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FAQs on Magnificent/Ritteri Anemone Use in Marine Aquariums 2

Related Articles: Magnificent Anemones, Bubble Tip Anemones, Anemones, Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: Ritteri Anemones 1, Magnificent Anemone Identification, Magnificent Anemone Behavior, Magnificent Anemone Compatibility, Magnificent Anemone Selection, Magnificent Anemone Systems, Magnificent Anemone Feeding, Magnificent Anemone Disease, Magnificent Anemone Reproduction/Propagation, Anemones in General, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Lighting, Anemone Identification, Anemone Selection, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Health, Anemone Placement, Anemone Feeding, Heteractis malu

You gotta keep'em separated...

New Print and eBook on Amazon:  

Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Sebae <not> Anemone, Clownfish <ID> and Lighting questions - 6/11/10
I have a 150 Litre (about 40 US Gallons) tank which is floor standing
<What does this mean?>
and quite deep with a half octagonal shape with a flat mirrored back. 
I have a total of 10 fish in it all young and small with one a Goby Mandarin janitor, 4 clowns (two of them very small youngsters), 3 blue damsels, one very young Blue Tang
<Will need more room, be moved elsewhere>
and a newly acquired young vivid yellow with black face butterfly.
<This too likely>
I have an adequate load of live rock (many pounds but lost count as to how many pounds), a good 300 lph wave making power head and two smaller ones to assist the return flow back along the lower parts of the tank through the live rock caverns, and a WeiPro just adequate sized skimmer. Yes I realise that the tank will be too small when some of those fish grow so I do intend to move to a 90 to 100 gallon tank later this year when I can afford it.
<A good plan... do keep a checklist of gear, a box or such for accumulating monies toward this project regularly>
The current tank is three months old since used as a marine aquarium and well cycled maintaining zero NH3 and NO2 levels for 2 months now, water temp at a constant 30 to 31C as per the year round average environment here, SG 1.022 to 1.024
<Mmm, I'd keep it 1.025-1.026 and steady w/ for the anemone>
and pH around 8.2. I use a Denitrator to try to control the Nitrate build up from the Nitrogen cycle end product but still not working fully after 6 weeks and now even directly feeding it 1 ml of vodka diluted with tank water every week!!
<These types of gear are "finicky">
So I am making usually 20% to 30% water changes weekly
<Good>
to keep the Nitrate low, typically to 10 to 20 mg/l, and the Phosphates typically now to around 3 to 5 mg/l. but cannot seem to get desirable lower levels despite zero nitrate and phosphate content NSW exclusively now used. I am sure I do not overfeed but must say lately these levels do not seem to rise after water changes like before so each change is lowering the level now more permanently since I changed to using NSW from originally RO water and high quality Marinium sea salt mix. I have recently used Poly Filter Pads in a canister filter but had little or no affect on my phosphate levels so I have just ordered from the USA some Seachem Phosguard based on a lot of recommendations I have read.
<Use any/all such chemical filtrants cautiously... in small quantities to start with... Chemo, Mixo- and Lithotrophic life need such compounds in some quantity>
I use tested and high quality local reef NSW taken from 20 km.s offshore and used and sold by a local reliable marine fish shop who use it exclusively in all their healthy looking tanks. I am an Englishman retired and living in Thailand on the Gulf of Thailand northern coast
<I'd like to talk w/ you re your experiences there; perhaps visit>
thus the access to good reef NSW. I must say though that this hobby has turned me into a chemist with a formidable set of water parameter testing reagents and even a digital pH meter too so a corner of my kitchen looks like a laboratory, as I do take all my interests and hobbies seriously.
<Ah good>
Anyway my water parameters are not the subject of my questions just for your info.
Anyhow please see the attached picture I took today of my newly acquired (just yesterday - Tuesday) large and awesome looking anemone which is magnificent
<Indeed it is... Heteractis magnifica>
and a lovely violet coloured base and foot with many tan coloured long tentacles. Since taking that shot the anemone has puffed out and is now 50% bigger for sure with even more tentacles and moved an inch or two higher on the live rock which I got free with it as it was firmly holding onto at the shop, an amazing creature indeed. One of my very original Clown fish has already made it his home within 12 hours as the photograph shows and he has stayed in it almost all day swimming around in total bliss. The cost of this anemone was just 300 Thai Baht ( about US$9) from my local reliable marine fish shop which is a great price, but hey in Thailand prices are normally very attractive for all aquatic equipment and stock, but limited supply for some needed items like some water testers and PhosGuard for example. Sorry for being so long in coming to the point, so at last now for my questions :-
Firstly is this beautiful anemone a Sebae of the H Crispa variety ?
<Mmm, I don't think so... judging by the shape of tentacles, colour of pedicle (need to see a shot of the verrucae...) and size>
If not what is it as I cannot firmly identify it from the many pictures on here and other sites?
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm
and the linked files above>
Secondly my hosting Clown Fish in the picture, is it a Percula or a False Percula and what is the identifiable difference between the two?
<Appears to be an Ocellaris... see WWM re Amphiprionines>
Finally and the main question is lighting. I have a JEBO dual fluorescent tube lighting unit which is well made with each light having its own switch. It has two 10W 12 inch long tubes one a blue light marked "Coral and Marine Blue 20000K" and the other one a white light marked "Silver White Light 12000K" which I am told by the shop is the correct balance for a marine aquarium.
<Mmm...>
I keep reading that you need "3 to 5 watts lighting per gallon" for a reef aquarium depending on the corals/anemones that occupy it.
<This system is vastly under lit... as you read you'll find that this species, most other large reef anemones need more intense lighting, and can make up to an extent their photosynthetic light/loss through ancillary
feeding>
So for my 40 US gallon tank this is say 4 X 40 = 160 watts of required lighting. I have to say I am somewhat confused as two 80 watt fluorescent tubes would floodlight my whole garden being equivalent to two 600 Watt tungsten lights.
<Likely you can/should opt for a smaller wattage metal halide pendant...>
So I have been logically assuming by stating "3 to 5 watts of lighting per gallon" that has to mean wattage light output equivalent to a tungsten lamp but obviously at a different colour temperature as required by the reef. 10 watt fluorescent tubes are they claim equivalent to about 75 to 80 watts of normal tungsten lighting so I assume this is adequate for my reef tank being a total of 150 to 160 watts of equivalent normal tungsten lighting.
<Not tungsten necessarily>
I appreciate the colour temperature of the light in Kelvin is important but assume the shop and the lamp unit manufacturer know what they are talking about with recommending the two tubes I have installed, one blue and one white. I leave both tubes on together and switched on and off by a timer switch for equal 12 hour periods every day and of course the off period overnight midnight to midday (but no sunlight gets near my tank and indeed little daylight as I have tinted windows to keep some of the heat out) . So is this lighting I am using all okay for this wonderful anemone?
<Not indefinitely no>
If not should I go for a bigger
JEBO light unit and say 18 inch or 24 inch tubes and if so what marked wattage and colour temp?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/CnidIndex2.htm
scroll down to "Anemone Lighting"...>
This new anemone is currently very healthy looking and stunningly beautiful and I want it to stay that way for as long as is normally possible with these creatures kept in a caring captive environment.
Thanks in advance for your help and this wonderful helpful site I found by Googling.
Regards
Ray Walton
<Give us a ring/writing if you have questions after reading. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

