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FAQs on Reef System Operation/Maintenance
24 Related Articles: Reef Maintenance,
Marine System Maintenance,
Reef Set-Up, Refugiums,
Reef Filtration,
Vacations
and Your Systems
Related FAQs: Reef
Maintenance 1, Reef Maintenance 2, Reef
Maintenance 3, Reef Maintenance 4, Reef
Maintenance 5, Reef Maintenance 6, Reef
Maintenance 7, Reef Op. 8, Reef
Op. 9, Reef Op. 10,
Reef Op. 11,
Reef Op. 12, Reef
Op. 13, Reef Op. 14, Reef Op. 15,
Reef Op. 16, Reef Op. 17, Reef Op. 18,
Reef Op. 19, Reef Op 20,
Reef Op. 21,
Reef Op. 22, Reef Op. 23,
&
Marine Maintenance, Reef Systems 1,
Reef Systems 2,
Reef Set-Up 1, Reef Set-Up 2, Reef
Set-Up 3, Reef Set-Up 4, Reef
Set-Up 5, Reef Set-Up 6,
Reef Tanks,
Reef Lighting, Reef
Lighting 2, Reef Filtration, &
Reef Livestocking, Reef
Livestocking 2, Reef Feeding,
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T5HO Lighting confusion... I really need some
help. 10/19/08 Hey guys, <Ivan.> I have exhausted every search term I
could think of trying to find the answer to T5 lighting. I’ve found a lot of
information and I’ve learned a lot, but I’ve also in the process found a lot of
conflicting information. It seems that no matter how many people you talk to or
how many LFSs you go to everyone has something different to say based on their
experiences. <As with every other aspect of aquariums…and life. > What I
need help with is this. I have an 80gal “reef” aquarium. (I put reef in quotes
because I can’t seem to get it to even resemble a reef in the slightest) I
installed a Current USA Nova Extreme 48” T5 retro @ 54Watts x 4 using 1(6700K),
1(18000K), 1(420nm) and 1(460nm) Water param.s: Tank life = 1 year old
Temp = 78 – 79 PH = 8.4 Ammonia = 0 Nitrite = 0 Nitrate = 0
Specific Gravity = 1.026 I use Tropic Marin mix that I buy from my LFS for
10% weekly water changes, 30gal sump with 2 x Mag Drive 1200 pumping up to 4
returns and using a Hydor to create extra circulation in the tank. Also have a
Coral-life Protein Skimmer in the sump. Livestock (1 blue tang, 1 Sailfin tang,
1 Tomini tang, 2 Percs, 1 Mono, 2 Cleaner shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, 1
Crocea Clam, 1 green BTA, 1 ribbon eel in the sump because he ate all my
original Percs( a whole nother story) <This is severely overstocked,
incompatible..> My problem is I can’t keep any kind of coral alive. Pagoda
(comes out more with less light), Xenia(never grows and melts after a few
months), Zoas, Leathers(wilt), Colt coral(Wilt), frogspawn(dissolve),
hammer(dissolve), star polyps(diminished on the top of their rock and started
growing on the underside away from light). Now when I try talking to my LFSs,
one said that my 6700K bulb is not a good spectrum and too bright for corals.
<It is good, perhaps the best bar aesthetics.> But when I search online I
find people saying that 6700K is ok. Others I find say it’s better to have 6700K
to 10000K versus the 18000K that I have because the 18K is too close to the blue
spectrum and does not produce enough usable light along with the 2 actinics that
I have. <True, the 6500 to 10000K is better from a coral heath POV.> Is
there any validity to either of these theories? <Yes.> One of my LFSs says
all my equipment is perfectly fine and that maybe I have traces of copper or
something else toxic to corals. I never use copper for anything so I doubt that
is the culprit. <Have you tested for this? Unless you have used copper, I
doubt this. Some copper is always around, it takes an artificially raised level
to cause issues. Buy a test kit or have one of them test for you.> He also
said I could try turning off my skimmer as it may be removing a lot of the
elements needed for coral growth. <Some corals appreciate “dirty” water, but
I do not think it is the case here.> I don’t know what to do anymore. I’ve
spent so much money and so much time and I really want to make this work, but
I’m getting to the end of my rope. Any thoughts or advice or ANYTHING!!! J
Please help. I hope I’ve given you enough information to at least give me
something. Thank you in advance for any assistance. <You do not have enough
light, these bulbs do need to be replaced with a lower K spectrum bulb to give
your photosynthetic livestock what they need….your Crocea and BTA will follow
suit in time. Also, your corals have likely been affected by allelopathy with
the mix listed. Research on the needs and compatibility of what you have and add
in the future is strongly advised.> Ivan <Scott V.>
Re: Tunze reef excel salt mix
10/6/08
Mr. Fenner,
<Matt>
Thanks for your expert advice, I love your site and read it everyday. The reason
I was asking about reef excel is that I am getting a little older
<Heeee! I'm getting a lot older!>
and do not like the ideal of having to clean the glass on a daily base due to
the green film algae that I seem to always have with the Tropic Marin salt. I
just want to set back and enjoy all my hard work that has gone into my reef
set-ups. So if you or know of a good salt mix that compares to Tropic Marin but
does not have the film algae issues please let me know.
