Cost-conscious Bio cube 14 optimization... Mis-mixed, crowded tiny SW sys...    8/15/07
Hello and thank you for being such a great resource for hobbyists like myself. I have the following set up:
BioCube 14, hood removed, clamp on K-2 Viper 150w 14k metal halide.
Blue filter sponge and heater in first chamber, Chaeto is in front of top intake grill
Cut out part of divider b/w 1st and 2nd chamber to increase overflow
Live rock rubble in the 2nd chamber
Rio 800 in the third chamber
2-3" Carib Sea Fiji Pink sand bed
<Needs to be more or less... see WWM re>
Tank runs 77-78 degrees
For livestock, I have:
1 Watchman Goby
1 Tiger Pistol Shrimp
1 Sixline Wrasse
<Not enough room...>
1 Neon Goby
1 Fire Shrimp
1 White Anemone Crab (Porcelain)
2 Turbos
1 Big Nassarius
1 Crocea Clam
<Definitely not enough room>
Green Candy Canes
Orange Zoos, Green Zoos,
<Dangerous here>
Red Mushrooms, Green Mushrooms
Orange Gorgonian
Lavender Tube Anemone
<!?>
Orange Tree Sponge
Flame scallop
<Misplaced period>
Montipora
Yellow Porites
Pulsing Xenia
Soft Leather Tree Coral
Green Favia Brain
Green Ricordea
I do 20-30% water changes at least weekly, top off water daily, dose calcium and carbonate daily.
I use filter floss and change every few days, and alternate using carbon, phosphate sponge, and soon I'll also use ChemiPure and Purigen.
I just added some ChemiClean Red Slime Remover
<A very poor idea... see WWM re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgcidefaqs.htm>
for the first time to help some struggling zoos. I'll change the water in 48 hours.
Algae is light, but ever-present. Nitrates are low
I use Oceanic Sea Salt
<Not a fan of this brand...>
and RO water reading 23 TDS ppm
Given this set up, I have a few questions:
1) Feeding, Trace Elements, and Water Changes--I've only added trace elements once, 4 days ago, but after reading a few of your articles I'm worried about toxic buildup. Are regular water changes really enough for all the unique needs of the specimens I have?
<Should be, yes>
I feed the fish a rotation of Marine Cuisine, Mysis, Daphnia, Brine Shrimp, and diced bits of cocktail shrimp; bigger feedings are every other day, with lighter snacks in between. I also dose 1/4 tsp of Kent Phytoplankton and Kent Zooplankton every 4 days, along with 20-25 drops of Coral Vert (only every couple weeks). Trace elements from the Oceanic Sea Salt, along with this feeding schedule is probably enough to keep the xenia, clam, sponge, and scallop happy filtering the water, but do I need to supplement iodine for the xenia and crustaceans?
<Yes... I would add during water changes>
How about strontium and molybdenum?
<Not likely... enough should be supplied through the water...>
How about Essential Elements? Magnesium?
<Need to test for to assess>
Do I need to feed small amounts more frequently? What is the ideal feeding schedule (I work from home)
<Need to read re the individual needs of the life you list... posted/archived on WWM>
2) Someone told me that Purple Up would take care of most of my micronutrient needs that I don't already get from salt or feeding. Is this true?
<No>
3) Should I get a protein skimmer?
<Yes, I would... but... see below>
Is there one you recommend that's a good value and not overkill?
<Posted>
If I get a small protein skimmer, what do I need to do differently re: dosing, supplements?
<posted...>
4) Is a UV sterilizer overkill?
<ditto>
5)Calcium and Carbonate--do these need to be shaken to suspend sediments that settle out of solution or can I just draw from the clear liquid at the top of the container? Can I mix one or both of these into my auto top off water?
6)Periodicity--I like running my lights, how long of a daylight schedule is too long? How much is pushing it? Do Equatorial corals normally get about 16 hours of light?
7) Is my lettuce Nudi getting all he needs from the light?
8) Are my flame scallop, clam, and orange tree sponge getting all they need? (New Additions)
9) Is it ok/good to siphon/agitate the sand bed? Which problem is worse, buildup of waste in the sand, or subjecting everything to temporary spikes in water pollution/toxicity?
Any help finding these answers would be greatly appreciated. You guys ar great, thanks!