BTA very distressed... Mis-Id... care...   9/26/09
Hi Crew!
Hi Mr. Fenner,
<Hi Claire>
I hope that everybody is well.
<About as well as might be expected, thank you>
I have a lot of problems with a new anemone, BTA,
<Mmm, this is not an Entacmaea... Almost certainly IS a Heteractis magnifica... based on number, length of tentacles, the verrucae...>
sold as green but became pink right away with greenish-yellowish tips. With the anemone I rescued (only because your great help), they are the only anemones (besides clones - if ever will be) that I will keep in this system (and I intend to sell the clones of the BTA - if she survives).
- Aquarium : 90 gal.
- Live stock: - 2 blue hermits;
- 2 ocellaris;
- 1 canary wrasse;
- 1 little LTA;
- 1 gigantic BTA;
- Parameters (as of yesterday morning)
- Ammonia = 0
- Calcium = 380
- KH = 125,3
- Phosphate = traces
- Nitrate = 0
- Nitrite = 0
- pH = 8.4
- Total alkalinity = 125
- SG = 2.05
<Mmm>
When I got the BTA (three weeks ago now) and took her home, after acclimation, she never found a suitable place. I re-arranged the LR at least 5 times to manage some crevices but she continued to travel (along with the clowns). LPS told me that she was caught from Sri Lanka. Now he could not tell me nothing concerning how much deep she was. At work they told me that waters of Sri Lanka are exceptionally polluted, and I thought that perhaps that was the reason of this discomfort.
I changed the lighting, as I read on your site that it is better to replace bulbs every 6 or 7 months. I took now 4 T5 AquaStar and 2 T5 actinic Coralstar from Sylvania. I put on too a moonlight system to ease on stress at night for the canary wrasse.
This anemone ate very well, I only fed once a week, with my LTA.
Yesterday night, she began to gape - mouth widely distended, then began to close and to drift away, I shut down the auxiliary pump and the second power head and she sits just there. This night, at 4 in the morning, I awake to check and I saw these lesions. No predators in the tanks beside the 2 hermits and they never approached her too much.
I do not know what to do: I do not understand what kind of habitat I must build for her, and which kind of illness it is. I think that without further appropriated care, she will die. Please, help me.
Thanks you,
Claire
<Well... the lesions you show so well are actually tears in the pedicle...
There is a great deal to relate to you here... Best that you read it at your leisure:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm
This species of Actinarian is not easily kept... but can be done... Bob Fenner>

