Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube – 05/01/09
Hi Eric,
<<Hi Beth>>
Just got back in town the other day and Holy Sick Aquarium Batman!!
<<Uh-oh!>>
I really do have to join a local aquarium club for some support when I have to leave town.
<<Doing so…and gaining the “local” support and advice of others sharing your passion can be a real boon>>
Believe it or not, the Sea Pen is the only thing that has done well in my absence. The tank has a horrible red algae bloom, my Xenia was torn in half, my hermit crab decided that he liked the shell that the Xenia was partially attached to and made it his new home. The Xenia does not look like it's going to make it. My frogspawn, candy coral, Ricordea and doughnut coral all look deflated and stressed. I lost one of my feather dusters and all of my mushroom anemones.
<<Does sound like things have taken a serious downturn>>
The feather dusters are connected together and I haven't seen one of them emerge from his tube. Another one decided that he didn't like his tube and is now sharing a tube with another one. Do I just leave the empty tubes alone?
<<I would… Trying to remove it will likely just cause more undue stress…possible physical harm>>
The protein skimmer and the well it sits in smelled horrible. I removed the skimmer and thoroughly cleaned it with hot water and toothbrush. I also siphoned the debris at the bottom of the well that contains the protein skimmer.
<<A good move>>
I did a 25% water change the first day and I siphoned out all of the red algae that I could reach.
<<Another good strategy…and the siphoning will probably need to be repeated periodically>>
I added Kent Marine Nano Reef supplements A and B.
<<I would not add “anything” until you get the tank back in “balance”… And this will best be done through frequent partial water changes…say 25% twice a week for two weeks…and then reevaluate at that time>>
I also turned on my extra powerhead to boost circulation and prevent the red algae from coming back.
<<It will come back for now…but the extra circulation is another good move>>
I normally do not run the extra powerhead because I only have a 14g BioCube and my frogspawn and doughnut do not seem to like the extra current.
<<I see… Keeping a noxious mix of corals is often more complicated in such small volumes…but does make water changes easy, and is the single best way to keep up with water quality>>
I tested the parameters of water and readings are good except for nitrates. So I performed a 10% water change on the second day. Nitrate came down from 50ppm to 35ppm.
<<This is likely a large part of your issues here. I would strive to get this reading below 5ppm (you should step up the water changes)>>
The corals have dramatically improved in appearance.
<<And should continue to do so…just keep bringing down that Nitrate reading>>
However the doughnuts mouth is wide open and my pipe coral is not coming out.
<<May be a delayed recovery…or maybe these have been more seriously damaged>>
My Firefish is acting kind of weird, he is normally very shy, but as I type, he is swimming in place at the center of the tank. Kind of like riding the current. I think those are all the problems that I have encountered so far. I look forward to any helpful suggestions.
Thanks again,
Beth
<<Water changes, water changes, water changes… Be chatting… EricR>>

Re: Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube – 05/01/09
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Beth>>
So sorry to bother you again.
<<No bother my friend>>
I had to ask another question about my doughnut coral.
<<Okay>>
He seemed to be doing alright. He was my newest addition to the tank, about 3 weeks ago, and never seemed to be fully expanded or symmetrical. Today he was symmetrical as well as expanded. His mouth finally closed somewhat but a few minutes ago he let go of his footing.
<<Lost footing? As in became “detached” from its skeleton? Not good…>>
I currently have placed him in the sand with a shell weighing him down so he does not float behind the rocks. Doughnut know what to do.
Thanks
Beth
<<In my experience, large polyped corals such as this never recover/reattach to the skeleton…is but a matter of time I’m afraid. EricR>>

R2: Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube – 05/01/09
Eric,
<<Beth>>
Sorry, should revise previous email. The doughnut has separated from its skeleton.
<<Ah yes…did surmise such, but thank you for clarifying. EricR>>

R4: Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube – 05/03/09
Good Morning Eric,
<<Hello Beth>>
Thanks for confirmation on actions taken in response to Operation Death Tank.
<<Quite welcome>>
I will hold off on additional supplements until the tank is healthy again.
<<Excellent…is best>>
A question about more aggressive action.
<<Okay>>
I have another salt water tank that was set up at the same time as my BioCube. I only stock live rock in this aquarium with no base substrate. Some people collect spoons or marbles, I collect live rock. Okay..... I collect spoons, marbles and live rock.
<<Ha!>>
Should I transfer corals over to my live rock tank with the exception of my chili, Featherduster and sea pen in order to clean the wells of my BioCube?
<<Might not hurt to do so with the stonies>>
I know that the wells are very slimy from the dead mushrooms and a good cleaning could possibly improve my nitrate levels more quickly than water changes alone.
<<Yes…no doubt>>
Also, until the nitrate level has been reduced, what volume of water do you recommend for water changes and how often should it be done.
<<A couple 50% changes a day apart should show some significant improvement…done in conjunction with the “cleanings” you mention>>
Could you describe to me how the doughnut forms his skeleton?
<<I’m guessing by “doughnut” you have Cynarina lacrymalis… This coral forms/grows its skeleton as any other hard or “stony” coral does…through the extraction of bio-minerals from the surrounding water. If you’re interested in the science of it, you may find more info with a good search of the web…or you can visit a local college library>>
and the relationship between the skeleton and coral?
<<Mmm, I would describe this as “necessary for life”>>
How does the skeleton keep him alive?
<<By providing an anchor, support, and protection for the polyp…and possibly an avenue for nutrient distribution>>
Is it like the relationship between fetus and mother?
<<More like flower petal and receptacle (the attachment point of the petal), I think>>
An umbilical cord where there is a transfer of nutrients?
<<Not to the same extent…if at all>>
Or does the skeleton act only as a support for the doughnut?
<<Not so simplistic…but does provide “support”>>
If it acts as a support only and nutrients will not be lost due to the separation, could the doughnut be reattached to the skeleton manually?
<<I have never seen this work>>
Would puncturing the doughnut with a needle kill it and could he heal around a suture?
<<I have seen this done with some of the so-called “leather” corals (Toadstool, etc.), but I wouldn’t recommend this procedure for a large-polyped coral such as this. Your water quality issues were the cause of the polyp bail-out… Addressing these will certainly benefit the remaining corals/any future additions. You could try a few spots of superglue in an attempt to hold the polyp in place in hopes that it will reattach to its skeleton on its own…but I do fear/expect that the Cynarina is lost>>
Thanks Again,
Beth
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>