<Have just skipped down... You should learn to/use the search tool and indices on WWM... and quickly. The mis-mix of livestock you have is very tenuous... a crash is tentative... What you really need other than an education cart before the horse... is a much larger system... And soon. Read for now... start saving for the larger world, and keep your eyes, senses trained on this tiny over-crowded mess. Bob Fenner>

It's Overrun!!! Nano maint.    8/12/07
Hey Guys, I need some help... I have a 16 gal nano that I'm having some trouble with. It started being overtaken with green algae about a month or so back. I did some reading and discovered that pretty consistent water changes, smaller amounts of feeding, and literal removal would be the way to go.
<One approach...>
I've tried doing all of this and it's still getting worse. Literally everything is being overrun, the back wall has about 3/4 of an inch of it, and it's covering everything else. The water itself is starting to look pretty murky with a green layer starting to develop on top. Also, I can't find one of my (very social) shrimp, and am wondering if this problem has gotten deadly.. PLEASE HELP!!! Jon
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/smmarsysmaintfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Clean Up Crew for Surface of sand  8/3/07
Hello there guys! Hope this message finds you well. I have been able to alleviate my blue silicate problem with the use of PhosGuard in my AP12 Gallon, with the cl-150 chiller and Blueline 20-hd pump ( I am sure you remember me ) heh.
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o46/mynd/AquaPod/waterworking.1.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o46/mynd/AquaPod/silicatesday13.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o46/mynd/AquaPod/diatom.full.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o46/mynd/AquaPod/diatom.partial.jpg
Here's the dillio. I had to put in a CUC which consisted of 3 Astrea snails
and 1 Nassarius snail to get rid of the diatom bloom.
<... natural succession>
I think this is ok based on the fact there is about 10 gallons of actual water in the tank and keep in mind the tank is 15 days old today. I have read through this area of your site.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marscavfaqs.htm
However, I could not find anything that stated what to do to clean up the sand of the little diatom coverage that browns the sand along with the snail poop between water changes.
<Mmm, for such a new small tank... your stirring and lightly vacuuming is about it>
Boy those guys can really clean the rock, but they certainly leave it behind. Is there any type of ( and be specific please ) fish or critter that I can put in the tank and not have to regularly feed ( and even if I do ) that will clean the surface of the sand, but not kill everything in it?
<Mmmm... not really any I'd strongly advise here.>
I have about 2" of aragonite sand on the bottom and it is far from being alive at this time. What is the best advice you can give me for a tank this size with that much sand in the picture above? Should I just keep siphoning the poop and diatom remnants out every 10 days when I do my water change?
<Yes. This is what I would do>
I would really prefer something to clean up the poop on the sand surface and keep it clean. Suggestions? Advice? Let me know.
I appreciate your help as always and thank you kindly for your help
Kind regards,
Stephen
<You're doing fine Stephen. Patience and continued reading here. http://wetwebmedia.com/substclng2.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>

PH<ALK<CAL – 06/28/07
OK, so I am writing again because, well frankly you guys give the best advice!!
<Hello again Matt!>
I am now having issues with my parameters according to what I am reading and observing in my tank. I have what I thought was a well established 24G NANO (please don't frown!). However, my corals are just not doing well, losing some critters and coralline dying. SO, I went to my LFS, where I purchase all of my tank critters, LR, etc...they directed me to purchase Strontium, and the B-Ionic calcium buffer component (one is ALK one is Calcium). I was adding Purple up since day one to supplement the calcium, they said it was only an enhancer, not 100% calcium. Not problem...I also bought and ALK tester...The guy said "your reef tank should be right around 3.5 mEq/L. It was exactly that the first few days, so I did not add the B-Ionic supplement as it is there to bring the ALK up, correct?
<YES!!! Do NOT dose Alk supplement unless Alk test drops below 3.0meq/l. Calcium is fine at 400ppm. PH is not as big of a concern and will naturally fluctuate, Just avoid extremes. If alk is in normal range and calcium is 400ppm then pH will be fine.>
However, now today(June27th) my ALK has gone up to 4.5mEq/L. What is supposed to be?? I thought if the PH and calcium are good, the ALK will follow.
<Do not buffer pH directly, let the calcium carbonates in the system do it for you.>
I have been adding the calcium and it is at 400ppm, I was told around 450ppm is good (which is where it normally is). I add the Strontium once a week per the bottle, and iodine everyday(2 drops). Water changes with Nutri -Sea Water, no mixing needed and it is what I started the tank off with, but switched a few months ago. I have gone back to it. PH is at 8.2, Phosphates at 0, nitrates 0, Temp 77.5...Any advice is always appreciate as usual!
