|
| |
|
FAQs on Marine Water Supplements,
Rationale/Use
Related Articles: Marine System
Additives, Marine Maintenance,
Understanding
Calcium & Alkalinity,
Related FAQs: Marine
Supplements 1, Marine
Supplements 2, Marine Supplements 3,
Marine Supplements 4, & FAQs on Marine Supplement:
Science, Measuring,
Using, Troubleshooting/Fixing...
Products/DIY & Brands, &
Biominerals,
Iodine, Calcium and
Alkalinity,
|
Do you actually need to add "supplements"? What for? Perhaps your source
water, synthetic salt mix, dissolving substrates, foods... can/are supplying
all your livestock need, can use... Testing and observation are requisite.
|
Adding Supplements (Testing/Determining
Need…Product Selection) – 08/08/08
I was wondering about adding supplements to my reef tank.
<<As with most all topics re the hobby…can be quite controversial. But most all
authors will agree, supplementation should always be accompanied by purposeful
testing of those elements being added>>
The tank is 140 gallons and I was just wondering if this is a good supplement
schedule?
Thanks,
Thomas von Bargen
Supplement adding schedule:
Kent Marine Phytoplex and MicroVert -
Use either one or the other not both at the same time.
1) Shake bottle
2) Add four caps
3) Feed two times a week
Kent Marine Tech-M Magnesium -
1) Shake bottle
2) Add 1/4 tsb per 50 gallons
3) Once a week
Kent Marine Concentrated Iodine -
1) Shake bottle
2) Add 3 cap full every other day
Kent Marine CB part A -
1) Shake well
2) Add 7 caps of part a never mix Part A&B -
3) Add every day
Kent marine CB part B -
1) Shake well
2) Add seven caps of part B never mix A&B
3) Add everyday
<<Okay, a few things to state here… First let me establish that there is no way
on the limited info provided that I can advise on the “quantity and frequency”
of these dosages. You will need to obtain and use test kits for Magnesium and
Iodine, as well as for Calcium and Alkalinity to firstly establish a “need” for
these ions. If the test kits show a need for supplementation, then you will have
to use those measurements along with the manufacturers’ instructions to
determine a proper supplementation schedule (please also read here and among the
links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm ). Honestly mate, the
onus is on you here. As for feeding your corals/inverts/reef…I am a big
proponent of this…and though it depends on the specific livestock needs of your
system, twice a week is a good general schedule. Target feeding is best when
possible/practical, but “blanket” feeding of the tank is also of benefit when
done judiciously in my opinion…but not with the artificially preserved bottled
products you have listed. I advise you stop use of the Kent products (do a
search on our site re “pollution in a bottle”) and switch to “frozen” foods like
Rotifers, Cyclops and/or Cyclops-Eeze, Oyster Eggs, Nutramar Ova (prawn eggs),
Plankton, and the like for this purpose. The frozen fare (after thawing of
course) will be more nutritious and importantly, more readily accepted/ingested
by your tank inhabitants. For dosing Phytoplankton, I recommend either the
spray-dried (ESV) or refrigerated (DT’s) products…but used very sparingly/with
caution. Regards, EricR>>
Soft Coral Supplements 4/22/07
I have a 55 gal reef tank with many soft corals in it.
I am currently dosing with B-Ionic 2 part and Iodine.
<Okay>
I also add Purple up every so often along with essential elements and pro
buffer when needed.
<Mmm... is there a need for these? All biomineral and alkalinity needed, desired
can be supplied with the above two-part product...>
My levels are all good around 450 on calcium and an alkalinity around 10-11.
My question is that I don't really see my corals really growing fast or
expanding to good. They have kind of just stayed the same.
<Mmm... do you feed them?>
I wanted to add Black Powder supplement, would that be ok?
<For what purpose? I am not a fan>
Also, I am going to start putting Cyclop-eeze in the tank, will that help out
too.
