T5 Compaq combo? 5/5/09
Reef Lighting
Hello Crew,
<Hello William>
I'm completely confused by the mixture of info and lack of numbers to judge by when dealing with light bulb types, and I could use your help (and please correct me if I list something as a fact that is actually wrong).
<OK>
I have a 72 gal bowfront tank, which is 48" long by 13" deep by 24" tall.
I also have the Coralife (Oceanic) 48 " deluxe light with Compact Fluorescents. It comes with 2- 24", 10k, 65 watt bulbs and 2-24" actinics (which I assume are 65watt as well), for a total of 230 watts of lighting.
I've been told this isn't enough for sps.
<Would be borderline for most light loving SPS corals, but there are a few species this lighting could support. Most etailers will list light requirements for species of corals they sell. In your case, based on the depth of your tank, corals requiring "moderate" light should survive in your system.>
I've taken LUX readings with the CF (don't have a par meter yet). Just below the water surface it's 5800 LUX , and my sandbed is at 1300 LUX. I converted LUX to PAR (but I haven't found any listing for the compact florescent coefficient to use so this is a guess) and get something like 116 at top and 26 at the bottom.
<Photosynthetically Active Radiation, often abbreviated PAR, designates the spectral range of solar light from 400 to 700 nanometers that photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of photosynthesis.
This spectral region corresponds more or less with the range of light visible to the human eye. Since we use lamps of the proper Kelvin temperature, I would be more interested in LUX values rather than PAR values for our purposes. I might add not to confuse lumens with Lux. Lumens is the total amount of light that a lamp is capable of generating, usually available on either the lighting package or from the manufacturer's data sheets. There are two values usually quoted for fluorescent tubes: initial lumens and design lumens. Initial lumens describe how much light it produces when first turned on. Design lumens describe how much light it will produce for a much longer term. After an initial 20 percent drop in brightness, the light output will slowly decrease over the lifetime of the tube. Lux is a unit of measure equal to lumens per square meter or, a measure of the actual intensity of the light falling over a specified area.
Because Lux depends on how the light gets from the bulb to the area, it can not be specified by the manufacturer, but must be measured by the aquarist.>
I need to bump my lighting in the tank. I want to add a single strip T5 HO fixture. This housing will be 3 inches wide, which is all the real estate I have left to sit a light on top of the tank. I estimate this new light will cost me around $140.
So here's the problem.
I can't figure how much more PAR this will add to the tank, and therefore whether it's worth it. I don't want to waste money by adding a light that really won't be felt, but I don't have the ready cash available to buy a whole new lighting system. I don't understand how to judge watts to PAR <Watts has nothing to do with PAR. The watt is used to specify the rate at which electrical energy is dissipated, or the rate at which electromagnetic energy is radiated, absorbed, or dissipated.>
between Compaq's and T5s and MH. Any help?
<If keeping SPS corals is your goal, I would wait till you have enough cash to replace the unit with a twin 150 watt HQI lighting system. Adding an additional T5 lamp for 140 bucks would not be a good investment.>
From what I've read, the new T5 HO's are just as good as MH's these days.
Is this true?
<Yes and no, will depend on the depth of tank and number of lamps used. In shallow tanks such as yours, the T5 HO is a good way to go. I personally like the look of metal halide lighting.>
If so, how do you judge how many bulbs you need? As I stated my tank is 48" long, 24" tall and 13" deep.
And lastly how do Compaq's compare to T5 HOs straight up?
<The T5's, in my opinion produce a larger light distribution pattern and produce more lumens watt for watt.>
Are 2, 24" 65watt 10k Compaq's equal to 1-48" T5 HO?
<No, we are comparing 130 watts to 54 watts.>
Are the CFs 1/2 as strong as the T5 HO?
<I don't believe to that margin, again, watt for watt.>
Are compacts equal to the older T5s?
<Likely close, but the T5's have an edge on efficiency.>
These are the kind of facts I could use right now.
<I suggest you read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Lighting and DSB…T5 vs. MH – 03/17/09
Hello everyone.
<<Hiya Steve>>
I am looking into upgrading from an Aquapod to a larger system. The wife has 1 unchangeable limitation of length being a maximum of 36".