<Keep up on the water changes and make sure that tests are run on the source water for make up (evap) so that you are not adding unwanted nutrients to the system. Let the tank adjust back to the Nutri-system brand salt. Order a quality phosphate test kit so that you are sure of the readings. Let's give the Nutri-system 30 days to improve things and remember to change the water(10gallons) once a week for that time period. Keep us informed of progress!>
Thanks,
Matt
<Rich aka MR. Firemouth>

Temp., nano, SW   6/25/07
Thanks for the quick reply!
<your welcome>
I have two more questions, please...
My temperature ranges from 74.8 - 75.3. I the new nano chiller (with a compressor, built for nanos!) so it keeps it at a constant even on the hottest days. Is that too low for a reef tank?
<I prefer temps closer to 78F when a chiller is used. Your temps are a little lower than I would normally run a reef tank. Temps above 82F start to stress corals and cause bleaching, etc.>
The other question: About 3 months ago my first chiller malfunctioned and stayed on the entire night (about 6 hours) before I realized it had lowered the temperature of my tank to 53.2 degrees. YES, I know...I was devastated to say the least. I thought everything was lost. The fish were floating on their side, the corals looked horrible, and the inverts were frozen in place (so it looked). I warmed it up very slowly with a heater I had-it took nearly 5 hours to get it back into the 60's. Everything recovered, the fish swimming. I did not lose a thing. Could this traumatic event has lasting effects on the corals?
<You did the right thing by bringing up the temp slowly and letting the tank recover naturally! Once an episode of stress has been eliminated and the root cause removed in this case a new chiller) the corals will rebound and continue to flourish if the right tank conditions for a reef tank exist. There should be no long term issues from the cold exposure for any of the survivors. Just check your water parameters daily/weekly and maintain proper water chemistry and temps and everything will be fine.>
<thanks Rich aka Mr. Firemouth>
Thanks again for being there!

New 30-Gallon Setup.. (Algae Succession, Copper Contamination...Patience) – 06/21/07
Hello Everyone,
<<Hiya Tammy!>>
Before beginning my email, I read many posts concerning live rock or sand turning orange/brown.
<<Okay>>
I am having this problem, also with my live rock, the live sand still appears clean.
<<Is this a new system? The appearance of diatoms is part of the natural algae succession of a new/cycling system>>
After reading one specific post concerning 1g possibly distilled water purchased as source water, I immediately checked my gallon containers and AH-HA, they read "distilled OR reverse osmosis". Unfortunately, I thought I was safe by purchasing these containers. Approximately, 12 gallons of my tank contain this water source and now I am concerned with the potential copper presence.
<<Easily tested for...though I doubt you have much to be concerned about here>>
However, I also read several posts about diatoms and the use of protein skimmers to eradicate the problem.
<<And oh so many more benefits as well>>
The rest of my water was purchased evenly from my local pet store and supermarket via their dispenser clearly indicating the presence of the RO process.
<<Perhaps you should look to investing in a basic unit yourself...would surely be cheaper in the long-term>>
My tank is 24x24x12, and contains 40 lbs live sand Carib-Sea Pink, run since June 8 with a CPR Bak Pak with blue BioBale removed, and the skimmer portion running wide open since then.
<<Ah, so this is a “new/cycling” system...
About 5 days ago I added 15 lbs of live rock and a Rena Filstar XP1 filter. The first three days the rock seemed fine, but the last two days this orange presence has come on quite strong.
<<This is natural and no reason for concern...please read here and among the blue links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algfriendfaqs.htm >>
One of your articles mentioned "coffee-ground" type accumulation in the protein skimmer. I am concerned that I am NOT seeing this kind of accumulation and only getting 1/4-1/2" inch of pretty clean water in the skimmer cup daily, and the skimmer cup is resting on the intake tube (sitting as far down in the intake portion as allowed by design) It is powered by the Maxi-Jet 1200 pump it was supplied with. The daily
accumulation does not smell as bad as I have heard/read that is should.
<<This may be just fine. If the rock you purchased was already cured/partially cured the skimmate you describe may be all that there is for the skimmer to pull out. Even so, if you are interested in obtaining a “better” hang-on style skimmer have a look at the AquaC Remora>>
I am also using a Power Sweep power head positioned at the bottom center of tank forcing water back up toward the top center of the tank, creating a circular current in the tank with a flow rate at 160, Rena XP1 flow rate 250, Maxi Jet 1200 wide open at 295 gph. The water test results are pH 7.9, Ammo 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate under 5.0 (using API Saltwater test kit with color bar charts), salinity 28-29, SG 1.021 -1.022, and temp 79.3.
