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FAQs on Marine Water Supplements, Rationale/Use
Related Articles: Marine System Additives,
Marine Maintenance, Understanding
Calcium & Alkalinity,
The Use of Kalkwasser by Russell Schultz,
Related FAQs: Marine Supplements 1,
Marine Supplements 2, Marine
Supplements 3, Marine Supplements 4,
& FAQs on Marine Supplement: Science,
Measuring, Using,
Troubleshooting/Fixing... Products/DIY &
Brands, & Biominerals,
Iodine, Calcium and Alkalinity, |
Do you actually need to add "supplements"? What for? Perhaps your
source water, synthetic salt mix, dissolving substrates, foods...
can/are supplying all your livestock need, can use... Testing and
observation are requisite. |
Adding Supplements (Testing/Determining Need…Product Selection) –
08/08/08
I was wondering about adding supplements to my reef
tank.
<<As with most all topics re the hobby…can be quite
controversial. But most all authors will agree, supplementation should
always be accompanied by purposeful testing of those elements being
added>>
The tank is 140 gallons and I was just wondering if this is a
good supplement schedule?
Thanks,
Thomas von Bargen
Supplement
adding schedule:
Kent Marine Phytoplex and MicroVert -
Use either
one or the other not both at the same time.
1) Shake bottle
2)
Add four caps
3) Feed two times a week
Kent Marine Tech-M
Magnesium -
1) Shake bottle
2) Add 1/4 tsb per 50 gallons
3)
Once a week
Kent Marine Concentrated Iodine -
1) Shake bottle
2) Add 3 cap full every other day
Kent Marine CB part A -
1) Shake
well
2) Add 7 caps of part a never mix Part A&B -
3) Add every day
Kent marine CB part B -
1) Shake well
2) Add seven caps of part B
never mix A&B
3) Add everyday
<<Okay, a few things to state here…
First let me establish that there is no way on the limited info provided
that I can advise on the “quantity and frequency” of these dosages. You
will need to obtain and use test kits for Magnesium and Iodine, as well
as for Calcium and Alkalinity to firstly establish a “need” for these
ions. If the test kits show a need for supplementation, then you will
have to use those measurements along with the manufacturers’
instructions to determine a proper supplementation schedule (please also
read here and among the links in blue:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm ). Honestly mate, the onus is on
you here. As for feeding your corals/inverts/reef…I am a big proponent
of this…and though it depends on the specific livestock needs of your
system, twice a week is a good general schedule. Target feeding is best
when possible/practical, but “blanket” feeding of the tank is also of
benefit when done judiciously in my opinion…but not with the
artificially preserved bottled products you have listed. I advise you
stop use of the Kent products (do a search on our site re “pollution in
a bottle”) and switch to “frozen” foods like Rotifers, Cyclops and/or
Cyclops-Eeze, Oyster Eggs, Nutramar Ova (prawn eggs), Plankton, and the
like for this purpose. The frozen fare (after thawing of course) will be
more nutritious and importantly, more readily accepted/ingested by your
tank inhabitants. For dosing Phytoplankton, I recommend either the
spray-dried (ESV) or refrigerated (DT’s) products…but used very
sparingly/with caution. Regards, EricR>> Soft
Coral Supplements 4/22/07
I have a 55 gal reef tank
with many soft corals in it.
I am currently dosing with B-Ionic 2
part and Iodine.
<Okay>
I also add Purple up
every so often along with essential elements and pro buffer when needed.
<Mmm... is there a need for these? All biomineral and alkalinity needed,
desired can be supplied with the above two-part product...>
My levels are all good around 450 on calcium and an alkalinity around
10-11.
My question is that I don't really see my corals really
growing fast or expanding to good. They have kind of just stayed the
same.
<Mmm... do you feed them?>
I wanted to add Black Powder
supplement, would that be ok?
<For what purpose? I am not a fan>
Also, I am going to start putting Cyclop-eeze in the tank, will that
help out too.
