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FAQs on Marine Water Supplements, Using
Related Articles: Marine System Additives,
Marine Maintenance, Understanding
Calcium & Alkalinity,
Related FAQs: Marine Supplements 1,
Marine Supplements 2, Marine
Supplements 3, Marine Supplements 4,
& FAQs on Marine Supplement: Rationale/Use,
Science, Measuring,
Troubleshooting/Fixing... Products/DIY &
Brands, & Biominerals,
Iodine, Calcium and Alkalinity, |
Supplements are basically... any/every-thing you add in addition to
water, food, salt mix... Best to read labels, packaging... and avoid
adding all at once... and most not directly to the system, but
diluted in new water, during change-outs, top-offs |
Trace Elements 12/14/08
Hello,
<Hello Greg.>
My tank
is six gallons and contains live rock, 2 Cerith snails & 1 Nerite snail.
I rarely add food to the tank and when I do it's just a small piece of
dried algae. So with this being a relatively "clean" system I would like
to do monthly (or even less often) water changes.
<Sticking to a more
frequent schedule is good for developing good habits and promoting
stability in the system, especially this small.>
My only concern is
the trace elements becoming exhausted before this time. Do you happen to
know how long it takes for the elements to break down?
<It really
depends on the bioload, filtration and initial water chemistry of each
system. For the most part these trace elements are nothing to worry
about, with Ca, Alk and Mg being the guiding factors. If these are well
and in balance, most the time your trace elements will be too. The only
way to know for sure is to test, I for one do not and will not bother to
for all the �bell and whistle� trace element type of stuff. Water
changes are the way to balance these values in such a small system.>
Thank you, Greg
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Vodka Dosing – 08/19/08
Hi –
<<Hello>>
I've searched your
site and a few others and read some interesting articles about the
concept of vodka or ethanol dosing to reduce/eliminate Nitrate and
Phosphate in reef tanks.
<<Indeed>>
Most of it was fairly dated
however and I was curious as to whether the idea still has currency.
<<Possibly, with caveats… Firstly, this methodology is not without
danger...the right combination of circumstances can be catastrophic (I
speak from experience). Secondly, this method only treats the symptom
and is not a cure-all for what ails your system re buildup of
nitrogenous/organic compounds. Are you aware of how this method works?
The premise is the addition of a concentrated form of carbon
(Vodka/ethanol) provides a food source that promotes the artificially
high production of certain strains of bacteria for a limited period
(until the carbon/food source is depleted). Some of these strains of
bacteria have the ability to “double their populations every
20-minutes.” As this mostly aerobic bacteria population grows, along
with the carbon source, excess nutrients are also oxidized. As implied
by the name, this process is driven by oxygen consumed by the bacteria
to drive their metabolisms…and therein lays the greatest danger in my
opinion. Coupled with the wrong conditions (already low oxygen levels
from overstocking, inadequate water movement, etc.) or unfortunate
circumstance (loss of power/sump pump circulation) the artificially high
bacteria population can rapidly consume all the available oxygen
creating a severe anoxic condition>>
I'm home in the middle of a
vacation for a day or two and just tested my nitrates which are
disturbingly high as I had to shut down my skimmer while I've been gone.
<<Hmm…don’t know what “disturbingly high” is>>
I was thinking that it
might be a way to bring them down quickly and give me time to deal with
it when I return home in a week or so.
<<As stated, this method only
treats the symptom…and then only briefly. One or two “doses” before
leaving the tank for a week or so will have little overall impact. I
think your system would be much better served here by a canister filter
filled with cut-up Poly-Filter>>
So my questions are: 1) does it
work?
<<It can, yes… I have found it especially good for removal of
Cyanobacteria…after determining and attending to the initial
cause/source of the outbreak>>
2) Should I do it in this
circumstance?
<<I would not…for reasons already mentioned>>
3) Can
you suggest a dosage;
<<Would rather not as I wish to discourage your
use of this methodology>>
and 4) are there any risks since I won't be
around to monitor anything but the short term effects?
