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Naso tang floating at surface after transport and freshwater
dip 6/22/17 The Great Escape. Uncatchable Tang - 03/17/2006 Good Day all, <Hi Pete.> I have searched but have been unable to find a usable technique for catching a Naso Tang in a well populated reef system. I have a 6 inch Blonde Naso which I rescued from a poor local store about a year ago. He is now very healthy, eats all foods and gets along well with his tank mates. <Great!> The tank however is too small for this wonderful fish. To make a long story short, I have found a fellow enthusiast with a 500 gallon reef system that is willing to take the fish and give it a good home. <Sounds Good.> Is it easier to catch this fish at night when it is at rest? <Could be, if you are quick. I fear that if the fish bolts for it when startled it could injure itself on the rocks.> My attempts during the day are simply uprooting my corals. The fish seems to park in the same spot each night and is not disturbed by a flashlight so I thought it might be easier. <Try recruiting the other hobbyist (tell them to earn their fish). Double team the Naso, one holding a container, the other herding the fish into it.> Thanks in advance. Pete <Hope that Helps Pete. - Josh> By the way, I would like to take this opportunity to thank the WWM crew for this forum and encourage all who benefit from it to make a donation. The information we all receive is of great value and we should all show our support financially. <And a heartfelt thank you from the Crew.> Naso Tang ... selection? - 2/11/2006 I bought a Blonde Naso Tang last week. I bought him because the "expert" at the LFS said these were hardy fish and not particularly disease prone. <He's also a comedian too?> He also tested my water and told me it was fine, but I didn't ask the specific parameters. He told me that he had been quarantining using a UV sterilizer for approximately 1 month. The Naso has been in my tank for 4.5 days. I noticed two days ago that he has white spots on his fins. The same "expert" at the LFS advised me to give him a bath in 2.5 gals of fresh water and 11 drops of formalin with an antibiotic in the water. Is this the way to treat that? <I'd like to ask you a question first. Why didn't you quarantine the fish before placing it in your tank? This makes an effective treatment much easier. Freshwater dips are usually the first stage in treatment. Do google search our Wet Web site, keyword "freshwater dip". You will find your info there. I'm also hoping you have at least a 70 gallon tank for that guy for starters as they can attain a length of up to 8 inches and do require plenty of swimming room. James (Salty Dog)> Donna Re: Naso Tang 2/13/06 Thank you so much for your help. <You're welcome.> I am fairly new to the saltwater hobby <Naso tangs are not a fish for newbies for sure.> though I've been keeping freshwater fish for a few years. I don't have a quarantine tank set up. How many gallons should a quarantine tank be? And how long should I quarantine fish? <Do read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm James (Salty Dog)> Naso Tang Trouble - 02/03/2006 Hello WWM: <Hi John.> I appreciate your assistance in helping me diagnose a problem with a Naso Tang. <I'll try.> I have asked purported experts at 2 reputable fish stores to provide some guidance and each provided little or no assistance. <OK...No pressure.> THE ENVIRONMENT *100 Gallon Tank *100 Pounds of Tonga Rock *Established 1 Year *Temperature 84 Degrees <I'd lower this to about 78-80 if possible.> *Salinity - 1.023 *Ph - 7.9 <Try to get this up to about 8.3.> *P04 - 0 *N03 - 30 <Ouch. 10 or less would be much better.> *4 Clownfish *1 Sailfin Tang *1 Hippo Tang *1 Flame Angel *1 Royal Gramma *1 Goby THE PROBLEM I purchased the Naso approximately 2 weeks ago. He appeared healthy and reasonably active in a relatively small store tank. <Hmm...Reasonably?> After we purchased the fish we acclimated him to the water temperature and did a fresh water dip prior to releasing him into the display tank. <No QT I see. Only acclimated to temp.?> We noticed with 1-2 days that one of his eyes appeared to be injured and we were told it was most likely an injury and not eye cloud or Popeye. The water quality is perfect and I just recently had the tank serviced. <I wouldn't quite say perfect, but is mostly acceptable.> That problem seems to be improving. <Good.> The second problem is that the tang also eats very little. <Uh-Oh...> Flake and pellet food are not of particular interest though he did at times eat the seaweed. <Not good. Have you tried soaking these in a vitamin prep. or appetite stimulant?