FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Health 8
Related Articles: Bubble
Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine
Systems by Bob Fenner, Bubble Tip
Anemones by Jim Black, Recent
Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones,
Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: BTA
Disease 1, BTA Disease 2,
BTA Disease 3, BTA Disease 4, BTA
Health 5, BTA Health 6, BTA Health 7, BTA Health
9, BTA Health 10,
BTA
Health 11,
BTA Health 12, BTA
Health 13,
FAQs on BTA Disease by Category:
Diagnosing,
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (e.g. Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest, Treatments
& E. quad. FAQ
1, E. quad FAQ 2, E. quad. FAQ 3, E.
quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA ID, BTA Compatibility, BTA Selection, BTA
Behavior, BTA Systems, BTA Feeding, BTA
Reproduction/Propagation,
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New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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sick anemone? BTA rdg. 10/14/08
Hello guys, I was wondering if you could have a look at this rose
bubble anemone. I have had it for a couple weeks. It seems to be
losing color and getting more spotty looking. Also, the
"bubble" tips don't really bubble much. <This
last is a clue, but not evidence of diminished health per se>
It is open most of the day, but seems to close up into a ball at
least a couple times per day. <Mmm> It doesn't move
very far from this area. I have fed it small chunks of krill
<How small?> a couple times per week. My water parameters
are logged, and average at the following: SG: 1.023 <Too
low> ph 8.4 Alk 10 dKH ammonia 0 nitrites 0 nitrates 4.0
(steadily decreasing) <Not an issue> po4 0 <Might be an
issue... how, why is soluble phosphate zero? IS a necessary
component of this (and other) animal's health/nutrition>
calcium 420 temp 80 I dose with iodide (half recommended dose)
daily. <... I would not do this... Maybe full dose... on
days/occasions when you change out water> water changes 15%
every other week Any ideas as to why this guy looks so sad? Any
input would be appreciated. Thank you. <All the speculations
above. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
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Re: sick anemone? reading... BTA
10/14/08 Perhaps I am incorrect about the po4 level. I
just started testing for it with the Salifert test. It is the
first time I have used their products. I will retest in case of
an error. What is the best result for po4 that I should shoot
for? <Mmm... a "trace"... actually, as I vaguely
hinted at "IF" you're not doing something to
absolutely exclude HPO4, then you're likely fine here... That
is, enough will be supplied "incidentally" through all
foods, cycling of same...> In the test kit it says that .1 is
critically high. <Mmm, I disagree> As for the krill
feeding, I cut the frozen krill into pieces about the size of a
match stick head. Thanks so much for your help. Jason <Please
do read where you were referred. BobF>
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Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral
Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/4/08 I am new to
this site and am not sure where this will end up on the site---it
appears to be a bit confusing to me. I have 2 questions.
<Okay! > I found several articles on bulb tipped anemones
and found some great information. Mine (Annie--2 weeks old) has
just decided last night to fill with water and float all over the
tank. I understand this behavior means she is not happy and is
looking for a prime spot. <Correct> Also, she seems a
little lighter in color---perhaps she is not getting the proper
nutrition/lighting. <It has expelled some of its zooxanthellae. This can be caused from lack of lighting,
nutrition or another form of stress. > However she refuses to
stick anywhere and has very little reaction to tentacle
stimulation---and refuses to eat anything. <This does not
sound promising. > I used tongs to target feed some fresh
shrimp, then brine shrimp---she may have eaten a small amount of
a shrimp pellet. <Brine shrimp is useless unless it is newly
hatched, or enriched. Discontinue the pellet food, and try small
portions of Krill, Mysis Shrimp, or Silversides. > My tank
parameters have been consistent and good, and all of my critters
are doing very well. How long do they usual do the float?
<Until they find a suitable spot. If one is not available, it
may float around until its death. > I know no one that has a
different/better set up. Any ideas I can do? I also was given a
small tentacle coral plate. <Fungia? > I also have read
about their behavior----swelling with water at times.
