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FAQs about Trachyphylliid Coral
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition Related Articles: Trachyphylliid Corals,
Trachyphyllia Reproduction Report,
Related FAQs: Open Brain Coral
1, Open Brain Coral 2,
Trachyphylliid Identification,
Trachyphylliid Behavior,
Trachyphylliid Selection,
Trachyphylliid Compatibility,
Trachyphylliid Systems,
Trachyphylliid Disease,
Trachyphylliid Reproduction,
Stony Corals, Stonies
2, Stonies 3, LPS
Stony Corals, Coral System Set-Up, Coral
System Lighting, Stony Coral Selection, Coral
Placement, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation, Stony
Coral Behavior,
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Trachyphyllia
geoffroyi... and ... Wellsophyllia radiata (Feeding Requirements?) -
04/01/08
Hi Crew -
<<Howdy, Gene>>
I recently purchased two beautiful open brain corals; one a super neon
green the other a very cool tri-color.
<<Neat!>>
I did a lot of research on these corals before purchasing them but much
has changed with regard to these corals and I am getting a lot of
conflicting information on feeding as well (dated materials).
<<We’re learning more all the time, but even so I’m sure you are aware
of the differing experiences and opinions that abound in the hobby>>
For example, it was well thought for some time that there were two
species the Trachyphyllia geoffroyi (the one thought to be closer to the
water’s surface and needed more light) and Wellsophyllia radiata (the
one thought to require lower light and deeper water).
<<Mmm, yes…and Bob describes the latter as “nomen nudum” or “naked name”
which in taxonomy means it has not been adequately “described”>>
Now it's pretty much understood that both are really one species and
light and flow requirements are the same.
<<And based on “where” on the reef the specimen was
collected…information sadly lacking in the trade as yet>>
Also, it was always understood that these corals need to be on a sandy
substrate and now it's understood they can be on rock as well.
<<Again dictated by……..>>
None of this is concern for me and is understood. Where I do have a
question is feeding care. For example; my coral provider does not target
feed his brains.
<<As a retailer or as a hobbyist? As the former…likely reasons of
economics/turnover. As the latter…likely misinformed>>
Then I read, depending upon the publication, that they should be target
fed 5 times a week, or 2 times a week, or 2 times a month ... or never
depending upon the tank.
<<Hee-hee! We having fun yet!?>>
In a WWM search on this subject Bob Fenner writes: "I suggest no more
than twice weekly feedings of Open Brain Corals... other
authors/aquarists only advise one or two times a month. Meaty foods
(fish flesh, crustaceans, shellfish) or chunky size can be placed at
night right on the animal’s tentacles. Still other writers and hobbyists
apply or rely on their systems, refugiums to produce sufficient
planktonic food for their Open Brains... I encourage you to expressly
feed yours."
<<Hard to go wrong with Bob’s advice. I agree for the most part…though I
prefer a “minced” diet to “chunky” foods for these corals>>
I use the Ecosystem method with a 65g DT and 35g refugium feeding my
tank DT's and freeze dried Cyclopes when I target feed my orange Sun
Cups each night.
<<The Cyclops-Eeze would also be a good food for the Brain Corals, in my
opinion…along with Mysis Shrimp, minced Clam, Glass Worms, etc.>>
I also feed my fish twice a day with a homemade source of sea foods,
vitamins... So, am I good with Bob's recommendation of "no more than
twice weekly feedings?"
<<Okay>>
Or should I do more like 5 times as is also written elsewhere in WWM?
<<Let the corals be the deciding factor… Feed them twice a week for a
while and see how things go…if the corals are doing fine, then I don’t
see any need to increase the feedings>>
Just your best recommendation is greatly appreciated in this ever
changing hobby!
<<Ha! And that is the “best” I can do>>
Thanks so much.
Gene
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>
Re: Trachyphyllia geoffroyi... and ... Wellsophyllia radiata feeding
care? - Take II – 04/1/08
Hi Crew - Just found this on WWM; note the recommendation to feed
only one a "once every few weeks..." or Bob Fenner at "twice a week"...?