> The real problem now is that for the past 2-3 days he has been moving erratically. He generally is inactive is often seen at the bottom of the tank or on an angle against the rock or, at times, flat on the crushed coral. <Sounds like stress. The filtration seems inadequate with the nitrate levels, and Tangs need an environment with low metabolic wastes and high dissolved oxygen. It sounds like these are the problems as well as a lack of personal space for this fish.> The gills are moving rapidly and the fish appears to be in severe stress. The service person said that everything is fine and further that Naso Tangs in particular tend to behave that way and will rest on the bottom of the tank and against rock and I should not be concerned. <What!? This is definitely something to be concerned with.> The fish will sporadically swim for short periods then will again rest at the bottom of the tank. When sporadically bothered by the other tangs the fish will tail whack and defend itself. The situation looks grim. Any suggestions? <I don't think this tank is big enough for all these fish. This is probably a combination of environmental and psychological stress. I'd start with a good 25-30% water change to lower those nitrates. Given the mix of fish, I'd say you dissolved oxygen is low also, so I'd add an airstone or other means of aeration. How's the flow in your tank? Vigorous circulation is also necessary. Skimmer? Don't see one listed. As far as the mix you've got, review on WWM re, and consider reducing this load.> Thank you. John <You're welcome. - Josh> Naso lituratus Care and Cyano 11/30/2005 Hello Crew, <Hi Steve.> Hope your holiday season is going well. Thanks for taking time to still tend to the questions posted here on a daily basis. <Thank you…and for me helping out here is actually a nice break from the hustle and bustle.> I recently added to the main display after a short QT a Naso Tang (Lipstick). The short QT was due to the fact that the 20 gallon QT tank was just too small and the Naso was not a happy camper in such small quarters. The Naso is between 6" - 7" long with good body thickness and great coloration. <Oh yes this was far to small even for a short term stay, for larger animals like this (when buying a larger tank is out of the question) I like to use plastic containers or even Rubbermaid tubs labeled as food safe can work.> I was told this was a Blonde Naso (male with streamers) and I have researched the species before so I am quite familiar with the general characteristics of this fish. One thing I read was that they are a very powerful and active swimmer which undoubtedly is the case with the specimen I purchased. <Yes I swam with these animals on the north shore of Oahu, HI. I'm a near Olympic caliber swimmer and could not hang for long in the rocky tidal zone with these guys, very powerful swimmers indeed capable of great speed.> He loves to swim and shows off his power every now and then in his 250 gallon (7' long) FOWLR tank. <Good size tank.> Other residents include a 4" Longnose Butterfly, 3.5" Chrysurus angel, 3" Chevron tang, 3.5" Orange shoulder tang, and 24" Zebra moray eel. I know for the time being the Naso has enough room, however if the other tangs and angel reach full potential length I will probably move one of the other tangs. <Yes and their may be some potential aggression with the Orange-shoulder tang due to similar appearance and habits.> Question: the Naso goes crazy for the daily feedings of Sea Veggies, Nori, and Seaweed selects (sometimes soaked in Selcon), as well as grazing all day on the 225 lbs. of live rock and substrate. He does not eat however the prepared foods that I feed the other fish in my tank, mainly frozen cubes of Lifeline, Ocean Nutrition's formula one and two, Mysis, as well as Angel formulations. <Well he may still be adjusting so I would not worry just yet. The Nori/sea veggies soaked in Selcon is a great food for this animal so since he's accepting that I am not too concerned. > <<Actually, this animal should be taking in a good deal of meaty foods as well. I would offer him some krill to start, see how he likes that. Marina>> I have also tried flake, Hikari Marine A pellet as well as Ocean Nutrition pellet food. I have tried soaking all of the above choices in Garlic Extreme and at times the Selcon or Zoe to entice with no avail. <Keep trying.