More Profits For LFS Through Lack Of Research - 01/23/2006
Hello Prestigious WWM Crew,
<Hmm...Hopefully the opprobrious Josh will do ;)>
I have learned quite a bit from your site and have done hours of productive reading here thanks by the way!) but need to once again draw upon your wisdom-in other words, help! *g*
<Or, perhaps those "hours" have been spent in the wrong places. The pictures sure are pretty though:)>
I have a 72 gallon bowfront saltwater setup. It has been established for about three months now after having successfully cycled. I have a Fish only tank with aragonite/crushed coral/live sand substrate mix. A refugium. Plenty of water flow. No LR. My LFS suggested using damsels to cycle the tank (which I did, although I probably would have preferred using LR instead) and two of the domino damsels survived the cycling and are now thriving in the tank.
<Wait a second...I thought you said "hours" reading. The LFS is still running your ball game?>
They have grown to about three inches long. My plan was to return them to the LFS when I was ready to add the permanent inhabitants. Other residents are two Turbo snails, two red-legged hermit crabs, and two Bumblebee snails.
<Bumblebees like a fine, DSB in which to burrow from time to time.>
The snails are very active on the glass but were not taking care of the dusting of light brown algae I was getting on the substrate.
<Sounds like diatoms. The Bumblebees would help this, but they probably don't like the substrate.>
The water chemistry is perfect and I have now decreased the number of hours per day the lights are on to help reduce the brown algae growth as well.  
<Are you sure you meant "hours"? No params. for us? Reducing your light cycle?>
I mentioned this to the LFS a few days ago when I went in to get some R/O water and they said I should get some sand sifting gobies to help take care of this algae problem. They sold me two three inch long "dragon" gobies.
<Cha-ching$$! Are you sure these aren't Dragonets? How's that song go..."And another one bites the dust!">
They are very entertaining but the damsels seem to chase them a lot.
<Too aggressive.>
The LFS said they could co-exist.
<Cha-...Oh forget it.>
I want to establish a colorful, peaceful community tank.
<Not off to a good start with the Damsels.>
My questions are: What kinds of fish do you recommend in this setup? Should the damsels go back to the LFS for the sake of the gobies? They are aggressive eaters and I am afraid the gobies will starve. Did the LFS give me the right advice?
<Here's the question of the hour! No.>
They also suggested that flame angels could be compatible in this tank, but I am worried about any fish with these damsels.
<Was that "Angels" as in plural!?>
Last question, how else can I get rid of the brown algae? I scrape, vacuum, do water changes regularly, now use R/O water for changing and top offs, and reduce hours on the compact fluorescent light. What else can I do?
<Re-visit our FAQ's re all of these. Covered many times over. You could keep the Damsels for now for something to look at (a motivator). I would return the other fish for their best interest here. Study up before returning to this store!>
Thanks for your time and your patience! I appreciate it!
MW
<Gladly. Now just apply your time/patience. Avoid more poor advice. - Josh>

Greetings From The Maldives...Bare-Bones Reefing - 01/18/06
Hi crew,
<<Hi!>>
I admire you all a lot, since you have been the driving force to try and try, without your valuable information, I would have already given up now.
<<We're glad you've found it/us useful.>>
By the way, I'm from the Maldives, where corals and fishes are plenty which I have to dive and take,
<<Lucky you>>
and the equipments are scarce.
<<Maybe not so bad as you think.>>
I have been trying in this hobby for sometime,
<<Me too! <grin>.>>
but the lack of equipment and gear to have a successful reef system has let me down.
<<?>>
Well so I have a few questions I need to find some answers, which I'm confident I will get from you guys.
<<Uh oh...pressure...>>
First of all, I use seawater which is the only resource, so here is my first question, I've heard that seawater gets toxic very quickly after taking, so how will I succeed using seawater?  And for my water changes, can I store seawater, or take seawater and change as quickly as possible without storing.
<<I suspect what you’re referring to is the massive die-off of life within the water that occurs soon after it is collected.  Try treating the water after it has been collected with a small amount of bleach...this will kill the biota (which by the way, includes any possible parasites, etc.) and allow it to fall to the bottom of the container.  Decant/drain the clear water from the container, treat with chlorine remover, and filter with carbon. This water can be stored in a covered (dark) container with an air stone for a week or so (maybe longer) for convenience.  If possible, test the water and buffer as needed.>>
The second question is, what’s the best water I can substitute for reverse osmosis when it comes to top-up.  It's impossible to get a reverse osmosis unit here, and someone said distilled water is the next best choice, and it's even very expensive, coz my tank evaporates like 3 litres a day, I've been using tap water but I just can't tolerate with the algae bloom.  So can I use rainwater instead?
<<Mmm...maybe...will depend much I believe on how polluted the air is from industry, automobile exhausts, etc...to be carried/pulled back down.  Is worth a try I think...do prefilter with carbon and buffer before use.>>
And since I don’t have a chiller, can I manage with fans?  My tank temp is 29 in mid day without the AC on, but my room is most of the time air conditioned, and it goes as low as 26-27 average, so will this fluctuation be dangerous?  And can I keep zoanthids, leather corals and some soft corals in this high temp?
<<While at the high end in my opinion, you're temp is within tolerable limits.  Fans will help to bring down/provide some room for error so yes, employ some fans for evaporative cooling and to help stabilize temperature swings.>>
In my experience its not that much effecting?  Why is that, maybe it's from tropic?
<<Yes>>
So I hope you will help me solve these questions, and give me solutions with the resources available to mein mind.  Coz I don’t wanna just take those corals, if I'm not going to keep them healthy, though its plenty in my backyard.
Thank you Ximan
<<Thank you for your interest/concern.  Regards, EricR>>

New to the Marine Hobby and Being Polite   1/17/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hi Cindy!>
First, thank you for all the great information.  I am researching, reading, learning as fast as possible.  
<Awesome.>
Since I needed something to do with my "spare" time after caring for 6 kids,
<You have spare time with six kids….I go crazy when my little bro comes to visit.>
I agreed to take in an orphaned 29 gallon reef aquarium. I previously had a 55
gallon FW aquarium and had an inkling of what would be required in maintenance and cost.  
<Okay.>
Thank goodness, I found your site!  I have been burning the midnight oil researching, reading, and learning.  
<I’m glad you found us too.>
I am trying to be a conscientious aquarist and upgrade this tank as finances permit.  Here is the current set-up:
29 gallon standard aquarium, established for 1 year
20 lbs live rock, crushed coral substrate, 1-2 inches in depth
<How coarse is the crush coral? If you go the crushed (coarse) coral route rather than sand, you need to have 1” or less and siphon/vacuum it weekly. A 2” Crushed Coral bed will trap detritus and give you nutrient problems.>
Emperor 280 bio wheel filter,
<Good for water movement and running of carbon when necessary but not an ideal piece of equipment to use as the sole filtration on a marine aquarium. You have live rock, which is great for nitrifying bacteria but I would also add a protein skimmer to the mix, such as the Aqua-C Remora. Until you can get a skimmer perform 25% water changes weekly.>
Orbit PC light fixture-2 65 watt, daylight/actinic and lunar lights, this is
a recent upgrade from 20 watt standard fixture that was on the tank.
<Sounds good.>
I am slowly acclimating everyone to the new lighting using layers of dense window screen.)
<Good method.>
This tank came with green and brown algae growing on the rocks, substrate,
glass, etc.  I am in the process (I hope) of reducing it with addition of
Lawnmower Blenny, snails, and crabs and improved lighting.
<Algae is also fuelled by nitrates, phosphates and nutrients in general. The protein skimmer will help with this as will a good water change regime.>
1 perc clown- 2 1/2"
1 royal Gramma 2"
<The above two are good choices.>
1 lawnmower blenny 3"
<This choice may be fine now but, have seen this specimen at 6” in length. Your current set-up is to small for an adult. I would consider trading him in for a smaller species of blenny such as a bi-color.>
2 tiny cardinal gobies
2 turbo snails
<Get quite large and clumsy.>
10 margarita snails
<A little much.>
12 dwarf crabs
<Ditto.>
6 mushrooms, which are green and purple
1 colony of polyps
<Sounds Okay.>
I don't plan to add anymore fish
<Good.>
, since I think I am at capacity, but could I add another polyp?
<Once the tank has stabilized, yes some hardy colonial polyps, such as Zoanthus would be a good choice.>
pH- 8.2,  ammonia .25 ppm, nitrite 0, nitrate 10 ppm,  specific gravity- 1.024, temp.-76,  
<The nitrates while not at an obscene amount currently, are not ideal. I would utilize larger water changes. Since you are going to be keeping invertebrates you’ll want to also get a phosphate, calcium and alkalinity test kit at the least.>
I do weekly water changes of 5-6 gallons and add Coral-Vite.  
<Not a fan of the last product but it shouldn’t hurt anything either. Are you using anything to maintain calcium levels yet?>
I would like to provide the best environment possible so I am willing to sell
plasma, hock my wedding ring, etc to make necessary improvements.
<Hehe, you’re worse than me.>
Would you be so kind as to look over my list and see if this would be a logical step by
step improvement.
<Am doing so.>
The Conscientious Marine Aquarist & Coral Propagation books,
<Great books.>
battery back up system
2 power heads-with the intakes filtered
additional live rock-(have to find somewhere to cure this that will be safe from a 2 yr old)
<Ahh yes.>
hang on protein skimmer
<Good this one is IMPORTANT!>
I KNOW I need to acquire a QT tank and will do so as quickly as possible without arousing the suspicions of my husband.  
<I understand.>
It is one matter to slip in a new rock, or power head.  Another tank is definitely going to attract attention
and may cause him to wonder if I am borrowing from the grocery budget again.
<I’m sure you can think of some colorful way to explain things, I always do.>
I placed this tank in my bedroom to insure that the 2 year old would not have access to it unsupervised.
<Sounds good.>
  Now, I wake up in the morning to find kids sitting on the edge of my bed peering into the tank.  We are all hooked!  
<Very enjoyable hobby.>
Thank you
for all your help and I promise not to bother you again for a while.  
<No bother at all, please respond to this email if anything I have said confuses you or gives way to more in depth questions. Is quite enjoyable to answer well thought out and polite queries such as this one.>
Cindy  
<Adam Jackson.>

Re: More Questions and My Humour - or Lack there Of.   1/18/06
Adam,
<Hello again!>
Thank you for your patience and helpful suggestions.  First, regarding the
"spare" time I am devoting to this relaxing hobby, spare is entirely tongue in cheek.   
<Oh I know, my comments were meant as such too. I'm into sarcastic dry humour....I know it doesn't always come across directly/correctly.>
I make no claims as to the state of my sanity.   
<Oh yes, me and my girlfriend baby-sat her 2 year old sister for 3 hours, needless to say I was ready to jump off the PV cliffs.>
I have noticed the crushed coral is a problem.
<Yes.>
I have been vacuuming it weekly and will continue to do so.  
<Good.>
Should I consider replacing it with sand or just make sure the depth is no greater than 1" and vacuum it weekly?  
<I would rather have a less coarse media like sand.>
I will order the skimmer you recommended this week and the testing kits.
(There goes the grocery budget)
<Tell your husband I'm sorry, hehe.>
I really hate to part with Rocky the lawnmower blenny, hopefully I can trade
him in at LFS, otherwise I will have to buy a larger tank to accommodate him :)
<I like the latter...of course I always want another tank.>
Thank you and the entire WWM crew for all the great information.
<Thank you for the kind words.>
Cindy
<Adam J.>

