Feeding mandarin in QT, 5/16/08
Hello Crew!
<Hi>
A new family member has arrived in the form of a green mandarin. I have him in QT as SOP for new arrivals. However, most arrivals eat in QT, and the
mandarin does not.
<Can be difficult in this regard.>
I've tried to locate copepods from my LSF's to no avail. The only thing I found (ordered blindly at the advice of a semi-trustworthy LFS) turned out to be only copepod eggs (Reef Pods from Algagen), so straight into the main display's fuge they went. Of course, these teeny tiny things were otherwise useless for QT; they were truly of no size at all. I almost think I bought snake-oil - and I know there exist myriad such products on the market thanks to your site. So, now I have a bored Mandarin that looks otherwise healthy after 6 days in the QT, and surely he's really hungry by now. I don't think plucking creatures that scurrying about on my rocks at night would be a successful endeavor on my part. I don't want to give anything to my Paracanthus, especially Ich, but I also don't want to stress the mandarin any further. Advice?
Regards,
Joel Pippin
<This is one of the few fish that I would not guarantee for a great length of time, both because of their difficulties in feeding and their general hardiness and resistance to common pathogens. Of course this is no guarantee, and with the notoriously susceptible paracanthus there is a certain degree of risk. However, feeding a mandarin in a bare bones QT is difficult at best, and could easily lead to its demise over the course of a month. So what to do, if it were my tank I would give the mandarin a good look over, and if you don't see any signs of disease, a FW dip, preferably with some Methylene Blue and into the main tank it goes. In this case you need to balance one risk against another, and it's not any easy decision.>
<Chris>

Mandarin Goby Eating Mysis/Video 4/25/08
Crew-
<Wes>
Here's something I thought you might enjoy. The video is a bit shaky because I was trying to ward off a cleaner shrimp, and of course the white
balance is off, but you get the point. He's eating Mysis. I've been trying to feed him several times daily to suit his metabolism. I work at a pet shop
and I always check to see if the mandarins eat. This one did, so I took him home. Anyhoo, without further ado,
http://youtube.com/watch?v=29J_S7bMY1A
Enjoy!
<Thank you for sharing your experience with us. James (Salty Dog)>
Wes

Refugium and Scooter Blenny
Utilizing a Refugium for Supplemental Food Production  -02/20/08
Hi Crew,
<Hey there, Scott F. with you today!>
First, here are my stats.
<Here are mine- I'm 5' 7", brown hair, I'm a Sagittarius..oh- wait, wrong site!>
Aquarium experience: 2 years
Marine experience: 5 months
Tank System:: FOWLR 30 gallon long, 5 months old, 4 inch sand bed, 40 lbs live rock, Fluval 204 canister filter, AquaC Remora Pro Protein Skimmer with Surface Prefilter, a 2 gallon hang-on-back refugium, etc (powerhead, heater).
Pistol Shrimp, Cleaner Shrimp, small Yellow Clown Goby, Star Blenny, Blue-Green Chromis, and snails. I have a Royal Gramma in quarantine tank right now recovering from ich.
<Good practice to treat the fish in a separate aquarium>
The skimmer and fuge are new additions as of last weekend, and I have not seen any copepods in my tank for months.
<Well, it's going to take a while for them to reproduce in significant numbers.>
My questions are:
1) Can I prepare a good habitat (keep enough copepods) for a Scooter Blenny with my tank size through using the fuge and lots of live rock? Or should the Scooter wait until I move out of my apartment and therefore am allowed to get a larger system? I know you've recommended 100 gallons per copepod-eating fish in an open system, but that seemed to not be accounting for refugia.
<The 100 gallon recommendation is a good one, but not an absolute, in my opinion. It takes into account a sort of hypothetical "production level" of animals that can serve as food sources. The thought is that 100 gallons is sufficiently large to generate enough food for a given fish to consume without competition. A refugium, of course, provides a "safe haven" for the food animals to develop without concern of them being eaten by the Scooter or other fishes as rapidly as they are produced. As such, it will benefit your Scooter if stocked and maintained properly. Without such efforts, a new aquarium is a grim prospect for a fish such as the Scooter, which depends on live foods for a good percentage of its diet. Without a steady supply of these organisms, it is really not a good idea to keep one of these fish, IMO.>
2) If so, how should I set up my small fuge (and the rest of my system) to maximize the copepod population and otherwise best suit the Scooter?
Thanks for the help,
Jack
<Well Jack, you could utilize some pieces of live rock "rubble" (like golf ball to hand-sized), piled loosely in the refugium. The course rock will provide foraging and habitat for copepods. In addition, utilize a macroalgae like Chaetomorpha in the refugium, which affords a suitable substrate for small animals, such as Mysids, to forage and reproduce. The nutrients and uneaten food from your display will provide sufficient nutrition for the developing copepod and Mysis populations. To speed up the productivity, you could "seed" your refugium with some animals from an established system, or you can purchase "kits" of these animals from a variety of e-tailers, which contain starter populations that can get your refugium going. Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.>

Dactylopus dactylopus not eating 01/19/2008
Hi guy(s)
<<Hello, Andrew here>>
My LFS has a Dactylopus dactylopus that I am interested in for my 180 gallon reef tank. He arrived last week and we have been watching him closely. we did not even know what type of fish he was when he came in to the store. after searching your fishbase.org page I found him :) Great tool!! Well anyway we have yet to see him eat.. and I never see him open his tale fin he does look healthy. we have tried all sorts of live and frozen food. So I guess my question is... Do they eat at night? I am guessing they don't if they are anything like the mandarin  (which I have in my 55 gallon reef and he eats some frozen foods Lucky me :) ) Or do you think it is his surrounding... he is housed in a 55 gallon tank with a pebble bottom (I have stated to the LFS they like sand) the only fish in the tank with him is a group of medium size chromis.
Thanks for your time!!! bill
<<These act in the same manner as the mandarin and usually will be constantly feeding itself with copepods from the rock and sand. They are not nocturnal feeders, and when housed in a tank with the correct substrate, will actually bury itself at night, and just have its eye showing. Hope that helps>>
<<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>

Starving Dragonet 12/9/07
I have an established reef tank with a live sand and crushed coral substrate mix that had been established for about a year. In addition to the live sand substrate I have 25 + pounds of live rock. I have had a scooter blenny for about 11 months and it has thrived. Recently though it has changed from a dark gray color to a tan color and lost significant weight. Should I worry or is this natural? Also what can cause this??
<I would worry, you do not have anywhere near the amount of live rock needed to provide food for this fish. He is starving.>
Also around the same time I lost two Nassarius snail without warning. All my water conditions are perfect and I can’t explain what is happening in my tank.
<Any number of things could have caused this. Possibly a hungry hermit crab or just coincidence they died at the same time. Crushed coral is not the best substrate for these snails. >
Thanks for your help.
<You’re welcome. Please read through
http://wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm
and related FAQ’s for more information about what is going on with your fish. Good luck, Scott V.>