<Likely so>
I figure I can
start to experiment with other supplements
<Whoa! Please tell me
this is a slip, or just a casual joke of some sort... You do NOT want to
"start to experiment with other supplements" I assure you>
as long
as my parameters don't fluctuate to much and as long as the tanks
calcium, alkalinity, iodine, magnesium, etc stay at there appropriate
levels. Is this true?
Thanks.
<... no. Much
that can be, should be stated here... and I do wish I had the time to
write it up succinctly... but will have to refer you for now... Please
read on WWM re the use of Marine Supplements:
http://wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm
and the linked files above
where you lead yourself... I would NOT add anything to your system w/o
you understanding the probable use/rationale, capacity to test for, the
likely interactions... and consequences. Supplement Madness (my term) is
a very common cause of self-induced problems, losses... Bob Fenner>
- Trace Elements 6/24/06 -
Mr. Fenner,
<Actually, Mr.
Chodakowski today.>
I want to first say what a pleasure it was to
hear your presentation to the SCMAS last week. I found you (as usual)
most informative and 'easy on the ears.' I appreciate it that you came
to our Society.
I have questions, which are similar but
different. Much has been discussed (and argued as usual) about making
additions of trace elements to our marine aquariums. I'd like your
opinion and any reference you can point me towards regarding these
questions:
Assuming 'normal' water changes every two weeks:
1) Does adding trace elements contribute to macro algae growth and
health? <Not usually in a marine environment. If we were talking about a
planted freshwater tank, then yes supplements are beneficial.>
2) Does adding trace elements to a reef aquarium have any benefits for
the livestock? <Really depends on THE trace element we're talking about.
Typically the real "trace" [read as: available in tiny amounts] elements
are replenished by regular water changes with a quality salt mix. Other
items which are necessary in larger amounts like calcium may need
additional supplementation.>
3) Does adding trace elements to a
fish only (with or without live rock) aquarium have any benefits to the
fish? <Once again, it really depends on which trace element we're
talking about. I take vitamins, so I give my fish vitamins... this is a
viable use of trace elements, but perhaps not the ones you were talking
about...>
Again, I appreciate your involvement in our hobby and the
time you shared with SCMAS members. I hope you can find some time to
express your opinion(s) about trace element additions.
Sincerely,
LEE B.
<Cheers, J --> <<Mine are very similar to those of Jas's
stated here. RMF>> General supplementing,
SW 8/17/06
Hello,
<Good evening!>
I have a
general question. We recently hired a person to come in and clean our
tank once a month. We have a 90 gallon with a few fish and mushrooms,
polyps and a candy cane coral. I was adding supplements such as calcium
iodine and strontium, Moly weekly and he told me to stop. He said that
regular monthly water changes would be better then adding supplements
and that you shouldn't add anything in the tank that you cant test for.
Ever since I stopped our candy cane coral isn't looking so hot. Is he
correct in his opinion?
<Well, Nancy, yes and no. There are a lot
of ifs here. Like the salt mix you're using. Some salts have more reef
needed additives in them than others. I do dose weekly on essentials
that are depleted in my tank even though I am very diligent about weekly
water changes also (you should be, in my opinion, doing smaller weekly
changes instead of the larger monthly changes that you're currently
doing. Its better for the overall health of the tank). The key here is
to have the proper testing kits to make sure you aren't too low or too
high on elements like iodine. You can purchase these and I highly
recommend it. Considering what you have in your tank, however, you
probably don't need more than what the salt mix provides. You do not
have corals that have a major draw on any specific additive - but I
would switch to at least bi-weekly water changes to make sure. The
choice is really up to you want to handle this. Jen S.>
Thanks,
Nancy
Reef Tank Supplements 11/26/07
Hello,
<Hey Nick, JustinN with you tonight.>
I have been
successfully keeping my reef tank for over one and a half years now and
it seems my corals have stopped growing. I know about all of these
different supplements. I work at an aquarium store, so I have access to
them. I just want to know if there are certain supplements or certain
brands that are better than others that you would recommend. I have 2
mushroom rocks, one elephant ear, 2 brown and yellow zoo colonies, a
bubble coral, a colt coral, and a starburst colony. Any advice would be
greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
<Well, Nick, you really
don't give us enough information to go on here. Tank size, current
parameters, other tank inhabitants, equipment, maintenance schedule, and
exactly what supplements you're using are nowhere to be found. Are you
testing for all the supplements you're adding? Do you understand the
balance between alkalinity and calcium levels? Much to learn, know here
and we're only being given a small porthole to the picture. -JustinN>
Re: Reef Tank Supplements 11/26/07
<Hey again,
Nick. JustinN with you again.>
Sorry,
<Is alright, thank you for
clarifying>
I have a 54 gallon reef aquarium with a Fluval 404
filter, a T-5 dual lighting system, 50 pounds of live rock with lots of
coralline algae.
