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FAQs on Condylactis Anemone Systems
Related Articles: Condylactis Anemones,
Anemones, Anemones
of the Tropical West Atlantic,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: Condylactis 1, Condylactis 2, Anemone
Systems,
Condylactis Identification, Condylactis
Compatibility, Condylactis Behavior,
Condylactis Selection,
Condylactis Feeding,
Condylactis Disease,
Condylactis Reproduction,
Atlantic
Anemones 1, Atlantic Anemones 2, Anemones,
Anemones 2, LTAs,
Clownfishes & Anemones,
Anemone
Lighting, Anemone
Reproduction, Anemone
Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone
Selection, Anemone
Behavior,
Anemone
Health, Anemone
Placement, Anemone Feeding,
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Condy Questions plus tank too : )...
James...
2/19/08
I am reading a lot of things on the Internet today. You seem to have
short quick answers. I have a few questions for you guys. I have a 37
Tall saltwater tank 30"x12"x22"??? It has a stock hood but with after
market lights. I have had success for over a year with this tank and
recently took on a Condylactis giganteus
<Tank too small for this guy.><<No... RMF>>
see photo at the request of my better half.
I have read a fair amount of records of bleaching these creatures and
was wondering if you could tell me if this one is. Also visual health
indicators if any. IT eats food and then releases in a slow display 1-2
days later. I have not had any creatures die from living in my tank only
from lack of knowledge early on.. IE acclimation mishap. I have had two
YTB damsels
<??, please, no abbreviations.> whom cycled with this tank, their
neighbors are 2 Serpent Stars 5-6" each, 2 Turbo Snails, 1"er and a
2"er, 1 Scooter Blenny and 1 Porcelain Crab about 2".
My stars have made more stars Whoopee! about 20 that I have seen they
are all darker in color? protection I assume. Camo?
<Age.>
Oh and four Nassarius Snails
1cm each. also 4 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs.
Oh I have a protein skimmer and a bio wheel also and 2" bed of sand and
crushed coral a rocks from LFS
Tank:
37 gallons
1.023 salinity
pH is light purple I can never distinguish the number.
Nitrates seem ok
<How do you know? Seem OK????>
I have no way to measure every thing with my kit.
<Should buy the specific kit you are missing.>
What do you feel I should work on... Responsibly.. I have a minimal
budget Also is there any merit too strong household lighting of any kind
for my style tank? Or is aquarium lighting the only way to go.
<Brian, you do not mention what kind of lighting you have. Very
important here on keeping anemones. Kelvin temperature and wattage is
what I'd like to know.
Do read here and related articles/FAQ's above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm
Also, in future queries, please cap all proper nouns such as names of
fish and invertebrates.
My time and patience run low when I have to correct/edit queries before
posting.
James (Salty Dog)>
Brian Stark |
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Needs light, reading. RMF.
Re:
Condy Systems/Health 2/21/08
Dear, James (Salty Dog)>
<Brian>
Thanks for the quick reply!
<You're welcome.>
I'm sorry about the grammar errors. I had gotten so excited
after finding your resource for info I jumbled everything
together.
<Tis OK, I just get tired of spending time correcting before
posting, my volunteered time is very limited as I do have a full
time job.>
I'll try this again
From what you replied, I need specific lighting for my Anemone.
I should not classify it until I know for sure what species it
is. See Picture.
<Is definitely a Condylactis>
I have fluorescent bulbs (2 x 20 watt) 1 is a 18,000 K and the
other is an Actinic spectrum bulb. Both of these are T-8 and
made by HAGEN.
<The Kelvin temperature would work but the intensity (wattage)
is much too low for keeping these anemones. A single 150 watt
HQI would do the trick on your tank.>
I have no reflectors for these bulbs. I am now wondering what
could I fit to my 30" x 12" tank?
<A Google search for aquarium lighting will bring gobs of links.
Premium Aquatics for one, has a good selection of lighting
systems including retros.>
I am very handy and could build anything to fit.
<Mmm, consider a retro.>
I do get very little direct sunlight from a two pane window. I
run my light from 8AM until 11PM manually, but I own a timer. I
read that wattage is less important than output.
<Output is the wattage or LUX. The Kelvin rating is the color
temperature.>
I am interested in making this tank work for just about anything
but not anything new for awhile.
Also I apologize for my lack of water information before.
02/20/2008 These are done with a common test kit. See Pics if it
helps.
<No help to me, looks like Kool-Aid suckers. Would need a
reference chart.>
I seem to have a spike in my nitrates. and in the ammonia a
little these are usually 0 so I don't know what is causing this.
<Excessive fish load can be one, as for the nitrates, excess
nutrients.>
I test about every week but I don't chart readings, maybe I
should?
<A good idea.>
Anyways thanks in advance.
<You're welcome.>
pH 8.3ppm
NH3/NH+4 0.25ppm
NO3 20ppm
<I'd try to keep this under 10ppm>
NO-2 0.00ppm
Salinity 1.023 @ 79 degrees
I have no algae that I can see. But there was a Kenya tree that
had gotten cold awhile back it is fine now, but part of it fell
off. Could this be the
culprit?
<Would help, yes.>
Creatures
4 Nassarius Snails
2 Mexican Turbo Snails
4 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs
2 Yellow Tail Blue Damsels
2 Serpent Starfish 6" each
20 Serpent Stars 1" less than 1 year old.
1 Anemone ( Please Indent For me )
1 Scooter Blenny
1 Porcelain Crab
3 Small Kenya tree
37 Gallon Tall 30"x12"x22"
250 GPH Circulation pump
Red Sea Protein Skimmer
Tank Heater
2" sand and crushed coral base
Several Rocks
<Your fish load is not high, a plus.>
I hope this helps you help me.
Again thank you so much
<You're welcome again. Do search our site on nutrient/nitrate
control and reef
lighting. James (Salty Dog)>
Brian. |
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Condy
Disappearance/Health/Systems 2/11/08
Hello Crew,
<Hello Spencer>
I recently added a Purple Condy to my tank. It's been about a month now and just
a few days ago I woke up to find that my clownfish was completely gone. Not a
sign of him in the tank. He was showing no sign of being sick, and was going
about the day with normal behavior. The only conclusion I could come up with was
maybe he was stung and then eaten by the Condy. Now three days after the
disappearance of the clownfish, the Condy seems to have disappeared as well. The
is a little brown silky looking substance in my filter.
