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FAQs on Chemical Filtrants Marine in Filtration 2
Related FAQs: Chemical Filtrants 1,
Marine Maintenance, Nitrates 2,
Nitrates 3, Nitrates 4,
Nitrates 5, Nitrates 6,
Nitrites, Ammonia,
Phosphate, Silicates,
Biological Filtration, Fluidized Beds,
Denitrification/Denitrifiers, Wet-Dry
Filters,
R.O./Distilled/Treated Water,
Related Articles: Marine Chemical
Filtrants,
Zeolite Filters: A Discussion of What Zeolites Are and How They
Function by Jens Kallmeyer,
The ZEOvit System: A New Concept in Reefkeeping by Alexander
Girz, A premiere product offered
for many uses. | 
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R7: Green Hair Algae Problem (Ready to quit!), &
Polyfilter/Chem Filt. media f' – 09/07/09
Hi Eric:
<<Hey Cindy>>
I really do not want to take up to much more of your site time and
space. You are just so darn helpful and I need to be organized before
the show, here goes another couple of thousand dollars.
<<Cha-ching!>>
I recently bought a book called the Conscientious Marine Aquarist (seems
more current then most my other books) which I was reading last night.
<<Ah yes…authored by Bob Fenner here at WWM>>
They mention those Poly-Bio Marine Filter Pads there, a favorite of
advanced hobbyists such as yourself apparently.
<<An excellent product…very useful…all should have a few on hand for
contingencies, if not just daily use…>>
When I told Jim exactly what I was after, he too knew right away and
highly recommended the pads as well.
<<Ah good…must admit I was a bit perplexed when you stated earlier that
he didn’t know what they were>>
I ordered 6 packages since they only seem to come in 3x 10 sheets.
<<Ah no… Can be obtained in 12”x12” sheets, and though harder to find
these days, also in 3” discs (12pk)…with both of these being stronger
concentrations/formulations than the 3”x10” pads. But not to worry…the
3”x10” pads will work very well for you. Do take a little time to
research the site/product and learn a bit more re their use/function>>
At least I know I can get them through him.
<<Very good>>
I haven't seen them in my catalogs under ion exchange or filter medias.
<<Hmm, should be… Perhaps under “chemical media”>>
Why he didn't tell me about them sooner is part of my frustration
sometimes with him but he is by far the best game in town and only 1 1/2
hours away.
<<Yikes…still a long haul>>
He isn't always as helpful as he could be.
<<Can’t always “think of everything”…ask me, I know [grin]>>
Part of my frustration is "lack of availability" in this area.
<<This is where learning/using the Internet is of great value>>
I have traveled hours in the past in search of a good supplier only to
find their tanks look even worse than mine.
<<Indeed…nothing more perplexing than to walk in to a store to see tanks
in disarray…dying/dead fish on display>>
The stores we do have cater more towards the average hobbyist (not that
there is anything wrong with that but product lines are often limited
for example I like much of Brightwell Aquatic's product line) but
anything specialized I might need I ALWAYS have to special order.
<<Okay…I’ll say it again… Internet…>>
I am trying to take advantage of the show next weekend and the discounts
they offer. The more info I can gather.......... Bob is right, I have
only been online for three weeks now so I need to do much exploring.
<<Ah! Yes… Much to explore/learn>>
I do not blame Bob at all; I know he is only trying to encourage me to
continue in my research. I know I have things I need to work on. It is
not that I am not trying heart and soul on my own. Jim told me I just
need to determine who seems to be in most agreement on topics and go
with the overall consensus because it can become so confusing.
<<But not to follow blindly… The onus is on you to at least understand
the arguments>>
I had always wondered about light duration. I was told to only leave my
lights on about 8 hours.
<<And some reef enthusiasts do this…bit I think it should be longer, as
explained>>
I run my lights on my planted tanks 12 hours, even the one with metal
halide lighting.
<<Indeed>>
I always wondered why less for a reef!
<<…>>
I'll up the timers.
<<Yay!>>
Can I run my frag tank on the same light interval as my reef itself or
should it be on alternating.
<<Up to you…but an alternating schedule (since these systems are
interconnected) may provide some pH support>>
I have read the refugium has to be on alternating time intervals
<<Doesn’t have to be, but can be beneficial for the same reason just
stated>>
but then again some stuff I have read recommends 24 hour lighting on the
refugium.
<<This is dependent on the type macroalgae utilized (if/when utilized).
Most Caulerpa species are best kept under such lighting to preclude any
“sexual” events that can poison a system. But if using Chaetomorpha (my
choice/recommendation) in a refugium, a “rest period” is beneficial>>
See things like this confuse me
<<Merely requires further reading/researching>>
and I do not no where to find a good reliable source until I found you.
I'm willing to spend the money, invest my time and do the research but
sometimes I just don't know where to look.
<<I do understand…and it “will” become easier in time>>
Re- Generators… Please fellow hobbyists: I hope no one ever has to go
through the total loss of a reef. Eric is absolutely right. The
investment in a generator (small in comparison) by far outweighs the
cost of losing a reef system to say nothing of your time and work
investment.
<<Well said>>
Calculate that into the total cost of your basic set-ups, you'll likely
be glad you did. All it can take is 1/2 hour before you are into serious
biological breakdown, especially within your canister filters. If in the
event of a long term power outage disconnect all your canister filters
and remove the hoses because you know they are gone anyway and will need
to recycle, clean and be totally refreshed. Stale water in hoses pumped
into your system once power is restored can easily kill a delicate tank.
If push comes to shove and you can't afford much by way of a generator,
get enough of a generator that you can keep your heaters running and
install airstones to keep oxygen going to your live rock, and stock.
<<Really…all that is “needed” is enough power to pump water from the
sump to the display, and/or to run a powerhead or two (if you don’t have
a sump) along with your heater(s)>>
Small generators can usually power a compact florescent set-up but not
always a halide lighting system.
