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FAQs about Light and Lighting for Marine Systems,
Installation
Related Articles:
Marine Light, &
Lighting, Marine
Aquarium Light Fixtures and Canopies,
Lighting
Marine Invertebrates, Anemone
Lighting, Coral System Lighting, Moving
Light Systems,
Related FAQs: Marine System Lighting,
Marine System Lighting 2,
FAQs
3, FAQs 4,
FAQs
5, FAQs 6,
FAQs
7, FAQs 8, FAQs
9, FAQs 10, FAQs
11, FAQs 12,
FAQs
13, FAQs 14, FAQs
15,
FAQs 16,
FAQs 17, FAQs 18,
& FAQs on Marine Lighting: Fixture Selection
1, Fixture Selection 2,
Fixture Selection 3, (incandescent,
fluorescent, MH/HQI, LED, natural...), Lamp/Bulb Selection
1, Lamp/Bulb Selection 2, (See
Fluorescent, LED, MH... below),
Waste Heat Production/Elimination,
UV
Shielding, Measure,
Troubles/Repairs,
By Manufacturer Make/Model: &
Actinic
Lighting, Metal Halide Lighting,
Fluorescent
Lighting, Compact Fluorescent Lighting, Small
System Lighting,
Lighting
Marine Invertebrates, LR
Lighting, Tridacnid
Lighting,
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Light Hanging Question
11/18/07
Thanks for all the help on the issue of overheating. Leaving the top off and
raising the light has helped and I've got a desk fan on the way to lower it even
more.
<Awesome, am glad to help.>
I am probably going to have to build an automatic top off device to go with the
sump though, as I'm having to top up about every 2 days or so (any advice on how
to do that would also be appreciated).
<There are many do it yourself plans on the internet, one can be found at
http://ozreef.org/diy_plans/electronic_projects/water_level_switch.html . Just
keep in mind that you will be dealing with 110, not 240. I personally use and am
a huge advocate of the Tunze water top off system. It is kind of pricey, but
well worth it. It has an optical sensor that keeps your water level super
consistent, an overflow sensor that shuts the unit off if activated, and it
shuts the unit down if it is on for more than ten minutes at a time. Also, it
comes with a 12V pump that will pump from a reservoir to the sump to top off.
This limits your top off capacity to the reservoir, limiting flooding capacity.
All this adds up to an extremely reliable top off system. I have personally
replaced the pump in the kit with a 12V liquid solenoid hooked directly to my RO
unit, I don’t like hauling water if I don’t have to.>
My primary question, though, is a rather simple one and I feel a bit ridiculous
that I'm even asking given that there's probably a very easy explanation. I have
the Current-USA Outer Orbit T5HO lamp hanging from my ceiling by the kit that it
came with. In my zealousness to lower the temperature, I hoisted the thing up
and it's now about 11 inches above the tank. It looks like there's a UFO
hovering in my living room. So I'd like to lower it back down a little bit
towards the 7-8 in. range and monitor to prevent overheating, but I can't seem
to figure out how to do that. I know product questions aren't your usual
schtick, but I thought one of you guys might have this setup and know what I'm
talking about. As it is, I'm contemplating heading back to my LFS and getting
another hanging kit for 10-20 bucks just so the family doesn't flip when they
come over for Thanksgiving at the big THING floating in the air over the living
room.
<That can certainly be unappealing, not to mention the value of being able to
adjust the height of your light. The bracket that mounts to the ceiling has a
little wire outlet in it. By pressing the wire outlet into the mount you should
be able to slide the cable in and out to adjust the length. A PDF with
instructions for the mount can be found at
http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/metal_SunPod.htm
I hope this helps, have a nice Thanksgiving, Scott V.>
Re: Light Hanging Question
11/18/07
Miracle workers, all of you ;)
<Have just battled the same woes.>
Can't believe I hadn't figured out the lights before, but it worked and they
look fantastic.
<Excellent, good to hear! >
Sent an e-mail off to Aqua-C about this last question since I know that's what
you recommend, but in the meantime, just wondering if you have any advice. I set
up a new Aqua-C EV120 in the same tank. I have a problem though. I've set it up
and have it operating for bout 2 days now and after the first day, it started
producing MASSIVE amounts of wet foam. So much so that I had to do what they
initially suggested and put the outlet hose back into the sump. I figured this
might be part of the break in process, but opened the gate valve all the way and
it's still producing this volcano of wet foam a day later. Any advice? Is this
normal?
