Source Water Treatment For Marine Use - 03/24/2006
Hello again, Chris Stingley here in Lovely Mt. Carroll IL. Just had some questions regarding main water source for my up and coming Reef tank. I've read most of your articles and FAQ on this subject, but the wealth of material seems to have me a bit confused.
<Uh-oh.>
First of from what I've read it seems that using my tap water, mixing salt, and letting water sit for a week or so is sufficient.
<With constant circulation and good aeration, yes.>
It seems hard for me to grasp as this hobby seems so sensitive and time consuming.
<Has to do with what happens during the process. Read here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm >
Anyway I was hoping you could tell me best way of ensuring my friends don't get too angry with me.
<Premixing and storing, as you are.>
I'm not sure whether to do this or buy distilled, or something else.
<Just use the tap.>
If only way to do this right is expensive, maybe you could suggest less expensive ways for temporary use. In the 3 months I've had my tank going I've basically used tap, adding a product called Stress Coat by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,
<I wouldn't bother with this.>
and Instant Ocean salt mix.
<Is good stuff.>
Just letting it dissolve over night then adding next day. Or I've used the same process except with distilled water.
<I wouldn't use the distilled.>
Any Help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Again,
Chris Stingley
<Hope this has helped. - Josh>

Re: Unknown Creature living in Tank... Treating source water   3/21/06
Thank you for your quick reply,
<Welcome>
If it isn't harming my other inhabitants I will leave the tubiculous polychaete as is.  I had one other question regarding the water I use to do water changes and fill sump when water evaporates.  Instead of using tap water and adding conditioners to it (I rent an apt. and the tap water is full of phosphates), I was thinking of trying bottled water, like Poland Springs for my water changes instead.  Would there be any benefits to the tank, similar to that of distilled water, or would a bottled water like Poland Springs be harmful, as compared to tap water.
<Likely is of better quality... just expensive>
I tend to get a bit of green/purple algae from the tap water.
Thanks again,
Helana Gelleri
<If you intend to live here a good long while... you might consider buying, installing a reverse osmosis device... and taking it with you when you go. Bob Fenner>

Greenhouse Water Purification? - 03/16/06
Hello Crew,
<<Hello!>>
I am about finished with my greenhouse, and need some advice on water purification for make up water.
<<Mmm...where's that rascal Anthony?>>
The greenhouse will hold 2000 gallons, distributed between 16 tanks.  I have (2) 1000 gallon water containers for salt water and buffered evap replacement water.
<<cool!>>
My original plan was to use a Kold Ster-il plus DI to fill the containers. However, PolyBio Marine is being completely unreliable, and I haven't been able to get a Kold Ster-il even after placing the order around Thanksgiving via my local distributor.
<<Yes, I have too noticed these units (and the “disk” media for it) have become "unobtainable" of late.>>
I really don't want to use RO because of the waste water, and the time that it would take to refill the containers.
<<Understood>>
My local distributor suggested that I could set up some NuClear containers, one with 25 micron pre-filter, one with carbon, and the last one with the PolyBio Marine Poly-Filter pads.  He says that this would produce water quite similar to a Kold Ster-il,
<<Likely, yes>>
and apparently the pads can be obtained without a problem.
<<True...the 4"x8" and 12"x12" pads are still available.>>
Secondly, he says that placing a DI unit after the Kold Ster-il or NuClear setup would be a very bad idea because the DI resins would be used up very, very quickly because of the calcium, etc. that the Kold Ster-il or Poly-Filter Pads would pass through.  But I have seen several instances on WetWebMedia where such a setup is said to be ideal.  So, I'm confused.
<<Differing opinions...Anthony Calfo ran his own aquaculture facility for about 10 years and is a huge fan of the Kati-Ani deionization units.  Obviously not everyone's circumstances are the same, but Anthony boasts being able to get "years" of use from his resins (requires periodic "recharging").  He does state that he uses the premium German made resins to achieve this. Might I suggest you visit his forum at Marine Depot (http://www.marinedepot.com/FORUMS/Forum13-1.aspx) and get his thoughts/suggestions re your situation.>>
If I do not use a DI, then do you think that simply using the NuClear setup would produce good enough water for a coral farm?
<<Will depend some on your source water, but I think your best option to be one of the Kati-Ani units (available in different sizes to suit your requirements).  But do give Anthony a shout and get his take on it.>>
Regards,
Jerry
<<Cheers, EricR>>