Marine Betta and the Mandarin Challenge!!! Feeding  – 09/29/07
Hey Y'all,
I would briefly like to complement Bob on his ability to help me coax my many animals into eating. Especially my notorious fasting Calloplesiops altivelis (aka Marine Betta). Thought I would share with you how I got him to start feeding on frozen foods.
<Please do>
Most of my other fish "sleep" during the night but he is always awake; so, I decided to try and feed him while he had no competition. Tada, he feasted on Selcon soaked midis
<Mysids?>
shrimp and blood worms to his hearts content. After a few days, he realized the food I offered during the day was also possible prey and now comes out to feed. I also bought a few hundred saltwater feeder shrimp. He seems to enjoy the hunt :) and seems to be healthy.
Anyhoo, want to take on the Mandarin Challenge. I want to put a Mandarin in the aquarium I have in my guest restroom. I have been reading about them and I am pretty sure my refugiums can supply them with enough copedes to keep them properly feed. I have about 200gallons of refugiums thriving with copedes
<Copepods...>
and worms and full of Caulerpa. I want to keep him alone in a 20gallon tank full of live rock it has tons of copedes and tiny crustaceans but he will eat all of them in a couple of weeks from what I have read so I wan to tie it into my fishless refugiums. I have a few questions and I don't want to kill the little guy that I end up with.
Is the 20gallon large enough or should I move up to a larger tank?
<Larger would be better...>
I would like to keep it as small as possible. If I tie in my refugiums from my show tank will this feed him properly?
<Maybe... You should be able to see/discern this... thinness...>
If I do this though how would I quarantine him?
<I wouldn't quarantine Callionymids>
If I decide to run him on a system separate from my main setup how large of a refugium would keep the little guy happy and well feed?
<... the bigger...>
I want to set this up and I am going to try and do it right. Also, I am wondering if I couldn't feed the Mandarin the rotifers that I culture for my fish fry?
<Likely too small...>
Do hermit crabs eat copedes
<...>
I have always keep my refuges completely fallow but I was thinking I might stick a few hermit crabs and snails to help keep things clean? I have read though that these little fish can get killed by another inhabitant looking at them crudely.
Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to give,
Zach
<BobF>

Fallow tank, ich, and a hungry Mandarin   9/1/07
Hello all,
First off, let me say thank you for all that you do. I would've left the hobby long ago very frustrated were it not for you all and your efforts.
<I might have too. :) >
Let me quickly get to my question. My main tank came down with ich and following your advice I pulled all fish from the display and am now keeping them in QT. One of the fish in the main display was a Mandarin Dragonet.
My main tank is chock full of pods for him to eat, but I'm afraid I can't say the same for his quarantine tank. I've been hatching brine shrimp for him in the meantime, but I've read that they're not very nutritious. I also started some stand alone pod cultures but it'll be a while before they really get going and that is a viable food source for him.
Given how disease resistant the Mandarin can be, can he safely live in the main tank during the fallow period? By putting him back in am I basically negating all the time that I have had the tank empty? Basically, will he act as a vector to keep the parasite population alive, such that after 6 weeks when I repatriate the other fish they are still likely to get infected all over again. Thanks for your help!
<Just to be safe, you should probably keep the mandarin in the quarantine tank. Baby brine may not be completely nutritious, but if he's eating them, they should keep him going until you can put them all back. Not that it should ever ever happen, but healthy fish can survive weeks without food (just like how healthy people can actually go over a month without food). Feeding the mandarin only baby brine is like feeding a person only cookies and beer for a few weeks. Granted, it's not healthy or ideal, but it shouldn't be too bad for short turn.>
-Fred
<Best,
Sara M.>

Scooter Blenny Woes, fdg.  – 08/28/07
Hi there.
<<Hello!>>
I had a moment of weakness today, and impulsively purchased a very healthy looking Scooter Blenny for my 65g mixed-reef.
<<Mmm, yes...Dragonets can prove problematic to feed properly, even in twice this volume>>
The tank is sump-less, with about 80lbs of live rock and a 4" DSB.
<<The DSB is a plus for the micro-fauna within...but the sump-less design, or more accurately, the lack of a plankton-generating refugium counts against the odds for this fish>>
Half of the rock came from my previous setup, and the other half I bought from the
LFS two months ago, cured. The tank was seeded with the sand from the previous setup. The only other fish is a Royal Gramma and small Maroon Clown.
<<This latter will come to rule (read: terrorize!) this tank in time>>
I know that this fish needs lots and lots of natural, live food.
<<Indeed, or at least until it is trained to a vitamin-soaked alternative...if ever. And even so, this alone will likely not be enough as the fishes dietary requirements are not well/completely understood...thus the need for a natural supply of foodstuffs>>
At the moment, there are tons of "pods" visible on the glass and on the
sand, and I even watched the little guy pick-off a couple (euclid?) worms from the rock.
<<Mmm...don’t know what a Euclid worm is (isn’t Euclid a city in Ohio?). Perhaps you mean “Sipunculid”, aka the Peanut Worm...though I think this to be an unlikely meal for the Dragonet>>
My concern, however, is without a sump or refugium, nor any macro-algae in the tank, will the pod/micro fauna population be able to sustain itself enough to provide an ongoing food source for this fish?
<<Not likely, the fish will eventually consume the breeding population. You may be able to extend/boost the populations with frequent additions of new live rock or retail “pod” cultures, but this will prove tedious/expensive. Perhaps a refugium is in your future...>>
As always, thanks...
Eric
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Mandarin fdg. Mis- over-stocked nano   8/3/07
Hi Bob. Love this site - thank you for this great resource! I have a quick question regarding the Mandarin -
<Mmm, actually there are more than 120 Callionymid species...>
I know that you recommend a tank of at least 100 gallons which can house sufficient live rock to sustain the number of copepods necessary to keep the fish healthy for a prolonged period. I really like this fish, and have been trying to research whether or not he could be kept in a Nano if I frequently added live copepods to the tank to replenish the supply, and, if so, if you could suggest the best product/retailer for live copepods?
<Mmm... there are some outfits that are starting to sell such... but I assure you... growing your own is the only practical, cost-effective means...>
Also, if this won't work, is there any other live food that is proven to work for this fish without fouling the water quality?
<Again... not really/practically... too easy to have human nature result in loss...>
I have a 16 gallon nano with about 20lb of live rock and a 2" live sand bed. Its current inhabitants are a very small cowfish
<... misplaced>
(I am planning on moving him to a bigger tank when he outgrows my Nano),
<Will be dead first... perhaps taking your other stock with it...>
several corals,
<?>
2 snails, 5 hermits, one coral banded shrimp
<... trouble. Stenopids are too predaceous to be kept in such a setting>
and a cleaner shrimp.
<Will be consumed>
In addition to the Mandarin (which I will only add if I can resolve this food issue) I may add a pair of clown fish,
<No my friend. You don't have the space here>
but then I would be done. I perform 10% water changes once a week and have an in-sump CPR skimmer, with the Viper 150watt HQI metal halide clamp-on light. Thank you very much in advance for any advice you can give me. Lindsey.
<I strongly suggest your starting a savings program... ala Dale Carnegie... and buy a much larger system... You've got the "pet-fish fever" (along with the rest of us addicts) that only more useful space can alleviate (temporarily). Bob Fenner>

