T5 Bulb Selection 6/30/09
I'm planning on purchasing a nova extreme t5 for my 36 inch 40 gallon reef... It comes w 2 10k daylight and 2 blue 460 nm.. I was wondering if it is possible to change the bulbs with different bulbs from a different name brand...
<Surely are.>
I really want to keep sps and hard corals, do you have any suggestions for the right bulbs?
<Of all the T5 bulbs I have seen the Giesemann line is by far my fave. I would opt for 3 10000k and one actinic with this setup.>
Thanks
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: T5 Bulb Selection 6/30/09
Thank you very much for the swift reply... Just to clarify.. You are saying I am able to run a different kind of t5 brand without messing with the ballasts ?
<Yes.>
And also you recommend the Giesemann line for a replacement bulb....sorry for being redundant, I just wanna make sure..
<I do personally very much like the bulbs they offer in T5.>
Thanks again...... Btw one last question, if I was to get a same type of fixture but with only two bulbs, and replace with Giesemann bulbs, am I able to raise hard corals - at least Montiporas??
<Not really, this is very low lighting for any SPS.>
Thanks very much again
<Welcome, Scott V.>

T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi :)Hope all is well with you folks :))
<Still kickin'>
My tank specs
52"x30"x18" (LxHxW)
Substrate is 4"-5" DSB so the actual depth of the tank would be 23"-24".
Further, the water column is only 21" since the top 3" is occupied by the brace.
Photosynthetic life I look to sustain (some already existing in the tank)
* Leather coral
* Zoanthids
* Mushrooms
* Palythoa
* Moon/Pineapple coral
* Xenia
* Bubble coral
* Turbinaria
* Fungia (disc corals)
* Montipora
T5 seems to be quiet popular with reefers.
I was wondering if replacing my current 2x150W MH with 4x54W T5 is a good idea.
<I would not, you are only reducing the wattage by 84 watts, and trading off excellent
lighting for corals/clams and just to save a few watts, isn't worth the change, yet alone the cost of
the new lighting at $350.00 a pop plus shipping. Would be a long time before you would recover the
savings on your utility bill to make up the cost of the new lighting.>
The fixture I had in mind is the Giesemann Razor.
http://www.reefdepot.com.sg/AddProduct.asp?ProdID=1070
I would be using 2 of these and a line of high power LEDs (DIY) in between both Razor units to get a bit of shimmer lines :)
I need to change my existing light setup due to HEAT. Room reads 40 degrees
C with existing 2 MH and the chiller.
This is causing a vicious circle where the chiller runs more to reduce the temperature and throws more heat in the air and back again. All this totals to higher electricity bills.
<Are you running cooling fans in your hood? Is necessary and will help much in keeping the tank
temperature down and reducing cycling of the chiller along with adding more life to the lamps.>
The whole point of thinking of T5 was because it will not generate heat more than standard NO tubes. Am I correct in this assumption or am I way off?
<Watts produce heat, no other way to look at it. The T5 platform just provides more
lumens per watt, but they are still throwing off 54 watts of heat per lamp.>
I plan to screw the Razors to the top of my hood and put regular 8mm glass below them.
The distance between the bulbs and the 8mm glass would be half an inch.
The glass would be left open in the ends (short sides) to allow airflow.
Each of the Razor units would have independent 8mm glass panes below so I can service them independently.
End result, the bulbs would be 4"-5" above the water column. Would this be ok considering the above livestock?
<It likely would be fine. The most light loving corals may have to be placed at the mid level of the tank.>
Do I really need to have cooling fans with the Razor units (since they are in a closed hood)?
If I need cooling fans, which option would you suggest?
* 6 CPU fans above
* 4 CPU fans above pulling OUT air and 2 CPU fans (one on either side)
PUSHING in air.
* 2 extractor fans "http://www.cataindia.com/Fan-X-Mart-Matic.php"
model X-MART MATIC 10. I would hook these up to a thermostat so they would run only when the temperature would get to 40 degrees C.
These are high powered ones that are rated [ by the company :) ] each to ventilate a 10x10 room.
The fans would be mounted on top of the hood in the middle such that they pull air from the enclosed tubes which would get air flowing through the open side.
Please can you have a look and let me know what you think.
<Ah, this tells me you are running no cooling fans, not good, and is not helping your problem. If it were me, I'd go with two Ice Cap fans and mount so the air is blowing in, providing your canopy has an open back, and most do. The Ice Cap fans come with a temperature sensor that regulates the speed of the fan in proportion to the heat it senses. Use them myself and they are virtually silent. See here.
http://www.icecapinc.com/01/fans.htm
As to your lighting idea, I think your money would be better spent investing in two Ice Cap Electronic Ballasts, and along with the fans, would be much less than the cost of the T5 system you are contemplating, and should save you some money on your utility bill. The maximum current required for this ballast to drive a 175 watt MH lamp is 1.56 amps. They will also extend your lamp life, and the lamps tend to run a little cooler with electronic ballasts. The ballast can be found at the above link.>
Cheers
<Ditto. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith

Re T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi James
Thanks for the pronto response :)
<You're welcome.>
I am running two 6 inch exhaust fans in the current setup.
They are both pulling air out.
The hood is not open from behind.
<Are you also drawing air in from the sides of the hood? You need to be able to draw air into the hood while exhausting warm air out. Simply said, the air in
the hood needs to be exchanged.>
The problem is where I live!!
The ambient temperature is 41 degrees C in the day and 35 at night.
This is summer so will drop in 2 months but only by 5 degrees respectively.
<Where do you live, in Arizona or the Gobi Desert.>
When the MH are on they heat the water and the chiller needs to cool the water and thus adds to the heat.
<I do understand.>
One can't even remain in the room to enjoy the tank :(
<Unless one wants a sauna bath.>
That is the reason why I wanted to get out of MH.
Are you saying T5 will be no different?
<Oh, there will be some difference, but I'm thinking not enough to warrant the expense. Have you considered an energy efficient air conditioner for that room?
Even keeping at 32C would be much better than 40C.>
At present I have the MH 3-4 inches above water level in a wooden canopy/ tank cover.
There are 2 exhaust fans 6" each running when the MH come on.
They are attached near the MH and the canopy top is cut to fit them.
Basically, the hole is sized to slip the fans through and they vent the air pulled.
Standard setup.
My question is, will any kind of ventilation to push air out of the room help since the ambient temperature is so high ?
<Exhausting the air to the outside is an idea running through my mind, but I think it might be difficult to make it a decent looking set-up unless aesthetics are not a problem in this room. I'm thinking along the lines of a clothes dryer set-up. I guess if you flex hosed it from the back of the canopy down and to the outside would be a fairly clean looking install.>
Please help. I can buy one light setup and want it to work.
Staying away from clams or acropora is not a problem.
Just need a solution for the heat.
<The T5 system will help, but I'm wondering how much of an effect losing +/- 90 watts would be. I'm hoping my mentor/protégé will chime in here as I am not comfortable telling someone to go out and spend near $800.00 on lighting without being sure this is going to be a solution or even a drastic
improvement to your heat problem. The least expensive fix would be venting the warm air to the outside. That I feel would help you very much.>
Cheers
<And to you my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith 

Re T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi
Sorry I missed one more question
Why do people say T5 runs cool??
<Maybe they mean the term like LL Cool J:)
Likely because it does put out more light per watt than NO/HO or VHO lamps.
I'm going to contact Steven Pro at Ice Cap lighting. A while back I was attending a Marine Conference in Detroit and was talking to Steve about the T5 system and he did make a comparison as to how many T5 lamps would be needed to obtain the same light output as a 175MH, but do you think I can remember, nope. I will send this along to him and get his input.
Wait a minute, would be much better turn around time if you did this.
Contact Steve here.
stevenpro@icecapinc.com>
Cheers
<Ditto my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith 