Well Water Has Bubbles  - 02/20/06
Hi Folks! Once again thank you for such an informative website. Now my question. I use untreated well water for all household uses including my two freshwater aquariums. This well is an artesian well from 150' down. The problem is that when this water is pumped up to the tanks etc. it is full of millions of gas bubbles. I have read about the 'gas bubble disease' which could be caused by these bubbles but my main concern is the bubbles affect water clarity. Is there anything I can do to remove or at least reduce the amount of bubbles? Seems like the more filtration or water movement, the more bubbles form! Any and all advice would be very welcome and thanks in advance for your time and thoughts....DR
< The water should be allowed to sit still for 24 hours before using in in an aquarium. The gas is probably CO2 and here is how you will find out. Check the pH of the water straight out of the well. I bet it is under 7. CO2 gas acts like a carbonic acid in solution. As the CO2 escapes the pH will rise until a point to where it will stabilize and then can be used for fish.-Chuck>

Water changes  2/18/06
<Andrew,>
First of all, thanks for the quick response to my ammonia question. I just have a quick follow up question. You said to do water changes 1-2 times daily,
<If necessary.  You'll almost certainly need it, but let your Ammonia/Nitrite levels be your guide.>
and I'm wondering how to condition the water I'm using to replace the water I take out if I shouldn't use products like Prime that "eliminate ammonia, chlorine, and chloramine."
<Just the Ammonia part is what I'm concerned about.  Find a different water conditioner that doesn't remove Ammonia.  Chlorine and Chloramine removers are a must.>
Do I just put in straight tap water
<Don't EVER try this.  The damage that Chlorine does to a fish's gills is very quick and devastating.>
(at the appropriate temp, of course) or is there a product with which I should condition it first that doesn't starve the nitrifying bacteria by turning ammonia into ammonium? Again, thanks for your help. This site was a great find!
<You bet, there are tons and tons of different varieties.  Some of them supposedly help the fish regain their slime coat as well, but I've never looked into that; probably a load of hooey.  I usually go for the best "bang per buck" so I end up getting the one that can treat the most gallons for the smallest price.  Remember, you are only concerned about removing Chlorine, Chloramine.>
Thanks,
Andrew
<Jason N.>

Copper In Source Water - 01/13/2006
WWM Team,
<Hey Joe!>
I have researched a lot on the web, books, and your FAQ and most of this topic are about Self Inflicted Copper Levels (i.e. Ick Treatment). My concern is slightly different and info seems to be limited. I have well water and when tested came out at 0.2-0.3ppm for copper.
<Argh! That's no good.>
I am getting ready to add some Live Rock to a newly set-up tank, and need to know if this would kill the LR and I'm just wasting my money?  
<The copper would kill invert. hitchhikers. Best to solve the copper problem before adding to the tank.>
I also had plans on a Volitans and a Snowflake Moray which I know are both scaleless and sensitive to Copper. Should I be worried?
<I think you are right to be.>
What can be done to help with this (Carbon, RO, or Both)?
<I would go RO for well water.>
I was not quite planning on an RO unit but if it is needed then so be it. Didn't know if I could solve this with Carbon alone.
<I believe your safest bet is to go RO.>
Thanks as always!
Joe
<You're welcome. - Josh>

Re: Copper In Source Water - 01/13/2006
I bought 80 gallons of Purified Culligan Water for original set-up, and will be picking up an RO unit ASAP for water changes.
<I think you'll be glad to have it.>
So I'll be starting out with 0 copper or lead in the tank.
<Good stuff (as long as they stay that way).>
Thanks Josh.  
Joe
<Sure thing Joe. - Josh>

Ammonia in the drinking water   1/10/06
Hi guys, <Hello Johnny>
I have been researching the set-up of my first marine tank for about 3 months now. I still don't own any equipment at the moment except for six marine aquarium text books and the very valuable information that I have gleamed from this site.<Excellent.  In reading/researching, you are going to be aware of the requirements/needs of this hobby to be successful.> I am very nearly at the point where I will purchase some gear, I live in London and I found this information about ammonia when I was reading through my local drinking water quality report - should I be worried? <No, as it states "residual amount".  It is always best to aerate water you are going to use 24 hours before adding the salt mixture.  Doing this should rid the water of any chloramine/chlorine traces.>
Nitrite In the London area chloramine, rather than free chlorine, is used as the residual disinfectant because it is more persistent in the extensive distribution system that serves the capital. The use of chloramine as the residual disinfectant involves the addition of a small amount of ammonia to the chlorinated water just before it leaves the treatment works. Traces of residual ammonia, and the chloramine itself, can be converted naturally to nitrite within the distribution system and may give rise to contraventions of the nitrite standard.
Under the new regulations the standard for nitrite in water supply zones changed from 0.1mg/l to 0.5mg/l at the end of 2003. All of the 6,276 samples we collected for nitrite analysis in 2004 complied with this new standard.
All the Best,
Johnny. (Probably not the last time ill darken your doorstep) <Not a problem Johnny.  James (Salty Dog)>