R5: Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube – 05/23/09
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Beth>>
Just an update on the progress of my tank.
<<Sweet! Thank you for this…>>
19 days later: Still performing large water changes, I cannot seem to get the nitrate, calcium, alkalinity and pH to an acceptable level.
<<Very odd…especially considering the size of the system. Perhaps time for a change of salt mix…and or new/different test kits>>
Yesterday, I am performing the every other day water tests and am once again baffled at the large reading of calcium, over 600 and the low reading of pH when I remembered something I read about tests kits and their expiration dates.
<<Ah!>>
Low and behold the test kit that I just bought this month has expired, some of it in 2007.
<<Mmm…shame on the retailer/etailer that sold it to you…and on “you” [grin] for not checking (if bought locally) yourself>>
Called the company and they are sending a replacement kit at no cost.
<<Excellent>>
Meanwhile, I used my old pH kit that is not expired and pH came in at 8.1.
<<Acceptable…but would like to se it a bit higher (8.3) just for the extra “margin.”>>
Anyway, I do not, conclusively, know the other parameters of water and may have been making these water changes for no reason for almost 3 weeks.
<<Not for “no reason,” or at least not without “benefit” to your system/organisms…but certainly maybe for reasons other than you thought, eh?>>
Frog Spawn, star & button polyps, yuma, remaining feather duster are doing well.
<<Good>>
My chili coral has not opened his polyps in almost 3 weeks (he is in a cave with little light)
<<Likely there is nothing in the water to entice it to do so (the very frequent water changes may well be “not helping” in this instance). But these corals are not easily kept (i.e. – fed), regardless>>
my firefish has not made an appearance in over a week and I sucked half of the banded shrimp's appendages off when I was trying to remove the Cyanobacteria, poor guy is hobbling around the tank.
<<Will hopefully/should recover with successive molts>>
Have you heard anything about fish swimming into the bottom intake of a BioCube?
<<Doesn’t ring a bell>>
I do not think there is anyway to reach him if he did manage to get in there. I tried calling the company but the operator said the tech line was busy and now I only get a busy signal when I call the operator.
<<Hmm…>>
The sea pen is still making daily appearances but his polyps are not as extended as they used to be
<<Perhaps the same issues as with the Chili Coral>>
and the donut coral seems to be doing fine for now.
<<Ah yes, the polyp that bailed from its skeleton…time will tell>>
I originally placed him in the sand and tried to anchor him with a frag (no coral on it) and he swelled up and escaped. I fished him out from underneath some rocks and put him in a filter bag that I cut to size and anchored the bag down. He hated it, so he is currently in the sand wedged in between coral and a rocky overhang. He is getting plenty water current and when I fed him tonight, boy did he swell up. I thought his insides were going to come out of his mouth. I researched Cynarina lacrymalis and the donut is an Acanthophyllia.
<<Ah…okay…similar care/feeding/environmental conditions>>
Great article here http://www.advancedaquarist..com/issues/nov2003/invert.htm. I still haven't found any information at all about successful regrowth of skeleton.
<<Mmm, no…I really don’t think this is likely>>
I do know that additional calcium added does not help the growth of the skeleton, but light does.
<<Photosynthesis drive many mechanisms>>
The skeleton grows faster in daylight compared to evening but I cannot leave the lights on for extended amounts of time until I get the Cyano completely under control.
<<And I don’t really think it will/expect it to make much difference>>
Please let me know if I should be doing/not doing anything at this time.
<<Continue as you are with water changes and siphoning of the Cyano…and get/use some accurate test kits>>
Once my kit comes in I'll test the parameters of the water but at this time I simply cannot afford to buy another kit.
<<Eek!>>
I would like to know if you believe it best to start a refugium. My tank is only 14 gallons but with all the rock the actual water volume is about 8 gallons.
<<Oh yes! The added volume alone will be most beneficial…not to mention the other benefits of an in-line refugium. The bigger the better!!!>>
I appreciate all your help.
Beth
<<It’s my pleasure…do keep me posted. Eric Russell>>

New system setup: Stocking\water quality\feeding\reading 4/8/2009
Hey,
<Hello.>
I'm a beginner to owning fish and wanted to know why my fish have been having troubles.
<You've come to the right place.>
I have a 26 gallon saltwater tank with a really old Bio-Wheel filter and a brand new submersible power head pump. I have a 20 pound bag of Live Aragonite Reef sand and about 10 pounds of this sand, I forgot the name but it puts purple algae on the rocks and is apparently good for the fish.
<??>
I couldn't afford Live Rock so I just used some Lava Rock.
<Can be hazardous, depending on where it comes from....>
I had three little $3 Damsels in there for a week to speed up the process and one of them died half way through the week
<Could be a number of causes, anything toxic in the rock, ammonia, etc.
Read here for information about the nitrogen cycle and toxic water
conditions: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/toxictk.htm >
I've been feeding them Cubes of Frozen Shrimp.
<OK>
I now have a Snowflake Eel its about 10" and thin like a pencil.
<Inappropriate for a tank this small.>
I've had it for five days and it won't eat. I've tried feeding it silver side and the cubes of shrimp I've been feeding the damsels. The eel was a friend's and he needed to get rid of it because it was getting picked on by his shark.
The reason I think something is wrong is because my friend had no problem feeding it and I want to no if there is something wrong with my tanks environment.
<and your water testing indicates......?>
I've tried hand feeding it and just leaving the silver side in there. I didn't know how to check the water to see if that's the problem.
<Test kits available at any store that sells fish.>
I have a hydrometer and the salt level is 24.
<1.024 I'm guessing>
I'm concerned cause I don't know a lot about it please help because Saltwater Aquariums for Dummies isn't helping.
<A useless book in my opinion, more incorrect information than facts.. You are going to have to start at the beginning. Do start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/marsetupindex1.htm >
<Mike>

