<Yes, but we still try.>
I don't know if it is just still acclimating to my tank or what.
<Yes, it is likely still acclimating to its new home, but will still expel waste from time to time.>
Does the anemone coming back what seems bigger each time have any significance?
<Not necessarily, would need to see a picture. My guess is that it is still part of the acclimation process.>
I have yet not even seen a picture on the web with one shriveled up as bad as mine was.

Any ideas?
<Most of what I’m reading seems normal. The curly white appendages you are seeing, is not typically seen externally on an anemone. Are you over feeding? I suggest meaty foods, no bigger than the anemones mouth 2 – 3 times a week. Make sure you have adequate lighting, filtration, and water parameters. Also make sure your anemones color is up to par, meaning no loss of zooxanthellae. If you have any more problems or questions, please give us your exact water parameters, including salinity and temperature along with your equipment list, age of your setup, other tank mates, and a picture if possible.>
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much - your website is extremely helpful for so many other things I want to learn about.
Josh
<You’re welcome! Good luck with your new anemone! Brenda>

BTA reproductive cloud 1/29/07
Hi
<Hi Richard.>
 I'm a little puzzled today.
<Well lets see if I can put you together.>
 Yesterday my GBTA was not opened fully. This has happened before and usually the next day everything is back to normal. Last night for a few minutes he/she release a dark fluid like substance. I couldn't figure out why. Today he/she looked much better and was almost fully open at about 10 inches across and I was thinking . Tonight, he/she started releasing a milky substance which, of course, clouded the water. This release has been going on now for about 30 minutes. What could be the reason for this release?
<Richard it sounds a reproductive event, E. Quadricolor can reproduce through means of sexual interaction as well as splitting (creating clones of each other)…others have had similar experiences which you can search for on WWM. I would not be concerned with the actual event itself, however I am inclined to ask if there have been any recent/drastic changes in the tank…and would also like to know the tank chemistry readings as well, just so that we can rule out any potential problems.>
What should I do about it?
<Large water change, run some chemical filtration media/carbon.>
Thanks for any help you can give.
<You are welcome.>
Richard
<AJ.>

Re: BTA reproductive cloud 1/29/07
Hi and thanks.
<You’re welcome.>
All water chemistry readings are within good parameters.
Calcium 425, Alkalinity 8.3 Nitrates 0, etc. I had done a water change of 25% (110 gallon tank) on Friday. Yesterday, some of the rockwork had sagged a little so I rearranged it which included a slight move on his/her home rock. Perhaps he's/she's stressed because of that change.
<Perhaps.>
Last night I changed 10% as I was almost out of water due to the fact that I had changed the 25% on Friday.
<Sounds acceptable.>
Today everything seemed back to normal except that the button polyps are still closed. The GBTA had great color. Its tentacles are full and plump but have rarely been bubble tipped. He/She is active today and has moved to a new location. I don't believe he/she is eating normally yet, because the Formula one just sat in amongst its tentacles and didn't make it to the mouth before the clowns and shrimp poached most of it.

Also, shortly after I fed it, it started to release some more milky stuff. I have Chemi-pure which I'll start right away.
I did read several articles late last night and noticed the pictures of the "smoking anemone." Those could have been mine except for the color.
I'll also do another 25% water change ASAP.
<Sounds like you’re on the right track.>
Thanks again, A. J.
<Anytime.>
Richard
<Adam_J.>

Re: BTA conditions/sexual reproduction 1/29/07
Hello again, A. J.
<Hi.>
A little more info.
<O.k.>
I tried to vacuum the milky substance as it was released last night. That event lasted about an hour. I did another 25% water change today.
<Sounds good.>
The anemone has moved again and is now looking somewhat smaller.
<This doesn't sounds good...>
I don't see another anywhere in the tank. I was thinking that he may have split during the night. Oddly though, he had a rather large white solid looking substance (poop? that finally disappeared)
<Or intestines "insides"....if it is unhappy.>
hanging from his mouth most of today and his mouth has been fairly elongated today, too.
<Also not a great indicator.>
His tentacles are fairly plump and they have good color. Should I continue with the water changes and if so for how long?
<a trio of so of 20% should suffice, and then continuing with your normal schedule.>
The Chemi-Pure is working. I will hold off on the feeding for a while.
<Sounds good.>
I've double checked all water parameters again today. They are the same as yesterday.

Again, thanks.
<Anytime.>
Richard
<Adam_J.>

Re: Bubble Anemone Lighting 11/20/06
so, an hour ago the anemone looked really good, now he is tiny and shriveled, attached to the same rock at the bottom he has been the entire time...is there anything I can/should do!!???
<Anemones will contract at times, but should fill back up within a 24-48 hour period. Were any chemicals/medications added to the tank?
Outside of this, there is not much you can do but keep a close eye on it. Dead anemones can quickly pollute a tank and threaten the life of the other tank inhabitants. Keep in mind that anemones are not the easiest of inverts to keep for any length of time.
James (Salty Dog)>

Bubble Tip went into hiding 11/4/06
Hello all, I am need of your worldly knowledge and assistance. I have a 135 gal. aquarium with 130 lbs. or live rock. It has been established for several months now with a 25 gal refugium and a aqua-c pro protein skimmer 2 65 watt actinic blue lighting and 2 175 watt metal halides. But that isn't my problem as you could have guessed, my bubble tip which is quite large (Ritteri sized) was introduced into my aquarium almost a month ago first acted like a Ritteri absorbing as much light as it can.
<Heteractis and Entacmaea species are indeed "light-loving">
 But lately it has become very scared of my halides, hiding and when they come on.
<... trouble>
Well just the other day it went to the top back of my tank above my live rock shelf after the halides turned off and stayed there until they turned on yesterday. Now it has forced itself between the back of the tank wall and my live rock shelf. It is completely deflated (trying to pry itself down to the bottom of the tank) and doesn't look good at all. As a remedy I have moved the live rock away from him so that he can move as needed,
<No need... can/will move if/when wants>
but that doesn't solve my ultimate problem. I believe that he has an issue with my lighting, maybe to strong for him, I don't know?
<Not likely the light/ing...>
I have had many anemones in my time (Ritteri, LTA, BTA, Sebae, Carpets), all under the same set up, they never tried to run from the lighting, so what gives with him? My actinics come on for 1 hour before the halides and stay on for 1 hour after the halides turn off, and my halides are on for 8 hours a day ( I also have a moon light which stays on 24 hours a day). He is on the right hand side of the tank, so I turned off the right side halide light in an attempt to get him to come out from behind my live rock shelf, but I think he doesn't know what to make of it all now. What should I do about getting him to come out, and what should I do about the lighting issue?
<Much more likely something (damage) to do with the actual specimen... I would move it to other circumstances given this information... Some place with no other Cnidarians. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Michael

Re: Bubble Tip went into hiding 11/5/06
Thanks for your quick reply Bob I do appreciate it. But you were right (as ya'll always are)

he came out of hiding and is running the tank like crazy. I need a game plan can you help me please? Just to clarify something, I used to have A LOT of anemones ( I am in the military and move quite often), so every time I moved I'd have to start over, but at the moment he is the only anemone in the tank (tank mates are True percula, cardinal, 6-line wrasse, mandarin goby) so it is a light bio load. But should I turn the other halide on after a couple of days (first let him get used to the single light which is doing quite well by itself)? Or should I go ahead and turn it on now and let him try to settle down with the original set up?

I can run it either way. Do you think that the BTA is damaged?
<Does read as such, yes>
He attaches his foot to everything and even hangs upside down
<Not good>
on occasion when both halides would turn on. He eats pretty good, not like a carpet anemone would, but alright., his mouth isn't sagging/or gapping open, and his disc is all intact.
<No obvious tears?>
Normally when both lights came on he would run to the deepest part of the tank and flatten out and deflate somewhat, but today with just one halide he swelled up and extended a little towards the light fully inflated. My tank is actually 40" long by 36" wide by 22" deep, almost a perfect square so I am wondering if 2 lights are too much for him (again most tanks of this size are usually about 6' long or so)?

What do you think about this new info, and should I turn on the other halide and if so what acclimation procedures do you recommend?
<Posted on WWM...>
Also I know from experience that anemones will roam the tank until they find that perfect spot (especially BTA's), but this guy runs my tank like it is NASCAR race non-stop, I have never had an anemone do this before and I do have gentle alternating wave making currents on 24/7, so I know it isn't my water flow? I am puzzled about this whole idea, please help again.
Thanks,
Michael
<There may be other (mostly chemical) factors at play here... No data presented re. I would re-read over the articles and FAQs files on Actinarian use in aquariums... Bob Fenner>

Re: Bubble Tip went into hiding 11/6/06
Thanks Again Bob, but no there is no visual signs of tears or damage to my BTA, and lately I have been reluctant to turn on the other halide, he seems to be doing well. But you believe that there are pest anemones in my tank.
<Mmmm... the other Cnidarian classes...>
 If so I cant see any, I am very picky about that kind of thing, also I have a peppermint shrimp to take care of any that I cant take care of myself (Joe's juice, although I haven't used it since I have introduced my BTA), but I don't see any other anemones pest or otherwise. He has kind of slowed down his movement some limiting himself to one rock, but runs up the rock when the lights are off (only the moonlights are on), and back down to the bottom once the actinics come on. But here is my next question which puzzles me to no end. Once he runs down to the bottom right after the actinics come on in the morning, he deflates and then the halides come on and reinflates and the cycle runs on. Where he is positioned (right where I feed the tank), I know he is getting his fair share of formula 1 and prime reef. Is this normal?
<Not atypical... especially for a newly-introduced specimen. I take it this is not a captive-propagated clone>
Or is he just digesting yesterdays food and is expelling waste getting ready for the next day, or there something more to it that I should be concerned about?
<Doubtful>
Thanks Again Bob for your quick replies and your help.
Michael
<Wish I could state, or speculate more specifically. Bob Fenner>

Re: Bubble Tip went into hiding 11/6/06
Oh also Bob, he won't come to the side where the halide is, he more less sits in the middle of the tank off to the side of the halide,
<Interesting. May well be photo-adapting>
he still gets a lot of light, but not like when both halides were on. If you want to call me about this dilemma my # is XXXX
<Mmm, don't "do" calls... and am out again on the morrow>
, and sorry for the second reply.
Thanks Again,
Michael
<No worries. BobF>

Anemone Splittings BTA beh., tank "size" 10/6/06
Hi Mr. Fenner & Crew,
<Marilyn>
14 months ago, my RBTA did a split, yielding 1 Clone which is doing super.
Well, 12 days ago, the original RBTA did another split and 2 l/2 days later, it split again, yielding twin clones : ) so now I have a beautiful tank with
the original RBTA and 3 clones! Problem: the original RBTA is discharging quite a bit of it's mesenterial filaments. Is this a bad sign or is this normal?
<Mmm... can/does happen... but these should be "brought back in" within a short while (a few days)>
I don't recall it doing this on the first split 14 mos. ago. My water parameters are as follows: pH 8.0, dKH 10.75, Alk 3.86, CA 395 - 400, & sg 1.025. Temp. 76.5 - 78.5F
<These all look fine>
Another question - I've been able to find a formula on how to figure the actual gallons of water a tank can hold but have not been able to find information as to how to figure out how many gallons of water is actually in a tank with 100 lbs. of LR and 30 - 40 lbs of live sand ( 2 inch. sand bed)
<Mmm, could be calculated given the known density of both of these... they are variable...>
displacement so if I do a 15 gallon water change, what would the percentage of change be? Do hope you can help me with a formula of some sort.
<Well... do you want to weigh a given bit of rock and sand and measure their displacement volume to determine densities? Density equals mass over volume, D= m/V... from here you can/could calculate the volume taken up by both (on the basis of their known mass... weight on this planet... as in V= m/D... and "take out" the volume (at about 231 cubic inches per gallon) of the rock and sand... leaving you with water volume...>
Thank you for your help to my two problems/questions.
Marilyn
<Welcome. BobF>