<May be the remains of the Condy.>
The tank is 10g with a hood,
<Not good, tank too small for keeping such animals and this anemone also
requires
strong light of the proper Kelvin temperature to survive.>
and was shared with some hermit crabs, a small Blood Shrimp, two Mithrax Crabs,
and the clown which is now gone as well.
<Are you saying all the other inverts are gone as well?>
So I guess my question is, what might have happened to either of them? I did
just recently within the last few days do a 20 percent water change. The water I
put in was a little cooler then the water that was in there but the thermometer
read 75 after, so a very negligible change in temperature.
This morning I did another 15 percent water change just in case the Condy did
actually die, so I could get some of the ammonia out of the tank before I could
test the water. The Condy's normal behavior was to deflate once a day and then
inflate back up, last night it was deflated and then gone today. Thank you so
much, I hope that you guys can help with my enigmatic aquarium.
<I'm thinking it got sucked into the filter and died. On the other hand, it may
have attached itself to the underside of a rock out of view. Would not put
anemones in such a small system in the future, will not live, difficult to keep
alive long term to begin with. James (Salty Dog)>
Spencer Hall
Anemone
Help/Condylactis 10/22/07
I have been searching the archives, and alas don't have all night to
keep looking (wish I did, I love reading here). I wrote to you last week
about an SPS frag which succumbed to RTN. I found the culprit, I'm sure,
which was a AA battery in the sump (ah love 2 year olds, especially one
who has a newfound fascination with putting things where they don't
belong, you know, toys in the toilet, batteries in the tank, pee in the
floor vents, that sort of thing...).
<Heehee>
I did a 12 gallon water change the next morning (all the water I had)
and kept an eye on the rest of the inhabitants. The skimmer is currently
offline because we are treating the tank with Kick Ich.
<Worthless in my opinion, and not safe with inverts. I know people who
have used this product and lost corals during the treatment period.>
We made the mistake of not quarantining a new purchase.
<Yes.>
It had a single white spot on it's fin when we put it in our tank, and 2
weeks later the whole tank was infected and the new acquisition was dead
(a regal tang). The current problem is with our Condy. I have some
pictures of it when we got it, it was quite
small (1.5 inches in diameter or so), very attached to it's rock, which
we ended up buying with it since it wouldn't let go, pinkish tan in
color. It grew a LOT since then, and is about 5 inches in diameter now.
We have been watching it closely for a few days, as it is growing paler
and paler. I took a new picture tonight. It is white now, almost
transparent, but accepted some squid, though a bit sluggishly. It
catches food when the fish are fed generally as well, so I don't target
feed it often, usually when I do it tries to take my fingers with, so
this was a bit of a concern. It is upright, still attached to its rock.
Is there any remedy? Is it dying?
We have had it about 9 months. Tank parameters are as follows: 50 gallon
tank with 29 gallon sump/refugium, one 2 bulb high output T5 fixture
with an actinic blue and 10000k. We have a low output T5 with the same,
but we are waiting for a replacement light as it stopped working.
<The use of Kick Ich didn't help for sure, and the lighting you have
isn't enough for a Condy. The do require intense lighting to survive. Is
best not to have anemones in tanks with corals, especially a Condy which
can/does move quite frequently stinging everything it passes by, and
they do have a potent sting.>
dkH 8.4, Phosphate 0.1, Calcium 360, PH 8.4, Nitrate 20, Nitrite 0,
Ammonia 0. We have about 40-50 lbs of live rock, 2.5 inches of substrate
(Florida crushed coral and live sand). Other inhabitants are a Yellow
tang,
<Too small a tank for the tang.>
2 Yellow Tail Blue Damsels, 2 Percula Clowns, a cleaner shrimp (red and
white, candy cane striped), corals are a Gorgonian, several Xenia
colonies, a Montipora,
<Depending on what type Montipora you have, your lighting may be too low
for this.>
Finger Coral, Acropora, Candy Cane Coral, a Traechyphyllia
<Trachyphyllia> and a Scolymia.
<Also require more lighting that you have.>
We have a large Featherduster worm and a rock with some blue mushrooms
and some Zoa polyps, a few largish polyps with tentacles around the
edges, and lots of 'critters' in the substrate. There is a really cool
pink sponge growing on one of the rocks, good coralline growth, good
polyp extension on the corals. Ah, the only thing I think I left out is
that we are also running a UV sterilizer (not full time, just when we
have reason to worry, like now with the ICH). What is our most likely
problem, and can it be fixed? Our new light was supposed to be here a
week ago, sigh. I am sure that probably plays into the equation. I have
20 gallons of RO water coming to room temp now so I can do a change in
the morning. Anything else I need to do? Attached are 3 pics of the
anemone, the first one is now, the other two were taken in happier days.
<I'd quarantine any fish that appear to be infected with ich and treat
with a copper based medication. Filter your water through activated
carbon, Chemi Pure, or a Poly Filter to remove the Kick Ich. Your light
intensity is going to have to be doubled to maintain some of the corals
you have. Read here please.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i4/quarantine/Quarantine.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm
Hope this helps you. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Anemone
Help/Condylactis 10/23/07
Thank you for your quick reply.
<You're welcome.>
I do apologize for asking the obvious. How do I follow up in reply? I'll
give it a shot..
<??>
Regarding lighting, we are aware that we are a little low for the
corals, but thought we were ok for the anemone,
<Oh no.>
until we had a fixture go down. The more demanding corals are in the top
6 inches of the tank. However, everyone has been doing very well until
the Ich and the battery (insult to injury perhaps). The newest thing in
our system (invert wise) is several months old now, wouldn't we see SOME
sign of a problem prior to now?
<Not necessarily. Light loving inverts do not die the next day simply
because of insufficient light, but they do require photosynthesis to
take place so that in turn, food is provided to them as they do generate
most of the nutrition they require. When this process slowly
degenerates, the animals will eventually die. Now, don't think that if
you feed the anemone daily, it won't have to make any food, not the way
it works, but too detailed to explain here.>
All of the corals are growing, eating, behaving like corals should,
aside from the SPS that died. Would increasing the hours of light help?
Currently, the lights are on about 14-15 hours a day.