<<I see (dang women [grin])>>
So what I am contemplating is either a 36"x24"x24" which is 90 gallons or 36"x24"x18" which is 65 gallons.
<<Same footprint, eh…might as well go for the added volume then, especially if considering a DSB>>
Also she wants a canopy for her own aesthetic reasons.
<<Okay>>
I would like to be able to keep clams and various types of corals. I will be using at least 1.5lbs per gallon of LR,
<<Do be sure to leave room for the fishes to swim/corals to grow>>
refugium, sump.
<<Excellent…and both can be used to house live rock (if needed) to keep the display from being overcrowded re>>
I would rather avoid a chiller.
<<Okay>>
I live in Orange County Southern California and the normal temp is under 90 most of the time. I do have AC in the house. I would also like to keep my electric bill down.
<<Wouldn’t we all…>>
I would rather have the 90 gallon tank of course and this brings me to my question. If I go with the 24" deep tank and 4" DSB would a 8 X 39 Watt T5 HO lighting system with 4 10k bulbs and 4 actinic be enough to penetrate <to> clams <and> corals at sand level or would I have to go metal halide?
<<With some caveats, yes… I would recommend a 6 to 2 ratio of 10K and Actinic bulbs. I would also suggest “individual” reflectors for the T5s if possible, along with placement close to the water’s surface. Do also consider the careful placement in the water column of livestock based on species/lighting requirements>>
If metal halide should I use 2 175watts or 2 250watts?
<<The smaller wattage would suffice>>
Should I decide to go with the shallower tank then could I use the T5's?
<<Not necessary…especially considering the addition of the DSB>>
Also should I have a lid between the lights and water?
<<I would not place anything over the tank to hinder light transmission OR gas exchange>>
I also don’t mind installing fans in the canopy if necessary.
<<I would figure on doing this…regardless of the lighting option you choose>>
Also if T5 setup is ok will it penetrate <to> the DSB?
<<Yes>>
My last question pertains to lighting as well; depending on what light setup you recommend the canopy is available in 2 different heights 10" and 12"?
<<If your preference is the T5 lighting, choose a canopy that lets you mount these closest to the water’s surface (ideally, within 3-4 inches). If you choose metal halide, either canopy will likely serve>>
Thanks for all your help.
Steve
<<Happy to share... EricR>>

Lighting Choices... reef  9/26/08
Hi everyone.
I have a lighting question for you. I have looked at your site but the more I look the more I get confused. I was reading this article from Bob
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
and it states in his opinion that full spectrum florescent lighting VHO is the best most appropriate lighting.
<In some situations, less so nowadays.>
But then when I read more into other articles others there answer say that PC and VHO are basically the same but PC has more density than VHO but Metal Halide would be the way to go.
<Again, it depends on your system and livestock.>
This is my plan and then you can give me an idea if you don't mind. I have a 55g that I want to move over to a 125g AGA that I got a few months ago. I have finally finished the sand bed and plumbing and want to start on the light. The light I have now on my 55 is a Odyssea 260w CF and I don't think that will be enough of my 125. I am going to build a canopy and was planning on pulling the fixture apart to put in there but again I don't think that is enough. I was planning on putting some DIY MH till now. It has a 6in sand bed right now. All my stock is still in my 55 which is a 4ft Zebra Eel (reason why I need to switch to my 125) 1 Clown, few Dempsey, Angel, butterfly and yellow tang and a few sps.
<Yep, time to upsize!>
I want to be able to really stock this once its up and going to lots of coral.
<What corals do you wish to keep?>
What is you recommendation on the light and how much (wattage, quantity, etc..)Also don't want something that will bring my electric cost up. Single parent.
<More wattage equals more power used regardless of bulb type. For what you are looking to do you may want to consider T5 bulbs. They tend to impart less heat into the water and are as energy efficient that you can get right now (except for LEDs, but these are big money). How much wattage depends on what you wish to keep. A little research on your part regarding your desired livestock will answer this.>
Been doing this for about 5-6years so I'm not really new to all this.
Thanks!!