<Yes... So? BobF>
Trachyphyllia feeding - 1/24/08
Hello. I have a green "open brain coral" (*Trachyphyllia geoffroyi** *I
believe) that I have had now for about 2 years. I feed it 2-3 times a
week, usually a few Mysis shrimp or frozen reef zoo plankton and on
occasion fish food (New Life Spectrum). I noticed that from time to time
(maybe once or twice a month) that the coral looks very deflated and
"skinny" and is expelling what looks like fish excrement into the water.
From what I understand expelling waste back into the water is pretty
normal, but I can't help but wonder if I am doing something wrong. The
coral just looks pitiful and starved with all it's "skeleton" showing
through it's tissue almost as if it's been slowly deteriorating and
dying over time. I always get worried but the coral returns to its
normal healthy "fluffy" self within a day or so. Is this normal for it
to look this way or is it a reaction to something unfavourable in its
environment or food?
<Jon, it is a common misconception that Trachyphyllia need feeding
often, true they benefit from feeding but this need only be every few
weeks. It may just be overfeeding leading to excess waste, as most of
the coral's energy will be gained from suitable lighting. It would also
be interesting to monitor if the reaction is linked to a particular food
source?! Frozen food is very high in Phosphate also and feeding unwashed
food may lead to high phosphate concentration exposure in the digestive
system of the coral. Many possibilities and unless the skeleton shows
through fully i.e. white calcareous visible, then all should be fine
(you've cared for it for two years so you're obviously onto a winning
formula), just lessen the feeding and enjoy what are my favourite Genus
of coral!>
Thank you for help
Jon
<Olly>
Re: Trachyphyllia
geoffroy... and ... Wellsophyllia radiata feeding care? - Take II – 04/02/08
Bob F. - Just confused by the conflicting info on a good feeding cycle for
my brains. Twice a week then as you suggest or as was posted on WWM on 1/28/08
"the misconception" and need to be fed once every few weeks?
<Ahh! I see>
Seems like a big divergence here in the consult.
<Mmm, not so much... there are folks of the opinion not to expressly feed most
"corals" period... though all Scleractinians do "eat" to degrees...>
I do like twice a week BTW and they do seem happy.
Thanks,
Gene
<This "happiness" is most important. Cheers, BobF>
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Trachyphyllia feeding -
1/24/08
Hello. I have a green "open brain coral" (*Trachyphyllia geoffroyi** *I
believe) that I have had now for about 2 years. I feed it 2-3 times a week,
usually a few Mysis shrimp or frozen reef zoo plankton and on occasion fish food
(New Life Spectrum). I noticed that from time to time (maybe once or twice a
month) that the coral looks very deflated and "skinny" and is expelling what
looks like fish excrement into the water. From what I understand expelling waste
back into the water is pretty normal, but I can't help but wonder if I am doing
something wrong. The coral just looks pitiful and starved with all it's
"skeleton" showing through it's tissue almost as if it's been slowly
deteriorating and dying over time. I always get worried but the coral returns to
its normal healthy "fluffy" self within a day or so. Is this normal for it to
look this way or is it a reaction to something unfavourable in its environment
or food?
<Jon, it is a common misconception that Trachyphyllia need feeding often, true
they benefit from feeding but this need only be every few weeks. It may just be
overfeeding leading to excess waste, as most of the coral’s energy will be
gained from suitable lighting. It would also be interesting to monitor if the
reaction is linked to a particular food source?! Frozen food is very high in
Phosphate also and feeding unwashed food may lead to high phosphate
concentration exposure in the digestive system of the coral. Many possibilities
and unless the skeleton shows through fully i.e. white calcareous visible, then
all should be fine (you’ve cared for it for two years so you’re obviously onto a
winning formula), just lessen the feeding and enjoy what are my favourite Genus
of coral!>
Thank you for help
Jon
<Olly>
Feed Me Seymour!!! Trachyphyllia and torch coral feeding problem,
1/29/07
Hello guys,
<Hi there Mark, Mich with you tonight.>
Gotta say, I found your site a couple of weeks ago and have been reading through
a lot of the FAQ's ever since and it's an amazing service that you provide!
Great job!!