<No, you a fine here. I'd probably opt for 12 hours per day with
sufficient lighting.>
We have a regular fluorescent light with the actinic and 10000k bulbs in
it (what we started with) out in the shed, would adding that help?
<Yes in regard to being better than what you have, keeping in mind that
about 175-200 watts is what you should be running in your 50 gallon
tank. Time to read here and linked files above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Regarding the Ich: I did another 12 gallon or so water change today, I
saved some
water aside so I can set up the quarantine/hospital tank. Got the
skimmer running again (it has a carbon chamber as well). It is a Red Sea
brand Prizm Pro skimmer, is this a decent one, I sure hope it is, it's
about the 4th try.
<Yes, a good skimmer for your size tank. I've used one before and
thought it worked quite well, not the best, but decent.>
I will 'attempt' to net all of the fish and place them in there for a
few weeks.
<I would net only the fish that are obviously infected. Not good to
treat fish unnecessarily.>
My question here is that all I have room for is a 10 gallon tank, is
that sufficient space for the fish we have (Yellow Tang, 2 damsels, 2
Percula Clowns)? The tang is not real big (still the biggest in our tank
however), maybe 4 inches from snout to tail.
<No, more problems will arise, get an additional 10 gallon tank, not
expensive. And, as the tang grows, the 50 gallon tank will be too
small.>
I did read through the articles you suggested as well. Is copper safe
for all of the fish we have?
<Yes, dosed and monitored properly. Do read the copper article and
linked files again along with the quarantine link and related files
above.>
Do I need to offer supplemental feeds to the rest of the tank (mainly
the cleaner shrimp), since the fish will not be fed in the main display
for a while (as they will be quarantined/medicated)?
<Yes, a light feeding every other day.>
Lastly, re: the tang/tank size, as I said, not a real big fish, yet, and
we do plan to upgrade to a larger tank as
soon as funds allow. If it outgrows the tank before we can, then I
suppose back to a LFS it goes, perhaps a trade on some other specimens
to fuel our addiction. Ah, and the Condy has moved exactly once, after
we had to dismantle 3/4 of the tank to catch the infected Regal Tang. I
guess it really likes it's corner. BTW, own your book (The Conscientuous
<Conscientious> Marine Aquarist sorry if I spelled it wrong) and love it
:)
<And you, my friend, need to keep reading/learning. James (Salty Dog)> |
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Lighting For A Condy In A Nano Reef
9/17/07
Hi,
<Hello Jane>
i <Ah, another querier with a broken shift key.>
have a nano reef, it is five gallons. I placed a Condy in it about a few days
ago. It has burrowed it's foot in the sand. I think it's doing well as of now
because I'm feeding it and putting in an iodine supplement. It looks healthy, as
I can see. Right now there's about 25 watts of lighting, and the water is
perfect. Is this an okay set up, and if not, what do you suggest. I'm open to
more lighting, is that is necessary. Thanks, and let me know.
<Jane, the five gallon nano is much too small for keeping a Condy. Anemones are
difficult to keep in a large system, let alone in a five gallon. The lighting
itself should be sufficient if the lamp is at least 6000K, but my advice is to
return the Condy, you will be asking for trouble down the road. Any fish/coral
in the nano will be subject to stings from the anemone in such small quarters.
And when the anemone dies, if unnoticed, your nano will become toxic to all
other life present. James (Salty Dog)>
-Jane
<In future queries, please cap beginnings of sentences, proper nouns, etc. Makes
our job easier if we do not have to edit before posting. Thank you.>
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Making Friends With
His Anemone! Anemones lighting and
positioning
8/13/07
My anemone, Medusa, was seemingly doing well and perhaps he still is
but he has recently moved to the top of the tank which is obviously
closer to the lighting but also closer to the water flow from the
Penguin filter.
<When anemones move, they are generally telling us that something is not
right for them in their present position. Typically, this is related to
water flow and/or lighting.>
When he was in the lower position, he looked happy and he was eating.
Should I be concerned that he has moved so close to the top? What do you
think this movement means? Is he not getting enough food? Light?
<As you suspect, this is usually a response to some parameter being not
to the anemone's liking. Observe the anemone's behavior in it's new
position. In particular, pay close attention to the animal's orientation
to the lighting and flow. Is it closing up? Is the animal trying to
orient itself into the flow, or away from it? Is the animal feeding, has
color changed, etc?>
2nd subject: Algae. I recently bought the Nova Extreme fixture and ever
since I have had an awful time with red algae on my rocks. I've tried to
limit the lighting time but that still hasn't solved the problem. Do I
need to increase the water changes?
<Typically, algae blooms are a function of nutrients in conjunction with
lighting. Increased lighting intensity and/or longer photoperiods alone
do not cause such blooms. Be sure take into consideration the entire
picture. Could your source water be high in a nutrient that algae
favors? If so, the increased lighting could result in such a bloom. If
you're using RO/DI water, do check the membranes/prefilters to assure
that they are not saturated. If they are, of course, replacement would
make a big difference. Water changes with properly conditioned water are
never a bad idea, of course, so do keep them up. Frequent, consistent
small (like 10% of system capacity) water changes are never a bad idea.>
Happily, my water parameters are all good. Thanks in advance.
My tank:
Blue Regal Tang
Yellow Tang
Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel
Tricolor Fairy Wrasse
Royal Gramma
Mandarin Dragonet
Scissortail Dartfish
Redfire Shrimp
Green Fluorescent Mushrooms
Sand Sifting Sea Star
Snails: Bumble Bee, Super Tongan Nassarius, Mexican Turbo, Zebra Turbo
Lots of rock, decorative and live
Equipment
55 gallon, 48x12x18
Penguin BioWheel 350
SeaClone 100 Skimmer
Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures w/Lunar Lights (48" - 216 watts) 2 SlimPaq
460nm Actinic and 2-10000°K T-5 HO lamps
18 watt turbo twist UV sterilizer
<If it were me- I'd keep up the water changes, observe the anemone
continuously, and be prepared to take action, if necessary for the
anemone. Do review those water parameters regularly (particularly
phosphate, silicate, and nitrate)...these parameters can give you some
clues about what may be causing the algae bloom. Continued success to
you! Regards, Scott F.> |
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Pink tip anemone... sys., sel. 7/21/07
First off your site and FAQ's are awesome. I have a 14 gallon Nano cube (
recent addition) I also have a 170 gallon FOWLR tank. My wife fell in love with
a pink tip anemone at the LFS and brought it home for the Nano tank.