<<I strongly
urge you to find/use a different method to bring down your Nitrates in
this situation. And the obvious…keeping the skimmer running and having
someone check on/feed your system and empty the skimmer while you are
gone. A week is too long to leave your reef system unattended, in my
opinion>>
Thank you for taking the time to share your most valuable
experience and expertise.
Eric
<<A pleasure to assist. Eric
Russell>>
Ps disturbingly high is around 60-70 ppm
<<Ah…yes
indeed. I would confirm the validity of this test (new/different test
kit) and if accurate, determine the reason/fix what is causing such a
high reading…skimmer on or not. Regards, EricR>>
Adding Supplements (Testing/Determining Need…Product Selection) –
08/08/08
I was wondering about adding supplements to my reef
tank.
<<As with most all topics re the hobby…can be quite
controversial. But most all authors will agree, supplementation should
always be accompanied by purposeful testing of those elements being
added>>
The tank is 140 gallons and I was just wondering if this is a
good supplement schedule?
Thanks,
Thomas von Bargen
Supplement
adding schedule:
Kent Marine Phytoplex and MicroVert -
Use either
one or the other not both at the same time.
1) Shake bottle
2)
Add four caps
3) Feed two times a week
Kent Marine Tech-M
Magnesium -
1) Shake bottle
2) Add 1/4 tsb per 50 gallons
3)
Once a week
Kent Marine Concentrated Iodine -
1) Shake bottle
2) Add 3 cap full every other day
Kent Marine CB part A -
1) Shake
well
2) Add 7 caps of part a never mix Part A&B -
3) Add every day
Kent marine CB part B -
1) Shake well
2) Add seven caps of part B
never mix A&B
3) Add everyday
<<Okay, a few things to state here…
First let me establish that there is no way on the limited info provided
that I can advise on the “quantity and frequency” of these dosages. You
will need to obtain and use test kits for Magnesium and Iodine, as well
as for Calcium and Alkalinity to firstly establish a “need” for these
ions. If the test kits show a need for supplementation, then you will
have to use those measurements along with the manufacturers’
instructions to determine a proper supplementation schedule (please also
read here and among the links in blue:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm ). Honestly mate, the onus is on
you here. As for feeding your corals/inverts/reef…I am a big proponent
of this…and though it depends on the specific livestock needs of your
system, twice a week is a good general schedule. Target feeding is best
when possible/practical, but “blanket” feeding of the tank is also of
benefit when done judiciously in my opinion…but not with the
artificially preserved bottled products you have listed. I advise you
stop use of the Kent products (do a search on our site re “pollution in
a bottle”) and switch to “frozen” foods like Rotifers, Cyclops and/or
Cyclops-Eeze, Oyster Eggs, Nutramar Ova (prawn eggs), Plankton, and the
like for this purpose. The frozen fare (after thawing of course) will be
more nutritious and importantly, more readily accepted/ingested by your
tank inhabitants. For dosing Phytoplankton, I recommend either the
spray-dried (ESV) or refrigerated (DT’s) products…but used very
sparingly/with caution. Regards, EricR>>
Additives 07/28/2008
Hi Crew,
<<Good evening, Andrew today>>
If I want to add Selcon to the water once a week or any minerals do I
have to remove carbon or poly filters and if I do for how long.
<<I
would, yes, leave off for a couple of days. The question is, do you
really need to be adding these to your tank? Is a test showing up a
deficiency? Add the Selcon direct to the food prior to feeding.>>
<<Thanks for the question, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Brain Coral Damage, supplement use 3/3/08
Hello,
<Greg>
I recently made the mistake of adding some powdered
pH buffer (Sea Buffer by Aquarium Systems) directly to my tank.
<Such
supplements should be added to and through water change water...
dissolved...>
Found out the open brain coral did not like this at
all.? It began secreting a lot of clear mucous.? I think some of the
powder probably touched the coral before dissolving.? I removed as much
slime as possible and waited to see if the coral recovered.? The slime
production stopped and the coral re-opened.? However, after a week or so
I noticed a small part of the coral was not opening fully.? There is a
small (< 1/4") area that has developed a whitish patch with something
sloughing off.? Coral continues to open daily (except for damaged area)
and everything else appears normal.? I am thinking some type of
infection has taken hold in this area.? Is this coral toast from the pH
buffer contact or is there some chance the tissue will heal??
