|
|
FAQs about Fluorescent Light and Lighting for Marine Systems, End
Caps Related FAQs:
Fluorescent Light 1, Fluorescent Light
2, Fluorescent Light 3,
Normal Output (NO), High Output (HO),
Very High Output (VHO),
Compact Fluorescents (CFs, PCs), Compact
Fluorescents 2, T5, TN Fluorescent
Lighting, & FAQs on Fluorescent:
Fixture Selection, Ballasts,
Regular and High-Output Lamp Selection,
PC Lamp Selection, T-5 Lamp Selection,
Lamp Life-Span Issues, Power
Consumption Issues, Installation-Wiring,
Troubleshooting/Repairing,
By Make/Model/Manufacturer: &
Metal Halide Lighting, Lighting
Marine Invertebrates, LR
Lighting, Tridacnid
Lighting, Small
System Lighting, Related
Articles:
Fluorescent Light &
Lighting, Spectral
Quality of Various Fluorescent Lamps by Dana Riddle,
T5 Fluorescent Lighting, Coral System
Lighting, | |
VHO end-cap and bulb question 2/20/07
Will a
regular t12 end cap for a hardware store work with VHO bulbs? Moisture
isn't a problem as I have been running CF for over 3 years without
moisture proof end caps.
Thanks
<Hey Shaun, JustinN with you
this morning. Yes, regular T12 end caps will fire VHO bulbs, however, I
cannot condone the use of non-moisture resistant end caps in an aquatic
setting -- there is a LOT of juice running through those end caps!
-JustinN>
VHO End-Cap Meltdown...A Case For A Splashguard?...Or Just The Wrong
Type Of End-Cap? – 08/15/07
Good evening crew!
<<Hiya
Goldie! [flashbacks of “Sin City” going through my mind... Uh-oh, I
think I’ve caught Marv’s attention...time to run!...]>>
My VHO
lights went out last weekend, and I first thought it was the harness
shorting out.
<<Oh?>>
So I ordered a new one and took the
lights down to prepare for the repair job ahead. Once I got them
down, I noticed that one of the bulbs was nearly black, and the cap
was melted!
<<Yikes!>>
My guess is water got in the cap, the
cap overheated, and eventually it all shorted out.
<<Actually,
the short caused the overheating/melting...and one can only guess
the cause here, but if these were not three-piece “hard” plastic
end-caps then the heat from the VHO bulbs themselves may have
softened/melted the end-cap leading to the short>>
Good thing I
ordered new caps with the harness...
<<But what kind?>>
So my
question is this: what kind of splash shield can I use? Can I just
put an aluminum shield around the ends to protect the caps?
<<Mmm, I think a clear Plexiglas shield along the length of the
light fixture would be better than a “partial” shield that will
likely not prove effective. But the best option is to use the
correct type/style of moisture-proof end-caps such as these
(http://www.aquacave.com/detail.aspx?ID=737)>>
Or should I do
something bigger, like a Plexiglas or glass shield on the tank
itself?
<<This too is an option...though be aware “any” type of
splash shield is going to reduce the efficacy of the lighting>>
I
am concerned that if this happens again, it won't just be caps I am
replacing -- it will be the whole kitchen or house as the result of
a VHO-triggered fire!! (That would probably top the list of
expensive mistakes I have made with this aquarium...)
<<A valid
and serious concern. You must do what makes you comfortable, but in
my experience the three-piece moisture-proof caps have always proven
safe/effective>>
Thanks!
Goldie
<<Hope this helps. EricR>>
Re: VHO End-Cap Meltdown...A Case For A Splashguard?...Or Just The
Wrong Type Of End-Cap? – 08/16/07
Thanks for such a quick
reply!
<<Quite welcome>>
These caps WERE the three-piece
waterproof caps-- they were ARO brand, meant for use with the ARO
ballast that they connected to.
<<Hmm, too bad...these end-caps
generally perform quite well. Perhaps this one was
defective/faulty...or maybe even the problem was with the bulb.