<... Not a smart process for livestocking...>
Well as most people know this guy likes to move. He will hang out in the same
general area, but move from side to side. I have a Pipe Organ coral and a couple
mushroom colonies in there also. There hasn't been a problem with stinging yet,
but is this a possibility?
<In a word, yes>
If so I want to move the pink tip anemone to the FOWLR tank, but worry my rather
large Puffer will eat it.
<It could>
The FOWLR also has some rather large red hermit crabs that I have been told
might eat it as well.
<Ditto>
The pink tip anemone has been rather peaceful ( though I suspect it ate my
cardinal fish) Any suggestions on what is the best solution. I personally think
the Nano is too small for the pink tip anemone, but my wife swears the LFS said
it would be fine
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Scroll down to the tray on Anemones, re Condylactis... Bob Fenner>
Haitian Anemone, Condylactis lighting questions – 3/9/07
Hi Bob,
<Hi Aaron, Brenda here>
Thanks for all of your help. We all really appreciate it.
<You’re welcome>
I have a quick question about my Haitian Anemone. I bought it from my LFS, and
put it in my 125 reef ready, all water Parameters fine. Last night I manually
turned my lights off and forgot to turn the switch back on so they would
automatically come on. So when I got home today the lights were still off and
the Anemone looked like it ate itself. It was all sucked into itself. I'm sure
you know what I mean. It is slowly coming out. I'm sure it's cause of the
light situation, plus my light is not enough in the first place, about 200
watts.
<Your right, it is not enough lighting to keep an anemone.>
Is it going to be ok?
<No>
Is this a common thing to happen if light is absent for a long period.
<I don’t consider one day a long period of time.>
I've been feeding it pieces of table shrimp, and it loves it. It is the only
invert right now. I'm just using it to practice.
<I don’t believe in using anemones to practice. A better solution is to
research their requirements before you purchase. I suggest returning the
anemone to the LFS until you can provide an adequate environment.>
Thank You
Aaron
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Can I add an anemone? - 2/26/07
Good Morning Gang!
<Good Evening Jeff, Brenda here tonight!>
My FOWLR DT has been up and running for three years without any major issues.
<Great!>
I have an opportunity to add a small Condi and want to know what your opinions
are.
<It won’t stay small for long.>
I have a 55 with a 3.5 to 4.5" DSB and about 65 lbs of LR. Water parameters are
great...0 ammonia...0 nitrites....5ppm or less nitrates....8.2 to 8.4
ph....1.025 SG....refugium in process to assist with BGA. I have a 260 PC light
and a lot of water circulation....Rio 3100 return pump and two power heads in
the tank.
<You will need to cover the power heads with the addition of any
anemone. Salinity needs to be 1.026, nitrates zero.>
I have three damsels, Royal Gramma, Hippo Tang, snails, hermits, serpent star
and a brittle star. I have two false Percs in QT as of last night. How would
the addition of the anemone affect this tank/livestock?
I know the lighting and water flow are covered...I just don't want to jeopardize
my fish.
<Seven fish and an anemone would be pushing it. I recommend waiting until the
new clownfish have been in their new home for a while to see if your tank can
handle it. Anemones need pristine water conditions. A Condylactis will not
host a clownfish. If this was your plan, Entacmaea quadricolor (BTA) would be a
better choice. Even then, there is still no guarantee they will host. Your
tank is a bit small for a tang. I don’t see a protein skimmer listed. I
suggest getting one if you don’t already have one. More information can be
found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm
>
Thanks!!
Jeff
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Condy Anenome injury 9/26/06
Hello!
I've have had a very beautiful Condy for 4+ months now.
He recently got stuck on the intake of my powerhead.
<Need to be covered/screened...>
After turning off the powerhead and waiting, he moved to another part of the
aquarium.
He is now a lot smaller than he originally was, and I am worried that he may not
be able to feed himself properly. He doesn't have as many or as long of
tentacles as he used too. His mouth is now always visible. The injury happened
about 1.5 weeks ago.
I have since covered the intake of the powerhead with a foam sponge.
<Good idea>
Should I be doing something special to feed this guy?
<Perhaps. Worth trying>
He's looking pretty good considering what he has gone through, but I'm worried
that he might be starving.
Thanks in advance!
RK
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm
and the linked files above. BobF>
Re: Condy Anenome injury 9/27/06
Bob:
Thanks so much for your input.
My concern with this Anenome is how to feed him.
Since so many of his tentacles are missing, he doesn't seem to be able to move
any food that he catches to his mouth. Should I try to insert food directly
into his mouth??
RK
<Can, I would. BobF>
Anemone Health/Who turned the lights off? 3/17/06
I have a 45 gallon mature tank, 110 watt light, one side blue actinic, one
side kelvin white light. We have a bio-wheel filter and a red sea protein
skimmer. I recently added a pink Haitian anemone. It looks very bad. We have
had it nearly a week and have yet to see it eat. It shrivels up at night and
looks very shriveled and brown the next morning. It has been filling out after
a little while under the light, but today it must have been two hours or more
before filling out and it still did not look great. It has suctioned to the
side of the glass, about middle ways down. Water tests okay, except nitrates
are at 40. First question, what do we do to help the anemone? <Your tank and
lighting are both undersized for keeping such. Difficult to keep for any length
of time under ideal conditions. Do google our site, keyword, anemones.> Second
question- We also are having a problem with brown algae growth. What causes it
and what can we do? <Do google our site. Much information present on algae
control.> Will it hurt the fish? <No.> Finally- Is there a way that we can
promote green algae growth? <Pretty tough to want to control one type of algae
and promote growth of another. We try to avoid algae, why would you want to
encourage it? I'm sure there is enough algae present already to keep the urchin
going, crabs do not require it to survive.> We have crabs and urchins that
probably would appreciate it. We have been using the chatroom, but we would
like your direction. Help!!!
Thanks so much- <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Condylactis Lighting/Feeding - 02/22/06
I've read many of your lighting/feeding articles and am having a little
trouble determining if my lighting/feeding is adequate for my giant Condy.
