|
| |
|
FAQs about Live Sand 3 Related Articles: Live Sand, Marine
Substrates, Deep Sand Beds,
Reef
Systems, Refugiums,
Related FAQs: Live Sand 1,
Live Sand 2, Identification,
Selection/DIY,
Systems/Placement, Biota,
Maintenance, Deep
Sand Beds, DSBs 2, DSBs
3, DSBs 4, DSBs 5,
DSBs 6,
DSBs 7, & FAQs on: Deep Sand Beds, Rationale/Use,
Dangers,
Physical Make-Up, Biological Make-Up,
Size, Location,
Depth, Conversion
to/from, Maintenance/Replacing/Adding To,
& Sumps,
Refugiums, Live
Rock, Calcium, FAQs 1,
Lysmata amboinensis (De Man 1888), the Indo-Pacific
White-Striped Cleaner Shrimp or Ambon Shrimp.
|
 |
Avoiding Die off when adding
new Sand 5/13/08
Hi Crew!
<Hello!>
I wrote several weeks ago, and got some great advice regarding my cycling tank.
The great news is that I've completely rid myself of ammonia and nitrite
problems, thanks to your help!
<Great to hear!>
My 20g tank is now home to a yellow-tailed Damsel, four crimson hermits, two
Nassarius snails, and several stowaway bristleworms that creep my wife out. All
are stable, eating properly, molting (where appropriate :) ), and generally
appear to be in good health.
<Sounds good, although four hermits will likely dwindle down/thin themselves out
in a 20 gallon.>
One outstanding issue I've got is that my nitrates just won't go away. I do
weekly 30-40% water changes, and they're still not where I want them to be, so I
figured that perhaps the "D" in my DSB isn't technically deep enough to get the
nitrate reduction cycle going. I was hoping that I could wing it with a 3 inch,
but considering I've still got a nitrate problem, it's obviously not sufficient.
<No, you will need 4-5” for NNR action to occur. Have you tested your makeup
water for nitrate? Water changes of this magnitude should have a positive impact
regarding nitrate.>
I picked up a big bag of Old Castle sand from Home Depot, but would like your
advice regarding die off of the current organisms in my substrate. They're
definitely there, as I see various eyes/appendages/tentacles pop out of the sand
when I turn my lighting off. I need to avoid any kind of significant die-off
from my current micro and macro substrate biota, as a stinky aquarium would
definitely hurt my chances with the wife of moving out of this tiny tank and
into a proper 75-100 gallon.
<Do keep her happy!>
I have read that various crew members recommend adding half an inch per week to
the substrate to build it up, but as I said before, die-off is a huge
consideration in my case. I'm afraid that "mixing" the new sand in with the
current bed would stir up all sorts of nitrite or ammonia problems,
<Not unless you have detritus accumulated within the sand bed, a sign of other
issues.>
and am also concerned that simply plopping on a half-inch of sand on the entire
bed would kill the aerobic micro-thingies living in the top few centimeters of
my substrate.
<Adding a half-inch at once will not be a problem. If this does worry you just
add it in smaller, perhaps quarter inch intervals. Just spread each addition a
couple days apart and you will be fine.>
Can you give any tips on transferring the new sand onto my current bed that will
minimize (negate?) die-off?
<Advised above.>
I'm paranoid about this after all the die-off I experienced when transplanting
my live sand from another tank initially.
<Different issue, you will not need to disturb your sandbed to do this, you just
don’t want to add so much at once as to smother your current top, aerobic,
layer.>
I would love to install a sump, but I just can't do it with the current tank. I
really want to get the nitrate/water quality issue under control, as I've
started to get bitten by the "coral keeping" bug every time I go in the LFS and
see their starter reef displays, despite my best intentions to be FOWLR forever.
I haven't purchased any, but would like to head that direction after six months
of optimal tank conditions (and lots of reading on WWM).
<A natural evolution into reefs! The bug is hard to shake. Keep reading and you
will be prepared.>
Thanks in advance!
