|
| |
|
FAQs on Banner Butterflyfishes Selection
Related Articles: Heniochus Butterflyfishes,
Related FAQs: Banner
Butterflyfishes, Heniochus
Identification, Heniochus Behavior,
Heniochus Compatibility,
Heniochus Systems, Heniochus Feeding,
Heniochus Disease,
Heniochus Reproduction,
Chaetodonts:
Butterflyfish Identification, Butterflyfish
Behavior, Butterflyfish
Compatibility, Butterflyfish
Selection, Butterflyfish
Systems, Butterflyfish
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Butterflyfish Disease,
Henis are best kept with easygoing tankmates. |
|
Heniochus problems 7/9/08
Dear Crew;
i have been reading your site for the past few months now and even though i
consider myself an expert in the keeping of fish i thoroughly enjoy reading your
articles.?
<Me too>
Well i do have one question though and it pertains to the Heniochus species of
marine butterflies.?
<?>?>
While i have no problems with other members of the family i cannot keep
Heniochus acuminatus for anything and i am told that they are one of the
easier member of the family to keep.?
<Can be>
The last set of three that i purchased only made it three days.?
<Mmmm>
I purchased three medium fish approx 3-4 inches long and placed them in my
quarantine tank.
All was well, they got along great, were very active and ate well.? I fed them
mysis shrimp, and frozen algae and they took
both with no problems, that night i fed them oc pellets soaked in SeaChem
vitality and again they ate like champs.? The next
morning one of the three was not active and hanging out near the tank bottom, i
looked him over and could not find any
problems with the fish.? He did however take some mysis shrimp as did they other
two.? By the next morning the fish was
dead and the other two did the same thing as the dead one hanging out near the
bottom and not being active as before. Both were dead on the third morning.? Now
the particulars, i did a freshwater dip on all three with HydroPlex, at
different times.? They had no visible signs of parasites or damage on their body
and acted great, i treated the tank for bacteria once the second two showed
symptoms, i used ruby reef products for that as well.? Water quality was 8.3 ph,
0 ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.? I keep live rock in the quarantine tank and
performed a water change before treating.? What is the problem? oh yea the
quarantine tank is a 56 gal and had no other inhabitants except for snails and a
few hermits.? i have never seen a fish decay so quickly from being active and
eating to death as what happened to these three.? Am i overlooking something?
thanks in advance for you answer
<I don't think that these losses have anything to do with you, your efforts...
But cumulative stress, challenges of capture, holding, and shipping of these
specimens. I would try again... perhaps making sure the new trials had some time
to 'rest up' at your dealers for a good two-three weeks before continuing on to
your protocol listed above. I have dealt with this species on many occasions...
as a collector, wholesaler/transhipper, retailer... and it is one of the several
species that "comes in good" or not... with little to do to save it from dying
anomalously. Bob Fenner>
Grouping requirements of H.
acuminatus – 04/1/08
Hello to whomever is answering today,
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
I am seeking your advice on adding a Heniochus acuminatus, aka Black and White
Bannerfish for those reading FAQs. I've read all articles and FAQs on these fish
but am still unsure about grouping. I've read that the H. diphreutes is the one
that is a schooling fish. However, most online and local sellers list the H.
acuminatus for sale, saying they do better in a pair or group.
<<This is a common observation>>
Is it required that this fish be kept in pairs or more, or will just one H.
acuminatus be happy?
<<As with other schooling fish, they will always be more active when in pairs or
more>>
My tank is just 92 gallons and I don't want to put 2 in my tank and risk
overcrowding if one will be happy by himself (if there is room for one at all),
since they do grow to a decent size.
<<About 10 inches>>
I currently have 3 bluegreen chromis, 2 b/w aquacultured ocellaris clowns, and
1 Cryptocentrus leptocephalus (Pink and Blue Spot Watchman Goby). I would like
to also add 1 Six Line Wrasse, 1 Coral Beauty and a Scopas Tang (last).