However-mine lives on a sandy substrate and the only indicator I
see that she is alive, is that she is still orange. I see no
tentacles and no food moving towards her mouth and refuses target
feeding. She also has mucous around her. <Is it getting any
flow? What are you feeding? How long have you had it? > I hope
to hear from you soon-in the meantime I will continue to read
more on your website! <Good! > 38G, live rock---mushrooms
and polyps (1/2 the tank)---"shelf" model---rest is
sand and small shells Nova extreme lighting-4 T5s-2 actinic blue,
2 VHO-Led light at night Penguin BioWheel 150 filter and a
protein skimmer <What kind of protein skimmer? Do you have any
other flow? > 2 Percula clowns, 3 green Chromis, 1 black and
white Damsel, 3 blue/yellow tail Damsels <That's a whole
lot of Damsels! > Several species of snail and hermit crabs,
<Crabs can be predators. > 1 scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp,
1 peppermint shrimp, 1 serpent star, 1 bristle star, 1 shifting
sand star T=78, PH=8.2, SG=1.022, <This is much too low of
salinity for anemones. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by adding
pre-mixed saltwater as your top off daily. > ammonia=0,
nitrite=0, nitrates=5-10, <Work on getting nitrates down to
zero. > calcium---350-400ppm, 12-14 dKH, <Your calcium is a
bit low and your dKH is a bit high. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm What is your magnesium
level? > phosphates=.5 <Needs to be zero. > I also
perform a 5 gallon water changes weekly and rinse filters daily.
<Filters do not need to be rinsed daily. How old is your
system? How much live rock do you have? > Thank you! Christina
<You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral
Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/4/08 6/9/08
Thanks for the reply Brenda! <You're welcome! > Annie
(BTA) is still alive-I am not sure how-unless she is getting
minimal nutrition from the shrimp that I feed the fish. <It is
likely getting some nutrition from the waste from the fish. >
I lightly squished her into the live rock before bedtime-and
hoped she wouldn't die---But she actually likes the spot!!!
<Perfect! I'll keep my fingers crossed that it stays. Just
be careful when handling the anemone. They are very delicate
creatures.> Today I am going to buy some Krill, Mysis shrimp
and silversides. <Great! > Re: the Fungia-I have no alt
flow-I can buy a powerhead also. <You will need the added
flow. This may have been what the anemone was looking for also.
Be sure to cover the intake to protect the anemone.> I am
feeding-frozen brine shrimp, shrimp pellets, sometimes fresh
shrimp (small chunks), and Nori. The Fungia is still bright
orange. I have had her for 4 weeks. My tank overall is a new
tank---approximately 9 months old. I put in 19 lbs live rock when
I set the tank up. I am bringing the SG up-as you said and yes, a
lot of Damsels---a couple have a "gig" next week-to
help cycle my mom's tank. <I don't recommend using
fish to cycle a tank. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcyclfaq2.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm The parameters are
better (ca2+ and alkalinity, ca=440ppm, and Alk=10dKH) Plan: Get
Krill, Mysis shrimp, Silversides and Powerhead Slowly increase SG
Get Magnesium tests I am trying with frequent water changes to
bring the nitrates and phosphates down. <Have you considered a
refugium and/or macro algae. More information found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm > What is the best
food for Fungia-I have heard many different opinions. <Meaty
foods such as the Mysis, Silversides or Krill. > I will have
to get back to you about the type of protein Skimmer. Thanks
again!! Teena <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral
Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/11/08 Just a quick
update--The Anemone is eating the Silversides and the Fungia is
eating (I now actually see it) the Mysis shrimp!! Everyone if
happy with the increase in flow! Thanks again and I will talk to
you soon! <That is great news! Brenda>
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Troubled bubble tip-
Bubble Tipped Anemone Lacking Light 4/29/08 Hi Crew,
<Yunachin here.> Hopefully you can give me some promising
information. I have a small bubble tip anemone that has been happy
in my tank for a little over a year. This past week, the ballast in
my light went out and I only have 36 watts on my tank until the
replacement gets here on Friday. In the past few days, it has begun
to detach itself from the rock and that seems a little worrisome.
Would this be in regards to the lack of light? <Yes. Anemones
will position themselves to get the best light or avoid too much
light.> I will have the new ballast and 72 watts back on by
Friday, but I wasn't sure if this is the problem, or something
else. I have attached a picture that shows the foot detachment from
the rock. It seems healthy otherwise, but if there is something I
can do to prevent any further stress, then I wanted to get ahead of
the game. <Everything looks good. I am sure when you replace the
light that everything will be back to normal. It may move a bit but
it looks healthy otherwise.> Thanks in advance for all the
help!! Thanks!!!!