I have 2 percula clowns, 2 Banggai
cardinals, 2 green chromis, a six line wrasse, a coral beauty, about 30
blue legs, 10 Scarlets, and 20
tricolor hermit crabs.
<60 hermits?! Can you even see the sand?? Just kidding, of course, but
this is an awful lot of opportunistic feeders, especially for this
relatively small in comparison tank. Perhaps snails would be more
appropriate?>
I have been testing the Nitrite, Nitrate, Ammonia, and
pH. Nitrite levels are at 0 ppm and the tank has already gone through
the nitrite, nitrate, and ammonia spikes. Nitrate is 0 ppm. Ammonia is
0 ppm, and the pH is about 8.0. I know this is low so I am adding
one teaspoon of Seachem's Reef Buffer twice a week. I clean the
filter once every two months. The tank is kept at a stable 78 degrees F.
I am also adding Kent PhytoPlex Phytoplankton three times a week
(a teaspoon and a half). I understand my ignorance and I apologize.
But I do not understand the balance between alkalinity and calcium.
Thanks again,
Nick
<I would recommend against the addition of
the Reef Buffer, until you have a bit more of an understanding of
alkalinity, calcium, and how pH relates to both. I recommend you
thoroughly read the wonderful article by Anthony Calfo on the issue,
located here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm Your low pH could be
indicative of a further imbalance existing in your water, and I would
recommend getting your hands on a calcium and an alkalinity test to add
to your regimen. Please feel free to write back if you have any further
questions. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>
SW additives
4/1/07
Hello,
<Good Evening>
I have a 924-gallon system
with Fiji Rock and Kenyan rock. I also have around 25 fish, 15 of them
being small fish like damsels etc.
I am starting to add soft corals,
leathers, polyps etc. I do a 53 gallon change every 2 weeks with
synthetic salt of course. My question is should I be adding iodine,
strontium, and trace elements or is there enough in the salt?
<Simple test kits will determine this but without a large coral
population as of yet they should be adequately maintained with the water
changes, but as with most things, tests give figures. Also these will
depend on the brand of salt used>
Sump lab is out of picture. This
was taken a while ago, since then I have added more rock and some soft
corals. Still a work in progress really but my fish love the space.
<Is and will be quite a tank once completed>
Many Thanks,
James.
<Olly> The Necessity of
Additives...
Hi Guys,
<Scott F. your guy today!>
Just set
up a new 125 reef tank, transferring from a 29 gal. which I am going to
keep up as a small-aggressive type tank, maybe 1 trigger,
Imperator, and puffer, etc. What can I use as clean up critters in that
tank that the trigger won't eat?
<Very little, actually! Snails and
hermit crabs will be snapped up like so much popcorn! In these types of
systems, there is really no substitute for good husbandry and talented
use of the siphon hose by the aquarist!>
In this tank I was using
previously strontium and iodine twice a week. In my new 125, my reef
store guy suggested B-Ionic part 1 and 2 instead. The bottle tells you
to use this once a day. Can I get away with twice a week like before. Is
this stuff that great, or should I stick with my previous strontium and
iodine, or can you suggest something better?