BTA sys., beh. 9/1/06
Hello there!
<Hey, Mike G with you tonight.>
I have cruised your site for quite sometime and while I've found tons of useful information, I haven't really been able to find the exact answer to my question.
<I'll try my best to help.>
Yesterday I got a bubble tip anemone and placed him in my 25 gal tank (I have about 20 lbs of live rock, two green Chromis and a percula clown, which I also purchased yesterday in hope of it bonding with the BTA
<Perculas and Bubble Tip Anemones are really a hit or miss match. True and False Percs tend to radiate toward the carpet anemones in nature.>
system consists of an Eclipse filtration system with original fluorescent lighting
<The system you speak of is an unsuitable one for the maintenance of most marine invertebrate life. Protein skimming is generally preferred to conventional filtration methods when dealing with these creatures, and anemones are especially demanding with regard to water cleanliness. Additionally, the light that you are providing this animal with is less then ideal. Anemones require very high amounts of lighting, and your chances of success increase with the amount of light you provide. In most cases, heavy power compact lighting is considered the minimum for a Bubble Tip, though I personally prefer not to keep them in anything less then metal halides. I strongly suggest that you upgrade your lighting, as it would be in the best interest of your anemone. An inexpensive skimmer might also make a wonderful purchase.>
and he seemed to do fine. I originally put him in the center of my tank on the live rock, and later in the evening he had moved up on the glass towards the top of the tank, near the current from the pump. He looked fine, bubble tips and all. This morning I woke up to find him in the same condition. I went out for the afternoon and when I returned, I found him in the same place, still adhering to the glass, but completely closed up (his tentacles were not even visible) and was excreting a brown slimy substance (which I have read is relatively normal). I realized that I might need better water flow since they tend to like a little current, so I went out and purchased a powerhead and got that running.
<Good choice/research.>
After a couple of hours, he began to open back up, but his tentacles were completely deflated and dull in color. His mouth was also open fairly wide which I know is a bad sign.
<Indeed it is.>
Now, his mouth has closed a bit (it is still open about ? inch (or a little less) in diameter) and some of his tentacles are plumping back up, but his color is still bad and I can see some slimy whitish/clearish stuff coming off of him. I have tried searching the site and haven't seen exactly this scenario. I think it might be dying because of the open mouth�.is there anything I can do to save it
<I don't think that the anemone is currently in a critical condition. If you provide it with proper current, lighting, and filtration by way of powerheads (be sure to cover the intakes with a sponge to prevent waking up to anemone puree), a new lighting system (I'd invest in a 100 watt metal halide fixture in your situation, they are not all that expensive these days and would do wonders for the creature. If not, look for a decent power compact setup (I'd consider 200 watts of power compact to be your minimum, though more is always a good thing). Also, look into getting yourself a skimmer.>
and why would this happen so quickly \when all of my water parameters seem to be perfectly fine (pH ~8.2; nitrates ~20mg/L; nitrites 0; ammonia 0; SG
~1.023) and all other livestock is doing well?
<Your nitrates could be lower, and your salinity could be higher (anemones tend to do better at salinities of 1.024 to 1.025, and the less nitrates that are present, the better.>
Thanks so much for your help!!
<You're very welcome. Good luck! Mike G>
Ali Myers

Bubble Tip Bleaching...Not Enough Info...Not Enough Light 8/24/06
Hi,
<Hello>
I have had a BTA for 1 year now. When I purchased it it was a maroon color, I was told it was from the Red Sea region, and that the color would not change. After about 5 months it had significantly changed in color. It was a cream color, now it is completely white. I went back to my LFS and explained the problem. He promptly told me that that was no problem and all I had to do was add phytoplankton every other day. So I purchased some and have administered it properly and kept it refrigerated. The outer portion has regained some of its color but the part that fans out and has the bubbles is still white. The bubbles are so small they are almost non-existent. The BTA is housed in a 29 gal. with a PowerGlo light approximately 7 inches from the BTA.
<You are very lucky to have kept the BTA that long under those conditions. Your tank is too small to house anemones and the lighting you are using is
no where near enough. Water parameters can change too fast in a small tank, something anemones do not take well. Lighting on your tank should
have been somewhere near 4 to 5 watts per gallon.>
I put an Iodine supplement in the water once per week. This has not seemed to help at all. I feed the BTA weekly with fresh shrimp. Should I purchase a different light, different plankton supplement, different food or anything else?
<Yes, larger tank (minimum of 55 gallon), better lighting, but unlikely your present anemone is going to reverse it's condition. Read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm>
Thank you so much for your help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Bubble Tip Anemone/Systems 7/10/06
Love your Site, Very helpful,
<Thank you.>
Couldn't seem to find an answer to this question. Is there an optimal placement for a bubble tip anemone?
<Will choose a site that favor their requirements.>
When I first introduced him to my world, I had him placed mid level (vertically) in the tank. Its a 2ft tall 6 sided 25 gallon tank.
<Not a good tank for anemones, very little surface area per gallon.>
I know now from research that I should have at least 50 gallons for anemone.
<At least.>
Anywho....He moved around a bit, I moved the liverock he was on to the top of the tank, about 6 inches from the surface, and he seems to be doing better, stays in one spot, although my little clown wants nothing to do with it. Is one location better than another, or should the anemone choose his own real estate?
<The anemone will choose his own location. Hopefully you have enough lighting to satisfy it's needs. Do read here and related articles and FAQ's above title bar. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
Much Thanks, Dave
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Anemone... health, beh. 06/14/2006
Hello Sir/Ma'am
Once again I am calling upon your wisdom to help me along. The problem is with my anemone. I moved him from an established 40 gallon running 2x175 MH about a week ago. His new tank is a 200 gallon reef tank. The parameters for this tank are as follows: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5 (all with
Salifert), Calcium 400, DKH 10.6, PH 8.1 all day and night (running a RDP fuge with Chaeto and DSB) and specific gravity of 1.024. The lights on the
tank are 3x250 MH. The anemone was doing fine for 2 days. I proceeded to feed him a chunk of Silverside and he regurgitated it a day after. Since
then he has been small (not closed) with a bright green color and stringy tentacles. He grows to his normal size closer to the end of the photo period
and returns small once the lights go on. Please help with some idea. I have ruled out water quality and chemical warfare because of running the
Chemi-Pure. I can only deduce that maybe he suffering from some light shock and may need to adjust to the increased lighting???
Thanks so much,
Matthew McGhee
<<Matthew: Do you know what type of anemone it is? How long have you kept it? Assuming you have kept it for awhile (at least several months) and know how to take care of it, then it is probably just going through a transition from one tank to the other. I would suggest to keep trying to feed it small pieces. Hopefully, in a few days, it will be happy again. Best of luck, Roy>

Re: Anemone... health 06/14/2006
Roy,
It is a rose tip bulb anemone. He has been kept for about 6 months in a 40 gallon tank. He has been in the new tank for a total of 5 days. The first
two he was out fully. I think that maybe he is getting used to the new light cycle. I forgot to mention that in the last tank the lights were on between
2pm and 10pm and in the new tank they are on at 8am to 5pm. Do you think that is the issue?
Thanks so much,
Matthew McGhee
<<Matthew: RBTA anemones are pretty hardy and can go through some dramatic looking changes from time to time. Since you have been successful at keeping it for awhile, I think it is just getting used to the new tank and you don't have anything to worry about. As far as the lighting change, it will adapt. Best of luck, Roy>>

Another Anemone Purchase
Hi, <Hi> I recently purchased a green bubble tip anemone. I don't really feed it too often because the maroon clown that i have usually does. <Make sure its getting enough> I was just wondering if you could tell me why it shrivels up sometimes. <Normal behavior for excretion or a number other reasons.> It will just do it randomly. Is this bad? <Depends.> Is this a sign that i should be doing something different. My water quality is good enough for the other corals in the tank. <What is good enough? Things in this hobby aren't really every good enough. Your corals may look fine, but if your water parameters aren't right on target they could just be slowly declining. Test your water, do frequent water changes and make sure everything is optimal. I also have to say that these anemones don't really do well in a tank unless you are an expert at keeping them. Do research on the website - correct lighting, feed schedule, so on... more than likely you will see its eventual decline in your tank. Good luck, Jen S.> Your reply would be appreciated.

Bubble tip beh. 3/15/06
I have a bubble tip and it keeps hiding under the rocks.

I was told to just leave it alone and it would find its best spot.
<Generally good approach>
I have left it alone and it has stayed in place for 10 days. It seems to get smaller each day and will show some tips in the morning but when the lights come on within 2 hours it pulled all of its tentacles in and looks like it just a blob. The clown was very happy with it when I first got it but it wants to be able to love on it not have a blob.. any suggestions.. Thanks Dale
<... Please read re BTAs on WWM... There is insufficient information offered here, but a good deal posted there re this species aquarium husbandry. Bob Fenner>

Anemones/Behavior 2/18/06
Hi, <Hello Dori>
I have been reading non stop about anemones and have been unable to locate the information I need. Could be panic is setting in? <Maybe.> Anyway, I hope you can help.
I have had this bubble tip anemone for a few months and after the first week of adjustment he settled in quite nicely and the clowns took up residence. About two weeks ago he began to behave differently. His tips shriveled and his mouth extended. He would close up and later emerge, mouth ok, but his tips never achieved their original form. A few days ago he decided to relocate, and has not stopped since. He has made his way all around the tank and up the glass to the top. He is currently hanging upside down on the front glass part of the tank. ok - I stand corrected - he just launched himself. He is not torn, nor is he oozing anything. his mouth is relatively tight and his tips are very tiny now.
Is he dying? should I remove him to prevent the rest of the tank from issues? the clowns still follow him most of the time, but on occasion they hang out in the torch. (so much for loyalty). <Dori, when anemones are on the move it generally indicates they are not happy with the conditions present. It may be lighting, water quality, too small of a tank creating constant parameter shifts, etc. Provide a little more info please. A good article for you to read on BTAs. Gives some insight as to keeping BTAs.>
Any advice?
Thanks in advance <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Dori

Bubble Tipped Anemone Mobility 2/8/06
Hi Crew,
<Hey, Mike G with you this afternoon.>
I have a current issue at hand I would like your input on.
<That's what we're here for.>
I purchased a while back a Rose bubble tip anemone from a reputable online company specializing in rare corals, colorations, etc., with a good history
of shipping great specimens. This purchase was no different in that the BTA was very vibrant and acclimated quite well.
<Always good news.>
I placed the anemone in a spot of the rockwork that is a little closer than ? of the way up in my 250 gallon tank. He promptly inserted his foot in a crevice and seemed happy. This location provided moderate flow (tentacles swaying back and forth), and good light from one of several 150 watt HQI Metal halides directly overhead. Since then, the crevice his foot has been attached to has allowed him to alternate facing either the front or the back of the tank (depending on his mood I guess). This remained the case for about the first month.
<Sounds ideal for your anemone.>
Recently, we woke up to find that the anemone had walked upward to the next rock higher (very top of the rockwork maybe 12” from the top) and very
strong flow rate blasting from a near by power head (power head rated at 900 gph). His tentacles are flailing around in the current produced from the
power head and now closer to the same 150 watt MH light as it basically moved mainly vertically and slightly over horizontally. My main concern is
that this 1 ft. move has now placed the anemone dangerously close (about 2”) from my Spaghetti finger leather (Sinularia flexilis). My leather was
shipped attached to a very small round rock and I had to utilize underwater epoxy glue to attach him otherwise I would have already moved him. I am not sure how easy it will be to break the rock from the epoxy and what kind of stress that would be for the leather…although the alternative may be worse.
<In my experience, underwater epoxy doesn't hold very well at all, though I suppose I may only have access to bum epoxy. If you can't remove the leather, you can use powerheads aimed at the anemone's foot to force it to move to where you want it to. That, or you could merely wait for it to get to where it's headed and move all corals out of the way as it goes.>
I am afraid that the anemone may be intentionally encroaching on the leather and either one or both will be damaged/killed.