Re: stocking nano, Mandarin    8/4/07
Thank you for your response. I actually already have 2 larger tanks at home - the Nano is in my office, so a larger tank there is not really an option. Clearly I will rule out the clowns based on your advice, and I will remove the coral banded shrimp.
<Ah, good>
I am a little confused by your comment that I am overstocked. I currently have only one fish (albeit a misplaced cow fish),
<This fish needs a volume times larger alone...>
two shrimp
<The CBS is trouble here...>
and snails and hermit crabs. By way of corals, I have one frag of zoanthids (about 10 polyps),
<Too toxic...>
about 1/2 square inch frag of blue Clavularia, a baby Montipora, about 4 polyps of Lord Acanthastrea and two Ricordea mushrooms. I also have <she cringes in anticipation of a serious trousering> a very small Goniopora.
<Yikes!>
the Goniopora is on the sand and well away from all the other corals. I know you feel strongly about these corals, and I can only say that I was given it as a gift for my bigger tank at home and have imported it to this tank because the clownfish in my bigger tank were messing with it. I am sure you will tell me that its short-term demise is inevitable, and I'm sure you are right about that, but all I can do at this point is learn as much as possible about the coral and try my best to keep it alive.
<And not add to problems I hasten to mention>
I am feeding it liquid life BioPlankton and reef- roids and hoping for the best.
I was also curious about the "human nature resulting in a loss" part of your response.
<Mmm, "to err is human" sort of thing... It seems (more likely absolutely appears) that our species (esp. in the west) is bent of "acquisition" tendency... Consuming, buying, putting more and more... in this case, livestock in any given container>
I am not concerned with the expense of obtaining food for the fish, and if I do get one, I will be committed to its well being - which is why I am asking if -ruling out the cost- the fish can be healthily maintained by purchasing food. I don't feel like I got a clear answer...
<Mmm, let me try again: More than expense, food involved here... The physical size of the world directly bears on the health of what we keep... psychologically often more than physiologically. This tank's too small... Is this clear?>
I don't deny that I have the fever, but I am trying to be responsible (if you rule out the cowfish indulgence). All that said, I have learned so much from your site and I totally appreciate the tough-love
approach. The biggest lesson in my induction into this hobby has been that LFS are seemingly universally staffed by individuals who are either mendacious, overly optimistic or well meaning but poorly informed - your site is a magnificent and much needed resource. Thanks again.
<Ahh, just like presidential et al. public elections... the "consumer" gets what they "pay" for/choose. Thank you for your kind words. BobF>

Re: Mandarin  stkg., fdg.    8/4/07
Thank you. No Mandarin for me, then. Tank is too small :)
<Yay! :! B>

Ocellated Dragonet... fdg. referral   7/21/07
Dear Crew, I have read your site and much FAQ's on the blenny, but unfortunately after I have already bought it. When I first bought this guy, my local store told me it would be fine in my tank. I have a 40 Gallon reef system with a good amount of live rock that currently houses soft corals, an anemone,
<Mis-mixed here... could eat the Dragonet...>
2 false percula clownfish, 1 cardinal fish, 10 hermit crabs, 1 sea cucumber,
<Which species?>
1 brittle star, various snails, and a Ocellated Dragonet. My tank has been set up for a few months, and my water quality is in check, with a salinity of 1.025. I have noticed thought that ever since I got my scooter blenny, the pod population has been alot
<No such word>
harder for me to spot, and the blenny doesn't move around as much anymore, or at least today. I don't know if the pods are just hiding away or they aren't there? Anyway, should I give it back to the store, or can I try feeding live brine shrimp to my system? Finest Regards, Robert Bertino
<Time to read: http://wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Mandarin, fdg. training success    7/19/07
Dear Crew,
<Paul>
After all the free advice I have gleaned from you over the years I thought I would share something I have learned. I have been able to teach a scooter blenny to eat frozen mysis and spurred by that success have taught a Psychedelic Mandarin to eat frozen mysis as well.
<Ahh!>
I have debated writing this to you as I did not want to encourage others to try my experiment and thus possibly doom more of these fishes.
<You are wise here... and compassionate... from the Latin "to bear pain with">
If you choose not to print this in the dailies I will not be the least bit disappointed and quite frankly a little relieved. I have a 30 gallon tank with 35 lbs of live rock and various SPS, Coco worms, T.
Crocea, Zoanthids, and something the LFS called Woods polyps.
<Likely a colloquialism, or local culturist...>
21 gallon custom sump w/refugium, two 5.5 gallon hang on the sump refugiums and Aquatinics T-5 lights. I took plastic gutter guard and formed a cylinder about 2.5"-3" in diameter and 6" long. I sealed one end with more gutter guard and zip ties, packed it with live rock rubble and then sealed the other end. I built three of these and placed one in each refugium I waited about 1 week then took one out squirted it with Selcon and Vita Chem and placed one in the tank near where the Mandarin always hunted. He immediately went to the cage and began picking all the pods that came out. I switched these cages everyday repeating the squirt of Selcon and Vita Chem. After about two weeks I left the same one in the tank for about three days. I took some frozen mysis thawed it then soaked it in Selcon and Vita Chem and squirted it directly on the cage and immediately he went over and began eating the mysis. I have done this to 2 different Psychedelic Mandarins the first one I traded to a friend who could not get his to eat.
I leave one of the cages in the tank behind the rockwork but the mandarin goes after any shrimp that hits the ground anywhere in the tank now. I know the dismal survival rate of these fishes so I began experimenting but I would like to stress I have 3 refugiums plumbed together just in case and mysis is not the sole source of food. Here's the part that may anger you, my coco worms I know they usually don't do well in small systems but they are all on the one year mark and have not popped a top yet. I also have a Leopard Wrasse who is about 6 months and fat. The scooter blenny has hit the 18 month mark and is getting huge. For my SPS I only buffer the top off water and add a scoop of calcium everyday. These are the only additives I add to my tank simple but effective. Weekly water changes and a good skimmer and it all has been working.
This all started because my wife absolutely would not allow a bigger tank but she did say I could add a sump (or three). Now all I need is a Dendronephthya and a Cleaner Wrasse and I'm all set (just kidding).
<Heee!>
Thanks for all the help
Paul
<Thank you for sharing Paul. You have saved many organisms and hobbyist troubles by coming forward with the report of your successes. Life to you my friend. Bob Fenner>

