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Possible Dyed Anemone 9-12-09 Re: Dyed anemone update 09/14/09
H. malu changing colors, possibly dyed. - 4/28/07 Hello! <Hi Nicole, Brenda here> I purchased a H. malu anemone about 3 weeks ago and I'm still trying to figure out whether it is healthy or not. I believe it is, but upon doing research, I've come across somewhat conflicting info. I hope you can help me sort this out. <I will try.> Color: My anemone currently has a pinky-peach column with magenta splotches and a yellowish tinge toward the top. It also has magenta stripes radiating from its mouth and magenta rings around its pinky-peach tentacles. That sounds OK, however, the very tip of its tentacles are white and there are about 5 inner tentacles with the bottom half stark white and the top half pinky-peach. Also, some of the outer tentacles have a yellowish tinge to them. Does this sound normal or is it recovering from a bleaching? <I would really need to see a picture. The different color is making me believe you may have a dyed anemone. There is more information on dyed anemones here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dyedanemfaqs.htm > Waste or Zooxanthellae: I've come across info regarding the gunk that anemones expel. I've seen the nasty, crusty looking white stuff coming from its mouth as well as a transparent sack. I also noticed a couple days ago long dark brown stringy stuff coming from its mouth. Again, I've read that the brown stuff is waste but I've also read that it is the anemone losing its zooxanthellae. Which is it? <I have seen anemones expel waste that is white, black and brown. If your anemone is loosing color and turning white, it is loosing its zooxanthellae.> Feeding: Because I was concerned by its coloration (white and yellow areas) and felt it was a recovering bleached anemone, I read that it is important to feed it every 2-3 days until it is healthy again. (I've been feeding it silversides and scallops. Sometimes I soak the food in Zoe). I also read that healthy anemones can be fed from 2-3 times per week to once a month. What is the appropriate feeding frequency for a healthy H. Malu. (BTW, mine is still small with a column about 1.5 - 2 inches in diameter. <I recommend feeding 2 to 3 times per week.> Is it correct to determine its size by the diameter of its column or the spread of its tentacles? <I have always measured by the spread of the tentacles. However, I am not sure that is correct.> Will an anemone always take food that's offered or will it refuse if it is not hungry? <A healthy anemone should always grab onto the food. However it may not eat it if it is not hungry. It may also eat it and regurgitate it later.> Location: When I first put the anemone in my tank, it buried its column into the sand and then it realized it wasn't happy and walked for a second and tipped over and leaned on a rock. <That doesn't sound good.> During a water change, the current floated it toward a cave and it eventually placed itself between the rocks and that's where it has been for about 2 weeks, though its column is not buried in the substrate. I was happy because I read that an unhappy anemone wanders around the tank and a happy one stays put. <Some anemones are just too sick to wander.> But then I read that happy and healthy anemones like to be in the light and are on rocks or buried in the substrate in the current to catch food. And unhappy/ unhealthy anemones put themselves between rocks and hide from the light. Well, which one is it? Is my guy happy but shy or sick and sensitive to light? <It sounds like you have a sick anemone.> Last question(s): It turned green! Recently I noticed that its tentacles were turning green, were shriveled up and its column scrunched down. <It is not uncommon for an anemone to become darker in color when it shrivels up. This is typically when the anemone is expelling waste.> I changed the water thinking it was giving me a clear sign that the water was getting too dirty and it did open up a little bit immediately after the water change. But after a little while it shriveled up again, still green. The only thing I could think to do was to turn off the power head assuming it was the current irritating it. Well, sure enough, it opened up again after I turned off the power head. Its tentacles retained the greenish color for a little while and then went back to being pinky-peach. <I have not heard of this. I don't recommend the use of power heads with anemones. Many anemones have lost their lives to them.> The thing is, I hadn't changed the position or strength of the current so why did it suddenly begin to bother the anemone? And why/how on earth did it turn green? <I don't know. I would love to see pictures of this.> I look forward to your responses and suggestions. BTW, great website! <Thank you!