In case water parameters are of issue here, ammonia/nitrite 0
<Perfect.>
nitrate 2.5
<Fine.>
pH 8.4
<Fine.>
SG 1.025
<Fine.>
temp 76.5 – 78
<A touch low for an anemone, though not at all serious in the least. ~80 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal.>
PO4 0
<Perfect.>
dKH 12
<Fine.>
calcium 380
<Low - should be ~400-450. I seriously doubt this has anything to do with the anemone's flight, however.>
I do 10% weekly water changes with Tropic Marin Pro Reef mixed/aerated with RO water and aged for one week.
<You have good taste in salt and a wonderful water change schedule.>
Daily top offs with buffered RO water, skimmer pulling about 1 cup of great skimmate daily.
<Sounds like an incredible system! Good luck with it!>
Best regards,
Steven
<Same to you. Mike G>

Rose Bubble Tip Anemone 2/7/06
I just recently bought a Rose Bubble Tip from a fellow reefer and it is gorgeous. It is doing very well in my tank. My question is, when I
purchased it and brought it home I notice some slight discoloration on him. Now I know he came out of a very well taken care of tank with metal halide
lighting, but he seems to have white around the base of his tentacles and some spots of white on his tentacles. Could this be some kind of nutrient
deficiency or hopefully not some kind of infection. Thanks for your help.


BTA beh. health 2/3/06
Hi <Hello Danny.> I've just got a green BTA & it has shriveled up a bit & has something by its mouth that resembles mucus. I would appreciate it if you could advise me if this is normal or is it going to die. My tank holds 200 litres & has sand bed & about 40 kilos of living rock with efficient skimming. All the levels seem fine but the BTA has only been in the tank for about 4 hours, am I jumping the gun? Thanks Danny <Don't pull the trigger, your BTA is just ridding itself of waste. Give it a chance to adjust. James (Salty Dog)>

BTA behavior 12/29/05
HI guys, <Hello>
I have a question about my anemone. I have two bubble tip anemones in my 29 gallon tank that are awaiting the cycling of my 55 gallon. The tank has 130 watts of power compact lighting over it and both anemone are approx. 6 inches from the surface of the water and about 10 inches form the light. My
rose BTA is doing exceptionally well and is almost always open and accepting of food. Recently my green BTA stays closed up more and his tentacles never puff up as much as they did about a month ago. He still accepts food, but instead of him immediately stinging the food and closing up around it, like he used to, I have to place it near him while he slowly closes around it. Nitrate, Nitrite are 0. ammonia is about .25 ppm. I'm thinking ammonia my
be the problem, but I wonder why it isn't affecting the other anemone? Any light you could shine on my problem would be great. <If it were the ammonia level it would affect the other anemone also. You may be reading the lowest level your test kit will read. Are you dosing iodine/iodide? This does help along with adding a trace element supplement. Your lighting is borderline at best for a 55 gallon tank. I'm thinking you may be feeding too often, no more than once a week. Also try soaking the food in Selcon or another vitamin product. Anemones do produce most of their own food by photosynthesis. This is why proper lighting is so important. Keep in mind that anemones are not the easiest creatures to keep for extended periods of time. Read here also. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm> Thanks a lot. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

BTA color 12-14-05
Your guys' website has been a huge part in how well my aquarium has done over the past year. Thank you guys so much.
<Always glad to help.>
I recently purchased a green BTA which is doing great under 130 watts of light. I have been trying to
find out if there is anything I can do to brighten up his color a little more than it is. He is mostly a dull green/brown with very green tips. He
looks spectacular under actinic and moonlights, but looks a little on the bland side under daylight.
<You will often see a washing out of color with full spectrum lighting.>
If there are any suggestions they would greatly appreciated. I'm considering upgrading to the Coralife 280 watt halide
AquaLight, if you think more light would help his color.
<It is not the quantity of light that produces color, but the quality. You will want to look into changing your lighting spectrum to more of a 20K or actinic style.>
Have seen this stuff called Black Powder by Marc Weiss' supplements. I don't know if you've heard anything or seen results from it. It says it can greatly
increase color and growth, but many forums I've seen say his supplements are mostly sugar and don't do much over a longer period of time.
<From my experience with that product I would have to agree that it is not worth the time or money. You would be better served to use that money toward more water changes, frequent carbon changes, and switching your light spectrum to the more blue that you are wanting. Travis>
Thanks again
for all of your help.

Inflated Bubble Anemone Tips 12-05-05
I started with one BTA, and over the course of a year I have ended up with four in my aquarium.
<Gotta love that.>
The original split the first time, and one kept the nice inflated tips. The other ones just have long skinny tentacles.

My clownfish live in two anemones, that always stay entwined, as if they were one. My question is why did only one anemone keep the nice bubble tips, and is there anything I can do to encourage the other anemones to inflate their tips?
<It is not known why BTA's lose their tips. Some say it is due to water conditions or placement in the tank. Not much you can do to change them, but keep your water as clean as possible and let them find their own happy spot in the tank. Travis>
Thank you very much.

Bubble tip anemone - splitting? 11-28-05
I have searched a number of items regarding anemone splitting and unable to fine anything directly related to my situation. Just purchased a bubble tip anemone about a week ago.
<Bubble tips are prone to split after being moved.>
There is a hole where I believe the mouth should be. In other words the anemone is now the shape of a donut. Is this the early stages of splitting or is this the beginning of the end?
<Could be either one. If it begins to deteriorate, remove it.>
The anemone remains attached to the rock and the tentacles continue to inflate and deflate.
<That is a good sign.>
If it if splitting, how long does this process usually take?
<A healthy bubble tip can split over-night.>
Thank you in advance for your reply. I have found your site very useful.
Regards,
Rick
<Travis>

Wandering Bubble tip Anemone 11/16/05
I have a bubble anemone in my 55 gallon tank. They are settled on a 10 pound piece of live rock at the top (should they be in sand?)
<No. BTA's are reef dwelling. They should be in/on rock.>
Days after I got it, it split in 2 and both were hosted by my 2 perculas I have 1 18000k light and 2 blue actinic lights in the tank.
<Splitting is often stress induced, so it is no surprise that it occurred when the anemone was moved.>
One anemone became twice as large as it was originally but the other is constantly moving, has only a few tentacles sometimes, and is usually closed. The anemone is always in weird shapes and doesn't look that good. What's happening to it?
<It is common for the "daughter" anemone to move about after a split. It also sounds like yours may have split very unevenly, possibly due to injury. As long as the anemone is safe from pump/powerhead inlets, I would let it wander (not much you can do anyway). If it settles soon, it will probably be OK, if it doesn't it may not make it, but it sounds like you parent will be OK. Best Regards. AdamC.>
In most of the FAQ pages I read on Caulerpa, the problem seemed to be on how to get rid of this stuff rather than my problem. I know some of you (Anthony) prefer Chaetomorpha rather than Caulerpa, so I thought maybe I should try that instead. Does the Chaetomorpha have the same nutrient utilization capabilities as the Caulerpa?
<Chaetomorpha does not grow quite as fast as some Caulerpa, so it does not take up nutrients quite as fast, however it does seem less sensitive and far less prone to "crash" and re-release nutrients into the tank. Also, for reef keepers, it is far less noxious to corals than Caulerpa.>
Second question, which is unrelated: I have an approximately 30" Zebra moray that is very healthy and active, coming out of the rocks on occasion to take a look around. What I have noticed though, is that my 4" Bicolor dwarf angel will take bites or nip at the body of the eel any time he comes near him. The eel will jerk anytime this happens and it doesn't appear to be doing any damage to the skin, but I am afraid that it will discourage the eel from coming out and/or stress him. At this point it is only occasional but thought I would check with you guys to see if this is anything I should be worried about. Again thanks for your dedication and help. Steven R. Vejil
<This interaction could go on forever without any serious problem, but there is a fair risk that the eel will either eat the angel or the angel will begin to cause injury or intimidate the eel from coming out to eat. I would suggest separating them, especially if the interaction gets any worse. Best Regards, AdamC.>

Entacmaea quadricolor and Clown Behavior 10/9/05
If you cant have two anemones in a tank without poisoning each other is it okay to keep them if they split into 2 or more?
<Yes keeping a clone of an original anemone would be one instance where keeping more than 1 in the same tank would be acceptable.>
Also I just got a bubble anemone and my small clown fish just started swimming in it but the other won't (percula) and they used to swim side by side all day, is there any way to get the other clown (this one is larger) into it?
<There is no way to force him into it, he will go into when he wants or he won’t. It’s quite common to see a tank with clowns and anemones, and no hosting “action” occurring. The other possibility is that the other clown will not allow his/her partner in the anemone. It’s also quite common to (when viewing a pair of clowns) see the female resting in the anemone with male just outside patrolling the territory. For more on clown behavior check out Joyce Wilkerson's book “Clownfish.”>
Also how big will this anemone get in a 55 gallon tank?
<Have seen Entacmaea quadricolor at 12” in diameter but in captivity they often split before reaching such a size. Make sure to read up in the WWM FAQ’s re: BTA. Adam J.>

Entacmaea quadricolor behavior 10/9/05
I had my anemone for a week now and my small percula now started using it. The anemone looked healthy until night when its mouth (center) was open wide and its tentacles started to look thinner. Do you know what’s happening?
<Sounds like normal night time behavior for Entacmaea quadricolor. They will usually attach their “foot” within the rockwork and retreat or deflate during night. Also remember that anemones are mostly composed of the water that surrounds them, from time to time they will expel the water within them and take on new water. Read in the WWM Re: BTA Care, Adam J.>

Anemone, BTA, Clowns 9/23/05
Good Day,
I have a BTA with two maroon clowns hosting it. The BTA has since split into 3 and my maroon clowns are so comfortable that they have spawned numerous times and are still spawning. I will be moving to a place which is 5 hours drive away and intend to move all my fishes and most corals along. However, I am still contemplating whether I should have a BTA.
From a small BTA, it split into 3 and all 3 have grown very big. From short tentacles, they have become long and stringy. I understand that clown fish do not require an anemone in captivity, but I would like to give them a comfortable and familiar 'home'. I would also like to minimize the possibility of the clowns hosting my other corals, such as frogspawn and Octobubble. Is there any particular anemone that maroon clowns would host that doesn't grow quickly? If BTA is the only option, are there any reasons why it's tentacles would grow long and is there any way to prevent this? <No reason I can think off. If I were having the luck you are having with the BTA's I would leave well enough alone. The BTA's are generally the first choice for the maroon clowns. James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you for your time and advice. <You're welcome>
Ai Kun

Curling Tentacles on RBTA 9/5/05
Mr. Fenner or Mr. Calfo,
<Marilyn>
I've checked the FAQ forum on your site and have not been able to come up with an answer to my question so am writing to you. A bit of background: I've had my RBTA for just over a year now and he/she split in 2 on July 10 : ) the clone is smaller since it wasn't an equal split. Anyhow, both original RBTA and Clone are doing fine up to now. Clone is still doing fine but the original RBTA is displaying twisted and curled (like a cinnamon bun) tentacles. I can't figure out why this is happening.
<Could be a few causes...>
My water parameters: Temp. 76 - 78 degrees F., pH 8.2, SG 1.026, dKH 11.5, Alk. 4.11, CA 410, NO2 (0), NO3 (10) NH3 (0) I'm doing a 15 % water change weekly. RBTA diet is a variety of Mysis, raw shrimp, formula one flakes, and prime reef. I'm also dosing the tank with DT Phytoplankton and Zooplex. My tank is a 60 gal with approx. 100 lbs. of LR and 2 inches of live sand running on a Bak Pak 2R Reef ready skimmer.
Please advise as to why the RBTA's tentacles are behaving this way and what I need to do to untwist these tentacles. It hurts me to see them twisted like that.
Thank you for your help in this matter.
Marilyn
<Could be "nothing", but I would "step up" the feeding of the one specimen... try three times a week... for a while... And re-direct some/more circulation (likely via a powerhead, submersible pump) toward its general direction. Bob Fenner>

Re: Curling Tentacles on RBTA 9/5/05
Mr. Fenner,
<Marilyn>
Thank you for your speedy reply re the curling tentacles on my RBTA. I will increase the feeding as well as re-direct the power head to send more flow to the original RBTA. Actually, both anemones will be receiving more water flow since they're on the same LR.
Thank you again.
Marilyn
<Ahh! You're soon to be in the Entacmaea business! Bob Fenner>