<The
latter... with good care, time...>
Anything I can do to help the
tissue heal?? Lastly, how and when will I know if this is a no win
situation and I need to removal the coral before polluting the tank.
Thanks,
Greg
<Iodine/ate, improved feeding... See WWM re. Bob
Fenner> 2
part solution: getting in balance 10/16/07
Hello, need some more
expertly advise. I have a tank and refugium totaling about 65 gallons.
Ca=340ppm Alk=3mEq/l and ph is about 8.8
<... I hope it is NOT this
high...>
(hard to match color for Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test. I
have choose
<chosen>
to use Kent cb 2 part solution. I have heard
that you need your system to be in balance in order for the 2 part
solution to work.
<Should be close to start, yes>
Is it in balance
enough to just add until both Alk and Ca increase as I would like?
<Yes>
I have a frogspawn and thought my calcium should be above
400ppm I have heard that you should do a big water change to help get
system in balance before using the 2 part solution. For 65 gallons total
water how many gallon water change would you suggest?
<... maybe
twenty gallons>
Also, I have an r/o unit that I use for my water. I
mix 20 gallons of salt water each month into a container for water
changes and 20 gallons of fresh each month into another container for
make-up water. Should I buffer these even with the use of the 2 part
solution?
<Yes, a good idea... use one of the two... wait a day,
test... use the other>
Also on another note, I heard that when using
r/o water you should add buffer then salt?
<Mmm, not necessary
generally>
The last batch of water I made I added salt and then the
buffer. When I tested it had Ca=340 Alk=4.5mEq/l and ph about 7.8 I
thought the Ca would be would be around 400 using instant ocean sea
salt. Is the low Ca due to improper buffering application?
<Shouldn't be... I'd check your test kits... and aerate the RO water
before mixing...>
Thanks for all your help! Without all of your help
I would just have to accept looking at pictures of aquariums in
magazines and on TV :)
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Iodine and Additives 01/18/06
Hi Bob,
<<Hello Linda. Ted on
this end>>
Wow I couldn't believe how fast you got back to me
about my question re: compatibility of different types of cleaner
shrimps - thank you very much!!
I have a different
question the aquarium stores [2 salt water ones in my area] have not
been able to answer for me to my satisfaction. The question is about
additives. I have a 40 gallon reef tank, with about 12 small corals, a
couple of crabs, 2 shrimp, 2 star fish, snails, a sea urchin, a cucumber
& 2 small fish. I clean my tank about every 2 1/2 to 3 weeks [about 10
to 12 gallons change], use Instant Ocean reef crystal salt & distilled
water. I add a teaspoon of calcium as directed every day. Recently, I
have been adding 8 mil. [as directed] per day of an additive called
"Reef Solution" by EcoSystems that is supposed to have multiple minerals
& minor trace elements found in natural sea water so that you don't have
to add any other additives.
In the past, BEFORE I used this
product, I had been using the Kent products - calcium daily [I still do]
+ a teaspoon of Iodine weekly + a teaspoon of strontium/molybdenum 2x a
week. The reason I switched products is because of the distilled water
- I was concerned my tank lacked iron, etc. as found in normal water & I
am afraid to use tap water as it caused my tank to crash with my very
first water change.
<<Why not use RO/DI water instead of
distilled?>>
I am now concerned about Iodine for my shrimp &
crabs. I read you have to be careful how much to add because it may
cause premature molting, but yet there is no test I can find to test the
iodine levels - not even at the aquarium stores! What would you
recommend for additives? Do you know of any test kits I can buy & what
are the optimal levels that will make everybody in the tank happy?