DS
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>
|
Dry Live Sand 4/5/08
Hi I have a question regarding DSB's I currently have two inches of
aragonite sand and want to seed it with live sand, my LFS told me to use pink
live sand (not really pink just called that) which is the type they claim to use
on their tanks which look great.
<OK>
My only problem with this is that the sand is shipped like aragonite sand in
that it is dry in a plastic bag. I was wondering if dry live sand is just a scam
or if the microfauna is able to live dry?
<There will be absolutely no seeding benefit from this sand, and for that matter
very little from water packed sand in a bag. The best thing you can do to seed
your system is to talk someone with an existing tank into a cup of their sand or
to simply add live rock to the system. Regards, Scott V. >
Re: Dry Live Sand 4/7/08
This question is for Scott V.
<Hello, with you.>
I Recently asked if dry live sand is at all reliable as a live sand and upon
further research found a company that sells wet live sand by the pound which is
perfect for me because I only need about 7 pounds to seed my aragonite sand.
They claim that there live sand has lots off little pods, worms and such but I
wanted to ask if these beneficial beasties would survive the collection/shipping
process and make it to my tank. Thanks and I will try to procure a cup of live
sand from an aged tank!
<True wet live sand will be of some benefit, much of the life in it will survive
shipping. Although simply seeding from another tank or live rock is the easiest
and most cost effective. Welcome, enjoy the new tank, Scott V.> |
Live sand procurement 10/8/06
Hello all, let me first say thanks for all of the info and help you have given
me in the proper set up, stocking and maintenance of my marine aquarium, I
couldn't have done it without you! I read approx 2-3 hrs each day on WWM, and I
enjoy every minute. I have a question regarding live sand in which I hope you
can be of assistance. I live in San Antonio, TX, and am very close to the Texas
gulf coast. Both of my marine tanks (55 and a 30 gal) have been set up with live
rock and aragonite substrate (consisting of crushed Florida coral in the 55, and
aragonite sand -not "sugar fine" in the 30). The 30 gal is just cycled at approx
6 weeks, the 55 about 4 months old. Parameters in the tanks are all normal (0ppm
of ammonia, nitrates, nitrites and phosphates, calcium levels are strong at
450-500, and ph is a constant 8.2), the 55 has only 1 maroon clown, 1 yellow
tang and 1 lawnmower blenny with a small clean up crew consisting of snails and
such, the 30 is not stocked with anything just yet. Both tanks run Emperor hang
on filters with protein skimmers that achieve a good amount of skimmate every
day, water turnover is approx. 15 times per hour, both run MH lighting of about
5w per gallon. I would eventually like to put some corals, clams etc... in both
tanks. I am considering replacing some of the substrate with live sand, and I am
considering harvesting it myself from the gulf coast. My question is.... Is the
sand at the coast actually considered live sand? Can this be used? It is much
cheaper and also more enjoyable for me to drive a couple of hours to collect
enough sand, than it is to purchase 100lbs and have it shipped. What are the
pros and cons to my idea, and should I even consider it given my current tank
parameters? Also, if I do replace the substrate with live sand, what potential
damage might occur in my ecosystem? I have read that it could be a disaster
(fish kill off from anaerobic activity?) Any suggestions would be
helpful.....Erick.