<Don't think it/this is the salt here... likely "just" "recycled" nutrients from
foods. I'd take other avenues... bioaccumulation, transport... maybe assiduous
use of chemical filtrant/s>
I have used IO and s few other salt mixes but seem to always go back to Tropic
Marin.
<Is a mighty fine, consistent product>
I currently have a 90 gallon soft and mushroom coral set up. My other set-up is
a 125 gallon LPS/SPS with two Tridacna clams. The 90 gallon unit has two
Sunlight Tek T5 (HO) light fixtures each with 4 x 54 watt Giesemann T5 (HO)
lamps. The 125 gallon has two Giesemann Reflexx light fixtures, each with 4 x 54
watt lamps. I use Giesemann Powerchrome "Aquablue, midday and one pure actinic
lamp in each set-up.
<Good fixtures>
With this set up I have had orange tube coral (Tubastrea aurea) reproduce into
separate colonies in my LPS/SPS set up. I do a 25% water change every Sunday in
both set-ups and do not add any additives to the tanks.
<Good for you>
In fact my corals grow so fast in both set-ups that I have to sell frags back to
my LFS. There is so much stuff on the internet these days, some of it true and
some of it so very untrue, that one really should seek the advice of a true
expert like yourself or the WWM crew before they just decide one day that they
want to have a marine set-up and go out and jump into the hobby. By the way in
my 125 gallon set up which I have had up and running for five years now, I Have
the following list of fish:
One (1) Copperband butterfly (I have had it for 3 years)
One (1) Blue and Yellow Hippo Tang (I have had it for 2 years)
One (1) Sailfin Tang Desjardini (I have had it for 3 years)
One (1) Yellowstripe Maroon Clownfish (I have had it for 4-1/2 years)
One (1) Court Jester Goby (I have had it for 2 years)
One (1) Green Mandarin (I have had it for 4 years)
One (1) Flameback (African) Angelfish (I have had it for 3-1/2 years)
One (1) Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse (I have had it for 4-1/2 years)
One (1) Scott's Fairy Wrasse (I have had for 1 year)
In the 90 gallon set-up I have the following fish:
One (1) Purple tank (I have it for 1 year)
One (1) Spotted Mandarin (I have had it for 1-1/2 years)
One (1) Clarkii Clownfish (I have had it for 1 year)
One (1) McCosker's Flasher Wrasse (I have had it for 2 years)
My feed all my fish the following:
H20 life frozen fish food, H20 life Aquarium Seaweed, New life Spectrum pellet
fish food, Ocean Nutrition pellet fish food and Nutramar or reef nutrition live
Copepods.
Thanks For all your hard work.
Matt
<Ahh, thank you for sharing input re your success. Bob Fenner>
Re: No Idea What Else To Try...Please
Help! (Just how much rock can you stack in a 180g tank!?) – 10/06/08
Thanks, Eric.
<<Quite welcome>>
I inherited this tank 4 years ago, and was told by the former owner that the
total amount of rock was 400#-500#.
<<Oh...okay>>
I have not purchased any rock since taking over the tank, and have never really
weighed stuff out. I just assumed that the number he gave me was accurate, but
it is not unlikely that the previous owner might have embellished (a very good
possibility with his personality) or overestimated the amount of rock, as it is
not overwhelming for the size of the tank.
<<Ah, I see…then maybe this issue is a bit simpler to resolve than originally
thought>>
There is a substantial amount of swimming room for everyone, so I am guessing
that it is an inaccurate number.
<<Very good… How about water movement…strong vigorous flow?>>
I will switch back to the previous skimmer configuration for now, and see what
happens. I will back water changes off a bit and go after the detritus a bit
more aggressively and see what happens.
<<Sounds good…you should also consider some means of chemical filtration if not
using such already (carbon and/or Poly-Filter)>>
Thanks for your input!
Susan
<<Happy to assist…if things don’t begin to improve with these simple changes,
feel free to come back and we can examine this further. EricR>>
R1: No Idea What Else To Try...Please
Help! (Just how much rock can you stack in a 180g tank!?) – 10/07/08
Hello again, Eric.