Wholesale (Reef System) changes 01-10-06
Hi all,
<David>
First and foremost I would like to say THANK YOU for all that you do for this hobby and those of us that
are less informed.  Thank you, thank you, thank you. I hope that the yelled thanks doesn't put me on the
'bad guy' email list or anything :D.  Anyway, I am thinking of making some big changes to my system after
reading Mr. Fenner's book and everyone else's advice on WWM.  Before I ask any questions, however, I would like to give you my system specs:
<Always a great place to start...>
Setup
-75 gal Oceanic (not so-reef ready) FOWLR system (with
one bunch of green star polyps).  Tank has 1 corner
overflow with 1" drain (Durso Standpipe) and, I
believe, a 3/4" return from 10 gal sump.
-about 55# LR (if I remember correctly)
-between .5 and 2.5 inches of crushed coral substrate
depending on where in the tank you measure
-130 watts of full spectrum & 130 watts of actinic
(all PC).  The actinics run 14 hrs; the full specs' 12.
-Rio 2100 pumping back at ~4ft head
-Backpack Skimmer (producing about 1 cupful of
skimmate /week)
-1 250 watt heater
Livestock
-An Orchid Dottyback
-A PJ Cardinalfish
-A Falco Hawkfish
-A Coral Beauty Angelfish
-A B&W Clownfish
-2 Yellow-tailed Blue Damselfish
-A Longspined Black Urchin
-A Sally Lightfoot Crab
-A Green Brittle Star (yes, I'm aware of the problems
this guy might cause, just haven't been able to 'fish'
him out yet)
-A Decorator Crab (genus/species unknown
unfortunately)
-3 Turbo Snails
-4 Astrea Snails
-Quite a bit of coralline and green hair algae
-Just a bit of Cyano
Parameters
-Nitrates: 5 - 15 ppm
-Salinity: 1.023
-dKH: 6
-Calcium: 380 ppm
-pH: 8.0
-Temp: 79 F
-Water changes vary.  I average a 10% change a month.
<You may want to increase amount or frequency of changes to lower your nitrates.>
First, I would like to run by my proposed changes and see if you see any hiccups.  I would like to change my substrate to a 5" bed of Reef Ready Aragonite sand.  I
plan on emptying my tank into buckets with a tub for the LR and a tub for the critters that will both be
heated, lit, and circulated by power heads (just the circ done by the powerheads :D).  I then plan on
moving the crushed coral to a new 30 gal sump that I bought to replace the undersized sump I currently use.
I will then add the sand bed to the tank, refill it partially with the old water, restack the rock, and
finish refilling the tank.  <I would place the sand then place a garbage bag over the sand. You then fill the tank with water, adding the live rock last. This method keeps water clouding to a minimum.> At this time I will also add a new pump (something in the range of 1200 gph at
4 ft head before discounts for bends, elbows etc.) After letting that run about a week, I plan on
removing the crushed coral from the sump.  In it's place I will put down a .5-1" bed of sand, some LR,
and some macro algae.  At this point I will light the sump on a cycle reverse of the main tank.  What do you
think? <Sounds good, but I will address your crushed coral below.>
Here are my questions.
1. As far as I can read, throughout the net and on your website, my overflow will not handle the flow I
am about to give the tank.  <You are correct.> The return will be a 4-6
outlet manifold with flexible PVC for positioning of the water flow.  I believe that I have 2 viable
options here.  The first would be to convert the original return to a Durso style drain and have them
both feed the sump.  <They still will not be able to handle the flow.> The second would be to add a
siphon-'esque return out of the overflow box to the new pump in a closed loop fashion.  I don't see any
danger in flooding as the 'siphon' would be running directly down into the pump.  There would be the
chance of burning out the pump if the water dropped down far enough in the overflow.  If I went with the
closed loop idea I could still utilize the Rio on the original return but if it failed, I would lose all of
the water out of my tank (presumably all over my floor) to the point where the new pump started sucking
air.  Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions? <This idea sounds far to risky to me. I suggest having a dedicated return pump, your sump will also benefit from a slower flow. A dedicated pump for the closed loop will allow you to keep it cranked up without having to worry about the sump. You will also benefit by not having your whole tank shut down if you lose one pump.> Drilling new
holes is out of the question. <No drilling required, the closed loop can be designed to go over the back of the tank.>
2. The whole point of moving the crushed coral to the sump for a week would be to help seed the sand a bit. Do you think this will help?  <Yes> Is it worth the effort
or would I be better off skipping that step? <I would suggest setting up the sump as you plan to run it from the beginning.  You can seed the sand bed by placing crushed coral in containers or filter socks and placing them in the sump and tank. The useful critters will spread from there.>
3. I am also looking at buying a live sand activator such as Garf Grunge.  Do you think the addition of sand from another system or  a product such as this
will help improve/diversify the micro-critters that I already have in the tank?  <Yes> Would it be worth the
investment? <Yes, unless you have local reefers that could give you some established sand.>
4.  With the hair algae/Cyano issues that I currently have, I believe from what I have read that the DSB
will take care of them.  Should I still consider getting some sort of Reef Janitor package?
<You will benefit from a Janitor package and you will want to buy sand "critters". It is extremely important to keep your sand bed well stocked with beneficial organisms, such as worms, or it will solidify and die.>
Sorry for such a long email, but I want to be certain that I am doing this right.  I have a long term hope for a reef tank and I highly value everyone's opinion.
<It is always a pleasure to work with someone that is planning ahead instead of asking how to fix a mistake due to improper planning. Travis>
Thanks again,
David

Re: wholesale changes Part2  01-11-06
Travis,
<David>
Thanks for your quick response!  Do you have a preference on sand "critters" to keep the bed live?
<To be honest I am not a DSB guy myself. Hopefully someone else will see this and add a note. A great place to start your journey would be right here on this site, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm . Another helpful piece would be, get a copy of Dr. Ron Shimek's book on DSB's. Travis>
Thanks,
David

Scorps and Nitrates: Marathon of Questions   1/11/06
Dear WWM crew,
<Garen>
    I have been looking through this site constantly and thoroughly in an effort to answer my questions without having to bother you all, but unfortunately I am not confident enough in the conclusions that I have come to and need reassurance.
<Okay>
    I have what I think to be a 4.5" diabolus scorpion,
<Neat... Not often seen in the trade>
2" fuzzy lion, a 2" Lowfin scorpion,
<Small!>
4.5" maroon clown with his BTA buddy, tiny 8" chainlink moray and a 3.5" honeycomb grouper.
<... all in the same system?>
I will put these guys in a 46 bowfront
<Way too small...>
with 1x175 what 14K metal halide and 2x24" VHOs and 20 lbs of Live Rock (I have 200 lbs at my disposal, so please tell me if I should add more) with a 29 gallon sump/wet dry/refugium underneath.  I am going to skim this setup with Turboflotor 1000 with a Oceanrunner 2500 pump.  Would you suggest using a plenum in this setup?
<If you have the inclination... in the sump, yes>
If so, should I use it in the refugium inside the sump or should I do it in the 46 gallon display tank?
<The former>
Is it okay to put different kinds of macroalgae and 15 coquina clams in the refugium in order to control nitrates.  Would an 18 watt PC light be sufficient for the refugium?
<Yes, and yes, but barely adequate.>
    See, nitrates have always been my big problem and I want to get them below 15ppm.
<You need, will need a much larger system to do this... with this livestock list>
  I had to bring all of my fish home over winter break (from college) and the tank water was mostly new.  Poor planning on my part.  My system just cycled and while the ammonia just recently dropped below .25 (nitrites never rose above 0.0), the nitrates are ridiculously high at 80ppm.  I have macroalgae in the sump but no lights over it yet and the nitrates haven't budged.  Is lack of proper lighting the reason why the macro isn't utilizing the nitrates?  
<One of them, yes>
    I am looking at building an 6' tall/ 8" diameter skimmer that is listed on "Snailman's Reef" in the DIY section (http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/snailmandiy.htm).  Have you ever seen/heard about his DIY skimmers?
<Oh, yes. Posted on WWM...>
If so, what is your opinion?  Anything that you would modify on this design?
    <Make it larger>
    Ideally I would like to use my crappy Seaclone 150/Turboflotor 1000/6'tall-8"dia. DIY Venturi skimmer to skim my 46 bow and 55 gallon FOWLR tanks.  The 55 gallon has a 5" niger trigger, 4" humu trigger, 16" white eye moray eel, and possibly a 6" longhorn cowfish.
<Also needs to be much larger>
Is that enough skimming for this collective bioload?
<Not hardly>
If my Humu's old best buddy was a 5" dogface puffer (he passed away), would it be safe to assume that I could trust him with the 6" longhorn cowfish?
<Not IMO/E>
I am concerned about the cowfish being nipped on his fins and tail.  
<Me too... and it subsequently taking out the tank>
The cowfish has a serious attitude problem and likes to pick on my scorpions so I can't trust him with them in the 46 gallon tank.  The humu also has an attitude and has a killed a 3" Webb burr puffer before by attacking its gill and pectoral fin.  He's a clown trigger in a Humu's clothing!
<Heeee!>
When I move the humu, niger, white eye moray, and cowfish (?) back up to school into the 55 gallon tank, in order to prevent fighting, should I put one in the tank before the other or acclimate all at the same time?
<Better to either trade most all in, or plan... oh, I see this directly below>
BTW I am going to be picking up a 75 or 90 gallon aquarium in order to replace the 55 within the next 3 months.  Gotta keep the Cowfish Happy!
Thank you,
Garen Wright
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

125 reef  - 01/09/2006
Bob, <James today and thank you for the compliment.>First off great website. I could not imagine doing this hobby without
your help. I have so many things to learn,<Yes indeed> but I am reading and making some
progress. I have not been able to e-mail you guys through my server so I hope you don't mind me going right to the source.  My system is a mixed reef with a
good many corals. Toadstool, colt, couple of leathers, couple of large mushroom colonies, one brain, one bubble, one plate, one star polyp colony, one
Crocea 6 inch clam, one yellow and one sailfin tang, One small percula clown, one velvet damsel, one three stripe damsel,560 watts of compact
fluorescent lighting 50/50 actinic and 10k, 200 lbs of live rock 29 gal refugium with 4 inches of sand, rather large piece of Chaeto 12 inches in
diameter or so. My main concern is nitrates, I found out that the test kits I have been using (red sea) were inaccurate false zero readings. I now have
Salifert kits and have around 20 ppm nitrate. I have been doing 10 gallon water changes every three days for 10 days. My nitrates have been starting to
go down. I am also in the process of removing the bioballs but am going slowly <good> because my skimmers are not so great. I have two SeaClone 150s running
24/7 and they are making skimmate. About two cups per week. I have modified the SeaClones and they do work somewhat.  I am saving for a AquaC 180 sump
model, should be installed within the next three weeks. Just got a RO unit and have been using for about ten days. Alk stays around 10 dKH and calcium
around 420ppm. I vacuum every water change.<Good practice> Can I remove the rest of the bioballs in my sump before I get a real skimmer. <Yes, but do it slowly, 10-15% weekly.> Brown algae on the glass is driving me nuts. What do you think about poly filters for nitrate. <They do remove impurities that lead to nitrates.> I am using
phosphate removing filer media. I clean the media every couple of days and change a couple oz.s of carbon on a weekly basis. Tank has been running two
years plus I am having fairly good results but understand that I must get this nitrate problem under control.  Any ideas or suggestions??? I am using
instant ocean salt. <The Poly Filter will remove phosphate. Read here.  http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/polyprod.htm.  If using this, no real need to use carbon or phosphate removing media unless your phosphates have skyrocketed.  I'll post a link on nitrate control.  In the future do search the Wet Web Media as most all your questions will be answered here.  Do follow "Tips for sending queries" found on the WWM.  Most importantly you need to do a spelling/grammar check as your query was loaded with errors.  We must  correct errors before we can post on the daily FAQ's and we just don't have the time to do this.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
Thanks in advance for any help. <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Mark G

Re: Yellow water  - 01/09/2006
Thanks for the advice James, <You're welcome>
While my dealer said it is a carpet anemone, it looks more like a bubble
tip, specifically a  Delicate Sea Anemone judging from photos from the link
you gave me! <OK>I think my dealer is a little retarded! How can these people own these shops and not know what they are selling...<Happens all the time.>
Do you think my fish and anemone will survive the treatment? <I can't answer that, too many variables.> I have a blue tang, two false clowns, a canary wrasse, six line wrasse and three Chromis...<Part of your problem comes from overcrowding.  A 40 gallon tank is not large enough for the blue tang, realizing it may be small now, but tangs DO like lots of swimming room. Without the tang you are pretty close to full stocking level.>
What kind of carbon should I use? Can you suggest anything in particular? <I'd go with Chemi-Pure or a Poly Filter.>
Will I need to remove the medication ASAP to prevent death? I'm not clear on
this matter? <Joe, fish don't like taking medication any more than we do and that is why we need to quarantine fish and/or treat the infected fish only.  Medicating healthy fish just lowers their immune system which is low to begin with.  If you can't transfer this tang to a separate (QT) tank, I'd still carbon the tank.  You can always net the tang and try a freshwater dip.  I'll post links on this and quarantine set up.  In the future do search the Wet Web as most of your questions will be answered here.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm   <Good luck, James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks for the advice <You're welcome, and Joe, might be a good time to look for another dealer>
Joe

Re: Replacing Sand, Building Depth Back Up - 01/06/2006
I think patience is the most important element in this hobby.
<If not, it's hard to argue.>
I'm trying to take it slow and understand why problems (algae) happen so I can steer clear of them in the future.
<Even better, you can then form your own opinions on the best course of action to take as it relates to your system!>
I can see I have several things to improve on.
<As they say "Admitting you have a problem...">
I want to go home right now and start................... take out the old carbon and add new, start aerating my water, get that buffer Etc...............but I'm stuck at work with all these monkeys!!!
<Hey! Behind you! I don't think that's a banana!>
I know what'll be doing this weekend!!!!!!!!!!!
<Too much more of this, and you'll be in school again;)>
Thanks again Josh.  Hopefully the next time I write you, it will be about the sequence of putting different fish species into the tank!!
<With your current outlook, I'm sure it will be (be careful though, this want to know/understand thing is all consuming...Look where it got me)! Stocking order can be found within our FAQ's on each, so review there, prepare what ever questions you still have, and we'll be happy to help. - Josh>