Bill M
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Odd Lighting Question revised (sorry guys and gals), SW fixture choices, reefs...  9/25/08
Hello crew, hope you all are well.
<I am here, thank you.>
So I have a lighting question for you. I have a 60 cube that is 30" long x 24" tall x 18" wide. I was using two t5 lighting units, both 48 watts. I recently upgraded to a SunPod 30". Its a 150 watt MH with all the LED's ( very happy to have those for night time viewing). I took the t5's down, but after chatting with some reefer friends that use other types of lights with there MH's, I started to think about maybe using the t5's with the MH SunPod. Would you recommend this?
<You could, its up to you. Most use T5 actinics with MH to “blue” the water a bit more and make the livestock fluoresce a bit. Realize that all light transfers some heat to the tank, even T5s.>br>I am not doing any sps, just softies, LPSs, polyps, and Shrooms. Also, I have read/heard never to remove the center plastic beam on the top of the tank, and I haven't, but it casts a shadow in the center of the tank from the MH. What's your take on that black plastic beam?
<I hate the danged things, but if your tank was designed with it leave it be.>
I am hanging the MH pendant about 10" above the tank, do you think
I should lower it?
<7-10” is about right.>
Also because my tank is so tall would I benefit from lowering the light, as well as using the t5's?
<What you list will be fine with the light you have, but the T5s will not hurt anything either. They can have quite an impact on the look of the tank depending on bulb choice.>br>Also, given the right conditions how long does it usually take coal to grow/propagate?
<Depends on the coral.>
II have notices some of my zoo's grow new polyps, but my hammer hasn't gotten any bigger or shown any signs of new growth. I also have never had Mushroom reproduce either. I have heard stories of people putting mushrooms in a tank and two weeks later splitting occurs. All my water parameters are in line and I test and change water religiously. I feed the coral with DTS 3 times a week. Any suggestions?
<Mushrooms do appreciate more of an indirect, subdued light and current. These are one of those corals that can grow like gangbusters in ill maintained systems and just be there in immaculate tanks. More info at the link below and linked pages above on the page.>br> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm
Thanks again guys and thanks for your continued support and information. This site has been a wealth of information for me over the past year.
<Heee, thank you and welcome!>
Spencer Hall
<Scott V.>

Lighting.... again. 9/5/08
Hello, friends!
<Hey there Thomas.>
Sorry I do not have the prior emails to accompany this, I'm using a web based email at this time.
<It is a world of difference sometimes.>
The long and short was that I am setting up a reef tank 36" long and 24" deep (top to bottom). The tank is a 65 gallon tank. I do plan to keep softies and stonies as I read more about them. I've exchanged emails with a crew member there, and had initially decided on an 8 bulb T5HO fixture for this tank. One thing he mentioned that has me hesitant, is that they won't produce that 'shimmer' that is so amazing in nicely done reef tanks.
<Nope, not like the MH will.>
I've read your FAQ on medium system metal halide lighting, and I've looked at several fixtures... none really match my setup in the FAQ. The fixture I'm looking at has dual 175w halides with two 65w CF bulbs. I need to go with two bulbs due to the center brace.
<I love these tanks, but the center brace is a pain.>
Think this is adequate for lighting?
<Oh yes, you will have quite a bit of overlap in the middle of the tank, suitable for your higher light needing corals.>
There is a unit that has dual 250w halides, but I'm thinking that may be a bit excessive.
<This can work too, but will be quite a bit of light and heat to manage with this spread.>
The T5HO is still an option, I'm just fascinated by that shimmer....
<I hear you, I fought it for years. Recently I have finally given in and honestly would never go back. I just personally like the T5. Others have tried the same and go back to halides. If you are the type that does not mind a slightly higher power bill along with a chiller, then IMO it really does come down to the shimmer. Do you want it or not? I used to think I could not live without…now it is no problem.>
Best regards!
Thomas
<I hope this helps you decide. For what it is worth, the LED lighting is quickly advancing and will likely be the standard within the next few years. At the moment it is expensive, but LEDs do combine the advantages: low heat of T5 with the shimmer much like the MH, a lower power cost of either, no bulb replacement, along with some amazing adjustability in the current units out there. Something to consider/watch out for in the next few years. Cheers, Scott V.>

Re: Lights question   8/29/08
Aloha bob
I have gone through the FAQs many times.
