Supplementing top-off water   11/5/06
Hi WetWebCrew,
  Thanks for taking my e-mail today.  I have come to the realization that I should be buffering the water I use to top off the evaporation from my reef tank.  I also want to start dosing with Kalkwasser to raise the calcium concentration in my tank.  I just want to make sure I am getting everything right.     
  I am kind of confused as to how much buffer I should add to my top off water.  
<Mmmm...>
  Should buffer be dosed to compensate for the daily loss in alkalinity (like Kalkwasser would be dosed) or should you use a certain amount of buffer for how much water you top off (i.e. 10 gallons will have 10 times the amount of buffer as 1 gallon; such as how you add salt to mix new seawater)?
   <Kind of both... the new water should be bolstered to make up for the total lack of whatever you're trying to replace/maintain... up to the capacity of that volume of new/change water to "hold" such>
     I understand that high alkalinity and high calcium concentrations are mutually exclusive.
<Yes... by and large... up to a degree>
Currently my calcium concentration is a little over 350ppm and my alkalinity was around 7 or 8 the last time I tested it.
<These are not "bad" values>
  I am working on getting a new alkalinity test kit so I can add the buffer correctly and maintain this parameter.  If I try to raise my calcium concentration to 400ppm or a little more and my alkalinity to about 10, will I be in a good range to avoid a precipitation reaction?
<Mmm, all else being semi-equal... likely so>
Do both calcium and alkalinity have to be in the high range for this to occur (i.e. 450ppm and 12dkH)?  
   <Most of the time/circumstances, yes. The/this topic is more involved>
     I want the change back to more healthy conditions to be gradual.
<Good. This is wise>
I have about 80 gallons total liquid volume from my display and refugium.  I also have SPS corals so I don't want to shock them. How much could I raise my calcium concentration and alkalinity daily?
   <Mmm... a few ppm, tenths of meq/l...>
  Finally, as far as the dosing of Kalkwasser.  Should I add buffer to the water I am dosing with Kalkwasser?
<I would not... too likely to experience "negative chemical/physical interactions" here>
  I also read on a product label that there is a minimum amount of Kalkwasser you should use per gallon, is this true?
   <Minimum? Yes... in so much that only so much Kalk will "go into" and stay in solution... per water quality issues, CO2 exposure... time going by>
  Thanks again for taking my e-mail.  You guys are the reason I am able to grow SPS Corals!   
  Tim
<Yeeikes! Bob Fenner>

Best time to add calcium   10/2/06
Crew,
<Mark>
I have a 60 gallon DAS tank with 65 pounds live rock and 110 pounds live sand. We also have a hammer coral and a xenia. When is the best time to add my calcium, iodine and strontium? Right now we add these in the morning but my wife would like to not have the cloudiness from the calcium so I am curious if there are any ill effects if I added these at night after the lights go out? Also we currently use Purple up liquid calcium. I add 7 ml a day.
<Calcium is best added when the tanks pH is at its lowest. This is usually hours after the lights have been off and can be determined with a quick ph test or monitor. I suggest using a two part liquid calcium system as these will give you easy control over your calcium and alkalinity.>
What are your suggestions?
<Concerning dosing iodine and strontium you need only add these when testing dictates. You may be holding at acceptable levels with regular water changes, and might actually do harm/waste money by dosing without testing. Please test for anything you add to your tank. Testing may not be the most fun aspect of our hobby (for most people), but it can save your tank as well as you wallet.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome, wish you the best! Emerson>
Mark

Calcium Supplementation in a Small Tank - 09/03/06
Hello.
<<Howdy>>
I've read in your articles that with frequent water changes supplementation of calcium, strontium, magnesium and other trace elements is not necessary in salt water tanks.
<<Many times this is true...but it is highly dependent on the amount of calcium assimilating life in the system and the frequency/volume of the water changes>>
I am thinking of slowly changing my FOWLR tank into a reef tank. Would the above still be the case in a reef tank or is supplementation required when you begin adding corals?
<<Will depend on the quantity and the species...but it is easy enough to perform water tests to determine a need for supplementation>>
Just to give you some info on my tank it is a 10 gallon with 15 lbs of live rock and 50 watts of power compact lighting.
<<Ah, I see...a tank this size rarely if ever requires supplementation as it is quite simple and inexpensive to perform adequate water changes to keep up with mineral demands>>
Thanks for your time.
<<Quite welcome.  EricR>>