Re: Replacing Sand, Building Depth Back Up - 01/08/2006
Me again :) Sorry Josh, I just keep thinking of more things to ask.
<No worries. If you didn't, you wouldn't be thinking hard enough.>
You don't happen to live near Sacramento California, do you.
<Nope. Just outside of Athens, GA. Though if I hear "Go Dawgs!" one more time I may be tempted to move.>
I'd have you over for dinner and drill you on everything you know about saltwater tanks!!
<Would be well worth the trade! Others on the crew live near there and could easily put me to shame.>
Ok...here I go...
Do I need to add carbon at all? I basically was using the filter for water agitation at the surface. That thing is kind of pain to take apart all the time.
<Hmm...one of those personal choice things there. Could get by without, just keep up the a good water prep./change schedule. Use powerheads for all water movement in the tank. Are you using a sump? Skimmer?>
I'm not sure what you mean by using 2-3 different bags...Do I
throw away the old bag and put in a new one?
<Sorry. Carbon would still have the same effective life and need to be discarded eventually. Alternating bags, reduces the full abuse one would have to take, and keeps carbon running when you have to clean it. Once or twice a week, pull the one to be cleaned and replace with one that's on standby.>  
Actually my pH readings are probably more like 8.2-8.4. Once again, the test kit is really hard to read.
<Understand. Is this when testing at the same time each day, or the evening to morning fluctuation? Have you searched our site re pH shifts in areas of poor ventilation? Good reading for you there also.>
I have a bottle of Seachem reef buffer, do you think this would be good to use in my tank?
<Just to make sure, don't actually use in the tank. Part of the water prep. (for top-off, changes) would be much better. Follow the directions and perform appropriate testing and you should be fine.>
I know my alkalinity readings are usually between 7-8. Calcium is around 500, which is a little high, I know, but is it cause for concern?
<Are you adding calcium? Hmm...If the calcium stays this high and you start adding buffer, the rise in your Alk. would be. Perform regular water changes to achieve appropriate levels first. So many factors here, it is hard to fit in an e-mail. Try reading here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm . Maybe this can add some clarity before you buffer yourself into a corner.>
Thank you once again
<Sure Anne. Sorry for the delay in response here, been a little busy. Good luck. - Josh>

Reef precipitate problems...   1/7/06
Hello, Crew, Happy Holidays. I'm worried about my 55gal reef. Here is my system:
  Standard 55gal w/sump--setup early OCT 05. Surge 3500 for return--about 300gph @ top. 4" DSB CaribSea special grade over 1" plenum. 1" LS and rubble over DSB. 60lbs. LR (encrusted in neon green coralline) and 10lbs. coral skeletons. Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0, Ca 400, 11dKH, ph 8.0, 77-78F. 1--300W Hydor heater in sump. 1--250w 10000k Ushio MH about 10mon. old, centered and raised about 12" above water 6 hrs/day. 2--65w 'superactinic' PC also @ about 12", 3 mon. old, 12hr/day. 10 blue LED w/ 9w transformer for moonlight. Mini-Jet 900 (235gph) in tank for added flow opposing the return outlet for more chaotic water movement, though I've noticed that most of my corals tend to sway more in one direction than randomly. 3.5"x20" generic venturi PS with Rio 600 pump--skimmate is med. green and fills the cup ea. day.
<The darker the better...>
Rock is setup as an 'island', though I'm going to change to a 'back wall' design w/ my next wc. Vertebrates: 1--2" Ocellaris clown, 1--1.5" Domino damsel,
<Keep your eye on this... mean>
1-1" 4-line
damsel--fed 2-3x/wk w/ OSI brine shrimp flake and Tetra marine flake. Inverts: 15 var. hermit crabs, 15 var. Nassarius/turbo/??? snails, decent copepod population, not too many amphipods (I think the clown has been eating them), and var. filter feeders, etc in LR. Corals: 3--2-3" Kenya tree (clumped together), 1--4" purple Ricordea, 1--.5" Ricordea frag...just grew out of nowhere, 3 mushroom frags, about 10 Anthelia frags, med. Anthelia group, 30 polyp blue Stolonifera, 7 polyp zoos frag, 20 button polyp frag, 100+ polyp Palythoa, 2 sm. pulsing xenia frags. Plants: very little brown algae, 6"x4" patch of Caulerpa in tank about 4" tall, and a small start of Udotea. Supplements: B-ionic 2 part weekly, Kent SuperBuffer every other day, Kent iodine weekly, Kent reef essentials weekly.
  Here are my problems
  1) Can't seem to get pH above 8.0 My source water is treated tap water, pH 7.6, .5dGH, 5dKH. I've been using Oceanic salt, but am thinking of going back to Instant Ocean.
<I would>
I've read the articles re: pH and alk and I've used baking soda and Kent's SuperBuffer and no matter how much I add, I can't seem to raise the pH. Most disturbing is that as I was mixing up a batch of water for a wc the water became very cloudy after being allowed to sit overnight.
<Likely a reaction with alkaline materials in the source water>
I don't know what the precipitate is, but it is white and has covered everything including the heater and pump used to keep the water mixed/oxygenated/heated and the pH is an astounding 7.6, even though I adjusted it to 8.2 w/ baking soda before adding the salt...salt is a 50/50 mix of oceanic and instant ocean.
<Just use the IO>
  2) My Xenia are melting away! The polyps seem to be melting off the stalks and those remaining are withered and not pulsing. They are in a med. flow area. w/ direct lighting.
  3) Palythoa was literally dumped into system by my wife when we got it about 3 wks. ago. Everything closed up tighter than a chastity belt and she went pale. Now 2-5 polyps closest to the lights will open moderately, the color is returning... slowly, and the whole think 'pimples' at night, but nothing more...and roughly every other day I notice what looks kind of like 2-3" 'strands' of ....I don't know what to call it but its pale, thin/wispy/snot-like, and clings to the polyps until I guess the current blows it away.
  4)  Zoos have started to develop a white powder-like appearance near the center of about 3 of the polyps and aren't as extended as before...oh, and one is extended backwards...the polyp somehow got itself inverted so that it can't close and looks more like a button toadstool--can/should it be fixed?
  5)  Kenya tree has what looks like some die off on one of its branches. the middle of a 1" long branch is kind of withered and dark. There are also dark spots under every single polyp that I hadn't noticed until 3wks. ago.
<Likely all this is due to poor water quality... New water should be pre-mixed, stored for a week or so before use>
  6) I got some Aiptasia in the rock with the Palythoa, one touching some of the Paly. and the baking soda injection I was recommended didn't work. Should I use a peppermint shrimp or Kalk injection. I don't currently have any Kalk.
<I would leave this/these be till your other livestock is in better shape>
  7) The Stolonifera is normally very hardy and always out, but the day before yesterday it was completely withdrawn...all day!, the next day it sent out two polyps, and today there are about 8. It sits about in the middle of the tank.
  8) Generally everything seems to be declining off and on except for my Ricordea which has been growing by leaps and bounds, as well as the mushroom frags.    
  Added thoughts: I'm looking at upgrading my return to a little giant pump through a SQUID and maybe a refugium, if I can swing it, in which case the Caulerpa would probably be moved...or maybe not, as I kind of like the look.
   <This last paragraph is a very good addition/change>
  Sorry for the ridiculously long message but I guess I'm venting/frustrated/baffled. Do you have any insights on these concerns? Branon.
<I would go ahead with the refugium addition, leave the Aiptasia be, switch back to the Instant Ocean, not add any more livestock... Bob Fenner>

Re: 'precipitate reef problems' addendum: Likely hydrozoan on a hermit   1/7/06
Oh, I forgot to mention another concern I'm having with my 55gal reef tank. Two wks. ago I noticed one of my hermit crabs walking around with what looked like a little bit of dandelion fuzz on his back. The fuzz seems to be multiplying/growing/? because it now covers almost half of his shell where it used to only be about 6-7 stalks. Each piece of fuzz stands about 1cm high, is white, and has a polyp/hydra/tentacle/? thingy at the end that sways with the movement of the water or crab There also is a whitening of the shell underneath the fuzz. I haven't a clue what it could be, couldn't find anything like it on the web, so I thought I'd ask if you might know what it could be, JIK. I'd send a picture, but my camera is still TKO. Branon.
<Mmm, likely a hydrozoan colony of some sort. I would not be concerned. Will likely go of its own accord. Bob Fenner>

Re: Reef precipitate problems...   1/7/06
The Revered Mr. Fenner... Awesome! Thank you for your time and response! The Stolonifera is back in full force and I noticed a 1.5" ribbon of green material leaving the center of one of the zoos...It looked to me like it was expelling zooxanthellae (sp?).
<Could be>
The domino is vicious--he's bit me almost every time I've put my hand in the water--but he was included with the group of fish for a really good price (all 3 for the store price of the domino) and I plan on trading him out when I get my next fish (probably a goby or blenny of some type--maybe--I'm so indecisive sometimes).
<Good... not the indecision, the heave-ho>
I will go ahead and mix up a new batch of IO and do a 20gal wc. Just to confirm, I'm not going to need to buffer the water or anything before adding the IO? Do I need to worry about pH shock?
<Mmm, no... not unless there is ammonia present...>
I'll be pulling the rock/livestock out with the water being changed, replace some of the water in the tank with new water, return the rock/livestock as I rearrange it into the 'wall' and then replace the rest of the water. Is this OK?
<Yes, should be>
I will also start putting together the fuge/pump upgrade. I'm also glad to hear I don't need to worry about the crab's hitchhikers. Thanks so much for the wealth of knowledge and wonderful advise you share with so many of us. You and your Crew are wonderful.
<Certainly welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: The negligent tank owner  - 1/6/06
Thanks for your reply,
As for removing my fish, well I only have my two black false percs left
and I took them out about a month ago for fear of them being eaten like
the rest of my fish.  I was most upset at losing my eyelash blenny (it
had so much personality) and my male and female mandarin dragonettes as
I've been told that breeding pairs are rather rare, and my two laid eggs
like it was going out of style.<You were lucky to experience a rare occurrence.> I had even managed to get 5 or so
larvae to live from each clutch of eggs <great to hear this> and sold them to my LFS (the guy
that owns this store is really good, he use to work for the Australian
Institute of Marine Science and is one of the few LFS owners not out to
make money, he just does it because he loves fish. <Very fortunate for you.> He's as stumped as I
am about my worm population, said he's never seen anything like it).
I'm beginning to feel that removing the coral might be my best option at
the moment (which isn't saying a lot), but this is where my problem is.
I have a thriving Corallimorph and Ricordea population.  Three of my
Corallimorph colours and two Ricordea colours are particularly
prosperous.  They have managed to grow all over my live rock, up the
sides of my tank, some are attached to various parts of my power heads,
they are on my stand pipe and a couple of particularly adventurous
individuals have somehow made it into my refugium (I have no clue how
they got in there but they did) and seem to be liking it down there as
well.  They pretty much cover almost my entire tank which is quite a
feat considering it's rather large at approximately 600 Litres.  I have
bits of coral linking all my live rock, so I can't remove it piece by
piece.  Can I cut these corals somehow to separate my rocks? <Yes. I'd use a #11 Exacto blade and holder, works well and VERY sharp.> How do I
remove the ones that have attached to my glass? <Might try a box knife blade and "scrape them off.> Or am I just doomed to
syphoning my rocks for the next few years, and plucking out bristle
worms during the day with meat tongs, and at night with my trap? <Try my suggestion in the previous email, I think it will speed the process up.  Sad to hear of the worm problem especially in such a successful system.  James (Salty Dog)>
Amanda