Boiling Water For Aquarium Use 01-01-06
Hi crew.  
<Hello>
Just a quick question about water treatment.  I have a 38-gallon reef system with various pieces of coral, live rock and crushed coral for substrate.  The system has been running for over 6 months.  Every thing in the tank in thriving including a bunch green hair algae that’s been growing on my live rock for a while now.  The algae never really bothered me, as a matter of fact; it kind of made the reef system look better.  But it’s getting to the point know where it’s beginning to grow very tall and I have to keep trimming it every week.  I’ve been saving my pennies to buy an RO water filter.  Hopefully that will remedy my algae problem.  My LFS suggested that I boil my tap water and store it.  They stated that boiling tap water works as good as an RO unit.  What do you think?  
<That is completely false.  RO units remove organics and heavy metals from the water. Boiling your water will actually concentrate those elements as the water evaporates. A good example would be the ring inside a coffee pot, usually a calcium/lime build up. Boiling your water will do nothing for your algae issue. RO will help, but you will also need to make sure your tank has undetectable nitrates and phosphates to "snuff" out the algae.>
Your advise will
be greatly appreciated.
Elvin – Milwaukee, WI
<Glad to help, Travis>

Dechlorinators  12/10/05
Hi,
<Hello.>
I was wondering if using a water conditioner is important when doing a water change on a saltwater tank? I use to use one as a safe guard against chlorine but never really knew if I was wasting my money or not.
<Depends on the source water. If you are using tap, then yes a dechlorinator is necessary, if this RODI water, other than aerating it, nothing is necessary.>
Thanks,
<Welcome.>
Scott
<Adam J.>

Please Use the Site, Busting Chops Properly - 11/15/2005
Josh,
<Tony>
What do you mean by properly aged water?
<Oy, Tony, you're killin' me. It should be set up ahead of time, in stages really. Aerate freshwater at 24 hrs., add buffer and continue aeration another 24 hrs., add salt and allow to mix at least another 24 hrs. I prefer to move in 48 hr. intervals though. Please use the Google search bar and the site in general to enrich your experiences here. Here's a freebie http://www.wetwebmedia.com/waterchg.htm >
Thanks, Tony 
<Welcome. - Josh>

Big confusion with my small reef tank setup...  <<Dummies book series strikes again?>> 10/19/05
Hi,
I am very new to the saltwater hobby and recently started a small 30 gallon tank back in August with the main intention of learning how to properly care for marine life before I moved into a new home next year where I plan to have a 125 gallon or larger reef tank with some fish too.
<Sounds like a plan to me!>
Anyways I bought a book on how to set up a saltwater fish/reef tank and it advised me to use fluidized bed filter and a canister filter and also said that I could get away with tap water if a decorticator was used…
<I would never use tap water because of the amount of phosphates and other unwanted elements, etc>
  Finally I now have RO and immediately last night after mixing saltwater I noticed PH was 8.2!  With tap I could never keep it over 7.8, and when mixing saltwater I always ended up with PH 7.8 or less water!  I plan to do several big water changes in the next few days with new RO processed water.<agreed>
My question is, without breaking the bank, what types of filtration should I keep and what should I get rid of (should I change filter types altogether and get a wet/dry or something similar?)? <your filtration is not bad, a wet/dry might be better but as long as you have good biological filtration...liverock, livesand, etc
you will be fine. The mechanical is important to pull debris uneaten food, etc.> I have a fluidized bed filter, a
protein skimmer, a canister filter, about 4 watts per gallon of lighting, 20 pounds of live rock, 2 damsels, 2 clownfish, and 1 Bicolor Pseudochromis, and a few hermit crabs.   Basically I want to get the water up to par and then begin adding calcium and some type of alkalinity booster.
<yes, it sounds like you are on the right track>
Any advice you could give me on what would be an ideal setup with what I have to work with would be appreciated because I really want to make this work and it has really been frustrating for me the past few weeks.  Before I discovered RO processed water I killed a brain coral, plate coral, melted mushroom corals off their rocks and killed one fish…  I will never even let tap get near my tank again.<Yea adding tap water to an aquarium can be a death trap, I would only use filtered water or RO water. It sounds as if your filtration is more than adequate for the bio-load that you have in your aquarium. In my opinion it is not worth it to purchase an expensive
wet/dry filter. You might want to setup a refugium (you can find more info on that by using the search feature
on wetwebmedia.com)>
Thanks
Dave Sheehan <Good luck, IanB>