<You're welcome. --Yunachin>
Rachael |
There is a Euphyllia to the right...
RMF |
Anemone Health and Systems -- 4/24/08 My BTA is
deflating in a very alarming way since Saturday morning. I
understand they can deflate to defecate but this is not it.
I've had the BTA for 3 months now and she has never acted this
way. She is deflating with mouth wide open. <This is not
good!> I can see her cavity empty. She is releasing a very thick
gel (no poo) She will remain like this for the next 3-4 hours and
come back to life. When she does, especially during night time, she
gets very enlarged (over inflated) tips bubbled up, not normal for
her. <It is not uncommon for this species to have bubbled tips
some times and not at other times.> The water parameters are PH
8.0-8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrates 0, the hard Nitrates 0.5 (just fed 2
hrs ago) the KH 10. The GH text never works for me but today is the
schedule water change. There are a few factors to consider so I
need your help. First, I did a Blackout on 4/12 for 40 hours to
control algae bloom. <What is causing the algae bloom?> After
that my largest Clownfish changed behavior. He is the only
clownfish that was purchased at a store. He (or should I say She)
is projecting dominance towards my other clownfish. These acts of
dominance are staged on the anemone. Can the clownfish be roughing
up the BTA? <Yes.> Could she be repelling the fish? <It
looks to be starving and slightly bleached. What have you been
feeding?> On Friday I moved my small Hammer coral 5 inches down
from the BTA who sits in the top of a cave. The BTA did not show
any signs of harm or stress. See April 18 pic. <You have only
sent April 23 pictures.> On that day I also change the power
head that is pointed in the direction of the BTA (on 15min
intervals). It is a stronger power head than the last one. <Be
careful with powerheads. I don't recommend there use in a tank
with anemones. If your anemone starts to wander, which is a likely
event, it will be shredded.> Because she looked fine around 5pm,
I decided to meet with my clownfish breeder to get more fish. I had
4, one died and soon after the aggression began. <You will have
aggression with more than one pair of clownfish. Only one pair per
tank unless you have a system of a few hundred gallons or more.
Even with a few hundred gallons, there is no guarantee that the
clownfish will get along.> That Saturday night I also purchased
some frags a Xenia and a Frogspawn from the breeder. When I came
home to add the new species the BTA looked normal. I positioned the
Frogspawn 3 inches from the Hammer coral who immediately released
thin streaks of gel. <How did you acclimate?> It was late at
night and I didn't pay any attention to it and went to bed.
Next morning the corals look great but the anemone didn't.
After finding out the chemical war I probably initiated between the
two corals, I moved the Frogspawn to the other end of the tank.
Still, the BTA shriveled up and released gel the next day. Can the
corals be causing the problem? <They are not helping.> The
BTA is fed Mysis and little shrimps. <You may want to try small
portions of Silversides soaked in Selcon.> By accident we fed
the anemone 4 times last week (boyfriend forgot to check the
feeding calendar I keep on the fridge) I normally place the shrimp
on the tentacles next to the mouth and she picks it up if desired.
Apparently she desired all 4 times. <Is there anything stealing
its food?> To add to it...On Monday night my mother in-law got
me a Sebae Anemone. It is sitting in the opposite side of the tank,
attached and looking great. I don't know if my tank is big
enough to keep both. <It is not recommended to keep different
species of anemones in the same tank.> I will get a smaller tank
to keep it separate if needed. <This tank needs to be a well
established environment for an anemone. Six months to one year of
age is the recommendation.> I have a 120g tank that has been
running since Nov 07, skimmer, sump, 3 power heads and VHO light
system. <Your tank wasn't ready for an anemone. This is
adding to the problems. I recommend using Metal Halide Lighting or
some T-5 with individual reflectors on a tank of this depth. This
may be part of the anemones problem.> The BTA was added to the
tank 3 months ago Hammer Coral in tank for 3 weeks Neon green
Nephthea in tank for 1 month Frogspawn Coral and Xenia and a small
frag of Porites coral were added on Saturday night Sebae anemone,
blue hippo tang and new small frag of pink polyps were added Monday
night (gift from the in-laws). 7 Clownfish (one died before the
blackout) <Yikes! That is a lot of clownfish! Five of them need
to find new homes.> Yellow Tang Blue Hippo Tang Snowflake
Eel...don't ask :) <You really need to research your live
stock before you purchase and add to your system.> I added pics
from this morning changes 10am and 2pm. I will appreciate ANY
advice you can give specially in the landscaping area. <More
live rock would help. You don't have nearly enough for a 120
gallon system.> As you can see, it's very difficult for me
to plan the landscape based on species, temperament, light and
water flow. <This becomes easier in time with a lot of research.