Questions Saved Up For A Month Plus One - reef op. 01/01/2006
Good Evening Great Ones!
<Uh.. They're busy so you've got Josh.>
Greetings from the mountains of Colorado (marine central). I have saved up a few questions over the last month, and hope you can find some time to assist me. But first, here is the basic information on our system:
<Okey-dokey.>
Our tank is a 130gal homemade Starphire bow-front; 24"High by 24" deep by 5 feet wide. It is bottom drilled with two overflows draining into a refugium. The tank is filled with 250 pounds of Aquiculture Florida live rock and 130 pounds of coral based live sand. The lighting for the tank includes two 250W 10K Ushio pendants, and two 80W T-5 Blue Actinic fluorescents. These are on a typical photo period of 12 hours with the MH on for 6 hours mid-day. Our homemade acrylic "refugium" holds 25gal with the tank overflow entering through two disposable 200-micron filter socks.  It also has live rock and sand and one 150W 6500K MH Pendant that turns on for 12 hours at night.
<That's quite a bit over a 25.>
Other equipment includes; an Aqua-C EV120 protein skimmer, two new style Ebo Jager 150W heaters, an Iwaki MD70RLT main circulation pump, an Eheim Aquaball power-head, and four ½" adjustable Loc-line return water nozzles. The water used is carbon filtered RO adjusted with Buffer, and then mixed with salt after a day of circulation.  Make-up water is currently RO with buffer added.
Water parameters for 12/30/05 are: Temp 75.5 to 77 Deg F., S.G. is 1.0235 to 1.024, Ammonia 0, Nitrite .01ppm,
<Should also be at 0.>
Nitrate .3ppm, pH 8.0, Alk 150ppm (8.4 dKH or 3 meq/L), and Calcium 335ppm.
<Rather low on these.>
Water changes are 15% every two weeks.
<I'd do 10% weekly, but not bad.>
Happily, the Florida Aqua-cultured live rock came covered with: 8 types of Macro Algae, purple Coralline Algae, four types of Corals, 5 types of Sponges, two types of clams, three types of beneficial crabs, many types of tunicates, two types of starfish, many types of worms, barnacles, two types of shrimp, six black sea urchins, and a host of other interesting inverts.
<Awesome!>
Unhappily, we received two mantis shrimp (one caught and one at large), 30+ whelks (all gone), and 20+ Gorilla Crabs (20 captured and at least one at large).
<Hmm...The whole cake and eating thing huh?>
Right before our eyes, the Gorilla crabs stalked our poor blue-leg hermits like cats and pounced on them, dragged them off and tore them apart with relish - good riddance. For three months now, the tank has been very healthy. The crabs and shrimp all have molted and grown, all the filter feeders look healthy and have good color (they are fed DT's and Marine Snow every other day). A rock anemone and a Condylactis anemone came with the rock and are both apparently healthy (fed mostly deep sea clams and broth). The only two fish, a Yellow Tang and a Lawnmower Blenny are also very happy eating maroon macro algae.
<Sounds like paradise.>
But, I have been trying to raise my calcium and alkalinity to meet the published standards you folks so often advise. This is because we want to add a few corals and a pink pulsing Xenia. I began adding small amounts of Kalkwasser two weeks ago (about a ¼ cup once a day (slowly).
<Have you run tests to establish calcium consumption?>
About the same time bad things started to happen. White splotches are starting to cover our coralline algae, and the young coralline algae circles on the glass also turned from purple to white (please see photo). About the same time, I put a new piece of live rock into the tank that had white coralline algae on it.
<Not "contagious". Symptomatic.>
So here are the questions:
1) From reading your FAQs I note that two anemones of different types can wage chemical warfare on each other. Will the rock anemone (photo attached for I.D.) wage war with the Condylactis that came with our live rock?
<How close together are they? Picture looks quite like a Heteractis aurora really.>
The Condy often deflates and spews forth brown slime, and then re-inflates after a few hours, but he is otherwise healthy looking and eats when fed.
<Make sure that you are feeding small enough pieces of food. If pieces are too large they will be regurgitated, providing no nutrition.>
2) What on God's purple reef is turning our coralline algae white and can I stop it?
<Actually, it's what's not on "God's Purple Reef". When you've gotten the pH, alk. and calcium bit straightened out, it will be fine.>
3) I am about to hook up an auto top-off system (Tunze Osmolator), and a peristaltic pump to drip in Kalkwasser. Considering the problem with the coralline algae above, is the latter advisable?
<Well...Could be bad news if overdosing your system by just doing systematic top offs. Would make it even harder to keep a good pH. Establish the desired balance first, then see where you are.>
4) I can't seem to keep the pH up no matter what. I add buffer, and have seen no signs of precipitation of Calcium carbonate (other than possibly the white covering the coralline algae, but that seems too target specific). Adding Kalkwasser should help raise the pH and the Calcium levels, but considering the white plague, I again wonder; should I do this?
<Try taking a gallon of your system water, measure the pH and then aerate it over a 24hr. period. Retest. Has the pH gone up? Poor circulation is the most likely reason for the pH problem and if this test reveals an increase in pH, that's what you've got.>
5) One of my red Mithrax crabs has grown to a size rivaling Godzilla.  His name is Monstro.  Monstro has a girlfriend that seems to have a kangaroo pouch on her belly full of thousands of eggs.  Two part question:  will Monstro harm corals and Xenia if added to the tank (he is as large as a 1/2 dollar coin)?
<Not very likely if in fact Mithrax, but...>
And, will his brood overrun the tank when they hatch and cause harm?
<Not sure there, though a large population of anything will get hungry and competitive.>
6) We have four peppermint shrimp and two very reclusive shrimp with peacock like iridescence in their otherwise clear bodies.  One of the peppermint shrimps has molted several times and is getting quite large. Her (we think) tummy seems to have thousands of eggs tucked up under her swimmeret's. Do these shrimp carry eggs like this, or are we imagining things?
<Yes they do.>
7) The last mantis shrimp stays in back of the tank where we never see him.  He is very wary and knows we mean him no good.  We have made two traps fashioned after lobster traps, and purchased another. These traps catch dozens of blue-leg hermits, but the Mantis only scoffs at us.
<Thank goodness they don't have fingers;)>
The rock he lives in is 25 pounds and covered with various sponges. So, I don't want to tear the rock apart and put it in fresh water as advised. I have though about adding an obnoxious night-light in back where he lives to entice him to move to the front where I can bait and capture him. Any great advice on this one?
<Sounds like your on the right track. If it doesn't feel safe, it will move. Oh, and just to save some time I'm putting your next question here.>
We have a red Mithrax crab that had been carrying around a large kangaroo pouch of eggs on her belly.  Last night, after dark, she climbed to the top of a high rock, stretched her body skyward into a vertical position and then released her spawn in three dramatic eruptions.  She then flapped her pouch open and closed like a bellows to expel the last of the young'ns before closing it back up.  The young crabs were capable of swimming against strong current (like miniature tadpoles), and were attracted to my flashlight. This may be a common occurrence for you, in which case I apologize.
<I don't believe this is common in the least.>
But, in over 35 years of diving, I have never seen such a thing. Please let me know if you would like to see my poor attempt at filming the event.
<Please do send this along.>
Thanks for helping all of us with your great site.
<A great pleasure to be a part of it!>
Also, we would like to let your sponsors know that we have purchased from them almost exclusively as a result of your good work.
<I'm sure they'll love to hear it.>
Sincerely,
Brad in Basalt
<Hope I've been able to help. - Josh>

Mainly reef operation
Hello crew!
Hi guys, I'm a long time reader, first time asker.  I love your site
<Me too!>
I have had a 92 gallon corner aquarium for over 5 years.  I changed the sump about 2 years ago to something larger, a 30 gallon corner sump.
I have been through many different service people, my local fish store is a real rip-off for the most part - they tend to oversell me stuff without telling me how it works.
<"Let the buyer beware">
  They will sell livestock without
asking questions or giving advice, so it's fantastic that there is a
resource like this for people like me to research from, thank you.
<Welcome>
In any case, I had lost interest in this hobby about a year ago after spending around $1500 in LR, and "live sand", and a bunch of new
equipment.  Ultimately I ended up with a tank full of Aiptasia (sp?), and eventually I just turned the lights off and let it "live" for a year
without doing anything other than replacing evaporated water and feeding my two Percula Clowns. Well, the holidays roll my in 2005 and my wife
asked me to do something about the fish tank during the break. I cleaned it up, replaced the bulbs, and ensured that all the equipment
was working, including a calcium reactor that was never hooked up right.
Here is what I have now;
-          92 gallon corner with a 30 gallon sump with a big pump
-          Berlin Protein Skimmer ( a real treat to setup ) with a
Magdrive 300
-          Canreef Calcium Reactor with a large Eheim pump
-          3 powerheads MaxiJet 900s on a timer
-          3 55 watt actinic power compact and 2 55 watt 10k
<I'd switch out the actinics for more white...>
-          About 130 pounds of live rock
-          UV light
-          All of the plumbing is hard plumbed and setup well.
So after getting the tank re-invigorated the ammonia is 0, nitrates around 20 PPM but I recently removed the bioballs from the overflow and
added LR so it should drop.  Calcium is around 350, PH is around 8.2-8.3 after a fresh water change, and everything was looking pretty good.
<Do measure your alkaline reserve as well...>
I added a few snails, three small sand sifting starfish,
<These are highly overrated... too predaceous for my liking>
and two very expensive long tentacle anemones.
<Not easily kept...>
It took about 5 days before they died, and they never really opened up properly.  The snails and starfish
died as well.  I have never EVER had luck with snails or anenomes and I can't figure out why.  Temperature is between 79 and 83 - now I am
wondering if temperature is a big issue here - I really don't want to buy a chiller unless I have to.
<Likely don't have to...>
After cleaning up *again*, I added some fish over a few days.  Of course the ammonia was still at zero, and water quality was still pretty good,
and I did a tiny water change during the clean up.  I added a cowfish, a tiny regal tang,
<Very hard to keep...>
a coral beauty, and a yellow head sleeper goby.  I also added a 6 line wrasse that was seen for 1 day and shortly after
disappeared.   The fish are doing great, although the coral beauty hides all the time, never comes to the front of the tank.  It's always
swimming in caves. I wanted to give you the background information before the real question - sorry for the book;
1)       Why can't I be successful with invertebrates or anenomes?
<Likely your water quality (lack alkalinity, magnesium out of balance), and insufficient light intensity...>
2)       Why is the rock turning all brown now? It's almost like the
tank thinks it's new, but it's not.
<Some shift in balance... to the algae's benefit... perhaps just available solubilized phosphate>
3)       What can I do to grow coralline again?  Does Garf Grunge work?
<Bolster both alkalinity and pH... and not really. This is just "hammered dead/live rock">
Please help.  I love the hobby, but experiences like this remind me of why I gave up for a year...  I'm sick and tired of not being able to
build a nice reef...  I've had a predator tank in the past, and it was cool to stare at the clown, puffer, and lion, but something about
investigating a tank for various signs of life intrigues me.
<Do keep reading... on WWM, recent magazines in the hobby interest... other places on the Net... keep good notes, bolster carbonate, bicarbonate hardness, investigate new purchases ahead of acquisition... Bob Fenner>

Re: Hello crew! Mainly reef operation
Thank you for the quick reply;
<Welcome>
I have two more questions.  You mentioned more white light, what if I
took out one actinic and added a 50/50 giving me 2 10k, 1 50/50, and 2 actinic?
<Mmm, I'd remove at least one more of the actinics... in another week or so.>
Also another quick question.  As I mentioned I have a large sump
underneath my 92 gallon (relatively speaking), and I really like the
idea of setting up a refugium which I'm reading about on your site.  I
don't have the ability to make a remote one under this tank, and I
certainly don't have room near the sump due to the fact that I have my
calcium reactor and C02 bottle.  Is there a pre-manufactured one that might fit inside the sump that you'd recommend?  
<Mmm, possibly. You'd have to measure... for now, I'd go ahead with your plan of modifying the existing sump>
Would you recommend that I remove everything from the sump and make a DSB down there?
<I would incorporate a DSB if you had space, yes>
  Would I need to add lights as well underneath?
<Yes... and macro-algae culture. Bob Fenner>

New set-up and plumbing
Dear WWM crew,
<Lance>
I happened onto your web site a couple of months ago and have been reading feverishly.
<About the same pace am keying...>
What a tremendous wealth of information! I would like to give you my intentions, tell you how I plan to get there and get your feedback. I'm starting from scratch and ultimately want a reef tank with SPS corals and a few fish. I can't stress enough that I am proceeding very slowly and expect this to be an ongoing process over years, not completed in a couple of weeks. I want to establish as closed a system as possible. Minimal nutrient input and export.
<Sounds very good>
Equipment:
Oceanic 215 gal. RR tank (72.5 x 24.5 x 29 inches) and stand. 4" Aragamax sand bed and 400 pounds of live rock.
Oceanic Model 3 sump using bioballs and possibly a sand bed in sump with minimal light.
2 - 10 gal. Refugia.
<... would look for, try to find space for larger volume/s>
Mag Drive 18 pump (3/4" inlet/outlet) in sump.
No skimmer - Exclusively biofiltration.
<Mmm, would fit at least a small, under-sized one here... You will find the utility...>
Lights - Current Outer Orbit (3 x 150W 10,000K MH and 4 x 96W dual actinic PC's) for display and each refugium will have it's own Current Dual Satellite (2 x 40W).
Stage 1: Set up and cycling
I'm stuck with the factory tank. No option to drill additionally.
<Rats! Perhaps "over the top" returns... worth considering>
I realize I will easily overwhelm the 2 - 1" overflows with this pump. Therefore, I propose to tee off the pump going to the display returns for the refugia. I plan to plumb the display returns with ¾" PVC from the pump, teed to each return and use a gate valve to throttle back to the capability of the overflows.
<Mmm, not the overflows... let these run full-out>
My conservative estimate is 300 GPH for each overflow and match the returns. Between the pump and gate valve will be 2 - ½" tees, one for each refugium, with a gate valve to control flow. One refugium will contain Chaetomorpha and pods turning 5 times volume per hour. The other will contain Gracilaria and Mysid shrimp turning 20 times volume per hour. Both refugia will have DSB, a couple of pounds of live rock and gravity feed back to sump to continuously "seed" crustacean populations in the display. Refugia will likely be seeded from a commercial source.
<Okay>
My first question concerns the bioballs. I frequently see these referred to in the FAQ's as nitrate factories. Shouldn't the nitrates be produced regardless, as the end stage of nitrification?
<Mmm, yes... providing more surface area, agitation here "piles up" the forward reaction, accumulation of nitrate...>
Is there a difference in this occurring on the bioballs as opposed to the surface of the rock or sand?
<Mmm, no... the same reaction series, just more "sped up", more microbes...>
Between the DSB's in the refugia and display, the algae in the refugia and the denitrification occurring in the live rock, can I conceivably control the nitrates? Thus, minimizing water changes and recycling nutrients?
<Yes... especially over time... into the whole running several months...>
Stage 2: Reef Janitors
When cycling is complete, I will slowly add Hermits, peppermint shrimp, sea cucumbers and serpent stars. By slowly, I expect to be at least 6 months in from the initial set-up at this point. Give adequate time to re-equilibrate.
<Good>
Stage 3: Increase Display Turnover
I need at least 20 times turnover per hour for the corals and would like to shoot for 30 times to allow more flexibility and increased head over time. I was thinking of using a closed loop system to accomplish this. The Sequence Reeflo Hammerhead pump (1 & ½" inlet/outlet) provides 5400 GPH @ 5' (0' static head but easily 5' due to plumbing). I'll plumb 1 & ½" PVC from pump and decrease to ¾" PVC for the manifold. I figure 14 to 16 - ½" nozzles ( ½" PVC 45 and 90 degree elbows). By my calculations, this should easily get me 20 times turnover per hour and potentially 30 times turnover with good nozzle velocity in the 300 to 400 GPH range evenly distributed around the top of the display. I can throttle back with a gate valve between the pump and the manifold.
<Yes>
My big question here is how to plumb the drain back to the pump for the closed loop. I know, ultimately, I need 1 & ½" PVC into the pump. But, how many drains should converge to the 1 & ½" PVC,
<Two are better than one... placed near the corners...>
what size diameter PVC for each drain up to the 1 & ½" PVC
<1 1/2">
and placement in the display for the drains?
<The corners>
Incidentally, I am paying attention to details in the plumbing such as true unions on each side of pumps, minimizing tees and elbows, etc.
<Ah, good>
My concern is that there is a fundamental flaw in my reasoning, so far, somewhere along this process that I may be able to correct before I get started rather than when I encounter it! Any better or more efficient suggestions to accomplish increased turnover?
<Mmm, no>
Stage 4: Begin Adding Corals and Fish
Key here will be slowly adding corals and fish.
Thanks very much for the help and any insight. I hope I've not monopolized too much of your time. I intended to get as much of this information out there in an organized manner so I can keep future questions to a single sentence. (Don't hold your breath.) ha ha Thank you again for all the wonderful reference material and resources.
Sincerely,
Lance Good
<Thank you for sharing your plans, goals. Best to hash out, cogitate furiously now... Bob Fenner>