<B-Ionic is a great
product, IMO. Do ask yourself, however, what purpose you are adding
things for. You should always test for anything that you add to a
system. In most systems, strontium and iodine are replenished via
regular frequent water changes. If there is some sort of deficiency in
your system revealed by regular testing, then their addition is
warranted. B-Ionic is designed to help maintain the calcium/alkalinity
balance in your system. The frequency and amount of the dosage can only
be confirmed through- you guessed it- testing!>
This tank will have
mostly soft coral, maybe a couple of hard, a couple of reef safe fish,
and a pink Anemone. Also just bought RO/DI set-up. Can I store some of
this water for topping, and also pre-mixed with salt for water changes,
if I store in, say, a container like the Instant Ocean comes in, with a
big O-ring gasket cover, and if so for how long?
<I'd make it a few
days ahead of time, so that you have a supply ready to go.>
Hate to
be so long, but I hear so much, and you guys have always steered me in
the right direction.
Thanks, Louie
<Glad to be here for you,
Louie! Regards, Scott F>
Coral Food and Supplementation
Hello,
I have two
questions. Sorry. You guys are very informative and your website rocks.
1) My question is about supplementation and food for corals and
invertebrates. I have the following animals in my tank.
Corals:
Green Bubble
Candy Cane
Mushroom
Zoos
Kenya tree
Invertebrates
Feather Duster
Hardware
46G Bowfront
30-40
lbs of LR
2 96W PC
Rena Canister Filter
Fluval 404 Filter
- with Bio Material only
Aqua C Remora
Internal MaxiJet for
additional flow
I have been looking for some good advice at what to
feed my corals and invertebrates. There are about 4 LFS within 30 mile
radius from my house. Each time I go to them for questions they always
try to sell me stuff. Which after reading your site, I realized that I
don't really need them. One of the LFS told me that since I have my
skimmer running 24 X 7, I need to constantly replenish my trace
elements, thus selling me the Reef Solution, and Coral Vite
solution. As for food, they sold me Krill, silverside, Marine Snow,
Kent Filter feeders. I just had enough from them. I also went to them
with the question of Iodine. I read that mushrooms needs a supplement of
iodine and again they tried to sell be the Lugo Iodine. Even after I
told them that the Reef Solution already contained Iodine and No, I do
not have a test for Iodine yet. I am tired of going to my LFS store
with the feeling of being taken advantage of.
<I can sense this>
After I started going to your website, I stopped asking them questions
and started to go to the LFS knowing already what I need. So could you
please point me to the right direction as to a brand of supplements and
food you recommend?
<... you need, test kits... for whatever it is
you believe you're needing to add... I would get/use something for
alkalinity and calcium and leave all else out here... Along with water
changes, careful feeding, you don't need, nor likely want more.>
I
feed my Green bubble coral silverside and chopped squid. Frogspawn,
Zoos, Candy cane, Feather Duster I am not sure that filter food brand to
give.
<Best to add a live sump, aka a refugium to this set-up, and
rely on this as a principal food provider for your filter feeders. Many
other benefits as well...>
2) Question
I have a feather duster
that lost its crown last week. I have not removed the tube in fear
that the worm may still be alive. At the same time I am afraid that is
the worm is dead then the tube may decomposed in my tank thus creating a
bioload nightmare from hell.
<Not to worry... In a system of your
size, make-up, no big deal>
I have hermit crabs in my tank and the
hermit crabs has not jumped on the tube yet. Thus is my indicator that
the tube is still alive. I know that the hermit crabs will know that
the tube is decomposing thus they will try to eat it. I am I correct
with these assumptions? Or should I try to grab the tube to check if
the worm is still alive?
thank you
Louie
<I would leave it
as is. Keep reading, chatting with other hobbyists... and maintaining a
skeptical mind... you'll do fine. Bob Fenner>
Additives/supplements
Hi-ya! Out of curiosity, are the
additives/supplements that are sold for daily, weekly, bi-weekly dosings
really necessary?