<<Mmm, ok...let's see if I can help.>>
I have a 46 gal tank that's about 16 to 17" in depth. The Condy is situated in
a crevice of rock at the bottom of the tank. I have a light from a previous
tank that overhangs this tank a bit (it's a 4' light on a 3'tank). Since I
already invested in the light for a tank that cracked I really wanted to see if
I could continue to use it.
<<I see>>
Here are the specifications of the light:
Orbit 4 X 65 watt PC fixture.
It contains SunPaq Dual Daylight (10,000K & 6,700K), Dual Actinic (460nm &
420nm) and a Lunar Light 2-65w Dual Daylight & 2-65w Dual Actinic lamps
<<Ok, got it...I think. This is probably "enough" light on this tank for the
Condy, though it would appreciate/benefit from replacing one of the actinic
bulbs with another daylight bulb.>>
I run the Daylight lights from 8:00am to 5:00pm and the Actinic lights from
7:00am to 6:00pm. I also have some Xenia in the tank that is growing nicely and
spreading. Other members include a large clown who came along with the Condy, a
goby, a cleaner shrimp, a hermit crab, and a reef lobster.
<<I'd keep an eye on the lobster...will likely dine on its tankmates sooner or
later.>>
All get along nicely.
<<For now>>
I feed small amounts twice a day. The clown rounds up as much shrimp and
formula 1 as it can and eagerly stuffs the food into the Condy. Should I be
feeding the Condy in addition to this? If so, what?
<<If the pieces are small enough...and you can truly ascertain the anemone is
ingesting the food (and keeping it in!), then fine, let the clown feed the
anemone. But much of the time, what the fish gives the anemone is not really
accepted even though it seems the anemone eats. These animals really prefer
food items much smaller than most people realize. Do try target feeding
"diced/minced" meaty foods (not brine shrimp!) and see how the anemone responds.
The Condy and clown are new to the tank and look great!
Thanks for your help - you folks are great!
Frank
<<Welcome Frank. Regards, EricR>>
Condylactis anemone in new hands 9/9/04
I got a Condy anemone that came with some LR and I have no idea really
what they eat, how to feed them or how to know when to feed them I have been
doing tons of research but cant find what I need
<look harder my friend... the information is sitting there in the archives and
beyond. Use the Google search tool on the home page (wetwebmedia.com) with key
word/phrase searches for things like "anemones feeding", "Condylactis", etc>
I wasn't planning on an anemone for a few months at least also its kinda turning
a little brown and I'm wondering if its my lights I only have 2 18 watt lights
which I know is way to low
<this is very low light indeed... concerning. And the anemone is turning brown
from the waning of UV reflective pigments and or the increase in zooxanthellae
trying to catch the weakly available light>
is there even a chance of it making it with those lights
<not likely my friend>
cause I'm only 15 and cant really get the money all that quickly to buy new
lights but any info will do it seems to be doing somewhat good but I really
don't know any help is good
<understood... do try to keep this anemone in the top 10" of water for maximum
light exposure... and feed it finely minced meaty foods (krill, mysids,
plankton, etc) a few times weekly>
Thanks Andrew
<best regards, Anthony>
Condylactis anemone
<Hi Jerry!>
Thanks, he just moved under the rock. Today he was at the highest point of the
rock, I think he likes it in my tank I'm gonna feed him today. I feed him every
other day frozen silversides (man those stink). I wish they came live. Is silver
sides natural Condy prey? Thanks JM
<In the wild they would likely take whatever small prey they could sting and
catch. Don't forget to feed a variety of raw marine meats. Good to include
shrimp, clam, mussel, etc. Small bits, no bigger than 1/4". Anemone does
not live by silversides alone!. Craig>
Condylactis anemone
<Hi Jerry>
Ok, 2 hours after I wrote this email he moved for the first time out of his
spot. He moved under a rock. Weird, he can't get any light under there. I think
I may have too much light. The tank is longer than it is deep, it's 13 inches
deep. I don't know, what do you think?
<Not to worry, these anemones are known for moving around aquariums quite a
bit. That's part of the deal.
You can read about your anemone at WetWebMedia.com. Type "Condylactis
Anemone" in the google search engine.
They do stuff like this, let him work it out. Craig>
Re: HELP! new anemone owner!
thanks! <<You are welcome.>> I have good lighting and
circulation, in fact I had to move it so it wouldn't be blown around by the
whisper filter too much. its kind of small maybe 3 inches across or less. would
it be okay to feed it a piece of a shrimp like once a week to supplement the
pellets? <<You could - I don't know enough about these pellets, and more
often than not I prefer to use food I can identify - fish, squid, clam,
etc.>> and one more thing, would it be okay to have a FEW soft corals in
my tank? <<Again, it depends on your lighting. You didn't really reveal
anything about it, just that it is 'good' - what type of bulbs, what output
wattage? These are important to giving you a good answer.>> not right away
but slowly add them? <<No matter what you add, you should add
slowly.>> maybe a max number of 5 different easy species? <<depends
on the light.>> and some mushrooms and polyps of course? <<don't see
why not.>> or would the anemone sting them? <<only if placed right
next to each other.>> I have plenty of space to go around so it seems like
it should be fine. what about "chemical ware fare"? <<depends on
the corals you select.>> sorry for all the questions but this is my first
marine tank. <<Many of these questions have been asked and answered and
are posted within WetWebMedia. You should avail yourself to this
resource.>> Thanks for all the help.
Clint
<<Cheers, J -- >>
Re: HELP! new anemone owner!
<<Hello again, Clint...>>
my lighting is 2 Coralife 20K high intensity purified super daylight lamps (that
sounds kind of like of just boosting the selling power of these bulbs by using
the words "super and purified" but that all came from the box.
<<Sounds like standard manufacturer babble.>> it also says that fish
coral and macroalgae thrive in its glow. bright high intensity output and the
technical info says 360 degree output (please explain this I have no idea what
that means) 15 watt fluorescent. <<Sounds like more box babble to
me.>> 15 watts doesn't seem like very much to me but the box said coral
likes it and the pet store owner assured me it was fine. <<Yeah, 15 watts
is a little low, and even with the two together 30w is really not enough for
your anemone or soft corals that you wish to place.>> please help! the
corals I was thinking about were maybe a leather coral, bubble coral, and a
xenia. Thanks a lot for all the help your advice is very useful o me.