<Likely so>
I figure I can start to experiment with other supplements
<Whoa! Please tell me this is a slip, or just a casual joke of some sort... You
do NOT want to "start to experiment with other supplements" I assure you>
as long as my parameters don't fluctuate to much and as long as the tanks
calcium, alkalinity, iodine, magnesium, etc stay at there appropriate levels. Is
this true?
Thanks.
<... no. Much that can be, should be stated here... and I do wish I had the time
to write it up succinctly... but will have to refer you for now... Please read
on WWM re the use of Marine Supplements:
http://wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm
and the linked files above where you lead yourself... I would NOT add anything
to your system w/o you understanding the probable use/rationale, capacity to
test for, the likely interactions... and consequences. Supplement Madness (my
term) is a very common cause of self-induced problems, losses... Bob Fenner>
- Trace Elements 6/24/06 -
Mr. Fenner,
<Actually, Mr. Chodakowski today.>
I want to first say what a pleasure it was to hear your presentation to the
SCMAS last week. I found you (as usual) most informative and 'easy on the
ears.' I appreciate it that you came to our Society.
I have questions, which are similar but different. Much has been discussed (and
argued as usual) about making additions of trace elements to our marine
aquariums. I'd like your opinion and any reference you can point me towards
regarding these questions:
Assuming 'normal' water changes every two weeks:
1) Does adding trace elements contribute to macro algae growth and health? <Not
usually in a marine environment. If we were talking about a planted freshwater
tank, then yes supplements are beneficial.>
2) Does adding trace elements to a reef aquarium have any benefits for the
livestock? <Really depends on THE trace element we're talking about. Typically
the real "trace" [read as: available in tiny amounts] elements are replenished
by regular water changes with a quality salt mix. Other items which are
necessary in larger amounts like calcium may need additional supplementation.>
3) Does adding trace elements to a fish only (with or without live rock)
aquarium have any benefits to the fish? <Once again, it really depends on which
trace element we're talking about. I take vitamins, so I give my fish
vitamins... this is a viable use of trace elements, but perhaps not the ones you
were talking about...>
Again, I appreciate your involvement in our hobby and the time you shared with
SCMAS members. I hope you can find some time to express your opinion(s) about
trace element additions.
Sincerely,
LEE B.
<Cheers, J --> <<Mine are very similar to those of Jas's stated here. RMF>>
General supplementing, SW 8/17/06
Hello,
<Good evening!>
I have a general question. We recently hired a person to come in and clean our
tank once a month. We have a 90 gallon with a few fish and
mushrooms, polyps and a candy cane coral. I was adding supplements such as
calcium iodine and strontium, Moly weekly and he told me to stop. He
said that regular monthly water changes would be better then adding supplements
and that you shouldn't add anything in the tank that you
cant test for. Ever since I stopped our candy cane coral isn't looking so hot.
Is he correct in his opinion?
<Well, Nancy, yes and no. There are a lot of ifs here. Like the salt mix
you're using. Some salts have more reef needed additives in them than
others. I do dose weekly on essentials that are depleted in my tank even though
I am very diligent about weekly water changes also (you should be, in my
opinion, doing smaller weekly changes instead of the larger monthly changes that
you're currently doing. Its better for the overall health of the tank). The
key here is to have the proper testing kits to make sure you aren't too low or
too high on elements like iodine. You can purchase these and I highly recommend
it. Considering what you have in your tank, however, you probably don't need
more than what the salt mix provides. You do not have corals that have a
major draw on any specific additive - but I would switch to at least bi-weekly
water changes to make sure. The choice is really up to you want to handle
this. Jen S.>
Thanks,
Nancy
Reef Tank Supplements 11/26/07
Hello,
<Hey Nick, JustinN with you tonight.>
I have been successfully keeping my reef tank for over one and a half years now
and it seems my corals have stopped growing. I know about all of these different
supplements. I work at an aquarium store, so I have access to them. I just want
to know if there are certain supplements or certain brands that are better than
others that you would recommend. I have 2 mushroom rocks, one elephant ear, 2
brown and yellow zoo colonies, a bubble coral, a colt coral, and a starburst
colony. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
<Well, Nick, you really don't give us enough information to go on here. Tank
size, current parameters, other tank inhabitants, equipment, maintenance
schedule, and exactly what supplements you're using are nowhere to be found. Are
you testing for all the supplements you're adding? Do you understand the balance
between alkalinity and calcium levels? Much to learn, know here and we're only
being given a small porthole to the picture. -JustinN>
Re: Reef Tank Supplements 11/26/07
<Hey again, Nick. JustinN with you again.>
Sorry,
<Is alright, thank you for clarifying>
I have a 54 gallon reef aquarium with a Fluval 404 filter, a T-5 dual lighting
system, 50 pounds of live rock with lots of coralline algae.