Reef operation best  12/28/05
First, let me tell you what a wonderful and informative site you have, I've been reading it for a approx. a year and a half now.  Before I get into questions, it would probably be best if I gave you some history.  I've had (fw) fish off and on for approx. 20 years.  I had a 60 gal. Oceanic flatback hex tank in storage for about 8 years (too tall and too narrow), I decided to use this tank to save some money, (fixed income). My first mistake was going into something and not knowing anything about it. The second was listening to the sales people at the LFS.  I've had this tank up and running for a little over a year and a half. I have approx. 60 lbs. of live rock (not much room for the fish to swim, takes up most of the tank), approx. 1-1/2" of crushed coral and approx. 1-1/2" of live sand.  For circulation I'm running 1 Via Aqua 1300, l Seio 820, 1 Zoo Med 270 and 2 Aqua Clear 50's. For Filtration, I have a Whisper Power Filter 5 (left over from (fw) days and I running a Aqua Remora hob skimmer.  For lighting, I have Coral Life 65 Watt 10,000 k daytime and actinic . At this time I don't have a chiller and I'm running a 250 watt heater.  I only use RO water and my perimeters are Ph 8.2, Ammonia, nitrite 0, nitrate 2.5, Calcium 300,
<A little low... perhaps your alk. is too high...>
Alk High, S.G. 1.025, Temp 76, Phosphate.05, DKH 8.   As far as livestock I have an assortment of snails, red and blue legged hermit crabs, 2 peppermint shrimp, two cleaner shrimp and 4 blue/green Chromis.   At one time or another I've had a Kole Tang (who disappeared), 3 other Chromis (who disappeared),
<Disappearing fishes?>
a watchman Goby (I found his remains a couple days later), a neon goby (who disappeared).  The Neon and a couple of the Chromis before they disappeared, they seemed to have lost control of their movement when they tried to swim, they would only go straight up and down, I asked a couple of elf's and nobody knew what was wrong. As far as corals, I have a plate coral, a finger leather, a button polyp, a colony polyp yellow, 3 Ricordea mushrooms, Kenya tree, green fluorescent  mushrooms and 5 rock anemone (started out as one hitchhiked on LR,  first 9 months, didn't do anything, since then it has split 4 times, once,  twice in one day,  What are they good for?)
<Filtration, using water solubilized nutrient, looks...>
I purchased a Xenia from Live Aquaria and two days later all that was left  was  the plug it was attached to,  it never did expand.   With this current tank, I was thinking of putting a hob refugium and doing away with the Whisper filter (like it says, I'm lost)  My second option is to get a larger tank (approx 110 or 120), I would get one with the Megaflows with  a sump in and putting the HOB refugium on the back of it.  I would have to use the current lighting.  With all said and done, what it boils down to is what is the easiest  and least expensive way to do this,
<The added hang on refugium is cheaper than the new tank...>
You don't have to tell me, I should have gotten a new tank from the start and I could have saved a couple thousand dollars.  I also have a third option I just thought of, I could put everything out to the road and forget about it, what do you think?
<Heeee! Do send along your address!>
I'm sorry this is so long, I had to let everything out, have a good Holiday and thank you.        Chuck
<I would ruminate a bit re your added sumps/refugiums option here for now... You could do a bunch with this with your existing tank and gear... Bob Fenner>

What is going on in my tank?  12/26/05
Hello Crew,
Hope you are all well, glad to see the wealth of information is still growing. I would very much like some help with regard to my reef aquarium.
A run down on the set-up first.
300 gallon all glass 72x30x30
3 x 250 watt 14k, 2 x 140 watt actinics, 2 x 58 watt actinics, halides less than 6 months old
turnover 25,000 lph plenty of laminar flow and turbulence
pH night day 8.0-8.2 a bit low
<Not a problem here>
I know
Kalkwasser dripped nightly
AquaMedic calcium reactor ph 6.7 effluent 2 drops per second, reactor media currently ARM
<Mmm, do look around, try other media. This product is inferior>
calcium 400ppm
dKH 11
salinity 1.025
phosphate 0 with Deltec/Merck test kit
nitrite 0
nitrate 0, cant seem to get this to even a few ppm
<No worries... likely being rapidly taken up>
skimmer Deltec ap850
ORP 360+
ozonizer 100mg delivered through skimmer
strontium approx 9ppm
<Considerable>
fish 14 small to yellow tang size
corals around 25, sps 60%, LPS 40%
water changes 15 gallons every 2 weeks
Kent marine 4 stage RO filter TDS reads maximum of 3
Kent-marine organics resin
feeding 1 cube of Artemia daily
<I would expand this menu>
sps corals top 1/2 of tank
RowaPhos used continually in reactor
live rock around 150 kilos roughly
2 inch sand bed, fine sand
Now the problem of which I have been scratching my head for about 1 year over or since set-up, so little hair left!
Almost all corals are always pale, lack of symbiotic algae I think, sps always seem pale with little polyp extension, corals lack real growth, sps corals seem to never base down properly receding from the base upwards, coralline algae seems to grow to about 1 penny (1 cent) size and start to recede from the center. There is just a real lack of vigour. I have a Stylophora which grows more like a birds nest coral, very thin the upper branches show very little polyp extension although the parts in the shade on the underside seem nice and rich in colour and extend much more. I have a few Lobophyllia corals which seem pale also. Something is amiss and I am very baffled.  Do I need some big water changes?
<Mmm, as a blitzkrieg approach/improvement this might "do it"... would try switching the calcium reactor media to something "softer", more uniform... e.g. Korallith if it was my choice... first. Then purposefully bolstering alkalinity through supplementation next... the Tropic Marin products would be my first choices here>
Is the tank too clinical?
<Interesting... Possibly>
do I need to up feeding? apart from the low ph, the parameters and maintenance seem a great recipe for success or Is the 0 nitrate a major factor?. Lost for ideas and after so long running out of patience.
<New cnidarians should introduce new endosymbiotic algae possibilities... you might do well to offer a mixed feeding, infusion of single-celled green algae (so-called foods are commercially available) to help this along>
I look forward to hearing from you soon.
best regards
Lee
<There are some other approaches, possibilities... but am hesitant to suggest these for fear of confusing the situation. Do try switching out the media... see if this bolsters your alkalinity at all... and do write back in a month or so following. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: What is going on in my tank?
Dear Bob,
<Lee>
You responded to my below questions and posted them on the WWM site which I found although I did not receive an email, may be a problem with my email?
<Maybe... we directly (it's the default) respond to all>
Thank you for your response though and the suggestion to change out the ARM with something more uniform which I will do.
<And to be clear, not just more uniform, but more soluble, complete...>
I am a little baffled at your concern over my Alkalinity 3.93 meq/l 11 dKH?
<This is okay... but in your current situation, being a bit higher would be of benefit>
Also, regarding the feeding of single-celled green algae, could you give me a few pointers? perhaps some products I could be searching for on the internet?
<Reed's products are my first choice, then PhycoPure, DT's, others>
Kindest regards as always
Lee
<Bob Fenner>

Stabilizing The Monster!...From Dean In Ireland - 12/22/05
Hi gang, you are guys are my new best friends.
<<Hello!  New friends always welcome!>>
Been reading loads of Q&A's on your site.  Thank you for all the information there, IT IS REALLY HELPING ME OUT!
<<Ah, outstanding>>
I do believe I have bitten off more than I can chew at this stage,
but too late to turn back now!  I have TWO (note: 2!!) 269.3US Gallon tanks or 1047.57litres (6FT x 3FT x 2FT x 2) a SERIOUS MONSTER!
<<Ha, I do know what you mean!  When I began installing my 375g a couple years back I had similar thoughts.  But this will pass I assure you, and you'll soon be wondering how to/why you didn't get a bigger tank. <grin> >>
First of all I am very new to this and am really just writing to introduce myself as I may be writing often if in doubt, and ask one or two questions that I was not able to clarify using the FAQ's!
<<We'll look forward to your queries.>>
I had no idea this was a full time job when I started this!
<<LOL!  Neither did my wife!>>
Very complicated chemical balances and very expensive to maintain!
<<Mmm...not so "complicated" really, it will begin to make sense...but expensive, yes, can be so...not a hobby for the stingy/faint of heart.>>
OK, so this is the situation. I am not in the US, I'm in Ireland and just need some advice.
<<ok>>
I do regular water tests (Salifert test kits) and record all findings.  Have been having some trouble with green algae and I think it's red algae (like a fine brown/red layer growing on the sand)
<<Hmm, probably Cyanobacteria.  Have a peek here and among the indices in blue at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm >>
I try and suck it up and lose a lot of sand at the same time, very frustrating.
<<Try a smaller diameter hose.  But really, if this is a new setup I would just leave all be and let things cycle.  What you are experiencing is likely the natural algae progression of a new tank.>>
We are very limited in our choice of stores, in fact there is only one guy in Ireland who sells marine fish and equipment as far
as I've found.
<Well now...that's gonna be limiting...>>
He suggested increasing present levels:
Salt to 1.025 from 1.022
PH. to 8.6 from 8.0
Alkalinity  to 10.5 from 7.0
Calcium to 350-450ppm from 290
<<I am in agreement here with exception of the alkalinity.  With the recommended calcium level I would prefer to see alkalinity kept to 8-9 dKH.>>
Did as he recommended with Kalkwasser by night with drip feeder and some bicarb by day?
<<I would skip the bicarb and use Kalkwasser for makeup water as well.>>
# Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia, Phosphates are all 0 or very very low, so no worries there.
# Salt is up to 1.025(Instant Ocean)
<<Very good>>
# PH still the same 8.0?
<<Do try to get this up.>>
# Alkalinity/Carbonate Hardness right off the scale more than 16dkh?
<<Yikes!  Back off the bicarb now and do a large water change.>>
# Calcium even lower 245ppm (I have read the articles concerning Calcium and Alkalinity one goes up, and the other goes down, I UNDERSTAND NOW!)
<<Not sure I follow/agree.  But do some large water changes to get all back in balance and stick to the Kalkwasser only to increase pH/calcium.
# Magnesium very low 600 (Trying to understand the relationship between Magnesium, Calcium and Alkalinity, still a bit confused but know that I have to raise the Magnesium to +-3 times the
calcium to stabilize and I am presently looking for a Chemical Supply Store as I need large quantities. Your Magnesium in
Seawater page was blank so not sure).
<<Do some reading here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mgmarfaqs.htm  The water changes should help with the magnesium, but if you find you still need to supplement I like the Seachem product.>>
I have about eighty pounds of live rock and only about two dozen fish (mixture of tangs, wrasses, damsels, one eel, a beautiful tiger fish
<<???...the only "tiger fish" that I am aware of is a brackish water species.>>
and a cleaning crew of snails and hermits) Way more to come I know, and damsels have laid eggs recently.
<<Neat!>>
I would love to start with corals and anemones but I don't want to take the chance yet, get the water right first they say and the rest will look after itself!
<<Mmm...do take your time/do proper research.>>
I have sugar fine Aragonite sand and an eight foot sump under all of this.  Recently discovered that my filtration system was inadequate and changed to a biological filter that is really taking it's time to grow!
<<If you do go "reef", your research may show this will need to change.>>
Top of the range protein skimmer and Rowa Phosphate Filter, two UV sterilizers and top of the range Metal Halide lights over each tank (3 x White Blue Bulbs, I think 10 000k in each) and two UV Bulbs
<<I hope you mean 'Actinic'>>
on each side.  The white lights are on for 6 hours and the UV then for 12 hours (is this the wrong way around?)
<<I prefer a 12 hour (or close to) light cycles for both FOWLR/fish only and reef tanks...more natural in my opinion.  I would increase the halide lighting to 12 hours as well, and maybe extend the actinics an hour on each end for a dawn/dusk transition.>>
Trying to change water 10% each week, but it's allot of water!!!
<<Indeed...but necessary.>>
All in all, just wanted to ask what I am doing wrong, as the algae has definitely slowed but not stopped and I have to get this water balance sorted.  How do I get the alkalinity down safely so that I can increase the calcium?
<<Water changes>>
I will get Magnesium powder?  Which one?  What chemical symbol?  I'm really not sure.  Besides these small bottles are doing nothing for my pocket at the moment.
<<Do look in the Seachem product (http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/ReefAdvMagnesium.html), an excellent product that will help take out the guesswork.>>
Sincerely,
Dean Diplock
Ireland
P.S. Sorry for the essay! I know you guys are busy!
<<No worries mate...cheers and happy holidays, EricR>>