> Nicole <Brenda> Blue Anemone... Is It Real? - 10/02/06 Dyed Anem., Cpt. FAQs f's Crew- <<CJ>> Just to double check, can blue-colored carpets be 'healthy', or are these always bleached/injected/doomed? <<There are "blue" carpet anemones in the wild>> For example, do the specimens offered for sale @ http://www.gofishdirect.com/commerce.cgi?cart_id=1156027517.18607&product=Anemone&pid=1431&log_pid=yes appear to your eye to be specimens that conscientious hobbyists should avoid? <<Possibly, but more due to the fact these anemones "may" have been rough-handled, they ship poorly, and can be difficult to acclimate to captive systems...but not because it is blue>> Some research published on your site and by others in print have led me to be wary of such vivid specimens, knowing that organisms that host zooxanthellae favor browns, creams, oranges, greens.... such an intense blue makes me think twice. <<Indeed... As stated, there "are" blue anemones (Bob posted a picture of a wild specimen in Sulawesi not long ago), and it is my experience and belief that most pictures of "vividly" colored corals posted for sale are...shall we say...less than accurate representations. I'm not saying these particular anemones haven't been dye injected...there's always that chance. Your best bet is to research the vendor as best you can (query the message boards) to try to determine if they are known for passing dyed or otherwise tainted livestock>> Your thoughts on purchasing afore referenced specimen? <<Hmm…how many blue anemones have you seen thriving in hobbyist's tanks?>> As always, I appreciate your opinion, time. Cj <<As always, is a pleasure to share. EricR>> New sebae... anemone... along with two others, one dyed, in a tank filtered by a canister... 7/7/05 Hello, I have a few questions about an anemone that I rushed into buying and will probably regret. <You do already> first off... I have a 75 gallon tank with 265watt pc 50/50, a Fluval 404, a remora pro skimmer , 75 lbs live sand, 100lbs live rock. <You need more filtration> all of my levels are at 0, calcium-400, ph a little low at 8.0 right now... the tank has been established for 7 months and has been stocked with many crabs, snails, and shrimp. Fish include a flame Hawkfish, 2 fairy wrasses, 2 Perculas, and a flame clownfish. as far as corals, I have a Candycane coral, frogspawn, green star polyps, many leathers, xenia, and tons of Zoanthids.-Q1- (( I also have a green BTA that is growing huge and is already about a foot across, he is being used as a host by the fire clown. a small question with him is, he is pretty much brown and ugly... he has really dark color and sometimes has green or purple hues but how do I get some real color out of him? <Time, feeding> I feed all of my anemones formula 1 frozen food, phyto with invertebrate smorgasbord, and krill)) -Q2- ((next I have a small rose BTA that is about the size of a golf ball, I have had him for about 4 months, and he is about six inches from the top, but he has been bleached since the day I got him. it is white with hot pink color <Dyed> in the tentacles and it hasn't gotten any color or size in the last 4 months since I got him. it eats a lot and seems healthy otherwise and it even split about a week ago..... any advise)) -Q3-(( yesterday, I saw an awesome anemone at the pet store and I bought it. <... three anemones in a seventy five... trouble> it has a slightly green base, and the tentacles are a deep pink with purple tips, I was told it is a sebae after I bought it I found out about its aggressive nature and high light requirements. I placed it at the top of the rockwork and learned that they like their base in the sand... it hasn't moved yet and looks ok and is opened pretty good. will this anemone work in my system? why or why not? is it going to have problems with my BTA? thanks for any help you could give me. <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemcompfaqs.htm and the linked files above, look into better filtration... stop buying livestock till you know what you're doing. Bob Fenner> Dyed long tentacle 6/31/05 I was just at my LFS and I saw a long tentacle anemone that was a deep purple. Do you think there is a high possibility of it being dyed? the worker at the LFS said he wanted it......I was about to say you're selling a dyed anemone for a higher price than the healthy ones! how dumb are you?... I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks a lot- Aaron <Could be dyed... but there are LTAs that are this color naturally. Bob Fenner> Anemone Conundrum, lack of knowledge Hi Gang, <Hello> First, let me describe my setup. I've got a 125G SPS tank with about 9 watts per gallon of 20K MH and actinic PCs. I am collecting the rarest frags I can get, making it somewhat of a collector's tank. <Okay> The reason for the email is that a lady has stolen my heart, and she is a beautiful bright yellow sebae anemone. <Mmm, she's a phony... a dyed animal> They call her the 'flaming sun' sebae. I have heard conflicting reports of anemones stinging SPS corals, and LPS for that matter. On the other hand, I've seen lots of successful reefs with a mixture of SPS, LPS, and an anemone or two. Thoughts on adding a sebae in particular, or is their a better choice? Thanks, Brandon Wilson <Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm and the other archived materials on Heteractis crispa/Sebae anemones... And don't perpetuate the practice by endorsing it (buying such doomed animals). Bob Fenner> HELP!! Yellow <Dyed> Sebae Anemone James, Okay, I understand the feeding issue. But I was wondering if there IS a such thing as a yellow sebae? <I've heard of them> Like I said his foot is yellow too. <<No... this is a dyed specimen... RMF>> I put him in a 3 gallon bowl with bubbler, live rock (which he attached to right away) and sand. <He will not be with you very long in a three gallon bowl. They need much larger quarters and plenty of moving water and intense lighting to survive.