Water treatment 8/22/05
Bob, in Chapter 4 of your book, talking about source water, you state that as long as you age and circulate tap water for a week, we shouldn't have any worries about poisoning.  I want to fill my tank with tap water to test everything out, and would like to know if I could just let it circulate through my tank and wet/dry for a couple of weeks and then add salt and go from there.
<Yes...>
I'm pretty sure my tap water is nasty,
<Nasty? If it has much in the way of "things" you don't want, you might want to consider filtering it ahead of use... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
And the linked files above>
so I could let it circulate for longer if advised.  I could also add a water conditioner if that would help.  I don't plan on any delicates, just an aggressive FOWLR if that helps.  Thank you again.  Mike
<Mmm, you might want to have your tap checked for at least nitrate and phosphate content... by the LFS, your test kits... to avoid algal proliferation problems. Bob Fenner>

Water 8/2/05
My local fish store is closed because they are moving. I buy all my freshwater from them. I use it to replace the evaporated water in my saltwater tank. I need to add water to the tank tomorrow and I don't have any. What can I use until they get the store back open.
<Likely just tapwater... of about the same temperature... if this is some small percentage (ten, fifteen) of total volume. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>

Water Quality on Water Changes 8/2/05
Hello,
I have what I hope will be a quick question.  In regards to the water used to perform a water change to my reef aquarium, I was wondering if I should be adding calcium to that water while it is being stored.
<Mmm, not likely, but...>
I currently am storing it in a 30 gallon tank with a power head.  I add the RO/DI water, salt and PH buffer and was not sure if I should also be adding calcium to that as well.  Thanks for your help.
<Depends... on how much calcium you want/need... most all salt mixes have "extra" biomineral content... if you find (by testing) that your system is deficient (usually 350 ppm calcium is a good minimum), you can bolster new water... in a few ways... These are discussed in places on WWM... can be searched... Bob Fenner>

Public water problems 8/1/05
Bob: I am a little new to this chat room forum stuff, but I have been playing with marine aquariums since the late sixties. I have recently moved from one state to another and have now had to go from well water to city water. This has presented a whole new world for me. I can not seem to maintain ph, my nitrates are up and down, water is constantly cloudy. I do 90 gal water changes every month thinking this will help. Not. <Welcome!  Adam here today.  The unpredictability of any source water is the reason for the popularity of various water purification systems including RO, DI and RO/DI.  I would strongly suggest looking into one of these.  In the mean time... if the quality of your source water is the problem... large water changes will only make it worse.  I would ask the water authority for a detailed seasonal water analysis and ask as well if they use chlorine or chloramine (the latter is harder to get rid of) and if they use phosphate based corrosion inhibitors.>
I am using a life reef wet dry twin tower. Protein skimmer is not in system as I need to get a new pump for it. I know you will ask me many questions about what is in the water and feeding. The water here is very soft, ph seems to be right at 7.0 no heavy metals. I do feed live clams after I freeze them, silver sides, freeze dried plankton and Spirulina pellets and tablets, some frozen squid that comes as a medley pack.  This is getting long. Any help would be good.   Ron Downs <A lot of aquarists get spoiled by hard alkaline well water that maintains calcium and alkalinity without any supplements.  Your new soft source water may be lacking in these relative to what you are used to, so you may have to make up for this with the use of Kalkwasser, or another balanced regime of calcium and buffer additives.  Much info is available on these here at WWM.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Use of dehumidifier condensate in fish tanks 7/7/05
I have a 90 gallon tank, which is home to 7 fish, 2 crabs, and about 20 different species of corals. In my basement, I have a 30 gallon refugium with a 5 inch sand bed, and a 30 gallon sump. I also have a 20 gallon fresh water sump that tops off the sump whenever the float switch indicates that enough evaporation has occurred to warrant it. Now for the question...
I have a dehumidifier in my basement. Would I be able to use the water collected in the dehumidifier to replenish the water in my fresh water sump?
<Mmm, I would not. Too much likelihood of contaminants...>
On the one hand, I would think that this water would be free of nitrates, phosphates, salts, metals, etc, and be as good as using RO or de-ionized water. On the other hand, every dehumidifier comes with the obligatory warnings that the water collected is not a source of potable water.
<For good reasons>
Your two cents worth would be greatly appreciated (five cents worth, if you choose to include an explanation as to your opinion).
Feel free to contact me with any questions, comments, or concerns.
Mark A. Kaczynski
<Mark, I know it sounds like a good idea... but I've seen this tried before, even been on boats where we were allowed to rinse down with this condensate (but not allow it in eyes or mouths!)... I wouldn't use it. Bob Fenner>