- BTA Problems -
Hi,
I am so sorry to bother you and I have looked through WWM to find my answer but I do not think I have time! My BTA has been eating and fine! I asked a member of wet web about what other things I can put with my BTA. Someone told me other cnidarians. <<No...RMF>> I have had ONE little green zoanthid and I added a colony of star polyps and a very small colony (7 or 8) yellow polyps with the longer tentacles and one hairy mushroom. My BTA is shrunk and excreting clearish/whitish mucus. What is going on? He did that ONCE before due to a PH change, but I put him in the sun and he came back. Is this just the BTA excreting waste?? <It's probably not waste. Most often this is a defense mechanism, but can also be part of a process where their mucus is shed and then replaced. Still, I would give a hard examination to water quality and perhaps execute a change to keep everything on the up and up.>
He has been puffy and fat and happy. I added those additions about 3 or 4 days ago. Should I remove my pink star polyps and the yellow polyps and or the one hairy mushroom and return them to the store? <Well... at the very least I'd look at their placement - they shouldn't be to close to each other.> Or is this a normal BTA thing? My Rose BTA is my favorite! The tank is 55 gallon within all YOUR good water condition parameters. PLEASE HELP... yes I typed in BTA and Bubble Tip Anemone excreting mucus, and that type of wording for search and I am not finding my answers as I think I am wasting precious time! <Would still suggest you read through all our BTA FAQs as you will learn something at then it won't be a waste of time.> HELP!!!
<Cheers, J -- >

Bubble Tip Anemone Follow-up
The anemone has moved (I'm not surprised) and it's only the second day. I anticipate it moving more. It moved while my lights were off. It moved behind my rockwork where it gets little current and almost no light. I understand I have to let the anemone be and let it find its "spot". I am worried about my SPS and zoanthids in the tank. I don't want to lose all my corals because my anemone is trying to find its "spot". Should I move my corals temporarily out of my tank? If things get out of hand, how do I remove an anemone from a rock?
Thanks!
>>>It will continue to move for a while I think. Best thing is to follow the advice I already gave you, and go from there.
If you have to remove it, the foot can be carefully and SLOWLY pried from the rock.
Your decision on moving the corals, I can't make that call from here!
Good Luck
Jim<<<

- The Motivation of the Rose Anemone -
Hi, I read a lot on your site, and I still have not come up with a answer to this one. I purchased a rose anemone last night. I sit it on a rock in the middle of my tank a big rock, the rock had a hole in it about the size of a quarter, maybe a little bigger. why would the anemone decide to go in the hole???
<There is no way to know the motivations of anemones.> <<Is what this species does. RMF>>
And can it get out with out hurting itself? I never dreamed of it doing this or I would not have sit it on the rock. I checked my water and everything is good, will he ever come out? What you can see of him, still is pretty and red. Should I try shaking him out, don't want to hurt him but I don't know how to get him out, or is happy there???
<I think you need to be patient... if your lighting is adequate, and your water quality excellent, then this anemone will make an appearance in the not too distant future. Being moved from one system to another can have a large impact on an animal made mostly of water - things you probably didn't think to check like alkalinity do make a difference when moving these animals from one system to another. Give it a week or so and it should be fine, all other things being where they need to be. Cheers, J -- >

- Rose Anemone, Sound Familiar? -
Hi, I purchased a rose anemone, I placed it on live rock in the middle of my tank. What I didn't think about it doing was going inside of a hole in my live rock. I can't get it out and don't know what to do, just let stay in the hole???
<Leave it alone.>
The hole in the rock is only about the size of a quarter... can it get out on its own with out it hurting it self???
<Yes... the animal is probably 98% water or more, can shape itself as needed to get in and out of such spots.>
I know it got in there on its own, and can't figure out why it done this. It had a lot of room on the rock to sit, all my water test are good, I am running 2 SmartLite pc 96 10,000 k and 2 55 watt 10,000k. My tank is 135, nothing bothering the rose, still can't figure out why it done this. What you can see of it is still red and looks good. Will it ever come out of the hole?
<It will come out eventually, but it sounds to me like you don't have enough light in the tank to keep this animal healthy for a reasonable amount of time. I suggest you consider an upgrade to metal halide if you want to treat this animal correctly. Cheers, J -- >

BTA behaviour
Dear Crew
<Peter>
Hope you are all well.
<Yes my friend>
I admit it - I gave in to temptation and bought a bubble tip anemone. I was assured it was one of the easier ones to keep, and the store will always take a healthy or slightly ailing purchase back if it turns out to be unsuitable. That seems a good service.
<Yes, an admirable offer, warranty>
Now the question. My anemone looks excellent most of the time. It lives at the bottom of one particular rock it seems to like the shape of, and spends half a day at the front, and then goes through a hole low down to get to the reverse side. Having squeezed through a relatively small hole to move position, it then looks excellent for another 12 hours or so, having shriveled up for a short time. At the moment it looks - well, great, and the percula clowns love it. Does this shriveling up to get under the bottom of the rock sound healthy?
<Does happen... in the wild less than in captive conditions... If it is eating, appears healthy otherwise...>
Sorry for the daft question.
All the best from a not sunny England.
Peter H
<Do please take a read through our BTA materials: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm scroll down. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

BTA all balled up
Good afternoon,
<Hi there>
Yesterday, I did an extensive search through the bubble tip anemones, only to not find exactly what I was looking for. Hopefully someone out there could shed some light on the subject, or at least put me at ease. Here goes:
First the basic info -
37 gallon
Fish: (2) ocellaris clowns, (1) 3 stripe (which will be on his way out soon enough), and a lawnmower blenny.
Inverts: (1) peppermint shrimp, (1) emerald crab, various red & blue leg hermits, Mexican turbo snails, Astrea, Cerith and Nassarius snails.
Corals: a few yellow polyps, brown buttons, white and green striped Palythoa, various colored zoanthids, Ricordea, and mushrooms.
Lighting: (3) 65 watt pc lighting (12 hrs on, 12 off)
Filtration: (1) AquaClear 50 - sponge cleaned weekly, and carbon replaced every single month without exception.
Skimmer: Excalibur hang-on
Water movement: (1) Maxijet 1200, and the outputs from the skimmer (powered by a Rio 800) and the AquaClear keep things moving pretty good - I'm looking to add another Maxijet in the near future.
All together, probably 60 lbs live rock, and a shallow sand bed.
my BTA has been in the tank for almost a month, and the tank itself went through a cycle that seemed like no other! It has been stable for about the last 6 to 7 months. The tank is fed once a day with a mixture of Nori, raw shrimp, freeze dried brine, and formula 1 flake, (all soaked in Selcon), along with DT's phyto every other day. over the past weekend, I decided to add about another 10 lbs of base rock.
<This is a small tank/volume, a bunch of life to be moving about, adding so much in such a short time span...>
Of course when adding the rock, other things had to be moved around and re-stacked. I also looked at it as re-arranging things a bit to break up territorial issues between my clowns and my 3-stripe.
<This aggression will only get worse in time...>
Anyway, after adding the new base rock, and doing some scraping and cleaning, and so forth, I did my weekly water change. I specifically waited to the very end to do the water change. The rock my BTA attached itself to happens to be the back of the rock with all my Palythoa and zoanthids.
<Oh oh...>
I had to move this rock up a little, and off to the side a little. The new location appears to have similar water movement, but it happens to be exposed more to the light. I specifically did not try to move the anemone itself, as I didn't want to tear it or stress it any further than what I had to.
<Good>
After the whole cloud of crap finally started to settle / filter out, I cleaned the sponge in the filter to remove excess garbage, and changed my carbon. All water parameters appear to be in good standing: pH - 8.2- 8.3, alk - normal (Red Sea "generalized" test), temp 79? - 80?, specific gravity - 1.025, Ca - 460 (a little high), ammonia - 0, nitrites - 0, nitrates - <10.
I don't test for anything else, and rarely test the amount shown here. usually only sg, pH and alk. Now, the BTA has only opened up maybe halfway, but usually stays tightly balled up (looks like a purplish red onion). It still has all of its coloration (purple- maroonish colored base, very green tentacles with pink tips). When it is partly open, the mouth looks to be very tight, and I can't see any signs of decomposing. It's not expelling any waste that I can see. I know that they will move wherever they want to go when they want to, but this is the second day, and it appears that it hasn't moved an inch. Hopefully I'm right and everything will be ok within a couple of days. Should I attempt to feed it, or should I wait until it is fully open?
<I'd definitely wait>
Right now, my intentions are to just leave it alone. Any comments, suggestions, constructive criticisms? Hopefully I'm over-reacting. Sorry for the long winded message, but I wanted to put as much info out there as possible. Thanks.
<IMO you are not over-reacting... There is a potential disaster brewing here... with the small volume, so much chemical change going on and trying to keep this anemone in the presence of the zoanthids... Please read re these animals: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm particularly their chemical incompatibility, danger to humans... In this tiny tank you will either have to be super-diligent in making water changes, checks on quality, use of chemical filtrants... perhaps add volume, filtration, other mediating influences through the addition of a refugium... or get rid of the zoanthids... possibly the anemone in time. Small volumes are just inherently too unstable... to house mixed cnidarian populations, particularly some groups. Bob Fenner>

Bubble Tip Anemone
Hi!
<Good day>
Thanks for a great site! I have been reading the information and the FAQs, but have to admit that I'm not still sure if I have an answer to my question. Every time I saw a topic reading "hiding BTA" I thought "Ah, I found it!" But... I write to you from Sweden, and the marine aquarium hobby is not that big over here and the anemone information even smaller.
<Nice country, been there in the 60's>
I have been reading about anemones for over 4 months now and thought that I knew enough to buy one. So for about 12 days ago I bought a green tipped bubble anemone. I put it on a living rock...
<These anemones prefer being on the bottom>
... and the next morning it had wandered a bit and sat (seemingly) comfortably in the crack between two rocks near the bottom. It sat there for 4-5 days and seemed to be fine. But just after that it moved behind and under the rock, clearly out of light. It has been sitting there for more than a week now and I can see its body sticking out from the crack and it has some of the tentacles open. From all I have read about anemones, this is not what I've expected it to do! It's sitting in a really bad position so I can't feed it in order to compensate for the poor light condition at where it's sitting. I have 2x54W deep blue T5 tubes and 1x250W 10K MH. My Ca could be too high (I read a remark in the FAQ), since here in Sweden I've heard that a value between 430-450 is preferred, but the FAQ remark stated 375-400. But this couldn't be the reason could it?
<No>
The Ca is the same behind the rock as in the front.
<Don't understand what you mean by this>
Salinity is 1.023 and other values are normal.
<Invertebrates prefer a higher salinity, say 1.025>
I'm puzzled! I thought if necessary it would climb up towards the light or to a location with higher current. Now it's sitting in the dark spot with almost no currents!(?)! In the marine store it was sitting in the crack between a piece of rock and the tank bottom. Any ideas or suggestions would be welcomed!
<Anemones will usually move to a place of their liking. I'm thinking the sudden introduction of the 250w MH may have caused this. You should slowly acclimate the anemone to the more intense light as I would doubt your dealer had MH's over the tank. Keep reading the FAQ's on bubble tips, I'm sure there are other similar questions there. For your convenience I posted a link here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/e_quadfaqs.htm
Good luck with your BTA and keep reading. James (Salty Dog)>

Green BTA
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005
I've had a green BTA for about the last month or so. It is housed in a 40 gallon acrylic, and the "problem" is this...for about 1 or 2 hours just about everyday around 11am, the anemone seems to deflate itself, then around 1pm, it re-inflates. The conditions/parameters are as follows
SG - 1.0235
Temp - 76
pH - 8.4
NO2 - 0ppm
NH3/NH4 - 0ppm
NO3 - 0ppm
Lighting - 1x 175 watt MH 10,000K
1x 36" 30w Actinic Fluorescent
1x 36" 30w Aqua Glo (soon to be replaced by actinic)
I feed it liquid food every couple days, and a small piece of raw shrimp once a week.
In the tank with it are:
3 Green Chromis
1 Maroon Clown
1 Rock Blenny
Several hermit crabs and a few emerald crabs.
Also, the BTA seems to stay towards the bottom, so, could it be lighting? pH too high? Any theories?? I appreciate any advice you can offer and would again like to thank you for your website.
<Hello Bryan, first off most anemones prefer the bottom. Your parameters are fine. Don't use liquid food for the BTA. Give the anemone about 10 days before you feed the shrimp again. Most of their food source comes from the symbiotic algae that grows in them and converts to a food substance. Anemones really don't digest their food that fast to be feeding every other day. I don't know what bulb you have in the MH, but next time you change tubes (yearly), I'd go with a 10K bulb. Anemones normally do inflate/deflate, but I don't think daily is normal. Might have something to do with all these feedings. Good luck. James (Salty Dog)>