<<The lighting can wait anyway>>
They really suck "generator juice". Re- the refugium/sump: I think I may
be putting the cart before the horse here Eric so I need you to tell me
if I am wrong. I planned on using the overflow water from the reef
itself (hence the use of a multi directional spray bar to defuse the
water pressure coming down from the reef) to feed water into the
refugium (remind you I have the FX5 working on the reef itself).
<<Ah, okay…this is fine…though the use of the spray bar should not be
necessary and may even cause unwanted restriction/trapping of
particulates>>
The refugium itself would be lighted and the waterfall would go into the
sump.
<<Okay>>
I have well established substrate in the sump complete with sand sifter
star fish, sea cucs etc. which I planned on putting into the refugium
along with some live rock. The sump would basically only contain the
protein skimmer (which is a foot in diameter) pumps and anything else
you recommend.
<<Ah good…best to keep the sump and refugium separate when possible…in
my opinion>>
I did not plan on lighting the sump too because of its close proximity
to the frag tank.
<<And not necessary or even desirable (re algae accumulation in the
skimmer body/other ancillary filtration devices) in most instances>>
Oh yea, planted is definitely the freshwater equivalent of a reef,
especially if you use metal halide lighting and keep delicate fish!!!
The Netherlands!!!! You know planted aquariums don't you Eric?
<<Mmm, not really… That was three decades ago (Yowza!), and I’ve been
totally committed to marine/reef systems for the last two now>>
They wrote the book!
<<They were plentiful there/then…and beautiful too>>
I am sorry this is so long-winded. I didn't expect to hear from you
again.
<<We do respond to “all”>>
"Thanks Eric"
Cindy
<My pleasure Cindy… Eric Russell>>
Large Green Hairy Mushroom Problem, Tropical Sciences, et al. HPO4
filtrant products 12/02/08
Greetings,
<Salutations>
I've had a large green hairy mushroom for about a year now and it has
been doing great. However, I recently used a phosphate pad
<... all
life needs some phosphate...>
from a company called Tropical Science
and had very poor results that I think have affected the mushroom. The
pad came sealed in bag, but saturated with a ferric hydroxide solution
and who knows what else. I should have known better, but I placed the
pad in the filter stream of the tank. The water began to immediately
cloud up and the mushroom and other corals began closing. I ignorantly
left the pad in and after a few hours the water cleared somewhat and
corals began opening partially. I left the pad in for a day and then
removed it, followed by activated carbon and a 25% water change. Ever
since then the large hairy mushroom will not open fully like it did
previously. It will open about halfway, but that's it. Today I saw
filaments coming from its mouth which I know is not a good sign. I lost
one other coral after using the phosphate pad, but all others have
recovered fully (open brain, some polyps, some other mushrooms, and a
plate coral).
Is the large mushroom doomed?
<No... that it is
opening at all... is still alive, is a good sign>
Don't know what
else to do here, but I don't want the mushroom to begin melting and
polluting the tank.
<Mmm, do you have another system to move it to?>
I used to feed this guy every week and it seemed like a very hardy
species. I'm not sure now after the phosphate pad incident. By the way,
the Tropical Science phosphate pads are a complete joke.
<Mmm, don't
know much re this particular product. Was at a hobbyist pitch years back
where someone... (Steve?) gave a talk re their (he worked for the
company), and he seemed quite knowledgeable. But, if you take a read
through WWM, my public writings, you'll find I am not a fan of these
sorts of chemical filtrants period>
They are sold on many websites.
It's basically a kitchen sponge soaked in ferric chloride and some type
of hydroxide to supposedly yield ferric hydroxide. It's a messy product
and damages corals. I confirmed it raises pH dramatically by soaking a
pad in a bucket of tank water and seeing the pH go from 8.2 to 9.0.
<Yikes!>
A truly useless and dangerous product. I have switched to
Rowaphos pads with no problems.
<This product/line/manufacturer is
highly regarded internationally>
It really irks me to see a vendor
package and market a dysfunctional product.
<Have you written them
(Tropical Science)? I would>
Ah, enough ranting, any advice on the
hairy mushroom?
Thanks,
Greg
<Just to provide stable,
optimized circumstances... keep offering it food... and stay away from
chemical filtrants... i.e, re the last, look to other means to limit
nutrient. Please read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner> HELPP!! Poisoned system... Chem.
trtmt. of BGA... no reading 9/20/08
How are y'all doing?
So I have a HUGE problem, all seeming to have to
do with that "red slime killer" stuff.
so I had a BIT of an inherited
slime problem. I got 200 lb of live rock FREE that had a red slime
problem. I didn't complain seeing as how I just got 1000+ dollars of
free stuff.
<Free is as free does...>
ANYWAYS so the red slime was
acting red slimy, I would suck it off, 2 hours later it would be back.
So I got tired of this and gave in to the easiness of that yellow
powder.
<... live and burn>
It has worked WONDERFULLY, but its
working too well, and has killed ALL of my coral and my anemone AND IS
STARTING TO KILL MY MUSHROOMS TOO!!!! It has also killed my flame angel
( that came with the rock) and a grey trigger with a yellow tail ( that
also came with the rock).
and ALL of this death has been in just
about a week. And now all my fish are acting strangely.
my clownfish
( who had been hosting in the coral) are looking sad and mopey, and my
other tangs just disappear for the longest time.
WTF IS GOING ON???
<... poisoned>
i had my parameters checked by my LFS ( i cant afford
the test) but the only thing that was bad was that my nitrates were a
little high.
do you think the red slime killer effed up the water
chemistry OR removed some of the O2 content in the water? It said on the
box that it MIGHT do that. And also, do you think i would have a case if
I went after the company for killing my fish?