<For some applications, iodine can be useful.>
Does weekly water changes have enough of the trace elements in the salt
mixes to really warrant adding more?
<Weekly water changes would be
far more beneficial to your tank's health than any combination of
supplements.>
I can understand adding calcium and the occasional
buffer if needed, but why the trace stuff? Cheap money making ploy? Kim
<You said it, not me. -Steven Pro> Reef supplements
can
you recommend a good supplement that contains the trace, calcium,
strontium and whatever else is needed for coral growth and health.
<one product is not possible for this purpose, my friend. Calcium and
carbonates much be added separately and Iodine is an organic.<<? No.
RMF>> So three is the minimum without doing daily water changes to
replace minerals/elements>
I hate to have 6 bottles to deal with if
there's a good multi-supplement on the market thanks Robert
<the easy
route would be Bionic 2-part supplements and Iodine. The better route
would be to include Kalkwasser with a calcium reactor, water changes and
Iodine IMO. Best regards, Anthony> Reef supplements
can
you recommend a good supplement that contains the trace, calcium,
strontium and whatever else is needed for coral growth and health. I
hate to have 6 bottles to deal with if there's a good multi-supplement
on the market <<Even under the best of circumstances, you're still going
to end up with more than one bottle. Many of these substances need to be
stored separate from others so that they don't have their own private
reaction party in the bottle, and in addition all have different dose
amounts which just wouldn't work if they were all packed into the same
bottle.>>
thanks
Robert
<<Cheers, J -- >> Trace
Elements
I now use a calcium reactor with Korallith media, and I
am wondering - with so many trace elements being dissolved, is there any
need to continue adding bottled trace elements such as: Kent Marine Tech
I, Kent Marine Essential Elements or any of the other additives I used
before?
<I am not a big additive fan to begin with. I only maintain
calcium and alkalinity and experiment with iodine for my Xenia.>
Is
the calcium reactor taking care of pretty much all of this now?
<That
and water changes, though you may still want to dose iodine.>
I know
my calcium and alkalinity are great. Thanks! Steven Youngblood
<You
are welcome. -Steven Pro> Chemical addictives?
Hey Bob:
I thought I would drop you just a thought.
I was looking through my
past notes and correction of errors I keep since I have been in the
hobby for the last 1 1/2 years and I noticed most of my major deaths
comes from over adding chemical and trace elements. Let me explain.
I have a 55gallon reef with some fish. running protein skimmer, carbon
backpack filter, U.V. sterilizer, Undergravel filter, 1" crushed corral,
gravel tidy netting then sand 1", 1 powerhead, liverock, pc lighting,
and 2 air pumps ( 1 for the skimmer and 1 for just air). I also do about
20% water change every 2 weeks with corral life salt mix and distilled
water.
I add Kent corral-Vite trace elements on Sundays and Kent's
coral essentials on Wednesdays.
My levels are always as follows
PH--8.3
ammonia--0
nitrites--0
nitrates--.10 to .20
alkalinity--2.5meq/L
calcium--450 ppm
My calcium is always high.
But I am always having to add the alkalinity booster. Containing more
calcium. Plus consistently adding the trace elements as advise by the
LFS.
My coralline algae is spreading. My star polyps are spreading
and growing. My Xenia's have more than double in the last month. And my
fish (purple tang 4", bi-color blenny 4", sand sifting goby 4", citron
clown 1", mandarin 3", flame hawk 2", 2 Percula clowns 1.5" and 5
starfishes) and F.F.E. cleanup crew look fine. I got so many starfishes
remember the story I sent you about the one losing it's legs?).
My
livestock looks pretty good most of the time. Right now my elegance is
starting to show the "burn" from super saturation. I have experience
this once before by when I was using a bio-calcium supplement that says
it has everything needed and I used it strictly by it's direction. And
burned up several torch corrals, elegance corral, tangs, and basically
killed off a tank full.