I have 2 percula clowns, 2 Banggai cardinals, 2 green chromis, a six line
wrasse, a coral beauty, about 30 blue legs, 10 Scarlets, and 20
tricolor hermit crabs.
<60 hermits?! Can you even see the sand?? Just kidding, of course, but this is
an awful lot of opportunistic feeders, especially for this relatively small in
comparison tank. Perhaps snails would be more appropriate?>
I have been testing the Nitrite, Nitrate, Ammonia, and pH. Nitrite levels are at
0 ppm and the tank has already gone through the nitrite, nitrate, and ammonia
spikes. Nitrate is 0 ppm. Ammonia is 0 ppm, and the pH is about 8.0. I know this
is low so I am adding one teaspoon of Seachem's Reef Buffer twice a week. I
clean the filter once every two months. The tank is kept at a stable 78 degrees
F. I am also adding Kent PhytoPlex Phytoplankton three times a week (a teaspoon
and a half). I understand my ignorance and I apologize. But I do not understand
the balance between alkalinity and calcium.
Thanks again,
Nick
<I would recommend against the addition of the Reef Buffer, until you have a bit
more of an understanding of alkalinity, calcium, and how pH relates to both. I
recommend you thoroughly read the wonderful article by Anthony Calfo on the
issue, located here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm Your low pH could be indicative of
a further imbalance existing in your water, and I would recommend getting your
hands on a calcium and an alkalinity test to add to your regimen. Please feel
free to write back if you have any further questions. Hope this helps you!
-JustinN>
SW additives 4/1/07
Hello,
<Good Evening>
I have a 924-gallon system with Fiji Rock and Kenyan rock. I also have around
25 fish, 15 of them being small fish like damsels etc.
I am starting to add soft corals, leathers, polyps etc. I do a 53 gallon change
every 2 weeks with synthetic salt of course. My question is should I be adding
iodine, strontium, and trace elements or is there enough in the salt?
<Simple test kits will determine this but without a large coral population as of
yet they should be adequately maintained with the water changes, but as with
most things, tests give figures. Also these will depend on the brand of salt
used>
Sump lab is out of picture. This was taken a while ago, since then I have added
more rock and some soft corals. Still a work in progress really but my fish love
the space.
<Is and will be quite a tank once completed>
Many Thanks,
James.
<Olly>
The Necessity of Additives...
Hi Guys,
<Scott F. your guy today!>
Just set up a new 125 reef tank, transferring from a 29 gal. which I am going to
keep up as a small-aggressive type tank, maybe 1 trigger, Imperator, and
puffer, etc. What can I use as clean up critters in that tank that the trigger
won't eat?
<Very little, actually! Snails and hermit crabs will be snapped up like so
much popcorn! In these types of systems, there is really no substitute for good
husbandry and talented use of the siphon hose by the aquarist!>
In this tank I was using previously strontium and iodine twice a week. In my new
125, my reef store guy suggested B-Ionic part 1 and 2 instead. The bottle tells
you to use this once a day. Can I get away with twice a week like before. Is
this stuff that great, or should I stick with my previous strontium and iodine,
or can you suggest something better?