Rigging Skimmer, Among Other Problems  12/22/05
Bob, Anthony, you guys are like movie stars to me. I unknowingly bought an autographed copy of Reef Invertebrates, my personal favorite! Bob's Conscientious Marine Aquarist and Eric Borneman's book on corals are also incredibly useful to me, as well as the web site. Thank you.
<AdamC the stunt double here today.  Anthony and Bob do see these replies and will greatly appreciate your very kind words.>
I wanted to get your opinion(s) on my tank's well being and in the process bounce a couple ideas off of you. My only saltwater reef tank is 29 gallons. I have two inches of oolitic aragonite as a substrate and about 30 pounds of live rock. The tank is three months old. I use one 20K 150W Coralife metal halide for lighting. I have a small hang-on filter where I use carbon and phos-pads. I also have two RIO 400 powerheads blowing diagonally across the surface and a Fluval 304 powerhead several inches below them for current. My protein skimmer is a Bak Pak 2 with a micro-bubble remover and a section for biological filter media.
<All sounds great.>
The tank is primarily dedicated to SPS corals. I built two shelves with the live rock like reef flats that have nearly a dozen small frags: Montipora capricornis, digitata and verrucosa (spelling?); pink and green Seriatopora; Turbinaria scroll coral; several Pocillipora and Stylophora species; Hydnophora; and, yes, one red Goniopora.
<Wow!  With good growth rates, these corals could easily turn your aquarium into a 29 gallon block of limestone in a few months!  Seriously though, do beware of space limitations and aggressive interactions.  Most of your corals are weaklings, except for the viciously aggressive Hydnophora.>
I also have several small 2-3 inch clams and a thorny oyster (the T. croceas on the live rock with the SPS's). I feel guilty telling you I have T. gigas and T. derasa. My only softies are two nice Ricordea rocks (one pink, the other green), a small patch of green star polyps and a very small, bright green Sinularia.
<More fast growers!  I see a bigger tank in your future.  Did you ask Santa?!?!?  You will also have to be very diligent in maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels.  I have often joked about actually being able to hear T. Derasa sucking calcium out of the water!  HA!>
My fish include a Conde's Fairy Wrasse, a tiny Salarias segmented and a Yasha Hase goby (paired with a Randall's pistol shrimp). My inverts include a Staghorn crab, a yellow boxer shrimp, a Pom-Pom crab and three Trapezia crabs living in the stonies. My algae eating crew includes five Nerites, five Nassarius, a red Fromia starfish, a tropical abalone and a blue Tuxedo urchin.
<Nassarius and Fromia are decidedly NOT algae eaters.  The Fromia may eat some as it grazes for other more meaty things.>
My water parameters: NH4 0, N02 0, NO3 5-10 ppm, dKH 8-9 degrees, Ca 360 ppm, pH 8.2. Weekly 5 gallon water changes (Oregon tap water's 7.4 pH 1 degree dKH). Feeding frozen Cyclops-eeze, algae wafers. Not using R/O. Other than the giant clams becoming giants and the Goniopora eventually dying, can you predict any eminent disasters?
<Everything sounds OK.  Obviously, overcrowding will be an issue.  As far as the red Goniopora... many have good success with these, and at one time, mine was one of the fastest growing corals I have ever had.>
I have three things bothering me. I have green hair algae. Food for the inverts, fish, vegetable filter, etc; perhaps excess nutrients from inefficient skimming?
<This could be, but this skimmer should be adequate for your tank.  I would strongly suggest adding a few Astrea or Trochus snails or one or two Turbos.  You may also want to check the PO4 of both the tank and your tap water.  This can be a significant problem.>
I read Anthony's article and my skimmer is a hang-on variety. The pump is submerged more than two inches, and the water level varies considerably (1/2" evaporates every other day). The pump pulls air through a tube, as well as water. I don't think it pulls as much air as when I bought it. The pump isn't clogged and no salt creep is blocking air passage. Do you think I could hook up an air pump to aid the skimmer's pump? Would that help?
<I have significantly boosted the efficiency of these skimmers by dropping a wooden airstone into them.  It may be worth a try.>
Also my dKH is 8 and my Ca is 360 ppm. I use "Kent's Calcium Reactor," not a calcium reactor, nor Liquid Calcium (with calcium chloride). It's supposed to raise both simultaneously but doesn't. The numbers are stable but on the low end. Should I leave it as is?
<If you want to raise both, you could simply use more of these products.  I am not familiar with this specific product, but Kent's "Tech-C" as well as ESV's B-Ionic and Two Little Fishies "C-Balance" are all excellent two part additive systems that give excellent control over Ca and Alk.>
Any suggestions on my set-up, equipment needs, compatibility issues, etc. You guys are my only trusted source of reference. Sorry about this email's length; I don't write you guys enough. Take care, Adam Michels
<It sounds like you are generally on the right track.  The only issue of concern is space and possibly PO4 from your tap water. Best regards!  AdamC.>

The tank is now running! Reef op. 12/21/05
Hi guys. After two and half years of planning I have finally bit the bullet
and ordered my live rocks for my 175 gal. reef tank. I owe most of my
success  to you, the staff of  WWM. For that I thank you from the bottom of
my deep sand bed. Enough with the jokes and on with the questions. For
this system I purchased 88lbs Fiji uncured rock, 70lbs of Tonga and 25lbs
of  branch rock. I had to do an all nighter to prepare the rock for the
display. I put the DSB at the same time because it is easier than after all
the rocks are in. I did the inspection, smell test, scrubbing decaying
matter. All fun and games. The tank has now been running for 4 days and did
the some tests to see if  everything is in check. This is where it gets
confusing. Starting with the pH, the Seatests brand gave me I think 8.2 but
the color chart on the card given is to close to tell. It could be 7.5 or
8.2.
<... if the rock is all that is in there now, this is not such an issue... but would check, correct after the LR is cured, before adding other life>
For new sea water I use R.O. water that has been aerated (submersible
pump) for 24h. I did not buffer the R.O. water because the Salt mix
(Oceanic) should buffer it once mixed and aerated. The other parameter
showed .2 mg/l for nitrate,  2ppm nitrite, 10 DKH alkalinity and 810 for
Calcium. I am bit concerned about this amount. could this be bad reading?
<Is, of a certainty>
The Seatest kit asks to add the drops until the color changes from blue to
yellow /green. Could this be related to the sugar size aragonite DSB
releasing it's calcium?
<To some extent, yes... but is highly unlikely actually higher than about 500 ppm or mg/l>
Could it be related to the PH and buffer. Is the
buffer too low?
<No>
Is this all related to the fact that the system hasn't
cycled yet?
<Hmm, ahhh, yes>
Is there a need to lower the calcium? and how?
<No... not a problem... will "solve" itself with time going by here...>
Another concern
is how the sand at the bottom gets pushed and formed into sand dunes in
areas where the jet of some the outlet of the closed loop
manifold. In addition the tank starts to cloud up. The pump running
this manifold is
pretty powerful: Dolphin Aqua Sea 3600. Do I need to dial it back or diffuse
the ports further?
<I would try the latter first>
Is the pump too powerful?
<Possibly>
The  main pump is a Amp Master 2100 hooked up to a manifold over the perimeter of the tank. I chose to run
only the blue PC for lighting 4 hours a day.
The other light are two 250w MH.
Do this seem OK?
<From here? Sure>
I also want to allow the coralline to start growing as soon
as possible. What do I need, strontium?
<Mmm, no... decent pH, calcium, alkalinity... all covered on WWM>
Also can add a detritivore kit at this time.
<Wait a few weeks... till there's no nitrite...>
I am going to be running a refugium with Chaeto can I add it at this time?
<I'd wait>
Thank you for all of your answers and expertise
Sincerely
Stephan
<Patience my friend. Read, enjoy the anticipation for now. Bob Fenner>

Re: Ironaquarist contest 12-12-05
You don't know how much help you have been Travis! I gave her your pointers, and pointed her towards the wetwebmedia website. The first thing she has done is decided to return her Chromis, so that she will have 6 fish.
<A great start.>
Then, since she plans to keep her corals, and read that wonderful article on pygmy angels, she has decided to find her coral beauty a new home (or get a 75 gallon used tank- whatever comes first).
<Another great step forward.>
I also bought her her own copy of CMA! At 37 bucks, it was not cheap, but every beginner *needs* that book. I have 12 different books and that is the one I return to time and time again.
<That was a great thing you did. I wish more people would be that giving.>
I realize that you guys are not there to solve disputes. The intention was to get seasoned voices to speak on issues we differ on, that way, both of us who are learners benefit from the voice of experience. That is what your site does, and all the FAQ crew do, give us the chance to research, learn, find out what we are doing wrong and fix it before our fish suffer.
<I could not have typed it better myself!!!>
  Thanks for all your help
<It was my pleasure.>  
  Sweta Kannan
<Travis>

Reef tank problem  12/12/05
Hi Guys,
I have heard you guys were great from my father, I have had a 20 Gal. reef
tank for about 8 months, the tank has back pack wetdry/skimmer on it, as
well as a refugium ( with miracle mud, and various types of macro algae), the
lighting is the new model CoralLife PCs with the moonlights delivering a
130 watts to the tank. The tank has about 27 to 30  lbs. of live rock and a 3
to 1 inch sand bed depending on the area. My tank was perfect and I had it
running at the max of is bioload, I believe? <You were way over the maximum load.>I had a small sailfin tang,
6-line wrasse, Fiji damsel, dwarf lion, yellow watchman goby, and a few
hermit crabs, 5 astrea snails, 2 peppermint shrimps, one cleaner shrimp, and
one coral banded shrimp, and two emerald crabs, and a queen conch. I also
had 3 colonies of zoo's, purple rim Montipora, Montipora digita, a lot of
Xenia, and a small leather.
About a month ago I saw a very small hippo tang and against my better
judgment i bought him and put him in my tank, I also added the refugium at
the same time, he was fine for about a week then I noticed he had an
outbreak of Ich, soon after fish starting dropping off, the sailfin was the
worst and everyone told me to flush him, the lion died, yellow goby, hippo
also perished. The sailfin ended up pulling through and is now completely
healthy. once that was under control all my Xenia died ( I assume bacteria
infection), this was a surprise because they were so healthy and were
spreading like crazy. I tried to remove as much as possible, soon after my
purple tip Anenome  died <Another cause.  Dead anemones in a tank that small will cause a wipeout.  Anemones are not easy to keep to begin with yet alone in a overloaded 20.> the night after that all the zoos closed up and all
the other corals bleached out. So my question is what might have caused
this? Was it bio overload and the tank crashed? <Very much so!> Is there any chance that the
bleached corals will come back to life?<Unlikely> And if so what can I do to help
them? Is there any way the refugium and the miracle mud had anything to do
with my disaster? <No, without it you wouldn't have gotten as far as you did.> The tank was always healthy and livestock did extremely
well until now. Any advice on this would be great and I appreciate your
time! <In a 20 gallon tank, four small fish would be about the max.>
thank you, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jason Joseph