Diary of a Nanowave... Sm. SW sys. maint.  04/03/09
Hi All,
<Josh>
First I'd like to thank you all for the site. I set up my 9 gallon tank 3 weeks ago, and you saved several lives already.
<I fully suspect you are correct>
My tank is an Aquamedic Nanowave 9 (My landlord will not allow any tank over 10 gallons) On advice from the LFS, I had within the first week:
10lbs live sand, 8 lb large live rock. 8 gallons live water (he said there would be no cycle because of this)
<Mmm, do you believe this now?>
5 bumble Bee snails, 5 Nassarius snails, 2 Astrea snails, 4 Blue-Legged Hermit, 1 Scarlett Hermit, 1 Emerald Crab, 1 Peppermint Shrimp, a Percula Clownfish,
<Needs more room>
Feather Duster, Flame Scallop
<...>
and a Torch coral the size of a softball when open (The Torch for the Clownfish supposedly) and a tiny (1 inch tall) thing he called a Candy Cane Coral that he threw in for free.
<Yippee>
Doesn't really look like Candy Cane from pics I've seen online. The tips are solid bright green, and seem hard, not like soft tissue.
Anyway, after finding your site, all has been returned except the Clown, the Candy Cane and the Clean-Up Crew. I don't want to stress the Clown out so soon with another move just yet, but will find a bigger home for him soon. He's active and seemingly healthy right now.
My plan now, after finding WWM, is to stick with Zoas and Mushrooms for Coral and add 1 Neon Goby or other fish of that size. I'm assuming the stock lighting is OK for this? 1 24 watt 65k and 1 24 watt Actinic.
<Mmm, can work>
A couple questions:
Sandbed: My sandbed is about 2 inches, which I now know is in "No-Man's Land' territory.
<Like all "rules of thumbs" this one, re the depth of sand encompasses generalization>
What would be the best time to fix this?
<In this setting, given the volume, the presence of the LR, I'd leave it as is>
And what would be your suggestion...add more sand to get up to 4 inches, or removing to get down to 1 inch?
<I'd leave as is>
I want to do as little damage as possible to the Clean-Up crew and Clown.
Filtration/Circulation: The pump is rated at 110 gallons per hour. I added a Koralia Nano Powerhead to the right corner of the tank facing the top center of the front glass because there seemed to be a lot of spaces with little flow. Is this too much flow, or not really helping?
<Not too much, is helping>
I'm a bit worried it could slow down the water intake into the skimmer.
Skimmer: Its the stock Venturi style skimmer. The skimmate is tea colored, and fills up the cup every 2 days or so.
<I'd adjust... for darker tea, less volume>
But the micro-bubbles won't stop.
<See WWM re>
I got it down to very little in the tank, but never completely out. I added an intake valve to control airflow a bit, and some Poly-Filter. Too much at first, as it blocked the flow in the back chamber. I took some out until the chambers. I haven't been able to find anything else to try. I know the micro-bubbles can be harmful, and its just not attractive.
<Agreed>
I also added Chemi-Pure Elite. I read great things about it, but then not so great things on WWM. So...should I keep the Chemi-Pure?
<I wouldn't use a whole "unit" here... but is a good product... open the bag, pour two-thirds out, replenish this every few weeks...>
I'm guessing carbon may be the better alternative, but not sure why.
Parameters:
Temp -79 Degrees
PH - 8.4
SG - 1.024
Ammonia - 0
Nitrates - 10ppm
Nitrites - 0
Calcium - 450
Alk - 300ppm (the test doesn't list dKH)
<... Keep reading... dKH is a measure of alkalinity, along with the other units of measuring alkalinity, such as mEq/land ppm CaCO3.
2.8 dKH = 1.0 mEq/l = 50 ppm CaCO3>
*Tests were done about 30 minutes after lights out.
One last note (I promise the e-mail is almost over :), Water changes are being done at 1/2 gallon - 1 gallon twice per week.
<Mmm, I'd be switching out much more>
Thanks in advance,
Josh
<I do wish you had a larger system... small volumes are just too inherently unstable... with confluent troubles... Perhaps saving, planning toward getting a new landlord...? Please peruse here: http://wetwebmedia.com/smmarsysmaintfaqs.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>