<Worth investigating>
OH also, that trigger died JUST like my other trigger did, except WAY
quicker.
he had a red throat and no teeth and had the wormie thingies
coming out of his mouth, just like my old niger trigger did.
now what
gets my goat is that i have a Picasso trigger that hasn't died yet.
weird? i think so.
what do you guys think?
thanks alot
<No
such word>
Mat
<Read? Here?:
http://wetwebmedia.com/maralgcidefaqs.htm
Oh, why not... and the
linked files above. Bob Fenner> Use of Purigen/Carbon/Polyfilter
and Algae 8/6/08
Good Evening,
<Hello Sean.>
I have been
battling some green hair algae problems and it was recommended to me by
one of your crew (M. Maddox) to use Purigen, activated carbon, phosphate
sponge and Polyfilter.
<I would pick one of these, not the phosphate
sponge. Running all of this will do too much and start a whole new set
of issues. The best course of action would be to find the fuel source
for the algae and control it.>
I do regular 7 gallon weekly (at
least) water changes with only RO water. I also picked up a protein
skimmer (CPR SR3) which has been up and running about 2 weeks now. My
question is does Purigen require water to be forced through it like
carbon and phos sponge? The directions don't say anything specific like
the phos sponge and carbon directions do.
<You will need to flow
water through it, yes.>
Also I have an 29gallon Oceanic BioCube and
I'm trying to find places to stuff the media bags. Would it be in my
best interest to use a canister filter or would stuffing media bags into
high flow areas accomplish the same thing?
<This is one point of
consideration re which media. If you do not have a suitable space for
bagged media, the Polyfilter is a good choice. Really, there is no need
to run both.>
Also can/should I mix different medias together into a
single bag and put it in high flow (I know this won't apply to phos
sponge because it needs to be removed in 2 days)?
<You could mix, but
doing so takes away your opportunity to remove one or the other if need
be.>
Also how much of these medias can/should I use (not much
indication on directions)?
<A few tablespoons of carbon is all for a
system this size. The Polyfilter can be cut to fit your filtration on
the tank, this will force the water to flow through the filter.>
I
have heard that carbon can potentially bleach corals. Is this true?
<It some systems the sudden use of too much of these filtrants can cause
shock, both chemically and physically; lighting intensity increase due
to increased water clarity.>
Thanks for any and all help!
Best
regards,
Sean
<Welcome, I have included a link below for you.
This will give you the general idea behind what to look for battling the
algae. Good luck, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
Carbon, Phos, Nitrate reactor. 5/12/08
Hello, hope all is
well.
<Is on my end for the most part.>
I have an off the wall
question for you guys. Is there and such thing as over cleaning and
Saltwater tank.
<Hee, can be.>
I have recently put a Phosban,
Nitrate, and carbon reactor on my 140 and was wondering if there was a
issue with doing such.
<Again, can be!>
In addition there is a
Aqua C 180 and a Cal reactor as well. The reactors are all Two Little
Fishes and all are set to a low flow. I've seen many tanks with Phos and
carbon, but very few with Nitrate. I figured it couldn't hurt, but now
have wondered if it is a little much. Any help would be great.
<Do
be aware that life forms do require some soluble phosphate and many of
the phosphate removing media are too effective! Do test your levels and
use only when they are getting too high. For the nitrate reactor, you
will honestly be better served with a DSB and/or macroalgae refugium.
These units can work, I just like to let the system naturally work for
you!>
Thanks Matthew.
<Welcome.>
Life Is A Reef
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>
<Love the signature, Scott
V.>
Chemi-Pure Overuse... lack of reading re chemical filtrants, Crypt...
3/6/08
Hello All,
<Jackie>
I am wondering if my tank may
have suffered from carbon shock. About 3 weeks ago I added Chemi-pure to
my sump.
<Mmm, even this high-quality product gets "used up" fairly
quickly... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm
and the
linked files above>
I have a 90 gallon reef tank that has been up and
running for a little over a year. About a week after adding the
Chemi-pure I noticed that my Kole Eye Tang was looking a little pale. A
few days later he looked as though he may have developed ich (I think I
noticed about 5 or so white dots). I decided to keep an eye on him for a
couple of days (in the mean time I setup my QT tank). Roughly two days
later my Yellow Tang had a few white dots (which I'll assume was ich). I
was able to catch the Kole Eye Tang and move him to my QT tank treated
with Cupramine (spelling)<Corrected>. The QT tank
salinity, temp, and
PH matched the main tank. I was not able to catch the Yellow Tang.
<... if there is a protozoan infestation, all fishes need to be
captured, moved... Draining the tank/system if necessary, most
practical>
The next day Kole was upside down pressed against the
filter. At this point I'm very leery of adding other fish to the QT tank
(I'm sure you think I'm crazy).
<... is not a QT, but a treatment
tank...>
It's been a few days and Yellow no longer has the white
dots.
<Cycling... will be back... see WWM re Cryptocaryon
life-cycle... treatment possibilities>
However, she is very pale
about the face.
Back to the Chemi-pure. The product I purchased
supports a 200 gal tank. I was not aware when I purchased it that you
can't split it up.
So, I called Boyd Chemi-pure and explained my
dilemma. He said that I could still use the 200 units in my 90 gal
without adversely effecting the tank inhabitants.
<I concur>
I'm
now wondering if he gave me sound advise.
<Advice>
Is it a
coincidence that my fish started to stress out shortly after adding the
Chemi-pure?
<Likely so, yes>
If not, should I remove the
Chemi-pure? Not sure if removing it will also cause additional stress.
Can too much carbon adversely affect my corals and inverts?
<Mmm,
can... read where you were referred to... but not likely in otherwise
well-set-up and maintained systems>
They seem to be doing fine at
this point.