Rose bubble tip avoiding light?
Hi, guys--I have been reading as much as possible on rose bubbletips, and I thought I was comfortable with my new animal. I have a 250 w Halide, plus a strip 30 w 10k bulb. Tank is 65 gal, w/25 gal refugium. Good water quality, flows, etc. The BTA started on sand, quickly moved to the very top of back corner, in the darkest part of tank. He's taking food, cut up Mysid shrimp mostly, and looks o.k.--but I thought the basic criteria was ample and somewhat intense (halide?) lighting. << Yes I agree, but let him go wherever he wants to go. >> Yet for the last few weeks he seems to be avoiding as much light as possible. He did move a few inches along the glass towards the front the other day. Should I be concerned? << Nope, don't worry. Just let it go and do what it wants to do. >> Thanks for all the very informed and intelligent information on your sites!..........Barry
<< Blundell >>

Rose bubble tip and a Sebae anemonefish
Hello again--I just sent you a few questions about my rose BTA staying in the dark, but overlooked something that may have affected it....when I first put the anemone in tank, my large Sebae clown went ballistic, and very aggressively plunked itself and wriggled itself into the BTA. Even after it fled to the top of the dark, rear corner, the clown would hang vertically from within the tentacles....however, after a few days of this, and since then, the clown totally ignores and won't go near the BTA. Why the sudden divorce?? << Maybe he doesn't feel the anemone is healthy enough to offer him protection. It is also possible that the anemonefish just isn't in need of protection. >> Could the aggressiveness of the clown the first few days have driven the BTA away to the darkest part of the tank?? << It could have caused it to move around. But I still wouldn't worry about it. >> Will they reconcile, in your opinion? << No. I don't know why I said that, I just don't see them pairing up. But no worries, they can certainly do well in the tank without pairing up. >> This sounds like a soap opera! Thanks......again......Barry
<< Blundell >>

- Bubble Tip Sans Tips -
Hey Guys,
This question in concerning my Bubble tip anemone. I have had the anemone for about a year. The first 3 to 4 months it had great looking bubbles in the tips and from 4 months on it has lost the bubbles. I have not seen the bubbles since. The tentacles are all the way stretched out and some have fallen off. <That doesn't sound good.> Then Anemone is kind of ugly now but does not look like it is going to die. <They rarely do until a day or two before it's all over.> It accepts all of the foods I give it, Mysis, Squid, Fish fillet soaked in Selcon and Vita Chem. The tank in a 25 gallon. <This is a pretty small tank and small amount of water for such a creature... any chance of something larger. Would try a couple of 25% water changes to see if that improves its attitude.> About a month ago I switched up the lighting. I went from 110 watts of PC to one 175 watt 12k metal halide. That did not help it at all. What would be causing the tips to disappear and never come back? <Something about your husbandry isn't satisfying its needs.> 1.025, 77?, pH 8.3, nitrates 10, Have not checked Alk and Calcium. Does Alk and Calcium affect anemones? <Not directly.> Would it be a factor why the bubbles have disappeared? <Wouldn't expect so.> I have a Clarki clownfish that is in the anemone 24/7. He brings the anemone food all the time. Also is it normal for an anemone to fully deflate to where there is no water in it? <If something is disturbing it, yes.> The mouth is wide open and sometimes has brown stringy stuff coming out. Mine has been doing that about once a week? Is this something to be concerned about or is that its way of getting rid of it waste? <It does sound like something is quite wrong - what that is exactly is hard for me to say.> Sorry for all of the questions just trying to keep my little anemone healthy!
Thanks,
Chris
<Cheers, J -- >

Bubble tip anemone 2/12/04
I just put a bubble tipped anemone in my tank and he moved around a little and found a spot to stay but he doesn't seem to want to open up for some reason. is this normal when first introducing him to a tank??? thanks
<fairly common yes... and please do read though our archives at WetWebMedia.Com for articles and FAQs on caring for these anemones and others. Anthony>

Rose Anemone 3/28/04
I currently have a 150 gallon set up wet dry, CPR backpack skimmer, UV light, two power heads on opposite ends of the tank one high one low, heater in the wet dry box and one in tank. The tank also contains lots of live rock mixed with lace rock. I have 1 percula clown,1 clarkii clown, 1 powder brown tang, 1 lawnmower blenny, 2 scooter blenny's, 4 damsels, and a cleaning crew.
But I recently received a rose anemone {1 week} it attached quickly to a rock in very lit place middle of the tank. The Clarkii clown took to it immediately. Feeding it and sleeping in it, however he would be rather aggressive in its play. Two days ago I found the rose on the floor of the tank shriveled up like a disk and very hard. I put it back in the same spot it was. It opened and ate for me but then returned to the bottom. This time it had formed a donut shape with a hole in the middle. I returned it again and it began to look good. The next day it was climbing on the glass and throughout the day started shimming its way down the glass to the bottom. I returned it and it was fine. Today I found it with half full tentacles and a ghostly puffing of the mouth. When I fed it there was what looked to be a small tentacle next to it that was expanding and deflating. Could you tell me what might be happening?
<not necessarily (or even likely) a response to light... perhaps irritation by the clownfish not giving it a chance to settle in... and even more likely not favoring the water flow (generally not enough). Still do consider if your lights are bright enough: 5 watts per gallon and focus on daylight color (6500-8,000 K). There is also an extraordinary amount of information in our WetWebMedia.Com archives if you will kindly take the time to read/browse yourself. Enjoy the journey! Anthony>
Testing the water everything is good, temp is 80 and I have lights on 10 hours. The lights are ice berg ballast (2) and 2 artic white VHO (2) artic blue.

BTA behavior 5/28/04
I was wondering it you could help me what is happening in my fish tank. The anemone I purchased a week ago wandered around for a couple of days and perched itself on the glass beside my protein skimmer near the surface. I am feeding it shrimp pellets but I haven't been able to tell whether or not it is eating.
<you have much to learn about anemones my friend... I have immediate concerns about the lighting (from the anemone loving around), the food being fed... and if (hopefully not) you have other corals or anemones in this tank (bad to mix). Please take the time to go through our extensive archives on this subject at WetWebMedia.Com>
Lately it has been deflated most of the day and night. I have 2 Percula Clowns that loved to play in it but because it is deflated they seem sad. It is on the glass so it is not in a very well lit area. I have read that when it digests its food that it will shrink for a couple of days.
<hmmm... a matter of hours. And some swell instead. Days would be a concern>
It has started to slide down the glass and I am not sure weather something is wrong or it is migrating. I also think that it might be splitting.
<this may not be the case>
I have included Photos of it.
<no pics attached>
right now it looks like it is sliding down the glass deflated. Please tell me what is happening. Thank You, Brad Prince
<best regards, Anthony>

-BTABM (BTA Bowel Movement)-
Hi. Have looked at various articles/FAQs/prior posts on BTAs but not found any similar questions. <Much thanks for looking to see if it's been answered BEFORE asking!> Please help if you can. I started my tank about 3 months ago. I have about 85lbs of Fiji, Tonga branch, and Caribbean live rock and 60lbs of live sand. After tank cycled and several water measurements (temp 80-82F, pH 8.2, spg 1.024, nitrite 0, nitrate <5) I added a "cleaning crew" of various snails, some blue and scarlet hermits, and 3 emerald crabs. Then added over time 2 false Percs, 2 pajama cardinals, 1 royal Gramma, 1 scarlet cleaner shrimp, and 2 fan worms. Then last week I added a Bubble Tip Anemone. The BTA moved around the rocks and found a crevice it seemed to like for its foot and opened and closed on a routine type basis. One of the clowns, the smaller of the two, started 2 nights ago to - after the lights went out - begin to "aggressively" swim in and out of the BTA. In the morning, when the lights came on in the tank, it would stop. Is this normal behavior? Is he trying to form a "relationship?" <You got it, it takes some time for the new duo to get used to each other.> My more serious concern is that yesterday I fed the BTA a piece of krill -- he took the piece and I watched as he ate it. All seemed to go well and after the tank lights went out the clown again did his thing with the BTA. This morning all was well, BTA was open and I noticed a brown object in the BTA -- the clowns ate it and there were then some brown "strings" that looked like webs around/in the BTA. Now he is completely closed -- more closed than at any time I have had him in the tank. Is there a problem I need to be concerned about and if yes, what should I do? <It's likely that it just ejected the waste from the krill, forcefully expelling most of its internal water in the process. This is a reason I don't recommend krill for anemones, since there is significant waste associated with it. If it had not ate, I would be concerned that it may be ejecting zooxanthellae but I think this is a clear cut case of a very regular anemone (no fiber needed here!).> Sorry for such a long note/question, but really could use some help. Thank you -- Sid <Enjoy! -Kevin>

BTA anemones hiding from light? 7/12/04
HEY Anthony, Hope you are doing well these days
<getting by my friend... I hope you are as well or better>
it has been a little while since I last spoke to you. My question is since we last spoke I had told you that I had converted my tank to an anemone only tank and for awhile both the bubble and the rose were doing fine. Now they both seem to be hiding from the light.
<this is not uncommon, although not a good sign and not likely a response to light that is "too bright" - quiet the contrary... read on>
I have one that is now almost completely hidden under a rock and another one that has climbed as high in the tank as it can. My first thought about the one that had climbed up high was that it
wasn't getting enough light,
<this is likely so>
but it opens up one heck of a lot more when the lights go out?
<because it is a filter feeder... like so many corals, they seek to trap zooplankton that comes out at night. Polyp extension in corals and anemones has much to do with water flow and feeding opportunities regardless of light (or not)>
I have only a 20gal. high tank with 130 watts pc lighting and I cannot figure out what I'm doing wrong.
<keep in mind that anemones do not have sight or the power of reason - if they got shadowed in the wild, they would pick up and keep moving till they found better light/water flow etc. But when one of these params is lacking in an aquarium - they are trapped. The are weak from suffering the lack of the right kind of water flow, light, etc... they wander around the aquarium for X days/weeks looking for it and get progressively weaker>
Water parameters are
ca,450 alk 2.3meq/l salt,
<yikes... the Calcium is getting a whisker too high and that may be a reason why your Alk is so low. Do some water changes here and adjust your supplementation so that it is more even keeled: 375-400 Ca and 10-12 dKH is better is stable and safer nonetheless.>
1.025 nh3-0 nh4-o no2-0 no3<5ppm, photoperiod
is about 10 hrs a day.25 pounds of live rock and 3 inches of live
sand, protein skimmer is in use and an air stone nothing else is in operation. please help before I accidentally kill another one of natures most beautiful creations and royally p**s off my two gold stripe maroon clowns! THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP! ALSO I CHANGE WATER ABOUT TWICE A MONTH. Cheers, Todd Biondolillo
<I'm also wondering if the lights are too old. Fluorescents are weak by 6-8 months and severely degraded (read: near useless) after 10 months for keeping corals and anemones. This is not just my opinion, alas, but verifiable with a PAR meter. Is this perhaps contributory? Is their dust or salt creep on the bulbs or glass cover severely impeding the entry of light. Have you stopped changing carbon regularly (or never used) and as such... water clarity has yellowed over months? Many possibilities here. Best of luck! Anthony>

BUBBLE TIP DEFLATING
Hey guys, <Hey Peter> thanks for the genius help in the past. <You are very kind> I have recently added a rose bubble tip anemone to my 72 gal w/ 100 lbs of LR. I have 4x96W PC lighting. All of my water parameters are good (ammonia-0, nitrite-0, nitrate<3ppm, pH 8.2, Temp 79, calcium ~300, phosphate~0). My question is....the anemone, as expected, has moved around a bit. The problem is that he always moves to parts of the tank which are in the shade which then causes him to shrivel up nearly to the point of death. <Let me just ask you? Is it possible he's digesting food when he moves? Generally they move toward the light or toward a more favorable current so they can get more food.> I then have to rearrange the entire tank and he fills back up and looks great. The only thing that I can think of is that maybe the maroon clown that I have is bothering him? <Hmm can't imagine.> Although I have never heard of this. <Me either frankly.> The clown constantly rubs in him. Any ideas?