> I put him in the sun in my daughters room and when we got home last night he looked a lot happier. This morning her room was chilly and the water was 76, so we currently have him back in the sun on the patio with a thermometer to watch the temp. I noticed a clear slime that is coming out of his pursed little mouth (not gaping like yesterday) I have a gallon of fresh salt water to swap out when he is done "sliming". What is that? <Please do a google search on the Wet Web, keyword "sebae anemones". You should know what their requirements are.> Also, in an unrelated question, what else do spotted snake eels eat besides ghost shrimp? He will eat out of my hand, but does not like Mysis or brine soaked in Zo? <Read here. http://search.hp.netscape.com/hp/boomframe.jsp?query=Spotted+Snake+eel&page=1&offset=1&result_url=redir%3Fsrc%3Dwebsearch%26requestId%3D3ea67cb9c10fc109%26clickedItemRank%3D9%26userQuery%3DSpotted%2BSnake%2Beel%26clickedItemURN%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.wetwebmedia.com%252Fophichthidae.htm%26invocationType%3D-%26fromPage%3DNSISPTop%26amp%3BampTest%3D1&remove_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.wetwebmedia.com%2Fophichthidae.htm > Also, I tripped across a blurb about not having anemones with coral?? <It's not a good idea but people do it.> I have a peppermint and 1 zoo, and 1 Ricordea mushroom (who will NOT attached to anything to save its life! Dumb Mush!)<Not unusual> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Carrie :) PS; Is indirect or direct sunlight better for the sebae? And for how long? <10-12 hours direct> Yellow <Dyed> Sebae Anemone Hi Bob, <James, today> Boy am I mad at myself!!! But I don't have hours to search for answers! Now, for each of my new purchases, I do a crazy amount of reading to ensure my pet's survival. I knew I wanted an anemone and was told the bubble tip was my best first kind. Then many of the shops here in Vegas swear that the Sebae is just as hardy. SOOOOOO.......After my gravity is 1.023 and parameters are good (78-80 degrees) Alk approx 8 to 8.4 and ph 8.1, I purchase a Yellow Sebae (the foot was yellow as well) I put the little darling in my tank after acclimating it in the drip method and it attached right where I put it (I have 55 gallon sand/LR and 260w) I shot some Zoe (Kent) into it and it seemed to love it. The next day, 2/3 of the tentacles are "shriveled up", so I am buggin' out here! Yesterday morning, oddly enough, it was more like only 1/3 shriveled up. Some of the purple tips came back, but still some tentacles are shriveled and his bottom part slightly curled up near those tentacles. I fed some brine soaked in Zoe (Kent) and it almost seemed to want it and after 30 seconds, let it go. Then it balled up and opened again to have the body of it full of water but most of the tentacles thin. I am SURE if I wanted to, the LFS I go to would take it back, they are pretty cool and generally informative. In fact they had a fluorescent-ish green sebae I almost got instead (at least the green would be better from what I read) Anyhow, I want this little guy to be happy. I was told to try some "silver backs" frozen fish chunks. What do you think? Is the Bubbletip better? Also, do they dye these as well? What color is better for a bubble tip? I have read a ton of articles on your site about sebae, but my time is short this weekend and I need an answer before he/she dies! Thanks and have a great one! <I think the biggest problem you encountered was feeding the anemone too soon. Let it get adjusted and tacked down good and bloom out before feeding. I would not feed it anymore, at least for a week. Anemones do produce a lot of their own food providing your lighting is sufficient. James (Salty Dog)><<Not dyed ones... RMF>> HELP!! Yellow Sebae Anemone - Follow-up James, Hi, thanks for your reply, I wanted to mention, putting the sebae anemone in the 3 gallon bowl thing? That was only a 1 day thing to get him in the sun, as a 55 gallon would be a little hard to carry! lol! I'm sorry if you thought I was a complete idiot as if I was going to house the anemone in a 3 gallon! That is funny! I did that while I did a 30% water change. He is back in the tank in the middle height area, and I gave him some diced silver side, and he kept it in his mouth. This morning he looked TONS better, with a smidge more "tan" color. My other LFS guy who has been in the business for 30 years only has the very light tan Sebaes, and he was aware of bleaching. His look great! I bought 3 baby ocellaris