<<Erick: Anytime you disturb a sandbed in a move, you run a high risk of
transferring sickness and disease to the fish (I found out the hard way when I
moved a tank that had been established over 2 years). Assuming you could find a
legal place to collect the sand, introducing it to your tanks would likely cause
a new cycle and could introduce harmful critters, and pollutants, to your
system. While sugar fine aragonite is the current gold standard for deep sand
beds, there are many people who do not use it and have successful tanks. For
example, I once was so freaked about crushed coral causing my nitrates to go up
that I pulled it out of an established tank and replaced it with brand new
sand. I was shocked to find out after all that trouble that the nitrate level
stayed the same! Before that experience, I would have never expected those
results based on everything I've read. At this point, I think pulling sand from
the coast will be more trouble for you than it's worth. If you want more
diversity you can ask for a cup of sand from a fellow reefer. Best of luck,
Roy>>
Redoing Substrates 9/13/06
To All:
<Hi>
I'm getting ready to redo my substrates in my 90 gal reef tank. I
have had problems in the past with nitrates sometimes high but can
be controlled with water changes. <Best method> Currently I have a 5
inch crushed coral bed with underwater filter powered by one 110 and
a 70 aqua clear power head on each corner. along with a canister
filter and skimmer). <What we call a nitrate factory.> UG filters
are not used much anymore for this reason, among others.> After
reading endless amount of info on your site I just wanted your
opinion on what would be the best substrates for me to use. I would
like to stick with a substrates for some of the goby's and other
creatures that enjoy digging. <I like using substrates in the main
tank.> I was thinking of going with 3 to 4 inches of live sand.
<Good, sugar fine is best.>
I have 75lbs of live rock that I use for my reef too. Should I use
underwater filter or just place the sand on the bottom?? <Sand on
the bottom, the UG filter will not work with sand.> And should it be
mixed with crushed coral or something else?? <Nope, just sand.> This
seems to be the most difficult question to come up with an answer
for. There is so many ways to setup a substrates. <Many different
ideas out there, I like a simple 3-4 inch thick layer of sugar fine
sand.> I'm sticking with mostly soft corals since I currently don't
have a metal halide light.
<Sounds good.>
Thanks,
J.R.
<Anytime>
<Chris>
Quarantine For Live Sand? - 8/10/2006
Hello WWM Crew,
<Scott F. here today!>
With the help of an extraordinary amount of excellent input from your website, I
am nearly done putting together a new 135 gallon system to upgrade my old 40
gallon hex tank.
<Sounds exciting>
A quick summary of the new system is as follows,
135 gallon (72x18x24") with two 100% overflows and Ecosystem 3616 mud sump.
EuroReef CS 135 Protein Skimmer
Four 160 W AquaSun VHO's (with provisions to add three 14K 150 W HQI pendants
later).
Recirculation rate is roughly 2600 GPH (half through mud sump and half through
separate closed loop).
<Nice equipment/system>
My plan for the tank is to move over current inhabitants of the 40 gallon
(Flametail Blenny, Fourline Wrasse, Neon Goby, Purple Firefish, Diadema, two
Cleaner Shrimp, Peppermint Shrimp, some Zoanthids and Star Polyps) along with
its live rock (about 60 lbs) then gradually add fresh (cured) live rock over
time as additional critters - soft corals, fish and invertebrates - are added to
the system.
<This is a good way to stock...do it gradually.>
I don't plan to move the existing coral gravel substrate (roughly 5 mm dia.), as
I have now learned that a finer sand (say 1-2 mm) is a better choice. My current
thinking is to keep the sand bed to less than 1" thick (I'll consider adding a
DSB later if the tank "grows" into a full blown SPS reef tank over the next few
years).
<No problem. Just keep the shallow sandbed clean.>
My question is about the risk/rewards of using "live sand" (say from Fiji
through Blue Zoo Aquatics) versus a sterile aragonite mix "off the shelf". It
would appear that the "pro's" of using the live sand would be the additional
microfauna that would inoculate the system and provide a more natural system and
food source. But my main concern is for the health of my fish (vis-a-vis the
potential pathogens that may exist in the live sand mix).
<Well, there certainly is a risk involved in using anything "live" in your tank.
If it's live sand collected from a reef, I suppose I might actually be more
comfortable than if it was from a store or other established aquarium. On the
other hand, if you do get some live sand, you don't need all that much to
inoculate your system.>
Would you kindly advise your opinion - is there a significant risk of Ich/Velvet
infection with live sand?