General supplementing, SW   8/17/06
Hello,
<Good evening!>
I have a general question. We recently hired a person to come in and clean our tank once a month. We have a 90 gallon with a few fish and mushrooms, polyps and a candy cane coral. I was adding supplements such as calcium iodine and strontium, Moly weekly and he told me to stop. He said that regular monthly water changes would be better then adding supplements and that you shouldn't add anything in the tank that you cant test for. Ever since I stopped  our candy cane coral isn't looking so hot. Is he correct in his opinion?
<Well, Nancy, yes and no.  There are a lot of ifs here.  Like the salt mix you're using.  Some salts have more reef needed additives in them than others.  I do dose weekly on essentials that are depleted in my tank even though I am very diligent about weekly water changes also (you should be, in my opinion, doing smaller weekly changes instead of the larger monthly changes that you're currently doing.  Its better for the overall health of the tank).  The key here is to have the proper testing kits to make sure you aren't too low or too high on elements like iodine.  You can purchase these and I highly recommend it.  Considering what you have in your tank, however, you probably don't need more than what the salt mix provides.  You do not have corals that have a major draw on any specific additive - but I would switch to at least bi-weekly water changes to make sure.  The choice is really up to you want to handle this.  Jen S.>
Thanks,
Nancy
 

Some Feedback and a Question   8/8/06 Hi Guys (and girls), <Chris> Firstly just some good news feedback. About 6 months ago my new reef tank was started. The WWM crew has really helped me a lot in identifying issues with my previously failed marine tank (especially Dr Fenner), and also with advice on the setup of the new one. I am proud to say that things seem to be well on track - the tank went through some horrible phases with diatoms, followed by various types of green algae, but finally this has all disappeared and I am proud to say that I now see various types of red and pink coralline algae starting to cover the live rock, with no nasty algae in sight. The main tank is about 150gallons in size, I have T5 lighting only with soft corals, only a few fish (yellow tang, coral beauty, niger trigger, sixline wrasse), some inverts and all seems to be healthy and doing well. Thanks again for all the help so far. at the moment I am really positive about the tank and it is largely due to your support. <Good> The one question I have is about supplements. Initially when I had an algae bloom I did a lot of reading about it and decided to stop adding any supplements, because frankly I was just pouring stuff in without knowing the impact, <Very common situation> except for my calcium reactor which is still running. For the last couple of months all I have been adding to the system is the following: 1. Monitor PH and KH closely and buffer top-up water to keep this constant. 2. Monitor calcium closely and dose a bit to keep it around 360-400. (Still trying to figure if calcium reactor is working properly, because calcium still seems to drop a bit every week). I have added nothing else to the tank at all for months. I am a little confused about whether I should start adding any supplements as I continue to add more corals to the tank. The LFS will tell you to dose Magnesium, Strontium etc. but I am not comfortable adding anything to the tank unless I have a test kit to monitor the values precisely. The general feeling I get when reading the FAQ's is that its probably better to not add any supplements and focus more on regular water changes to add new elements, but I would like your opinion on this anyway if its ok. <Bingo... this is my position... Don't add anything unless you are testing for it... know it to be deficient... Many chemicals have antagonistic and/or synergistic effects with others...> Then just one other question - there seem to be patches of red coralline algae growing on the substrate itself. is this normal ? <Happens, yes> (I'm pretty sure I can identify it as coralline algae). And lastly, can you perhaps identify the interesting looking 'thing' that is growing out of my live rock ? <Appears to be a type of Brown Algae... of the genus Padina. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brnalgae.htm> Thanks and sorry for the long email. Chris Cronje <No worries. Bob Fenner>