<Welcome to WWM, glad you found us!>
I have an open brain coral and a torch coral. The open brain seems to be doing
just ok. We've had it for about 2.5 months now and it hasn't grown at all. It
has these spikes (don't know the right word for it) that are all around the
circumference and some of them are white now. The store told us to feed this
phytoplankton powder stuff (please forgive the spelling if it is wrong) for all
of our corals.
<Less than ideal.>
I've been reading on your site that we need to be feeding both the torch and
brain corals with meat like krill or shrimp. Is this phytoplankton stuff
sufficient?
<Mmm, not really, there are better options out there.>
I've been trying the meat at night about an hour after the lights go out but the
little mouths aren't opening any more at night, and before the corals have a
chance at the meat, the cleaner shrimp come along and steal the food.
<Oh yes, been there, done that, and exercise in frustration so sure.>
The torch coral is fairing less. It is turning white and the white is working
it's way from the base of each torch and working it's way out to the end where
the mouths are. I've been having the same problem with it since I've been trying
to feed meat lately, the shrimp come along and steal it. Do you have any
suggestions for how to feed these guys without the shrimp coming along and
stealing it?
<Yes, you will need to temporarily move these corals to try to rehab
them. Frozen mysis shrimp soaked in Selcon would be a good food source. Use
only the meaty parts, the liquid will just produce excess nutrients in your
tank. They need to be somewhere that the shrimp can not steal the food, one way
of doing this is to place them high in the tank and keeping vigil over them
while you are feeding them, scooting the shrimp away if need be. I've also
tried temporarily covering them during feeding time, but did not find this
method terribly successful. These corals are not doing well, tissue recession is
never a good sign. You will need to be pretty vigilant to bring them back to
health. How are your calcium levels? Have you been doing frequent water
changes? If not, now is the time to start.>
Also, I've been reading that the open brain coral
should be placed on the substrate, and it always has been, but the torch coral
is placed on some rocks about mid way up the tank. We have a 90gal with VHO
lighting, 2-40watt 10K blue actinic lights and 2-40watt 10K actinic white
lights.
<This is contributing to your problems. This is not enough light. Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
Please consider adding light to you tank if you plan on keeping corals. Your
ballast should be able to handle bigger bulbs if you are truly running a VHO
setup and not just a normal output system.>
The blues come on an hour before the whites and stay on an hour after the
whites. Is this placement all wrong for the torch coral, should it be on the
substrate as well?
<Not necessarily, at this point these corals need intensive care.>
Also, just FYI in case, the tank params are: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates 25,
<I hope you mean 0.25 ppm here.> phosphates .2, calcium
460, alkalinity 4.5, <Elevated, less than 3.5 meq is desirable.> and PH 8.1.
Thanks for all of your help!!
<You're welcome!>
Mark
Re: Feed Me Seymour!!! Trachyphyllia and Torch coral feeding problem
1/29/07
<Hello Mark, Mich with you again.>
Thanks for the tips!!
<Welcome! I hope they help, and if you figure out something better, please
share!>
Here's some clarifications/questions to your responses. I was incorrect on the
lighting, they are not 40 watt, they are actually the 48" 110 watt Coralife VHO
bulbs. I must have thinking of my
garage lights, DOH!!
<Heeheee! Something seemed inconsistent...>
That should be enough for the size tank we have I would think...
<Yes, much more appropriate.>
We do frequent water changes, 90 gal. tank about 18-20 gals
changed per every 2 weeks.
<Very good.>
For the alkalinity, the Sea Chem test kit we have says it should be between 4
and 6 meq. I've been buffering it up to just a bit into that range since it also
says natural sea water is between 2 and 3 meq. I figure it shouldn't be at the
other end of the 4-6 range. I can back off a bit, but then pH drops to 7.9-8.0,
too low from what I've been reading.
<Nah, keep doing what your doing.>
I will give your suggestions a try on the feeding. It looks
like the corals mouths are open tonight, so hopefully they will eat good!
<And well too!>
Thanks for your help!! You guys are great!!