Re: BTA very distressed  9/26/09
WetWebMedia Crew wrote:
> <Well... the lesions you show so well are actually tears in the pedicle...
> There is a great deal to relate to you here... Best that you read it at your leisure:
> http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm
> This species of Actinarian is not easily kept... but can be done... Bob
> Fenner>
Mr Fenner,
Thank you so much for answering me so fast. If LPS told me that it was an Heteractis Magnifica, I'd never bought it, for all the reasons exposed in the link you sent me. In her state, I cannot give her back to LPS and my quarantine tank is 10 Gallons. From the time I wrote to you, she expelled a lot of brown stuff looking like "poop" (sorry, I don't know any other qualifying terms). I did what you told me last time, and changed over 2 months the carbon and washed my 2 filters. I will net the water now to try to clean the water. She doesn't smell bad, only hanging there with shrugging tentacles. I forgot to tell you than 2 days after her arrival, she expelled 1) some white filaments that I took for stress reaction, 2) some looking like "flat worms" white, each one 1cm long, moving as snakes in the water. What is my next move? feed her? make water change? moving her now that I can see where she should be placed ("funny" thing is yesterday night when I was watching her, I read almost all the FAQS concerning Heteractis Magnifica)?
Sorry to bother you again, but you advice is pure gold, and If I succeeded to save the LTA, perhaps I can save this beauty too.
Thank you for all your help.
Respectfully,
Claire (actually stressed on the same level that the anemone, without the same symptoms)
<Keep reading my friend. BobF>

Re: Moving, stocking and advice question  3/10/09
Thank you for your very quick response. I really appreciate your help.
Respectfully,
Christopher R. Sandoval
Ah, welcome. BobF.

Thanks Again
Dear Crew,
<Christopher>
This is the photo of my Ritteri Anemone before the move. The clowns regularly spawn, I was not sure if you need the photo for anything/ reference.
Respectfully,
Christopher R. Sandoval
<Ah, thank you for sharing. Very nice specimens and image. BobF>

Bubble tip anemone? Mmm, nope... some reading now!  1/19/09 Hi, <Hello there> Thanks for all the great info. You really are a gold mine to us rookies. <Welcome> I have what I think is a BTA. I have enclosed a pic (bubble). <Mmm, nope... see the color of the pedicle, the verrucae? Back to go... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and this specimen is totally bleached...> My tank is a 75 gallon about 6 months old. It has 3 110W VHOs. My water has ~0 nitrates and nitrites. Ph~8.0.4, alkalinity 10, salinity 1.024, Ca 440. I have about 10 pieces of live rock, about the size of a softball, maybe a little bigger. I do about a 5 gallon water change about 3 or 4 times a month, siphoning through the sandbed. I have a sump and a refugium with macroalgae. I have been adding "essential elements", "Microvert", and strontium and molybdenum on a regular basis. I have been trying to feed it raw shrimp or snapper with a turkey baster, once or twice a week. It has an anemone crab that lives in it, but no clowns or other fish. I probably have about low to medium water flow. I got it about 4 to 6 weeks ago. It was not attached to a rock. <Bad sign...> Since I have had it, it has just rolled around the bottom in a ball (about 3 inches in diameter), as pictured. It looks healthy, except that it will not attach to anything or come out of its ball. I have another anemone (I think it is just the common Caribbean? <Maybe a Condylactis sp... perhaps an LTA> I enclosed a pic of it too). I searched and I don't think I have a fish that is bothering it. My question (whew) is why won't it attach to anything and what should I do? Thanks for the help, Greg <... all your answers are linked at the article above... See H. magnifica article, FAQs... Enjoy the learning. Bob Fenner>