> The only prepared food he has eaten (with vigor) is Sweetwater zooplankton. He has only been in the main tank display for one week and was only in QT for one week so maybe he will broaden his range of food, however I wanted to know if the Sweetwater zooplankton is a good enough food along with varied algae sheets if he never adapts to other foods? Any suggestions? <Well he is eating so as I mentioned above, am not to worried just keep offering. I bet he takes to the above food within a week or two, still being a relatively new specimen. The food you have offered is great, especially the nutritional supplements.> <<I would do what the LBAOP does - free feed romaine lettuce (they rubber-band it to a bit of live rock and drop it in the QT tanks, and in the displays use lettuce clips. Marina>> Second question: I recently removed the glass covers from the top of the tank and replaced with light grid (egg crate). I position the crate cover such that the skinny tapered section is facing up and the result was a substantial increase in light intensity in the tank. <How old are the bulbs? What is the Kelvin temperature?> I am trying to do everything I can to eliminate patches of Cyano that keep appearing on the substrate (DSB of fine aragonite). The Cyano has always limited itself to the substrate and I drain the frozen food, run Phosban, Purigen, activated carbon, skimmer is cranked up producing great skimmate, and a 40 watt UV sterilizer cleaned monthly. I also test all top off water (shows .1 Phosphate) and perform weekly 10% water changes with Coralife salt (aged for 1 week). <Where is your source water coming from is this tap or RODI? If it is tap I think that may be why your are getting the phosphate reading, if its RODI how old are your cartridges?> Ammonia/nitrite 0, nitrate 5, Ph 8.4, temperature 81 - 82 F, salinity 1.24, and dKH of 12. I hoped that the intensity of light being increased may help with the Cyano so I removed the tank glass covers. Any other recommendations on helping to remove the few areas of Cyano that are so bothersome. I have positioned the large SEIO powerheads to increase circulation to these areas, to the extent that it visibly moves the sand in these areas, to no avail. I have read all of the FAQ's regarding this and think I am doing the right things. Interesting side note: the sand that I can see under the caves within the live rock are perfectly white with no Cyano, which is perplexing because these areas are not receiving direct light, nor the highest water movement. Any thoughts on this? <Since the Cyano is limited to one area my first though was that these areas lack water movement and are accumulating detritus. I think you made a great move my adding those SEIO powerheads. At this point I would continue as you have with the water changes and I would also siphon these areas during those water changes.> Sorry for such a long email, however I am trying to give all of the pertinent information to help answer the email. <No worries.> Best regards, <And to you too.> Steven <Adam J.> Naso Tang Good day Gents, <I hope> First off, must say 'Love the website', helped me out on many occasions. (Long time reader) <Thank you> I have setup a new tank and am moving all the contents from 4 tanks to go into the new reef tank. New tank is 160G with a 30-40g sump. 1-2 Inch live sand bed with 110 Live rock. Aqua-C EV-240 Skimmer. Tank has been cycling and preparing for 2-3 Months. Have not started moving many corals to the new tank as yet but that will commence this coming weekend. Not sure of all the inhabitants at present but have the following livestock to possible put in. Comet grouper <Will eat smaller fish/shrimp> 3 Banggai Cardinals Purple Tang Long Nose Hawk Fish Scooter blenny Pair of green mandarins <Tank will be too new for these guys, and then I would only go with one unless you are lucky enough to find one that eats Mysis or frozen food.> Visited a LFS and they had a pair of NASO tangs (Male/Female). The male has its streamer and they seem to be inseparable. They look like a mated pair. <tangs do not mate> Would it be okay to have this pair of Naso Tangs in this size tank, <Again, I'd go with one. Your observance of these two tangs being inseparable is a false observance. In small dealer tanks, tangs are thinking more about escape than being compatible. In a larger system such as yours, aggression between the two will more than likely take place.> preferable with the Comet (My favorite fish). They are some of the nicest Nasos I have seen and are plump and eating like champions. They have been at the LFS for 3 weeks. Thanks <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> - Naso Tang Life Span - My fish died over the weekend and I believe it was 8 yrs old. <Am sorry to hear of your loss, but good job keeping it this long.