yesterday and so far they don't go near the anemone. I may throw in some baby tank/aquacultured sebae clowns to help the anemone. They are all babies, and I will be moving to a 125 as they age. Thanks for all the help, just thought you would like to know. BTW, I DO spent HOURS of time on your sight looking for answers, but when I have spent 3 to 4 hours and I cannot find the answer, I email, so please do not think I just email on a whim. Oh, by the way, 2 or 3 halves of silver backs, and the spotted snake eel chows it!!! Saves me buying those stupid ghost shrimp!! Take care! Carrie :) <Carrie, we wish more people would be like yourself and make the effort to find the answer before writing. Many questions we receive have the answers available on the Wet Web Media. Good luck with the anemone. James (Salty Dog)> Dyed rose anemone? How can I tell if my rose Anemone has been dyed or not. <there is no sure fire way to tell if an anemone has been dyed except for time. The anemone in a couple of months if dyed will turn back to its original color most of the time brown) or will die.> Bought from a guy on e-bay who sells lots of splits and had excellent feedback. My rose is pretty good color but has some green color at the base of his tentacles <normal on most> and red seems to be darker at top. <you will get many color morphs in rose anemones. I have one that is bright red all over and one that is hot pink.> Color seems to be in little dots when you look up close. The foot is pink. Tips look fluorescent orange. From what I am told dying different colors is a common scam throughout the industry. <It is but I have never heard or dying Rose anemones before.> If it is dyed how long before you think all the dye will have worn off? <couple months> I have hesitated giving this guy any feedback until I know for sure whether it has been dyed or not. If it has I want to be sure to alert others to his scam. $56 for a 3.5" Rose and $38 shipping. $56 seems too good to be true for a true rose don't you think? <YES> The pictures he puts on the web are not as dark red as the actual. You can see one of his auctions here. Check out his feedback. If it is a scam he is good. The dye lasts long enough for customers to post positive feedback? <If the guy has good feed back, I would say they are real. Only time will tell. MikeH> Thanks, Rob Dyed BTAs? 11/26/03 I bought 3 rose anemones they were deep red we got them in the tank 3 weeks later they turned bright white with hot pink tips a we think maybe they were dyed could you email to tell me your thoughts <I doubt these anemones were dyed... not heard of with BTAs. Seems much more likely they bleached from stress from poor acclimation. If you feed them well (necessary) for the next few months, they will likely recover their color and survive. Anthony> Yellow sebae anemones (see continuation: Heteractis crispa FAQs 2)Hi, Anthony, <cheers, mate> I wanted to bug you about your anti-yellow sebae anemone comment included below. While bleached Sebaes are certainly a challenge, I've kept a yellow one with blue tips for several years now without any trouble and see no harm in healthy light yellow specimens. <please understand my friend the context of my advice/comment. Here at Wet Web Media we answer queries for the benefit of so many more folks than the sole person proffering the question. On any given day, around 6,000 people (unique ISPs) read our answers to these posts on the FAQ page... the very place that you read my response. After the one day it is posted, it is archived for many more thousands of folks to read. Not all of which have the same experience or good fortune that you have enjoyed. The fact of the matter is, that of the thousands of "yellow" sebae anemones imported any given year... almost all are bleached or dyed specimens. Very few are naturally occurring. Of the few that are naturally occurring, even fewer of them actually make it into the hands of a competent aquarist with reef grade lighting. I have a mere 10+ years of witness to this reality... Bob has about 30, my friend. We are talking near 100% mortality for white/yellow specimens 1 year after collection with over 90% failing within 6 weeks of import. And so... advice like this is quite easy to proffer. What serves the greater good is apparent. I truly appreciate your input, but cannot in my position and in good faith encourage folks to pursue and support the trade of a specimen when the majority will die just because a fraction of the population succeed. A favorite saying of mine... "Even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes." I respect that act that you are a competent aquarist and I'm grateful that this anemone has found its way into your hands. As a test to see if you are truly a rare exception... let me ask if this was your first anemone, and if not... how long did the other specimens or species live?> I'm pretty sure the anemone is not in decline as its color has never changed and it has grown from about 4-5 inches to well over 12 inches (I sent you a picture last month ;-) I'm assuming you mean an Heteractis crispa by Sebae, BTW. <actually growth is extremely slow in most anemones (decades slow!)