Anemone problems, Ritter's   11/25/08 Hi there, you have helped me out in the past, and I am back again. I just acquired a Ritteri anemone, about 4" in diameter, <Mmm... "squeezed down" for shipping likely... Heteractis magnifica in the wild are almost always much larger than this> came shipped, arrived in good condition. I have tons of live rock, checked up on your website, placed him high in the tank. Cut back the water flow for now, he rolled around a lot and now is where i think he wants to be, however my maroon clown has taken interest in him and now is trying to move him. The anemone isn't attached yet and it has been a few days. What should i do?? Thanks for all your help. <Mmm... I'd remove the Clownfish for sure... temporarily... to see if this "helps" the anemone to settle... H. magnifica/Ritter's do "go floating about" much more than any other symbiotic Actinarian species... Do make sure pump intakes and overflows are effectively screened... heaters as well. You have read my piece on this species care on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm and the linked files above? This is not an easily kept animal... Bob Fenner>

Concern re Incorrect Information on a FAQ Posted.  Could a note be Added? <<Mmm, yes. RMF>>, there are NO naturally white Heteractis species  - 02/21/07 Hello Mich, <Hello again Brandon!> Here is the image that seems to be lost in the stream of bits, bytes, one's and zero's that we call the Internet.  I was a programmer before I started messing with water.   <Oh!  Do you know anything about placing rotating banner ads?  We have been trying to place the ads on our site and have run into multiple issues.  I received the image with the other query.> As promised here is the text that I found that concerned me as well, <I will inform the powers that be, of your concerns.> "*Sebae **Anemone* Hello Again, (It has been about 1 month since my last email, heehee) The tank is running perfect with the RO water changes and the Prizm, (I don't know about a 90 gallon, but for my 26 it's pulling out tons of dry skim, only complaint is a little noise, a good compromise though.)  I had a sebae anemone surprise delivered to me in a ordering mix up, I contemplated sending it back but didn't know if it would survive the shipping again so decided to keep the freebee. Its white, which scared me at first, but then I realized that all the pictures of bleached anemones appeared translucent, mine is sort of a creamy off white sheet rock color.  It has purple tips.  It attached to my rock in the lower areas of the tank and hasn't moved yet (1 week).  It responds well to being touched (shrinks away) but doesn't feel sticky as it probably should.  The only thing that it would eat was a little squid, no Mysis, fish fry, or krill.  I have 130 watts of brand new lighting right on top of the tank.  Do you think this anemone has expelled its algae or can I salvage him. Oh he's about 3 inches diameter and my Percula shows absolutely no interest. I know clowns have a tendency to fight but could I add a small Clarkii?  Thanks a ton guys. Eric <<<Many Sebaes are naturally white so he should be fine.  The lighting will be sufficient for this anemone also.  Please read here for more info on these guys: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Cody>>>"   <Wrong. RMF> This alarmed me because I have never heard of a H. crispa, H. magnifica, or any other Heteractis spp. for that matter, being white.  Also it would seem to be in conflict with a statement that Mr. Calfo made that went something along the lines of, " <<<<this is a common reality/problem my friend. Your anemone is dying... and it was not a good candidate from go. Frankly (not berating you), your merchant should have known not to sell this animal and you should have known not to buy it (as an educated consumer... research your livestock's needs before you buy them). This species of anemone is naturally dark in color (usually brown) with dark purple tips. Yellow is not a natural color and indicated an animal that is bleached and/or has been dyed. It will be dead within days. Few live weeks beyond import. I really don't know why merchants pay for these things when they are shipped to them. If they stopped paying for them and if consumers would stop buying them, then the collectors would get their acts together and stop shipping them unhealthy. Please read more about anemone health and car in our archives. Be sure to follow the links at the top of the page too. Best regards, Anthony>>>>"  It would at least appear to me that you all seem to advocate not buying the white specimens in lieu of tan or deep brown specimens.   <Yes.> Mine is a very deep brown/tan color.  I have not made up my mind as to the pigment, it seems different every time that I look at it.   <Happens.> As for the attachment, I was trying to narrow this guy down to subspecies.  I know that it is of genus Corallimorph, I am strongly leaning toward a species of Rhodactis, I really would like to know if this is correct, and if so what subspecies is it. <Yes is a Rhodactis.  More in other query.> I bought it mistakenly as a type of leather coral.  What I get for listening to the people at the store.  From what I have found I am not quite out of my league, as I am regularly hand feeding a Plerogyra sinuosa, a Trachyphyllia geoffroyi, a Heteractis crispa, two colonies of Tubastrea spp., and now the mystery Corallimorph.  I introduced food into the tank and a mouth appeared.  It was quite large, so I fed it. The mouth consequentially went away, after taking the Mysis of course.   <Yep.> Also I am going to quote the address of the offending page, < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaefaq2.htm the 12th query down.>   perhaps it should be looked at with some scrutiny, again guys I am not trying to undermine the work that you do.  It is as I told Mich, you very wonderful and dedicated people are often the last line of defense against, haste, lack of knowledge, and general disregard for common sense.  But, I would hate for someone to see this and think that all was well, when in fact it is not.   <Thank you for your observation.> I would love to help you guys out in any way that I can, and if there is ever something that I could do please do not hesitate to let me know. <We are still trying to place rotating banner ads on the site and have run into numerous problems.  Any chance you are knowledgeable in this area?  Any assistance here would be most appreciated.>   With the utmost gratitude, Brandon R. Foster <Thank you, -Mich> B <<Got it>> The photo that he is referring to was sent in another query and was place on the FAQ's from 2/20.  His note is quite lengthy, but his point as I understand it is: the response that was given is incorrect and he would like to see a note added stating as much so other aren't mislead.  It is the 12th query down on this page http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaefaq2.htm   Below is the text he take issue with and the justification. <Many Sebaes are naturally white so he should be fine.  The lighting will be sufficient for this anemone also.  Please read here for more info on these guys:   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Cody>"   <<Is not a factual stmt. RMF>> This alarmed me because I have never heard of a H. crispa, H. magnifica, or any other Heteractis spp. for that matter, being white.  Also it would seem to be in conflict with a statement that Mr. Calfo made that went something along the lines of, " <this is a common reality/problem my friend. Your anemone is dying... and it was not a good candidate from go. M