<<I don't recommend the extensive use of additives. Instead, I recommend
frequent water changes. High quality salts (like Instant Ocean, Tropic
Marin and others) contain the appropriate levels of iodine and other
elements. Small, frequent, water changes using a good salt mix will
provide the appropriate levels and make everyone happy. If you
supplement calcium, do measure the calcium levels in your system and
dose accordingly. As far as test kits, I personally like Salifert and
SeaChem brands.>>
Thank you for your time,
Linda Campbell,
beginner coral tank enthusiast
<<You're welcome - Ted>>
My anemone is BURNED!! SW supp.s 6/13/06
Hey I have
sent this once already and I didn't get a response so I re-sent it,
<Thank you... We have ongoing issues with our webmail... Arggghhh>
I
absolutely adore your website.... Since I am a newbie I need all of the
opinions I can get, and I trust your teams opinions the most. I have a
purple LTA and when I was adding a diluted portion of Seachem Marine
Buffer to raise the PH level to 8.3
<... best to do this through
your water changes... not directly into the main/display tank>
some
of the solution got on my anemone. A small portion of her lower
tentacles now look as if they have been burned, they are small and
shriveled, and bleached. Will these tentacles regenerate themselves?
Lorri Thanos
<Can if not too badly damaged... Do add such
supplements to your pre-made saltwater for use during change-outs.
Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Some Feedback and a Question 8/8/06
Hi Guys (and
girls),
<Chris>
Firstly just some good news feedback. About
6 months ago my new reef tank was started. The WWM crew has really
helped me a lot in identifying issues with my previously failed
marine tank (especially Dr Fenner), and also with advice on the
setup of the new one. I am proud to say that things seem to be well
on track - the tank went through some horrible phases with diatoms,
followed by various types of green algae, but finally this has all
disappeared and I am proud to say that I now see various types of
red and pink coralline algae starting to cover the live rock, with
no nasty algae in sight. The main tank is about 150gallons in size,
I have T5 lighting only with soft corals, only a few fish (yellow
tang, coral beauty, niger trigger, sixline wrasse), some inverts and
all seems to be healthy and doing well. Thanks again for all the
help so far. at the moment I am really positive about the tank and
it is largely due to your support.
<Good>
The one question I
have is about supplements. Initially when I had an algae bloom I did
a lot of reading about it and decided to stop adding any
supplements, because frankly I was just pouring stuff in without
knowing the impact,
<Very common situation>
except for my
calcium reactor which is still running. For the last couple of
months all I have been adding to the system is the following:
1.
Monitor PH and KH closely and buffer top-up water to keep this
constant.
2. Monitor calcium closely and dose a bit to keep it
around 360-400. (Still trying to figure if calcium reactor is
working properly,
because calcium still seems to drop a bit
every week).
I have added nothing else to the tank at all for
months. I am a little confused about whether I should start adding
any supplements as I continue to add more corals to the tank. The
LFS will tell you to dose Magnesium, Strontium etc. but I am not
comfortable adding anything to the tank unless I have a test kit to
monitor the values precisely. The general feeling I get when reading
the FAQ's is that its probably better to not add any supplements and
focus more on regular water changes to add new elements, but I would
like your opinion on this anyway if its ok.
<Bingo... this is my
position... Don't add anything unless you are testing for it... know
it to be deficient... Many chemicals have antagonistic and/or
synergistic effects with others...>
Then just one other question
- there seem to be patches of red coralline algae growing on the
substrate itself. is this normal ?
<Happens, yes>
(I'm
pretty sure I can identify it as coralline algae).
And lastly,
can you perhaps identify the interesting looking 'thing' that is
growing out of my live rock ?
<Appears to be a type of Brown
Algae... of the genus Padina. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brnalgae.htm>
Thanks and sorry
for the long email.
Chris Cronje
<No worries. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Dosing Question – 2/8/07
<Hi Scotty, Brenda here tonight>
First of all, let me say you guys are the best!!!
<Thank you!>
Now, I searched the forums and got some of my answer to this question,
but need you to finish it.
<I’ll try>
I add part 1 and part 2 of
the Oceans Blend calcium and alkalinity supplement. I have added over
48 ml in the last 72 hours, but my test kit is showing no increase in
calcium (stays at 350ppm). My pH has been rising, even though I have
added an equal amount of part II (alkalinity).
<I need
actual results of pH>
I do not have an alkalinity test kit yet (will
get one soon), so I have no idea to see where that is, and am basing any
decision I make on an unknown.
<Yikes! Please stop! You will also
need a Magnesium test kit. Mg should be in the 1300 – 1500 ppm range
for everything to balance properly.>
So my question is should I
continue with both parts until my calcium gets to 400 ppm.