Re: Re: Re: Re: Cyanobacteria/BGA- Nano Troubles...clownfish 3/28/09
Hello again,
<Matt.>
Quick question on Aiptasia anemones: I have a client with a 14 gal BioCube. She had 3 1" tank raised clowns I put in there, were fine for about 1 month. She reported 2 missing clownfish and the third I noticed had contracted some velvet. The corals in the tank are doing really well...Did not find the 2 clown bodies anywhere...I did notice a few aiptasia anemones that have grown larger and spread a bit since I last saw them last.. Is it possible these anemones killed the tiny clowns and ate them?
<No.><<Mmm, RMF disagrees. The Glass Anemones could have consumed them, and possibly killed them.>>
Largest anemone is about the size of a quarter. I will throw in some peppermint dudes in there, they have always worked for me. You ever heard of an aiptasia eating small fish?
<They are predatory, they can...but this size vs. this fish...the cause was most likely related to tank size. Be it stability in many respects, O2 saturation or flat out room for the fish.><<Do agree. RMF>>
All water params are golden and stable.
<...ok.>
These anemones are the only things that stuck out to me as being suspect. These are hardy tank raised fish....hmmmm.. any thoughts?
<Much more likely the system in some respect.>
Thanks,
<Welcome.>
-Matthew
<Scott V.>

Algae: Control, (over)Stocking, Little Useful Information 3/28/2009
Hi WWM crew!
<Hi>
I have a 29g BioCube with a maroon clown, a dwarf angel, a lawnmower blenny, a boxfish, a star polyp, turbo snails, bumblebee snails, hermit crabs and a cleaner shrimp.
<Sigh.... Way overstocked. Maroon Clown will get to 6' in length, a Boxfish can get over 18" in length and secretes toxic slime when stressed out.>
My green hair algae and purple coralline algae have gotten out of control and I need something to fix this problem.
<Hair algae is the result of too many nutrients in the water. What you are calling coralline algae is, I suspect, blue-green algae.. I've never head anyone complain that they are growing too much coralline algae.>
I've thought about replacing all of my liverock and scrubbing the sides so it looks nice again. I don't mind the coralline algae on the back but I don't like it on the glass.
<That is not going to change the root cause of the algae being there to begin with - your water is overloaded with nutrients that algae loves.  My salinity is 31ppt and ammonia, nitrate, nitrite and pH levels are all fine.
<What's fine? We need data. What is your alkalinity and calcium measuring?, what kind of filtration are you using, how often are you changing water?>
Please help!
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/grnalgcontfaqs4.htm and here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/MarInd3of6.htm>
Thanks!!
<Mike>

Clownfish, Star Polyp system ... Sm. SW op. 2/26/2009
Greetings!
<and Salutations!>
Thanks so much for the wonderful website! Today I have have a few questions to pose.
<Fire away!>
First off, let me describe my tank and its parameters:
AquaMedic Nano Wave 9 gallon
AquaMedic Venturi Skimmer
Refugium (I'm about to add some Macroalgae to it, could you recommend a species?)
<Chaetomorpha - see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/greenalg.htm>
Sponge and Ceramic Filtration
7 lbs. of LR (planning to add a little more soon)
SG 1.0245
Temperature 79-80 F
pH 8.3
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Weekly 1 gallon water changes (soon to be increased to twice weekly)
<Good idea.>
Marine DT's Phytoplankton dosed every three days
Livestock:
1 Ocellaris Clownfish (tank-bred)
<This tank may be a bit small when he grows up - may try to sample some of your invertebrates>
1 Blue-Leg Hermit Crab
1 Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab
1 Emerald Crab
<Keep an eye on them as he gets bigger>
3 Snails
1 Xenia
1 Star Polyp Colony (about 3" wide)
1 Small Zoanthid Frag
1 Mushroom (> 1" wide, in refugium recovering from sickly period, considering ditching it)
<You may want to consider adding some carbon in the filtration system, the Zoas can release some noxious chemicals into the water>
Well, there's all the information, now for the questions (once again, thank you for your time).
The clownfish was purchased about a week ago, and has looked exceptionally healthy, and is readily and greedily accepting food (frozen brine shrimp with Spirulina and high-quality marine pellets). He is intended to be the only fish in the tank, as I realize I have already reached my max bio-load.
<Indeed you have.>
Anyway, he has had for as long as I have owned him a series of roughly even black splotches. It is not Black Spot, I believe, and not an internal parasite, as he has been acting perfectly healthy. They are not protrusions and only appear on the orange areas of the torso, and not on the fins.
Could this be the Mal-pigmentation disorder? It doesn't look like the pictures of that I have seen. Could it even be part of his coloration?
<Hard to tell without a photo, but likely part of his coloration, my clown has a bunch of black speckles on his back.
Also, at night, as soon as lights are out, he retreats to the same corner of the tank every night, and then proceeds to make a little indentation in the sand that he snuggles up into to "sleep". It sometimes does this in the day. Other than that it is completely active at all levels of the tank, swimming around and snapping up copepods. Is this normal behavior in Clowns? I hope none of this is anything to worry about.
<Absolutely normal.>
Another question - my Star Polyp has been doing fine over the past few weeks, until just yesterday it began to act strange. It just won't open up its polyps, as if something in the chemistry of the water is off. My Xenia, of all things, however, is doing fine. Could it be the mushroom in the refugium (I'm kind of ready to chuck it out the window, some of things I have read on WWM and other websites point to them competing with other corals). I tried spot feeding it with phyto, but to no avail.
<My Star polyp colony has closed up for a few days at a time as well, So I wouldn't worry unless this goes on for more than a few days. n the other hand, there could be some chemical warfare going on. Try adding some carbon to your filtration system.
If you have any recommendations, they would be much appreciated.
Many Thanks!
<You're very welcome>
Isaac
<Mike>