BTA not so bubbly
My bubble tip anemone used to puff up rather large on a regular basis, now it is mostly hanging down and stringy. It used to get this mostly when the lights were out but not as often as now. Most of the time it is small and stringy. There is also a stingy thin hair like film coming from it or getting caught
on it. I thought it was dead, but it puffed up and I fed it (which I do 3 times a week).
It hasn't moved, well just about an inch to the left, but has been happy.
50 gallon bow, 70# live rock, aqua c remora, canister filter. 192 watt PC Coralife light.
I think is enough light!?! <<Hmmm, doesn't sound like much light to me. I would be like to see more, or at least the anemone near the top. >>
Now, I feed it Mysis shrimp or krill, chopped up fine.
Water : 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, low to zero nitrates.
Fighting to keep phosphates low, but with water changes, keeping it low.
Alkalinity is high, around 20dKH << Wow, how did you manage that? Most people struggle with low dKH. I would think that could definitely be a problem. What is the pH? >> which in turn is keeping calcium around 200 good water flow.
what else, I don't know, is it just been very sleepy lately.
Need anymore info?
mark
<< Adam B. >>

Re: BTA bummed
I have used 4 types of salt mix, so I don't think its the salt. The test kit shows no alkalinity problems right out of the RO/DI filter plus I used Salifert and red sea test kits, they both show the same. So I am thinking RO/DI but how do I check this, the TDS is about 10 which I thought was great. I cant reasonably go out an but another $400 RO/DI system. Is there another test to perform to check the RO/DI. << Very good question. What I would recommend is looking at how long you've had the filter, and how many gallons have gone through it. It is possible you just need new membranes. The other thing to do is to get 20 gals of water from a friend, bring it home, mix it up, and then see what levels you test. Maybe it is your salt? or your buckets? or something else? >> I have had this for about 9 months now, maybe I will change all the filters but I really don't think that would do it.
Also, I have a Corallife light 2x96 watt 36" pc fixture (hence 192 watts) 1 actinic 1 20k. << Oh I see, thanks for clearing that up. >>
I don't really like the color though, its kind of drab and purple/blue.
maybe metal halide with VHO is the way to go. How many watts is too much 400 watts??? << You can't have too many watts. I don't think 400 watts of halide is overpowering a 50 gal. I would go with two bulbs like two 250's or two 175's instead of just one 400 watt bulb. I think you'll much more enjoy two bulbs distributing the light. That is what I would do. >>
anyway, any input about the RO/DI or alkalinity would help.
PS the alkalinity out of the tap is also high. << Well that does lend concern for the membranes again. I'd still get water from somewhere else and try again. >>
thanks dude << You're welcome >>
mark
<< Adam B. >>

- Bubble tip anemones! -
Hello and good morning :) <Good evening! Kevin here.>
I recently acquired a bubble anemone from a friend who's lights went out and he wasn't able to replace with adequate lighting. There are two anemones on the same piece of rock. They've shrunk down to about 1" diameter and are mostly a yellow-ish brown color. My water tests alright, what can I do to best rehab these little guys?
<They'll need time to adapt to the new lighting and water conditions. As long as they were properly handled during transport and acclimated well, they should do just fine provided you have the appropriate system for them. Check it out: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm -Kevin>
Thanks,
Bill

- Bubble Tip Goin' Haywire -
Hello Gang... Well I am afraid that this email is like my visits to the doctor...very few and far between... Which is usually a good thing...
<That should mean everything is going well!>
Well I have had my tank operating for almost three years now. 120 Salt water Reef.
Water Parameters:
Ammonia. 0
Calcium 360
Phosphate: 0
Nitrates: 0
Nitrites: 0
<Carbonate hardness?!? As far as I'm concerned, calcium tests are useless without a KH test.>
8 Power compacts 4 Actinic, 4 10,000 Kelvin
4? sand bed.
Aqua C Protein Skimmer.
80 Lbs Live Rock.
Eheim Canister Pro
Inhabitants:
1 Scopas Tang
2 Tomato Clowns.
1 Firefish
1 Banggai Cardinal
3 Blue Chromis
1 Pajama Cardinal
1 Brittle Star
3 Zebra Hermits
1 Porcelain Crab
1 Cleaner shrimp... The other recently died...what is the life expectancy here?
<Several years, who knows what happened to it so long as your water parameters were in check.>
1 Cabbage Coral
1 Bubble Coral
Some Ricordea
Some Star Polyps.
1 Leather Coral
My Christmas Tree worms that have been multiplying for the past three years :)
And finally 1 Bubble tip anemone that is 2.5 years old....it started out the size of a golf ball and is now 9? across.
<Sooooo, getting ready for a divide, no doubt.>
So it is the Bubble that I am concerned about...since I put him in the tank he has favored a specific spot and has seemed to be happy. Over the last couple of days I have watched him moving about on the rock and then when I came home this evening he is clinging to the glass... In the darkest portion of the tank...I have not changed the bulbs recently, 4 months ago... And everything else is fine? Any suggestions. He is now deflated and looking sad. He gets fed three times a week on Mysis soaked in Selcon and occasionally some finely diced Krill...
<Anemones move when they're not happy with something. Could be a change in water movement, lighting, a fish picking on it, there's a lot of possibilities. The deflating part may or may not be a bad thing, they do this when they're ready do divide. And with that feeding schedule, I'm surprised you don't have a hundred by now!>
He has also never fully developed his bubbles. He had them when he was small but since he grew, nothing.
<Neither has mine. Some say a resident clownfish will make this happen, but I've seen plenty w/ clowns that didn't have bubble tips. Alas...>
If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it. Other wise G-D willing I will write to you in another three years. :)
<Just keep an eye on it, there's really nothing you can do besides make sure it doesn't get sucked up into a powerhead! See ya in three years! -Kevin>
Hope you are all well....
Cheers.
Paul

-E. Quad. issues-
Hey guys,
I just want to run this by you guys and see what you think. I have a Bubble tip anemone for about a month now it has been acting weird. It started acting weird around the same time I switched salt. I switched from Kent to Instant Ocean. Also around that same time I added a small Frogspawn frag. Would switching salt cause my bubble tip to act like this. Before the switch it would open up really big and would display the bubble tips. After the switch does not open as big and none of the tentacles have the bubble tip. Would adding the Frogspawn cause what you call "chemical warfare"? <Doubtful> The tank is a 25 gallon and about 10 months old. I have had no problems with it. <Is it under at least a pair of 55-65w PC's?> Water quality stay high with weekly 5 gallon RO water changes. Let me know what you think would be causing this. I have not changed anything else, I still feed on that same schedule, same food, nothing else has been changed.
<Unfortunately, it seems that no one can figure out why these critters will develop (or lose for that matter) the bubble shaped tips. Just yesterday my BTA displayed bubble tips, they're gone now. It could have been the salt change since it likely effected several chemical levels in the tank. This isn't necessarily anything to worry about, providing it's well lit. Good luck! -Kevin>
Thanks, Chris Hepburn

- BTA Bubble Tips, Follow up -
Kevin,
I went ahead and switched back to the Kent salt. Everything in the tank seems a lot happier. Also the bubbles have started to come back on the BTA.
<Huh, go figure>
I did the water change with the new salt on Thursday. By the next morning I could see the difference. The BTA has opened up to its normal size, a lot bigger than before the switch. My tank did not like the switch to Instant Ocean salt. My Xenia has not showed any different signs. What cause Xenias to shrink?
<They are sensitive to things like pH, although it usually only affects their pulsing speed. I really don't know...>
It is still pulsing and water quality is excellent. Ever since the switch it has shrunk in size. I just hope with the switch back it will recover to its old self.
<It should be fine, there's really only two states of xenia: dead or taking over the tank.>
I just wanted to let you know how everything is working out with the switch back! Thanks, Chris Hepburn
<Excellent, thanks for the follow-up! That's very interesting about the salt dependant bubble tips... -Kevin>

Anemone Antics
Hey guys/gals!
<Scott F. your guy today!>
I just had a quick question as I can't find any information on my own. I recently received a BTA with a clown fish at my local fish store. I acclimated
them both appropriately and they both seem very happy.
<Excellent!>
However I've noticed something odd and am not sure if this is normal or a warning sign for something serious. It seems that everyday for about an hour,
the BTA shrinks up to about nothing. I have wondered if it was something I had done to the tank, etc. but this evening it shrank on its own. The only thing that seems similar on the last 3 days is that it shrinks after about 10 hours of lighting. Color wise it is brown/green and when it is inflated it is
gorgeous. Should I be worried or is this normal behavior?
<In my personal experience, anemones will often shrink and open during the course of a day without being indicative of some greater problem. On the other hand, if you are witnessing discharge of mucus, or other materials, you may need to do some investigating here.>
Some specs on the tank. it's a 20gal with 130W of light (65W 10K daylong/65W actinic). Location wise, the anemone is about 1/2 way to the to the top of the tank. It has moved lower in the last few days.
<Anemones will move about when they are unhappy with their current location, only to settle in a spot that is more to their liking..>
My salinity is 1.023, the temp is ~80 degrees, nitrite/ammonia is 0 and my nitrates are about 10. pH is 8.2 Livestock consists of a Firefish and a tomato
clown. Thanks for all your help!
<Other than the low level of measurable nitrate in your system (which can be brought under control by using tried-and-true techniques outlined on the WWM site), I don't see anything that really strikes me as bad. I'd keep observing and feeding this seemingly healthy animal, and only intervene if the anemone's behavior or condition take a turn for the worse (i.e.; remaining closed for extended periods during the day, excessive discharge, etc.). Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Bubble anemone What's wrong?
Hiya Bob & Crew. I recently purchased a Bubbletip anemone for my 26G tank. My tank is fully cycled w/ NO3 5-10ppm. Also includes 35lbs cured LR, 40lbs live aragonite reef fine reef sand, SeaClone 100 and an Emperor280 filter w/ lighting 130W(10K&Actinic) Aqualight Coralife. Tank currently have only the BTA (about 3-4 inch), a coral banded shrimp, and a scooter blenny. I had my BTA for 1 week, all was fine and seems to be expanding and then yesterday it produced some slime underneath its body so I moved him to another corner. Now it shrank to about 1-2 inches. What's going on??
<do not move him around he will move on his own. he is expelling the water in him (which is normal) anemones can do this on a reg basis. He was fine during the day and night the first week. Feed him 2x a week w/ Micro-Vite and sometimes frozen Brine Shrimp.
<you are feeding the wrong kind of food try some cocktail shrimp (make sure is not cooked) break it up into pieces, the anemone can ingest. I have a rose anemone that is bigger than a football and I feed him 2 whole cocktail shrimp a week> Also my coral band shrimp seems to be hiding 24/7. Will this guy ever come out to eat??
<he is eating the food that the fish miss that makes it's way to the back .They are scavengers> How do I get him to come out?
< they are nocturnal so it will be difficult>
Is my lighting too bright?
<NO> My scooter blenny is not doing his job on the algae.
<Scooter blennies do not feed on algae they are more like a mandarin. try a lawnmower blenny he will take care of all of it> This stinks! All I wanted was a tank w/ 2clowns and an anemone. Any advice???
<hang in there you were given some misdirection hope this helps Mike H.>

-BTA question- Kevin's Answer
I sent the following email a few days ago but have received no reply. I am resending it in case it fell through the cracks. Thanks, Bryan 
Hi, I'm having two problems that I hope you can help with. First, I have a bubble tip anemone (had for a couple of months) that had been doing well until about two weeks ago. It started spending a lot of time shrunk up. For the last several days it has opened but for all practical purposes its tentacles have shriveled up to the point of non-existence. I had been feeding it small chunks (1/4 inch) of shrimp a couple of times a week. However, the last time I saw it looking good a larger chunk of food (1/2 inch or so) had inadvertently blown into it. It has never regained its glory since. What do the shriveled or lack of tentacles mean? Starving?
Full? <Neither, it could be getting ready to divide, especially on that feeding schedule!> I've tried feeding but of course without full tentacles it isn't holding food. Its mouth has gaped a few times and a stringy clear intestinal sort of slime came out. Generally, however, it's mouth is tight. Water quality is good (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate all 0. DKH is around 10, calcium 300, ph 8.1) Lighting is from 260 watts of power compacts. <It may be getting ready to divide, but either way the best thing to do is to not bother it (this includes force feeding, don't worry about food until it is open per usual).>
On the completely other side of the tank (55 gallons long) I have a star polyp that's mat is sprouting low-lying hair algae and the mat is brown from a thin layer of algae. The polyps were not opening as fully as usual. One of the powerheads was moved awhile back and I know that this algae is forming due to lack of water flow. I have corrected that problem but what can I do to get this algae off without permanently damaging the coral? <You can gently scrub it off with a soft bristled toothbrush> I have been picking at the hair algae with my fingers but it's hard to get hold of. The brown algae seems to come off by rubbing my finger lightly along the mat but there are too many nooks and crannies for this to be effective. Any ideas for what I can use? <If you cant remove it from the tank, try a toothbrush taped to the end of a siphon. You can scrub and suck away the algae in one step.> The polyps haven't come out for a few days because of my messing with it. <Good luck! -Kevin>
Thanks for your help! Bryan

Re: BTA shrinking
Thanks Mike for the reply,
But it's been 3 days that my BTA shrank. Now I can't see him. He looks like a chunk of slime inside a hole of my live rock. Is he dead?