Opinions on lighting. Reef, t-5 lamp sel., colour   02/23/2009
Hi crew,
<Hi Marc, Mich with you tonight.>
Looking for a quick second opinion. I have a 75 gallon tank with LPSs and assorted soft coral.
<Ahh! Sounds nice! I like seeing tanks that aren't dominated by SPS's.>
I have 220 watts of t-5 lighting, right now I have one 10k, two 18k and one 6500 bulb. I'm looking at changing the bulbs, do you think the combination I have now, or 3 6500 and one actinic bulb would have more useful light for
my corals?
<I would not go with 3 6500 unless you are planning on doing a planted marine tank.>
Or the same,
<The same is fine, but if it was mine, I would go with at least 2 and perhaps 3 of the 10k. The lighting is more full spectrum and you will get better growth on your corals. I would not do the 6500 unless you have an interest in growing sea grasses or ornamental algae, and if you do, by all means go for it!>
just preference?
<Of course your own personal aesthetic plays a part as well. But I say more 10k!>
Thanks again,
<Welcome!>
Marc
<Mich>

T5 Spectrum  1/13/09
Hey guys,
<And gals of course!>
I was wondering what is the best bulb combination for growth and aesthetics.
<Depends on what you want aesthetically!>
I have a 55 gal aquarium with approximately 50 pounds of rock. I am running the current nova extreme 48 inch t-5 with four bulbs, 2 10,000k, and 2 actinics totaling 216 watts. I have xenias, bubble coral, green open brain, daisy clove polyps, yellow polyps, green star polyps, various mushrooms, button polyps, and a frog spawn. Water parameters are all good and tank has been running about 8 months. Everything is doing well but not spreading too much. I was just wondering if the lighting was too blue and a different combination of bulbs would help growth.
<Well the two 10000K bulbs are not too intensive. You could swap one of the actinics out for another 10000K, giving your corals more usable light. Keep the actinic you will have left in the front and you will notice little difference in the look of your tank.>
Thanks,
Doug
<Welcome, Scott V.>

T5 lighting   10/20/08
Hi guys. Ben from Sydney Australia here.
<Hello Ben.>
Just a quick question. I have a 120 cm tank by 60cm by 60cm (115 gal). Complete with large sump and refugium and octopus skimmer all running nicely. It houses a few LPS corals. Now at the moment I have a row of 4 54 watt 120cm T5 tubes over it, all 4 tubes are 10000k. I also have 2 36 watt T8 actinic tubes on top also. Now I’ve gone ahead and ordered my self another row of 4 54 watt T5s. And I also ordered 8 54 watt T5 20000k tubes. Now my idea is to run 4 10000k and 4 20000k tubes amongst each other and the 2 36watt actinics. As I will have spare tubes because my new T5s also come with 4 10000k tubes already in it.
<Okay.>
Now I’ve searched and can’t find too much regarding my configuration of both 20000k and 10000k. So I’m just interested on your opinion of what you would do if you were me with this configuration?
<I would try what you have planned. You may find it too blue, if so you can always swap a 20000K or two for a 10000K.>
And do you think my plan is good for LPS coral growth? Whilst also giving a nice over all tank look.
<Yes, should be.>
Thanks guys and really appreciate your comments on this one.
Ben Smith
<Welcome, Scott V.>