Sm. Reef Op.    2/22/09
I was searching for lifetime of Power Compact tubes. I calculate ~4300 hours from your staff's recommendation of replacement at six months of 24/7 use. My background is a BS Chemistry, Univ of Delaware (1979). I am a chromatographer by training. My current (personal) interest surround a quantitative chromatographic determination of ions in saltwater reef aquarium water. Specifically I'm interested in the Mg++ / Ca++ ratio (see below).
<Interesting>
I have been keeping aquaria since I was about ten years old. My current setup is a 30 gallon reef which has been in existence for about fifteen years. It's current incarnation has been up for almost two years. The original setup had a undergravel filter, a remnant of its progression from fish only to reef in the early ninety's. Needless to say the substrate turned into concrete. This drove me for better or worse to a bare bottom.
Specifics of the setup are:
~30? pounds of live rock acquired over ~2 years many years ago, stacked loosely away from all tank walls, sitting a bare bottom with the fewest points of bottom contact for easy maintenance
Lighting:
2x96w PC lighting, 1 50/50 actinic/10K, 1 10K
2x21w T5 no lighting, 1 actinic, 1 10K
Controlled by 3 Coralife digital timers staggered on/off times ranging from 13 hr photoperiod for T5's, 11 hr 50/50 PC, 8 hr PC 10K 3x2 blue LED photoperiod off night illumination
Filtration:
Eheim 2215 Canister filter with surface skimmer driving a Countercurrent Protein Skimmer (name forgotten) ~24" tall Odyssea 350GPH powerhead w/sponge filter, also used for short term particulate adsorbents such as 3x/year carbon and/or occasional phosphate remover
Flow:
2 Koralia Nano powerheads, opposed flow, staggered daytime operation with light timers
1 Koralia 1 constant on
1 Odyssea 350GPH photoperiod off nighttime flow
Water quality stats (using mainly Red Sea test kits):
temp = ~24.5 C +/- 1.0 C/0.0 C (25.5 C nighttime / 24.5 C daytime)
sp gr = 1.0250
Ca++ = 425 ppm, test 1-3x/wk
Alk = 10.5dKH, test 1-3x/wk
Mg++ = 1525ppm, test 6x/yr
NO3- = 0ppm, test ~4x/yr always no reading
PO3-- = 0ppm, test infrequently, unhappy with color scale, difficult to
read
pH = ~8.2+??, useless, scale difficult to read
I dose:
Kalkwasser daily in the AM when pH is low
Seachem Reef Calcium, 2cc/day in morning
Seachem Reef Advantage Calcium as needed to maintain Ca++ ~425ppm usually
2 teaspoons/wk added in PM
Seachem Reef Builder as needed to maintain Alk ~10-12 dKH usually 2 teaspoons/wk added in AM
most recently Purple Up, 1cc/day at night before bed my own Lugol's sol'n, ~40uL/wk
Water Change & Maintenance:
2gal ~2 wks, vacuuming stuff from the bottom
Eheim cleaned 4x/yr
Skimmer gunk parts cleaned ~month, broken down once per 2yrs Odyssea foam cleaned every 6 wks except if adsorbents are run glass cleaned weekly, very little algae growth
Inhabitants: If you're interested I have some pictures at:
http://mysite.verizon.net/goldgift/index.htm
It's not the best web presentation, but it is a work in progress.
Notes since the pictures were taken.
The Galaxea has added ~1 cm of mantle around the entire periphery in the year I've had it. I have also added a specimen of Acropora that has grown ~1.5 cm on a dozen branches in the two months its been in the tank. For the first time in awhile I am forced to think about longer term (growth) consequences of my habitat.
The yellow polyps are in decline, and I'm thinking my target temperature of 22-23 C is too low (summertime it gets to 25-26 and at the end of summer is when the attrition began). My new target temp is about 25 C.
<Wow, thank you for sharing all that! It will be posted.>
So to sum it up, I did not mean any hard feelings. If you guys read this far then you are troopers indeed.
<No worries... we're cool.>
Ed Dugan
<Cheers,
Sara M.>

Algae explosion- Help!!!,  Sm. SW    2-19-09
Hi there.
<Hello>
I have a 15 gallon marine tank that's been going about 6 months now. I have constantly battled algae in it for the last 3 months or so, having to do a complete tank clean every week or so. Red Cyanobacteria and another kind of yellowish-brown algae now cover nearly every surface in the tank. It looks like a tank of sewage. What can I do?
<Nutrient control.>
I have heard that lack of water movement/oxygen is likely the culprit, but how can that be?
<Water movement can be an issue, more likely nitrates and phosphates.
Control those and you will most likely control you algae.>
I have got the following in the tank: Aqueon 30 Power Filter, and a Koralia nano circulation pump (supposedly moves 240gph). I do not have a protein skimmer or any powerheads. Would either of those help?
<Yes, a quality skimmer and good water flow will go far in helping with this situation.>
-Nick Peterson
<See here for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/avoidingalgaeproblesm.htm.>
<Chris> 
Thanks so much for the help. I will give that a try.
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Nano reef issue, maint. and Hang-on 'fuge f'  02/09/09
Dear Crew!
I have a question regarding my 10G nano reef ecosystem. I hope you'll be able to answer ASAP because I am a bit afraid. Thank you in advance.
I have a 3.5G HOB Aquafuge with 3" DSB and Caulerpa + Chaeto macros. About 2 weeks ago I noticed that my HOB refugium skimmer/CPR Aquafuge wasn't making any skimmate. At first I did not pay serious attention. After a few weeks I got suspicious. I did some troubleshooting and finally found when I took off the powerhead that runs the fuge (MaxiJet 1200) that there were 4-5 small scavenger snails at the intake. I cleaned the powerhead and reinstalled it, and the skimmer started to work again immediately. Previous to this my nitrate test reading was 0ppm. After fixing the powerhead issue the reading has been 15-20 ppm. I did a 20% water change this morning but it didn't lower the nitrate levels too much.
I think nutrients have been pushed back from the fuge to the tank.
<Hmm... it doesn't really work that way. But in any case, your 3.5G "refugium" with what you're calling a "DSB" is not functioning as either.
I understand why these tiny HOT "refugiums" are tempting. I had one myself back before I knew any better. But basically, all you really have is a puddle of water with sand in it. The only good use for these things (imo) is macro algae growth (and maybe some gas exchange). But if you put sand in them, you're just asking for trouble. If I were you, I'd remove the sand, thoroughly clean the thing, and use it only for macro-algae cultivation.>
I've never had nitrate problems with this tank before. What do you think?
Will the DSB and the macroalgaes break down the nutrients again, or should I clean the fuge and introduce a "new" macroalgae colony? Should I wait a day or 2 and re-check? I'm very afraid because it is a fully grown 2 year
old set up and I have put lots of work into it.
<Again, if it were me (and it was me once upon a time), I'd remove the sand and just use macroalgae. If the macroalgae you have looks weak or dying (or is covered in debris)... maybe rinse it well, or get new macroalgae.
That's your call.>
Please advise!
Thank you,
Sonny
<Good luck,
Sara M.>