Mandarin hopeful, fdg., sys.    5/16/07
Hi guys, thank you so much for maintaining such a wonderful web site.  I bet you're tired of answering Mandarin questions, but I have another one for you.
  I am another victim of consumer ignorance.  I had a 26 gal reef tank established for about 2 years when I decided I should buy a Mandarin.  I had poor internet service at the time and relied on marine fish books for all my info.  Looking back, I am truly shocked just how little is said about Mandarins being hard to keep.
<Mmm, don't be too surprised (I'm not)... many of the standard works on marine aquarium keeping have been written by non-hobbyists... Folks with very little practical experience.>
So I bought a lovely young Mandarin and introduced him to my tank that housed a pair of clowns, a bi-color angel and a scooter blenny (big mistake I guess since scooters eat the same stuff as Mandarins).
<Yes. Most species sold as such are actually Callionymids... Mandarin/Psychedelic Goby/Dragonet family members...>
anyway I got wise to the whole situation a few weeks after buying the little guy and wasn't surprised when his body weight started to diminish.  After weeks of close examination of the Mandarin, I also came to notice that my scooter blenny was in a bad way as well (sunken in chest area and bone showing a bit).  At night when I turned the tank lights off I could see TONS of copepods swimming around so I was really puzzled as what to do.
<Some such crustaceans are palatable, many are not...>
The pair seemed to
listless to give chase to the creatures, even when the swam right in front of them.  I dosed tigger pods by the bottle, fed numerous frozen foods that were supposedly Mandarin approved...
<If accepted... most specimens need to be trained onto... many don't accept>
grew brine shrimp, etc.  He's stayed about the same.  The blenny on the other hand gained a lot of flesh and is now a very active feeder.   
  Well I have recently upgraded my tank.  I now have a 50 gal (20 sump) tank with tons more live rock and a good deal of sand.  I know Mandarins are recommended to have more, but I'm going to give it a shot.  I've had him for almost 7 mo.s now.  Anyway, it's kind of funny, the blenny and Mandarin are now 'pals' and the blenny seems to encourage the Mandarin to eat the various foods I provide.
<Ah, good>
A few days ago I caught the Mandarin with a huge piece of sponge (from the angel food) stuck in his mouth.  Poor guy took about an hour to eat the thing, but I was happy to see SOMETHING going into him.  He seems more energetic about feeding now, and I know it's mostly owed to the blenny's encouragement.  I know frozen foods aren't the solution, but I think he has more energy to hunt his real sustenance.  My real question is, is it ever too late for a starved fish to recover?
<No, never too late>
I like to think where there's life, there's hope, but looking at my poor skinny Mandarin makes me wonder.  The
blenny has had a complete 360, but are Mandarins of less hearty stock?
<By and large, yes>
  I am starting to feel hopeful because of his recent change in behavior.
  Well thank you so much for taking the time.  
  Alyssa Schladt
<Do consider soaking all applied foods and the water (weekly) with a feeding stimulant (vitamin and HUFA prep.) like Selcon. Life to you my friend. Bob Fenner>

Re: Mandarin hopeful  5/17/07
Thanks for the quick response, I'll stay hopeful for now.  I am setting up a refugium this week and wonder what you recommend to seed it with.... I usually buy tigger pods, but am curious if there might be a more readily accepted species?
<Likely so... but don't think there is something/someone selling such specifically... Almost always the mix of what "comes" from a refugium will suit>
The web sites that sell them are no help!
  Thanks again,
  Alyssa Schladt
<Just try some new/er live rock in the 'fuge... this will seed/inoculate the sand substrate, produce sufficient life... Bob Fenner>

Competing for Copepods. Mandarin in 40 Gallon?  - 4/6/07
Hey WWM Crew.
<Hi.>
I am a huge fan of the site and consult it regularly.
<Awesome.>
I have a question that I am hoping you could give me an answer to.
<Will do my best.>
My current set up is a 6 month old 40 gallon reef tank with 30 lbs. of live rock and 20 lbs. of live sand.
<Cool.>
The fish I have are a pair of true percula clowns, a Yasha haze shrimp goby, and an orchid Dottyback.
<Neat mix.>
I really want to add a mandarin
<Mmm...you won't like my answer then...>
as the final fish but I know how you feel about putting mandarins in anything but a 100 gallon with a refugium.
<Not just us, but others as well...some even feel that the above would not be enough.  Many of us have seen mandarins, more than one, starve in less than suitable environments.>
But I am persistent.
<A good trait to have.>
I was reading the FAQs and found one where someone set up a separate 20 gallon tank as a refugium with live rock, live sand and macro algae for culturing their own copepods.
<An off-line refugium, lots of work but do-able.>
Then every so often supplement the copepod culture in the main tank with copepods from the refugium.
<Would have to be very-often with a mandarin.>
I also had this idea but was just wondering if you thought it would work in my tank or not.
<The odds are not in your favor.>
The only problem I can foresee is the orchid Dottyback eating too many copepods and amphipods before the mandarin gets a chance.
<Yes this would...will be...a problem in even a much larger tank. Not recommended.>
Thank you.
<Of course.>
You guys are life savers.
<Thanks, AJ.>

Mandarin strategy, nutr.   3/28/07
Hey guys, thanks for taking the time to read and reply.  Recently my local LFS got a mandarin dragonette in they were not prepared for (mistake in the order)  my LFS of choice is the most responsible I have ever seen and quarantines all fish before even putting them upfront for sale.  Anyhow, the owner and I pretty much figure this mandarin for a goner, it already has a concave stomach.
<Yikes. Too typical>
Rather than watch it die, I decided to do my best and try and save it, rather than ensure its doom in a LFS tank or that of an inexperienced hobbyist.
I know right out my tank is not large enough to sustain the mandarin, so I have started brine cultures to help put on mass fast - the mandarin will only need a few days to decimate my pod population. I plan on hatching the brine, gut loading w/ phyto for a few hors, then feeding before the yolk sack is gone, using a turkey baster.
I have a culture of tigger pods on the way, and a 30 gallon setup for culture as well.  
<Good>
Eventually I would like to wean the mandarin off live foods, a difficult if not impossible task I know, but it has been done, and I hope, if the mandarin survives the short term I can make a go at long term success.  
<Can be done>
My idea is that if I turn off all pumps and introduce all live foods (pods or brine) via a turkey baster every time, and in the same area, that I might condition a feeding response that could eventually result in me using the baster to introduce Cyclop-Eeze and other frozen/prepared foods.
<Sounds good... I'd add an appetite stimulant to the soaked foods as well>
My nagging concern is that w/ all me and this little fella have stacked against us already, I am forgetting something.  Any thoughts?  If I can only get through a couple of years, he'll have a nice 300 gallon home.
<Mmm, have you read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm
and the linked files above? Bob Fenner>