Thanks!
Frank
PS Using a Mag 5 with it, for reference.
<Is it normal? Sometimes. Many times you will see the opposite during break in.
You may want to try restricting the air intake on the skimmer and check the
water level the skimmer sits in to see if it is within the recommended range. If
you add supplements to your water or vitamins to your food it will very often
make the skimmer go nuts like this. If all of the above is in order then just
give it some time to settle in. Happy reefing, Scott V.>
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Lighting placement,
angle reflection question 01/14/2008
Greetings Dear WWM Crew,
<<Hello Brian, Andrew here>>
First, I'd like to thank the membership of the WWM crew for the
enriching leadership you collectively provide. I have kept freshwater
(Cichlids) for four years now and have often visited this site for
reference. During these freshwater years I have immensely enjoyed
pouring over the great variety of detailed topics relating to marine
systems as well. Long story short...(and after reading Bob's excellent
text (CMA) cover to cover) I'm now venturing into the saltwater realm.
Today, I have a lighting and light-fixture-position/hood-design question
that neither my reading the FAQS nor searching the archives has
answered. I'd be most appreciative of your assistance.
<<Lets see what we can do then>>
I recently purchased a used, 200gal (84 x 24 x 24) Oceanic RR (Dual
"Megaflow"...which by no means actually IS "RR") and am gradually
acquiring components, doing research, etc, that will enable me to reach
my FOWLR and, ultimately, Reef tank goal. The tank came with an
exceptional stand but no hood/canopy. As a somewhat advanced hobbyist
woodworker (furniture), I intend to craft my own. As I collect all the
necessary aquarium equipment, I am trying to "buy once" and obtain
components that will provide prolonged service across the spectrum (no
pun intended with my question) of my development as an aquarist. To this
end, for lighting, few solutions seem to adequately fit the 84-inch long
dimension of this tank. Thinking that an assemblage of separate lighting
fixtures would best suffice, I have acquired 4, 20-inch, Current SunPod
150W/14K (HQI) MH lights which I intend to integrate into the canopy
design.
<<As a note, a single MH bulb is good enough for lighting 2 feet of tank
length>>
My question (at long last) is this: My plan is to design the canopy
mount such that the Sunpods are positioned end-to-end along the 84-inch
length of the tank. However, in order to maintain some nominal distance
between the ends of the fixtures (specifically, to keep the integrated
cooling fans located on the ends of the fixtures free from obstruction),
some fixture offset is, I believe, required. For clarity, the concept is
that the fixtures on either end would be centered (front to back) and
the two fixtures in the center of the tank would be positioned forward
(approx. the 8-inch fixture width). When offsetting the SunPod fixtures
in the center, a nominal space would be left between the end-fans of
these as well. In shifting the center fixtures forward, they would be
closer to the front of the tank and so I was considering angling those
fixtures slightly inward (perhaps 15-20 degrees)...to direct more light
output into the tank and less through the front glass (such as will
occur by being closer to the front and per reflector-coverage design). I
am concerned about the resultant amount of light reflection that might
occur by angling these fixtures, if the reflection would be significant
(considering that the water surface is constantly irregular anyway when
good circulation is achieved). So, I am wondering if the angling of
light fixtures has been successfully done in the past and if a
deleterious effect (light loss to reflection) will result by doing so?
I've attached a rudimentary diagram to help explain the concept.
Any advice would be most appreciated.
<<I would be tempted to only use three of the four fixtures that you
have bought. Your tank is 7 feet long, 3 of the lighting units will be
fine, spaced evenly with 4.5 inches from the outer edge of the lamp unit
to the end of the hood. If you use the method you have mentioned above,
the light will not be adequately dispersed in the aquarium, basically
giving you low lighting at the front as well as an irregular lighting
pattern inside the tank, and I think this will greatly reduce the
viewing pleasure of the aquarium>>
Thank you very much for your time. Best Regards, Brian.