Odd Things, Very Odd Things (Occurring in my reef tank...)  Hello guys. 
<Hi Ian. You got crewmember Lorenzo today.> 
I'm fairly new to the reefing hobby, but have found your web page and find it very useful! My setup is as follows:
20gal long and shallow tank. Red Sea Salt mix SG is @ 1.24 for the most part sometimes rising to 1.25 due to evaporation that I promptly replenish every morning. Crushed coral sandbed about 1-2 inch deep. 3 pieces of live rock aprox 6 lbs and 3 other rocks about 10lbs worth. 
I have SeaClone skimmer and AquaClear hang on the back filter with no nitrate colonizing media that I keep clean and house carbon and mechanical filtration and also from time to time certain sponges to remove unwanted nutrients, it also serves as flow that I can easily change by sliding it to another part on the back of the tank. I have a Hydor heater and digital thermometer that keeps the tank between 76.5 and 77.7 degrees. 
For lighting I've built my own hood housing 2 t12 20k 20w 24" bulbs and also 1 t8 24" actinic. I truly enjoy the color it creates and seems to be plenty 4 what I plan on having/putting in my tank. I have mushrooms that have already propagated itself by falling off and reattaching on another rock and also one by fission. It created 2 mouths and is splitting down the middle. Another mushroom is growing onto the stalk of which the other fell off. I also have a bubble coral, a frogspawn coral, some small zoanthid polyps, a feather duster, and some other zoanthids that are green and have long polyps. I have a sally lightfoot, a peppermint shrimp, 4 zebra snails, and a black brittlestar. 
As for fish I have a small sailfin tang that I plan on trading in once it gets too large for my tank, a 6 line wrasse, and a strawberry pseudo. I bought the tang from Petco [big mistake] it now has ich. 
It seems as though my peppermint shrimp has set up a station and keeps the tang rather clear of parasites other than on his rear and pectoral fins. The tang eats readily and seems otherwise fine. The other two fish haven't had symptoms yet. 
My water quality is as follows: ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 10ppm or less alkalinity 5.5 and ph 8.1. The lights are on a timer and the actinic comes on earlier and stays on later to simulate somewhat of sunrise sunset. 
The corals open and extend everyday except for recently I've been having trouble with my frogspawn although it is near the shrimp station and believe it is getting irritated by the tang constantly swimming over for the cleaning services of the peppermint. My main concern is the green zoanthids with the long polyps. It seems as though they are curling towards the top and some will open and close even when it doesn't appear they r being disturbed. 
<They may be responding to food in the water column, or to the lighting, if it's changed recently.> 
Its never done this before and I've never changed the water flow at least in terms of strength while I have changed the direction from time to time. 
<"Direction" is certainly a significant change, though probably not a big deal.> 
I feed with DT's phyto and also have a large amount of copepods and unfortunately have some green flatworms hence the wrasse and strawberry. I do plan on attempting to keep a C. varians
<The nudibranch? Bad idea. It'll starve, die, and in such a small tank, that could spell catastrophe.>
and possibly a coral banded shrimp, but heard the shrimp is aggressive? 
<Yes, it certainly is. Your peppermint will probably not survive, nor your sally lightfoot> 
My main question is should I be concerned about my frogspawn or my zoanthids? 
<What about them? The shrimp won't really bother them other than stealing food, which is no big deal.> 
Also why isn't my skimmer getting much in the cup? 
<Because it's a piece of junk, with apologies for the bluntness.> 
Its very brown the stuff it does get just not much of it maybe half a cup every 2 weeks when I do a 20 percent water change. Any advice would be appreciated as it seems as though you folks are reef savvy as they get. I love the new hobby and have to admit its a little like being addicted to crack (or so I hear!). Thanks again!  Ian
<Cheers, and best of luck! Zo>

Reefing question...daring anemones  12/5/05
OK, I've got a standard undrilled 55 gal setup running and I'm really unsure which direction I should go with it. I have about 60lbs Fiji LR (it was dry but has been in system with an activator for about three months) and a fair amount (another 10-15 lbs. of coral skeletons (decorations I was given, but I'd also love to get some green star polyps or what have you started on them)). I have a very healthy population of copepods, about 30 asst. snails (Turbos, Astrea, etc...), 15 Mexican red-leg hermits, 1-- Kenya tree coral group (3 stalks, 4", 3", and 1.5" tall), 1-- 4" purple Ricordea, some button polyps frags, some zoos frags, and another two 1.5" frag of I don't know what (they all came together from GARF as a credit and I haven't had time to ID these little guys...one looks kind of like a bluish-white Stolonifera and the other has some 2mm bluish, bubble-looking polyps???) and neon green/yellow coralline algae (kind of cool/unusual). 
I've read and re-read every article and post on your site, as well as many others, about reef setup and anemone keeping but I'm still torn about what type of system I want to set up. I really love anemone/clown fish systems, but also like reefs and most of what I've read says that for the most part they don't mix. 
<It's very sound advice, to NOT mix anemones into reef systems (especially sensitive small-polyps stony corals, but it CAN be done, and often is...> 
I'm also afraid of fishy losses, as my wife and I love gobies and blennies. 
<Good point. The mellow fish that just sort of sit around in the water column are those most often taken by anemones...> 
I'm really considering an algae blenny and scooter blenny 
<Please consider the scooter very carefully - this is not a blenny at all. Read about Mandarin fishes - same family.> 
and/or possibly a clown goby or two...Maybe a Banggai cardinal or some fire fish...Hmmm... If I do the anemone system I'm planning on two BTA 
<One is more than enough in a tank this size. They DO grow, and sometimes split, in captivity. Also, please insist on a captive-propagated BTA.> 
and 2 clowns...not sure on type yet, but would still wind up wanting some goby-type fish as well.
<As long as you stick with the BTA (and AVOID carpets or other aggressive anemones) you'll probably be fine.> 
I'm planning on adding a refugium (downstream) 
<always a good addition> 
and maybe a calk reactor 
<probably not necessary unless you will have a great number of stony corals>. 
I have a 4" DSB (1/2 of which came from my previous 30gal system) on a 1" DIY plenum. I'm running a generic venturi PS fed by a Rio 600,
<you could certainly benefit from skimmer upgrade!>
(1) 250w 10000K Ushio MH (centered and raised about 10") 
<VERY nice, more than sufficient>
(2) 65w CFL Super actinics (420x430) and DIY blue LED moon lights. 
I have a Mini-jet 900 and a Rio 800 at opposing sides for current. 
<Fine setup, but be sure to keep the RIO clean.> 
Return from sump is currently about 300gph, but I'm planning on upgrading to a 1/12 hp Little Giant pump that should give me about 600 
<Just be dang sure your hang-on overflow can handle this. Probably not necessary, and an additional expense - including electricity. I'd upgrade the skimmer first!> 
and then using a SCUID (sp?). <SCWD>
<These are very nifty>
Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites all test 0, Temp is 75.5-76.8 F (using 300w Theo Hydor heater in sump), and salinity is 1.025. I have never done anemones and have only had a little experience with corals, and that mostly successful with easy stuff...(though I'll be danged if I have ever been able to get mushrooms to do anything for me!...though I've always had this type of lighting on my other systems...maybe too much for mushrooms?) 
<Yes, too much light for most mushrooms> 
Top off is with treated/aged tap water. I also use Kent Iodine and Essential Elements weekly and B-Ionic's Calcium and Alkalinity supplements every 2nd or 3rd day, as well as a weekly buffer make by Kent that I can't remember the name of right now. Nothing will be changing for at least a while because I'm still fighting with my discus tank, but I'd like some input to chew on. Any suggestions? Branon. 
<Sounds like you're on the right track to me. No reason to rush, especially into an anemone. Cheers, Zo>

Live Rock?...Base Rock?...Self-Empowerment? - 12/03/05
Ok, Here is a real easy question for you. But seems impossible for me at the moment.
<<Let's try to change that.>>
I have about 50lbs (give or take a few) of "rock". I bought it at the LFS and some of it has the purple and pink coloring.
<<Coralline algae...maybe some sponge material.>>
There are also a few rocks with "things" growing on them.
<<Ok>>
Did I buy "live rock" or "base rock"?
<<If the rock was held in a marine system (wet), then it is considered "live", whether it is meant to be used as "base" rock or not.>>
How do I tell the difference?
<<Hmm...as stated, base rock can also be live rock. What you may be referring to is when folks use dead/dry rock to build the base of a reef and then load "live" rock on top. Some also use live rock to build the base (recommended), which may display less obvious life upon it, and then use live rock with a greater obvious abundance of life (sometimes sold as "decorator" rock) to pack on the top. But rest assured, if the rock was kept wet, it is all "live", though there are varying degrees of quality based on where/how it was collected, how it was shipped/handled after collection, etc..>>
I have tried to check out the FAQ's on curing because I read that this is necessary, but never really found a definite answer.
<<Mmm, hard to believe, much info here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrcurefaqs.htm and at the indices in blue. Do have another look and determine which method suits you best.>>
The rock looked good and smelled good when I bought it. Was it cured already?
<<If it has been at the LFS for some weeks (4-6) then likely yes.>>
If not how do I "cure" it now?
<<Read the FAQs>>
It has been in my 55gal tank for about a month or more with fish and crabs.
<<Then likely a moot point.>>
I am pretty sure that the tank has gone through a full cycle because all my test strips are coming out the same color as the chart provided with the strips.
<<Ok...but do invest in some better test kits. The test-strip kits are wildly variable/inaccurate, susceptible to environmental conditions (humidity), etc., and pretty much just there for the lazy.>>
A week after I set up the tank (adding damsels, hermits, and "rock" at set up), none of the strips were very good. Now every thing seems fine.
<<We can hope.>>
The only filter I have is a "Whisper".
<<Cleaned weekly I hope.>>
I don't have a protein skimmer yet.
<<I recommend you get one.>>
Should I get one and how much should I spend on one.
<<As Anthony is fond of saying...good things are seldom cheap and cheap things are seldom good...prepare to spend a C-note and more to outfit this tank with a quality skimmer. Have a look at AquaC, Euroreef, ASM, and others to find a size/style to suit your situation.>>
Are UV filters necessary and easy to operate?
<<Neither necessary nor desirable (for reef systems) in my opinion...and can be a maintenance nightmare.>>
I have recently found your website and asked a couple of questions already. Your advice has been helpful but it's still a struggle.
<<Will get easier with reading/research/asking questions.>>
Besides the "rock" questions I am also baffled by the "mystery of the disappearing fish". I had a tomato clown. The other night I seen him "eyeing" the anemone (bubble tip w/purple tips). Now he is dead!! He kept his distance for about a week and a half. Did the anemone try to eat him?
<<Doubtful. though does sometimes happen.>>
I have two hermit crabs and one blue leg crab and about a dozen "red Mexican" crabs. Three of my damsels have disappeared.
<<Hmm, I suspect you have introduced a predator with your recent addition of live rock (one reason to quarantine everything). Did this rock happen to come from the Atlantic?>>
I saw the carcass of the yellow tail making a fine meal for one of the hermits.
<<Just doing its "job".>>
Are the crabs taking out the fish?
<<Unless they are very large...not likely.>>
Do I have a civil war going on here?
<<Sounds a bit one-sided for a war...more like something is having a feast...or (more likely)...those test strips are lying to you and your water chemistry is not as it should be.>>
This is what I have in my tank as of now.... 3 striped damsels, 1 neon blue damsel,
<<Mmm...maybe no mystery after all...those striped damsels may just be "clearing" their territory of the other damsels (of which the clown fish is one too). Please do some research on these fishes re compatibility/aggression.>>
and the above mentioned crabs and anemone. I started with damsel total and a Tomato clown. One damsel died of unknown reasons and the others are MIA. I had a small bout with Ich but with a 25% water change (about 13 gallons of distilled water replaced the saltwater)
<<What?!! In your display tank?! And with an anemone at that! You need to do better research yourself my friend...you may be your tank's worse enemy at the moment.>>
raising the temp to 80 degrees and using a medication recommended by the LFS.
<<Medicating the display is not recommended.>>
I seemed to have got over that hurdle (I hope).
<<I hope you have restored salinity in the tank to that of natural seawater...>>
Did I jump into this thing with both feet and no life jacket?
<<Does sound if so...have you purchased any books on the subject? Researching "before" you act/buy (doesn't sound like it to me)?>>
Is there hope?
<<Certainly, but is up to you my friend. Spend a little time/money on this investment to read/learn what you are doing/doing wrong.>>
<<I suggest more time than money at this point.>>
Thanks again. I realize that you would rather have an octopus stuck to your forehead than read and answer questions like this but I am having a hard time and really do need the help.
<<Not as hard as the time your fish are having... But understand, we are here to help you help yourself. You are the one who best knows your system/circumstances, we can only advise based on what we are told...and reacting to mistakes already made is really not the best way. Slow down for the moment, arm yourself/get your information up front by reading/researching beforehand and you and your wet pets will be the better for it.>>
Thanks again and sorry for that migraine I just caused.
----saltwater newbies-----
Mike and Teresa Yates
<<No worries mates, EricR>>