I have come to the conclusion the adding of
all these chemicals can be more dangerous than not having a regular
cleaning schedule. But my problem is how can I add the trace elements
and chemicals needed to keep the ph and alkalinity up to par and the
needed trace elements to promote growth for the corral and fish. Without
the calcium "burn"? All the chemicals and buffers seem to have a high
calcium content. And how can I know when to add some of the other needed
trace elements since all trace elements can't be tested for?
This is
a problem for me and probably all the other inexperienced hobbyist. KJ
>>
Amen, and I can't believe my luck. I swear I did not put you up to
writing this query/statement... besides, it's better written than I
could have done! Yes! Many more organisms are bumped off from
"supplement madness" than none being added at all. This being stated,
YES, calcium (and some Mg, Sr...) and carbonates, bicarbonates et al.
for buffer capacity are necessary... but/and how to "add them"?
There
is a whole line of approaches here: predicated on the bases of what the
hobbyist is intending to do, what they're set-up comprises, gear and
livestock-wise...
In order of importance (Sez Me!) these are:
1)
Proper set-up... live rock (of the right types...), substrate... other
decor, can/will add these materials in moderation... once again,
depending on your set-up circumstances and goals... Crowded systems
(with biomineralizing biota), that are boosted with intense, high PAR
light... are going to become alkaline earth and buffer deficient...
2) Water changes... especially with synthetic salt mixes... (versus
natural waters that have very little useful "supplement" material in
them... add a substantial amount of assimilable matter of utility.
3)
Calcium, aka Kalkreactors... that incorporate highly soluble "reef
based" starter feeder stock of mineral and carbon dioxide to melt it
down... are going to be HUGE in the hobby/trade... People are FOOLS for
not utilizing these units IMO... for about a hundred dollars a year
(compare this with the amazing sums people pay the "additive" companies
per annum) you can have a very easy to regulate, phenomenal method of
supplying about the right mix of about the right types of minerals...
without the always-accruing eventuality of poisoning from selective
supplementing....
4) "Balanced" additives. A few companies actually
have compound mixes or miscible solids/solutions that "work" together to
yield high alkalinity and high calcium and moderate pH... (Kent,
SeaChem... a few others). If you're going the supplement madness route:
USE ONLY ONE COMPANY'S LINE. Is this clear? HOPE SO!
5) CaOH
(Kalkwasser, lime, pickling...), Calcium chloride, polygluconate
calcium... and as far as I'm concerned: THE REST. Are tools of last
resort... Along with regular, large water changes, these "additives"
should be VERY CAREFULLY MONITORED... with test kits... I DO NOT USE
THEM, OUR CORAL FARM DOES NOT USE THEM, THE COLLECTING, CULTURING
FACILITIES WE HELP SET UP AROUND THE WORLD DO NOT USE THEM...
Bob
Fenner, who IS going to expand this fervor into an article for the hobby
press. Lighting & Supplements
Bob,
I read most of the
FAQs and got the impression that you don't really believe supplements
are necessary. Your book left me with that impression, too, though I
have not checked it for that specific detail recently...Your answer
below seems to confirm that...
<Yes... I agree with your assessment>
So, when you say you agree that biominerals should be supplied and there
should be an alkaline reserve, are those things usually supplied by
frequent water changes and substrate changing?
<Yes... synthetic salt
mixes are formulated to have more biomineral and alkaline content than
NSW (natural seawater)>
Should I be testing for Ca to see if I NEED
to supplement?
<If your animals require it, yes>
I don't test for
that at the moment, so I have no idea what my Ca level is. I do change
about 6 gallons of water (just under 10% of the 65 gallon tank + 5 or so
gallons in the sump) once every week or two. Most of the time, it's
every week. Sometimes I slip and let it go two weeks. My Ammonia,
Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, and phosphate levels are consistently good, so I
think the water changes are adequate. I think I read on your WetWebMedia
site last week that I could change the water less frequently than
once/week and still maintain good water conditions.