Ritteri update...info for others   12/16/06 Hello folks, <Hello Kevin, Mich here.> I know many people have difficulty maintaining healthy Magnificent Anemones, and I wouldn't recommend them for most aquarists.   <Nor would I.> For those that try, I thought I would share my set-up that seems to be working (although it's been only 12 months).   <Thank you for sharing.  Success stories are always nice.> I have a 75 gallon LR set-up with 80 lbs. of liverock.  Filtration is a wet-dry (w/out bio balls) w/ 750 gal/hr. pump and 2 powerheads for brisk water movement.  Lighting is a 10,000K MH w/ reflector suspended about 8 in. above water surface (it should be noted that even with no hood on  my tank, water temp during light cycle is at 80 degrees F.... try this with a hood or smaller tank you would likely need a chiller). Only other occupants in tank are a pair of Clarki clowns (who aggressively defend their Anenome during maintenance).  Simply can't decide what else to get. <Sometimes less is more.> Diet is small slivers of fresh shrimp, no more than 1/2 the size of the mouth (occasionally substituted w/ slivers of fresh, non-greasy fish).  Every other feeding is a processor made "paste" consisting of fresh shrimp, Mysis shrimp, and krill.  I turn off the pump and powerheads and use a syringe to squirt a small amount onto the Anenome.  Turning off water circulation is important here, as not doing so would likely degrade water quality and result in the Anenome getting very little.  I only feed once every 10-14 days.  I think many overfeed their anenomes.  With the intense lighting and resulting zooxanthellae production, it seems little food would be needed. Water changes of 15-20 % are done every 1-2 weeks, at which time I also supplement with Iodine. This Anenome is of the tan/ pink variety and has grown from about 7 inches to a little over a foot in diameter when fully opened (I hear the brightly colored ones don't do as well?).  Typical of Ritteri's, it has positioned itself at the top of the LR, directly under the MH, only about 12 inches from the bulb.  Personally, I wouldn't try this species with less intense light (power compacts, for example), I don't know if it would be enough.  Light cycle is on timer with 13 hours on, 11 off.      I would like to reiterate the importance of covering powerhead intakes and your overflow.  The only time this Anenome made significant movement was when my MH bulb burned out while I was at work.  I came home to find my Ritteri had been sucked through my overflow, shriveled and in only about 1 inch of water.  I quickly placed it back directly under the MH and replaced the bulb.  It recovered and hasn't moved from his favorite spot since (that was 6 months ago).  Lesson learned...I think I got lucky there. <Yes, a valuable lesson.> If anyone has kept a Ritteri for a long period of time (i.e, a couple years or more), I would like to here <hear> of your setup and husbandry. Also, if you don't have extremely intense light, water movement that turns over your tank volume many times each hour, or you don't maintain very good water quality, I would recommend you pick one of the easier maintained anenomes. <Yes, earlier is a relative term.> Sorry, would have sent pick but digital is in for repair. <Perhaps in a future update.> Lastly, read Bob's book, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist"......the best book out there. <I absolutely agree with your sentiments here!  An excellent addition to any aquarists' holiday list.  Much success to you!  -Mich> -Kevin Crowe