- Trace Elements 6/24/06 -
Mr. Fenner,
<Actually, Mr. Chodakowski today.>
I want to first say what a pleasure it was to hear your presentation to the SCMAS last week.  I found you (as usual) most informative and 'easy on the ears.'  I appreciate it that you came to our Society.
I have questions, which are similar but different.  Much has been discussed (and argued as usual) about making additions of trace elements to our marine aquariums.  I'd like your opinion and any reference you can point me towards regarding these questions:
Assuming 'normal' water changes every two weeks:
1)  Does adding trace elements contribute to macro algae growth and health? <Not usually in a marine environment. If we were talking about a planted freshwater tank, then yes supplements are beneficial.>
2)  Does adding trace elements to a reef aquarium have any benefits for the livestock? <Really depends on THE trace element we're talking about. Typically the real "trace" [read as: available in tiny amounts] elements are replenished by regular water changes with a quality salt mix. Other items which are necessary in larger amounts like calcium may need additional supplementation.>
3)  Does adding trace elements to a fish only (with or without live rock) aquarium have any benefits to the fish? <Once again, it really depends on which trace element we're talking about. I take vitamins, so I give my fish vitamins... this is a viable use of trace elements, but perhaps not the ones you were talking about...>
Again, I appreciate your involvement in our hobby and the time you shared with SCMAS members.  I hope you can find some time to express your opinion(s) about trace element additions.
Sincerely,
LEE B.
<Cheers, J --> <<Mine are very similar to those of Jas's stated here. RMF>>

My anemone is BURNED!! SW supp.s   6/13/06
Hey I have sent this once already and I didn't get a response so I re-sent it,
<Thank you... We have ongoing issues with our webmail... Arggghhh>
I absolutely adore your website.... Since I am a newbie I need all of the opinions I can get, and I trust your teams opinions the most. I have a purple LTA and when I was adding a diluted portion of Seachem Marine Buffer to raise the PH level to 8.3
<... best to do this through your water changes... not directly into the main/display tank>
some of the solution got on my anemone. A small portion of her lower tentacles now look as if they have been burned, they are small and shriveled, and bleached. Will these tentacles regenerate themselves?
Lorri Thanos
<Can if not too badly damaged... Do add such supplements to your pre-made saltwater for use during change-outs. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Blue Spotted Jawfish ... beh., hermit health, supplement use...   5/9/06
Hi,
I have a 75 gallon reef tank. Everything in my tank has been doing fine. I have a 4-inch Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens), 3-inch Clown Tang (Acanthurus lineatus),
<Not easily kept>
3-inch 5 Bar Mystery Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus ocellatus), 1 1/2-inch Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), 4-inch Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus), 3-inch Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides phthirophagus),
<Ditto>
and just purchased a 3-4 inch Blue Spotted Jawfish (Opistognathus rosenblatti ). I have a hammer coral, a torch coral, a Lobophyllia brain coral, a Kenya tree coral, and a couple button polyps. The lighting is four 65 watt compact fluorescents and one 40 watt regular fluorescent bulb. The sand/coral rubble is about 4 to 10 inches deep (ten behind the rocks and about 4 to six inches in the open). There is a 55 gallon sump, about 60 lbs. of live rock, two Magnum 350s (one on the sump and one on the display) display one only runs carbon), a Whisper 60 on the display for circulation with nothing in it and the main pump is a Via Aqua pump (600 gph), and there is a sea clone protein skimmer on the sump too. I have 4 questions. 1) I had a Electric Blue Hermit Crab (Calcinus elegans) in the tank. It always was in its shell and seemed tipped over. Plus whenever I put it on the rocks it would fall off and didn't move much. Why is this?
<The item you mention below, the addition of supplements directly to the system is very likely the root cause here>
2) That same hermit crab was dead after the addition of the Blue Spotted Jawfish. I saw what was left of its legs along with the shell on the bottom. Could the Jawfish have eaten it.
<No, not likely>
3) In the back of the tank where the crushed coral and some sand reaches about ten inches deep the Jawfish decided to make its burrow there. I couldn't find it for two days and after one day I went out and bought a lid for the tank knowing they are jumpers. Its burrow is very deep. There is about 4 inches right on the back glass and maybe another 4 below because the fish is about 3-4 inches. I know this seems like a favorable spot seeing as he/she can have such a nice burrow but is there anyway that it will maybe come to the front of the rocks or tank so that I won't have to go behind the tank to view it?
<Not likely, though it may become more outgoing with time>
4) My hammer coral keeps its polyps retracted almost all the time. They aren't completely retracted but they aren't out like they are suppose to be. My torch coral is doing great along with the others and both are on the same level in the tank and the torch might be getting slightly less light than the hammer coral. I threw that in because both are Euphyllia corals. Calcium is added daily and strontium molybdenum is added every Sunday. Can you tell me why this may be?
<... not a good practice to add such supplements directly to tanks. Add them through your regular water changes, through pre-mixed water... Covered on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Tim Morrissey
P.S.
Do you have any really cool ideas as far as fish for my tank? Also considering the bioload I have now, about how many more fish could my system handle?
<Your system is already "full-up" fish-wise with what you list. Bob Fenner>