... most swell in captivity as light bulbs age (decline in light, so the it swells to spread zooxanthellae to pan in effect)> These anemones do seem to prefer the strongest light, stronger than BTAs but they also eat quite well when established, picking Mysis, brine, formula I and II from fish feeds with gusto as well as taking larger supplement feeding. <I'll believe that>> Anyway, I'm a big fan of the yellow-ish ones and don't think they should be rejected out of hand. Marc <I must stand by the wisdom that serves the greater good at the expense of success like your. With kind regards, Antony> sebae anemone Hi, I have a 125 tank with LR,300 Watts (HQI MH) it has white color. Is that good? <if the lamps are between 6500K and 10,000K in color, yes> I will add a sebae anemone next week . <brown with dark purple tips only... not white or yellow specimens (very unhealthy).> I was wondering is it possible to feed him a frozen dried food (brine shrimp). <not at all recommended... ideal foods are very finely minced meaty foods of marine origin mysids, shrimp, krill, etc. Please do research more about this anemone in the FAQs and articles on this our site www.wetwebmedia.com> I have a very good water condition. Is there any thing else I should worry about? Thank you. <so much info here on this anemone... read articles on feeding, lighting, dyed specimens, etc. best regards, Anthony> Re: Yellow sebae anemones Hi, Anthony, <cheers, Marc> I can appreciate the concern on the lighter anemones. I'm not sure I've come across dyed ones but I do admit that mine may be the only healthy yellow one I've seen. <agreed... more in the trade are simply bleached and not so many dyed although the dreadful practice seems to be resurging with dyed corals too: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dyedcorals.htm> If you are trying to steer people to greater success with anemones, though, I'd suggest sending them to BTAs. <Marc... I have no intent to steer anybody towards anemones for anything but species specific displays where they get necessary and direct attention. With the reality of poor shipping and collecting techniques, aquarists need to take the position as good stewards of the reef resources they admire so much and not contribute significantly to their further demise. Countless divers have observed that areas where many corals were collected heavily or damaged by storms have recovered in as little a one year. However, regions where anemones have been collected heavily are still barren even 10yrs later. We simply do not know enough about the physiology and reproduction of these animals to carte blanche recommend anemones for the masses of casual aquarists in tanks with unprotected overflows and powerhead intakes, other cnidarians (anemones and coral, etc).> These can be killed too, course, but seem to be a bit more tolerant and like lower light. They can be harder to feed and can sting and wander about more, though. <I feel comfortable recommending brown malu/sebae anemones and BTAs indeed to any aquarists willing to just do enough research to understand their basic needs in captivity> I've killed a few Sebaes in my day, mostly 10 years ago with poorer lighting. Within the last three years, this was my only sebae but I did recently kill two BTAs before having success with 4 BTAs after that. <good heavens, my friend... this is my point exactly. You are indeed part of the same statistics. So we have 3+ (a few) Sebaes and 2 BTA dead and five that have lived. 50/50 at best unless there were more... horrible odds. And how do we define success/living in an animal with a theoretical infinite lifespan (they have no defined senescence)? Many corals and anemones can hang in for 2 years operating near their compensation point but still dying ever so slowly by missing it slightly (as in approaching their compensation point though photosynthesis and feeding combined at say even 98% efficiency, but still dying unnoticeably slow due to the 2% daily deficit). The proof is in the pudding. I have seen corals that were nearly 20 years captive... many more over 15 and 10 years... yet you and I will be hard pressed to find an anemone that is even 5 years captive. Sure... they exist, but how many have to die in the hands of casual aquarists to get those few to survive. To be clear... I don't want to see the collection of anemones halted at all... I'd like to see more aquarists research and care for them adequately. And I do my part in the meantime to educate those that are receptive to providing for those needs and dissuade those that don't appear to be> (Per D&S, I didn't feed the first two BTAs at first because they had clowns; by the time I realized my mistake, they were in irreversible decline although they took six months to actually die.) I'm not sure how you measure true anemone size. Counting tentacles, my healthy BTAs and sebae don't seem to have too many more than the smaller ones although they do fork new ones all the time. However, their deflated mass is definitely more. <I'll take your word