<<I would prefer to see your salinity/SG at natural saltwater levels (35ppt or SG= 1.025/.026)
I am using a Current compact fluorescent dual actinic dual daylight w/ two white moonlights on approx. 8-12 hrs/day, total watts 65. Presently, live sand and live rock only in the tank. This past weekend I was considering adding the typical odd amount of Chromis and/or damsels, OR a cleaner crew of a shrimp, several snails, etc., but decided to be patient and wait.
<<Whew!...a close one... This tank is much too “new” in my opinion for such considerations. Many beginning hobbyists don’t have the patience/see the value in “waiting.” Do allow the tank to complete its cycle and just “run” for a while to allow bacterial and other micro-organisms to establish and grow, and to allow the tank to find its “balance”...will make things better/easier and save you some grief down the road>>
In the event this is a copper problem and not diatoms, what would you all suggest?
<<I doubt from what you have stated that you have a copper “problem”...but do a water test and see for your own peace of mind>>
I'm really hoping it is a diatom problem.
<<The algae succession, as stated. “Patience” is your best course of action right now. Use the time to read/study/research...read through our site re marine tank setup/cycling ...and get a couple good reference books on the subject to study as well. Also spend this time deciding on and “researching” the animals you think you will want to keep. Oh yeah...and don’t fret so much about the live rock getting “dirty” [grin]...>>
Thank you so much for your time, I love your website.
<<Quite welcome...and we’re glad you like it!>>
TAH
<<Regards, EricR>>

Turning Red Over Brown Algae! (Fighting Nuisance Algae) – 06/15/07
Hi
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I am having a fight with brown algae.
<Not fun...>
But my rocks are covered with these white round hairy circles of something live. Are they causing my tank a problem?
<Unfortunately, without seeing what these circles are, I could only guess...>
I am having the fight of my life with brown algae. I have a 24 gal nano tank. 1 Clownfish, 1 Blue Fiji. 1 Pajama Cardinal fish. I have had these fish and the tank for a year. Everybody is healthy and happy but me. The tank is awful. I am now getting some red and green blue algae( pretty). My water is OK.
<Hmm...is it really? Algae thrive on nutrients, and nutrients come from a few sources, namely foods, metabolic waste products, and source water. Could be that your source water has phosphates, nitrate, or other compounds that are acting like "rocket fuel" for algae growth.>
I change the water every 2 weeks 2 gals. As time goes on this is getting worse. I feed the fish 1 time a day they eat all of it. My water is 80 degrees most of the time. I purchase water. Help! Pat Zahner
Thanks for your help.
<Well, Pat- without knowing how your water parameters check out, I'll have to make some general assumptions based on "the usual suspects" for algae problems. These are typically caused by insufficient/ineffective nutrient export mechanisms. As mentioned previously, check your source water...I'm curious if it is as pure as you might think. Reverse Osmosis/Deionized water is your best bet. Even then, the membranes must be changed regularly. I wonder if the place you get your water from is on top of the maintenance of their RO unit. Your water change schedule is not bad, but I'd go for a 10% water change every week for greater nutrient export in a small system such as yours. Do you run a protein skimmer? If you do (and you should), do make sure that you are getting regular skimmate production. A skimmer in a system with as serious an algae problem as you seem to be having should be able to produce lots of skimmate on a regular basis. Do you employ some form of chemical filtration, such as activated carbon or PolyFilter? These media are a great assist at removing some of the compounds that contribute to your algae problem. Ask yourself when the algae situation arose. Were there changes in husbandry habits, equipment, etc. just prior to the beginning of the bloom? Do some detective work. Does this aquarium have adequate water movement? This is an important, yet often overlooked assist in limiting nuisance algae. These are just a few possibilities...Do more research under "algae" and "nutrient export" here on WWM for more. If you address these issues, continue to employ good husbandry, and don't panic, I'm sure that your algae bloom will be a thing of the past. Best of luck to you in your fight...You can do it! Regards, Scott F.>

How Do I Raise The pH In A Very (3g) Small Reef Tank?...Water Changes! - 05/26/07
Hello,
<<Hi Joe>>
Let me start with saying you guys are great!
<<We do try...thanks!>>
I have a 3-gallon reef tank.
<<Mmm, tiny...>>
I bought a Pulsing Xenia and placed in my tank only to find it oh-boy so happy.
<<Cool!>>
So I researched this site and found out about pH plays a major part for Xenia.