Maizehello... Long Time Webpage Reader First Time Question... (Not Sure of What I Have!)  11/30/05
<Hello! John here, and welcome.>
I have just started a saltwater with about 35lbs live rock (Fiji and "tong" something).
<Tonga>
I have six damsels.. two 4 stripe, two 3 stripe, a yellow tail and a neon blue, a tomato clown and a "Condy" anemone (purple tip). About a dozen Mexican crabs, one blue leg crab (I think that is what it is) and two hermit crabs. The tank has been up and running for about a month now. I used a quick start formula to help with the initial cycle and as of now all levels have been good. I did have a small bout with ICH and lost a spotted damsel but everyone else seems to be doing fine.
<You didn't post the size of your tank, but I hope it is big enough to be able to house this large number of aggressive fish. One month is also a very short time to be stocking a tank with this many fish, and certainly too soon to be adding an anemone. Anemones are quite touchy creatures, and I'd encourage you to read through the anemone care pages on Wetwebmedia so yours doesn't go the same way as so many other new marine fishkeepers.>
I have two questions...I seem to be getting a lot of "material" accumulating on the sand floor. What is this and can it be cleaned or should I even be concerned?
<Algae and diatom coverage of the sandbed is common in new tanks... peruse the algae FAQs for more information. Employing an adequate skimmer, and maintaining good water flow are all good first steps... but time is the major healer for such symptoms in new tanks.>
I was told by someone that cleaner shrimp are really neat and the fish will actually "line-up" to get "cleaned".
<Cleaner shrimp are wonderful creatures, in my opinion. I'm convinced that mine is the most intelligent creature in the tank! For all-round personality, I would choose the common skunk cleaner shrimp, Lysmata amboinensis. There is much information on these on the site. Your fish are unlikely to "line up", but this shrimp is likely to try to clean fish.. and even your hand! Make sure your water parameters are pristine before adding the shrimp. I would like to know what type of shrimp would be best for a saltwater newbie like myself. I would appreciate any and all advice you can give. thanks!
<Advice... you have a great resource here at your fingertips... continue to read up on damsels, anemone care, reef systems in general... and most of all, enjoy the hobby!>
Mike and Teresa Yates
<Best regards, John> 

Starting out, part 2 - 30/11/05
Thank you for the advice...
<You're very welcome>
I have been scouring your FAQ's. There is so much info, it is hard to decipher it sometimes. My tank is a 55gallon
oblong. I did use a quick start formula to cycle it initially. Do I really have too many fish?!
<You're on the full side for a 55g, I wouldn't add any more. The problem with the damsels is that they are very aggressive and will terrorize (to death) anything else you add in the future.>
The "reputable" salesperson at the Local shop said that damsels are best to put in first to cycle. 
<Unfortunately, a common way of doing things, but entirely unnecessary and very unfair on the fish. You can cycle with just live rock (no formula or potion needed), and add fish very slowly once all your parameters are in check.>
<<Remember, there is a difference between cycling (culturing nitrifying bacteria), and curing live rock (helping the rock "recover" from shipping, being prepared for the die-off associated with).  Marina>>
I have thought about starting another tank. What would be the best type of fish to start with?
<The fish you want to finish with.>
I want (ok, my wife wants) a lot of color and I think that is why we started with Damsels. The kids had to have "little Nemo". I would have preferred a cool Lion Fish or eel.
<You can read much about all of these in our livestock section. Regardless of what anyone (me included) tells you, research will be key. I prefer smaller fish myself, but this is personal preference.>
Should I get more live rock? and how much is "enough" for a 55gal tank?
<The amount you have now is fine, but more may be beneficial. Make sure you cure it first (see the live rock FAQs)>
The fish shop sold me a reef starter kit. Iodine, Calcium, Strontium & Molybdenum.
<All absolutely unnecessary unless you have corals. And even if you did, only the calcium is (perhaps) necessary, with careful testing. At best the others are unnecessary. At worst, they will pollute or even harm your tank.>
All by Kent Marine. I Use a quick dip 5 test strip by Jungle.
<Fine as a "stop gap" if you don't have the time to test, but I would recommend liquid reagent tests for accuracy. Test strips are notoriously unreliable.>
I will read everything I can on the "Condy" care. I really love this thing and want it to flourish. Is there any special trick to get the anemone and the tomato clown to "buddy up"?
<Time... it may never happen. The anemone will need strong light and water flow. Make sure you cover any powerhead or filter inlets>
<<This is an unnatural pairing what with Clownfishes being endemic to Pacific waters only, and the Condylactis being an Atlantic animal.  However, it HAS happened!  Marina>>
Thanks again for your help. I am new to this and the last forum that I tried took almost a week to get back to me on anything.
<I understand. The information is all on this site waiting to be read. You can use the edit-find function (in Internet Explorer) to search for specifics on some of the larger pages.... but reading through is half the fun!>
<<Even better: Use our Google bar, then when you get results, hit the "cached" link.  It will highlight your search terms.  Marina>>
Thanks again...saltwater newbie
<You're welcome -- we all were once... Best regards, John> 

Re: Snail Death and now Broken Filter  11/29/05
Hi
<Hello again, Glen.>
I woke up this am and wow.. filter motor burned out..
<Bummer.>
bought new filter but kept bio wheel...
<Good move.>
I did 3 water changes in a row about 20 gallons of the 30... a tiny bit ammonia left. Nitrites 0, and nitrates 10..
<A lot better than before.>
hopefully that bio wheel keeps some of the beneficial bacteria in aquarium... Should I do anymore water changes tomorrow am.. or let it ride..
<Let it go for another 24 hours since you just performed these large changes and then try 25%.>
Have a cleaner shrimp powder brown
<A tang? I hope you know the potential size and space needs of this critter.>
and clown in there.. all fish still doing ok.
<Be sure to match make-up water chemistry as close to tank chemistry as possible so as not to "shock" the system.>
Thanks
glen
<Adam J.>

SW advice  11/22/05
Hi Guys,
I have been checking in on this site now and then and I love it. You guys have helped out a few times before and thank you for that. The site has been very inspirational. I have been doing fw for years now, among other pets, and have thought about giving SW a shot. Being limited in space ( at most I can fit a 36" long tank ) a 20 gallon would probably most practical. Budget being tight, I have been looking for used tank packages. 
I have found one that looks good but I want second opinions on the deal. It would include all of the following for $200. I also want to know if I have to recycle the tank if I keep most or all of the original tank water.
<A good idea to use/keep a good part of it>
I also want to know the best way of transporting the live stock i.e. can they go in buckets with a lids on them as I have to transport them over a 4 hour car ride.
<Is posted: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrshippingfaqs.htm>
20 long tank
live rock
6 purple mushrooms
crabs
peppermint, banded shrimps
snails
live sand
30 lbs live Tonga, Fiji rock
2 gobies, 2 damsels
100 gallon protein skimmer SeaClone
hood, 50/50 - 20 watts
biofilter
2-100watt heaters
some other accessories,
Thanks a lot,
Eric
<... reads like a good deal. Bob Fenner>

New Tank- New Methodology  11/22/05
Hi
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I currently have a 46gal bow front. We have a wet/dry (480GPH) 2 powerheads (330 GPH each). 30 pounds live
rock and about 1/2" crush shell substrate. We have 2 Clowns, 1 Tennent Tang, 
<<What is a "Tennent tang?  Marina>>>Acanthurus tennenti... RMF<
1 baby Niger, (tang & Niger are why bought larger tank)
<Good...'Cause you know what my next line was gonna be...!>
2 BTA, Several Zebra & Nassarius snails, & Red-Legged hermit crabs. All doing great. Have a little bit of nitrate problem. It is always 20 - 40ppm unless I do large water change. (even before adding the BTA & Tang) We currently do 10-15% a week in water changes. After reading your website it is probably the stuff trapped in the substrate.
<Also, the wet/dry is a major contributor to the nitrate accumulation. Although they excel at removing ammonia and nitrite, these filters are "victims of their own success", and cannot remove nitrate effectively. Yanking the bioballs is one way to fight this, among other things that you can do...>
So we have just purchased a used 200 gal system (to make the Trigger & Tang happy). It is 61in long and 31in deep. It is coming with a Tunze filtration system kit with a pump of 650GPH, a Tunze protein skimmer, VHO lighting, UV Sterilizer, basically all the goodies. I am not familiar with the Tunze system and have a couple of questions.
<Great equipment>
Is 650GPH enough movement through the filter? The owner said that is all he used and he never had a problem. He says he was told that because no water is leaving the tank (this filter type sits on a tray at the back top of tank) that the pump size is sufficient. I would like your opinion. He never even had a powerhead in the unit.
<Well, the flow through the filter is dictated by the components, and Tunze equipment is matched up pretty well. As far as overall circulation in the system, I don't believe that this is sufficient. I'd recommend a "reef-level" flow of a minimum of 10 times tank volume per hour.>
Also a lot of different opinions on this website about DSB and what type of material to use. Can a DSB be created using crushed coral? 
<Not recommended, as this material tends to accumulate detritus very quickly, and may pack down too tightly, preventing good circulation within the substrate. Also, employment of so-called "sand-sifting" animals is problematic in such a coarse substrate.>
How deep? Or is that trouble in the making?
<Yep...Use a finer substrate if you want to go the DSB route.>
Is Aragamax a good sand to go with?
<Great stuff for a DSB>
We are looking at using the Aragamax sand, but because we have never used sand as a substrate we are not sure on maintenance.  We were planning 4 - 5" sand bed. Can we mix our existing crushed coral in, just to seed the sand?
<Just a handful, IMO.>
We have read the DSB article on the website and read a lot of FAQ's. I think sometimes there is way too much info on this site. Which I guess is a good thing.
<Sometimes!>
Will sand interfere with the filtration unit?
<By "interfere", I presume that you need "get blown around"? Possibly...As far as some other problem- no- it should compliment your other filtration techniques (a position not shared by all hobbyists, however! Some people are very "anti-sand-bed", claiming that it is a long-term maintenance liability...)>
The pump sits at the top of the tank and has a siphon hose that hangs down to pull water up from the bottom. Also will powerheads in the tank blow around the sand? I don't want constant dust storms in the tank.
<Could be a problem; you'll need to set up the system first, see how the returns and flow are configured, then add your substrate, adjusting flow direction as needed.>
Maintenance: With sand how often should we clean the tank and how deep into the sand bed should we go?
<Just the first 1/" or so...Don't disturb the deeper layers, or you'll interfere with the very processes that you're trying to foster in a DSB.>
Same question with crushed coral?
<Just don't use it, okay? LOL>
FYI: We plan on putting at least 150lbs of live rock in to cycle the system and will continue to add fully cured live rock into the tank after.
<Good..>
I look forward to hearing your opinion and hope my email wasn't too long. I know you all have answered almost these exact questions a million times.
Thanks, Jeri
<No problems, Jeri! Better to ask and do it right from the start! Best of luck to you! 
Regards, Scott F.>

New tank setup question Bob's Way (Or, Someone Forgot to Put out the Dog!)  11/22/05
Hi, I currently have a 46gal bow front. We have a wet/dry (480GPH) 2 powerheads (330 GPH each). 30 pounds live
rock and about 1/2" crush shell substrate. We have 2 clowns, 1 Tennent Tang,
<Too small a system for...>
1 baby Niger,
<Ditto>
(tang & Niger are why bought larger tank)
<Would wait on...>
2 BTA, Several zebra & Nassarius snails, & red legged hermit crabs. All doing great. Have a little bit of nitrate problem. It is always 20 - 40ppm unless I do large water change.
<Crowding, filtration type>
(even before adding the BTA & Tang) We currently do 10-15% a week in water changes. After reading your website it is probably the stuff trapped in the substrate.  So we have just purchased a used 200 gal system (to make the trigger & tang happy). It is 61in long and 31in deep. It is coming with a Tunze filtration system kit with a pump of 650GPH, a Tunze protein skimmer, VHO lighting, UV Sterilizer, basically all the goodies. I am not familiar with the Tunze system and have a couple of questions.
<Wow... nice gear...>
Is 650GPH enough movement through the filter? 
<Mmm, can/could be>
The owner said that is all he used and he never had a problem. He says he was told that because no water is leaving the tank (this filter type sits on a tray at the back top of tank) that the pump size is sufficient. I would like your opinion. He never even had a powerhead in the unit. 
<I would add circulation>
Also a lot of different opinions on this website about DSB and what type of material to use. Can a DSB be created using crushed coral?
<Yes...>
How deep?
<A few to several inches... I encourage you to "go back to a/the drawing board" and consider incorporating your current wet-dry, and/or tank as a refugium/sump... placing the DSB there>
Or is that trouble in the making? Is Aragamax a good sand to go with?
<Can be used, though there are better. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm>
We are looking at using the Aragamax sand, but because we have never used sand as a substrate we are not sure on maintenance. We were planning 4 - 5" sand bed. Can we mix our existing crushed coral in, just to seed the sand? We have read the DSB article on the website and read a lot of FAQ's.
<Oh! Good>
I think sometimes there is way too much info on this site.
<Mmm, not in my opinion/experience... Folks should read "enough", make up their own minds...>
Which I guess is a good thing. Will sand interfere with the filtration unit?
<If too fine, low density, yes... but unlikely>
The pump sits at the top of the tank and has a siphon hose that hangs down to pull water up from the bottom. Also will powerheads in the tank blow around the sand? I don't want constant dust storms in the tank.
<Again, not likely>
Maintenance: With sand how often should we clean the tank and how deep into the sand bed should we go? Same
question with crushed coral?
<Some like stirring rather than vacuuming. Some folks use a purposeful screen/barrier... I would "do half" the bed at any given interval... the other half next time>
FYI: We plan on putting at least 150lbs of live rock in to cycle the system and will continue to add fully cured live rock into the tank after. I look forward to hearing your opinion and hope my email wasn't too long. I know you all have answered almost these exact questions a million times.
<<Well, THIS exact question has now been answered exactly two times!  <giggle>  Marina>>
Thanks, Jeri
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>