<No>
Should I use one for a few doses without the other as a way to balance
out the pH? Or should I just sit tight and let things get settled?
<Sit tight until you get some more test kits.>
Best idea is to
listen to what you guys <or gals> have to say.
<Never dose calcium,
alkalinity or magnesium into your tank until you know what your levels
are. Please read for a better
understanding: www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/rhf/feature/index.htm
www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm
www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/rhf/index.php#3
Also,
here is a calculator to help you with dosing. It sure makes my life
easier: http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chemcalc.html
>
Scotty, NY
<Good luck Scotty, and be patient! Brenda>
What's the Diff. between Magnesium and Molybdenum? 2/26/07
<Greetings, Mich here.>
Molybdenum and magnesium... are they diff.
substances?
<Yes. Chemically notated MoO42- and Mg2+ respectively.>
<<Mmm, just the elemental Mo and Mg symbols for these? RMF>>
I think
it is a yes...or is Molybdenum just another form of magnesium?
<No.>
Because Red Sea produces...Molybdenum...they don't produce
magnesium...and Seachem sells magnesium but not Molybdenum.... isn't it
weird?
<Mmm, no stranger than anything else.>
What's the effect
of Molybdenum to reef tank?
<Possibly a micronutrient.>
Which is
more important ??
<Magnesium.>
I am using magnesium
only...should I put in Molybdenum too?
<No.>
What's the effect
to my corals if I used Molybdenum too? :)
<As far as I'm aware the
science isn't well understood. RMF any comment? -Mich> <<Not necessary
in any system I've ever read about, encountered to add this
micro-nutrient... is only necessary in very small amounts... supplied by
salt mix, foods... RMF>
Purified water testing & trace
elements Water Quality 4/8/07
Hello,
<Hi Greg.>
I've
been testing my make-up water via a Salifert alkalinity test kit. The
water is purified via an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Purifier.
<A very expensive way to purify water. An RO purifier will save you
much money here.>
I always get 0 dKH when testing. The thing is
though, recently I got close enough to the aerating/stored make-up
water to notice a fishy stink.
<Is the water being
circulated/aerated?>
So I tested alkalinity and it read 0. So I'm
thinking the alkalinity test obviously isn't sufficient.
<???Alkalinity has nothing to do with water purity.>
I'm guessing a
TDS meter will do the trick. What is the best way to catch the purifier
before it produces anything less than perfect water?
If you think a
meter is the way to go, will the Pocket TDS Meter from Marine Depot do
the trick? The reason I ask is, it seems like it might be cheaply made
@ $29.95.
<Total Dissolved Solids testing is used to check the
effectiveness of RO units and I believe would also tell you the
condition of the media in your water purifier. As for the meter MD
sells, I'd ask them that question.>
Also, I use a Poly Filter and
dose Seachem's Reef Builder and Reef Advantage Calcium. Should I
remove the Poly Filter for four days every time I add these to my tank?
Will the Poly Filter remove a significant amount of trace elements from
either of these two products?
<No. If regular water changes are
carried out, you will replenish any lost trace elements.>
I really
don't care if it removes the magnesium, strontium, etc. All I worry
about being absorbed is the calcium and alkalinity.
<No worries
here.>
How much, if any, will it remove from these two products?
<Would be negligible at best.>
One more question. My make-up water
(for water change) only has 960 ppm of Mg. I'm shooting for 1050. I've
got Epsom salts and I'm wondering if I can just add the powder directly
to my make-up water after it's been aerated, buffered, brought to
correct spg and pH. If not, how should I do this? Dilute in purified
water and then add to make-up water? The tank's magnesium level is at
915 ppm and would like this also to be 1050 since I maintain calcium
around 350 ppm. Am I going about this in the right manner?
<I would
mix the Epsom salts in a separate container and add directly to tank
when needed. As for other additives, follow manufacturers
directions. James (Salty Dog)>
Take care, Greg
Live Concrete? (Live Sandbed Going Solid)
What would turn live
sand into cement?