Thanks,
Jackie
<Read... then act, but soon. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Water chemistry question 2/23/08
Sorry for bugging you
again, forgot to ask the greenish brown color the PolyFilter does
that suggest its a regular organic compound like ammonia, nitrates
and others?
<Green is often metallic... brown... most anything.
BobF>
Re: Water chemistry question, PolyFilter f' - 3/5/08
Ok, last update/last question. I've been moved into my house for a
few days, my tank is still in my apartment. I was in my apartment
last night at
about 3am because I got a call from the property
manager that water was leaking to the apartment below; my float
valves failed and the pump sent 5 gallons of fresh water into my
sump that overflowed 4 gallons of water to the apartment below.
Anyway while I was there disconnecting the sump from the main tank I
noticed that the poly-filter is now half green and half red. Is the
red color stand for iron in the water?
<Typically ferrous
material... iron rust>
If so could the tufa base rock have
leached the toxic chemical into my good Fiji rock or should i not
worry about that?
<Tufas are indeed often problematical. Do a
search on WWM to see...>
I appreciate the help you've given me
and I can understand now that if the chemical is iron how bad that
could affect my tank.
<Ah yes. Cheers, BobF> |
Please Advise, Chemipure SW use or not 12/9/07
Just checking the following set up is ok. I have a fish only 1000L tank
with sump filtration. The skimmer being used is a Deltec AP-701. The
outlet of this skimmer is directed into the last compartment of the
sump, along with the main return pump. Along with the skimmer I am using
a Sander C200 and a Pin Point ORP controller. I also have an Eheim
canister that contains 10 units of Chemi-Pure, the inlet and outlet
hoses are also placed in the last compartment of the sump.
<Mmm, I'd
move the intake to a more anterior compartment>
I change the carbon
out at around 6 months as I have a low bio load.
<And likely label
some how the Chemi-pure bags... and switch out two oldest for new every
month...>
Do you think that the carbon will expire fast due to the
use of the ozone.
<Mmm, no>
Was thinking of removing the Eheim
and only using the ozone, or would you recommend to continue using the
Chemi-Pure?.
<Well... depends... on what you are hoping to "get" by
its use... and if you sense you're "getting it"... Likely the Carbon
plus resin product is improving water clarity, removing some undesirable
materials... but "enough" to satisfy you? The Eheim is likely "no fun"
to service... You could leave off with its use and see if there is a
difference... Bob Fenner>
Regards
Alan
Poly-Filter Over Carbon...Too Aggressive? – 09/17/07
Dear Crew,
<<Alan>>
Been thinking of using only Poly-Filter instead of activated
carbon because of cost concern.
<<Is a great product...use it
myself>>
Can Poly-Filter do the "duty" of activated carbon?
<<Yep>>
Read that Poly-Filter will also absorb ammonia and nitrate
but by doing so, won't it affect the biological filtration by means of
starving the beneficial bacteria?
<<Mmm, you pose an interesting
question...but one of little concern I think. It is true the bacteria
populations will adjust to the available nutrient load, but most
hobbyists’ systems can use a little help re. The benefits of using the
Poly-Filter product will outweigh your fears here...in my opinion>>
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Alan
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>
Algone, free Jellies 8/6/07
Hi. I have 2 questions
pls. 1) Does Algone work in all ways it says it does?
<According to
the companies posted info., the folks who re-sell it, and many users,
yes>
2) I started my refugium just less than a month ago...Is there
such a thing as some sort of jellyfish to hatch in my refugium?
<Oh,
yes>
they look & swim like them. They look like aliens, are about 1mm
or a bit smaller & are invisible with 1 white dot on its head & few
white dots???
Ghulam
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/jellyidfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Re: Algone 8/7/07
Thanks for the info Bob. You guys are much
great help & an amazing site. I just found it a month ago & cant get
enough of it! Thanx again.
<Thank you my friend. Please do relate
your personal experiences with this product should you use it. Cheers,
Bob Fenner>
Chem. filtr., SW, Carbon 7/13/07
Hi
there!
<Hello Nicolas>
I just want to say thank you very much for
the wonderful site you guys have! You have always answered my questions
very quickly, and for that I am in your debt! :)
<thank you!>
My
shrimp just molted and I'm extremely excited. Ha.
<Congrats!>
Anyways, I have a question about Chemical filtration.
I have a
30g with two clowns, the cleaner shrimp, 6 hermits, and a couple of
polyp colonies. Would it be overkill to use to containers of Chemi pure
in my canister filter?
<I believe that one container of Dick Boyd's
Chemi-Pure will be more than enough. It is rated for use for 3 months,
however I recommend that it be changed out every 30 days. This prevents
the media from becoming saturated with any one substance that it is
removing. In heavily stocked systems I rinse the product once a week in
freshwater, but that won't be necessary for you. What I would recommend
is that you add a phosphate removing resin in the form of an iron oxide
product. (Phosban, Phos-Pure, Rowaphos, PhosAr) to aid in the removal of
phosphates and other dissolved organic compounds. With any reef tank,
please make sure that your fresh water source is filtered via RO/DI to
remove any nutrients before being used in the aquarium. With the use of
these 2 products in a canister filter and regular water changes you will
be treated to a beautiful, healthy aquarium!>
Thank you very much!
<No problem, Rich aka Mr. Firemouth> Heavy Nutrient Issues
and Refugium Questions. – 05/07/07
Greetings,
<Jason.>
I have a few questions about my refugium.
<Okay.>
I have a 60 gallon FOWLR with a sand bed ~4 inches deep.
I've added
on a CPR Refugium to help reduce our nitrate levels which have come down
from 80 to 40 over the past 6 months or so since I added the refugium.
<Still very high though, I would be supplementing with frequent and
large water changes my friend. As well as trying to find out what the
source is; to much livestock? Overfeeding? Not enough water changes?