WWM Question on Substrates part 3 4/16/06
How much turn over do you recommend for a tank? Is that filtered or just movement?
<<For a reef tank, turn over of at least 10x the tank volume is ideal.  Some aquarists use 20x or more.  Those figures apply to the amount of water movement within the tank.  This can be provided by return pumps, powerheads, power filters, etc., but in-sump protein skimmers don't count.>>
What about Aragamite or Aragamilk?
<<These products are nearly useless for maintenance of calcium and alkalinity since like aragonite sand, they are practically insoluble at normal reef tank pH.  Best Regards, AdamC.>

pH and Calcium supplements 4/10/06
What product do you recommend to raise pH and calcium levels?
<<Be sure you understand and test for Alkalinity.  pH measures how acidic or basic the water is.  Alkalinity measures the buffering capacity of the water, or in other words, the ability of the water to resist changes in pH.  Both are very important, and alkalinity is widely under-appreciated.  In any case, Kalkwasser is very useful in supporting pH, Alkalinity and calcium.  It is cheap and easy to use.  Grocery store pickling lime can be substituted for cost savings.  B-Ionic by ESV, C-Balance by TwoLittleFishies and TechAB by Kent are all two part preparations (one part calcium, one part alkalinity) that work extremely well and are extremely convenient to use, but are somewhat expensive.  There are recipes for "home brew" two part additives floating about the internet, but are probably best followed only by those with some chemistry background.  Last, but not least... you can use commercially available dry calcium and alkalinity additives. They are cheaper than two part additive systems but require a bit more care in their use.  Tropic-Marin makes a great dry product called BioCalcium that adds calcium and alkalinity in one product.  Any of the above can work very well.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>>

Homemade Additives  - 03/12/2006
Hi Crew, <Hello Mohamed.>
I have decided to prepare my own additive instead of buying commercially prepared products.  <OK>
Calcium I have started using calcium carbonate for 6 months without any problems.<OK>
Magnesium Which chemical can be used best magnesium carbonate, chloride, hydroxide, sulphate or oxide without affecting anything else?  <Epsom salts> <<Sulphate... RMF>>
Who would it be prepared as a solution or added directly into the tank and what quantity per 100L? <Mix into a solution then add to tank.  Depending on the purity of the salts a magnesium test kit would be necessary to determine correct dosage somewhere between 1000-1200 ppm.
Iodine My understanding is that Lugol's solution is made up of potassium iodide and iodine crystals.
What quantity of potassium iodide and iodine can I mix with water to get a strong solution like Lugol's solution so that I can use it as a dip and in my tank? <Pharmacy grade Lugol's is usually dosed at one drop per twenty gallons.>
Alkalinity What chemical can be used to increase alkalinity and stabilize pH?
My dKH drops to 7 - 8 per week from 9 - 10 with calcium maintained at 400ppm
to 450ppm.  <Most quality alkalinity boosters contain carbonate, bicarbonate, chloride and sulphate salts of sodium, magnesium, calcium, strontium and potassium.  This particular blend is used in Sea Chem's Reef Builder.  This product is rather inexpensive compared to trying to put the proper amounts of each chemical together yet alone finding them.>
Thanks  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
   Mohamed.