Sebae/Ritteri Anemone Systems    6/6/06 Hello to all, <Hello Chris> I was wondering what are your thoughts on my ability to keep a Ritteri with my proper set-up. <A difficult anemone to keep for any length of time.>  I have a 55 gallon aquarium that is only 15" deep, <Do better in larger tanks.> I have (2) 175 watt Metal Halide and plenty of actinics.  I planned on placing the anemone on the top of my largest rock in the aquarium which is about 7" from the surface.  My water quality is near perfect and I have excellent water flow (wave maker, sump return pump, etc..). <Wavemakers are a plus.>  Or do you think that I maybe over killing my aquarium with so much light (although it never bothered my carpet anemone before in the aquarium)? <Lighting is fine.>  I recently moved and don't have any livestock in it right now, but a saddleback clown, and wanted to start it up again with a Ritteri. <Chris, do read here and related articles above.   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Thanks, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Chris

Ritteri do I have it in me?   6/3/06 Good Afternoon, .....excellent site, you guys ( girls included, no offense) rule.  I have a 50 gal aquarium that I have ran for many years as an exclusive anemone tank (no other creature but anemones.. not even clowns), and I just moved and I am starting it up again.  I have kept just about every type of anemone (Bubble, Sebae, LTA, Carpet...for only a month though, quarantine situation for a friend), but the one that I have never kept was a Ritteri (the one that I always wanted to).  I have a ton of experience with all types of anemones with everything that could go wrong to everything that goes perfectly.  So I am not questioning my abilities or knowledge, just my lighting.  I have (2) 175w MH....1 6500k and the other I think is a 10k or 12k, and (2) 65w actinics.  I have learned through the years (and this lesson was costly) that if you have doubt, it best not to try, so I am asking the experts (yes you).  And I know that even after my tank cycles again it will be at least 6 months before I can put one in.  If you don't think I have the lighting for a Ritteri, what about a carpet long for the term? Thanks, Michael <<Michael:  Many experts consider the Ritteri not only difficult to keep; but, due to their lifespans/infrequent reproduction they should not even be pulled out of the ocean.  It would be a shame to get one and then lose it.  Some people also think that clownfish are good for the well being of the anemones.  As for me, I have RTBA, GTBA, LTA and a Condy under 400W MH lighting.  I also have a RTBA, Condy and Green Carpet under VHO lighting.  I feed the anemones every few days and they seem to be doing well.  All the anemones came with tanks I bought.  If it were me, I would stick with a clone of a RTBA or GTBA.  That way, you're not experimenting on a critter that just got pulled out of the ocean.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Magnificent Anemone Compatibility  4/27/06 Hello folks.  Thanks for all the wonderful info. <Hello and you're welcome.> I think I know this answer, but want to make sure.  First, my tank and water parameters: -75 gallon with 75 lbs. of liverock, 1 open-end 250 watt MH (clean-ace 18,000 lumen, 6,500 K) in reflector suspended 8 in. above water, wet/dry filter made for 125 gal tank (no bio balls), pump and 2 powerheads=1600 gal/hr. water flow. -pH=8.3, temp=79 day (heat off MH), 77 night, specific gravity=1.024, nitrite/nitrate=0, free ammonia=0, alkalinity=4meq/L. All water is RO with 10- 15% water changed weekly.   Occupants are 1 magnificent anemone and 4 Clarki clowns....that's all.  Although I  acquired this tank 3 months ago with just a Clarki (the damsel, brittle star and coral beauty I inherited were given good new home), it had been up and running with previous owner for 3 years.  I know Ritteri's are among the most difficult of all anemones to maintain long-term but I'm trying to provide everything it needs.  I've only had it 2 months but I've never seen a healthier one- fed regularly with small slivers of shrimp, squid, scallop, or non-greasy fish briefly soaked in vitamin sol'n every other feeding, Iodine supplementation with water changes, a  robust body and thick, full tentacles, rich pink-tan color, and has grown from ~6 to 8+ inches. My question.  