<<As it stands, room only for one in my opinion, however, I would not suggest
adding a single>>
So, Would there be room also for a H. acuminatus and are they required to be in
pairs, or is that just H. diphreutes?
<<As above, a pair should be added>>
Thank you so much for your opinion/advice on adding this fish.
April
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Re: Grouping requirements of
H. acuminatus 04/01/2008
Thank you for the response Andrew. I will leave out the H. Acuminatus since
there is not room for two.
<<A wise decision indeed>>
I have another question. (I'm sure I could come up with more but will leave it
to one!) It is actually the Longnose
Butterfly, Forcipiger flavissimus, that we were primarily interested in. I've
read tons on them and understand they
are relatively hardy once acclimated. I've had two die, however, and have never
had a fish loss prior to these two
once they were acclimated. The first one was a heater malfunction. The second
one got ich really bad, very quickly
and died. I'm guessing my problem is that my QT tank is only 10 gallons. On one
of the FAQ pages I read someone's opinion
was to do a freshwater dip (with Methylene? Malachite?) and place it in the
main tank because that size QT would
stress them out too much. Then also, someone else said no, definitely QT the
fish. So I'm unsure of what to do. I generally Qt all fish for 4 weeks, longer
if they have a problem, but am having a difficult time with the Longnose
Butterfly. I would like this to be my large fish for the tank and will leave out
others in order to have one I just can't stand the thought of having another one
die. So, what is your opinion, FW dip and place in main tank? Or Run the full 4
week QT in a 10gallon tank? Thank you so much!!*~*April*~*
<<FW dip and a 4 week QT in the 10g, certainly. Monitor closely>>
<<Regards. A Nixon>>
|
Heniochus Are Happening!
Can you keep two black and white Heniochus that are not a pair in the same
tank? Are these fish hardy? I am not experienced with these type of fish so I don't
know much about them. Thank you!
<Heniochus are better kept in odd numbered lots (3,5,etc.). They do tend to
form a "social hierarchy" in a captive system, so two may be a
problem, with one individual dominating the other. These are quite hardy in
captivity, and feed readily on a variety of foods. They do need a lot of space
to swim, however, as they can reach almost 8 inches in length. Do check the
wetwebmedia.com site for more information on this species. Good luck! Regards,
Scott F.>
Heniochus chrysostomus
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have question concerning the genus Heniochus, specifically Heniochus chrysostomus. In reading the information on the site about
Heniochus under the behavior section, it said they are found in pairs to shoals of hundreds and should not be kept
solitarily.
<H. chrysostomus is almost always found in pairs... H. acuminatus and H. diphreutes (which I saw today diving off of Hawai'i) are the species that mainly occur in shoals>
In dealers stores for freshwater tetras, they say to have at least 3-6, but in actuality, you should have many more I believe.
<I agree with you>
What would be the lowest number of chrysostomus that would sufficiently promote a comfortable environment for them. The tank size would be 750 gallons.
<Very nice. A couple, as in just two will be fine>
Thank you for time and knowledge!! Corey
<And you for your caring. Bob Fenner>
Heniochus diphreutes
Greetings!
<Salutem dicit>
I have a quick question for you; I'm planning a new system, a 75gallon AGA
tank. I would very much like to keep a small school of Heniochus
diphreutes. Would this be appropriate in a tank of this size? How many
would be feasible, if any?
<Actually a 75 gallon is a bit small for any more than about two of these fish
at adult size, and they are almost always collected/available as mediums plus.
Two will do though and allow you to have maybe one more fish species of about
the same size. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your time!
John
Re: Heniochus diphreutes
Thanks for the quick response!
<Welcome>
2 would not make too much of an interesting display. What other schooling
fish could you recommend; ideally id like to have 7 or so. Chromis are
always popular, and I hear that some cardinals school as well.
<Some species do... not all. The Chromis or other damsels are good choices, as
are a few of the hardier, available Fancy Basses ("Anthias")...>
Also, other
tank inhabitants include a pearly Jawfish and two false clowns.
Thanks for your time!
John
<Glad to share John. Do give a read over the marine livestock selection FAQs
archived on www.WetWebMedia.com for much more input re your possibilities here.