<<Hiya Susan!>>
Water movement in the tank is good....
<<Ah good>>
I have two power heads in the tank, each turns over 740-750 GPH. Turnover from
the tank through the sump/fuge is 900-960 GPH. I have polyester filters over the
sponges in the overflow boxes (changed every morning) and an 8"x4" poly filter
in the sump that I change every 3-4 weeks.
<<Okay>>
No carbon at this point; took it out 2 years ago when I got rid of the wet/dry
set up. Do you think I should throw a sack of carbon into the fuge?
<<Wouldn’t hurt in my opinion, I always like to keep a bit of Poly-Filter and
carbon going in my own system>>
Also, do you have any suggestions on a different brand of skimmer?
<<I do!>>
There are many out there, and it always helps to have recommendations when
shopping.
<<Indeed… My current fave is the offerings from Euro-Reef but AquaC also
produces a very good product. Other choices would include H&S, Tunze, and Deltec
skimmers. I would prefer to see you save up for one of these top-of-the-line
skimmers, but if money is truly an issue, then perhaps a skimmer from ASM or
Octopus will be a good choice. As for sizing the skimmer, you can go with
manufacturer recommendations (especially with the Euro-Reef or AquaC lines), but
I like to suggest getting “the next larger size” when budget and space allows as
I believe many of the manufacturers tend to overate their product (as is the
case with your current skimmer)>>
Thanks again for the input!!
Susan
<<My pleasure to assist. Eric Russell>>
P.S. Going back to your reply to my first email....you mentioned the uncommon
nature and typically high price of the Bariene Tang.....he happens to be the
best bargain in my tank!
<<Oh?>>
Occasionally I stop into the local Mom & Pop fish store here in Podunk (just to
see what they have), but rarely buy anything, as I try to buy livestock from the
same source.
<<A good practice, as this gives you opportunity to develop a relationship and
get to know your provider and their supplier>>
I stopped about 3 years ago and found this fish, then about 4" long, priced at
$27.
<<Wow! A $150.00 fish for $27.00…not bad…and perhaps some insight to the markup
on this “very common” uncommon find>>
It took only seconds to make the decision on that one!
<<Indeed>>
Thanks again for your help and input!!!
<<You know where to find me. EricR>>
Microbubbles and no skimmate... Mmm,
skimmer op. f' 10/1/08
Good Afternoon,
<Hi there>
First and foremost, I would like to thank you, Mr. Fenner, and the WWM Crew for
taking the time to answer all of the questions and for building such an
informative site. I will apologize for the length of this letter beforehand. I
have a couple problems. First, my skimmer is producing nothing other than a
green tea colored liquid;
<Mmm... either needs adjustment or is "just" not a very efficient make/model>
secondly, I have a large amount of microbubbles or microparticles that are
making the tank cloudy.
<No fun>
I have a 125-gallon tank that I started in January of this year. I added 175
pounds of live rock and a ½-inch of fine aragonite sand. This is where I made
the first of several mistakes. I knew the rock needed to cure and had planned to
do so in the tank. I placed the rock in the tank with a CPR Bak-Pak 2 Skimmer,
three powerheads and an Emperor 400 BIO-Wheel. I obviously did not understand
the difference between curing and cycling.
<Yikes! What a mess>
I failed to do water changes and the ammonia level climbed off the charts. At
the highest possible placement of the collection cup, the skimmer failed to
produce anything other than the tea colored liquid. I am sure you can imagine
what happened, no living creatures on the live rock from the ammonia. The live
rock had a lot of coralline (which bleached), but I never experienced the foul
odor during curing that I have read about here.
<You're fortunate t/here>
The tank completed its cycle in about three weeks. I had all the undesirable
effects, such as the diatom bloom. I had initially used tap water to fill the
tank, which I now realize was another mistake. I eventually developed the
dreaded Cyanobacteria. I added an RO system, and it had little effect on the
Cyanobacteria. I had my water tested by a water quality firm and found that the
tap water contained 600 ppm of total dissolve solids.
<We actually have more here in most of San Diego... and call our source water
"liquid rock">
The RO water contained 30 ppm
<Mmmm>
so I added a DI filter to the system and lowered the TDS to 0. The CPR skimmer
has never made much skimmate and as earlier mentioned, it was nothing other than
a tea color. I finally defeated the Cyanobacteria problem with a great deal of
water changes.