Happy Mandarin? Not a dish at the oriental restaurant, fdg.    – 03/15/07
Hi WWM crew, thanks for your years of help.
<Welcome>
I have recently inherited a Mandarin from a friend, and would very much like to keep him happy. I am aware of the difficulties associated with feeding these creatures and would like to insure that he has an adequate supply of live food.
<Good idea>
I have a 1.5 year old 75gal. reef with a 10gal. under tank refugium. The total system has about 100lbs of liverock. I also house a Blue Regal Tang, True Percula Clown, Lawnmower Blenny, Sixline Wrasse, and Royal Gramma. I am aware that several of these fish will compete for food supply. Is there really any hope of my successfully keeping this fish with the current tank mates?
<Mmm, yes...>
He is a large specimen (2 ½ in) and is thinner than either of us would like.
For about a week he was very active in the front of the tank, and I would see him suck in (eat?) about 5 times per minute. In the last week he has be become reclusive and spends most of his daylight hours VERY close to a powerhead hidden in the rocks. In the rare event that I can catch a glimpse, he is eating. Is it likely that he has found a wealth of pods and is fatting up?
<Maybe... sometimes this (and other fish groups) become "fixated" in their location, behavior... Maybe more food items are hanging around there...>
He comes out before the lights come on and I think that he is looking good. How quickly could I hope to see weight gain?
<Takes time... weeks...>
My refugium has a DSB and healthy supply of Amphipods and Brine shrimp that are in the Chaetomorpha, but I am not sure how many get in to the main tank.
I realize that the Mandarin can not live on Brine alone, so I would like to proactively promote copepod growth. Is there anything I can do to promote copepods in the refugium, or should I start a separate copepod culture using some of my refugium water?  
<If this animal were/is very thin, I would place it directly in the refugium for now>
If I make a separate culture tank, as discussed on this and other sites, do I need to buy more pure copepod seed packs or will some refugium water suffice?
<The latter>
I am also planning on dumping about a gallon of refugium water into the main tank every week to encourage a pod bloom.
<Mmm, worth trying, but likely will just feed the system a bit more>
Is there anything else that I can do in the main tank to promote copepod growth? If the Mandarin continues to look thin, should I put him in the refugium?
<Ah, yes>
Thanks for your help,
Scott
<And adding another or larger living sump as you state. Bob Fenner>

Hypothetical Mandarin question, fdg.    2/16/07
Aloha all.
    While exploring a new "fish adoption palace" at lunch, I overheard one of the workers telling a customer: "sure you can put a Mandarin in a newly setup tank, all you have to do is wait for it to cycle, then get this stuff called Reef Bugs (TM) off of the Internet and give it a week.
<... at least, last a Weiss product that seems worthy... but no to the mandarin placed in such a setting... of course. Ho buoy!>
  It'll be ready for your little guy right then.  Want me to hold this one for you?"
   <"Nah, put it in my coffee cup, I'll take it with me right now">
    This sounds like pretty bad advice, considering all I have read here and elsewhere.  Upon investigating the mentioned product, it seems that it would not contain 'pods nor black worms, which I understand to be the main food source for Mandarins.
   <Yes... though I have it in good confidence that this pricey number (was $24 buck o las in SC last week) is a/the real thing otherwise. Most Callionymids (species, specimens) can be trained on to non-live foods... but that being stated, most all do poorly on such compared with provision of live, particularly more or less constantly provided live from DSBs, refugiums...>
   Having considered this, how WOULD you feed a picky fish like a Mandarin if you placed him in a featureless quarantine tank (as there'd be no rock for him to graze on...)?
<With frequent additions of live... and/or healthy LR (Q is not treatment, eh?)... Or better still, quick dips and into their main system/s... as stated by moi on WWM, articles, books... a SOP for all such small, likely-to-perish species. BobF>   
  quizzically,
  Darby

Spotted Mandarin Question... fdg., culture tank  - 02/15/07
Hi Crew,
I'm a first time emailer, but have been using the site for some time now to answer all of my questions.  I've got a 30 gallon long tank with protein skimmer, 30lbs of rock, and a 2" DSB.
<Mmm, needs to be about twice this depth>
  From reading past posts I know this tank will not grow enough copepods to support the mandarin.  I am thinking about a 20 gallon copepod culture tank split into 2 sections just in case one of the cultures crashes.  Would this setup support a mandarin?
<Hopefully so... I would "tie in" (plumb) this culture tank into your present display>
  From the other posts I have read from people with similar setups, they have all been using 10 gallon copepod culture tanks and your response is that it is not enough.  Just wondering if an increase in the size of the culture tank makes that much of a difference?
<Yes... more stable... Bob Fenner>

Re: Spotted Mandarin Question  - 02/15/07
Thanks Bob!  I was looking at the mag-drive pumps to return the water to the display.  I know reef systems need to have the water turned over 10x.  My question is, do I factor in the 20 gallon size of the culture tank?
<Mmm, all actual gallonage is added for most types of calculations... however, please do read re circulation issues and Refugiums on WWM... you don't want this much movement through the actual culture area>
So roughly, I would need to turn over 500 gallons (30galln + 20gallon = 50gallon).  Or do I just factor the size of the display tank, only needing to turn over 30 gallons 10x.  It's the difference between the mag-drive 350 or 500.  I will double the thickness of my sand bed as you suggested.  Thanks!!
<Mmm... read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
BobF>

Mandarin in a 20 gallon tank with a refugium   1/30/07
<Greetings, Mich here tonight.>
I am looking into making a refugium for my 20 gallon salt tank.  I have a yellow striped maroon clown, bubble tip anemone, blood red shrimp and coral banded shrimp.  I would like to add a green mandarin to the setup and that would be all I have in there in terms of live stock.  I also have about 15 lbs of live rock and live sand.  I am looking at the refugium both in order to increase the water volume somewhat and to use it for the propagation of pods for the mandarin.  The refugium would have some live sand and rock rubble in it.  If I build the refugium with an overflow return will this be able to move some of the pods into the tank.  I already have a ton of them in the tank but with the mandarin possibly being introduced I want to make sure there is a renewable supply of them.  
<I hate to be the bearer of bad news here, but I just don't think this tank can produce enough microfauna to support a mandarin (Synchiropus spp), especially with only 15 pounds of live rock.  Please reconsider your choice.  This fish will slowly and painfully waste away and eventually perish.  Even with a refugium it is highly unlikely you will be able to provide enough pods to sustain this beautiful fish with such a small setup.
Sorry to be so discouraging,
-Mich>   