<B-Ionic is a great product, IMO. Do ask yourself, however, what purpose you
are adding things for. You should always test for anything that you add to a
system. In most systems, strontium and iodine are replenished via regular
frequent water changes. If there is some sort of deficiency in your system
revealed by regular testing, then their addition is warranted. B-Ionic is designed
to help maintain the calcium/alkalinity balance in your system. The frequency
and amount of the dosage can only be confirmed through- you guessed it-
testing!>
This tank will have mostly soft coral, maybe a couple of hard, a couple of reef
safe fish, and a pink Anemone. Also just bought RO/DI set-up. Can I store some
of this water for topping, and also pre-mixed with salt for water changes, if I
store in, say, a container like the Instant Ocean comes in, with a big O-ring
gasket cover, and if so for how long?
<I'd make it a few days ahead of time, so that you have a supply ready to
go.>
Hate to be so long, but I hear so much, and you guys have always steered me in
the right direction.
Thanks, Louie
<Glad to be here for you, Louie! Regards, Scott F>
Coral Food and Supplementation
Hello,
I have two questions. Sorry. You guys are very informative and your
website rocks.
1) My question is about supplementation and food for corals and
invertebrates. I have the following animals in my tank.
Corals:
Green Bubble
Candy Cane
Mushroom
Zoos
Kenya tree
Invertebrates
Feather Duster
Hardware
46G Bowfront
30-40 lbs of LR
2 96W PC
Rena Canister Filter
Fluval 404 Filter - with Bio Material only
Aqua C Remora
Internal MaxiJet for additional flow
I have been looking for some good advice at what to feed my corals and
invertebrates. There are about 4 LFS within 30 mile radius from my
house. Each time I go to them for questions they always try to sell me
stuff. Which after reading your site, I realized that I don't really need
them. One of the LFS told me that since I have my skimmer running 24 X
7, I need to constantly replenish my trace elements, thus selling me the
Reef Solution, and Coral Vite solution. As for food, they sold me Krill,
silverside, Marine Snow, Kent Filter feeders. I just had enough from
them. I also went to them with the question of Iodine. I read that
mushrooms needs a supplement of iodine and again they tried to sell be the
Lugo Iodine. Even after I told them that the Reef Solution already
contained Iodine and No, I do not have a test for Iodine yet. I am tired
of going to my LFS store with the feeling of being taken advantage of.
<I can sense this>
After I started going to your website, I stopped asking them questions and
started to go to the LFS knowing already what I need. So could you
please point me to the right direction as to a brand of supplements and
food you recommend?
<... you need, test kits... for whatever it is you believe you're needing to
add... I would get/use something for alkalinity and calcium and leave all else
out here... Along with water changes, careful feeding, you don't need, nor
likely want more.>
I feed my Green bubble coral silverside and chopped
squid. Frogspawn, Zoos, Candy cane, Feather Duster I am not sure that
filter food brand to give.
<Best to add a live sump, aka a refugium to this set-up, and rely on this as a
principal food provider for your filter feeders. Many other benefits as well...>
2) Question
I have a feather duster that lost its crown last week. I have not
removed the tube in fear that the worm may still be alive. At the same
time I am afraid that is the worm is dead then the tube may decomposed in
my tank thus creating a bioload nightmare from hell.
<Not to worry... In a system of your size, make-up, no big deal>
I have hermit crabs
in my tank and the hermit crabs has not jumped on the tube yet. Thus is
my indicator that the tube is still alive. I know that the hermit crabs
will know that the tube is decomposing thus they will try to eat it. I
am I correct with these assumptions? Or should I try to grab the tube to
check if the worm is still alive?
thank you
Louie
<I would leave it as is. Keep reading, chatting with other hobbyists... and
maintaining a skeptical mind... you'll do fine. Bob Fenner>
Additives/supplements
Hi-ya! Out of curiosity, are the additives/supplements that are sold for
daily, weekly, bi-weekly dosings really necessary?