<<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>
Re: Lighting
placement, angle reflection question 01/16/2008
Good Morning Andrew,
Reference 01/14/2008 Lighting angle question
<<Good morning again Brian>>
Thank you so much for the fast reply. <<No problem>> The simplicity of
your advised solution is like that "should have had a V8, bonk me on the
head" commercial. No need to overcomplicate, duh! In defense of the
apparent fog that surrounds my decision making, :), I'd actually
considered several options including going with a single, 72-inch,
3-bulb SunPod fixture or, as you suggest, just using 3 of the separate
fixtures. However, the more I looked at the dimensions of the SunPod
product line, the widths of the fixtures and locations of the actual
bulbs (bulb effective centerline within the housing and "centerline" of
overhead/hood placement), the more confused I became. I have seen the
common reference to a single MH bulb's "effective" ability to cover 2ft
of tank bottom. Presumably, this reference takes bulb height (distance
from water surface), substrate depth (i.e. DSB of 4-5 inches), and water
column diffusion factors into account. In my case, if I have a 4-inch
DSB, place my bulbs 8 inches from water surface and have a tank with
24-inch height dimension, then I am looking at a 28-inch distance from
bulb to substrate surface.
<<A single 250w metal halide bulb can penetrate down to 24 inches when
mounted 8 inches above water level>>
Per the common reference to a single MH bulb's ability to "effectively"
shed light on 2ft of tank bottom, my thought would be that the
centerline(s) of MH bulb placement needs to occur at 12-inches from
either end of the tank and at 24-inch increments between bulbs for
multiple bulb fixtures. I'm thinking that it is particularly important
that the bulbs at either end of the tank are placed 12-inches from the
tank end so that aquascaping, such as taller live rock structures
stacked to conceal overflows, are fully illuminated on the ends (outer
sides).
<<I agree, we need the lighting as evenly spaced / spread as possible>>
Many of the products I see available, such as the 36-inch dual bulb
SunPod
for example, place two bulbs (bulb centers) approximately 12-inches
apart...meaning (presumably) much greater (concentrated) illumination in
some areas of the tank and considerably less illumination in others.
<<That happens a lot with multiple bulb fixtures>>
Part of my reasoning in selecting the 20-inch SunPod was that bulb
centerline is 10-inches from the end of the fixture which would allow
hood placement to achieve an effective 12-inches of bulb centerline from
tank end (i.e. the live rock illumination concern noted above).
<<Valid point>>
Considering all of this "over thinking" I wonder if, in my case with the
7ft tank, center brace location, etc, a return of the 4, 20-inch SunPod
fixtures and purchase of 2, 36-inch (dual 150w MH bulb) fixtures would
be worth considering in order to achieve the most evenly concentrated
distribution of light (bang for the buck)? What say you?
<<I would agree that would be far better in the situation you have with
the hood and brace setup. I would go for the 250w bulbs as this will
provide you with more punch of light down towards the bottom of the
tank>>
Again, many thanks for your time. Your advice is most appreciated. Warm
Regards, Brian.
<<My time is your time Brian, many thanks for the questions. A Nixon>> |
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Finding the Sweet Spot
Hello to everyone , hope things are going well. Sorry for the question but I
need your opinion. I just purchased a new light system the AquaSpacelight,
with 3 250wDE MH and 4 24pc actinic lights. The directions state that it
should be hung 12 inches above the water, I have a 180g tank 24" deep. That
means the bottom is 36" below the lights? Does that seem OK if I want to
keep SPS and clams. Thanks
<Mike, Ryan with you today. Although I certainly would stick to
the 12 inches above while the bulbs are "burning in," I think that
playing with that gap a little bit in time may help your photosynthetic animals
in the bottom third of your ecosystem. In addition, much of the
usable light is filtered at that point, so you may want to try and elevate your
clams and SPS to a higher point in the tank. Good luck, Ryan>
Mike Winston
Height of Bulbs off Water - 8/18/03
Hey gang,
<cheers>
Yes its me again. The more I read the more I understand, but
inevitably this leads to more questions. I'm planning on a DIY hood
for my 90G eventual reef tank. Made of oak and stained or Pine and
painted. Going to be approx 15" tall. Have decided to
leave off the tank cover. The 2 175W 10K MH lights will be mounted
approx 12" from the water surface.