T5HO Lighting confusion... I really need some help. 10/19/08
Hey guys,
<Ivan.>
I have exhausted every search term I could think of trying to find the answer to T5 lighting. I’ve found a lot of information and I’ve learned a lot, but I’ve also in the process found a lot of conflicting information. It seems that no matter how many people you talk to or how many LFSs you go to everyone has something different to say based on their experiences.
<As with every other aspect of aquariums…and life. >
What I need help with is this. I have an 80gal “reef” aquarium. (I put reef in quotes because I can’t seem to get it to even resemble a reef in the slightest) I installed a Current USA Nova Extreme 48” T5 retro @ 54Watts x 4 using 1(6700K), 1(18000K), 1(420nm) and 1(460nm)
Water param.s:
Tank life = 1 year old
Temp = 78 – 79
PH = 8.4
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 0
Specific Gravity = 1.026
I use Tropic Marin mix that I buy from my LFS for 10% weekly water changes, 30gal sump with 2 x Mag Drive 1200 pumping up to 4 returns and using a Hydor to create extra circulation in the tank. Also have a Coral-life Protein Skimmer in the sump. Livestock (1 blue tang, 1 Sailfin tang, 1 Tomini tang, 2 Percs, 1 Mono, 2 Cleaner shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, 1 Crocea Clam, 1 green BTA, 1 ribbon eel in the sump because he ate all my original Percs( a whole nother story)
<This is severely overstocked, incompatible..>
My problem is I can’t keep any kind of coral alive. Pagoda (comes out more with less light), Xenia(never grows and melts after a few months), Zoas, Leathers(wilt), Colt coral(Wilt), frogspawn(dissolve), hammer(dissolve), star polyps(diminished on the top of their rock and started growing on the underside away from light).
Now when I try talking to my LFSs, one said that my 6700K bulb is not a good spectrum and too bright for corals.
<It is good, perhaps the best bar aesthetics.>
But when I search online I find people saying that 6700K is ok. Others I find say it’s better to have 6700K to 10000K versus the 18000K that I have because the 18K is too close to the blue spectrum and does not produce enough usable light along with the 2 actinics that I have.
<True, the 6500 to 10000K is better from a coral heath POV.>
Is there any validity to either of these theories?
<Yes.>
One of my LFSs says all my equipment is perfectly fine and that maybe I have traces of copper or something else toxic to corals. I never use copper for anything so I doubt that is the culprit.
<Have you tested for this? Unless you have used copper, I doubt this. Some copper is always around, it takes an artificially raised level to cause issues. Buy a test kit or have one of them test for you.>
He also said I could try turning off my skimmer as it may be removing a lot of the elements needed for coral growth.
<Some corals appreciate “dirty” water, but I do not think it is the case here.>
I don’t know what to do anymore. I’ve spent so much money and so much time and I really want to make this work, but I’m getting to the end of my rope. Any thoughts or advice or ANYTHING!!! J Please help. I hope I’ve given you enough information to at least give me something. Thank you in advance for any assistance.
<You do not have enough light, these bulbs do need to be replaced with a lower K spectrum bulb to give your photosynthetic livestock what they need….your Crocea and BTA will follow suit in time. Also, your corals have likely been affected by allelopathy with the mix listed. Research on the needs and compatibility of what you have and add in the future is strongly advised.>
Ivan
<Scott V.>

Types of T5 lighting bulbs – 09/08/08
I just recently received my Nova Extreme 8x54 lighting fixture, and am impressed with its lighting capabilities. However, upon looking at the Drs. Foster and Smith website, (the page address is
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/pet_supplies.cfm?c=3578+3733+13821) I
realized that there are several types and manufacturers of T5 bulbs, their selection is probably far from complete in both size and manufacturer.
<Mmm, yes>
My tank is 120 gallons (24" tall), and I would like to be able to keep SPS, clams, etc.
<Mmm, the SPS likely placed "higher up", and some species of Tridacnids would go here>
The fixture comes with four 10,000 K. daylight bulbs, as well as four 460nm actinic tubes. Would I be better served by replacing these lights with, say for example, 12,000 K. Actinic white (although I do like the blue color), or T5 HO Reef White?
<IMO/E, yes... I would switch out at least two of the actinics for the "white" lamps>
I am a little confused regarding the choices, but have read that the lights supplied with the Nova Extreme fixture leave something to be desired. What brands are considered to be top choice for T5 bulbs?
<Mmm, I know naught... and refer you to the better/more popular bulletin boards, e.g. Aquarium Frontiers, Reefs.org (NOT ReefCentral as they censor, even ban such folks for product discussion) for broader hobbyist/actual user input>
As always, I welcome your opinion and advice on this matter.
Regards,
Jeffrey
<Mmm, perhaps James Fatheree, Sanjay Joshi and Dana Riddle's names could be searched as well for information here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Types of T5 lighting bulbs  9/10/08
In retrospect, while I have the opportunity to make the exchange, would I be better served in general by purchasing the 48" Outer Orbit 150 W x 2 halide/T5 actinic fixture?
<Mmmm>
Would the halide lighting give me more diversity as to what I will be able to keep without being so particular about placement?
<Yes... for a 120 gal. 2' deep tank...>
150 Watt halide bulbs will not give me as much difficulty with problems of heat, but will probably give me more photosynthetic benefit than the T5's, correct me please if I am wrong.
<I would switch out at least one of the actinics myself... See WWM re... BobF>