<Again, I feel a greater risk of exposure to potential pathogens exists in a
system using live sand from an aquarium with fishes.>
Would the sand/mud develop a healthy level of microfauna over time anyway (by
the addition of cured live rock) with the sterile mix?
<Absolutely.>
Would there be any benefit to putting live sand in quarantine (for say 6 weeks)
before introducing to an existing display?
<If you could do that, this would be the best way to assure as pathogen-free an
environment as possible.>
I have dealt with "the heartbreak of Ich" in the past and want to do everything
possible to avoid it during this upcoming transition - your thoughts are
sincerely appreciated.
Scott
<I certainly think that you're on the right track, Scott! Best of luck with your
new system! Regards, Scott F.>
Do you have to replace live sand every so often? Yep 7/19/06
I have a 4 year old 55 gal saltwater tank with 75 lbs of live rock, 3" of
Arag-live Special grade sand and varies corals and anemones.
<... plural?>
I have been having a problem with my nitrate levels and noticed there is a lot
of tube like worms in the sand. The tubes are thin and covered with sand and
they have little worms that come out from the sand. When you move the sand you
can see there tubes that are heavily embedded into the sand.
<Beneficial mostly>
I talked with my local fish guy and he said you should replace your substrate
ever 4 years? Is this true?
<Mmm, better to add to, replace a part after a year and a quarter or so... Ten,
twenty percent every six months... to provide soluble components, volume...>
I read the back of the Arag-live sand and it said it never needs replacement.
<Mmm, better to replace, add to on a regular basis... Most captive systems
become overly "unbalanced" chemically, stagnant in terms of bio-diversity,
abundance... the changing, adding of substrates helps forestall these
tendencies>
I was thinking about moving the live rock around and filtering the sand
underneath it to clean it up a little. What do you suggest?
<Reading:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/livesand.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Donovan Flores
Adding live sand - 05/29/06
Hi crew,
<Hi>
I have a 90 gallon FOWLR with crushed coral at the moment. I'm
interested in housing Jawfish (Yellowhead) and wrasses (red Coris) and realize
that they need a sandy substrate. My CC depth is ~1.5" now, and my plan was to
add sugar-fine LS to a depth of 2.5" or 3". This results in a couple of
questions.
1. Would these guys be ok in a mixed CC/LS setup and this depth, or do they need
a complete sand substrate?
<The problem is that the CC does not stay at the bottom, it will rise to the top
of the sand, making problems for the Jawfish especially.>
2. I've read up on your site about the LS depths recommended (1" or less for
decorative purposes, 4"+ for DSB). I'm very diligent about regular water changes
(~15% a week w/ vacuum) and monitoring nitrates, so I'm more concerned fish
happiness than nitrate reduction.
<Jawfish make mostly vertical burrows, so 3+ inches of sand is best.>
3. Tied to question 2, are there additional drawbacks to this
combination and depth I should investigate further?
<I would remove the CC, and replace with sand. A pain but really the best long
term solution.>
Thanks for all of your help and support.
Ian
<Chris>
How long can I store live sand? 5/27/06
I have searched your site and have not found an exact answer to my
query. Recently I obtained approximately 100 lbs of aragonite live sand from an
existing reef that the owner broke down. I'm not quite ready to tear down my
tank but will be doing so in order to swap out my system for a reef ready tank
in about six months. I'd like to keep the sand "living" in storage if at all
possible. I was considering placing it in several 5 gallon buckets with water
and a lid to seal it from most of the air.
<Mmm, not this...>
The reason I thought of doing it this way was to mimic the bags of live sand
for sale at just about every fish store. Is this the right thing to do or
should I just let it dry out completely?
<Neither>
Also how long will live sand remain active if in aquarium water but outside of
the original system?
<With proper care a few to several months...>
Any assistance that you could provide with respect to this mater would be
greatly appreciated and keep up the great work on the site!