Should I get what's left of my BTA??
<don't worry about it next time try I bigger one at least as big as an orange and start feeding right away thanks Mike H>
I checked my water parameter again and all is Fine. pH 8.2, NH3=0,NO2=0, NO3=about 10. Ca= 420-430 Phosphate=0
Thanks-Donnie

Ring around the BTA? 10/29/03
Anthony : Since your response my sinking anemone split in two and both fled to the back of the tank behind live rock, where there is little light. The female clown followed them and wallows back and forth between them.
<not uncommon (move to dim light)>
So ... I have to decide what to do with these unpredictable set of events, taking into account your advice. One question: don't BTAs situate themselves between hard corals (like staghorns) in the wild reef?
<good heavens no... it's almost unheard of with any anemone. Even those that hail from rocky habitats (in contrast to the more common sandy/muddy flats, etc) still avoid other cnidarians and instead seek the crevices of rocks>
I understand your logic about separating these different types of critters .... but you know, reefers have to try everything once.
<it's more than logic, my friend... it is what is, it is... unnatural to mix these creatures in such close confines. And it is an inappropriate use of a living resource. As conscientious aquarists... we are obliged to not make horrifying excuses like "reefers have to try everything once". Yikes... you do recall that the things you are "trying" are living. At least for now <G>.>
Maybe I could build a coral-corral around these BTAs to prevent them from burrowing down into the sand or wandering around and thrashing on other cnidarians.
<ahhh...no>
Thanks, SLC
<good luck. Anthony>

Anemone At "Low Tide"?
Hello WWM crew!
<Hi there! Scott F. at your service!>
I've been searching the FAQs for information about bubble-tip anemones but I couldn't find anything particularly related to my situation.
<Well, let's give it a shot...>
One of my BTAs has stationed itself at the very top of the waterline for about the past 2 weeks. I want to do a water change, but in order to do this, the anemone will be out of the water for a period of about 20 minutes or so. Can it survive this? If not, would my next best option be to try to gently remove his foot from the glass? (The anemone's foot is stuck firmly to the glass of the tank.) How would I go about doing that? I've seen some posts about coaxing the anemone to move by half-shading.
<Well, the anemone has "chosen" this spot because it is comfortable there. I'd avoid moving the animal for fear of injuring it. I believe that the anemone will be fine if exposed to the air for a limited period of time. If it makes you feel better, you could periodically splash water on it during the water change process.>
The anemone itself is not doing as well as the other anemones in the tank: the tentacles are retracted and closed in and the color has faded slightly. I'm not sure why this one is not doing well as the others. They all were formed after a recently 3-way split of my original BTA. I don't want to give up on the sickly one, but I'd like to do a water change really soon!
<I agree with your sentiments. Of course, the need to change water cannot be ignored...I'd go for the water change, if for no other reason than the fact that it will serve the "greater good" for this tank's population. In the end, changing the water may end up "coaxing" the animal out of whatever seems to be negatively affecting it.. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Any advice is greatly appreciated! ----Stella

Bubble Tip Anemone - What's Happening?
>Hello friends,
>>Hello.  Apologies for the very late reply.
>My bubble tip anemone is upside down and its center is open. It also has moved toward the back of the tank. Could it possibly be splitting? What signs should I be looking for and how long will the splitting take to complete?
>>Unfortunately, I've never seen a split, so I cannot tell you exactly what's happening.  There are those with much experience with this on http://www.reefs.org (on the forums).  If you can take a picture and post it there I'm positive you'll find someone (Minh Nguyen comes immediately to mind) who knows exactly what to look for.  However, here's my first take: to the best of my knowledge, when an anemone splits, they do not disengage from the substrate and flip themselves.  In my experience this usually means the animal is "unhappy" with its situation.  In other words it's often an indicator of trouble.  Again, my apologies for the late reply.  Marina

Interesting event (E. quadricolor Anemone and Maroon Clown)
Hey there! Hope all is well with everyone from WWM.
<thanks kindly with hope for you as well>
I have an experience I'd like to share that you and others might find interesting and hopefully informative.
<much appreciated... will post>
Today I purchased a small E. quadricolor. In full lighting it is a creamy white color with some brown in the tentacles and pink tips. It had been there for a week and has been healthy the whole time.
<hmmm... not healthy at all.. the color indicates a typical import: stressed and bleached>
I've kept an eye on it since they acquired it and since it was doing well voila, I've got it at home now. Anyway, the interesting part is what my Premnas biaculeatus did. After about an hour it joined the anemone and is now very much living with it. Before I put the anemone in, the clown had intermittent bits of ich on him, and a cut from swimming around rocks on his left flank had not completely healed. Within 5 hours of joining the anemone, he has no white salt dots at all (he had two or three this afternoon), the wound on his flank is almost totally healed, his color is brighter, his personality is more "buoyant" and strangely his fins are losing their black coloration, going from almost totally black to nearly matching the rest of his body in the 5 hours he's been with the anemone. He was healthy before, eating voraciously and being quite active, but I can say with complete confidence he is twice as healthy now and probably happier to the tenth power. So to those who underestimate the effects of stress on livestock, don't! I hope that this might help to really bring out the importance of proper handling of livestock to anyone who might be less than careful. Sincerely,
R. Vincent McCarthy
<appreciated, my friend. But please look into the needs and natural pigmentation of a healthy E. quadricolor. No such thing as white (other than the bleached and soon to be dead). To save this anemone, you will need to feed it very fine meaty foods (never more than 1/4" although they will take it). Never feed adult frozen brine... but do offer mysids, Gammarus and plankton/krill. If your anemone survives, it will turn solid, rich colored brown, green or rose colored most likely. Best regards, Anthony>

Anemone Won't Stay Open...
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today>
I have a 60 gallon marine tank. Its been set up for 3 months and is doing alright. I have about 60 lbs of live rock, 1green tip Goniopora, 1 bubble tip anemone, 1 gold striped maroon clown, 1 true percula clown, 1 electric blue damsel, and a 4 inch yellow tang. When I purchased the BTA a month ago he was opened all the way in the store, but ever since I had him he really only opens up when the maroon clown feeds him. The same with my Goniopora, on some days radiant, but mostly he's inside all day. I have 2 48'' strip lights with 2 12'' bulbs in each one. I have 2 actinic blue lights in one and 2 20watt bulbs in the other. My ph 8.4,ammonia .25, nitrites 0,nitrates 10., temp. 83 degrees and salinity at 1.020. I know I need more lighting, what would you prefer?
<Okay...Are you sure that you have .25ppm ammonia? There should be no detectable ammonia in an established system! Something is definitely not right here. Do re-check...Revisit your husbandry techniques if this reading is correct. I'll bet that's a big part of why the anemone and coral are not opening. As far as lighting- I'd look into a metal halide or metal halide/VHO combo for this tank. Many good ones to choose from out there! The proper lighting, along with careful maintenance and observation, can go a long way towards helping these animals prosper. Do check the many FAQs on the WetWebMedia.Com site regarding maintenance of these animals for more information. Keep studying and learning- you'll see a big improvement in your animal's. You can do it! Good luck!>

E. quadricolor anemone behavior... hiding? 3/22/03
I have recently added a small E. quadricolor to a 55g with 70lbs live rock and 4 small False Perculas, two 402 powerheads, a 300 Aquaclear power filter and an AquaC Remora skimmer. The tank is fairly well established with lots of copepods et al. The anemone has been in the tank for only four days, seems to be doing fine so far. Opens up and extends for much of the time, readily eats 1/4 inches piece of thawed frozen krill each morning. My concern is that he stays in a large open cave the entire time. Very little
light enters his home and I'm wondering if this is symptomatic of a problem.
<many possibilities... excess light is not one of them though. Shock of acclimation at best. Do you know what kind of light it came from? Had it been in transit long/dark? Was it quarantined first, etc?>
I have a 130W Power Compact (daylight only) on top which was suggested to me be someone who has kept this species of anemone for some time.
<Yikes! Very low light for most any Cnidarian. It only works here (perhaps) with this anemone because of the feeding which compensates for the lack of light>
Apparently they need less light than other anemones?
<not a correct/fair conclusion... other influences>
Is this behavior normal? I'm just trying to find out if I have any reason to worry so I can fix any potential problems early on. Many thanks, as always!! Michael
<See more info here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and do follow the many links and FAQs at the top of this page. kind regards, Anthony>

BTA hiding from light! 3/22/03 Hey guys! <cheers, bub> Back again with the same problem. I've watched my BTA over the last few days and have noticed a weird pattern. At night (when the lights are off) the BTA looks normal, completely full and full of color. But when I turn the lights on, it will start to retract and will eventually turn blue (normally pink/brown). <the darker color is simply from the deflated tentacles and concentration of mass/pigments> Have you ever heard of this? That it will shrivel up and deflate when the lights are turned on, but become normal when the lights go out? I have enclosed two pics to show what I'm talking about. Thanks. Chad <it is not indicative of a specific event or problem. This species however does clone (fission) easily and often. When such acts are impending, they often creep into a crevice in the reef for protection during the vulnerable split by day. See more info here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm and do follow the many links and FAQs at the top of this page. Anthony>
morning	afternoon

Anemone On The Run?
Chad here and am a first time WWM reader.
<Glad to have you with us, Chad! Scott F. with you today!>
I must say, you guys have got a fantastic site! I just spent the last two hours reading all your FAQs on the BTAs and must say that those two hours were well spent!
<Cool!>
But after all that searching I still have one question (you answered everything else already!). But first, I will bring you up to date. I recently bought a BTA a little over week ago. As soon as I put it in the tank (29 gallon with Ecosystem filter) the Maroon Clownfish instantly took up base! But because the BTA was stressed out, he wandered to the back of the tank under some live rock.
<A fairly common occurrence, actually>
After a few days back there, I just flipped the rock around so he would get better light. When I moved the rock I noticed that he has buried himself in really good in a deep crevice. Lately some of the tentacles on the outside have shriveled up and turned a light blue color (The BTA is a light pink color). Now my question is, why do the tentacles deflate? And what causes this? I read that they get swollen from the water. is that right?
<Hard to say what caused him to go into a crevice...Usually a reaction to a new environment and lighting regime. The shriveling may or may not be good sign. It is caused by fluid expanding or contracting within the anemone's body cavity.>
If that is the case then could it be because he has buried himself deep in that crevice that he his cutting of circulation to some arms?
<Possible, but not likely...I'd sort of leave the animal alone for a while, and see how it responds in the next few days. Often, the animal will work its way back out into an area that it finds comfortable. Keep a close eye on things, and be patient!>
Looking for any help! Keep up the fantastic work!
<And thank you for stopping by! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Leaping before looking with a BTA
>Hello,
>>Hello Alex.
>I got a BTA yesterday and he opens and closes many times is that normal???
>>Difficult to say without actually seeing it.  Something may be bothering it, but since it's a new addition then it could just be acclimating.
>And can you give me advice on how to feed my Bubble tip anemone, some say that you don't even have to feed them, and if I do, do they feed slow???
>>Ok, Alex, I am going to assume that you made a purchase without doing any research first.  Please, do not continue to do this.  I know that no harm is meant, but many of these animals have very specialized requirements, and I've seen far too many hobbyists make purchase after purchase only to fail (and lose much money).  My goal is to ensure success.  Now I'm going to link you to much information on anemones.  Yes, your BTA (bubble tip anemone) will need to be fed, small bits of shrimp (peeled), squid, or other marine foods should suffice.  Lighting is of larger concern, as it's far more difficult (and expensive) to provide suitable lighting than it is to feed.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemoneselfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
>>Ok, now, when you link to these pages you'll see that there are MANY more links to information about anemones, please read as much as you can, and I'm positive that with the right knowledge, you'll have much success.  Good luck!  Marina
>Thanks for your time