<yikes... too high likely. Really needs to be closer to 9" for optimal
intensity vs. spread (see Sanjay Yoshi's research on this subject)>
I also plan on having 2 VHO actinic blue 110W each. Would their
effect at 12" off the water surface be ineffective?
<completely... they would most only be aesthetic at that point>
Should I move them closer?
<anything beyond 3" off the surface with fluorescents is a waste of
electricity IMO. Seek the PAR meter when in doubt <G>>
Thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for
everything. Don't know how I'd start this hobby without ya.
Jeremy - Pineville, LA
<best regards, Anthony>
Which reflector?
Hey there-
I have a 125 with 3-175 watt AquaLine
10k metal halides and 4-96 watt pc actinics. I am looking to replace
my flat reflectors with more efficient reflectors, either the PFO optimal
reflectors (mounted perpendicular to the tank- similar to the spider reflector)
or the PFO parallel reflector. I will also be adding 2- 6 foot VHO
actinics. My question is whether I should go with the parallel
reflector, which would place the VHOs closer to the water (about 4-5 inches from the surface) or go with the perpendicular
reflector?
If I decide on the perpendicular, I will mount one set of VHOs underneath the
reflectors underneath the mogul sockets at the back of my tank and the other set
on the canopy top in the front. Which setup would you
recommend? The parallel reflector with both VHOs closer to the
surface or the perpendicular reflectors with one set of actinics closer to the
surface? Thank you very much for your help!
Josh
<Depends on the width of your 125 and how easy it is to move hood/lights out
of the way to gain access. I use one of the parallel set-ups and it
works quite nicely, although the focus of the light is more downward then some
spider reflectors. The VHO's are down next to the water where you want them.
Then the optimal reflectors spread the light more sideways with the reflectors
set as they are...but no real good way to handle the actinics.... All
depends on how much space you want to cover in that 125! I would
favor the parallel reflector for this reason. Craig>
Halide Bulb orientation and reflector choice
Hey there-
<whassup>
I have a 125 with 3-175 watt AquaLine 10k metal halides and 4-96 watt pc
actinics. I am looking to replace my flat reflectors with more
efficient reflectors, either the PFO optimal reflectors (mounted perpendicular
to the tank- similar to the spider reflector) or the PFO parallel
reflector.
<sounds good>
I will also be adding 2- 6 foot VHO actinics.
<nice for aesthetics... but not needed by your corals>
My question is whether i should go with the parallel reflector, which would
place the VHOs closer to the water (about 4-5 inches from the surface) or go
with the perpendicular reflector?
<fluorescents higher than 3" off the water are almost a waste of
use/electricity... they need to be scary close to the water to be any
good>
If I decide on the perpendicular, I will mount one set of VHOs underneath the
reflectors underneath the mogul sockets at the back of my tank and the other set
on he canopy top in the front. Which setup would u
recommend?
<since it is for aesthetic effect only at 4" or higher... do what is
most convenient for mounting... or for working in the tank>
The parallel reflector with both VHOs closer to the surface or the perpendicular
The reflectors with one set of actinics closer to the surface? Thank
you very much for your help! Josh
<use the parabolic reflectors for the halides at 6-9" off water
surface... then buy the VHOs (URI brand) that have the built-in internal
reflectors and mount them (you can buy acrylic legs/stand-offs) to mount bulb
right on top of the tank top or canopy (no external reflector needed). That's my
vote :) Kind regards, Anthony>
Need wiring diagrams for IceCap 660 - 2/19/03
hello: friends ,<Hello> I Need the wiring diagrams for my
old ballast 660. <Well, we do not carry such things here, but if needed I
believe they can be found here http://www.icecapinc.com/660.htm
if you continue to have problems, check with www.championlighting.com. Good guys
that may be able to help. Good luck> I know that i can power up to 2, 3, or 4
lamps but I don't have no idea how to make it work. <Check the links above.
They have all specs about your product> thanks V.K. <Thank you,
Paul - out>
New Lighting Question
www.wetwebmedia.com/aclimcoralslight.htm
Thanks for the reply! The page wouldn't work though.......
Ray
<Please try this one: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
Bob Fenner>
Glass reducing light
How much of a problem will the extra glass cause in light penetration? Will
it reduce light effectiveness by 10% 25% 50%? Thanks - Mark
<depends on the nature and thickness of the glass of course.