<For some applications, iodine can be useful.>
Does weekly water changes have enough of the trace elements in the salt mixes to
really warrant adding more?
<Weekly water changes would be far more beneficial to your tank's health than
any combination of supplements.>
I can understand adding calcium and the occasional buffer if needed,
but why the trace stuff? Cheap money making ploy? Kim
<You said it, not me. -Steven Pro>
Reef supplements
can you recommend a good supplement that contains the trace, calcium,
strontium and whatever else is needed for coral growth and health.
<one product is not possible for this purpose, my friend. Calcium and
carbonates much be added separately and Iodine is an organic.<<? No. RMF>> So three is the
minimum without doing daily water changes to replace minerals/elements>
I hate to have 6 bottles to deal with if there's a good multi-supplement on the
market thanks Robert
<the easy route would be Bionic 2-part supplements and Iodine. The better
route would be to include Kalkwasser with a calcium reactor, water changes and
Iodine IMO. Best regards, Anthony>
Reef supplements
can you recommend a good supplement that contains the trace, calcium,
strontium and whatever else is needed for coral growth and health. I
hate to have 6 bottles to deal with if there's a good multi-supplement on
the market <<Even under the best of circumstances, you're still going to
end up with more than one bottle. Many of these substances need to be stored
separate from others so that they don't have their own private reaction party in
the bottle, and in addition all have different dose amounts which just wouldn't
work if they were all packed into the same bottle.>>
thanks
Robert
<<Cheers, J -- >>
Trace Elements
I now use a calcium reactor with Korallith media, and I am wondering - with so
many trace elements being dissolved, is there any need to continue adding
bottled trace elements such as: Kent Marine Tech I, Kent Marine Essential
Elements or any of the other additives I used before?
<I am not a big additive fan to begin with. I only maintain calcium and
alkalinity and experiment with iodine for my Xenia.>
Is the calcium reactor taking care of pretty much all of this now?
<That and water changes, though you may still want to dose iodine.>
I know my calcium and alkalinity are great. Thanks! Steven Youngblood
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Chemical addictives?
Hey Bob:
I thought I would drop you just a thought.
I was looking through my past notes and correction of errors I keep since I have been in the hobby for the last 1 1/2 years and I noticed most of my major deaths comes from over adding chemical and trace elements. Let me explain.
I have a 55gallon reef with some fish. running protein skimmer, carbon backpack filter,
U.V. sterilizer, Undergravel filter, 1" crushed corral, gravel tidy netting then sand 1", 1
powerhead, liverock, pc lighting, and 2 air pumps ( 1 for the skimmer and 1 for just air). I also do about 20% water change every 2 weeks with corral life salt mix and distilled water.
I add Kent corral-Vite trace elements on Sundays and Kent's coral essentials on
Wednesdays.
My levels are always as follows
PH--8.3
ammonia--0
nitrites--0
nitrates--.10 to .20
alkalinity--2.5meq/L
calcium--450 ppm
My calcium is always high. But I am always having to add the alkalinity booster. Containing more calcium. Plus consistently adding the trace elements as advise by the
LFS.
My coralline algae is spreading. My star polyps are spreading and growing. My Xenia's have more than double in the last month. And my fish (purple tang 4", bi-color blenny 4", sand sifting goby 4", citron clown 1", mandarin 3", flame hawk 2", 2
Percula clowns 1.5" and 5 starfishes) and
F.F.E. cleanup crew look fine. I got so many starfishes remember the story I sent you about the one losing it's legs?).
My livestock looks pretty good most of the time. Right now my elegance is starting to show the "burn" from
super saturation. I have experience this once before by when I was using a bio-calcium supplement that says it has everything needed and I used it strictly by it's direction. And burned up several torch corrals, elegance corral, tangs, and basically killed off a tank full.