<<You have other options when it comes to lighting, and without something
more intense, or many more of the 15w bulbs, you'll be quite challenged to get
those corals to thrive. Check out these URLs:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/fixtures.htm >>
Clint
<<Cheers, J -- >>
Condy anemone
<Anthony Calfo, in your service>
What are the lighting requirements for a Condy anemone?
<depends on where it was collected, but can be categorized as moderate to
high light>
I bought one yesterday and currently have a 50 watt bulb on my 125....
<indeed... it would shrivel and die within months>
BUT, I have 4 Coralife ballasts to put on my tank if that will help it.
<if they are standard fluorescent bulbs (40watt?) it will still be too weak
for the depth of a 125 gallon tank. Such lights do not penetrate deep enough.
The necessary lights to keep this anemone will cost 100X the price of the
anemone...hehe. Do need to research before you buy animals, my friend>
He found a spot near a rock not long after I introduced him into the tank. Would
the Custom Sea Life PC's work, too?
<now we are talking, goombah!>
I also bought some live phytoplankton for him to eat as well........
<fine zooplankton as much or more please>
Any info would be great, as I am having a hard time finding info on this
anemone.
<not the hardiest in captivity but popular because they are inexpensive. Best
regards, Anthony>
Thanks,
Kim
Re: Condy anemone
Thank you for the info , goombah! :)
<hehe...>
As for lighting goes, would VHO be even better?
<not necessarily better than PC, But very good. I like them a lot>
or what about a MH Pendant (the round ones)?
<excellent but more complicated and intense than you may need if you do not
end up with a full blow reef. My vote is for PC or VHO and keep the anemone as
high as it will allow you.>
the goombah!
<Ha! The silverbacks...aging Italian gentlemen...ewwwwh!>
Re: Anemones, local and not
Hi, Bob. Thank You for Your quick reply. One more question. Is the anemone
'Entacmaea quadricolor' a good anemone for my tank which has only 2 x 20 W
fluorescent bulbs. One is a 50/50 type. Or are there other, better anemones
that don't require too much light?
<You could use such low intensity lighting with a Bubble Tip Anemone... but I
wouldn't... won't be as happy, healthy as if you had two, three or more
intensity lighting... I encourage you instead to look into the "local"
anemones: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/twaanemones.htm
Perhaps just the easy to keep "Condys". Bob Fenner>
Thanks, Bernd
Re: Anemones, local and not
Hi Bob and thanks again. I checked your website about Condylactis anemones.
Can 'passiflora' and gigantea adjust to low light? I might be able to
collect those myself. Thanks, Bernd
<Yes indeed my friend. Bob Fenner>
Condylactis
Bob,
I'm happy to have found you again through WetWebMedia, you have really
helped me with your information. In the past, I have sought your advise
through FFExpress but as of late it seems they are utilizing multiple
sources to address inquiries.
<I understand>
I prefer to use one source and stick to
their advice, namely you.
<Again, I understand, well, I think so!>
My questions are regarding Condylactis; I purchased two of them a couple of
days ago. Upon acclimating them to my 75 gallon tank they immediately
attached to my live rock and even repositioned themselves over the next
couple of hours. They looked good, the tentacles were turgid and from their
movement I can see they had enough water circulating around them. Then
yesterday one of them moved to a location, which can best be described as
"cave like" still attached to the live rock and it's tentacles were not as turgid but were still searching about it's
surroundings. The other remained in the same location and was fully open.
I was curious, so I feed both of them freeze dried plankton, which they both
eagerly ate. Should I be concerned about the Condy in the cave?
<Nah. Natural, expected behavior... not much to do anywise...>
I have 220
watts of pc lighting (110 actinic, 110 full spectrum), which is short of the
recommend wattage by about 1 watt per gallon. All water parameters are
excellent, except for phosphates which are high and I have discussed with you in the past. Additional questions:
Will the members of my clean up crew, blue crabs, snails, etc harm the
Condys?
<Likely not>
Do Condylactis come in different colors as my LFS explained?
<Yep, and a few species>
Of the two I purchased one has a white base with white medium to long tentacles
and purple tips. The other has an orange to peach colored base with
brownish tentacles. Thanks in advance for your help.
Nick
>>
<Be chatting my friend, Bob Fenner>
Question on anemone
<<Hi Jerry>>
Will Condylactis get along with other Condys? also if you have to 50 watts on a
30 gallon would that equal 100 watts which is 3.3 watts per gallon is that
acceptable for this species? also do they have algae in there tissue? like a
plant thanks JM
<<I wouldn't get another one if that's where you're going! You don't have
the first one saved yet! One thing here Jerry. I want you to think about this. I
know that stores sell these for cheap, but they are not really the best for
beginners, AAMOF, they don't tend to live very long in captivity. Now for the
kicker. They live **FOREVER** in the wild. They are essentially immortal in the
wild and usually live less than a year in captivity. You have to do your best to
make right by something that would live forever if it wasn't in the store and
then your tank. Now to the light. This is important as I've been trying to get
you to understand. It's like this. You know how bright the sun is? Well even if
you were able to gather all of the 50 watt bulbs in the world together over your
tank, it would never come close to the sun. It's the same for the 50 watt lights
you want. It will still only be 50 watts INTENSITY no matter how many you use.
You need BIGGER, MORE INTENSE lighting than regular aquarium lighting, like
Metal Halide, Very High Output Florescent, or Power Compact fixtures. Please go
to this link and read about lighting: There are some good posts about not
getting two anemones as well. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm
Craig>>
Re: question on Condy anemone
<<Hi Jerry>>
Hi thank you I will put another 20 watt on the tank and he should do well I
think will they die if he gets 2 watts per gallon? I've had him for 4 days and
he looks good and he eats flakes I give him and he isn't sick will he sting if I
go to move him higher up on the rock?