More information on anemones found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm > Thank you
<You're welcome! Brenda> |
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E. quadricolor, BTA Health -- 4/24/08 Hi Crew,
<Hello, Brenda here! > We have a local reefer who was sold a
"rainbow" BTA that I'm calling out as bleached. <There
is no such thing as a 'rainbow' BTA. Yes, this anemone is
definitely bleached. > I'm trying to give some tips on care
(heavier than normal feeding, low to moderate light) and I'd like
your opinion on it as well, and appreciate it:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k133/lishoop6/Jeannastank4-22-08001.jpg <Heavy feeding will only cause more stress on this animal. Over
feeding will cause regurgitation, leaving the anemone with nothing. I
recommend feeding small portions soaked in Selcon daily. What lighting
is this anemone being kept under? More information found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonehealthfaqs.htm
Brenda >
E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/14/07
Hello once again! <Hello Ryan, Brenda here> I have yet
another question for you. <Not a problem!> It never ends,
does it? <No, but this is how we all learn, and why we are
here.> Thanks for all your great help so far and hopefully you
can help me out with this interesting situation? <I'll
try!> I recently moved my bubble tip anemone and its clone to
a new tank. The new tank was setup with existing live rock and
water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae. <This is not an
instant cycle. This creature needs an established environment,
including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6 months, one
year is best.> Everything has been going well, except the
endless walking around the tank. <It is not happy.>
Different flow and lights will cause that. <The new tank is
likely the cause.> Yesterday I came home from work and found
something interesting. The anemones had been fed the day before
and looked a little unhappy. <What are you feeding it?> I
took a look and found something interesting? I've posted this
on three forums and no one has responded, which, in my opinion
means no one has an answer? Today the anemones look much happier
and the "egg sac" in the attached picture is gone.
After I took the picture last night I noticed the tentacle
started to tear open but I did not stay up late enough to see if
anything was released? I added some carbon and did a water change
just in case something in the tank was off. <You need to keep
a close eye on your water parameters.> Thanks for looking,
Ryan.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
It is just to the right of the mouth. <Yes, I see this.>
Any ideas? <Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here
is a link to a thread that shows eggs inside of an anemone. The
pictures in this thread are amazing.
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a
good article to read:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm As far
as what is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to
me like one of its tentacles has become injured or irritated.
What are the tank mates, including fish, corals and
invertebrates? Have you noticed anything bothering it? Are there
any possibilities that salt accumulated somewhere and dropped
into the tank, landing on the anemone? What are your water
parameters? How long has this tank been up and running? Did you
transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how long did you leave it
cycle before adding the livestock? Thanks again. <You're
welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
11/15/07 Hi Brenda, thanks for the reply. <Hello Ryan, and
you're welcome!> You are not going to like this?
<Yikes!> I did the entire change over in one day!
<Ouch!> After asking many people if it would be OK if I
used existing live rock and water as well as some Chaeto, they
all said yes. <No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.>
So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were
fine until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp
I've fed for over a year. My ammonia was a little high the
day after and I'm assuming that one or both of the anemones
did not eat their "dinner", causing the higher ammonia.
<The ammonia spike is caused by the cycle. This is extremely
toxic to anemones.> I did a water change to fix the problem, a
rather large water change and after that they both looked fine.
Here are the water parameters, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm
sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10 DKH, salinity 1.025, temp.
79....I think that's it. <I do recommend a salinity of
1.026 for anemones.> The tank has a couple of frags that were
attached to the live rock, Montipora and that is it, no other
corals or fish....oh other than the one Palythoa hijacker. Please
let me know if there is a way I can fix this situation? <I
suggest getting the anemones out of there for a while. See if you
can find someone local to take it in. If you are starting with a
new sand bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6 months. If you
transferred the old sand bed, it will take less time, but I
can't give you an exact time frame. It could take a few
weeks, or even a few months. There are too many variables. You
will need to keep checking your water parameters. Once everything
has been stable for a while, you can put the anemones back
in.> I assure you I did a lot of questioning before I went
ahead with this move and everyone said it was fine. Now I need
your help, please. I did not check the links yet because I'm
in a bit of a rush and trying to catch you today rather than
tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan. <You're welcome!
Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
11/16/07 Thank you Brenda! <You're Welcome!> Sorry
to keep this going back and forth with you. <No need to be
sorry!> The sand is new, I thought I was saving myself cycling
issues by doing this rather than using old "dirty"
sand, apparently I was wrong. <Even when using old sand, there
will still be a cycle.> I have little trust in others in my
area, I work at a LFS but don't want my anemones there
because they cram them all in one little tank. <Ouch! I know
what you mean! When visiting a LFS, I first look at how they
treat their anemones. I can't count how many times I've
left feeling sick! I have found very few LFS that provide an
adequate environment for this creature.> I don't know
anyone else (local) with a tank that would be suited to keep
anemones. <Wish I could help, I would gladly take the anemones
in for a while if you were local.> So that being said I would
prefer to try and fix the problem by myself. I watch things very
carefully and hopefully I can pull this off? I have a SPS reef
tank that has been doing great for over a year (started it before
that). Here's what I've been doing. I'm making 5
gallons of new saltwater per day, letting it rest (with a pump)
for a day, adding that to my reef tank, then I take 5 gallons out
of my reef tank and change 5 gallons on my anemone tank. <This
is a waste of effort in my opinion. You simply can not create an
instant cycle. Your new tank needs time to cycle. Dirty water is
not the solution. Once your tank has cycled it will still not be
an adequate environment for anemones.> Not the best method but
hopefully this will get me through this 6 month period? I know
you are not going to be all that fond of this idea. <No,
I'm not fond at all, neither are the anemones. They need an
established environment, no less than 6 months, no short cuts
here.> Do you think it is possible to keep my anemones if I
continue to do this? <It is a possibility, but not a
probability, also not fair to the anemones to be kept in such an
environment.> My other option would be to somehow get them
back in my reef tank. <This would be my choice, with a slow
drip acclimation to reduce added stress.> I would prefer not
to lose my corals. That is an option that I would rather not go
for. <Were the anemones in the SPS tank previously? Were there
problems that made you decide to move them, roaming, etc.? I keep
anemones with SPS, and have had no issues. My anemones do not
roam, and I keep the SPS away from the anemones. Granted, this is
not a guarantee that they won't roam someday. Can you tell me
more about your SPS tank? Size, equipment, livestock, water
parameters, amount of flow, RO or RO/DI water, is there room for
the anemones? I appreciate your help a lot. Please try and see
things from my point of view on this. <I do, (and the anemones
view) we've all made mistakes.> I am doing my best to keep
them happy. I guess I should have emailed you first, before I
made the transfer. By the way both anemones look very healthy and
happy! <This may not be long term.> Thanks so much, Ryan.
<You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues... Brenda!
Refer Ryan! -- 11/16/07 Hi Brenda, <Hello Ryan!>
Thanks again! <You're welcome!> The anemones were in
the SPS tank before but the two used to be one, it split and then
both started roaming. <Both are a sign of stress.> They are
also very large so their tentacles swaying in the current (lots
of flow) were causing problems with my corals and clam. <Yes,
that is a problem!> I use RO/DI water, have 4000 gph of flow
(90 gallon tank), <That is a lot of flow, likely too much for
anemones.> a EuroReef skimmer, Kalk reactor, refugium with a
DSB and Chaeto, 500 watts of metal halide lighting (10K), 100+
pounds of live rock, 30 gallon sump, etc. <Nice
equipment!!!> My water parameters in the SPS tank are ammonia
0, nitrite 0, nitrate 1.5, calcium 400, DKH 11, Ph 8.3, temp. 79,
SG 1.025-1.026.....I think I got all of those? My SPS tank is
packed full of corals and my main concern is the anemones
wandering or letting loose of the live rock and floating into a
Tunze powerhead. <I don't recommend the use of powerheads
with anemones. If you must use them, they need to be covered with
something to protect the anemone.> I can provide you a link to
a picture to show you my tank so you get a feel for how packed it
is. My other thought was putting them in the refugium but then I
would have to buy an additional light and most likely keep that
light on at the same time my tank lights are on (not sure why I
think that?). <I don't know why you think that either. I
recommend the refugium light to be on at opposite times of the
main tank. Placing the anemones in the sump (with proper
lighting) is an option as long as you can be sure the anemones
are protected from all pumps. Anemones going through a pump can
wipe out an entire system. Without seeing your set up or knowing
how much flow is going through it, I really can't recommend
it.> I certainly want to keep the anemones happy so I'll
do what I need to. I'm also wondering if there would be a
safe way to connect the two tanks for a period of 6 months. I
cannot drill the tank, it's brand new acrylic and cost enough
that I would not feel comfortable putting a temporary hole in it.