Calcium and alkalinity   3/3/06
Hi Anthony
<No longer with us, unfortunately>
this is Genaro can you help me again. I started to add Kalkwasser to my 55 gal reef no sandbed just a little to cover the bottom this is Ph 8.2
in  morning alkalinity 6.4 c Ca? I test and test and I don't get a reading I use Salifert testing can you tell me what am I doing wrong? I drip Kalkwasser  
one teaspoon mix on a gallon of water at night and I use one teaspoon of reef builder a ml of reef ca, one ml reef complete in morning to keep alkalinity  up
but still get's lower. I thank you again Genaro
<Mmm, please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the linked files above. You've "complexed" your water chemistry by mixing these materials too much, too soon. I would hold off on both, then treat with only one in any given day/period. Bob Fenner>

Mineral Supplementation - 02/04/06
How are trace minerals such as strontium, iodine, etc.  added to the aquarium if you use RO water.
<<Directly...usually...as outlined in  manufacturers instructions.>>
Is there enough in synthetic sea salt or should you supplement.
<<Mmm...excepting maybe tanks with large populations of stony corals, most folks can get by without mineral supplementation through the use of frequent water changes...which also provides benefit of waste exportation.>>
I realize that you said that it is not needed, but no mention if RO water was used and I didn't want to assume.
<<RO water is used quite extensively in the hobby.  You may wish to buffer your water prior to adding the salt mix.>>
Thank you and you have a wonderful website.
<<Glad you like it, EricR>>

Grunge "product"    1/19/06
Thanks; I'll try to zoom in.  Might be difficult. How do you feel about "GARF grunge"?
Daniel
<Have been told it's "one old guy with a hammer smashing old LR"... I would not buy it. Bob Fenner>

Iodine and Additives 01/18/06
Hi Bob,
<<Hello Linda. Ted on this end>>
    Wow I couldn't believe how fast you got back to me about my question re: compatibility of different types of cleaner shrimps - thank you very much!!  
    I have a different question the aquarium stores [2 salt water ones in my area]  have not been able to answer for me to my satisfaction.  The question is about additives.  I have a 40 gallon reef tank, with about 12 small corals, a couple of crabs, 2 shrimp, 2 star fish, snails, a sea urchin, a cucumber & 2 small fish.  I clean my tank about every 2 1/2 to 3 weeks [about 10 to 12 gallons change], use Instant Ocean reef crystal salt & distilled water.  I add a teaspoon of calcium as directed every day.  Recently, I have been adding 8 mil. [as directed] per day of an additive called "Reef Solution" by EcoSystems that is supposed to have multiple minerals & minor trace elements found in natural sea water so that you don't have to add any other additives.
    In the past, BEFORE I used this product, I had been using the Kent products - calcium daily [I still do] + a teaspoon of Iodine weekly + a teaspoon of strontium/molybdenum 2x a week.  The reason I switched products is because of the distilled water - I was concerned my tank lacked iron, etc. as found in normal water & I am afraid to use tap water as it caused my tank to crash with my very first water change.
<<Why not use RO/DI water instead of distilled?>>
    I am now concerned about Iodine for my shrimp & crabs.  I read you have to be careful how much to add because it may cause premature molting, but yet there is no test I can find to test the iodine levels - not even at the aquarium stores!   What would you recommend for additives?  Do you know of any test kits I can buy & what are the optimal levels that will make everybody in the tank happy?
<<I don't recommend the extensive use of additives. Instead, I recommend frequent water changes. High quality salts (like Instant Ocean, Tropic Marin and others) contain the appropriate levels of iodine and other elements. Small, frequent, water changes using a good salt mix will provide the appropriate levels and make everyone happy. If you supplement calcium, do measure the calcium levels in your system and dose accordingly. As far as test kits, I personally like Salifert and SeaChem brands.>>
Thank you for your time,
Linda Campbell, beginner coral tank enthusiast
<<You're welcome - Ted>>