Sebae vs. Xenia, Green Hair Algae, Rio Skimmer... Sm. SW op.  10/23/08
Hello,
<Shellie>
Apologies in advance for the long post. I had a SW set up 20 years ago and have come back to the fold and a whole new world!
<Welcome back>
I've been reading this site for months, often till my eyeballs feel like raisins, but have been reluctant to ask questions hoping to find my answers within the myriad articles and FAQ. So much important information that I had to start a journal. I will confess right up front that I have done things in a very backwards and upside down manner but am working my way to where I should be by collecting missing information from WWM and other sources. My LFS is great but a little too laid back for me. I've gotten pretty good info from them but I need details & specifics. I bought "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" and am working my way through it. I also use "The Reef Aquarium: Science, Art & Technology" by Julian Sprung - recommended by my LFS.
In April 2008, I started a 20G tank with about 30# of LR, LS, 1 Condylactis, 1 Sebae, pair of Maroon Clowns (m/f), 2 Scarlet Shrimp, 1 High Fin Red Banded Goby, 1 Aurora Goby, Elegant Moon Polyp, Daisy Polyp, Xenia (multiplying like crazy), 1 Feather Duster (began as one, now, they're all over), 1 Sarcophyton, 1 Sally Lightfoot Crab - v. small, 1 Emerald Crab - v. small, 1 Pearly Headed Jawfish, 1 Fighting Conch, an assortment of snails and hermits. All fish and inverts are fairly small except: the female clown is 3x the size of the male and Jawfish is adult. My intent is to return the crabs when they get larger - both sport less than 1/2" bodies. I got them in hopes of Green Hair Algae control - see below.
<Yikes... this is way too much, and disparate life for such a small volume>
Filtration is a Rio Nano Skimmer (which I despise) and 1 100 gph Powerhead, lights are 24" hood w/2-65W Actinic and 2- 65W Regular lights. That's the set up. Water parameters are normal: SG: 1.025, pH: 8.3, ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0, nitrate: 0. Temp at 79F. Habits: 5 Gallon water change every 5-6 days
Problems: 1.) Green Hair Algae is rampant. Snails have afros. To combat, I cut back lighting to 6 hours actinic/4 white per day and I feed very sparingly. And I've increased the water changes to every 5 days. And I got 2 crabs (lightfoot & emerald). I do not want to use any algicides. Is there anything else I can do to get rid of it?
<... a much more sophisticated filtration set-up is needed... and a much larger volume for the life you list... at the barest minimum three times this size... Otherwise, the options for control, prevention for Green algae posted on WWM...>
2.) I have one too many anemones. I realize (after the fact) that I should not have purchased that beautiful tiny electric yellow sebae at an LFS that I no longer visit. Upon introduction to my tank (with my established, happy Condy named Baby Doc), it moved all over and finally settled in a cave with it's foot on the underside - essentially upside down. I did some research and learned that it was 1.)dyed and
2.) should not be in a tank with another anemone. However, since it attached itself to the inside of a cave, I could not remove it without dislodging an 8# piece of LR so I left it alone. It willingly hosted the *large* female clown and she fed it while it was upside down. The large Condy hosts the tiny male clown who feeds it, too. Finally, after 3 months, the sebae color is now partly creamy white and part rusty brown which I believe to be its zooxanthellae coming back? In the last month, it's moved from it's cave and come to rest on the side of the LR but is UNDER the Condy's tentacles. I went to my preferred LFS and started talking allelopathy but got blank stares. I came back to WWM and read that this is a recipe for disaster. Not knowing who would win, I began increasing my water changes because I have no confidence in my Skimmer (in fact, I hate it, it never seems to work properly). Two months have gone by and the Sebae continued to live within the tentacles of the Condy. How is this possible?
<Life can be tenacious>
I did a 50% water change several days ago and the Sebae dislodged itself and was floating on the bottom of the tank. I placed it on a rock in front and away from the Condy but within 20 minutes, it put itself right against the trunk of the Condy. (The Condy is flourishing, BTW). This evening, just before lights out, the Sebae has moved away from the Condy. It is now sitting against the trunk of a large (5" tall) Xenia. Is there known conflict between Sebae and Xenia?
<Can be>
I'm thinking that this Sebae is finally healthy and is looking for action and I'm going to have to give him to my LFS.
<Good>
Last problem: I have a Rio Nano Protein Skimmer that does not consistently work.
<A poor design, lack of engineering... it's not you>
I rarely get any skimmate (but I water change a lot) but the bigger problem IMO is that I can't keep water circulating. No matter how I adjust the bits and parts, I'll leave it with water flowing freely through the carbon and back into the tank and within a short time, the returning water slows to a trickle then stops. I know it's only 20G tank but I'd like to keep skimming. Is the AquaC Remora a next step up/suitable replacement for the Rio?
<A vastly superior product>
And the Rio came with almost NO information/instruction. I can't effectively troubleshoot it without going online and reading blogs about it.
Forgive me for the length. Please answer at your convenience.
Many thanks,
Shellie Huy
<Do keep reading, sharing... And saving up towards a larger system... you need it. Bob Fenner>