"White" glass [trade names like Diamante and Starfire] will admit
more/most light. Regular plate glass is somewhat restrictive. Low-E glass is
common and can be very restrictive. All are more restrictive as thickness
increases. You need to know the thickness and nature of the glass you have to
answer this question, my friend. No one answer here. Best regards, Anthony>
Lighting Distribution
Hello! I do not remember why (maybe I read it somewhere), but I thought it
was important for the light bulbs to go across the whole tank. I am looking at
48" CF's and with double bulbs each reaches about 3/4 of the way across
from opposite sides, totaling 110W. Does it matter?
<Somewhat, in that you will only have indirect lighting in some areas, but
not a major concern.>
If not, can I get 2 separate 24" hoods (55 watts each) and run them on two
separate timers?
<I don't think that will make much of a difference.>
Thanks, Rich
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Marine Lighting
Greetings WWM Crew!
I'll try to keep it short and sweet!
I am currently in the construction phase of a planned 75G Reef and am basically
DIY on everything besides skimmer and the tank itself. I am now working on the
plans for the lighting and am very confused as to which direction to go after
reading all the FAQ's, consumer info, etc. (sometimes too much is as bad as too
little).
I have really been leaning towards going with an IceCap 660 and wiring 4 3ft.
96Watt Compact Fluorescent lights to it but seem to be unable to find a good
supply of these 4 pin bulbs, including waterproofing caps, etc. I know
AHSupply.com
has the PC kits including the ballast (inferior to Icecap?) and reflector but no
waterproofing is apparent in that kit for where the bulb connects.
I seem to be having a hard time finding the connectors, bulbs, etc if I want to
DIY.
I have spent a lot of time on Philips and Panasonic but those Compact
Fluorescents are not listed on their sites. Could you guys give me a heads up
where I might be able to find those parts and if you think for the 75gal that
that would be the "ideal" solution?
Thanks again to the crew for all the wonderful info and help! I know I will be a
long time visitor and sending many others as well! Thank you! Thank you! Thank
you!
<I am currently building a canopy for one of my tanks. For the
bulbs and fixtures I had to support my LFS. That is not to say that
there are not better places to find this stuff, check out some of our
sponsors. I would try to find a reef club in my area and ask them, or
just post a question on a chat forum, lots of people with lots of opinions.
http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/
http://reefcentral.com/
Sounds like a good setup depending on what you plan to keep in the tank.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
Good luck, Gage>
Lighting
I am setting up a 70 gallon salt water aquarium. The glass lid broke while in
storage and the hood only holds two lamps that meet in the center. For the
lighting to be correct (live rock, coral, etc.) I am assuming I need a hood that
would hold 2 or 3, 48 inch bulbs. My tank is older and does not have a support
bar in the middle. Can you recommend a solution for a new hood and lid? Also,
what type of bulbs do I need to produce the proper lighting?
Thanks, Kristy
< Yes, you have a couple of major options: to build or buy an adequate
housing/hood to accommodate sufficient fixturing and release heat (if
necessary). If you want the fastest, though not cheapest route, take your old,
broken glass (or good INSIDE edge measurements) to a glass shop (you can find
them in your "Yellow Pages") or even a large "department
store" retailer like Home Depot/Lowe's (they have glass for sale and will
cut, bevel it for you), and maybe even check your retailer (with the dimensions
(outside this time) and pertinent notes so they can figure out the Brand name of
the manufacturer... and have a new glass made or replaced. The real livestock
store will have new, cuttable back-edge material that will attach to the glass
so you can cut out where your inputs/outputs enter/leave the tank top. You can
make a "hinge" with a bead of silicone rubber (the store will show you
how) by running and pinching a bead of aquarium-use silicone between the front
and back glass top panels. Fixtures and lamps and a hood can be bought as units.
I personally prefer compact fluorescents for this size, shape aquarium for looks
and function...
Alternatively you can have made or make a canopy type arrangement with or
without a glass barrier. This needs to be tall (quite tall if you're going to
use Metal Halides), and have provisions for ventilation. Possibly one or more
"muffin" fans wired with your timers to come on when the lights do...