Cindy
<Well, I've seen this happen in systems
where lots of Kalkwasser or calcium additives were used with little
circulation and no sandbed surface agitation. Not exactly concrete, but
hard just the same! Hence, one reason that a little bit of stirring at
the surface is not a bad thing. Regards, Scott F.>
R/O water treatment part2 2/22/05
One follow-up question: If I
use B-Ionic, is there any reason not to use it to treat the ro/di water
in the Brute, before that water is used to make synthetic seawater or to
top-up the tank? Thanks, Tom
<B-Ionic and similar two part additives
are shipped as two parts because mixing them will result in a useless
insoluble precipitate. For this reason, they must be added separately (I
even suggest several hours apart), and cannot be mixed in make up water.
Also, you could add one or the other part to your make up water, but
IMO, this would be complicating a very simple process. Hope this helps.
AdamC.> Additives and Such
Guys,
<Scott F. your guy tonight!>
I have recently added a 90 gal refugium
with DSB and plenum and a Knop dH cal reactor to my 450gal reef tank.
Refugium been in use for one month, reactor for 2 weeks. Tank is already
showing big improvements. Do I still need to keep adding supplemental
magnesium, strontium, molybdenum, or will/should the cal reactor and
refugium, plenum, DSB, provide these chemicals?
<Coupled with regular
water changes, these items will help, yes!>
Refugium, plenum, reactor
etc. set up as learned on this site. All basic test results have shown
excellent water conditions and am doing water changes biweekly. I have
not tested for these chemicals but have added them per instructions.
<I am a big believer in Bob's admonition to only add something in your
system if you're gonna test for it. Just following the label could still
be a problem if your system does not need it. Regular water changes,
like you're doing-will do the job, IMO!>
Trying to create as self
sufficient, natural system as possible.
<An admirable goal!>
Main
tank has 2 inches live sand, refugium crushed coral ,aragonite combo.
Thank you, Paul.
<Sounds fine, but I'd go with 3" or more or 1/2 inch
or less of sand in the main tank. Two is not enough to support complete
denitrification, but can create long term nutrient accumulation
problems. Keep reading and learning. Enjoy!> Supplements
Hello all,
<Hi!>
I was hoping you would enlighten me as to what
brand products you use for your calcium,
<B-ionic two part>
iodine/iodide
<I don't use this>
strontium,
<Don't use this>
and pH buffer/alkalinity additives.
<B-ionic>
Also, are iron and
magnesium necessary for a successful reef?
<Some people do use ALL
of the additives that you mention. Iron is good for plant growth. My
macro algae grows fantastically without it (Halimeda, Gracilaria and
hair algae. HA!). I personally don't use an iron or magnesium
supplement. Magnesium can affect your calcium and this is why some
aquarists use this product. Read all of the available material on these
issues and then decide what makes sense to you. In my case, I don't want
to test for all of these components and in most cases their usefulness
in aquaria (except for calcium and buffers) has not be proven. Most of
what you read on bottles is simply hype produced by the company selling
the product. A good salt mix will contain reasonable levels of all of
these additives. I use Instant Ocean>
Do you use these also?
<No>
If so, again, what brand do you use?
<Skip these miracle
cures. Practice good husbandry>
How many times per week do you add
each (all) of the above supplements?
<I add B-ionic as needed to
maintain the proper calcium/alkalinity...usually several times a
week...or everyday if I've been slack on water changes. I also add a
little Kalkwasser to the salt water that I use for water changes...I use
the slurry method for delivery a couple of days before I do the water
change. The slurry method is described by Anthony Calfo on WetWebMedia>
Am I missing any important or recommended supplements besides maybe a
little vitamin C?
<A vitamin supplement like Selcon that you can soak
all food in...It will help keep the fish healthy and avoid HLLE>
Thanks again for you time,
Adam
<You're more than welcome! David
Dowless> Aragamilk - Kalkwasser - PH, Alkalinity, KH
Hello,
Can anyone give me the basic parameters for Alkalinity, KH, PH
for my reef tank?
<Sure! 4-5 meq/L total alkalinity of which approx.