Thanks JM
<<Okay, Jerry, you didn't read the link below, did you? Jerry, we want to
help you keep your anemone alive. Will you please read the link so you can get
the help you need? As I wrote you yesterday, this anemone needs *high intensity
lighting* not more wattage of *LOW intensity* lighting. That means Metal Halide,
VHO, or Compact Florescent lighting at 3-5 watts per gallon for an average
18-20" deep tank. The flake food is fine on occasion but will not sustain
this anemone for long. He eats anything because there isn't enough light. I
would not suggest you move the anemone or try to handle it, this will do more
harm to an already stressed animal. He needs more light, better food, and to be
left to find his own place when those conditions are met. If you were to move
him, first, you could injure him and second, he would move back to the highest
point in the tank/light anyway. PLEASE read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and
follow the links from there.>>
<<Good luck, Craig>>
Re: question on Condy anemone
thank you I am buying a 50/50 55watt hood and a 40 watt sunlight hood to put
on the tank will this sustain his need? I read the link and it is very helpful
with the 50 and 40 I should have enough wattage I wish the pet store lady would
have told me this will he live one more week till I get the hood updated? Thanks
JM
<<Hey Jerry>>
<<Sounds better. You might try AHlighting supply, Champion lighting
supply, or Marine Depot for affordable lighting.
90 watts will be the minimum and your Condy will still want to be close to the
top of the tank, so you may want to build the rock up higher in an isolated area
directly under the strongest light and give him the option of getting up close.
If you can afford more light, like two 65 pc's, one for each side or two long
fixtures, the higher light intensity and reflector would be appreciated by the
anemone.
The only other thing is to stop off at the store and buy some seafood for your
dinner and then share with your anemone. I hope this works out for you. Try to
get the lights ASAP and feed marine meats in the meantime. One thing this will
do is prepare you for other light demanding inhabitants later on. Have
FUN!>>
<<Cheers, Craig>>
Condylactis anemone
hi me again this is a picture of his disk and tentacles does he look ok his
tentacle are open and bright his mouth is shut and he always eats good
<<Yep, looks good to me. Glad to see his disc is more brown than white,
this is good. Keep him fed and well lit.
Good luck! Craig>>
Condylactis anemone
<<Hi Jerry!>>
Hi I got it through and bought a 70 watt ballast and have a 70 watt daylight and
a 30 watt actinic blue t12 I think hell like it better than the 30 watt I had on
when I got him do they reproduce in captivity? like split into more anemones? or
do you need another one two mate? thanks for all your great information
<<Glad you got more light. The more the better (up to a point!).
I haven't heard of Condy's splitting like the other varieties or of them being
bred in captivity. Just get him in the proper conditions to survive for an
extended period. Most people, including public aquariums, have dismal successes
over one year with these anemones. It has been done but they are difficult to
put it bluntly. Give it your best shot! Craig>>
Question on anemone (Condy care)
<<Hi Jerry!>>
hi I'm gonna take your advice on my Condy anemone I'm buying 70 watt daylight and
a 30 watt actinic blue I hear anemones love actinic blue heel appreciate this
and I was wondering could I feed him guppies the lady at the pet store feed the
saltwater fish them so I figured he'd like them will he last 4 more days till I
get my new light setup? I plan to buy him silver side the day I get the brighter
hood thanks on your great advice JM
<<This sounds better. The more light up to 5 watts per gallon, the
better!!! Bubble tips like more blue, your Condy would just love lots of light!
I wouldn't feed guppies. Stop at the store on the way home from work and go to
the seafood section. Buy some small shrimp (uncooked, not pink), prawns,
scallops, etc. Just cut it into 1/4" or smaller pieces and feed it to him
(on a piece of clear stiff air tube). You don't need special fish food! He will
need to eat two more times before you get the lights. Hope this works for you,
Craig>>
Condylactis anemone
<Hi Jerry>
I think I feed him too much, I feed him half an inch, he still gobbles it
down.
<Don't overdo it.>
I notice when he's about to move his foot bloats up looks like its gonna
explode and it shrinks gets bigger than shrinks gets bigger than shrinks is
this how they move? thanks JM
<Yep, Have fun. Craig>
Re: Condylactis anemone
He died today very bad news. At least he was still whole. I knew when I saw
him today he was bloated 3 times his size and looked like he was gonna explode
my nitrates are still low. Thought I'll try again. I wonder what made him die
after 3 weeks of having him? I have good water good light good food huh? What
anemone do you recommend that is easy to take care of and lives long? Thanks
very disappointing.
<I'm sorry to hear your anemone died Jerry. Your tank is very new and even
though you say the nitrates are still low, you want perfectly pristine water for
anemones and a well established tank. I would run with what you have for at
least a year while you let things settle in a bit. I know this sounds like a
long time, but as you can see, anemones like things really stable and your tank
is too young to be really stable yet. When your tank is ready I recommend you
shop around for a Bubble Tip Clone (Entacmaea quadricolor) perhaps the hardiest
anemone in captivity. My condolences on your Condy. This is a common problem,
don't feel alone. Craig>
My Boyfriend Bought Me...Condy!
Hi
<Hi there! Scott F. with you tonight!>
I need some help!!!! I recently bought a Haitian pink tip
anemone, and I need some information. I purchased some
frozen food for it today, recommended by a local pet store. When I
feed it do I need to cut it up or leave it in cubes??
<Definitely cut up the food into smaller pieces, and don't overfeed. You can
squirt some of the food into the anemones tentacles with a turkey baster (very
appropriate this time of year!).
How do I care for it?? When I bought it I didn't ask
too many questions, cause I thought that my boyfriend knew what to do with
it!
Please Help
Thanks Christie
<Well, Christie, first thing that you need to do is slap that guy! You now
know never to buy any animal, especially an anemone, before you study up on it!
Enough lecture...Fortunately, these are the among the hardiest of anemones.