Mandarin <fdg., hlth> Question  12/29/06
Thanks for such a great, informative, fascinating web site!!!  I hope I am not wasting your time with info that is already in the archives, but I have read through everything on mandarins and I'm worried about mine. <Lets hear it.> I have wanted a mandarin for quite awhile so we read and starting preparing.  We have a 100 gallon well established tank with 100 pounds plus of live rock and a fuge.  <Sounds like a good home.>  Inhabitants include 2 sebae clowns and a yellow tang, peppermint shrimp, invertebrates, and assorted corals.  Parameters are
ammonia/nitrate/nitrite: 0, pH:  8.1, temperature:  81, SG:  1.025.  The calcium reactor and test kit were ordered for Christmas! <Nice> We thought we were ready for the mandarin and purchased her (I think her based on fin size??) three days ago.  She looked ok in the store, but when we got her home we realized she is VERY skinny.  At the store she was eating brine (not sure if this means she is "trained" or just starving and desperate). <Either, hopefully the former.> She is very active in our tank and appears to be hunting the pods (constantly moving around the rock and pecks at the rock although I cannot see if she actually grabs a pod when she does this).  <Good sign.>  I know mandarins and especially skinny ones have a poor survival rate. <Unfortunately> My question is what is the best way to try and fatten her up?  Should I just leave her to the pods and fate or can I try and supplement with Mysis, bloodworms, etc. even though this is not the nutrition she needs for long term survival? <I would try a little frozen food, preferably the Mysis soaked in Selcon for a little extra boost.  If she takes it so much the better.> I feel like we have an ample pod population esp. with the fuge, but I am worried since I'm starting out with an already compromised specimen.   Thanks for your help!  MLF
<Sounds like you have planned ahead and are ready for this somewhat demanding fish.  Hard to say what its chances are based on your description of its current state, but it seems that your tank has the right conditions for its survival.  Good luck fattening this guy/gal up.>
<Chris>

Great Dragonet Feeding-Tip - 12/04/06
I've received tons of help from this site and just wanted to share something real quick.
<<Okey-Dokey>>
I was worried about a scooter blenny in a 30-gallon with no sump and/or refugium to cultivate pods.
<<Wise to be concerned>>
After trying everything I could from wiggle sticks, live shrimp, turkey basters, etc. to try and get him to eat I finally got something to work.
<<Yay!>>
I have a patch of hair algae that the blenny loves to pick at so I just squirted the frozen Mysis shrimp into the patch and just like that he now eats whatever frozen food I squirt in it.
<<This was very intuitive of you.  These "patches" of alga generally harbor many species of small crustaceans and worms...just what the blenny hunts for food.  Placing the thawed frozen shrimp here was an excellent way to entice the blenny to feed!>>
I'm just starting out and hopefully this helps others the way you folks have helped me.
<<This is excellent advice to anyone attempting Synchiropus species>>
Thanks,
Paul
<<And many thanks to you.  EricR>>

A Quick Thanks... Scooter Blenny eating   12/2/06
Dear Crew,
<Hey Paul, JustinN with you tonight.>
Thanks for the great advice my fish and myself have benefited greatly.  My tank houses various corals, fish, and invertebrates.  I was worried about my scooter blenny in a 30 gallon but have now gotten him to eat mysis shrimp thanks for the advice.  
<Excellent to hear, too bad more of these dragonets don't have such success...>
Now if I could only find the pistol shrimp I hear him but haven't seen him, oh well.
<Try Google searching for pistol shrimp extraction methods, you will likely find some information of use here.>
Thanks for the advice and the FAQ's as they have been the best source of info on the net.
Paul
<Thanks for the kind words, Paul. Always good to hear of continued success of our fellow hobbyists. -JustinN>

Mandarin sys., fdg.    11/28/06
Hello!
<Hi there from another Michelle!>
It's yet another question about green mandarin dragonets.  I know they need sufficient live rock for an ample supply of copepods, <This is true.>  but am unsure if mine is enough.  It's a 95 gallon with 90 pounds live rock.  <Seems ok in theory.>  Current
fish are a Naso tang (we know she will eventually need a larger tank, <Yes, saw several in Hawaii that were "scary big".>
yellow tang, and two Sebae clowns.   The tank has assorted corals, a peppermint shrimp, 2 sally light foot crabs, and 2 green crabs.  Is this enough live rock for one specimen?  <Many variables...how large is the current population of copepods, how prolific will they be in your system, is there a refugium connected to the tank,  individual variation with the individual fish....>  Could the green crabs eat the mandarin? <Yep.  I personally wouldn't trust any crab.>   How safe is skipping the quarantine procedure in light of the need for live rock?  <You could quarantine with live rock in a separate vessel, you may need to add pieces of LR throughout the QT period.>  Thanks!  <You're welcome.> Michele

