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FAQs on Iodine Use, Supplements 2

Related Articles: Iodine in Marine Aquarium Systems by Marco Lichtenberger, Marine System Additives

Related FAQs:   Iodine 1, & FAQs on Iodine: Rationale/Use, Iodine Testing/Test Kits, Sources of Iodine/Supplements, Dosing, Interactions, Troubleshooting/Fixing, & General Supplements, Calcium

How and what they dose at the world's largest reef system (CAS, Steinhart Aq. 2012)

Freshwater dipping new corals & coral frags    3/16/14
I have looked through Wet Web Media and have not been able to find a complete answer to why dipping corals and frags in freshwater (RO/DI) is not recommended.
<Too much stress; not worth it in trade-off of what one might get in terms of lessening pests, parasites. Some slightly lower spg (a thousandth or two) with the addition of iodide/ate, and possibly a simple sugar (glucose or such... a hexose or pentose) IS>
 I have seen statements that say to not do it on Wet Web Media, but I would like to know the science behind the why.
<How much? Have you considered the use of a reference librarian... help w/ a computer search bibliography? There's bits and pieces re these on WWM>
Thank you for your time!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

iodide dip/bath, for Scleractinians    7/11/12
Hello Bob,
I ran out of Seachem Iodine and LFS has no more so I picked up a bottle of Brightwell Aquatics Lugol's solution, upon reading I see that the concentration is 3750mg/oz 126,803 ppm (!!) and each drop will increase iodine by 1,7ppm / gallon. If I want to make a dip/bath for helping coral to recover (stopping RTN and STN) How many drops should I add to how much water? I don't want to overdose as it's a very high concentration.
thanks in advance :D
<Mmm, yes; and though I'm not a giant fan of this format of iodine and potassium iodide... as a supplement, it can/will work for this disinfectant purpose. IF this were a commercial setting, I'd not worry re much at all re actual dosing (in practice I/we really just "squirt it in the transit volume/acclimation container", likely w/ a bucket of freshwater (to lower spg, increase uptake), and a scoop of a simple (hexose) sugar, like glucose... For home hobbyists, I might do something similar, but a short time exposure to some elevated level of Lugol's won't be harmful... I'd up the dosage to 3-5 drops per gallon for a several minute bath. Bob Fenner>

Marco... would you consider penning an article for pay on Iodine/ide/ate use in marine systems?   1/14/10
Your article on HPO4 sets the voice, standard. What say you?
Bob F
<Thank you very much and no problem, will do. Marco.>
<Ah, good. BobF>

Iodate 1/14/10
Hello crew,
<Hi Laurie>
I've referred to your site many many times over the past years and thank you for the valuable information.
I have a mature, five-year old saltwater tank. I've just recently upgraded my lighting, enabling me to now support corals.
Since I have added the corals, I thought it would be wise to check on the iodide level, wondering if I'd need to increase iodide supplementation. (I was adding 5 ml Seachem Iodide on even days to my 110 gallon tank, which
resulted in .06 ppm iodide - perfect, right?)
<Yes... but I would add on a punctuated basis... perhaps once a week after your water change regimen>
I couldn't get a valid reading from my Seachem test kit, so I supposed that it had probably expired.
While shopping for a new kit, I ran across Salifert's version which tests for iodide, iodine, and iodate. I ordered this one, and ran my first test.
The good news is that I got the same .06 iodide reading, but the bad news (I think) is that I got an off-the-charts iodate reading (>.2 ppm).
<Happens... and one reason I encourage only periodic dosing of I2>
I've read and re-read the information provided with the test kit regarding iodide and iodate levels, but I can't seem to find a definitive answer on what a high iodate reading really means, and which of these elements (iodide, iodine, and iodate) our marine specimens actually use. Salifert's web site does not have any additional information.
<Mmm, the valence state of Iodine changes to extents with local chemistry, physical properties of the water; but often it is the initial preponderance of one or t'other that results in such tests>
There is one piece of interesting information in the test kit instructions, under Interferences:
"The presence of strong reducing substances
<Mmm, yes... ORP, RedOx Potential... alters the valence state...>
such as ascorbic acid will also give a false value. Some supplements contain ascorbic acid."
<Mmm... I would not have put this statement in a circular... No supplement has this much Vitamin C... This information is spurious, unnecessary>
More on this in a moment...
So, my question is, what do I really need to be testing (iodide or iodate) and is this high level of iodate toxic?
<Really not generally an issue... Unless one is "really pouring it in" in concentrated doses... Again, I would just do your "normal dosing" once a week. Am sorry to state that I/we/WWM has not produced a comprehensive set
of declarative statements (an article) re Iodine/ide/ate and its practical use. The collection of FAQs re can be accessed here: http://wetwebmedia.com/ioddosingf.htm
and the linked files above.>
I perform 10% water changes biweekly (sometimes 5% weekly) along with cleaning or changing the filter media (paper and carbon).
<The carbon will remove...>
I recently switched to Red Sea Pro salt, which greatly increased the magnesium level (~1200 ppm now; was ~900 before), but do add a small amount of mg and sr twice a week (Seachem Reef Advantage). I supplement with
Seachem Reef Plus (Amino Acids and Vitamins) twice a week.
<Good products and good to stay with one manufacturer's line>
BTW - the first ingredient listed is ascorbic acid. And, as mentioned, add 5 ml of Seachem Iodide every other day. I do not need to add calcium - that usually tests between 450 - 500 ppm.
<I'd let slip into the 300's ppm range>
pH is 8.4; carbonate hardness is 10 dKH.
All of the coral look really healthy. For example, Zoanthid polyps are all fully opened; xenia is growing very quickly and spreading up the live rock.
<Good. A much better guide/test than any colorimetric assay>
Thanks for your help. I'll be very interested in your thoughts about this.
Best regards,
Laurie O.
<Sorry to be so scant here. I am not trying to be disingenuous, but I want to post "something" to the general public that is simple, straight-forward, applicable... and w/o potential dire consequence. Bob Fenner>

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