> How long can these fish live? <In the wild, likely two to three times this amount. In captivity... hard to say, too many factors go into its quality of life. I'd say that under ideal circumstances [giant tank, lots of water flow, low competition for food], you could expect at least 15-20 years.> Thanks, John <Cheers, J -- > Sourcing a blonde Naso Do you know where a good place to purchase a healthy blonde Naso tang? <Likely the big etailers of marine livestock... Drs. Foster & Smith, Marine Center...> I thought Hawaii would be the best place if I could order direct. <Can't as far as I know... and I am there very often> To spare the fish from being transported to more than one place. <Good thought> We also have a 10 gal QT tank and wanted to place him in it. We would cover the side of the tank to reduce stress. Is this a big enough tank? and how long should he be in it? Thank you for any help. <Only if this is a very small specimen... Naso species should be quarantined in no smaller than a two foot by one foot long/wide tank... and kept in no smaller than twice this. Bob Fenner> Freshwater Dips: Blackspot disease II 12/29/04 I actually had my security settings too high and it wasn't allowing me to search the site effectively. Not only did I find the information I was looking for but resources that I will return to for years! Thanks so much for compiling and offering all of this insight. <excellent to hear! You are quite welcome> I did a freshwater dip on my Naso tang and am following up with quarantine and malachite green treatment and it already looks much better and is feeding well in the qt tank. I will continue for three weeks in the qt and will then do another dip before returning it to my display tank. Thanks Again! Elizabeth Turner <A good rule of thumb is to release the specimen from QT only after 4 weeks of disease-free symptoms. kindly, Anthony> Naso tang fin disease First,,,, I wish I had found this site sooner, truly a wonderful source of expert opinion. <Our intention> I have a juvenile Naso tang (lituratus) about 5-6 inches in length who for the past 3 months has had a frayed tail and ventral fins (fins look like they were partially eaten away and have a little bit of a rough white exudate on them). <Mmmm, should have "grown back" over this time... if suitable environment (size, tankmates...), nutrition available> He looks great otherwise and eats like a champ. <Eating what? "Breakfast of Champions?"... hopefully substantial amounts of brown, red, green algae...> My local fish store here in Hawaii recommended Melafix for the fin issue. I had stepped up water changes without any change in the fin prior to trying the Melafix. I currently am on day 5 of the MelaFix treatment and wonder if I should finish out the 7 days or stop. Does this sound like Ich and if so what treatment if any would you recommend? <This homeopathic remedy I am NOT a fan of... has a mild anti-microbial effect... NOT useful on protozoan complaints> I have a 125 gallon SW tank, which has been running for 5 months with great water quality. Fish load is light with only a white spotted puffer, squirrel fish, blue damsel, and flame angel. Everyone else looks great. Thanks, Eric <Try bolstering the Nasos diet with soaking it in a vitamin prep. (e.g. Selcon), offering soaked/dried algae with a clip at the water's surface. Bob Fenner> <<Mmm, should have suggested he go collect his own Limu, living in Hawai'i... RMF>>
Compatibility in 60 gal FOWLR Greetings WWM CREW, I am getting a 60 gal (4 feet) fish only with about 15lbs of liverock in the tank and about 20 in the sump. Is this enough for biological filtration? <Yes> I am also using a Via Aqua canister filter 650, a Jebo protein skimmer and a 9 watt ultra violet. Is this filtration pretty ok for a fish only? <With the sump it should be> How much live sand will be good? Can I mix some play sand (the ones made form Caribbean sand) and some Florida live sand? How much of Each? <Please read over these subjects on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com If you want you can use the Google Search tool, or peruse the indices on the Marine root web> Now about the stocking, I always make many lists of different fish etc. (I have a reef tank as well, and another fish only). First of all I'm thinking of putting some large synthetic coral skeletons (white, about 2 with the 15lbs live rock) for decorations and to allow for hiding places, but still a lot of swimming room. For the fish I will start out after the cycling with a yellow tang (which will later be put into my reef) to make sure all is well. <I would NOT cycle the system