1.5-2 meq/L should be borate/hydroxide alkalinity. The result you are
interested in is total alkalinity using a balanced buffer/carbonate
supplement. PH should 8.3-8.4. KH is carbonate alkalinity. 350-450
calcium.>
Also, I was at a real awesome fish place today that uses
Aragamilk in all of their reefs. They told me it's much cheaper than
dosing Kalkwasser, as 1 drop is for two gallons of water and a 16 oz
container would last me many many months for a 55 gallon reef tank.
<This all depends on your carbonate usage, so a blanket statement about
how long a product will last isn't accurate. A few drops may not
supplement your system to the desired levels. As far as expense,
Kalkwasser (also known as pickling lime, hydrated lime) is far less
expensive for dosing calcium and supporting alkalinity. There may/is
still a need to supplement for carbonate alkalinity with both products,
depending on testing/usage in your situation. I would tailor the
supplements to your specific use. The only way to top the use of
Kalkwasser is a calcium reactor.>
I know many on the forum are "old
school" and do what they KNOW works, and try not to deviate from the
norm. Was wondering if anyone has had experience with Aragamilk. Also
would I need to dose Aragamilk at night similar to the methods of dosing
Kalkwasser?
<No, it doesn't have the high pH of Kalkwasser.>
Because I have a refugium that's on a reverse daylight schedule, would
dosing Aragamilk or Kalkwasser at night REALLY make a difference due to
the fact my ph will be relatively stable due to the refugium's reverse
daylight methodology. Thanks again,
Steve
<Likely not as the
refugium stabilizes the oxygen/CO2 content of the water and thus the pH
and any advantage of nighttime/early AM dosing. For more info on water
chemistry check out the info in the marine section of
WetWebMedia.Com Hope this helps! Craig> Novice at work!
Hello Robert,
I just read about feather dusters in the FAQ section of
http://wetwebmedia.com/
But I am still uncertain what's going on with
my invert. For about 2 weeks it began to stay in it's tube more than
out. Now, for about 3 days, it hasn't come out at all. The tip of the
tube seems to be 'sealed' up! I don't know if the color has changed, (
I'm embarrassed to say) but in the middle of the tube it is a very dark
brownish/maroon color.
<Yikes... often not a good sign>
I have a
55 gal, 60lbs. LR, crabs, T snails, a couple camel shrimp, and 4 damsel
fish. I have recently added many supps every week consisting of,
Seachem's:
Reef Builder
Reef Advantage Strontium
Reef Advantage
Magnesium
Reef Plus vitamins and amino acids
Reef complete
On
the day after I add all these, I add Reef advantage Calcium
<How much
of all this...?>
Yes, I have visited www.garf.org . This is where
this novice has learned most of her stuff.
Am I all wet?? I need a
site where I can find ANSWERS! So here I am, asking you for some help.
Thanks very much for your time!
Pam
<I will gladly help you (and
all others) if I can... We may need to start "further back" in the
set-up, history of this system. To expedite matters, get us ahead faster
than "going back and forth" please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tanktroubleshting.htm
re
troubleshooting... I would stop adding biominerals (Sr, Mg, even
calcium) until you know about what these are concentration wise in your
systems water... do you have an alkalinity test kit? A history/values of
what this has been? I suspect this is low... The vitamins are fine to
keep adding. We'll be chatting. Bob Fenner> Re: Novice at work!
I went to the site Robert: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm, and
all I can say is,.........
WOW, lots of info, daunting, but I got the
message! Maybe all my supplements are NOT a good thing.
<Decidedly
not... many have negative reactions with each other...>
But it's very
difficult when you are new to the Reef World.
There is so much info
out there, it's hard to sort out the 'truth of the matter' .
<Everything... is difficult at first my friend.>
Maybe the best way
to do this is to ask, "Is he selling something"? www.garf.org does sell,
but they are also very knowledgeable as far as I can see. I'll stick
with you Robert for the time being,
<Do not "stick" with "either of
us"... but decide always for yourself on the basis of your
understanding>
you appear to be the most dedicated, informative,
knowledgeable and passionate person I've seen out there in the great
WWW. I love your site and have made it my Home Page. So, this means
you'll be hearing from me often!
Pam
<I look forward to our
sharing. Bob Fenner>
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