<You must be getting the ahms of AhnoldS!>
I had also read that dripping Kalkwasser with an IV would precipitate the
phosphates, which I believe that I have, but have always tested zero. I believed
the skimmer was producing the microbubbles, so I upgraded to an AquaC Remora Pro
with a bubble trap,
<Ah! Very good>
but I continue to have little skimmate production. I have even talked with Steve
at AquaC; he suggested that maybe the bioload was too light.
<A possibility>
I have now had another outbreak with Cyanobacteria. I know there is a lot of
organic matter in the water,
<But... "something" missing>
since the Emperor filter cartridges become extremely dirty in a short amount of
time. I have also dripped Kalkwasser over several days to raise the pH to 8.6 to
precipitate the phosphates. I have now added a poly filter along with
Chemi-Pure.
<Worth trying>
The Cyanobacteria is still present and I siphon it out every few days. I will
disappear within an hour of "lights-out" and come back vigorously within an hour
of "lights on." I know this is not light dependant and is a result of high
organics in the water. I also have a green algae that grows on the back glass
(not sure if it is also related to the Cyanobacteria or not) but its texture
appears to be more slime-like. The coralline grows well on the rocks but when it
forms on the glass, it grows to the size of a dime, then develops a small hole
in the middle, and completely disappears within a few days.
The microbubbles are not only very aesthetically displeasing but as you are
quite aware can be dangerous to the livestock. I have tested the equipment that
I have by have shutting everything off for 12 hours, but there continues to be
microbubbles or microparticles in the water column, they never settle out or
rise to the top. Sometimes it almost appears that they are coming from the
substrate and appear to get worse the longer the lights are on.
<Yes... I know of the sort of thing you are experiencing... and a safe, easy
"cure">
Again, I apologize for the length but I am out of things to try. I also placed a
HOB magnum with a micro cartridge and ran this for a month to make sure it was
not just particulate matter and it appeared that this made no difference either.
Not sure if this matters or not but in the beginning I had to add massive
amounts of calcium because it kept dropping into the 250 range, I was also
adding Purple up.
<Mmmm>
After reading on your site, I stopped all the supplements other than Kent Super
Buffer for my water. The calcium has remained steady in the 400 range with no
additives for several months now. I am just wondering are these microbubbles the
bi-product of the Cyanobacteria or some other type of bacterial infection. Up
until about two weeks ago, my pH fluctuated to the extremes 8.1 to 8.6 it was as
if the BGA was controlling this to its own satisfaction.
<Good guess>
Calcium and DKH remained at acceptable levels and pH would be 8.1 one day and
8.6 the next with no additives. I first thought it was the pH meter, which is a
pinpoint, but after having it checked and calibrated there was no problem with
the equipment.
125-gallon aquarium (not drilled)
pH 8.1 to 8.3
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 20
DKH 11
Calcium 400
Temperature 79 (very stable)
Phosphates 0 (tank and RO water)
Lights PC (4) 96 watt (on for 12 hrs)
(3) Powerheads
AquaC Skimmer (Rio 1400)
UV (used for 1 month with no results so I removed)
Emperor BIO-Wheel (change filters weekly)
I have added phosphate remover and ChemiPure in the last month
I use no additives other than Kent Superbuffer for make-up water
I have done 10-gallon water changes weekly. I also only feed Ocean Nutrition
flakes and seaweed for the Tangs. I am positive I am not overfeeding.
Livestock
(1) Yellow Hawaiian Tang
(1) Flame Hawkfish
(2) True Percula Clowns
(3) Green Chromis
(1) Watchman Goby
(1) Sailfin Blenny
(1) Foxface
(1) Kole Tang
(2) Brittle Stars
(3) Firefish Gobies
(2) Cleaner Shrimp
(1) Flame Scallop (came with cleaner crew)
Pulsating Xenia (grown to three separate large colonies)
(1) Frogspawn (3 heads)
Several mushrooms
Several button polyps
(1) White Pom Pom Xenia
Cleaner crew mixed snails and hermits
Thanks for all your assistance,
Roger
<Now... I am going to try my best at an effort of sleight of hand here...
suggesting actions w/o much (or any really) explanation of causative mechanisms.
IF you will try adding a bit (abundance of a lacking essential nutrient) of
carbon here... in the form of ethanol (Vodka will do) or "simple" sugar
(pentoses, hexoses), you will very likely find a "miraculous" turning about of
your system... Either a half ounce of the C2H5OH... OR a couple grams of the
sugar (dissolved in some water), every other day for three, four treatments...
And please do write me back in a week or so and we'll chat re... Not to be or
appear disingenuous, I don't want/intend to encourage others carte blanche to
try this. Your situation however... is apropos. Bob Fenner>
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