Thanks,
Dave
<Best to "store" this in "aquarium type settings"... with some water atop the
sand, it being recirculated, adding a bit of food every few days... A heater if
there's a chance of cold... But the live components need oxygen, gas exchange,
nutrients, stable water quality. Bob Fenner>
Live Rock/Live Sand, Collecting Your Own - 03/14/2006
Hello,
<Hi Matt.>
I have been reading postings on the importance of curing live rock. Are there
any methods (e.g. limiting exposure to air, container selection, collection
protocols) to employ in order to avoid the need for curing the live rock; that
is, if you are collecting your own?
<Well, all of the above really. Some die off to be expected regardless. For
minimum, I suppose you could try duplicating the ocean during transit (flow,
water conditions, etc.), not cleaving organisms in two. Perhaps best to just
keep moist, preventing waste material build up in the shipping water. Aside from
this, are you sure collection is legal in your area?>
I live close to the ocean and can make the transition from the sea to the
display tank/refugium in minutes.
<Would be nice, though I would still plan some wait and see time.>
The water in the tank will also be natural, collected from the sea.
<Not advised, see WWM re.>
I would like to make the transition of Live Sand and Live Rock as seamless as
possible.
<Not advised for the sand either...also posted on WWM.>
As I have only just finished plumbing the system, I am now ready to add water,
LS, and LR to my display tank and refugium. Since it is an initial startup, do
you recommend adding all of the LS and LR to the display tank and refugium all
at once (125 gallon display/20 gallon refugium -- not sure how many pounds of
LS/LR I will be adding yet)?
<For typical start up plans, yes, best to start all at once.>
Also can hermits/other sand sifters and macro algae be added immediately to the
refugium at startup?
<Not until a cycle is established.>
My other question is this: What type of a maturation cycle should I
expect knowing that all the contents within the tank have been taken directly
from the sea (nothing is synthetic)? About how long
(understanding approximately 1 month for most systems), if any at all, should
the cycle take?
<Hard to say, may experience minor or major issues. I'd expect major if you use
the water and sand.>
Anything I should watch out for?
<Just the usual suspects.>
I understand my situation is somewhat unique. One last question --Haven't seen a
lot of info on critter stocking schedule/protocol.
<No? All posted on WWM.>
Once the tank has matured appropriately (this timeframe still questionable to me
in my situation), how much can you stock for the first time (this being a local
fish and invertebrate tank). I have read the rule is fish first, then
invertebrates.
<Hmmm...covered also. Not always the case.>
The intertidal species I will be adding are pretty hardy to begin with. How long
should you wait after the first stocking before adding more?
<Depends how much you add at once, generally a month or so.>
What should that amount be, the same as the first stock?
<One - two fish at a time (first and thereafter).>
I just would like to have the initial startup go as smoothly as possible.
<In this case, ditch the water/sand idea. Make your water, purchase your sand.
Start all up and let the cycle work out. Stock from there.>
Thanks,
Matt
<Hope that helps. Do check on the legality of your collections first. - Josh>
Marine Set Up/Live Rock/Sand - 3/1/2006
Hey WWM, <Hey Johnny> You guy's have helped me a lot in the past and was
wondering if you can bail me out a little more. <Will try> I'm in my 6th day of
cycle [100 lbs live rock 20 lbs LS ]. I removed the bio balls from my pro clear
150 wet/dry from the get-go. And put about 5 lbs of live rock in the "now'
sump...not that big [should I put more LR in there?]. <No real need to.> I keep
reading about DSB in the sump but with my wet/dry I have that blue sponge and
I'm wondering how I would change it out without all the sand going into the
return pump area...or just leave live rock with no sand? <I’d just use the live
rock.> I am also lighting the sump with the Coralife [2] 9watt marine mini
light. <I wouldn’t have any lights on until this tank is cycled, at least 28
days. Nutrients will be high and you will be inviting a nuisance algae bloom.>
The incoming water into the sump [live rock area] is very turbulent, will this
be O.K for the live rock? <No problems.> just worried that it will be too rough
to put anything else in that area. Please help me out with some advice. Thanks
for all the help. <Johnny, in future queries please do a spelling/grammar
check. We just don't have the time to edit queries before posting. Thank
you. James (Salty Dog)>
Johnny
Do you have a suggestion on how to get worms and small crustaceans to
populate my substrate? 1/20/06
I've got nothing evidently moving in there. Started with 30# aragonite and
10# "live sand". The live sand seems like a waste of
cash considering that nothing macroscopic grew out.