Scooter Blenny - 11/09/06
Dear crew,
<<Hello!>>
I've read and read your site and all your FAQ's on the blenny.  My LFS (considered by most as the premier store in St. Louis) said a scooter blenny (Ocellated dragonet) would be fine and I trusted them.
<<Mmm ok, Synchiropus ocellatus...one of best/maybe THE best choice of dragonets for captive keeping...still needs a mature, peaceful aquarium of adequate size with plenty of live rock/a DSB and preferably...an in-line refugium>>
I asked them about the mandarin because it was a nice looking fish but they told me it was impossible with my setup and recommended the blenny.
<<Synchiropus ocellatus is a dragonet and is of the same family (Callionymidae) as the "mandarin."  The "scooter blenny" is a much better choice than the mandarin (kudos to your LFS), but is still not "easily" kept>>>>
They have been pretty honest with me and have even declined to sell me certain fish because they know my tank.
<<Excellent to read!>>
I have researched every fish and invertebrate and coral I own but went with their opinion on this one (went to the store to get R/O water came home with a fish).
<<Hee-hee!>>
Here are my stats:
30 gallon, PC 96 watt light, 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites, 10-20 ppm Nitrates, 8.3 pH, 8-10 dKH, 20 Calcium,
<<...?!>>
300 Penguin Bio-Wheel power filter, Prizm Skimmer (I know bad choice),
<<Mmm...an AquaC might be in your future>>
75 GPH flow head w/aerator, 40 lbs live rock, 1.023 salinity,
<<Do bump this up to 1.025/026...especially with corals/inverts in the system>>
78 degrees
One clam (T. crocea) 6" inches from surface about 8" from the lights, 3 peppermint shrimp (has not nipped anything), 2 fire shrimp, 1 skunk cleaner (no nips on anything), 3 green chromis 1", 1 yellow watchman goby 1", 4 Astrea, 8 turbo, various polyps, brain corals, xenia.  Allelopathic issues have not surfaced yet and everything seems to be growing and doing well.
<<Hmm, wouldn't think Allelopathy to be much of an issue either with the corals you list>>
My tank has amphipods because they are all over the rocks, glass, and everything else.  The snails have laid eggs all over the glass in a strange zigzag pattern.  Macro-algae is growing profusely and I've trimmed them back (a little overfeeding issue but I do 5-gallon changes every week with saltwater from the LFS).  Coralline algae is starting to cover everything.  He continually eats and has gotten bigger but after reading I know he will eventually starve.
<<Likely true I'm afraid...this tank is really too small for the long-term health of this amusing little fish>>
I am trying to train him to eat frozen mysis shrimp.
<<Excellent...might I suggest you soak the thawed shrimp in Selcon or Vita-Chem for the added nutritional value as well as possibly increasing its attraction as a food item>>
Now my question:  There is another store that sells live glass shrimp and live brine shrimp.  Can I add these to my tank and hope they breed and will the blenny eat the nauplii as a result?
<<They won't establish and breed in you display...and the glass shrimp will be too large to be off use "as is"...but you might want to try getting some live brine shrimp and "gut-load" them before offering to the tank.  Add the Selcon product I mentioned to the water holding the brine shrimp and let them "feed" on this for 24 hours before releasing them in your tank.  This will provide the scooter blenny with the much needed HUFAs/fatty acids that are other wise absent in adult brine shrimp>>
Should I give him back and not impulse buy again?
<<This is another option>>
He has been here for 5 weeks (1 week QT because I could not get him to eat) and there are still visible amphipods.
<<Likely the ones that are "too big" for it to ingest.  These fish browse/feed constantly and even a single specimen can/will decimate the available food population very quickly in such a small tank>>
I have left the big patches of stringy algae, which he guards profusely that seem to house the majority of these little bugs.
<<Indeed>>
I apologize for the length of my letter but you guys have saved my and many fish.
<<No worries>>
My yellow watchman loves mysis shrimp and actually has gotten his head stuck in the turkey baster going for them.
<<Ha!>>
Please advise and I will defer to your knowledge and experience.
<<You have my opinions>>
Paul
<<Regards, EricR>>  

New Mandarin in quarantine - how to keep sustained until move to main tank?   11/6/06
First of, definitely would like to thank you all for a fantastic resource, and especially to Bob Fenner for his awesome book, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist.  I've had my 90 gallon reef tank with a corner overflow and 20 gallon sump set up for just over a year.  The CMA was instrumental in helping me get going and continuing to maintain my tank.  I'm just about to order "Reef Invertebrates vol 1" as well.
<Thank you for your kind, encouraging words. Mean much>
I picked up a healthy looking mandarin last night from my LFS.  It is currently in quarantine in my 12 gallon AquaPod.   He's nibbling (I think) at some algae on the glass, but it could be pods.
<Yes... likely "aufwuchs"...>
The AquaPod nano has live sand, a couple of small chunks of live rock and was nearly completely filled with water from my main tank over the past 2 weeks as I've done water changes (approx 10 gallons through water changes, 2 gallons of "fresh" but aged salt water).   
I have a ball of Chaeto in the nano that was in my sump and some dragon's tongue macro algae as well.
My main tank has a ton of copepods in the sump, overflow and throughout my ~120-150 lbs of live rock.   I believe the Chaeto ball had a small colony of pods in it prior to moving it into the nano.
My main question is how to keep the mandarin alive/fed while in quarantine?  
<Mmm... actually, I'd like to make a plug/push for your expediting this quarantine... Callionymids rarely harbor parasites, problems that such isolation improves>
I'm hoping I can entice it to eat pellets or something other than live pods,
<Not likely>
but I also don't want to move it to my main tank too soon and risk my main tank with some kind of unknown LFS infestation.  I'm also thinking of adding some zooplankton/phytoplankton (dried and DTs) to the nano to help feed the pods.
<Mmm, keep your eye on the apparent thinness of this specimen...>
Additionally, as I do my next water change I'll take 5 gallons from my main display and add it to the nano.  Also, I was thinking of splitting the Chaeto ball in half, rinsing and adding one half to my main tank for a day or two and then swapping it out with the other one, rinse and repeat every 2-3 days.
<Good idea>
The Wet-web Media mandarin FAQs suggested that only 2 week quarantine period was needed for the mandarin.
<Yes... this or even less>
Any comments, suggestions or ideas?
Thanks again,
Steve
<I would be bold and move this animal to your main/display system if it appears to have a "low index of fitness". Bob Fenner>

 

Re: New Mandarin in quarantine - how to keep sustained until move to main tank?   5/8/06
Bob, honored to have your reply.
<... welcome!>
Unfortunately I wasn't able to put into action your recommendation to move the mandarin from quarantine to my display tank.  Sometime between 10pm last night and 6:30am this morning the mandarin disappeared without a trace.
<Yikes... must have "jumped out" somehow>
It is very strange as the nano/quarantine she was in was tightly enclosed, there wasn't much space to hide in - just a few pieces of PVC and some small golf-ball sized live rock - and there were really no other creatures that could have disposed of the body (just a small porcelain crab also in QT).  I tore the tank apart, including removing all the stuff from the chambers of the tank but there was nothing to be found.   
<... somewhere...>
Anyway I think I'm better prepared for the next attempt.  My quarantine/initial isolation checklist now includes:
1) Ensuring I have a wad of "sacrificial Chaeto" charged with a load of pods from my main tank
2) Ready access to live brine shrimp (low quality food is better than no food)
3) Adding a copepod starter if available:
http://www.reed-mariculture.com/copepod/index.asp or http://oceanpods.com
<Both good companies, people, with real products>
4) Ready access to blood worms - many folks reported that theirs would eat live blood worms
<Yes>
Alternatively to 2 & 3, am possibly thinking of having a supply of copepod culture ready.  Reference copepod culturing (about half-way down) http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/breeder2.htm or
http://www.reed-mariculture.com/copepod/
Thanks again.
Ps - Made my first batch of food from the basic recipe in the CMA this weekend.  My tank LOVES it - I can't believe I didn't make it sooner.
Regards,
Steve
<And what a bargain price-wise per unit unit! Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Mandarin Feeding 9/7/06
Hi again,
<Hello>
I have two (yes TWO) very healthy (fat and happy) mandarins in our 75G reef tank (tank over a year old). <Good to hear.>   They always have a healthy supply of live pods getting supplied from two refugiums. <The key to success with these finicky eaters.>  However, l have noticed them readily eating the frozen brine shrimp which get past the seahorses and make it to the bottom.   Is this just a "junk food" item for them. <Mostly>  I guess what I'm asking is, if I stopped culturing pods for them, would they remain healthy eating the enriched brines I feed to some of the other inhabitants?
<Probably would not be enough to keep them healthy long term.  You have a successful setup currently, would stick with what is working so well.>
Thanks
James
<Chris>