<<Not just for Xenia mate...>>
So after testing I found my pH at 6.6.
<<Hmm...am doubtful...your tank would not survive this pH level.  I very much suggest you validate the efficacy of your test kit>>
I know way way way to low.
<<Indeed...but not likely an accurate reading>>
How can I raise this to 8.3 without using a supplement even if it can be done with no supplement?
<<On such a small system as yours, maintaining "balance" is most easily and effectively done with simple "water changes."  Just make sure to prepare/age the saltwater correctly>>
If not what supplement would you advise?
<<None, for this size tank>>
I dose with Kent alk buffer so my dKH is bout 10 or 11.
<<No need to use this...and doing so will probably cause more problems than help.  If your pH reading does by chance turn out to be accurate, then I would look to the use/overuse of this product in this small tank as the culprit>>
Also I use Red Sea salt mix.
<<Better/more stable brands; in my opinion, to be had (IO, Tropic Marin, Seachem)>>
Is it a must to aerate and if I can't would there be negatives to this?
<<Adequate water movement is all you need/is essential to the system>>
Thanks, Joe
<<First thing to do here Joe...validate that pH reading.  Regards, EricR>>

Mineral Supplement Use/Misuse On Small Systems...And a Mantis Shrimp Too! - 05/11/07
First I would like to thank you for keeping all of this great information out here and available.
<<Quite welcome...  Tis a collective effort>>
I am new to the hobby, as I am sure you will be able to tell, so I have been a bit shy about asking questions for fear of asking something really stupid.
<<No worries mate...we were all beginners at one time>>
But I need some expert input, so here goes.  I have kept a 24 gal. AquaPod system for about 9 months.  Here are the stats:  ammonia and nitrates stay at near 0, calcium stays at around 460 ppm,
<<A bit high...400ppm is a safer level>>
KH/alkalinity fluctuates between 9 and 11 dKH,
<<Mmm yes, definitely need to let the calcium level drop.  Read here and among the links in blue at the top of the page (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm) >>
pH (my biggest headache) fluctuates between <8.0 and 8.3.
<<I see>>
Tank inhabitants; two Ocellaris Clowns, one Green Chromis, one Firefish, Blue Leg Hermits, and various snails.  I also have one struggling stalk of Xenia, a less than thriving colony of Yellow Polyps, 5 Ricordea and some Blue Mushrooms.  I started the tank with 10-12 lbs. of live rock and live sand (one bag, weight unknown).  Tank maint: 10% water change weekly, filter media rinse in old tank water monthly, 4 drops of Iodine daily, Calcium every other day, Essential Elements and Strontium & Molybdenum weekly.  
<<If not already, you need to be testing/verifying a definite need for these additives.  Considering your livestock, the 10% weekly water changes should be providing all the earth/bio-mineral elements your tank requires.  Possible overuse here may well be what is causing your pH fluctuations>>
I have been using Kent marine products, adding a capful of liquid Pro-buffer dKH every other day.
<<And again...not needed/likely problematic on this system>>
If the pH rises to 8.2-8.3 I try to reduce to once every 3 days, and it drops to 8.0 or less again.  Once it drops it takes daily doses, sometimes twice daily, to get the levels up before the Xenia die.  My LFS has advised to add a full dose (1 capful based on my tank size) to new water before adding, which I do, using Red Sea salt, which didn’t help, and most recently switching to Seachem products.
<<Yay!  A much better product choice in my opinion>>
They advise that I should only have to add dKH twice a week at most.
<<Not even then...>>
Can you offer any additional advice as to what I might be doing wrong/not doing at all that would require me to add buffer so frequently?
<<I can...see below>>
Or is it normal in this size tank to have to dose so often?
<<It is not "normal"...and is often problematic as mentioned.   As you will discover reading from the links I have directed you to, “high” calcium and alkaline levels tend to be mutually exclusive (the “marble analogy” will make this clearer).  The supplement additions you are making to keep both at the upper end of the spectrum are driving one or the other down; depending on what is being added, which causes a dangerous seesaw effect. And at worst, will cause a precipitous event where both calcium and alkaline buffers fall out of solution in what looks like a snowstorm raging in the tank.  My recommendation is to stop these supplement additions...perform several large water changes (as needed) to bring your calcium and alkalinity back in balance...and rely on a larger water change done less frequently (25% every two to three weeks) with water that has been allowed to mature/complete its chemical processes and see if this doesn’t help to bring some stability to your system.  Do browse our FAQs on mixing artificial seawater for info and tips on buffering/maturation/storage/et al>>
My other question is regarding a little guy that I found in the tank about 6 weeks or so ago.  When I first saw this critter I thought it was some kind of worm.  It looked like a small green caterpillar, and would dart out from the rocks to grab Mysis shrimp that the fish had missed.