Bubble Trouble? (Bubble Tip Anemone)
Hey,
<Hey there! Scott F. with you today!>
My question is about a Bubble Tip Anemone. I have had it in my tank for about a month and a half. For about two weeks I have noticed that food will not stick to it anymore. I have to use my feeding stick and place the food on the mouth and it will open and take it but nothing will stick to the tentacles. The lighting is PC 2x55 and I have the Anemone about six to seven inches from the surface. What would make it become non sticky?
<Really hard to say...Perhaps a reaction to some unfavorable environmental condition or other stress...Check water quality and other environmental parameters>
My clownfish really helps me out too, the bigger pieces of food I put in the clownfish will bring them to the anemone. But lately the food eventually falls out and I have to keep putting it in until it is swallowed. The Anemone has lost a little color, but that was when it was close to the bottom so I moved it as close as I could to the surface, to where it is now. I have not seen any differences since it has been at the top. What would be the best thing to do? I just hope that the Anemone is not going to die. I hope you guys know something to help my Anemone. Thanks, Chris Hepburn
<Well, Chris- I think that you really don't want to be moving the anemone any more. Changes have to be done gradually to avoid shocking the animal. The lighting may be insufficient for long-term maintenance of the animal, but don't do too much too fast! On the other hand, I'd keep up your persistent attempts to feed the animal. Make sure that your water quality is as high as possible, and continue your efforts...Basically, keep doing what you're doing...Be patient, be consistent...Hang in there! Regards, Scott F>

Questions about Entacmaea quadricolor Anemones
Dear Mr. Fenner. <<Actually, still JasonC.>> Thanks to Jason for his very prompt reply to my last posting. I am very appreciative of the fact that you truly seem to care about other people's questions.
<<Well, thank you for saying so...>>
To give you an update, the boxfish that I had with the white mucous like patches on his back, had more the next morning. He had also been observed hiding behind a stack of Live Rocks and was not eating. I called the shop and they said that they would take him back as he was obviously poorly. He had, I believe, also been snacking on the arms of
my Feather Star. Since he has gone the Feather Star is fully extended all the time and has moved to just under one of the powerheads. This story does not have a happy ending... Read no more for the faint of heart. So being very glad that the chap from the shop said that he was willing to exchange the said sick fish for something else, I, very cautiously, scooped him up and placed him into a large plastic bag, full of his tank water. Knowing full well, the reputation of this fish to excrete a nasty toxin into the water, I also placed his bag into another dark bag to keep him out of the light (remember what happened in
Poltergeist), and presumably, to simulate night time. Well our sick little friend took immediate umbrage at the aforementioned treatment and within minutes he was deceased. <<oh, I am sorry - you are quite right, they do this.>> I was most upset. My words of advice, for what they count. A very cool looking fish, but I shall not be in a hurry to purchase one again. <<fair enough...>> In fact from all the reading I have subsequently done, I would rather they were kept in the wild.
<<might be better, perhaps.>>
I mourned for the prerequisite period of time, and then decided that I should buy something to fill the void that he had left. Bearing in mind what was left in the tank was a gorgeous two headed, Hawaiian Feather Duster, a Tri Colored Feather Star, my true Percula, a yellow tailed Damsel, and various Coral Banded Shrimps, some Peppermint Shrimp, which I purchased to eradicate the infamous Aiptasia. Needless to say that they are more interested in snacking on the brine shrimp and flakes. And last but not least my hermit crab Cedric. The Coral Banded Shrimp, I am convinced, that if he had 100 pincers would use them all to find food. He is forever eating leftovers on the tank floor.
I obtained a Fire Goby, that is quite wonderful, he has taken a liking to the Percula, and can be seen darting in and out of his various burrows in the sand. <<ah good.>> Also I obtained a stunning specimen of Entacmaea quadricolor, that is about 3" when fully extended. <<ok>>
So after enough rambling here is my question. ( Finally I hear you say!) The EQ was quite buried in some coral substrate when he was in the shop, and contracted immediately upon touch. This was what I took to be a good sign. He arrived home and immediately set about to dig his foot into a crevasse, well more of a crevice ( I am making my tank sound like the Great Barrier Reef), in the Live Rock and sort of sulked for a few hours. He then went through a period of blowing himself up like a ball and spitting out strands of mucous. Then he was back to normal. Today he is fully horizontally extended and his bulbs are very full, the concern that I have is that his mouth is always half open. Well sometimes it is shut, but not often. Is this normal. <<it is somewhat normal - have seen other types of anemones do this for weeks on end with no change in health, or looks.>> There is a dearth of information about this sp on the internet. On one post someone replied that it was a sign that it was dying. In all other aspects he seems quite fine. <<and I would take it from there.>> He is so firmly attached to the rock that I am not sure that I could move him without causing damage to his pedal disc. <>
And when he is touched he immediately retracts into a ball. The Percula has ignored him ever since he appeared and is playing with it's reflection in the glass, as well as stripping all of the filamentous algae off the stones. <<I wouldn't expect the Percula to take interest in this type of anemone - not in it's list of usual suspects. There is a compatibility matrix on the following page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemones.htm >>
I tried to feed the EQ today with a half piece of Krill, which he ignored, in fact it sat on his tentacles for all of 20 seconds until one of the Lysmata wurdemanni came along and took it right off him without a thank you. I am curious as to your interpretation of his open mouth and would be glad of any suggestions that you may have. <<wait it out.>>
Also as a footnote. I have numerous colonies of feather dusters popping up through the sand and on the rock is this a good sign. <<yes, it is.>>
Ok I shall leave you now as I have taken up a lot of your time. I gather you were on holidays. I hope you had fun. <<oh, gangs and gangs of fun, I can assure you. ;-)>>
Thanks again for your time.
<<You are welcome.>>
Julian Hunt.
Canada
<<Cheers, J -- >>

Bubble Tip Anemone
I've just brought a bubble tip anemone, for the first 5 days things were great. Until last week it suddenly disappeared in to a gap in my life rock and, has not come out since, I'm worried because the gap is to small to fit my hands in to feed it, or to get any light in to it.
what can I do to make sure it is ok, or do you thing it has died.
<It probably has not died. It is quite normal for E. quadricolor to keep their foot wedged into a small crevice. Please leave it alone and do not try to move it. Read up on their care on the website. -Steven Pro>
Any help please!
thanks Simon.

Bubble Tip Anemone
Another anemone question. I have had a BTA for about one month. It looks great. It picked a rock in the middle of my tank but in the back. I've flipped the rock over, and it stayed there for at least two weeks, but now I only get to see it's beautiful reflection in the glass again.
<Why do you think this is?>
I had been feeding it very small pieces of shrimp every other day. What is the best way to feed an animal that is so out of reach?
<Perhaps it needs more, different light>
Do anemones retract daily in the wild?
<Some do, yes>
Thanks
-Becky
<Thank you, Bob Fenner>

Green Bubble Tip Anemone
I sent you an email earlier but forgot to ask you one more question -- I recently got this green tip anemone -- my maroon clown absolutely loves it! She went nuts! Is this ok?
<that is a baited question for someone like me who doesn't believe that most anemones should be offered for sale at all casually to aquarists. Far too many die in transit, they are VERY slow to recover in the wild from even modest collection (natural lifespan in decades but they are extremely slow to reproduce), and for the few that actually do survive import to make it into an aquarium... most are forced to live with other anemones or worse...a coral reef display (where they suffer chemical warfare <allelopathy> and die slowly over months or a couple of years at best. Most need full reef lighting, almost daily feeding and a species specific display (they are to be the only stinging animal in the tank). Forgive me, I know this wasn't exactly what you asked... but for your edification and the benefit of others, it seemed like a good time to air out this opinion... one that is shared with many industry professionals>
Can she cause harm to the anemone by being over zealous?
<yes... possible>
How will I know if the anemone doesn't like it?
<prolonged retraction of tentacles... which will kill it because without tentacles extended... it cannot capture food organismally or through adequate symbiotic activity from zooxanthellae>
Are there any signs? Is this normal for clownfish to be this "happy" over it? Will she eventually calm down?
<hard to say>
Thanks again for your patience with me! :)
<no worries at all... I thank you for putting up with a short guy on a tall soapbox Anthony Calfo:)>

Bubble tip
Dear Bob and Crew,
I have had a bubble tip anemone for the last 3 months. The anemone was orange when I first got him but after a month it turned green. Does this mean anything? improper lighting?
<Does mean something... maybe not improper but different lighting, nutrition, water chemistry...>
Now some of the tips have a milky white substance in the tips. Maybe about 10% of the tips. They look like balloons with white powder in them. What's going on? Should I do something?
<Maybe... I'd investigate the practical husbandry of this species, try to change its living conditions to be somewhat like the wild. Have you read over the materials posted on WetWebMedia.com re Anemones? The Breeder's Registry? Please start here: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and continue on. Bob Fenner>
Karun

Bubble Tip Anemone
Thank you for your reply and your suggestions -- they were very helpful. I have a question again -- sorry to bug you.
<Earnest questions, input are never a bother>
I've had this green bubble tip Anemone for about 15 days now. I've noticed that he doesn't seem to be the same color as when I first got him. When he came in I placed him in a spot where he could be easily seen (good frontal view). He had green tentacles with a gorgeous bright red foot.
<Yes... more like in the wild than what typically happens in the process of collection, holding, shipping, captive husbandry... loss of zooxanthellae, vigor...>
He has since moved to the back of the tank where I don't have a good "front" view of him (mostly a side view) and his tentacles seem to be different in color. His foot is still bright red though. He opens up beautifully so I don't think he's unhealthy (I've never seen him shriveled up or anything) -- I was just wondering if maybe my view is distorted or do they indeed change colors?
<They can, do.>
Is this a bad sign? Should I worry? My water parameters are excellent -- my salinity level is at 1.022.
See any cause for concern there?
<Always reason for concern... Please read through the "Anemone" sections of our site starting here: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm on to the linked files, FAQs there and the Breeder's Registry (link on the Marine Links page) re these animal's care. One item: I would maintain your spg nearer to natural... 1.025 or so>
My friend had one come in a pinkish color and change to almost pure white.
Hers is open though and seems healthy --staying in one spot. Is this color change normal or cause for alarm?
<Normal as in typical for aquarium use... not normal as in not optimal for their care... need to be maintained in circumstances more like the wild (more current, light intensity...) w/o much interruption to retain zooxanthellae, health. Bob Fenner>
Thanks once again! :)

- Wandering BTA -
I have just started a tank and my Bubble is moving to the back of the tank, not only can I not see it, that is where the light is worst.
<How old is this tank that you have introduced a sensitive anemone into?>
I have a 29Gallon system with the CoralLife 130w (1-65w white and 1-65w actinic).
<Adequate lighting>
He seems to be doing ok but is wandering and I do not want him in the back of the tank as where he can not be seen. He is also carrying a little white crab with him for the ride which will also not be seen in the back somewhere. How can I get him to move more to the front?
<You'll have to literally pick it up and plop it back down somewhere you want it to go and cross your fingers. If it's wandering around, it's not happy. You may want to wait a bit though, as they tend to anchor themselves deep inside the rockwork and pop out in a nice high-light spot. Although it's just a big stinging bag of nerves, they are smart enough to move to a more appropriate spot if given time. If not, well, then you'll have to do it for him! -Kevin>

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