<I don't blame you. What size/type tank is your new one?
How close is it to the old one? What lighting do you have on it?
Do you have any old tanks around that you could temporarily
connect to the established tank, a 20 gallon or so? I do suggest
running carbon, and frequent water changes when mixing coral and
anemones. The initial problems you experienced may have been
caused by chemical warfare, along with too much flow.> I
really appreciate all your help. Here's a picture so you can
see what I'm dealing with.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1508.jpg
<Yes, a bit crowded for anemones.> I guess the other option
would be to cage them in with some egg crate until they are
attached and happy? <There are no guarantees that creating a
cage will create happiness. I believe there is simply too much
flow in your main tank, and possibly chemical warfare. In the
mean time, take a cup or two of sand out of your established
tank, and start seeding your new tank.> Thanks once again,
Ryan. <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
11/17/07 Thanks Brenda! <You're welcome> Wow the
longest running WWM FAQ ever....I'm joking. I do have extra
tanks but connecting them safely would be an issue. The only way
I could do that is to have a pump in the main tank and a pump in
the connected tank, both pumping water back and forth, we both
know you should not do that. The refugium may work. I have no
pumps in the Fuge, just a feed pump from a different area of the
sump which supplies clean water and lower flow. I would need to
upgrade the lighting but other than that I think that may work.
Here's what I'm going to do today. Take some sand out of
the refugium, add it to the anemone tank, take a large amount of
Chaeto and add that to the anemone tank as well. I am also going
to try and add some flow without having a pump directly in the
tank with the anemones. I think they miss the flow. Both settled
in a very high flow location in my reef tank so maybe that's
what they're looking for. <They are suffering from being
placed in a non-cycled/non-established tank. It is important that
you get them out of there. This is not only very stressful on
anemones, but also one of the leading causes of death in
captivity.> I'll assume this will be the last email about
this, so once again thanks so much for all your help. I'll
give you an update in a month or so. Thanks, Ryan. <Good luck
to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
4/7/08 Hi Brenda, <Hello Ryan! It has been a while! > I
hope you're the one who gets this? <Sorry for the delay,
I've been out for a few days. > I wanted to let you know
everything with the two anemones is going well, no issues at all.
It was a little rough at the start but after a month or so
everything seemed to cool off. <Keep an eye on them. You are
just approaching the 6-month mark. The stress that the move has
caused them over the last few months could cause them to rapidly
decline if there is even a slight problem. > The anemones have
not moved in months and are very happy in their new home.
<Good to hear! > I seem to have a bit of a nutrient issue
which caused a population of Aiptasia to explode, but other than
that everything is going really well. <You'll want to get
that under control. Aiptasia can sting BTAs.> I recently
bought a used AquaC Remora skimmer, which will help with the
nutrient load. <Awesome product! Keep the pump away from the
anemones. > I know you thought and insisted this could not be
done, but with frequent water changes and careful feeding I seem
to have accomplished something most apparently cannot? <My
thoughts have not changed. It is very stressful on the anemones,
unfair, and often deadly. See the before and after pictures that
you submitted below. > I also added 2 black and white clowns
(tank bred), which love the anemones! <Adorable clownfish!
> Here is a picture of the happy anemones and their happy
clowns.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
<It looks like they have lost quite a bit of color
(zooxanthellae) since this picture that you sent me in November:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
This really shows just how stressful the last few months have
been on them. If there are no more problems, they should continue
to recover.> Thanks for all your help!! You're welcome!