<You are right.
Tienes razon. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again,
John Re: Lighting
& Supplements
Bob,
Re: supplying biomineral and alkaline
reserve
I am a bit confused about which supplements I need and which
I do not.
<An easy area of confusion for sure>
I get the
impression that I should test for Ca and probably supplement Ca. Is
something like Red Sea's Calcium + 3 (Ca, St, Mo & Io) a good product,
or do you recommend another way?
<This is an okay route to go...
folks should test for whatever they're adding... Please read through the
"supplement" FAQs posted on the Marine part of our site:
www.WetWebMedia.com for more here>
I am not sure I want to add more
equipment (e.g. calcium reactor) if I can avoid it.
<I would add no
more gear than you want, need/is necessary... Most folks can/could get
along fine with simple water changes, using/augmenting substrates
periodically... in non-boosted (overlit mainly) systems... Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your help,
John Reef tank
hello again
Robert, thanks very much for replying to my last email.
my query this
time is trace elements should I dose iodine, calcium etc and how much.
I have had my reef tank for 3years and never added anything.
<You may
not have to, or benefit from such additions... many "non-driven" (i.e.
not boosted lighting, carbon dioxide or other factor) systems do fine
with "regular" maintenance (e.g. water changes) and maintenance (e.g.
feeding)...>
my tank is 50 gallons, I have 5 tubes 2 4foot LifeGlo 1
4foot triton 1 4foot MarineGlo 1 4foot marine white. with mirrored
inside hood. 1 Fluval ext [303] 3 internals,1 with carbon, 1ext protein
skimmer, I have a selection of soft corals [13] which are all doing
great plus I have also cut off 6 small frags ? they are also doing well,
1tube anemone, 2 mushroom corals,2 lots of xenia, plus loads of
Caulerpa. fish are 2 damsels, 1 watchman gobie,1 cardinal, 1coral
beauty. my nitrate 0 ph 8.4 sg 1.22. I do have a touch of troublesome
algae but nothing to serious. I cant help thinking if I dose with
supplements it could be better. I feed the corals through a syringe with
various foods. could you please help me on this query, and any helpful
hints on my set up. cheers Paul.
<Hmm, "nothing succeeds like
success" (Zig Zigler I believe)... I wouldn't add anything to this
system if you're happy with the results thus far... If you do develop a
supplementing habit, do test and record your inputs, measures... Bob
Fenner> Mushroom question
Hi Bob,
Please clarify for
me just one more time, because both GARF and one of your associates told
me that mushrooms only need iodine supplementation and only need calcium
suppl. if you want coralline algae growth. I know I have to maintain
good water parameters (pH, Alk, temp, ammon, etc.), but I am trying to
simplify my tank in both expense and time in going with the mushrooms.
To ask it again, do I really need to supplement for calcium, mag,
stront, etc, in these non stony corals?
<Not supplement... but
understand that these are essential elements... you/they need to have
sufficient concentration in the systems water for health, growth... A
good idea to test, understand what is/may be involved in possibly
augmenting... Please do yourself and your livestock service and read
more widely. Don't ask just myself, or any other concern on the Net what
is advised. A ready source of more useful, "balanced" information are
books, chatforums (ours: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/), magazines,
clubs...>
I read your web site recommendations but the specifics were
not there. Farewell again.
<Do keep journeying for a more complete
grasping of what you seek. Bob Fenner> Reef plus
I
haven't set up with corals just yet but are hoping to sometime next week
I have a 432 liter tank and the reef plus say to add 5ml per 80L or to
desired amount needed for corals 2 twice per week will I really need to
add this much because in Australia they charge $20 a bottle and this
will run out just about every month
<Mmm... I would study the simpler
aspects of reef aquarium water chemistry and with the gained
understanding, use of test kits, determine what values you are trying to
achieve and look into less expensive means of accomplishing what you're
looking for. Please read through the links posted here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Marind4of6.htm
under Water Quality, Tests,
Testing. Bob Fenner>
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