for it and am glad to hear it> The BTAs less so (i.e., much of their size seems to be extension) but the sebae is much heavier when squeezed down than he used to be (had to move him twice in the last year). I think his increased growth is mostly more tissue mass. But short of drying him out and weighing him, it seems hard to establish. I think he'd prefer not to be dried out. <agreed <smile>> While the BTAs seem easier to establish, once established the Sebaes are great: they don't move, they feed very easily, east almost anything (can't say the same for BTAs which often spit their food out or let someone else steal it) and they don't seem to sting their neighbors as much. <alas... as many aquarists have had contrary experience. We cannot fairly make such generalizations> I have tried a BTA and a sebae in the same tank. <this honestly bothers be... "silent" chemical aggression/allelopathy between popular anemones seems to be as potent or more severe than what we commonly ascribe to coral> In a large tank they did fine. <defined how... they live together without dying for 12 months...24 months? Still, I suspect they were battling and tolerating each other supported by your good skills as an aquarist and good water quality> In a smaller tank they stung each other too much. <the common demise of many coral> I've read the WWM warning about anemone chemical warfare and I've got to confess I'm a little suspicious of that. <good heavens my friend!... you and I could be buried in the data on this topic. I'll take the advice of the experts in the field, stay impressed by the bible length citations and spare my eyes of most> I'm sure they do try to poison each other but most soft corals are trying to poison each other as well and I'm sure anemones are trying to poison soft corals. <agreed> Doesn't good skimming pretty much take care of that? <not at all... browse analyses of skimmate. Indeed, skimming is tremendously helpful, but the quality of skimmate is highly variable and none take out enough or all such noxious element. Responsible husbandry is the key instead (and water changes <G>)> What is this comment based on and how was the normal risk of anemone decline eliminated as a cause? <the biggest wholesalers in LA (the primary and almost sole port of entry for all such animals into the US) track mortalities and the numbers are staggering. If you have any doubts, take a stroll down 104th street: you'll find the fine folks at Quality Marine counting every single damsel mortality, etc. The numbers don't lie. I realize that you are passionate about anemones my friend... but I'm not sure if you are looking for data, which I will help you secure as time allows, or just what the follow-up to your follow-up is for.> Anyway, anemones can be challenging but with good water quality, good lighting and the right tank mates they can be pretty easy as well. <all a matter of perspective, Marc. You are a fine aquarist but most of the new and still inexperienced folk that we counsel will kill 5 of their first six anemones just like you did by your own admission above ("before having success with 4 BTAs"). > Once established, I've yet to have one died and I can't say that about hard corals and some soft corals. <then you aren't doing it right ;) > I will say that I don't have anemones in a large, mixed reef tank anymore nor would I do it again (it can work but too much trouble). <much agreed> Currently I have my sebae in a 45G tank and it's the center piece with some Zoanthids and mushrooms to fill in the odds and ends. <Ughhh> Lighting is that 2x150W MH and 2 VHOs you were aghast about earlier ;-) <again... "even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes". Heehee... you are sure one lucky AND talented squirrel> Always enjoy the chats, Marc <yikes... it feels more like sparring. Maybe you can try the Vulcan mind-meld to get me to promote the continued wholesale slaughter of anemones? In all seriousness, Marc... if you get a good 10 (or 30!) year look behind the scenes of the industry, you will see and agree that the promotion of these animals to casual aquarists does not serve the greater good. I think we can all agree that we would rather self-police and limit their collection to prevent that they are always legal for us to keep in aquaria and so that there really are some left in the ocean for our grandchildren to see. Anthony> Re: Yellow sebae anemones Hi, Anthony, <cheers, my friend> I must confess I do like a good argument from time to time; keeps the brain exercised. <heehee... I would have to agree. I've got a strange dichotomy of my own: the older I get the less fight I have in me yet I'm just as inclined to embrace "grumpy old man" syndrome early :)> I'll defer to your data from the wholesalers; that sounds like a good source of information. <yes my friend... by sheer volume of the sample> I questioned the original assertion for reasons you gave yourself: anemones tend to die anyway in captivity. That then makes it hard to separate cause and effect. <agreed> We have probably all be guilty of grasping for a cause when a specimen dies and "warring