I am considering making this tank a Clarki/anemone tank, exclusively.  Which I think could be quite beautiful.  <Yes, such systems are very interesting.>  Given the large amount of unpopulated space in this tank, would a 2nd anemone still be out of the question?  I know that is normally a no-no due to the likelihood of a "chemical battle" b/t the anemones, but most don't have this much "unpopulated" space and I'm anal <Anal??> about maintaining perfect water parameters.  Could 2 anemones (Ritteri or not) ever co-exist in a setup such as this? <You're 75 doesn't have that much real estate.> I forgot to add.  I am about to move this setup into a 125 gal and adding 50 lbs. more liverock, a 2nd 250 watt MH for a 4:1 watt/gallon ratio with both lights suspended 8 in. over the water.  Just wanted you to know in case the extra room influences your answer. <Don't think you would have a problem here.  Wouldn't get the second anemone until the tank transfer is complete.  I would get a Ritteri, would not mix species.> To me, having a beautiful setup is secondary to the well-being of the inhabitants.  That's why I'm asking.  I'd rather have just one healthy anemone (I know, that term is relative with a Ritteri) with multiple Clarkii's instead of two anemones just "getting by" or worse.  But would love to have 2 if you think they could co-exist with TLC.  <I'd give it a shot.> I just ordered Bob's book "The Conscientious Aquarist" and will read it cover to cover. <Bob thanks you and do enjoy reading it.> Thanks so much for your time. <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Regards, -Kevin       
Re: another ritteri question
 - 5/2/2006 Hi Salty Dog! <Hello Kevin> I've written you a few times about my Magnificent Anenome.....you can tell to me to stop bugging you anytime, I won't be offended. <Will not.> I just keep coming up with new questions the other articles didn't quite answer. As you may recall, <Do not, receive too many queries to remember an individuals tank/specs.> I have a 75 gallon LR tank (~70 lbs.) with suspended 250 MH w/ reflector 8 in. off water, wet/dry without bio-balls, Prizm Deluxe skimmer (rated for up to 300 gal.), ~1600 gph water movement (it chooses an area of LR where there is significant movement, the Clarkii's have to fight the current to nestle down at night), <Could power down powerheads at night.> water parameters excellent, iodine and trace elements added with RO water changes, etc.  Only inhabitants are Ritteri acquired about 2 1/2 months ago, 3 Clarki clowns, and snail "cleaner pack".  So far, the Ritteri is doing very well.  <Good to hear.>  Growing rapidly with thick, full tentacles, etc.  My question is about feeding frequency and other foods you would recommend.  So far, I've fed it small slivers of  fresh raw shrimp, shellfish, squid, and non-greasy fish (thank god the farmer's market is just down the road).  I also feed a homemade "paste" that I make in my food processor.  It consists of a mix of a couple of the aforementioned meats with thawed Mysis shrimp and krill. <A good diet.> I turn off all pumps except one powerhead (if I don't, the food just gets blasted around the tank) and squirt a small amount onto it's tentacles via syringe (it really seems to love this concoction).  I've read some conflicting information on the recommended feeding frequency. I've been feeding 2-3 times a week, but have read some articles that say more than once a week may be too often.  It never refuses a meal.  Would it refuse if satisfied? <It may at times.  One feeding per week would be plenty as anemones do produce much of their food by way of photosynthesis.> I assume, with my MH lighting (which the Anenome is directly below), that the anemone's zooxanthellae are healthy and providing food, and the Clarkii's give him occasional tidbits, plus I'm sure he gets his fair share of Clarki poo.  Is my feeding schedule appropriate?  <As above>> Would you recommend any other food items, either fed directly or added to my "paste"?   <You are doing fine as is.  Might want to add a little Selcon to the paste.> Thanks again. <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Also, send Bob my kudos.  I'm halfway through his book......absolutely fantastic reading. <Will do and yes, it is a no nonsense straightforward book.  James (Salty Dog)> -Kevin