I have come to the conclusion the adding of all these chemicals can be more dangerous than not having a regular cleaning schedule. But my problem is how can I add the trace elements and chemicals needed to keep the ph and alkalinity up to par and the needed trace elements to promote growth for the corral and fish. Without the calcium "burn"? All the chemicals and buffers seem to have a high calcium content. And how can I know when to add some of the other needed trace elements since all trace elements can't be tested for?
This is a problem for me and probably all the other inexperienced hobbyist. KJ
>>
Amen, and I can't believe my luck. I swear I did not put you up to writing this query/statement... besides, it's better written than I could have done! Yes! Many more organisms are bumped off from "supplement madness" than none being added at all. This being stated, YES, calcium (and some Mg,
Sr...) and carbonates, bicarbonates et al. for buffer capacity are necessary... but/and how to "add them"?
There is a whole line of approaches here: predicated on the bases of what the hobbyist is intending to do, what they're set-up comprises, gear and livestock-wise...
In order of importance (Sez Me!) these are:
1) Proper set-up... live rock (of the right types...), substrate... other decor, can/will add these materials in moderation... once again, depending on your set-up circumstances and goals... Crowded systems (with biomineralizing biota), that are boosted with intense, high PAR light... are going to become alkaline earth and buffer deficient...
2) Water changes... especially with synthetic salt mixes... (versus natural waters that have very little useful "supplement" material in them... add a substantial amount of assimilable matter of utility.
3) Calcium, aka Kalkreactors... that incorporate highly soluble "reef based" starter feeder stock of mineral and carbon dioxide to melt it down... are going to be HUGE in the hobby/trade... People are FOOLS for not utilizing these units IMO... for about a hundred dollars a year (compare this with the amazing sums people pay the "additive" companies per annum) you can have a very easy to regulate, phenomenal method of supplying about the right mix of about the right types of minerals... without the always-accruing eventuality of poisoning from selective supplementing....
4) "Balanced" additives. A few companies actually have compound mixes or miscible solids/solutions that "work" together to yield high alkalinity and high calcium and moderate pH... (Kent,
SeaChem... a few others). If you're going the supplement madness route: USE ONLY ONE
COMPANY'S LINE. Is this clear? HOPE SO!
5) CaOH (Kalkwasser, lime, pickling...), Calcium chloride, polygluconate calcium... and as far as I'm concerned: THE REST. Are tools of last resort... Along with regular, large water changes, these "additives" should be VERY CAREFULLY MONITORED... with test kits... I DO NOT USE THEM, OUR CORAL FARM DOES NOT USE THEM, THE COLLECTING, CULTURING FACILITIES WE HELP SET UP AROUND THE WORLD DO NOT USE THEM...
Bob Fenner, who IS going to expand this fervor into an article for the hobby press.
Lighting & Supplements
Bob,
I read most of the FAQs and got the impression that you don't really believe
supplements are necessary. Your book left me with that impression, too,
though I have not checked it for that specific detail recently...Your answer
below seems to confirm that...
<Yes... I agree with your assessment>
So, when you say you agree that biominerals should be supplied and there
should be an alkaline reserve, are those things usually supplied by frequent
water changes and substrate changing?
<Yes... synthetic salt mixes are formulated to have more biomineral and alkaline content than NSW (natural seawater)>
Should I be testing for Ca to see if I NEED to supplement?
<If your animals require it, yes>
I don't test for
that at the moment, so I have no idea what my Ca level is. I do change
about 6 gallons of water (just under 10% of the 65 gallon tank + 5 or so
gallons in the sump) once every week or two. Most of the time, it's every
week. Sometimes I slip and let it go two weeks. My Ammonia, Nitrite,
Nitrate, pH, and phosphate levels are consistently good, so I think the
water changes are adequate. I think I read on your WetWebMedia site last
week that I could change the water less frequently than once/week and still
maintain good water conditions.