My question is I don't understand the difference between these technologies.
Couldn't get out of Google or Wikipedia too.
<? What do you mean by "couldn't get out?">
I apologise for not being clear with the question though.
Will zoas shrooms and a moon coral thrive in a cfl lit tank of 16 inch water column depth when lights are 6 odd inches away from the water level?
<Yes, can>
So many say MH is needed and so many say otherwise. Driving me nuts.
I see you recommend full spectrum T12s.
<I have at times, places... There's a bit more to any given "equation" of determining a "good fit" for lighting (and other gear)... To wit: what are your intents (not needs)... IF you're trying to maximize growth, reproduction, repair from fragmenting... MH is very likely a/the route to go... perhaps with even some "natural" light... But, if you simply want to keep these sorts of Cnidarians "successfully", less photonic energy is fine, preferable in terms of not "over-driving" other factors (e.g. temperature, biomineral content...) and increasing the cost of operation of your system>
I just do not want to go to MH unless necessary due to the heat issue.
Cheers
Ranjith
<I understand, and agree. Bob Fenner>

T5 vs. Metal Halides 6/28/08
I first want to say what a wonderful site and thank you for all the help you have been so far.
<Great, glad the site has been of help, thank you!!>
My question is about the debate over T5 and MH.
<Can be a quandary.>
I have a 300 gallon 96L X 24W X 30H. I am currently running 4-250 watt MH and was wondering if two Tek 48" 8 bulb 54-watt fixtures would be a better choice.
Everyone I talk to is worried about the 30" depth will this be a problem with T5.
<Neither is the 250W MH depending on bulb choice and what you put near the bottom. It is all about placement.>
I am planning on keeping all sorts of LPS, SPS, Clams, Mushrooms, etc. . I know the corals that need the most lighting will need to be placed at the top but will the 16-54 watt T5 be enough.
<I feel it is. With any light the placement comes into play, but you will have similar lighting with these T5 fixtures as you have now.>
My main issue with the MH is heat and electricity, I know I will lose the shimmer but will I also loose the heat and electricity?
<Yes, to some extent. Don’t expect an earth shattering difference in you power bill. The halides you run now consume 1000 watts (likely about 1200W in reality, depending on bulb and ballast), while the T5’s you propose will pull very close to what they are rated,
Thanks for a wonderful site, 864 in this case. This does definitely add up over time, but you have to consider that you already own the MH’s!! As for the cooling, the bulb’s heat is spread through the bulb in either case, the T5’s just spread it over a longer area. This does translate into less heat your tank will absorb, especially with fans running between the bulbs and water. The other factor is cost of replacing the bulbs. The T5 bulbs should last a bit longer than the MH, giving a slight edge to them here (this again depends highly on what bulbs you do use). I must say I am a huge proponent for the T5’s, but do not use them due to my addiction to the shimmer!>
Brad
<I hopes this helps you decide, Scott V.>

A quick thank you! 05/29/2008
Hello,
I wanted to send a thank you for answering my lighting question. I really appreciate all of the hard work undertaken by the WWM crew. My ability to care for our tank in a responsible and informed manner has greatly improved since finding this website. The families, teachers, and foster grandparent volunteers at my workplace, a non-profit child care center with 160 children ages 6 weeks through 6 years, enjoy a thriving, beautiful tank each day.
With regard to my lighting question, I decided to go ahead and change the tank lighting to T5 lighting, as per my question. was promptly answered by A. Nixon on 04/05/08. We ordered the lighting through one of the advertisers on the WWM website, marine and reef.
The fixture was $200 less than what my LFS was offering and included free shipping. We ordered it on a Monday, they verified the shipping address on Tuesday, shipped it on Wednesday, and it arrived on Friday! It is now all set up and doing well. We have noticed things we never noticed before, sponges and brittle sea stars etc., because we couldn't see in the darker rock crevices. We love the new lights and thank you again for your advice.