<You're welcome! Not great, just trying to make the world a little bit
better. -Mich>
Mark
Response to Feed Me Seymour!!! Trachyphyllia and torch coral feeding
problem, 2/16/07
Hey WWM,
<Hi there Johnny! Mich here.>
I was recently doing my nightly browsing of your site and came across
someone's question Feed Me Seymour!!! Trachyphyllia and torch coral feeding
problem, 1/29/07 and thought that I may be of some assistance. Pretty
sure other people probably use this method, but in order for me to keep my
fish and shrimp from stealing the food off my Trachy, I cut off the top of a
Gatorade Bottle about 4 to 5 inches down from the mouth. I rinsed it
thoroughly to get out all the additives and glue from the label. Now, my
open brain is bigger than the bottle circumference but with a little coxing
it will retract and allow me to put the bottle over him and allow me to drop
the chopped Shrimp or silversides onto the mouths with out the thieves
getting to it. Hope this Helps...
<Thank you for sharing. -Mich>
Johnny Droste
Worried bout my open brain
10/2/06
Hey guys/gals,
I love reading your faq's they are very helpful. First my tank
parameters I have a 25 Gal tank with 2x 65 CoraLife Pc's 1 10K 1 03
Antic, my salinity is 1.025, PH 8.2, alk 11, ammonia is 0 nitrates 0,
this is a coral only tank no fish. My question is about my
Trachyphylliid I have had him for over a month. I feed him 2 krill 2 to
3 times a week and i feed DT's once a week he has awesome expansion and
seems healthy, but the other day this white stuff came out of his mouth
(refer to pic) I blew it off with my turkey baster gently and it has
came back do you guys know what this is?
<Looks like egested food-waste... Cnidarians only have one opening/exit
to their lumens/gastrovascular cavities... I'd "fish out" (siphon, net)
this waste. Bob Fenner> |
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Re: Trachyphyllia.. nutrition, health... RMF career 7/22/05
Good day Bob or whoever I may be speaking to today....I hope all is
going great today...
I have several things to throw your way today...I'm sorry if I've got a
repeat question thrown in here.
In regards to my Trachyphyllia:
When food is offered to it, the mouths close up. Except when I offered
plankton. I haven't ever seen sweeper tentacles come out (even when it
was doing normal cycles), Do you think it may be getting the nutrients
it needs by me taking a plastic syringe and gently directing fine meaty
foods at it... even without the presence of the tentacles?
<Possibly, yes>
The algae that is forming on small parts of the skeleton... could I try
to gently remove it somehow or would this be advised against?
<Directing a stream of water... as with a powerhead or small submersible pump is
all I would do... don't physically touch>
Is Iodide harmful to any marine animals or corals if used properly (that
you are aware of)?
<Not unless overdosed>
I've got a rock that had several mushroom corals growing, a piece of the
rock broke off leaving one of the mushrooms attached to the original
rock as well as the broken off piece. Is it best to let it be (it is
hanging, I've propped it back up but it wont stay) or someone
recommended I should just tear it off the original rock :( sounds
painful but I'm not sure it feels pain like that? :)
<I would "tear it off", move it to someplace safe, stable>
Thank you in helping me on my journey, I swear I'm not trying to be hand
fed... I just need a little help with this predicament (the brain). And
the other questions are just thrown in there... my main concern is my
brain though!
On a bit of a more social level...what is your favorite dive location?
<Mmm, there's a bunch... overall, the Red Sea likely>
Bob... do you go and speak at seminars
<Almost every month... for the last few decades... to hobby groups mainly, in
the pet-fish and dive/adventure interests>
or am I interpreting some info
wrong.... at one point in one of your responses to someone's questions it
sounded like you do seminars, if you do...have you ever found yourself
in Indiana?
<I think so...>
One more personal/social question... what is your career...
How do you make it possible to go on all these wonderful diving
journeys?
Thanks guys!!!
Codie S.
<Good, friendly questions... I do five "things" for money, including two that
are petfish related... am a content provider, selling writing and photography...
But really, am retired in terms of having to "do" work... invested a part of
what I earned, in stocks in good companies, real property... so I can/do travel
about half the year. And I do encourage you to take up the dive, travel habit as
well! Thank you for asking, sharing. Bob Fenner>
Coral questions
Hi,
<Graham at your service.>
I have a couple questions and can't find the answers in your FAQs. The
first one: I have read about open brains and different scientific names. I
have a Wellsophyllia; is this an open brain?