Or...maybe the nose of the cap wasn’t tightened/had worked loose
allowing moisture to enter. Admittedly, all speculation on my part>>
Maybe one just worked its way loose and water got in that way.
<<Oh! Yes... (should read ahead I suppose)>>
Not sure.
<<Nor
am I>>
Anyway, would Plexiglas overheat?
<<I have used this
for splashguards on DIY fixtures myself...should be fine. Just make
sure your fixture has adequate gaps/vents to allow trapped heat to
escape>>
I may put a splash guard on even though the light
efficiency would be reduced.
<<Okay>>
The life I have in my
tank (or had, before the lights went out...) doesn't require
extremely high light levels; it's mostly live rock, some random
inverts like mystery clams and worms (most of whom either live in
crevices or caves anyway) and a lone piece of coral whose name right
now eludes me.
<<I see>>
I should get my new caps tomorrow
(and then I'll see how many bulbs I need to order...). Hopefully
that will take care of it!
<<My fingers are crossed...!>>
Thanks again!
Goldie
<<A pleasure to assist. EricR>>
PS I
wish I could look like the Goldie in Sin City -- but with more
clothes on... :)
<<Hmm, I may have to watch that movie again...
ER>> |
Questions on
Lighting Recommendations
Bob,
<Steven Pro answering a few
questions before heading out to dinner with the family and Antoine.>
I was just about to pull the trigger on purchasing an Icecap VHO retro
kit when I saw your article recommending Duro Vita-Lites RO
fluorescents.
<A great lamp! Shame they are not made anymore. I
wonder why no one has purchased the name and lamp to remarket, similar
to Corallife now selling Tetra's Luft air pump.>
I plan to use the
48" length (T10?). I have a couple of questions:
1. Can you tell me
who makes a good electronic ballast for RO bulbs?
<I believe Icecaps
will light Normal Output (NO) lamps, too.>
2. Are there any
water-tight end caps available for these size bulbs?
<Hard end caps
are required for VHO, while you can get away with the soft variety for
NO.>
3. What is a good source to purchase these components and bulbs?
<Champion, Ahsupply.com, Marine Depot, and many more I am forgetting.
Take a look at the links page on WWM for the various e-tailers.>
4.
Will these bulbs be available long-term since Duro-Test is gone?
<I
do not believe they are available now. URI is my brand of choice.>
Thanks, Darrell Heflin
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro> VHO
Lighting
WetWebMedia Crew, I'm in the planning stage of my DIY
light project. I've decided on the IceCap 660 ballast for my 120 gallon
tank that is 24" deep. I am going to run four 48" bulbs for a total of
440w, do I need 4 end caps, or eight?
<You need eight end caps, four
pairs.>
Does IceCap make a good end cap or are there better ones?
<Most any hard end cap will work. I get whatever my vendor carries.>
Does the stock wiring harness have the capabilities to run all four
bulbs, or do I need to purchase a different one?
<If the 660 is
capable of running four lamps, the stock wiring will work.>
Thank
you.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro> End caps
Bob - I
need to get some end caps (waterproof) immediately. I currently have
the white ones that consist of three pieces that all screw together. I
can never get the bulbs to fire up without at least 2 hours of
messing around.
It is driving me crazy. Any suggestions? Thanks in
advance. Rebec
>>
Yes! And this is important... as annoying as it
is to you to have to fiddle with the end caps, it is also a hazard to
the lamps... and maybe you.
I take it these are T-12 ("regular"
fluorescents)... if you're not happy/satisfied with the fittings and
ballast system en toto, do look into the lighting systems sold by
Aquarium Systems and Energy Savers (ESU)... if only the end caps are
bothering you, maybe contact Champion Lighting
(http://www.championlighting.com/)...
And for the hot tip of the day,
before inserting your lamps, smear the pins and metal end pieces with a
thin coat of silicon o-ring grease (like for camera gear, pool
pumps...). This will help make a secure, water tight connection and ease
their removal at a later date.
Bob Fenner
|
|