Poor source water? A Build up of nutrients or detritus somewhere in the
system? Are you using a protein-skimmer?>
The refugium itself has
about a 3 inch sand bed with some live rock and some Chaetomorpha. So
here are my questions:
1. I can't seem to keep the Chaetomorpha
anchored. It always seems to float to the top of water and the lights
end up baking it. Any ideas?
<Well Chaeto does not use hold-fasts
it is a tumbling weed. I would not try to anchor it but I would increase
the water flow in the fuge to keep the mass tumbling.>
Currently i
<I> have a couple of live rocks on top of it.
<That’s not how this
“beast” operates my friend…it is meant to be free floating.>
2. I
have some brown hair algae that has been pretty persistent in the
refugium.
<High nutrient levels and poor water flow are
a bad combination.>
I put some turbo snails in the refugium a while
ago and they did a good job on it but one day they all ended up in the
outflow tube and the refugium ended up overflowing overnight and
shorting out most of the electrical to the entire tank, so i've <I’ve>
been hesitant to put anything back in there (any suggestions?).
<I
think you need to increase your water-flow, and star on a “hardcore”
water change regime. I wouldn’t add any animals to the refugium…if
there's something in there you don’t like remove it manually.>
I've added some PhosX pads to the refugium and they may have helped
but not tremendously.
<Yes this well help the symptoms
but not the main issue…you need to find the source of your nutrient
issues.>
3. My local fish store has told me that once the refugium
gets the nitrate levels down to 0-20 we won't need to change the water
anymore. Any truth to that?
<Not at all my friend, it may decrease
the frequency and amount you have to change, but eliminate them…hardly.>
Lastly and unrelated to refugiums. What are some good choices for a
cleanup crew for removing fish waste from the superficial sand layers?
Currently we have a bunch of turbo snails and a few (3 or 4) super
Tongan Nassarius snails and an emerald crab. We had an electric blue
hermit crab that recently kicked the bucket.
<Well invertebrate life
isn’t going to last long in tank with such heavy nutrients, though I am
a fan of the Nassarius snails. That is the first and foremost issue
here. I also am under the impression that the tank needs more water flow
on the whole, if wastes/detritus is settling into the sand; you don’t
have enough water flow to keep it suspended…and maybe your sand is to
coarse.>
Thank you guys for all of your help, never does a week go
by where I don't utilize your website to some extent!!
<Thank you
and keep reading.>
Jason
<Adam J.> Searching instead
of asking, pt.1 2/18/07
I am looking for a product
called Cleanwater A 50 made by c. r. products. its a bag of filter
material. any ideas where to find it.
<Google. I found many links to info, and vendors as well. [Hint: is
marketed by a prominent U.S. Aquatics company here, not C.R. Products,
the Netherlands originate. Hint#2 Pe-- - Pl--] If this doesn't get you
closer, I might be inclined to help a bit with a link, but think doing
one's own research to be more useful in the long run.
-GrahamT>
Dave Dedlow Chemical Filtration 1/5/07
Hello,
I am planning on implementing Purigen in my filtration,
<PO4
reduction is good...>
however, I currently use Stresscoat and have
heard of negative product interactions resulting in possible fish death.
<If you are referring to Aquarium Pharm. Stresscoat, then the "reports"
partly true. SC is anime-based and thusly will bond with the resin. If
you don't plan to regenerate the Purigen, then this is not a problem.
However, if/when you do try regeneration, chlorine will combine with the
amines and make a bigger, toxic word: chloramine.>
Do you have any
recommendations on a substitute for it that would not cause negative
effects, and how long should I wait from the last time I used stresscoat
until implementing the Purigen?
<If you go to Purigen's
site:
http://seachem.com/support/FAQs/Purigen_faq.html You'll see more on
this topic and their idea of an alternative for you. Stresscoat isn't
very long-lasting, but if you want to be sure of complete removal, use
some fresh carbon and wait a week or more.>
Also in my filtration
system I plan on running Super Activated Carbon and ROWAphos. Any
comments would be greatly appreciated.
<I have no experience with
ROWAphos, BUT everything I read/hear is very good. The "older" methods
of PO4 removal always leech back into your system eventually, but
ROWAphos is a "never-leech" product. Use it!>
Also, It is a 30gal
reef tank with a few LPSs and sps corals, currently running all PCs soon
to be 175w 14k MH with PC dual actinic.
<That is a lot of light! Do
your corals seem to need that? I just think you might find a smaller
solution without the waste heat.>
Thanks,
Jason
<You're
welcome, Jason. Remember, actinic is for looks, not growth. You can try
a swap with a 10k and save up front and long term over the HID. -Graham
T.> Adding Chemical Filtration - 10/21/06
Bob,
<<EricR here>>
I am graduating my current fish only live rock tank
to reef tank...I have a 29 gallon, 4.5 watt per gallon, established fish
only w/live rock tank that has been up for a year with amazing success.
<<Cool!>>>>
I will be employing an AquaC Remora skimmer.
<<Excellent>>
However, I will be removing my Penguin 280 power
filter with BioWheel because my 45 pounds (1.5lb per gallon) of live
rock will be my biological filtration.
<<Okay>>
My question
is...how do I incorporate chemical filtration in the form of carbon now
that I only run a skimmer?
<<Does pose a problem with out a
sump. You could simply drop a bag in to a corner of the tank for
passive filtration but that won't look good. I suggest you add a small
canister filter (sans any mechanical media) to the system to use for
carbon/chemical filtration...will definitely be worth the added
expense>>
Please advise....
<<Regards, EricR>> Re: New
Marine Setup/Cloudy Water - 09/07/06
Eric and Crew,
<<Hey
Rick!>>
You've done it again. I followed your advice and the water
has steadily cleared up.
<<Ahh...always gratifying to hear/read>>
I placed the powerheads back in the aquarium as directed and simply
waited this thing out. Within 3 days the bloom was practically gone.