Sincerely,
Kim
<<Its my pleasure Kim, I am really glad to hear everything is well and new aspects of viewing pleasure are now being explored. Kind Regards, A Nixon>>

Light Conversation (Lighting Upgrades)  5/29/08
I have a 90 gal glass tank, 48x24Dx18. It's been setup for about 3 months. 100 lbs live rock, sand bottom, wet dry filter, 25w Aqua UV light. Reef Devil protein skimmer, MRC CR1 calcium reactor and a 1/4 hp Oceanic chiller. Live stock consists of 3 Blue/Green Chromis, 2 False Percula Clowns, 1 Firefish, 1 Yellow Tang, 1 Blond Naso Tang, 1 Exquisite Wrasse, 1 Flame Angel, 1 Coral Banded Shrimp, 1 Red Serpent Star, and 50 Hermit Crabs.
<A nice mix of fishes, but we need to rethink the Naso Tang. This fish requires a very large aquarium (hundreds of gallons) in order to live anything close to a natural life span, and really needs to be given away to an aquarist who has the facilities to keep this fish for the long run. Just a gentle reminder! Scott F., your conscience, in today..>
Corals consist of 1 Open Brain, 1 Frogspawn, 1 Trumpet Coral, 1 Moon Brain, 3 small Ricordea and a small assortment of Mushroom corals. Water movement is accomplished with 2 Maxijet 1200's with mod kits along with the return line run from a Dart pump. Currently my lighting is 4- 96w pc's, 2 10k and 2 actinic mounted in a closed hood about 7" off the surface of the water with 2- 3" fans, 1 pulling and 1 pushing. I would like to upgrade my lighting.
<A good idea. This selection of corals will benefit from greater intensity>
I can fit 6- T5's 54w HO run off of 3 Accu-start ballasts with various selections of bulbs or I can also go with 2- 250w MH, either Ushio 10k or Radium 20k run off of 2 Ice Cap electronic ballasts along with 2 VHO actinic T5's into the existing hood. My goal if reasonable is to add stony corals and maybe a clam to the current stock. Any suggestions and opinions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Roger
<Well, Roger, I'd suggest the T-5s, with a mix of daylight-flavored bulbs, such as the Giesemann "11,000K", or UV lighting 10,000k bulbs. If you go the halide route, I'd recommend some double ended pendants, such as Sunlight Supply's "Lumenmax" units in 250 watt configuration, with either a Phoenix 14,000k bulb or an AquaMedic 10,000k bulb. Although arguably less energy efficient than T5's the double ended halides in well-designed reflectors are always a fine choice, and will provide excellent intensity for a wide variety of animals. Don't forget to gradually acclimate your corals to either of these higher-intensity light sources, as you don't want to burn them as he new light system is breaking in. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

Fixture Size 5/15/08
Hello Bob {and crew},
<Hello, Scott V. with you.>
I have a quick question....I'm currently setting up a 75 gallon reef tank and I have run into a slight problem with my lighting. The canopy I am going to use fits snug to the top of my tank {like normal canopies do...lol}, so this prevents me from using a 48" fixture. AARGH.
<I here you, frustrating. Do realize that many of the T5 fixtures actually measure in at 47-47.5” . This is one of the advantages of T5’s, they were developed to fit inside canopies!>
I plan on using T5's {most versatile for easy corals/invertebrates I plan to keep} - subject to change per your advice/my further research!
<T5 is a fine choice.>
My question is, do you see a problem with me utilizing a 36" fixture{s} or something other than the 48" fixture?
<No, although your tank will be a bit darker on the ends, you will need to place livestock accordingly.>
How about placement of a shorter fixture?
<Likely in the middle, you could put it to one side if you like the look (it will leave the other end dark).>
I'm trying to stay away from the cliché of a normal wattage per gallon, having said that, what’s a good ratio for beginner corals and inverts? 3-4...lol?
<Of course this depends entirely on what you wish to keep, but 4 watts per will serve you for what most consider beginner corals.>
Your advice and instruction on what I should do is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time in helping us less informed!
Jay
<Welcome, have fun with the new tank! Scott V.>