<Yes. Most likely your brain coral is in the genus Trachyphyllia.>
Also, does my Wellsophyllia need to be fed, and if so what?
<The Brain coral will benefit from regular feedings, however, it's not
needed. If you wish to feed your coral, you can try to feed the coral at night
when its feeder tentacles are out. Once these tentacles are out, you can place
several small pieces of krill within these tentacles and the brain should
consume the food. Silversides and lancefish may also work.>
Another quick question. What do you recommend to feed Fungia and what
do you find to be the best method.
<If you feed your fish regularly, most likely the plate will be catching food
particles. You can also place small pieces of meaty foods (krill, silversides,
squid, etc.) within the plates tentacles. The tentacles should then push the
food towards the central mouth where the food is then consumed.>
Do frogspawn need to be fed as well or is good lighting sufficient (I have 1 250
watt metal halide and two 36 watt actinic bulbs in a 75 gallon corner tank).
<As I stated above, they will benefit from regular feedings, although it
isn't necessary. If you choose to feed the coral, do so the same as you would as
I described above with the plate coral.>
Thanks!!
<Take Care, Graham!>
Andrew
Coralline Algae Growth
Hello Crew!
<Hello, Ryan with you today>
Just can't seem to find the answer to these in the FAQ's
(sometimes TOO MUCH good information to find a specific
question). <I know! It's a bit overwhelming at times>
1. I have an open brain coral that I feed meaty treats
(shrimp, clam, squid) 3 times per week. I noticed that
it has 3 mouth-like structures that I put the food
directly into and it gets sucked in. I have to stand
guard else my ever hungry clowns will snatch the food
up. Is it necessary to feed each mouth? Can I just
feed one or two of them and the nutrients will get
shared to the entire organism? The third is a little
hard to see/reach and this direct feeding method is the
only way I have found to feed it without others in the
tank (clowns, shrimp) snatching the food for themselves.
<The more each mouth eats, the better the entire colony will
grow. Corals grow in a very deliberate way; To make the most of a
certain environment. This said, I would either move the brain so that
you can feed the entire thing, or make the extra effort. As for
snatching, it's highly frustrating. Will a fish feeding just before
will keep them distracted long enough?>
2. On my live rock, I have tons of coralline algae
growing. Colors of purple, maroon, red, green and pink.
On my glass, pumps and base rock (Tufa), I only have
one shade of purple growing. I would really like a mix
of colors. Any ideas on how to encourage this process
or why only one is spreading from the live rock to other
areas?
<One is outperforming the others at this given time. What's your
calcium level? Some varieties of coralline won't grow unless high
calcium levels are met. It's just a matter of luck, time and
patience. Perhaps you could graft the variety you like to unclaimed
territory before the more aggressive types have the opportunity?>
Thanks a lot. You guys are a real credit to the hobby
and I would be lost without you (or it least I would not
have such a wonderful tank). <Great to hear! Hope this helps, and
good luck- Ryan>
-Ray
Can I feed my brain too much?
Hi there-
May I say again how much I love your site?
<Sure!...and Thanks!>
I really appreciate the
resource. I actually have five questions for you. My tank is about 5
months old, 46 gallon, protein skimmer, Eheim filter, halite lights. I do
weekly 10% water changes. Ammon, nitrates, and nitrites are 0, salinity is
1.024. I have two perculas, one magenta Dottyback (eats my little
Bristleworms, by the way), a cleaner shrimp, and various blue-legged hermits
and snails. I have a frogspawn and a hammer and a brain and some star
polyps. They have all seemed to have adjusted well, and colors and extension
are good, and they have all grown a little bit. Here are my questions:
1) My brain coral is a pig. I feed the corals Mysis shrimp weekly, and I'm
not sure how much the brain would eat at one sitting. It is about 4" in
diameter, and I give it about a dozen shrimp. Should I keep feeding until
it stops engulfing? It is growing the most.
<I would err on the side of caution here, and underfeed. If it's growing, it's
happy, and overfeeding can pollute your tank.>
2) I had not been feeding my star polyp shrimp because I thought it was a
vegetarian. I accidentally dropped one on it a week ago, and it snatched it
up, so I gave it about 3 more. Now it doesn't look so perky. Did I make it
sick?