Bob Fenner>
H. acuminatus, sel. dis. 4/14/06
Hi Bob,
<Joseph>
I have a quick question on my 2 newly acquired H. acuminatus which I bought 2
weeks ago. I picked them up from my LFS as soon as they were delivered
from a wholesaler.
<Mmm, generally better to leave most all marines at a dealers a week or more...
with deposit if you "must have them"...>
They are about 3 inches in size and both looked healthy.
They have been in quarantine since then and during that time I have noticed that
one of them absolutely loves every food I give it: brine shrimp with
Spirulina, sea veggies, flakes, tiny pieces of shrimp and squid, and Nori
seaweed. This one has maintained a healthy weight. The other fish, however,
will only eat the Nori seaweed and spits out everything else. I would like it to
start eating some fleshy foods. I have noticed that this fish has
slightly lost a bit of weight. Other than this both fish look healthy and very
happy.
My question is whether I should be concerned about this fish's eating habits
ahead of it's release into the display tank next week?
<Ummm, a tough one... w/o seeing the actual specimen. But I would very likely
risk moving this/these "Heni's" in the hopes of furthering the ones appetite...
and not worry re the small risk in disease transmission here>
By the way, this is the first time I have used a quarantine tank and I now
appreciate the benefits it gives to us in not only preventing disease, but
allowing us to observe the new animals in a much more tightly controlled
environment.
<Ah, bingo!>
It makes it so much easier to acclimate the fish to the water chemistry and
especially to new foods, which would be a lot trickier in the
display tank (i.e. size, competitors etc.). Thanks for the informative articles
on this topic!
Thanks in advance,
Joe
<Welcome Joe. Bob Fenner>
Heniochus in the Reef, and QT Clarification - 04/19/06
Dear WWM Crew:
<Hi Sam.>
I really appreciate what you do to promote the hobby and to keep the world happy
and healthy!
<You are welcome and thank you for the compliments my friend.>
I have been a good WWM user for months now,
<Awesome!>
totally self-sufficient and amazed by how many times you've had just the right
answers ready and waiting.
<Great.>
Through all of my research I put together a nice 75 gallon reef with fuge, sump,
all that good stuff.
<Sounds fun.>
The tank is very stable with coral, live sand, live rock, cleanup crew--even a
Borneman anemone that hitchhiked on a frag.
<Cool.>
Now I'm finally permitting myself to begin thinking about fish.
<I admire your patience.>
A local reefer told me very matter of factly that the ultimate fish to get would
be a Heniochus diphreutes (pennant banner butterflyfish).
<Well they aren’t my favorite by any means, but they are attractive and a much
better alternative to those interested in Moorish Idols.>
I have to agree that this is a spectacularly beautiful fish, but I hear mixed
reviews as to whether they'd be reef safe (personality driven?)
<My experience is that they are quite safe with most stony corals (SPS) but can
pick at easier (meatier) targets such as Zoanthus. But I have seen them exist
happily and problem reef in many a reef tanks, but I still think they are a
slight risk.>
and whether one would be happy in a 75.
<Well that would be the BARE minimum in my opinion for one of these specimens.>
What's the verdict on this from your perspective?
<See above.>
Second, as a truly conscientious aquarist, I am going to setup a QT.
<I’m very glad to hear this.>
Assuming I can have a Heniochus diphreutes, what is the minimum size you
recommend for a QT? Would a 20 gallon work for this?
<Yes depending on the size of the specimen in question.>
And how does one cycle the QT with an HOB filter to prepare for the fish?
Should I run it first in my sump for a few weeks? If you plopped it in there, I
assume the ammonia would quickly spike. You've never
sufficiently answered how one gets a QT ready for a new occupant. Please
enlighten me!
<Please read this article by past-crew member Steven Pro, it isn’t found on WWM
but I like it A LOT!:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.php .>
Again, thanks for all the hard work and the brilliant answers!
<Quite welcome, anytime.>
Sam
<Adam J.>
| |
|