<<As is usually the case. I'm glad you were able to muster the patience
to wait it out>>
Now, after a week the water is crystal clear and
I'm getting some really interesting growth in the Live Rock (By the way,
I ordered my live rock from LiveAquaria.com, select Lalo rock, it's
gorgeous and I'd highly recommend it ).
<<I have been hearing much
praise for this rock of late>>
I do, however, have a few quick
questions, if you have the time.
<<Certainly>>
The temperature
is hovering around 84 degrees since placing the powerheads back in the
aquarium.
<<As does mine this time of year...not a big concern,
though you don't want it creeping up much higher>>
I've ordered
small fans to install in the hood in hopes of reducing it down to around
76-78 degrees. Can I hope to expect this much of a change?
<<Not
likely...a 2-4 degree drop is probably more realistic>>
I realize
this may be a guessing game, but if I need to take further measures I'd
like to start ASAP.
<<Lets see what the fans accomplish and go from
there. You're near the upper limit on temperature, but the addition of
the fans should give you a few more "degrees" of breathing space. If
the fans you are adding are simply to "exhaust" the hood then do
consider adding a small "clip-on" or similar fan to "blow directly
across the surface of the water" to speed evaporative cooling>>
Secondly, I had a bag of Chemipure break in my sump.
<<Hate it when
that happens>>
I've cleaned out the sump, but not before the carbon
fragments got into the tank.
<<Mmm, yes...teeny bits they are>>
They're appearing in patches on my substrate.
<Not a concern. The
carbon will simply act/perform as any other porous material in the long
term by colonizing with bacteria...very much like your live rock/sand
does>>
I'm cleaning this out as best as I can, but with 120 lbs of
live rock it's difficult to get it all.
<<No doubt>>
Should I
remove the rock and meticulously clean the substrate?
<<I wouldn't>>
Can this be harmful to the aquatic life?
<<Nothing to be concerned
with here>>
Last question, as far as stocking is concerned, I'd like
to gradually add the following life to the aquarium and was hoping you
could provide your opinion.
<<Well Rick, when it comes to "stocking"
I definitely have opinions...and am always glad to share>>
Two
ocellaris clowns (could you recommend the proper anemone?)
<<Mmm,
trouble here right off the bat my friend. I strongly recommend you
DON'T acquire an anemone until you get a bit more experience under your
belt. It's not that these creatures are "delicate doilies" so much
(some few species are quite hardy), but they do present their own
special challenges...and risks...that are very easily/often
overlooked. For certain you don't want to introduce an anemone to this
very new system...and certainly you don't want to mix this animal with
other cnidarians. The clowns will do fine without a host anemone...but
if you really want to attempt this animal I recommend you spend time
reading/researching and decide if you're capable and committed to
providing the correct environment for the long-term health of these
virtually immortal creatures>>
1-Long Nose Butterfly, 1-coral banded
or fire shrimp,
<<The fire (blood) shrimp gets my vote...less
destructive of the two and "may" facilitate as a biological parasitic
control (cleaner). The coral-banded shrimp will likely devour/destroy
most all the emergent life on your live rock>>
1-Orchid Dottyback,
1-Coral Beauty, 1-Blue Girdled Angel,
<<As a fish mix, these are
fine. If you did acquire an anemone, the butterfly and the angels would
likely prove incompatible>>
and 1-small puffer/Toby (something in
the Canthigaster genus).
<<Also would not be compatible with the
anemone>>
I'm leery about the Toby as some sources state that they
can be "fin nippers".
<<Not can..."are"...and more than just
fins! Tobies are generally hardy/interesting aquarium specimens, but
they need to be housed with "agile" fishes to avoid getting
nipped...would also pose a threat to many/most crustaceans/inverts>>
Can you recommend a species that tends to be less aggressive?
<<Mmm,
the "nipping" behavior is indicative of the genus (most all "puffer"
genera) as far as I'm aware>>
In lieu of the puffer I was also
considering a Hawkfish (Flame or Long Nose). Any advice you can provide
would be appreciated and not taken lightly.
<< Ah yes, well
Grasshopper...Wait/study-up for now on all the commonly kept/available
anemones, and go with the hawkfish if you’re uncertain about the Toby
(either species of hawk is fine, though I really like Oxycirrhites
typus...this species would also be less risk to the shrimp)>>
Thanks
again.
Rick in DE
<<Always welcome my
friend. Eric Russell in SC>>
Eheim For Rowaphos
9/4/06
Dear James
Hope you are well.
<Not bad, thank
you.>
A further question or two.
At the moment I run 2 Eheim
filters on my 37g reef tank : 1 mechanical and 1 wet and dry.
There
would seem to be enough space in the bottom basket of the
mechanical filter to add an inch or so of Rowaphos which I would like to
use to eliminate phosphate. Maybe I could mix Rowaphos with the Eheim
media, or replace the whole bottom basketful with the Rowaphos.
<I'd
do the whole basket.>
Does this sound like a fair idea and/or would
it ruin the efficiency of the filter?
<Should be fine.>
If you
think I should keep the filters as they are (I know you guys are
not great fans of Eheim always,
<I've never had problems with the
Eheim line.>
but I am 'afraid' to take them out of action) are you
acquainted with the Deltec MCE600 skimmer which has a space for
adding Rowaphos. Is that a good option perhaps?
<If you are not
presently using a skimmer, this would be a very good option.
Not
familiar with Deltec, but understand they are a efficient skimmer.>
Many thanks for your time.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
All the best.
Peter Hosier Reef Lighting Upgrade (Probably
Not Necessary), and Zeolite Filtr. tech. SW - 07/30/06
Hey
everyone,
<<Howdy Marc!>>
Thanks as always for the time you put
into helping others with what can be a daunting hobby at times. More so
when you are only starting out.