with a tang> Then for the fish that will stay- a blue hippo, (small one at my LFS probably 2") a yellow lo Foxface (pretty small again 3") then a juv. Naso tang( I know they need large tanks, but my friend has kept on in his 60 for about a year and a half with no problems, probably 4") or can I go even smaller? <Yes... a sturdy fish even at small sizes> I've read on WWM that buying smaller than 4" is not a good idea. Then a threadfin butterfly (3") and a Pakistani (3") (will they get along? what other butterflies will get along better with a threadfin?). <Please read this over on WWM> These will be added over a period of a year, except probably the hippo and Naso- close to the same time for territorial purposes (do they need to be added at the same time or is it ok for different times?). Then my last fish after probably a year I want Juv Passer angel (3"-4") I've read they're probably one of the easiest large angels...should I buy Juv, or adult? <Neither the Passer or Naso will be happy in a sixty gallon> Well these are my hopes for this tank, If it is too overstocked then please let me know which ones will be best to let go (the only fish I really want strongly in this tank is the Naso and threadfin, I can work around the others) This is a total of 18" and in about a year will be 21". That is about 1 inch per 3 gallons. How does this sound? Is they're anyway I can add a another butterfly or pygmy angel if there is space? there is never enough space right? ha-ha) if any other fish then what kind (raccoon, banner....coral beauty, flame???) Oh, an about the Naso ( I really like the distinct coloring of the lips etc....)is the Darker Naso or blonde Naso best for the bright colors and size?) <Again, a four foot long tank is too small for this genus, any N. lituratus. Bob Fenner> Thank you so much Chris Lopez tang with Popeye Hi, <Hi Cindy, MacL here with you tonight. Sorry about the delay I just got this.> We have a Lopez Tang that has what seems to be Popeye in one eye for 3 weeks now. <Poor guy> It is very large and full of bubbles. We have treated him with Epsom salts one time. <Epsom salts work great on Popeye when its from an injury and sometimes will sooth the eye when its a parasite or infection but generally its not going to cure it. After a week of treatment with no response its time to try other things.> He is currently in a 10 gallon quarantine tank. He is getting Maracyn and copper. <You might consider Maracyn two. Of course, ideally if you could get medicated flakes and he would eat them that would be the best.> He is on his fourth day and the eye doesn't seem to be looking any better. Since in the quarantine tank he won't eat which he was acting fine before moving him into the QT tank. <Understood, he's probably not happy about the move!> What else can we do to try and help his eye. The other fish in the home tank are all fine and aren't showing any signs of Popeye. <So many things that could have caused it, but right now the best thing is to get him healthy and try to get him back into his groove. I know people who have had great success with Maracyn two in these situations. Also, Cindy, is he showing signs of parasites? Because if not you really want to dilute that copper as much as you can. It can really effect the internal systems of tangs. Copper can be harsh stuff! How's he doing at this point? Are you seeing anything on him? MacL> Thanks, Cindy Tang With Popeye Thanks for replying back to me. <Scott F. following up> I had to remove the Lopez Tang from the QT tank because he wouldn't eat and he seemed to be dying. He started to lie on his side and the whole time he was in QT he was a black color from stress. <Not an uncommon response for a tang in distress> Once I put him back into the main tank, he started to eat and his color came back to normal. But his eye is still very large with bubbles. Is there anything else we could do? Thanks, Cindy <Unfortunately, I don't believe that I saw your initial email. However, if this Popeye is in just one of his eyes, use of Epsom salt, good water quality, and the passage of time will generally do the trick. Keep a very close eye on this fish to make sure that there is no secondary infection. If this event was caused by a trauma to the eye, chances are that he'll recover with the Epsom salt, high water quality, and a little time, as mentioned above. Additional medicating may not be necessary, and could in fact be harmful if not needed. Observe carefully, and take further action if necessary. Help this is of some assistance... Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Naso With Balance Problems >Dear Crew, >>Hello Allyson. You have Marina today, with my greatest apologies, I've just received your message in my inbox today and I sincerely hope it's not too late. >I love my Naso like a child. We've had him a few years and we bought him when he was approximately 6 inches long. We were stupid. It's too big a fish even for our 125 gallon tank. He belongs in the reef. Our water parameters have been stable for several years but tonight I'll check them again. He's just looking out of sorts. He frequently has a little Ick in the mornings and the cleaner shrimps jump on him and it falls off by the end of the day. He's a fussy eater and will only eat Tetra marine flakes and Caulerpa. He eats these like a pig and the little guy is fat as a house. He still eats OK. There was a period a week ago when we skipped a meal for him (were away for 1 meal-we feed him a lot twice each day by hand). The temperature dropped 3 degrees. Our refugium where we raise Caulerpa and other macroalgae smelled bad and we changed most of the water. It smells fine now. I think the Caulerpa looked a bit unstable at the time but it's not sexual. >>If in doubt, prune it back heavily, being CERTAIN to remove by the full holdfasts, not just breaking off 'leaves'. >During that time, for several days, the fish's yellow face turned dark and he did not swim as actively. He barely ate. We raised the temp to 80 and his face got yellower and he swims and eats more. What is most disturbing is that since that time I see that he has trouble keeping himself upright slightly. It's very slight but he'll swim sideways at times and I see he has his alerting colors on (he gets blotches when he's frightened). >>It seems you're taking the best care of him you can, but I believe he's simply outgrown the system and is displaying the stress (you've made no mention of his current dimensions). This could explain the little bit of ich, the stress coloration, and possibly the 'balance' issues (swim bladder, possibly? Fish have no inner ear). He's definitely not growing old, these animals can live 20 years easily. >He just seems a little clumsier. He doesn't swim as fast or as agilely lately. I'm trying to see if it's worsening but it's inconsistent. He doesn't have any skin lesions and the Ick is very slight and barely and occasionally visible. I've tried hospital tanks with him but the conditions are so unstable in such a small tank, he does worse so I've given up trying to treat the Ick. >>Yes, also, treating him a hospital tank will do no good whatsoever if there are still other vertebrates in the system upon which the parasite can find a host. The only way for hospitalization to be effective is for the main display to go fallow for a minimum of 6 weeks, though this often proves not to be long enough. >I've done searches here and on reef central and I have not seen balance problems listed much. The few times it was with new fish and they died soon after developing it. I'm hoping he gets better and it was just a minor trauma/infection. >>You've listed no water parameters other than the temperature drop (amount), so I can't really offer much other than a guess and a mantra - when in doubt, do a water change. This won't help him at all if the problem is simply that he's outgrown this system, but it will if, in spite of the presence of the 'fuge, there is a buildup of nitrate or other chemicals we cannot measure without a full laboratory at our disposal. Even then, you might want to have an idea of what you're testing for. You haven't mentioned how big the fish is now, but Nasos grow rather large. Water changes on a large scale will not hurt, and can both replenish lost compounds as well as remove buildups of others. >We've also been administering Joes Juice to kill Majano so I wonder if that has something neurotoxic. >>Be VERY careful with that stuff! From what I understand they do not list any ingredients (proprietary?), and I've read many posts on reefs.org of folks losing their shrimps after using Joe's Juice. I have no idea of it has any neurological effect, this is such a new product and few are regulated in any manner. If you were my customer I wouldn't have sold you this product, and I would now suggest you stop using it altogether. >Bottom line, what could cause this? A vitamin deficiency (he won't eat garlic, Selcon, or any other flake or food than that Tetra marine stuff)? >>Garlic won't provide vitamins or nutrition to fish (think about it, how often do fish get their nutrition from garlic in the wild?), but it has been proven to have a slight to moderate antibiotic effect. The food he will accept can be