Calcium Hydroxide turns gray in reactor 01-03-05
I've been using Prestochlor brand Calcium Hydroxide (for swimming pools) in the place of Kalkwasser for several months - recommended by several local reefers.  The reef looks great!  However, I have noticed that the solution gradually turns gray over the course of a week in the reactor (noticeably gray instead of white when it mixes at the end of the week).  Is this normal?
<I would assume it is normal for that product. It sounds like an oxidizing reaction, possibly of the impurities in the mixture.>   
  The bag says 68% Calcium Hydroxide and 32% inert ingredients.  It takes a lot of Kalk for the tank (250 gallons), so this is a MUCH CHEAPER option than Kalk and it mixes well... but I want to make sure I am not endangering my reef long term.   e
<There is a chance you are introducing heavy metals into your aquarium by using this product. I too save money where ever possible in this hobby, but I would definitely need to know what the "inert" ingredients are before I would trust it around my tank. Travis>
Thanks for any information!
      - Doug

Homemade two-part calcium and alkalinity additives  12/30/2005
Hey Crew,
<Mike>
I ran across a link to an article for homemade two part additives similar to B-Ionic. Basically it is using "ice melt" calcium chloride, baking soda for the alkalinity buffer, and the addition of a Epsom salt mixture once in a while for magnesium. It is mixed into separate mixtures and added just like you would add B-Ionic.
Link to article: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/april2004/chem.htm
I have read about some good results from users of the homemade mixtures, but wanted to see if you guys/gals had any thoughts one way or the other of using this method before I run off to Sam's Club.
<Should work... there are a few other ingredients in "two-part" solutions of these sort... usually a carbonate and borate...>
At less than 50 cents a gallon to make this mixture, it sure beats out paying the high price for the commercial mixtures.
<Yes>
I have read some concerns about if the extra ingredients in the ice melt mixture would pollute the tank,
but again haven't read anything about problems created by using this method.
If nothing else I wanted to pass on this 'recipe' to others so that they can save some money.
Thank you for your help! GREAT Site by the way!
Mike
<Thank you for being part of it. Bob Fenner>

Supplement Question <Coral Vital> 12/30/05
<Dave, Ryan with you today.>
I bought this stuff on recommendation from LFS as a way to promote coralline.
I have used it once and now doing some reading on it (yes, backwards I know).
Is it crap?
Is it worth just using the one bottle?
<Dave, it's all relative.  Are you having issues with coralline algae not growing?  If so, you should look into your pH, alkalinity and dissolved oxygen levels.  Are you just looking to cut corners, and get the coralline looking more mature?  If so, this isn't the answer.>
I'm most concerned by copper being in the ingredients:
I'm presuming that is different than treating a tank with copper which would kill many things and never can be completely removed?!
I have read you do not think highly of the product, which I certainly respect.
I'm just most concerned about it containing copper.
<Although in trace amounts, which I'm sure the company says is safe for inverts, you're smart to be suspicious.  Personally, I'd dispose of this stuff and rely on good old water changes with RO water and high quality salt mix when your coralline is looking "down."  Cheers, Ryan>
INGREDIENTS:
Vitamins: Vitamin A, Vitamin D3, Vitamin E
Trace Minerals: Calcium, Cobalt, Copper, Extract, Fluorine, Iodine, Iron,
Magnesium, Manganese, NaCl, Phosphorus, Potassium, Selenium, Sulfur, Zinc
Derived from ferment of: Biotin, Calcium carbonate, Calcium Iodate, Calcium
Pantothenate, Cobalt Proteinate, Cobalt Sulphate, Copper Proteinate, Copper
Sulfate, DiCalcium Phosphate, Ethylenediamine Dihydriodide, Folic Acid, Iron
Sulfate, Magnesium Oxide, Manganese Proteinate, Manganous Oxide, Menadione
Sodium B, Monocalcium Phosphate, Niacin, Cohline Chloride, Potassium
Sulfate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin Supplement, Selenium Yeast,
Sodium Selenite, Sulfite Complex, Thiamine Mononitrate, Vitamin A
Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E
Supplement, Zinc Proteinate, Zinc Sulfate
Bio-catalysts: Aloe Vera, Cane molasses, Citric Acid
Inert Carriers: Crude Fiber Extract, Crude Protein