Culturing Pods for Mandarin Dragonet   7/28/06
Hi there,
   I've a question regarding Mandarin Dragonets and the  feeding of this finicky fish.  I would like to add one to my 46 gallon  bowfront tank. It is a very mature tank.  I've currently got about 75  lbs of live rock in the tank and about 3 inches of live sand.
  Right now  the tank is loaded with copepods and mysis shrimp.  I see them scurrying  around constantly.  I do have a small 6
line wrasse in the thank that will soon be moved to my 29 gallon reef tank.  
I'll also be adding a 29 gallon  tank as a refugium to the bowfront.
<Ahh, very good>
In the refugium, I'll have  livesand, rubble rock and Chaeto.  
    I'd also like to set up a 10 gallon tank to  culture pods in.  I've got 2 different plans for doing this.  I'd like  your advice on both please.  
#1 is to line the tank with quart mason jars that each contain some livesand, a little rubble rock and some Chaeto.  The water level will be  kept a few inches above the top of each jar.  I'll then seed the entire  tank with copepods and mysis shrimp.  I'll also have a small powerhead  going in the tank.
<Mmm, an air-powered sponge filter would be better/best... the splice and dice action of the powerhead will reduce the small crustacean population>
My thoughts are that as the pods and shrimp grow and  reproduce, I can remove a jar and pour the water off into the refugium or main  tank. I'd then return the jar to the 10 gallon to repopulate.
<Mmm, we'll see... likely the jars will be too much trouble, and unnecessary>
I've  heard that I may have a problem with evaporation and a rise in salinity using  this method.  I'm not sure how
that would happen faster with the jars than  without.   
#2 is to just use the 10 gallon with live sand, rubble rock and  Chaeto but without the jars.  
<This would be my option...>
I'm just not sure how I'd go about removing  the pods to feed to the fuge or main tank though.
<"Tie" the ten in with the 29 refugium somehow...>
One thing that's been  suggested to me is to take 4 to 6 sponges, get them wet with the tank water,  crush some flake
food into them and place them in the tank.  Then as they  populate with pods, remove a sponge and put it in the fuge or main tank for a  few days and then replace into the culturing tank for repopulation.  With 4  to 6 sponges, I'd think that I could rotate them and keep a good supply of  pods.  
<Worth trying>
Do either of these plans sound reasonable?
<This second much more than the first>
  Also, in  plan 2, can you suggest any other means of removing pods from the culture tank  for feeding?
<Vacuuming, mass water changes...>
My last few questions concern the refugium.  My bow tank  is not drilled so I'll have to come up with some way to move water from the  display tank to the refugium and then back to the display tank.  Any  suggestions?
<Posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/overfloboxfaqs.htm
and the linked files above>
Do I need to
section the refugium off into different  compartments or can I just add lots of Chaeto and let it grow?
<Can/could>
I'll  also have lighting on this tank.
<... good idea: http://wetwebmedia.com/refugltgfaqs.htm>
I would also like to put my skimmer into  the refugium but am I better off leaving it on the display tank?
<Mmm... not necessarily... though would situate in an anterior/first water arrangement
I have a  Remora Skimmer with an overflow/pre-filter box.  
Any advice you're able to  give would be greatly appreciated!!  Thanks.   
Michael
<Bob Fenner>

Wrong shipment. Mandarin health, nutrition   7/18/06
Hey crew,
<Eric>
I just received a wrong shipment from an online supplier.  I just wanted to get some snails for my 200 gallon tank.  I can never seem to
find the quantity that I am looking for in the area.  Well the company sent me a whole bunch of fish instead.  (they are going to send my
original order now)  I think I can care for the fish except for the Mandarin Dragonet since he is in my QT I really don't have a food source for him.
<Very bad... I would consider moving, shortening the quarantine time for this fish... to move it to your main display system... for the food organisms likely there>
I was wondering if I can just go down to the ocean and scoop out some pods and zooplankton and put those in the tank for him to eat?
<Not really a good idea. Way too likely a chance of introducing undesirable organisms, pollution...>
Is that a very good idea?  I have ordered some food for him online, but I think the order is going to take a few days to get here.  I don't
think he is doing to well, and he wasn't very health to begin with.
<Mmm, are tough animals really... If not really "very skinny" can/will hold off till the food arrives>
Thanks for the help.  My reef tank is coming along great thanks to you guys.
Eric V
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/manddisfaqs.htm
and consider foreshortening QT for this animal. Bob Fenner>

Live Food Culture/Mandarin Systems - 07/13/06
Dear Crew,
<<Hello Paul>>
I have two questions pertaining to culturing live food within the main reef aquarium:
<<Okay>>
(1) What live foods are practical for culture within the main tank?
<<Depending on your setup/livestock, some organisms can/will reproduce (mysids, amphipods, copepods, various alga, etc.).  Maintaining sustainable populations is largely dependent upon allowing said populations to establish and grow without predation in the early stages (i.e. - leaving the tank "fishless" for the first 12 months), and then not overstocking the tank with active predators of these organisms>>
I am looking for small invertebrates that can thrive and reproduce in a reef aquarium with Mandarin Dragonets or other fish that feed on them and do not require phytoplankton or special foods.
<<The micro- and macro-crustaceans from your live rock would fit this description.  But you need a large and "mature" system to provide enough food items to wholly sustain even one mandarin for the long term.  Just how "large" a system is open to speculation, but my opinion is a minimum tank size of 75 gallons with plentiful live rock and a DSB, and all not less than a year old>>
(2) What invertebrates can thrive within the same reef aquarium as a Mandarin Dragonet and are prolific enough such that their larvae can help feed the Mandarin?
<<The afore mentioned copepods, mysids, and amphipods can all be "prolific enough" in a large enough system.  The key here is the size and maturity of the system.  The tank/environment has to be large enough that the mandarin can continuously feed as needed without depleting the food populations.  Something that usually happens very quickly in a too small system.  The addition of a "plankton" generating refugium can be a big help towards keeping these beautiful fishes (as well as other delicate or difficult organisms)...but in my opinion should be viewed as an adjunct to providing a proper environment...not a substitute for same>>
Thanks very much,
Paul.
<<Quite welcome, EricR>>