Thanks
Dan
<A couple of standard approaches include stocking "relatively fresh" live rock
and seeing what develops... and buying/seeding the established system with a
"critter kit"... the last from folks like Inland Aquatics, Indo-Pacific Sea
Farm... .coms. Bob Fenner>
Replacing Sand, Building Depth Back Up - 01/05/2006
Hello,
<Hi there Anne.>
I've looked through the questions but haven't come across one that answers
mine........
<Ok.>
I have been taking out small amounts of sand during my weekly water changes (the
last three times) that seem to have Cyanobacteria growing on it.
<Hate it when that happens. You can try a smaller diameter tube, should help.>
I'm starting to notice my DSB isn't so deep anymore. Is it ok to add sand back
into the tank a little at a time to build this back up?
<Yes, and you're right, a little at a time. When adding try moving small
portions, add the new, smooth the old back over. Don't bury the existing bed.>
Thank you
<Gladly. - Josh>
Anne Canfield
Staff Research Associate II
California National Primate Research Center
<Awesome. I love 'em!:)>
Live sand question 7/21/05
Hello,
Do you know what could cause the sand to turn a rust brown color.
<Mmm, usually diatom profusion... sometimes BGA, at times both... Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgid.htm
and the linked files...>
We stirred
the top layer up, and the next day it was back. Maybe even worse. We have a
50 gallon, with live sand, and 2 clown fish. We are trying to get started,
but are waiting to find out why our sand is turning orange. Any more info
that you would need from me?
<Mmm, what sort of source water, what do you do to treat it, salt brand, methods
for its mixing, storage... tank set-up, history...>
I am not sure what else to tell you. I know it
s a salt water tank and all the levels look good! Thank you!
Kristi Pekar
<Take the long read, please, and learn to use the tool, collective experience
which is WWM. Bob Fenner>
Live Sand? - 06/20/05
Thanks for that. When you say sugar-fine sand bed you are not referring
to live sand?
<<Nope. You can use any sugar-fine sand...even silica sand (I can hear you
gasp <G>.)...though I confess I prefer to use aragonite when
available. Just seed the "dry" sand with a bit of sand from your mates
tanks or from the LFS and it will become "live" in short order.>>
Also I should put some critters in the refugium as well correct?
<<Depends on what you mean by "critters." If you mean amphipods, Mysis
shrimp, copepods, bristle worms, and the like...then the answer is yes...if
you mean shrimp, crabs, small fish, etc. ...then the answer is no. The
latter defeats the purpose of the refugium.>>
Thanks for the info you guys rock.
<<From this old rocker...Regards, Eric R.>>
Live Sand
Hello there, and thanks for responding to me. <You're welcome> Sorry to
bother you again with more questions. I talked to a friend of mine and told
him that I was going to live sand. He said that I may want to keep the UGF
for good filtering. <A sand substrate is just too fine to be used with an
UGF. You would have little to no water flow through the lift tubes.>That
sand don't do that good of job filtering by its self. He also said that a
live rock and live sand together would do a good job. So would it or could I
get by with just live sand? Just to let you know that I will have fish only,
unless I need live rock. Plus I have a filter and skimmer. <Cody, you need
to educate yourself on different types of filtration and which one will be
right for you. Google search "live sand" , "live rock" and "wet/dry
filters" on the WWM and read all the info presented. You will then be able
to make your decision and be a more informed aquarist in doing so. James
(Salty Dog)>Thanks Cody
Restarting Tank...LR/LS Question - 06/09/05
Hello WebSiteMedia Guru’s,
<<Good evening>>
Not wanting to sound too cliché, I very much love your site and all the great
information you have for all of us! Thank you already for what you have taught
me while reading through your site.