anemones" sounded to me like such a supposed cause. But, with a large sample size like an importer gets, that is statistically relevant data. Can't blame me for challenging you to the point that you revealed your data, though ;-) <true <VBG>> If you have them, I'd love to see the numbers but if not, I'll defer to your judgment on them. <actually, I don't think it would take much to dig relevant data/reports. As an aquarist (and especially the industry professionals) one of the best investments in your education is a trip to LA to visit the big wholesalers. You can walk into almost any facility and browse... you/we can arrange to chat with folks sometimes too. Fantastic to hear their reports/experiences and to see the inner workings of the industry. Many of the very biggest are all together within walking distance (industrial strip on 104th street by the airport). If you ever get the chance do check them out... a wild experience. Plus you get to see all of our dream toys! $15K skimmers.... tanks with 50 Goldflake angels, etc :P > What's the "ugh" part about the anemone mixed with mushrooms and Zoanthids? <Corallimorphs and Zoantharians are categorically 2 of the top 10 noxious cnidarians. Zoanthidea has the most complex and arguably most potent toxin known (I've been poisoned by it before and lost my sense of taste for a full day). I suppose I have concern that they will contribute significantly to toxic soup> My experience is the BTAs will sting Zoanthids and mushrooms. <agreed... but its not a one sided battle. The "losers" may be kept at bay but still will shed defensive compounds that degrade the water quality for all... all to concentrate in time and perhaps lead to a "mysterious" death that is not so mysterious> Both because they have a potent sting and because they just seem to get around more (a little shifting of the base creates a large sting zone). Dead, dying and warring corals are most certainly not a good thing; lots of bad chemicals released. I tried it, watched it carefully for a few weeks and having observed a bad response, sold my BTA to someone who has good success with BTAs. The sebae on the other hand, doesn't appear to be stressed nor stressing anyone. If everything is happy and growing, what's the harm? <I do agree until we learn otherwise. I fully respect and value a trained eye of an aquarist... knowing ones charges> From my own experience and from what I've read in multiple sources, I got the impression that BTAs are hardier. Also, since some strains clone so much, it is possible to stock entirely from tank clones which is why, if someone asks me, I tend to steer people to BTAs rather than Sebaes. I take it they doesn't jive with your experience? <no my friend... in fact, I personally do like BTAs better for many reasons... especially the ease of cloning> Just for the clones, it seems BTAs are a better anemone to recommend, assuming one is recommending anemones at all (which I take it you aren't). <The truth is I simply hate to recommend any anemones to most people and if I have to, a brown sebae/malu anemone is less demanding for light than most BTAs. Since poor lighting is the most common problem we see... brown anemones get the nod for beginners just like brown corals do.> As to my mortality rates, nothing to be proud of but I do try to learn. <agreed, my friend... I have certainly learned the same way with some... sorry to say. Through our (you/me/all) articles and advice proffered to new aquarists we can hopefully teach them to avoid our mistakes> We'll see how long this one lasts and I am curious about my Zoanthid/mushroom question (two paragraphs up) because if you can convince me it is a bad idea, I'll remove them. <I could live with it in a system with aggressive nutrient export: small weekly water changes, heavy carbon, efficient skimming... perhaps a larger tank> The anemone is my prize specimen and it trumps everything. However, all I have to go on is the apparent health of the tank which I watch closely (it's right beside my computer ;-) and with the corals reproducing well and the anemone getting bigger all the time, eating well and fully extended, it is hard to see a risk here. <awesome> Definitely not interested in killing the anemones so I support your and the rest of WWM's efforts to improve their lot. ... <thank you kindly> but what about advocating only tank-raised BTA clones? At the very least the doomed anemone isn't coming from the ocean. <although not all would, I agree with this idea and sentiment in essence fully> They aren't that easy to come by but there also isn't harm in making aquarist wait and think about their purchase longer. <yes> Most aquarist prefer tank stock any way since it tends to be hardier. <very much so> Anyway, I'll keep myself in the blind squirrel category until I can keep the anemone alive for a few more years... Marc Q <a wise squirrel at that! Likely wiser than I am :) Thanks for the good humor and stimulating discussion... many aquarists will benefit from our dialogue. Kindly, Anthony Calfo> |
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Dyed and dying. B
Whoa!