<<We're happy to assist>>
My
email is to ask about two areas that I have to finalize with my reef
tank (4x2x2).
<<OK>>
I am in the process of upgrading from an
LPS and softy dominated tank to SPS, corals and clams.
<<I see>>
1. Lighting - I currently run two 150w DE MH with 14K globes and four NO
fluorescent actinics. As I plan to change over to an SPS tank I am keen
to increase my lighting to improve my chances of color and growth with
the corals.
<<Mmm, likely no "upgrade needed re the lighting...but
if you wish to increase PAR, a simple change to 10K bulbs will do it>>
I have read a great number of the posts on the web site. I take it
from the various authors' comments that I should not go with 400w MH for
this depth tank but rather go with 250w MH at around 6 inches above the
water.
<<Well Marc, you likely also realize that the opinions on
lighting vary about as much as the number of questions re. Were this
me, I would give the 150w DE 10K bulbs a go before spending the money to
"upgrade" to higher wattage ballasts/fixtures>>
I have looked at
many tanks and I am confused then why there are
still so many tanks
running 400w MH halides and what benefit they may see from this over
250w MH (although many of these lights are 10+ inches off the water -
which may make some difference).
<<Indeed my friend...you have to
realize there are variables that determine your "power" requirements
(water clarity, supplemental nutrition, species, placement, bulb
type/color, etc.)...but some folks are convinced or just want to believe
if they throw enough wattage at their tank then "all will be beautiful",
while ignoring or overlooking other husbandry aspects>>
If I do not
need the extra wattage then here's to saving the dollars and spending
them on something more useful for the tank such as more circulation
(currently around 20x - advice hopefully well taken).
<<Agreed>>
2. Zeolite - I have seen a number of tanks running Zeolite as a nutrient
control method for SPS tanks. I currently run a Berlin style system
with a DSB and Jaubert plenum chamber and a 15g refugium. I run an
Aquamedic skimmer rated for 250g odd tank size and do semi-regular water
changes (about 10% each 2 weeks - a little bit slack on this).
<<Mmm...the water changes are about the single best improvement you can
make...best not to be "slack" here>>
I also run carbon which is
changed every 4 - 6 weeks. What is your opinion on the Zeolite system
and do you recommend it as an extra means to control nutrient levels.
<<I have not had much interest/kept current on this Zeolite (Zeovit)
fad. Try visiting this site for some info: http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?p=35065#post35065>>
I understand that circulation, lighting and nutrient levels are the
three major keys to SPS coral keeping (correct me if I am wrong) and
therefore these are areas I am keen to get spot on to ensure a colorful
and healthy tank.
<<Would like to add that among the "many" aspects
of this hobby, these three are "key" to "any type" marine system>>
Any help you can give is greatly appreciated and thanks again for the
effort you put into the hobby.
<<Quite welcome...I hope the
information is of use to you>>
Cheers,
Marc
<<Regards,
EricR>>
Using Seachem's de*nitrate - 06/27/06
Hi
Crew,
<<Hello Tim>>
I decided to try Seachem's de*nitrate. In
order to maintain a low water flow as recommended to grow the anaerobic
bacteria, I opted to use a cheap corner filter dedicated for this
purpose, with an air pump of 150 liters per hour to draw water through
the filter.
<<Okay>>
This filter is filled with mostly
de*nitrate, with some filter wool at the top (which is where I
understand water is drawn in).
<<Yes>>
However, now I am not
sure whether this type of set up will be any good for anaerobic
bacteria. Could you please advise?
<<Should work fine...as long as
the filter holds the recommended amount of media for your system. As
you indicated, this media works best with a low flow rate (less than
50gph) which should be achievable with the filter you describe. As an
alternative, you could place the material in a mesh bag and drop in to
your sump (if you have one)>>
Thanks,
Tim
<<Regards, EricR>>
Chemical Media Placement - 05/29/06
Last one I promise!!!
<<No problem <G> >>
Could I put my Phosguard carbon, and Purigen
under my drip tray where the bio balls used to be or does this media
need to be fully submerged under water to work properly.
<<Best
results would come from using this media in a canister filter, but what
you propose will also work. Place the media in a suitable mesh bag and
position it where the water falls/flows over it>>
Thanks
Chris
<<Welcome, EricR>>
Reef Bio Filtration...Keep the Bio-Balls?
II - 05/15/06
As mentioned before, thanks a lot for all the
info.
<<Anytime>>
I took the bio balls out. How do I convert
the Sea Storm to a carbon reactor.
<<Easy enough...replace the sand
with carbon...or replace with one of the ferric oxide medias and use it
as a phosphate filter>>
Or is there something else I can do in the
great big sump area now.
<<Mmm...add a skimmer...maybe another media
reactor/internal filter with some Poly-Filter...or even a lighted macro
algae filter>>
Thanks Again!
Chris
<<Always welcome, EricR>>
Fluidizing ChemiPure? 4/28/06
Love the site!
<Glad you enjoy it! We're thrilled to bring it to you! Scott F. here
today.>
I was interested to know your thoughts on removing
Chemi-Pure from the bag and using it in my Phosban
Reactor? The
manufacturers do not recommend removing it from the bag, but I cannot
see the harm in this
situation (if run properly through the reactor,
low flow, etc.) Do you foresee any problems in doing this?
Regards,
Andrew.
<Good question, Andrew, and the answer is kind of unclear.
While I'm sure that this media would fluidize nicely, I really don't
know if there is any advantage to be gained from using the media in this
manner. On the other hand, by making sure that the media is thoroughly
exposed to the water column, you may be using it more efficiently. My
best recommendation is to contact the manufacturer, Boyd Enterprises,
and get the answer from them. This is a great product, and if it can be
used in this manner, it would that much better! Please let us know what
you find! Regards, Scott F.>
Fluidizing Chemipure? (Pt.2)
5/2/06
Scott,
<Hello again!>
Thanks for the fast
reply. I talked to Mr. Boyd and was told that you can run Chemi-pure
through a fluidized bed filter or Phosban reactor with results
that
equal or exceed traditional methods. However, you must be sure to use
the full contents of the bag, as the different media types tend to
stratify, and you
would not get the right mix if you just used a
portion of the contents. Furthermore, the resin particles are very
small and can potentially escape the reactor.