Good luck to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
4/8/08 <Hello Ryan!> Thanks for the concern and
pointing out the color difference to me, but I think I have an
explanation of why they looked so bright before? <Okay.>
That picture, the one from November was taken when the lights
were off using flash and possibly a flashlight. The color from
the flash or flashlight is much more yellow than the color from
the lights on the tank. The reason I took that picture at that
time was because it was the only time the anemone was deflated
enough to see the weird egg shaped tentacle. I'm not saying
this was a brilliant idea to put the anemones in a new tank and I
hope things continue to work out the way they have. <I hope so
too. However, this photo
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
leads me to believe this anemone has not completely regained its
health. > The lighting they were in before was 500 watts of
metal halide and now they are under 130 watts of PC lighting.
<What size tank are they in now?> Maybe that caused a
difference in color as well? <Lighting does play a role in
coloration. However, I'm seeing some white and some areas
that look a bit transparent.> They have been eating when I
feed, which has been very sparingly so far and appear to be
perfectly happy? <Try feeding some small portions of
silversides soaked in Selcon, and feeding more often.> I
really hope I'm not wrong and this continues to work out?
<With an adequate environment, they will continue to
improve.> About the skimmer, it's located in a back
chamber of the tank; the tank has an internal filtration system
so everything is hidden behind the overflow which should prevent
any damage to the anemones from pumps. <Great!> Thanks for
all your help and if you would like I can give you another update
in a month or two? <That would be great!> Thanks again,
Ryan <You're welcome! Brenda>
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BTA anemone.... hlth. 3/30/08 I Just want to
make sure my BTA is ok. <Hi, Mike I here with you today> I had a
GBTA shipped to me it looked great the first day. It was acclimated
properly all of my parameters are ok according to Salifert tests
<You don't list them, so cant comment> My salinity is 23 with
a refractometer. <This could do with being pushed up slowly over
time to around 1.025/6 I have a 180 g with 30 g sump at least 100# live
rock. It 's been up for over a year I have a G+4 skimmer with recirc mod and a canister carbon filter. Lighting is 3 250w MH 4 96w
compact actinic and moon lighting all on timers coralline power heads
and 1200 maxi jets with the impeller mod.s There is no coral yet can I
have Acans with a BTA? <Other have, and providing you're skimmer
is adequately sized for your tank, and perhaps you run a little carbon
frequently, there should be no issues> Fish are tangs, true Percs
gobies and a 6 line. My question is it shriveled a lot but is still
bright green It doesn't open all the way not much for balls on the
tips. it did the first day I also left the MH off the first day)
<It's common for anemones to take a little while longer after
initial acclimation to settle, deflation and re-inflation, providing it
does not go on into 2 weeks I wouldn't initially be concerned with
the information you have provided. However, if something is off in your
water quality, then could be linked> It secured itself to one of my
overflows but what is all the white slime? I removed the slime is it
poop? <I don't know without a picture. It not common for white
slime to slough off anemones, only when they are in the final stages of
decomposition.> It has some dark balls in it looks almost like
spider webs is it digesting <Dark balls/spiders web, hmmm, the only
thing I can think of regarding dark balls is that BTAs can brood
eggs/sperm and release fertilised planulae - not likely in this case
however. Again a picture would help> I fed it a silver side the
second day I have had it for about 5 days opens more under the moon
lights than it has during the day. <Again, not uncommon while it
adjusts to your lighting regime, which may be considerably more than it
has been used to of late> I just want to make sure It survives. The
Percs love it. I let it go in the current and place it self and have
not moved it. Thanks for the help <Firstly, please run your question
through a spell check before sending if possible, and don't forget
punctuation - it makes it much easier for us to deal with your queries.
I recommend you start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and then the linked indices on BTAs starting perhaps here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
I'm concerned to hear you animal has settled near overflows - do be
careful; these are very delicately bodies animals and can tear/injure
easily. This goes for the powerheads you mention too. make sure they
are covered/protected so the animal cannot hurt itself. Do write back
if you have any extra information as requested, or if we can help
further. Good luck! Mike I>
Re: BTA anemone 4/1/08 It doesn't look
like it is decomposing. It is mostly open today. I was just wondering
what the white slime was. I can't take a picture of it cause I took
the slime out there was a lot of it all around the anemone thanks.
<Hi Tayler! Mike I again. The only thing I can think of
could be the animals own mucus that sometimes comes from handling. If
it reoccurs do take a picture, but if not, it may be nothing to worry
about. Good luck, and watch those powerheads! Mike I>
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