<<Cool!>>
I searched everywhere to find out what it was, and found nothing.  Last night I got a better look at his head and tail, and I am nearly sure it is a small mantis shrimp.
<<A good possibility...and very neat creatures too>>
On one of your boards, among all the horror stories of fish death and tank destruction, I saw in a response from Anthony that there is a small green mantis that remains <2 inches and is relatively harmless.
<<Ah yes...and even some of the larger species can be “relatively” harmless if kept fed and the hobbyist is careful with selection of tankmates.  But regardless of size, if you really want to observe and enjoy this critter then consider a specimen tank just for the mantis>>
The one in my tank is a greenish color, and has been about the same size (app. 1 inch) for at least 6 weeks or so.  Can you tell me how fast these creatures usually grow?
<<Hmm, not really...but would think 6 “months” to be a better gauge of size potential>>
I am hoping he has reached maximum size, and can be left in the tank with current inhabitants.
<<Time will tell>>
Thanks for any info or advice!
Debbie Weeks
<<Is a pleasure to share.  Eric Russell>>

Re: Supplement Use/Misuse On Small Systems...And a Mantis Shrimp Too! - 05/12/07
Thanks so much for the great response.
<<Quite welcome>>
I am now in information overload after reading all of the referenced materials, and feeling a bit overwhelmed again.
<<Just take your time, keep reading, and it will begin to make sense>>
Just when I think I am getting it, I find there is so much more to learn!
<<Ah yes...I am still learning after more than three decades in the hobby>>
I have been improperly mixing and storing my water, so good thing you pointed me in that direction.
<<Indeed, and is a common issue.  Many aquarists think adding the salt to water and stirring until they think it is dissolved makes it imminently ready for use in their displays, when in actuality freshly mixed synthetic seawater is chemically "aggressive" for days after the salt has been mixed>>
I had been purchasing pre-mixed, but thought I would save some $$ mixing myself.
<<Yes, it is not difficult to do and gives "you" control over the mix>>
Now I see that I need to spend a bit on a container, and aeration for the stored water.
<<Yep!>>
My poor fish, it's a wonder they survive at all!  Should I also have been aerating the premixed from the LFS, particularly if I stored the water for a week or two prior to use?
<<Mmm, yes...if only to increase oxygen content>>
I do have one more point of confusion (well, just one more that I will bother you with).
<<No bother my friend>>
All of the articles that I read regarding water changes recommend higher frequency/lower % change as the way to go.
<<Many do, yes...but there are differing opinions>>
I had even considered changing to twice weekly 5% changes.  Can I ask the reasoning behind a 25% change every 2-3 weeks (which, btw, is in line with LFS advice when I first set up the tank)?
<<Certainly (and I would like to clarify the following applies to "routine" maintenance and not to those situations where large frequent water changes are needed to quickly ameliorate critical/toxic situations)...  Keep in mind the common facets of this hobby; regardless of which aspect is being discussed, are consistency and stability.  The creatures we strive to keep are remarkably adaptable (lucky for us, eh?) and can become accustomed to differing conditions to a degree if the changes are made "slowly."  When we do a water change, we cause a "sudden" shift in the water chemistry of the system.  Even though this shift may be for the better, the animals in our care still must "endure" the change, and even make biological allowances thus.  This activity causes stress...it is my opinion that performing the water changes a bit less frequently, obviously, reduces the occurrences of this "stress" to the system.  You can argue the decrease in frequency causes a higher buildup of toxic compounds/loss of essential elements/etc between exchanges...but unless the system is grossly over stocked, lacking adequate filtration, and/or ill-maintained, I think this to have negligible impact and to be of lesser importance.  
Thanks again!
Debbie
<<Happy to share.  Eric Russell>>

Small System with Small but Still Difficult to Keep Fishes...How’s One to Keep Them Well Fed? – 05/10/07
I have been reading over the FAQ's and there are many differing opinions.
<<Yes indeedy>>
I have read and read and incorporated a lot of your ideas and advice into my tank.  I just have a couple of questions for my intended purposes.