Calcium Reactors/Kalkwasser Reactors
Hey Crew,
<Ron>
Happy Holidays!
<And to you and yours>
My 50 Gallon SPS reef tank is doing well.  I dose B Ionic 2 part DAILY!!  I drip ESV Kalk nightly for evaporated water...
This has been becoming difficult, as I am a touring musician.
<Yikes... perhaps a controller, automated dosing gear...>
Should I get a reactor or Kalk reactor on such a small reef tank, or can you suggest other options so as to minimize the daily maintenance to the system???
<The best would be a simple reactor... a small Knop unit would be my first choice, but a local hobbyist/marine club may have an upcoming workshop where you could fashion your own>
Thanks for your time. Also, SPS doing ok, but growing slowly.
I understand many factors are involved.  Besides water motion/quality, lighting, what else helps??
<Many other factors...>
Feeding?
<Of a certainty, yes>
if I feed,, I get phosphates and brown stuff on the sand.  My Phosphates are generally around .03-.04...
Thanks!
Jennifer NYC
<Do try the feeding, extending your light period, vitamin and iodine/ide additions. Bob Fenner>

Re: Calcium Reactors/Kalkwasser Reactors
Hey Bob!!
<Jenn>
You rock, by the way!
Which vitamins do you suggest.  I dose Lugol's weekly.  Should I dose ESV Iodide as well?  Lugol's is Iodine.
<Lugol's has both iodine and iodide... is fine for this element, the other... vitamins, HUFAs... can be supplied via Selcon, Microvit...>
Should I feed Zoo or Phyto, always get mixed response here...
<I would try both... see if they make any difference>
Thanks a bunch.
Jenn
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Question on Supplements 12-19-05
Team, Bob,
Hope you are well and having a good holiday season.
<We prefer to be called the Crew, instead of team Bob (just kidding with you), but thank you and I hope you have a good holiday as well.>
I have researched quite and bit and read through over half of the section on the site.  I do have to still admit confusion.
To recap (since you are very inundated)
40g Reef
3" DSB, somewhat live
70' Live Rock, appx 1/6" coralline encrusting (but none on the glass, might be a tidbit)
- Temp: 78 - 79
- SG 1.023
- Amm, Nitrites 0 or if I stir the sand too much, < 2
- PH 8.1 - 8.3 pretty consistent - I aerate some at night also.
Nitrates < 5ppm
Calcium: 290-310 when tested various times of day
Stock:
1 Maroon Clown and bonded 6" anchor hammer (well placed, no sweeper issues)
1 cleaner shrimp, 18 various snails, 16 small hermits
Hitchhiker Aiptasia (actually sort of like it, has not spread)
Large yellow polyp colony, small pom pom xenia (sprouting)
4" hitchhiker Condy anemone
various micro brittles, tube worms and a few hitchhiker tunicates.
Not stocked heavily, will likely add 1 more medium fish and a couple small gobies
like clown or Catalina if temperature is not a factor, still reviewing.
Corals are doing well but not growing as rapidly as in the beginning (of course, my watching them every minute for growth might affect my perception).  I am likely to add some small frags here and there and want to have an safe, effective and if possible, easy method of dosing supplements and calcium.  A reactor/sump/drip is not feasible.  I would like to raise calcium another 50 or so points and maintain ph and alk, should not be a problem, but....
....have reviewed several dozen articles and supplements.  What I really need is a bottle system of supplements that I can dose daily small amounts or weekly.  But every supplement I read or research says to use in conjunction or in addition to something else.  Is there not a all in one, or all in 2 or 3, bottled system for a small reef that has no capacity for large dosing systems or reactors or so on.  Even Reef Complete doesn't seem to do everything but am just not sure.  At this point, I am too flooded with information to even know what I am thinking about now.  Everything says Reef but then doesn't take care of the Reef.. lol.
Thanks for any and all input, and have a great time!  Whoo Hoo!
Bill
<Bill, I have had great luck using B-Ionic from ESV. It is a 2 bottle system. The only other item I add is ESV's Magnesium. The trace minerals can be re-established with frequent water changes using a quality salt.  Travis>