However, they still require bright light, vigorous current, and clean, stable
water conditions in order to thrive. They can get quite large and very colorful
with proper care. They generally will not host Clownfishes, being a Caribbean
species, however, larger Clownfishes, such as Tomato clowns, do sometimes take
up residence in them. These anemones can and will move around in the tank until
they find a spot that's just to their liking, so make sure that all filter
intakes, powerheads, etc., are configured so that the anemone is not
accidentally drawn in and injured or killed should it wander around. With
attention to the environment, and proper care, these anemones can live for many,
many years. Do a search on this species using the Google search feature on the
wetwebmedia.com site for more information. Good luck! Scott F.>
- Condylactis Lighting -
Hi guys. <Hello, JasonC here...> The LFS (usually pretty trustworthy)
told me that Condys don't need intense lighting. <I'm not sure I agree with
that at all. The Condylactis are as photosynthetic as any other anemone. They
keep theirs in one of those shelf systems on the bottom shelf....it's almost
dark in there!! <Well, they have the advantage that they can replace that
anemone when it craps out, giving the illusion that it's lived there for a long
time. I would be willing to bet that they kill one a couple of times a year.>
Also, they told me that you can only count on Maroon Clowns to pair up with
them. <I doubt that... Condylactis anemones hail from the tropical Atlantic
and Maroon Clowns are Pacific in origin, although Condylactis anemones do show
up in the Pacific.> I thought that ALL anemones required tons of experience
and tons of light... what's the deal with my LFS? <Who knows... do read up on
the Condylactis here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/twaanemones.htm
>
Matt
<Cheers, J -- >
Condylactis Anemone Lighting Requirements
<Hello again>
I am sorry Ryan for being so short. I just did not want to make a long one out
of it. I do have about 85-90lbs of live rock but no sand bed I just have some
crushed coral and the live rock. <Good to hear> Thx for the link and I am
sure I will find the info on what the sand bed does. <Yes, it should
help. Also good to have if you ever want to dabble in corals.> But
just incase I am a bigger idiot then I thought Please let me know on the sand
deal. <I'll give you the benefit of the doubt! You're just
providing refuge for beneficial life in your tank that ordinarily would perish
without the safety of a sand bed.>
Thx sooooooooooooo much for the help and all the others there as well
<Absolutely.>
PS I don't remember if I mentioned my tank is 24" deep. Is my
lighting still good ? I know these Condys like to move.
<Yes, they'll move to where they life it. Your lighting should be
just fine, just research the photoperiod and stick to it. Ryan>
Michael
Condylactis Anemone Lighting Requirements
<Hi! Ryan with you>
Hi my name is Michael and I have a 92G Oceanic corner tank and have been
studying about Condys. I think I want one but I want to make sure about the
lighting I have. In the very back of the tank I have 2- 28W Actinic PC's,
in front of that I have a 175W MH 5500K, and in front of that I have 1-96W 10K
PC, and in front of that 1-96W actinic PC. Is this enough lighting for a
anemone "Condy"? I LOVE YOU GUYS! Thanks for being
here. Michael
<Michael, it sounds like you're on your way to providing a good home for
anemones. You'll have about 4-5 watts per gallon with your current
lighting- sounds appropriate. I can't stress enough that you need
high water quality. You didn't mention live rock/sand. I
wouldn't even try an anemone of any sort without a deep sand bed and 1-2 pounds
of live rock per gallon. These links should prove helpful in your
research:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condylactis.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/twaanemones.htm
Best of luck! Ryan>
Lighting for a Condy (10-3-03)
Hey guys,<Howdy, Cody here today.>
I have another question.. I was interested in purchasing a Condy anemone... I am
not sure what its full name is but I wanted to know do these guys need strong
lighting.. I have a 60 gal tank.. its 14.5" tall.. currently I have
120watts of light (2 50/50, and 1 marine Glo) is this enough... and if not how
much more should I get.. seeing that at the moment its 2 watt per
gallon..<They are not as demanding as some of the other anemones but they
still require higher lighting than what you have now. There are too
many different lighting choices to give you a general rule but do some research
on the Wet Web site and you should be able to find everything you
need. Cody>
Condy Candy
>I want to thank you for an invaluable resource first of all!
>>You're welcome.
>Secondly, I have a few questions about a Candy (floridia (sp) I believe)
anemone.
>>That would be a Condylactis anemone.
>I recently got one free with my live rock/sand order. After
reading up on it I understand that these are inexpensive and common anemones
which also do not have that high rate of success.
>>Well, anemones in general have a poor success rate, however, Condys
and BTA's (bubble tips) have a better than average rate of success - BTAs more
so with advanced reefers.
>When I first put him in the tank (50 gallon with 2x 250w MH and 2x 96w PC)
he was small, but opened up after 1 day, and I kept the MH off for the first few
days. I had placed him in a position just next to a small piece of
rock in the middle of the tank where there is very high water flow that changes
direction due to crossing currents, and he hasn’t moved since I
put him there. I am assuming he likes his placement?
>>It would move if it didn't. Don't be surprised if it does
move. Keep those powerhead and other intakes well-protected!
>I have been feeding him almost daily about a ¼ to ½ inch piece of squid in
addition to any small Mysid or blood worms that get stuck on his
tentacles.
>>I would not feed bloodworms to any of your animals on a regular
basis. They're great for getting certain picky eaters going on feed,
but once eating, stick with marine-based foods.
>I now know that 1/4 is the optimal size and not to go over that.
>>1/4 what?
>He started out completely white with only small purple dots on the tips of
his tentacles; however, I have been noticing the beginning of a color change in
him and definitely a brown/green hue to him on one side. Is that the
color I can expect and I gather this is his new crop of zooxanthellae?
>>More than likely, it's probably brighter/more intense in your system
than from whence he came.
>There were 2 days that when I would come home, he would be completely
withdrawn, but my fiancé said he had just gone to that state and had been out
all day. I looked closer and my pistol shrimp had made an entrance to
his burrow under that rock. That hole is now
closed up and the Condy doesn’t stay out and about all day and night.
>>Not unusual, but could be a sign of a problem. Watch for
disintegration. If that happens, you know he's a goner and MUST
remove it immediately.
>Any words of advice?
>>Those were them up there.
>I am kind of disappointed that my tomatoes wont host in him (they are very
small still) and was planning on getting a BTA, however, now that I have this
Condy, I don’t want to encourage
chemical warfare.
>>I think you have some things mixed up here, my friend. You
know that the Condy is an Atlantic species. This means that all
clowns, Pacific specifically, never host such an animal in
nature. It's not unheard of for them to host these and other things
(Goniopora, hammer corals, frogspawn, powerheads, lift tubes, overflows, et al),
but don't keep the cake waiting on it. If you're new, I would strongly recommend
waiting at LEAST a year before attempting something like a BTA. Get
more experience under your belt, anemones and sea stars are among the most
difficult of inverts to keep.
>Such a gorgeous creature, I hope I can keep him alive and well.
>>We do too. Keep that water in pristine parameters (near sea
water quality), and you should be on your way. Feeding him is good,
but do change out the bloodworms for something else.
>Thanks again, -Darien Ford
>>You're welcome, mate. Have fun with the Condy, and try not to
worry too much (but be diligent). Marina
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