<<Ok>>
I have a 30G tank with a 25G sump and an additional 5G hang on the sump refugium.  My sump has a refugium fed directly with tank water; it contains no substrate and about 10 lbs of live rock and a clump of Chaetomorpha.  My second refugium has about 1-inch of gravel to stabilize about 5lbs of live rock and another clump of Chaetomorpha; it pulls water directly from the sump refugium and overflows back into the same.
<<Ok...with ya so far...>>
I wanted to create a natural food source for my Scooter blenny (eats mysis soaked in Selcon) and some nitrate export as well.  The refugiums are on a reverse light cycle from the tank to keep the oxygen up and the pH drops to a minimum.  The tank has a 1" aragonite sugar sized sand bed and total about 35lbs of live rock in the tank.  The problem is I just inherited a Leopard wrasse (did not want to let it die in another persons nano cube) that I have trained in QT to eat the Mysis as well.
<<Very good...I also suggest you try Selcon soaked New Life Spectrum pellets...my Leopards love it, and it will go far to ensuring dietary needs are met>>
I know it will compete with the blenny for pods so I just ordered a bottle of Tigger pods to boost my refugiums.  My question is what substrate if any would be best for my refugiums?
<<My preference is sugar-size aragonite sand...at least 4-inches deep>>
A different choice of macroalgae?
<<Nope...Chaetomorpha is my current fave>>
Is this enough or did I just doom the blenny?
<<Both fish are extremely problematic in small systems such as yours.  The fact you have them feeding on Mysis soaked in Selcon is a big plus in your favor, but I don’t think this alone will sustain them for the long term. Your refugiums will be of some benefit but whether even these are enough only time will tell...do give the Spectrum pelleted foods a try>>
Both fish are fat but some people have told me to use a 6" sand bed in the sump and Miracle Mud in the other refugium.
<<This is another option...but sand in both is fine>>
Sorry about the long involved letter but you now know what I need from my refugiums and what would be a better set up for those needs.
<<No worries re the length of your query...the more relevant info I have the better I can help>>
I appreciate all the advice and would not have been able to plumb this system without your website plus it’s a very nice way to make the time fly at work.
<<Hee-hee!  Indeed it is...and thanks for the kind words>>
Thanks for your help in advance,
Paul
<<Happy to assist, EricR>>

Heating/ cooling and too much too soon? 4/19/07
<Greetings, Hays.>
I have a 26 gallon bow front tank. It has been set up for about 3 months.
<"Set up" as in cycled, or filled with water? I hope you mean cycled.>
I have lost several fish lately and currently have only a prawn goby, sixline wrasse, cleaner shrimp and emerald crab.
<For starters, several fish more than this would be too many. Test figures are very helpful here, and if you don't own a kit, you need one.>
Coral include, polyp Zoë, pulsating xenia, feathery leather toadstool, flowerpot coral, double ricord. mushroom and tube worm.
<Is this a first attempt at reef-keeping? I am surprised at the species of coral you have together here for such a young system. Goniopora is a species regarded by the majority to be an "advanced" reef-keeper species.>
My lights are 130-watt power compact,
<Just one?>
heater is a 100w Rena Cal (best one I could find locally) with temps staying between 76-80.
<Too much fluctuation, here.>
I live in Mississippi with ridiculously hot summer days approaching. I am wondering if I need to get a chiller and/or remove my heater?  
<Removing the heater may seem well and good at first, but for stability, you should have both and set them so that neither is working against the other.>
Is it a good idea to use both in order to keep the temp in a certain range?
<Oh, yes. See above.>
I turn my air conditioner off during the day to save on electricity, but it is cool at night.
<Temperature swings of two or more degrees in a day are also stressful to fish and inverts. Imagine the volume of the ocean and the relative temperature stability of that huge mass of water.>
I am also curious of how many hours you recommend the lights be on.
<See below.>
I have had a problem with brown algae on the glass, is that more from the fish dying or too much light?
<Hmm. Interesting point. Many algae problems are attributed to chemical instability or imbalance in the system, and this condition is very stressful to animals. Usually the brown film you mention is considered by most to by a mild irritant, but only visually. Most of the time it is part of general maintenance of the system, and can even phase out as other more desirable forms of competition spring up. As for the lights, I would think that everything in this system *should* be fine with the light levels you currently use (Goniopora is often found/collected in less than clear waters, in medium light. I would recommend 8-11 hours of operation, depending on factors such as heat-contribution, power consumption, and even algae control (But the last the least). Ease into this if it is different from your regular schedule.>
Thanks for the help.
Hays
<Welcome, and good luck!