<You are right. Tienes razon. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again,
John
Re: Lighting & Supplements
Bob,
Re: supplying biomineral and alkaline reserve
I am a bit confused about which supplements I need and which I do not.
<An easy area of confusion for sure>
I
get the impression that I should test for Ca and probably supplement Ca. Is
something like Red Sea's Calcium + 3 (Ca, St, Mo & Io) a good product, or do
you recommend another way?
<This is an okay route to go... folks should test for whatever they're adding... Please read through the "supplement" FAQs posted on the Marine part of our site: www.WetWebMedia.com for more here>
I am not sure I want to add more equipment (e.g.
calcium reactor) if I can avoid it.
<I would add no more gear than you want, need/is necessary... Most folks can/could get along fine with simple water changes, using/augmenting substrates periodically... in non-boosted (overlit mainly) systems... Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your help,
John
Reef tank
hello again Robert, thanks very much for replying to my last email.
my query this time is trace elements should I dose iodine, calcium etc and how much.
I have had my reef tank for 3years
and never added anything.
<You may not have to, or benefit from such additions... many "non-driven" (i.e. not boosted lighting, carbon dioxide or other factor) systems do fine with "regular" maintenance (e.g. water changes) and maintenance (e.g. feeding)...>
my tank is 50 gallons, I have
5 tubes 2 4foot LifeGlo 1 4foot triton 1 4foot MarineGlo 1 4foot marine white. with mirrored inside hood. 1
Fluval ext [303] 3 internals,1 with carbon, 1ext protein skimmer,
I have a selection of soft corals [13] which are all doing great plus I have also
cut off 6 small frags ? they are also doing well, 1tube anemone, 2 mushroom
corals,2 lots of xenia, plus loads of Caulerpa. fish are 2 damsels, 1 watchman
gobie,1 cardinal, 1coral beauty. my nitrate 0 ph 8.4 sg 1.22. I do have a touch
of troublesome algae but nothing to serious. I cant help thinking if I dose
with supplements it could be better. I feed the corals through a syringe with various foods. could you please help me on this query, and any helpful hints on my set up. cheers Paul.
<Hmm, "nothing succeeds like success" (Zig Zigler I believe)... I wouldn't add anything to this system if you're happy with the results thus far... If you do develop a supplementing habit, do test and record your inputs, measures... Bob Fenner>
Mushroom question
Hi Bob,
Please clarify for me just one more time, because both GARF and one of your
associates told me that mushrooms only need iodine supplementation and only
need
calcium suppl. if you want coralline algae growth. I know I have to
maintain good
water parameters (pH, Alk, temp, ammon, etc.), but I am trying to simplify
my tank
in both expense and time in going with the mushrooms. To ask it again, do I
really
need to supplement for calcium, mag, stront, etc, in these non stony corals?
<Not supplement... but understand that these are essential elements... you/they need to have sufficient concentration in the systems water for health, growth... A good idea to test, understand what is/may be involved in possibly augmenting... Please do yourself and your livestock service and read more widely. Don't ask just myself, or any other concern on the Net what is advised. A ready source of more useful, "balanced" information are books, chatforums (ours: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/), magazines, clubs...>
I read
your web site recommendations but the specifics were not there. Farewell
again.
<Do keep journeying for a more complete grasping of what you seek. Bob Fenner>
Reef plus
I haven't set up with corals just yet but are hoping to sometime next week I
have a 432 liter tank and the reef plus say to add 5ml per 80L or to desired amount
needed for corals 2 twice per week will I really need to add this much because in
Australia they charge $20 a bottle and this will run out just about every month
<Mmm... I would study the simpler aspects of reef aquarium water chemistry and with the gained understanding, use of test kits, determine what values you are trying to
achieve and look into less expensive means of accomplishing what you're looking for. Please read through the links posted here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Marind4of6.htm
under Water Quality, Tests, Testing. Bob Fenner>
| |
|