Re: Nano Lighting/BGA, Filtration 10/22/08
Good day Scott V./WWM Crew,
<Hello again.>
Thank you for your help thus far.
<Welcome.>
My question is regarding diatoms and thereafter.
I currently have some live rock in a separate tank. Once I start the new nano, after the cycling period, I expect the appearance of diatoms.
<Possibly.>
My problem is that I unfortunately do not have access to a clean up crew.
<No value with diatoms/BGA anyhow.>
How do I deal with the diatoms? Should I begin the tank with Rowa phos and carbon?
<Carbon if you wish. Phosphate removing compounds can strip the water of all phosphate, some is needed. Your regular water changes should be enough to control phosphate with appropriate feeding. This will also be your avenue to combat the BGA/diatoms should it appear. More info here, same fueling factors: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm>
Any other suggestions would be very helpful!!!
<Sounds like you are well on your way.>
Have already purchased the Deltec MCE-300 skimmer.
<Nice skimmer.>
Thanks!!!
Adriel
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

Ailing Pagoda and angry Perculas 10/8/08
Hello!
<Hi>
I have a small 8 gallon BioCube at my office with some live rock, mushrooms, anthelia, polyps, and a pagoda cup coral. I have 2 false percula clowns, a neon goby and a yellow watchman goby.
<That is too much life for such a small tank.>
My tank has been up and running for about 1 1/2 years now with all the same fish and corals. Recently, my pH became very low (7.4) despite weekly water changes, and adding buffer. Out of desperation (my first mistake) I purchased a buffering powder that after adding 1/2 of a packet would miraculously adjust my pH to 8.2. Yeah, right. As soon as I added it, my pagoda seemed to shrink before my eyes!
<Probably pH shock.>
It's polyps retracted and it stayed like this for about a week. I was sure I killed it, however it is opening up again although the polyps are smaller? It's just not the same! So my first question is, what did I do and can it be remedied?
<You most likely raised the pH too fast, not much can be done now except maintain good water quality.>
My second problem is related to the percula clowns. They made their home in the pagoda cup and guarded it if I tried to get near it. I removed the pagoda to put it in a 58 gal we have at home in order to try to nurse it along. They are ANGRY!!! The female is attacking other corals in the tank now and is not a happy camper.
<Is looking for a new home.>
I didn't know if I should try to replace the pagoda with another coral in hopes that they might take to it, or if once they have a home they never adapt to another one?
<Can find a new home if they find something to their liking.>
Do I put the pagoda back in the tank and see if it recovers?
<I would leave it in the more stable larger tank.>
Another tidbit... I tested the 8 gal. and figured out the calcium levels were too high which was causing the low pH. I have since gotten the parameters back to normal.
<Good, but the inherent problem of small tanks, parameters can change radically quickly in small water volumes.>
Thanks for your tips!
Wendy
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Water Movement 9/23/08
Hi Crew,
<Hello Sam.>
I have a 6 year old 10 gallon setup with live rock and sand, a penguin mini filter, 65w PC's, Candycane corals and some fish (more than you would approve).
<…You said it!>
I began having Cyano problems a few months ago. It started, I think, by my not changing the bulbs in time.
<Or finally seeing the consequence of overstocking, as you say it.>
It has improved but it is still there. When I do a cleanup it now takes a week till it is bad instead of overnight. I cut down feeding to once a day and I keep the lights off 2 days a week every once and a while. I have a small power head (rated 130gph) that faces the length of the tank. Would it be a good or bad idea to place it in mid tank facing the width.
<It may help, but there are likely other fueling factors here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm.>
It would probably hit the glass and divide itself in both direction which would probably be a lot more movement all around than what I have now. I know you guys think it is never too much movement so I am not sure why I am asking.
<There can be too much, specifically of the laminar type: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm. Again, not likely the culprit, other factors here. >
But I haven't emailed you for a while.
Thanks
Sam
<Welcome, Scott V.>

T5 lighting/algae problems... reading, sm. SW maint.   9/2/08
Hello,
<Scarlett>
I currently have a nano-reef system of 15 gallons. I have 2 ocellaris clownfish,
<Need more room...>
1 Royal Gramma,
<Ditto>
3 hermit crabs, one turbo snail, one emerald crab
<Predatory>
and 3 Cerith snails in it with some live rock. I was trying to grow some Zoanthids, so I purchased a nova-extreme lighting system with 2 T5 bulbs in it. Ever since then I've been having green algae growing out of control!! I have to remove my live rock and soak it in hot water to be able to scrub off all the algae at least once a month. Can you recommend a good algaecide
<...>
or what bulbs I should get that maybe don't put out so much light. The corals I tried to raise died, so having lighting suitable for them is no longer an issue.
Please help!! I'm so sick of algae!!
Thanks!
Scarlett Mooney
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/maintindex.htm
scroll down to "Algae"... Bob Fenner>

Small reef maintenance question - 07/13/08
Hello pros!
<Hello Sonny, Mich here with you.>
I hate myself for asking a question like this,
<Don't hate yourself!>
after many years in this great hobby. I have a 10G nano reef tank, recently upgraded with a HOB refugium. I used to do 10% water changes weekly, about a Gallon at the time.
<OK.>
I was wondering since I set up the refugium, should I raise the volume of the water when I do the changing process?
<I would.>
With the refugium I add another approx. 3 G's of water to the total water volume. Does the extra water counts when I do the water changes? ( instead of the 1 G should I do 1.5 G or so? )
<This is what I would do though there is not hard and fast rule, but frequent small water changes are beneficial. More here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/scottsh2ochgart.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/watchgantart.htm >
Thank you for your time,
<Happy to share! Mich>
Sonny