-GrahamT>

More Nano Aquarium Problems, Algae’s   4/11/07 Hi Gang :) <Hello Lisa.> I have a few questions, I'd really appreciate the assist. <No problem.> First - I set up a 24 gallon JBJ Nanocube (with the inevitable self-heating non-cooling canopy).   <Quaint and neat little tanks…though not always the most practical.> Initially I was going to populate with sea horses but since I can't keep the temperature down, that plan has gone and it's now just a small reef tank.   <It’s probably for the best, seahorses require very particular and very stable environments. Nanos are notoriously unstable. I would only recommend the combination to a very dedicated, experienced aquarist…and even then it wouldn’t be easy by any means.> I've got a clam, <I see, it’s a T. Crocea. Arguably the most demanding of Tridacnids too. A nano is not typically stable enough to house these and the stock lighting on this aquarium leaves something to be desired.> some cleaning crew, a sun coral (that I moved from my big tank) and the sun coral in the top center.  The smaller sun coral seems to do really well and always opens up at feeding time.  The larger (newer) sun hasn't opened ever.  It seems to be receding.  I'm feeding phytoplankton, DT's and Cyclop-Eeze.  Everything else seems to be thriving.  Is it just a goner? <Well first, since they are non-photosynthetic (azooxanthellate) you probably don’t want them at the top center in direct lighting.  They are rather high maintenance to say the least, I would keep offering food daily, preferably around the same time…maybe just after the lights go out, but the larger colony appears that it may be past the threshold of no return.> Second - since adding light to my big tank (90 gallon bowfront) stuff's been growing.  Not necessarily stuff I want.  Here is a picture of some grape Caulerpa that I was removing from my refugium as it was mixed with the Chaetomorpha (sp) < Chaetomorpha.> and I understand that can be a toxic combination.   <Well one algae will eventually outcompete the other.> As you can see, the grape Caulerpa is doing really well.  I didn't plant it.  I have no idea where it came from. It's on a combo rock I've had for a year.   <Well the spores were on the rock, or somewhere else in the aquarium and took root.> This is about 2 weeks old (the grape stuff).  I assume it will continue to grow unfettered forcing everything from the rock and ultimately try to take over the tank. <Not if it is kept in check by your meticulous pruning.  But I don’t recommend growing the Chaeto or any kind of algae in the display only in a dedicated refugia type vessel.> The efforts to grow the algae Nothing wants to eat it.  What do I do?  Is it bad? <It can be just a useful, effective as a means of nutrient export but, as I said above, it must be pruned on a regular basis.  I recommend manual pruning of the Caulerpa, of all the algae’s in this tank, do not grow them sided by side with cnidaria life.  See the below link for methods of control.> Third - in the same 90 gal, there is these clumps of green algae growing.  I have a giant sea hare in the tank that seems to like it - on occasion.  I'm assuming this will also grow unabated and take over.  Are these bad?  How do you get rid of them? <See below for algae control, my guess is that you have an overabundance of nutrients in the water. What is your source water? DO you test the water, what are the results? How often do you do water changes? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm Read this as well; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .> Thanks for the help, <Anytime.> Lisa <Adam J.>

Re: More Nano Aquaria Problems  - 04/12/2007 Hi Gant - Thanks Adam :) <No prob.> Water is tested weekly.  I use a Pinpoint Ph Monitor.  Nitrates are 0, Nitrites are 0, Phosphates are 0 (use a phosphate reactor) and SG is 1.024.  Replacement water is RO. <Sounds good.> This is the 90 gallon.  I have a 560 watt Orbit light, a huge bubble tip anemone, some misc polyps and other corals and a few fish. <Cool.> The nano is also at 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates, 0 phosphate.  Should I move the other sun coral into the bigger tank at a lower level to avoid the light? <Should be somewhere shaded...yes.> The crocea shouldn't be in a nano? <Mmm.. typically no.> (that's what I get for listening to the LFS guy who has a bunch in his display nano). <Well they are a business.> I did water changes on the big tank every 2 weeks while trying to get a Cyanobacteria issue under control.  In general I don't do them that often as I have the sump/refugium down below which seems to keep the water pretty good. <A frequent water change regime never hurt though.> I add Iodide and calcium supplements twice weekly.  What will do best in a nano (given that I obviously have no clue). <The article I sent you a link of (I penned it) has many suggestions and many "do nots" as well.> SG is measured with a refractometer. Calcium in the nano is high, around 500, Calcium in the big tank is at 400. Thanks for the help. <Anytime.> Lisa <Adam J.>