Manufacturers of pre-made hoods/lighting can be found best in FAMA magazine
(Freshwater and Marine Aquarium), and contacted via the Net... once again,
investigate your possibilities before deciding. Much more on these issues can be
found under the subjects, light, lighting at the wetwebmedia.com site. Bob
Fenner>
DIY lighting reflectors
I've been researching lighting reflectors for a 60'' VHO system. I have
ruled out aluminum flashing but I would prefer to not spend the outrageous $8 +
per foot material that many online companies are selling. Any suggestions for a
DIY lighting reflector to go in a canopy for a reef tank?
<My fave is the Mylar material coated/embedded in thin acrylic sheet. Light
weight, waterproof, easy to cut, adhere to most any surface, easy to keep clean,
high index of reflectivity...Look for this through large hardware stores,
acrylic outlets (check the local availability through the phone/directory).
Also, do read through the premiere DIY website of Oz' Reef on other
possibilities, for other input: http://www.ozreef.org/
Bob Fenner>
Icecap ballast
Hey Bob. . . I got the Icecap 660 ballast today but I was surprised to find
there was no power cord nor was there a place to connect a power cord. What
gives? How do you connect this thing to the juice?
<Hmm, let's send this message off to Perry Tishgart and gang at Champion
Lighting (and Maurice) and ask them. Some folks don't "include" a
pigtail, power cord with their electrical products, considering that "one
size does not fit all" and instead intend that the customer purchase or
request this separately. Let's see. Bob Fenner>
As always, thanks and keep up the good work!!!
David Dowless
Re: Icecap ballast
bob,
the ballast does not come with a plug. the user can use an ice cap timer
which is hard wired, wire it to a switch, or simply splice a 3 prong plug to
the white, black and green power line.
Perry
<Ah, as I surmised. Thank you Perry. Will post this to the appropriate FAQs
files on our principal site (WetWebMedia.com). Hope to run into you on the show
circuit. Going to Interzoo in May?
Bob Fenner>
A few quick questions (lighting electrical concerns)
hi,
<Hello there>
I was wondering if you could answer a few questions. I have a 55 G saltwater
reef tank with a 30 g sump, and have to move in the next 2 weeks to an older
apartment that unfortunately doesn't have much electricity. I have a LN
electronic ballast that runs 4 x 110 W VHO bulbs (the LN is from Premium
Aquatics, it's the equivalent of the IceCap 660). I was wondering if you knew
how many Amps this system uses?
<Hmm, sure don't... would probably "just" test here, but you might
contact Premium, or even Perry Tishgart at Champion re his competitors draws>
The follow up question is how many amps would
it use if I ran 4 x 40 W bulbs? (the bulbs are 46.5").
<Again, the only satisfying "answer" for me would be to actually do
my own test here... The calculated and stated amperage will not be the same...
do you have a friend/accomplice electrician or physics lab cohort who has wrap
around induction type test gear? Very simple to use.>
The last question is what do can you feed bubble-tipped anemones? it's a lot of
work to reach into the tank and give each one bits of fish, so I was curious if
there are supplements to add to the water that work as well.
<Lots of light... and occasional (once, twice weekly) meaty feedings (get,
use plastic tongs... they're made for this and other aquatic purposes by Eheim,
Tetra, AZoo...>
thank you very much for your help,
Ben
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Regarding your response to the lighting question yesterday, I too have a
55 gallon tank that is 48" long. You indicated that you like a single
MH 175 w with 2 regular actinic bulbs. When I look in your catalog I
see the light is 24" long. Is this adequate for a 48" tank? Also there
is a fan cooling option. Is this something I should get or does it not
really matter? I am not familiar with these lights. Do they hang above
the tank? I assume they are too hot to sit on top of a tank with a
glass cover / shield.
Thank you for all of your information.
>>
Hmm, the twenty four inch lamps would be okay... if one is positioned all the
way to the front right, the other all the way to the left back... and no to a
fan if you're going to mount the metal halide high enough, leaving the top
mostly open to allow light through... I would not enclose a/the metal halide...
and would leave off with as much of a glass or other cover... instead fashioning
a canopy type of arrangement with some front and back panels to affix the
actinics/fixtures to.
Bob Fenner who wishes he could draw an image of this...
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