<Doubtful. GSPs go through cycles of closing up for no apparent reason
sometimes. If it stays closed up for long, then start to worry.>
3) My cleaner shrimp has molted 4 times in two months. Is this bad for its
health?
<Not at all. Good sign that it's growing and thriving.>
I do supplement with iodine and the calcium level is about 600
(high, I know. Trying to solve) Should I be doing anything else for it?
It eats like a pig, too. I thought these guys were supposed to by shy...
<The iodine addition is completely unnecessary IME, but it could be helping. If
paired with another shrimp these guys can molt as often as two weeks after they
spawn. Just need to feed them well.>
4) The tank has developed a bad hairy algae problem. Do I have room to add
something that would eat it, and if so, what would you recommend?
<Rather than adding something to consume it, consider fixing the root of the
problem--nutrients in your water. Do you use RO/DI for top off and water
changes? What size skimmer do you have? Are you overfeeding?>
5) My tank evaporates almost 2 gallons a day (probably because of the hot
lights). Does this replacement water count towards water changes, by
chance?
<Nope. Are you adding any type of calcium/alkalinity supplement?>
Thanks again. By the way, my frog spawn continues to excrete brown goo
after shrimp feeding day. (I asked earlier if it was coral excrement) It
seems to be doing really well, too. My perculas have started to host with
it.
<Possibly 'coral poo', yes.>
--Jill
<Cheers, Matt>
Feeding of open brain coral (Trachyphyllia)
Hello,
<Cheers, Anthony Calfo in your service>
I purchased a nice green open brain coral this past Saturday. In going over the
archives, I saw a recommendation by Mr. Fenner that they be expressly fed a few
times per month.
<not correct... reread, my friend. He suggests twice weekly/8 times monthly:
"Foods/Feeding/Nutrition: I suggest no more than twice weekly feedings of
Open Brain Corals... other authors/aquarists only advise one or two times a
month. Meaty foods (fish flesh, crustaceans, shellfish) or chunky size can be
placed at night right on the animals tentacles. Still other writers and
hobbyists apply or rely on their systems, refugiums to produce sufficient
planktonic food for their Open Brains... I encourage you to expressly feed
yours.">
I purchased a package of frozen chopped clams. Last night, around 10:00 PM, I
cut off a piece of the chopped clams, defrosted it in a Dixie cup of water from
my tanks sump, and drained it through a stainless steel strainer (used
exclusively for my tanks). I then gently placed the chopped clam onto the brain
coral,
over where the tentacles are. The clam stayed put for about three minutes before
water currents finally carried it away to the bottom -- where about five or six
Nassarius snails had a banquet!
<first of all...make sure all food is finely chopped... LPS coral will often
regurgitate large chunks of meat in the night and die of attrition much to their
keepers surprise who thought they were feeding well. Secondly, simply add a tiny
bit of meaty juice fifteen minutes before feeding to get feeding tentacles to
come out so that the brain can sting and draw food later>
The tentacles were not open when I fed it. I have noticed that the tentacles are
open during the day. They come out within minutes of my turning on the lights in
the morning. If they do open at night, it may be at some ungodly hour when I am
not awake. I do not believe that I can feed the brain coral during the day
because if I do, the fish will
undoubtedly go after the clams.
<fine... use the juice feeding trick just prior to the organismal feeding>
The coral is not on the substrate. I have it placed in a section of my Marshall
Island rock about 4-5 inches above the substrate.
<wow... most likely a very bad place. Unnatural, risks to soft tissue from
daily polyp cycles and the animal also derives necessary nutrition from the
microclimate on the substrate. Please place the skeleton in the sand as it no
doubt occurred naturally>
It is facing straight up. I placed it there to make
sure that it was getting good lighting. The tank it came from at my LFS was much
shallower than my tank. Did I do something wrong? Any advice on how to best go
about feeding my open brain coral the frozen chopped clams?
<please do feed a better variety of meats than just clams>
My plan is to feed the brain coral once per week.