Nano tank questions, stkg, inherent limitations   7/12/08
Greetings WWM crew
<Hello Sean! Benjamin here!>
I have a question about chemistry, and also lighting for a Crocea clam.
But first some background: I am a bit of a crazy jerk, with what I think is a WAY overstocked 20gal long nano: 2 ocellaris, 1 bicolor Dottyback, 2 peppermint shrimp, large brittle star, sand sifting star, 2 Tonga fighting and one queen conch, about 10 Ceriths,. 5 Astreas, about 5 or so blue leg hermits, about 1.5sq foot surface area of my live rock is covered in Zoanthids, 2 small finger leathers, one 9 inch deresa (got him when he was only 3 inches - he may soon go back to LFS store for trade/credit - TOO BIG now - if he slams his shell, it ejects water from the tank and sometimes hits the lighting) and one 3 inch crocea. Various sponges (blue and white encrusting types mostly)
The above is not TOO badly overstocking (except the deresa), But...
Get this: a *yellow tang*.
<Another victim of yellow tang mania...poor fish>
Yep, in a 20 long. For two years now. Believe it or not, he's fine and happy (he's small, though) Eating well, good color. He acts more like a puffer (personality wise) than a tang - he actually greets me when I come to the tank, will eat Nori right out of my hand... I got him when he was only 1.5 inches long. LFS tells me he was collected off of Christmas island. Now he's about 4 inches. Eventually (soon!) he WILL need a bigger tank, of course. Which will likely mean I trade him back to LFS for a new baby 1.5 inch tang.
<Trade back for something else...health wise, a 1.5" tang should really have just as much space to live as a full-grown one>
Or I may just bite the bullet and get a "real" tank.
<Now you're speaking my language...>
Things are lit with a single 150 watt AquaLine AB HQI 20000K bulb (yes, I know, 10000K or better yet a 6500K would give better PAR, but I like blue!)
Aqua C nano remora skimmer with the stock MaxiJet 900 replaced with a 1200.
JBJ nano chiller. 2 MaxiJet 1200's for circulation, alternating between the two on a 15 minute timer. (which means I have a total of 4 MaxiJet 1200's in that little tank - 1 for chiller, one for skimmer, 2 for circulation) I have a 4.5 inch sandbed, and about 10lbs live rock
Water parameters:
Specific gravity 1.025
Temp is kept around 77F.
8.1-8.4PH (and its LOWER in evening!?! I'll explain my theory of the swing presently)
8-10dKH,
calcium 380-400.
All nitrogen waste stuff is 0 or close enough that my SeaTest kit can't see any (including nitrates) Phosphates don't register on my SeaTest kit either.
I lose about .25 to .33 gal a day to evaporation. I top off twice daily with RO.
<Buffered, I hope?>
About the swing... those parameter swings are DAILY! What bugs me is the reverse of normal for the PH swing: Lower after the lights are on all day?
My theory is: the swing seems to be due to a combo of factors: the big Deresa in a tank with so little water volume? (figure maybe 12 gals total actual water in there) -- Calcium and carbonates seem to get sucked out fast -. Although there may be some anoxic chemistry in the sand bed driving down the PH as well -- denizens are awake and making more nitrogenous waste during the day, drive the anaerobic bacteria more... also the evaporation can't be helping. Things drop, and I add 2 part (b ionic) and bring it back up each day. I have to take a bit of water out and replace it with RO to compensate so the salinity stays stable. (or more correctly, the specific gravity, since I use a hydrometer for testing) I noticed I can get a bit less swing if I dose a little magnesium and try to keep dKH more close to 12 and the calcium nearer 400.
Don't want to move to a calcium reactor because I have PH drops enough as is. Tried Kalkwasser for a while, (manual drip) but 2 part seems easier.
Short of getting more water volume (which is the correct answer of course) do you have any suggestions? most 20 long tanks seem to be all tempered, so drilling so that I can add a sump is no good. And of course hang on overflow boxes can lose their siphon, jam up, and my landlord would NOT appreciate the contents of even a small sump being on my floor.
<Do make sure your RO contains appropriate buffer to pH adjust, and to match the alkalinity your tank loses through the day. A small tank will tend to have larger alkalinity loss- and very rapid, to boot>
On to the lighting question:
I used to have a CoraLife 14000K HQI over the tank. Before that I had one 10000K 65w PC and one actinic 65w PC (CoraLife) With the PC's I had good coralline growth. When I switched to the HQI, all the coralline that was in direct light turned white on me within 3-4 days. (stuff in more shaded areas was OK) I switched to the bluer bulb, and it came back. I had gotten the HQI so that I could keep a nice little blue crocea in there. He liked the 14000K. He does NOT seem to like the 20000K as much. He has less color now.
<Yes....20K bulb is about 1/2 or less the light (lumens AND PAR) of a 10K>
Question: since the tank is only 12 inches high anyway, and the bottom 4.5 inches is sand, he is only in 7.5 inches depth when I have him on the substrate. Would moving him up another 4-5 inches make much difference?
<Not much...with this spectrum>
I could do this, but then he'll attach to the rock, and then it's a pain if I have to move him. He's so small the standard "put him an empty shell and let him attach to that" is not practical IMO - he and the shell will likely get knocked off the rocks. Substrate is the preferable location if he can get enough light there, IMO.
-Sean
<Benjamin>