<<And thank you...happy to serve.>>
I am ‘Beginner-again’, having had marine fishes a decade ago and recently
restarted a fish only tank in Nov ’04, and converted it to a combo in March ’05.
My biggest problem, currently, is an amazing growth of Diatoms in an otherwise
seemingly healthy tank ( based on the growth of fishes and inverts ). If I don’t
scrape the glass in 4 days, I can’t look through it. Phos = 0, Nitrate = 0,
Silica = 0. pH 8.3, SG 1.0024
<<Hmm...likely a result of your "conversion." Will probably pass with time/good
husbandry.>>
Being from the old school, I started the set-up with a W/D filter ( 10 gal ). I
now understand that is not desirable.
<<Fine for the FO setup...no, not so desirable for the reef.>>
Being ignorant, I also started the tank with my old substrate (15 year old
Dolomite!, yup, I can hear you now ).
<<tee hee!>>
Sooo, if I searched your site well enough, I now understand the following:
1) I need to change the Dolomite.
<<I would.>>
2) I need to add more Live rock.
<<More of a subjective issue in my opinion. I prefer to leave lots of space for
corals to grow, fish to swim...>>
3) I need to get rid of my W/D media ( bioballs ) and convert to sump only.
<<Another good move, yes.>>
Here is my current set up:
Tank: 75gal
Lighting: Compacts 2-55 watt 10,000 2-55 watt
actinic-3
Filter: Remora Pro w/ Mag drive, 10gal Wet/ Dry Sump
Water circulation: One 200gph powered, internal
<<EEK! You need to increase your water circulation by 10-fold my friend!>>
Substrate: Dolomite
<<Again...tee hee!>>
Live Rock: 44lbs Premium Fiji
Fish:
1 - Foxface
1 - Molly Miller Blenny
2 - Redeye Cardinals
Inverts:
1 - Fighting Conch
5 - Blue legged hermits
2 - Scarlet Hermit crabs
4 - Astraea Conehead nails
2 - Banded Trochus Snails
2 - Cluster Dusters - Feed Zooplex
1 - 6" Hairy Mushroom Polyp ( splitting very well ) -
Feed Zooplex
1 - 5" Candy Cane Coral ( Fiji ) ( splitting well ) -
Feed Zooplex
2 - Turbo snails ( haven't seen them in a while )
Plants:
Shaving Brush (not doing well, being eaten)
<<Your Foxface said to say "thank you!">>
My questions:
Should I change the Dolomite to live sand or other (what do you suggest? & how
many pounds) at the same time of adding more live Rock (I am scared!)
<<No need to be frightened <G>. Replace the dolomite with sugar-fine aragonite
(no need for live...will become "live") to a MINIMUM DEPTH of 4" (6" is better),
and if you really think you need it, add more FULLY CURED live rock after the
sand.>>
I should remove the bioballs slowly AFTER more rock and substrate change, yes?
<<Of small concern I think given the size of your wet/dry, but it won't hurt
either to wait a couple weeks after the addition of sand and rock to pull the
bio-balls.>>
If my tank will have app. 90 pounds of live rock, what is the sense of having a
refugium?
<<Huh? Thought you said you read our FAQs <G>? Start reading here and at the
related links in blue, then come back and tell me "why indeed?":
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm>>
Any other suggestions?
Keep reading/learning/researching. And increase the flow in that tank!>>
Thank you very much, in advance, for any specific help you can offer! Rainer
<<Very welcome, Eric R.>>
P.S.: My apology if this is a copy of a post which reaches you - I have problems
w/ my DIAL UP provider and am using another e-mail account)
<<No worries mate.>> | |
|