<I believe the coral will starve to death in time on this schedule... Twice
weekly feeding minimum IMO>
Your help is, as always, greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Mark Schwartz
<best regards, Anthony Calfo>
Re: Feeding of open brain coral (Trachyphyllia)
Anthony, Thanks for the reply. I tried again tonight and --
success!!
<excellent!>
It ate. I'm psyched! After it took in all the clams, there were more tentacles
out than I have ever seen. It was pretty wild.
<and so beautiful in a whole new dimension that many folks rarely see>
I will place the clam on the substrate tomorrow morning. I will also be sure to
feed twice per week, and I will make it a point to purchase other food items,
chopped squid, etc.
<yes...variety is the spice of life>
Thank you *very* much for your assistance.
<my pleasure>
It's rather hard to believe that feeding a 5 inch wide green lump some clams
could make me happy!?
<your modesty is enviable>
Sincerely, Mark Schwartz
<best regards, Anthony>
Feeding of Trachyphyllia
radiata
Gentlemen,
<cheers>
I purchased a Trachyphyllia radiata two days ago. My question concerns
feeding. I have
a red open brain that clearly exhibits feeding tentacles at night,
<the deeper water variety... green is more shallow water. T. radiata and T.
geoffroyi are now synonymous species>
which
is when I feed it (at
least twice a week -- chopped clams and/or shrimp).
<almost certainly not enough food for the coral to live 5+ years (although
likely enough for a couple of years. 3-5 times weekly if not daily for most>
The Trachyphyllia
radiata is *much*
larger during the day than at night.
<it is more effectively photosynthetic (by variety not by virtue of its
size)>
In fact, I am amazed that the
amount of 'flesh' that is
exhibited by day can be successfully withdrawn into its skeleton at
night.
It's only been two days, but I have not seen any feeder tentacles.
<much more time is needed for many corals to acclimate to new light and water
quality... be patient>
At a
LFS, they have an
Elegance coral that must be fed by day, as it closes up at night.
<all such corals can be enticed to feed most anytime with the right
food/attractant>
Is
the Trachyphyllia radiata
the same way, i.e.,
<nit by nature at all. All of these LPS feed on zooplankton by night>
I must feed it during the day while it is 'fleshy',
or will it normally display
feeding tentacles nocturnally, like my red open brain.
<only the feeding tentacles will effectively sting and draw organismal
matter. Careful not to feed large chunks of food either... very finely minced is
critical else the coral will draw it in but regurgitate it later and still
starve>
I am anxious to make sure this specimen feeds on a good meal of clam or
shrimp.
<more variety in the diet too please: frozen Gammarus, mysids and Pacifica
plankton for starters>
Also, the clerk who sold me the Trachyphyllia radiata said that he uses
a technique in his reef
tank that consists of taking freeze dried shrimp pellets and soaking
them in Selcon or Vita-Chem,
and feeding these to his corals.
<OK>
Once fully saturated, they sink quite
easily and stay in place quite
well. I just haven't had any luck getting the Trachyphyllia radiata to
take these or finely
chopped clams.
I was just wondering about your thoughts on vitamin soaked freeze dried
<whatever> as a food
adjunct to go along with finely chopped clams, shrimp, squid, etc.
FD foods are strange fare to offer and the risk of air trapping is mild but
worth mentioning. Soaking the food in Selcon is an excellent idea though. Rely
on thawed frozen meats of marine origin>
Sincerely,
Mark Schwartz
<best regards, Anthony
PS: if it interests you... see the following article on Trach reproduction
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyreproart.htm>
T. radiata brain coral
Anthony,
<cheers!>
The other day I wrote in regarding my new T. radiata. I have been
watching it at night,
and I have noticed fine hair-like tentacles (?) coming out from it. At
first I thought it was
stringy feces, but I see it every night.
<perhaps simply sweeper tentacles... released when stimulated by another
coral nearby (guaranteed for those within say 6")>
Last night I placed some finely chopped clams onto the "strings". They
grabbed and pulled in
the clam, but it remained tethered to the side of the coral -- it never
actually tried to eat
any of the clam.
<hmmm... supports the sweeper (defensive not feeding) tentacle idea>
I have had my red open brain for about 5 months, and I know what it's
tentacles look like.