The recommendation was
to add some filter floss above the media, eliminating the chance of
losing these resins to the tank or sump. The floss would also
allow
increased flow through the reactor.
As such, I look forward to
setting this up and think it will work great. Thanks for your help.
PS - I just picked up Anthony's book and must say how much I have
enjoyed it. It is refreshing to find something so rich with experience
and information for
those of us who would rather think critically
and contemplate ideas than look at pictures, point to them, and say
"that's cool, I want that."
Andrew.
<It's a real
gem, and I know that Anthony would be stoked to hear that you enjoyed it
so much! Thanks for sharing the ChemiPure information! Regards, Scott
F.>
Re: RowaPhos 4/6/06
Att Bob
Fenner Bob you asked that I send the original message.
Bob... Loved your talk to the Seabay Aquarium club in the Bay Area
last year! Here is the original
question.............
Greetings from California! A quick question for you. If RowaPhos is an
iron based media. What would you think of running the outgoing effluent
through activated carbon before it returns to the sump?
Thanks
Richard
James (salty dog) replied with.... For what reason?
<Ahh! Thank you for this. There are variable qualities in such ferrous
based Phosphate filtrants, but the ROWA line are consistently high
quality... Leach little to no iron of consequence. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
PolyFilters 12/8/05
Hey crew,
<Sam>
Just wanted to
know whether you thought it was a good idea to keep PolyFilters in my
Fluval 304 at all times as opposed to sponge filters. I have a 90
gallon with p and tusk, so they produce quite a lot of waste. I also
have a wet/dry, aqua wheel filter, and two powerheads. I usually keep
two sponge filters in two spaces and two poly's in the
other two
spaces in my Fluval. I wasn't sure if this was a good idea to keep the
PolyFilters in 24/7. I thought that it would filter out any medication,
or additive that I would put into my tank, such as purple up, a
coralline algae growth enhancer. Thanks for everything.
<Don't see a
problem using it 24/7. Shouldn't affect your enhancer enough to matter.
Sam, in future queries, please do a spelling/grammar check and cap all
your "i's". It just takes extra time for us to answer these queries when
we also have to edit them for posting. Thanks, James (Salty Dog)>
Chemical Filtration for Post-spawn Clean-up 12/1/05
Hello,
<Good Morning>
I looked over water-polishing entries on WWM and I
didn't see the answer to my specific question, so that's why I'm asking
the crew. I have a rose bulb tip anemone (male) that spawns every month
or two. When he spawns, the water becomes milky and the spawn is
obviously toxic--he once killed an otherwise perfectly healthy damsel.
Anyway, what I do now is use activated carbon in a power filter and also
a canister filter, along with floss to help clear and detoxify the
water. However, this takes 12 hours or maybe more.
I was wondering,
would a water-polishing filter (which I know nothing about) clean the
water up quickly. If yes, what would be an inexpensive, quality product
you might recommend.
<Gary, a water polishing filter such as a
diatom filter will only trap the substance and once this is completed
you need to remove the filter from the tank and clean. A Marineland
Magnum HOB, using the 5 micron filter should do the trick. The filter
cartridge can easily be cleaned in a bleach/water solution for reuse.
Another product you can put in your canister filter is Chemi-Pure. It
has scavenging and ion exchange resins along with a excellent grade of
carbon. I use this product myself and love it. James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you in advance, Gary
<You're welcome> Purigen and
Chem- clean, Better Cleaning Through Chemistry? 12/1/05
Hi,
Bob, or whoever is there tonight!
<James here bright and early in
the am.>
I'm inquiring about 2 products.. although they appear in
the search engine, I couldn't find much: My LFS (a marine biologist in
the making who has several successful marine tanks) recommended two
products to me this evening. He said he no longer uses carbon and
recommends Purigen instead....what do you think of this product and
using it on a regular basis? My nitrates run 20 in all my tanks....0
nitrites, 0 ammonia, ph 8.2 to 8.4 all tanks FOWLR. By the way, no
nitrates in the water source...it's from my well, goes through a water
softener and tests fine.
Also, I've been battling a little Cyano in
my 46 gallon tank for a few months now, tank is 2 years old. Light tank
load (pygmy angel, 2 percula clowns, black line & bicolor blenny, clown
goby, 2 cleaner shrimp) He recommends Chem- clean...says it clears up
Cyano in a few days...any thoughts?
<It may very well clear it up
but it is just a band aid. You have to remove the source of the
problem.>
I've scrubbed the LR that was affected and have been
vacuuming portions of the substrate every couple of days, changing 10%
of the water in the tank. The LR has been okay, but it reappears in the
substrate every day, very frustrating. I'm running a powerhead,
AquaClear 300, and Knop skimmer.
<Lisa, yes it is very frustrating.
I would start by making sure you have at least 450/500 gallons per hour
water movement in your tank. I believe you are probably not at that
mark. Are your 10% water changes done weekly? Watch your feeding habits,
only feed what the fish will consume. Most women are very soft- hearted
and feel sorry for the fish thinking they are not getting enough food.
Excess nutrients in this regard just adds to the problem.
The
Purigen is a good product and improves water clarity and increases redox
potential but we still need to eliminate the food source for the Cyano.
As for the Chem Clean product, I haven't heard enough about it to
comment. Read here for more information.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm. Good luck, James
(Salty Dog)>
Thanks! Lisa
<You're welcome>
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