Heteractis magnifica? - 01/27/06 Wonderful Fish Gods, <<Mere mortal EricR here tonight.>> Simple questions, well I hope. <<Me too <grin>.>> I have read thru the related FAQ. <<Ok>> The reason I am double, even triple checking is I want to make sure I am feeding properly. <<Ok>> 1. I was told this was a carpet anemone, is it? <<Hmm...looks like Heteractis magnifica to me.  Very nice pics, by the way.>>>> 2. I have a Deltec MC500 on a 55g, will this be good enough for the 55? <<Yes>> 3. I have 4 65w PC 2 actinic, 2 10k, is this sufficient lighting? <<Possibly...just...  I would rather see 4x96w PCs for this anemone.>> Thanks very much for the great Site!!! <<Glad you like it.>> P.S. I do have a 46g with one 250w MH that I use for my corals. Which I will move the Anemone to if it is better for him/her. <<Ah, yes!  This tank (sans corals) would make an excellent specimen display for this anemone.  Regards, EricR>> <RMF can't find file... >

Heteractis magnifica And Maroon Clown? - 12/15/05 Hi, <<Hello>> Can you put Premnas biaculeatus family with Heteractis magnifica? Jeff Keith <<Mmm...is one of the 'better' choices I believe.  EricR>>

Re: Yellow Eye Kole... cnidarian compatibility, Ritteri...  11/16/05 Bob, <Carrie> Hi thanks for the reply. I did a 10 gallon water change on my 60 gallon, added Polyfilter, and added carbon. Here is what I really would love from you. My ex-boss seems to think that my zoanthids are not the problem in my tank, but another LFS who knows about corals said they can be dangerous as far as chemical warfare on other corals. <Yes> I have placed an order with Live Aquaria on Saturday and I will be getting 2 aquacultured Montiporas tomorrow at 3 p.m. (Tuesday) I want the best conditions for them and I would like you to maybe wade through my corals (most are frags of a couple of heads or inches) I will pull the chemical warfare causing monsters! I have: *3 types of trumpet/candy cane corals (one green, one "purple/green, and the brown with green center each having only 3 to 4 heads) *Yellow Polyps (maybe a dozen on a branch) *Several different type of the stemmed zoanthid (4 frags have like 6 to 10 polyps each) *Several different type of the flat mat zoanthids (Maybe like 20 to 30 on 3 different rocks) *Pagoda Cup Coral (I love and doing great) *Red Donut.... charity case, but with your help I am sure it will improve *Colt Coral (6 to 7") *1 Purple fuzzy mushroom......they said it was hairy.....not! *2 Green hairy mushrooms (I plan to frag at each split and keep the population to 3) *2 Green mushrooms given to me for a trade *1 1/2" frag of a light blue Acropora (bleached out from stress I assume) *1 1" Kenya tree.....seems to not be doing good *1 Rock of green star polyps that wont come out. *1 Small speck of a purple mushroom and 1 quarter size purple mushroom *1 HUGE and stationary Heteractis Magnifica....LOVE this thing!!! I have 2 different species of clowns living in it and I plan it to be my center piece in my 150 gallon so you can't talk me out of it! Sorry, to be stubborn, but unless he spews out poison to kill everything, I really want to keep him. <Am hopeful all this mis-mix can/will "growing up together" learn to get along, tolerate each other... There is a distinct possibility that the Heteractis magnifica will detach at some point... real trouble not if, when it contacts other cnidarians... hopefully someone will catch this quickly... Remember this pre-admonition> NOW, I never really wanted to go down the mushroom route, but I DO suspect them! I will remove whatever I need to keep the Montipora digitata. The little frag that got lost that I had did great, but that was BEFORE the 2 green quarter size mushrooms. Tell me what you would suggest. <More tanks... separating a good deal of this life into general "soft", "hard/stony", and anemone tanks...> I am going into a 150 gallon next week and I have someone that had pom pom xenia for me, but I would choose the xenia over other items if they would harm the xenia. I looked over wet web and thought that a chart of compatible corals would be GREAT instead of wading through all the emails.... What do you think? Or do you know of a web site? <A great idea... but don't know how we might make a multi-dimensional representation... that is, how to display the many "this goes with this semi-okay", "but now with these"... not a simple Cartesian plane> My favorites I really would like to keep are one hairy green mush, one purple fuzzy mush, my Het... mag., colt coral, Montiporas, candy canes and trumpets, and Kenya and hopefully the Acropora. I don't need any of the other mushrooms and would lower my Zoa collection to my 3 "mats on rocks", seems they are not as dangerous as the stemmed zoa's...am I right? Take Care Bob! Carrie  <Not as dangerous, toxic, but still so... Perhaps your employer would like/prefer for you to gather, assemble disparate opinions re these organism mixes from the various BB's? Bob Fenner> 

Magnificent/Ritteri Anemone Lighting  10/31/05 Hello, <Hi Ben.> At the moment my lighting consists of 2x150w 10k MH's and 1x150w 20k MH in between. Also a t8 blue for first on last off. I have a Ritteri and wondered if this lighting was ok.  <Mmm, maybe. To be honest the only time I ever saw a healthy Ritteri was directly under a 250 watt metal halide (single ended) but the HQI's are quite efficient so it may be enough. Having said that the lighting may or may not matter in this case as the anemone rarely adapts to captivity anyway.>  The lights are 9" off the water surface and the anemone is 6" below the surface. I also have 50k bulbs which could be used instead of the 10k's.Which Kelvin do anemones prefer?  <Most photosynthetic organisms prefer lighting in the 6500K to 10000K range.>  any advice is great, thank you. <Quite Welcome.> Ben Hustwayte 
<Adam J.>

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