I also have a tongue (plate) coral, and I know what it's tentacles look
like.
<understood... they are conspicuous>
(Side note -- I will up my feeding frequency to 3 days per week,
minimum. In your
opinion, is squid any good as a food source?
<squid is reasonable... but do include crustacea in the diet... more
natural/necessary as like substitutes for zooplankton: Gammarus, mysids,
Pacifica plankton, shredded krill, etc)>
I can get frozen clams,
shrimp, and squid
quite easily. My only concern is that squid can be, or actually is,
rubbery.)
<no worries here... protein>
Exactly what should I be looking for, feeding tentacle wise, with my T.
radiata?
If those stringy, hair-like 'things' are tentacles, how do you recommend
feeding it? They look
awfully delicate.
<watch your hands too... if one of those modified tentacles finds a small
wound (hangnail, paper cut, etc) it will light you up like a Christmas tree.
Small risk of anaphylactic shock from repetitive hits>
Sincerely, Mark Schwartz
<kindly, Anthony>
Re: T. radiata brain coral
Anthony,
I don't suppose you broke into my home and looked at my tank? :-)
<yep... you are almost out of milk and there's no more minced garlic in the
fridge, by the way>
I noticed that as soon as the lights went off, two things happened:
1) My red open brain shrank back into it's skeleton.
2) Those long tentacles (of the T. radiata) were reaching and touching the
open brain. They were spaced about 5" apart.
<just familiar/experienced... The essence of an educated guess I suppose
:)>
I moved the red open brain out of range this morning.
<very fine, my friend>
You guys don't miss much -- which is good -- because I am quite sure that I have
a few more mistakes left in me!
<no problem... we can talk for hours>
Anyway, are the feeder, not sweeper, tentacles of T. radiata similar to those of
T. geoffroyi?
<the two Types that you refer to are now classified as synonymous. The genus
Trachyphyllia is monotypic... one representative: T. geoffroyi As you have
noticed, though... two members of the (now) same species do not necessarily
tolerate each other. In fact, most corals are not tolerant of a member from
another colony>
What should I be looking for? Appearance? Location?
<just a matter of acclimation and time before it too puts out feeder
tentacles. Acclimation to new light and water flow>
I acquired a small eye dropper with which I can target feed Mysis shrimp and
Sweetwater
zooplankton.
<very cool... remember to thaw food in saltwater and to feed from a distance
(bursts of water scare some corals in)>
Thanks a bunch.
Sincerely, Mark Schwartz
<best regards, Anthony>
Green Open Brain Starving
Hello there, My green open brain coral that I have had for about 3.5 months has
taken a drastic turn for the worse. Up until about 2 weeks ago it was opening up
and looking real good. As of tonight, it looks as though I can see the skeleton
all the way around it.
<this is a very common symptom with unfed brains... although they have
symbiotic algae, they are one of the "hungriest" corals (they regular
feeding several times weekly with VERY finely minced meats of marine origin)
just to survive, let alone grow. Try mysids, pacific plankton or shred your own
meats. They must be less than 1/4" in size (very fine)>
My water checks good, ph@8.1, dKH@8.6, ca@400, specific gravity 1.025. My iodine
level is at 0.06.
<that pH needs to be higher if that is a daytime reading (drops even lower at
night)>
I looked all around the outside and didn't see any signs of gel or something
that might be drilling into it. It is sitting about 1/3 of the way up in the
tank, under 2 10000k metal halides (175w), and 2 40w florescent actinics. Don't
know what's going on!!!!
<although green open brains are higher light loving than red open brains
(deep water), they are still a low to mid light coral. Still... yours has
probably acclimated and if no paling or bleaching has occurred, please leave it
where it is... a move right now might kill it (change in light: bad)>
Any advice will certainly be appreciated.
Thanks, Charlie Ehlers
PS
I started feeding it frozen Mysid shrimp at about the same time. It seemed to
take the shrimp well. I only fed it 3 times in a period of 2-3 weeks. Did I feed
to much?
<there is the problem my friend. Not enough feeding by far. In a lower light
aquarium, 3 times weekly might still not be enough food for this animal to
survive (reach its compensation point). More feeding! Anthony>
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