soaked in Selcon prior to feeding, but you MUST be persistent. Also, Nasos do like some meaty foods, have you offered him the irresistible krill? Variety, especially with such a fish, is KEY. He is behaving like a pet poodle, and you'll have to stand your ground when it comes to sampling different foodstuffs. These fish can easily go several days without feeding - if he gets hungry enough, he WILL try it (assuming he's not actually ill, which I don't believe is the case at this point). >A transient parasitic infection (maybe the Ick got in his balance system)? >>Doubtful, I've not read of such mild infestations affecting an animal's balance. If this were a problem you'd see flashing and rapid gilling, not just balance problems. >What scares me is that this might be a buildup in the Caulerpa toxins. >>Possibly, but again, I do doubt this. I didn't have a problem feeding C. taxifolia to my Z. flavescens, Z. scopas, or other tangs for several years. >I give him a little bit each day as a treat. He loves it. (Won't eat any kind of Nori, broccoli, spinach, Sprung's sea veggies, lettuce, spinach, bok choy etc. for greens). >>Again, he will if he's hungry enough, and again, offer him some meaty foods. >I decided to do this because this little guy has so few pleasures in our small tank, at least he should have that. What was the toxin in Caulerpa so I can read about it? >>This I cannot answer, try searching Anthony Calfo's writings (this is off the top of my head), assuming a general Google turns up nothing. >Thanks, Allyson >>You're welcome, Allyson. At this point, my honest assessment is that the fish is demonstrating end result of too small a system. I'm curious as to whether or not this animal has grown the tail 'streamers' for which they're noted, if not, this, along with the other symptoms you mention lead me to this initial conclusion. Marina Naso With Balance Problems - Happy Happy Joy Joy! >Dear Crew, >>Hello Allyson. >Oh happy day! My fish is slowly recovering with just good conditions!!! >>As nature intended. >We raised the temp 3 degrees because we saw that was the major change associated with his poor health. Immediately he looked happier (I think I mentioned this before). >>Yes, you did. >Last night he greeted me at the door like he used to. His swimming is slowly more agile. He continues to eat like a pig and is as fat as a house. >>This is very good news, and remember my mantra! When in Doubt, Do a Water Change! >Untergasser's chart (a book on fish disease) on swim bladder has in his chart on swim bladder a few differentials. At first all I saw was autopsy and I freaked. >>Yeah, well, there's only one way to get a postmortem. >Now that I look at it more closely, the most likely diagnosis, given the outcome, is that wall of the air bladder was hardened and inflamed (treated by raising the water temp by 3 to 5 degrees for 5 days). Alternative diagnoses are pretty grim. >>For a fish who's been in captivity for several years, yes, this is true. >At this point, there are several references to autopsies. The air bladder filled with purulent, bacteria-filled fluid-there are a few other presentations related to bacteria (refers to bacteria treatment chart). >>And treatment would absolutely require use of a hospital system. This *can* be done, but with a large fish it is not an inexpensive proposition. >Cysts are in the wall of the air bladder. Inclusions in the wall of the air bladder (no treatment possible). Protozoans are in the kidney and bloodstream. I discussed more details on Reefcentral, including a summary of Untergasser's bacterial treatment mash. >>Yes, I've just read it. Know this, you can go ahead and hypo the animal for ich, but as I said before, if you don't remove ALL vertebrate life, the ich will not be gone from that system. It's far better at this point to provide best conditions and nutrition. Know also that garlic is only proved effective as a mild antibiotic, empirical evidence claims appetite stimulation. My assertion is that if a fish is given proper quarters, best water quality and nutrition, nature shall do what she does best and the animal(s) will thrive. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3795821#post3795821 <please hyperlink!> Thanks for your thoughtful response. Please spread the word about this rare phenomenon. Allyson >>Through you, we shall! Thanks for the follow-up, too, Allyson. I felt terrible thinking that your message had been sitting and it might have been too late. I am VERY pleased that your pet is back on the road to recovery and a long life. Marina
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