Re: dehumidifier water 7/9/05
Well, your opinion is good enough for me. I was just thinking that since the dehumidifier is only about 10 feet away from the sump, any contamination present in the dehumidifier condensate would probably already be present in the sump, but there must be more to the molecular biology than meets the eye...
<Indeed... turns out these units pick up other junk from the air, some have metal parts that add...>
Feel free to contact me with any questions, comments, or concerns.
Mark A. Kaczynski
<Bob Fenner>

Effective Way To Raise pH Of Water Change? - 06/28/05
Hello:
<<Howdy!>>
Since my pH is on the low side in my 9 month old 90 gal reef,(7.9 to 8.0)- (the usual Ca reactor woes).
<<Umm, maybe...back-off on the CO2...reduce the effluent rate...add a vegetable refugium on a reverse lighting schedule.>>
I am looking for a way not to add to this problem by doing monthly water changes with water that has low pH as well.
<<Always a good plan.>>
My R/O water when mixed with Instant Ocean to a SG of 1.025, has a pH of around 7.9 and DKH of 12.
Hmm...aerating/buffering the water before mixing in the salt?>>
Until now, I have not been aerating this raw water mix for 24 hours as suggested by many.
<<Ah...ok...(see the puzzled look on my face?)>>
My question is, assuming that the pH in my R/O water/salt mix does not go higher with aeration, what would be an effective way to raise the pH in this water without raising the alkalinity?  I realize that there are different opinions regarding buffering R/O water.  I would certainly appreciate yours.
<<My pleasure <G>.  I find that one-part Seachem Reef Buffer mixed with two-parts baking soda does a dandy job.  I would still aerate for 24 hrs. to drive off excess CO2 and increase dissolved oxygen.>>
I once recently tried ReefBuilder.  I used 1 tsp in a 5 gallon bucket of R/O water mixed with 2 3/4 cups of Instant Ocean.  It raised the DKH to 20 and caused the Ca to precipitate.  The water remained cloudy and would not clear.
<<Water/salt mixes should be aerated for a minimum 24 hrs. AFTER mixing before adding such products, several days is even better...chemical reactions still going on after salt "looks" to have dissolved)>>
Reef water: Temp 80, Alk 10.3, Ca 470, refugium lit 24/7.  
Thanks for all your help.  
Paul   
<<Regards, Eric R.>>

What is the best H20 to use in water changes?
Hello Crew,
<Ethan>
Thanks again for all the help these past few months I have learned a huge amount from your website and email communications, thank you!
<Welcome>
I have been doing 10% water changes every 10 days (I have a 120g set up) fish and inverts are doing awesome. I have been using distilled water for my changes (with Instant Ocean) and then testing pH/Salinity/ and SG before adding to the main tank. Is there anything else I should be doing? Is using distilled water ok?
<Distilled is okay... just expensive and a chore to lug around... I would look into a simple reverse osmosis device and storage options for same here... Other folks here prefer deionization... some like both, in tandem>
Thank you
<Again, you're certainly welcome. Bob Fenner>
Ethan H. Morris DVM

Kent Salt vs. Coralife
HI!! It is 1:30 a.m., and I came across some info on your web, which raised a few questions and concerns in my mind, but after a 1 1/2 hour search, I am going to be lazy and just ask you awesome people for your wonderful and insightful opinion. (a little brown nosing never hurt anyone! lol) First what I have been doing......I noticed when I used Coralife salt, my calcium was good. Once I switched to KENT I had to do a ton of partial water changes to bring it down from over 700!!!  
What is the deal?? That is just one thing......Now, when started out, a LFS kid said when they do water changes they mix the water and salt and let it sit until the salt is dissolved and dump it in. (they like the Coralife as it dissolves fast...boy does it!) Sooooo, since I have a softener to R/O, the kid said I do not have to bubble it for days, just salt and mix with power head and measure gravity and dump....... mmmm....that may account for my 2.5 dKH and 8.0 PH. 
<The proper way to prepare seawater is to aerate the freshwater 24 hours, then add the salt. The aeration process rids the freshwater of any CO2 present, which will lower dKH and hence pH.> 
Though they NEVER deviate from those readings. (even after adding sea buffer, it goes up a little and comes back down. 
<I prefer Sea Chem's Reef Builder in this regard.> 
(though I think I feed too much.....2ce a day, and several things....I am going to cut back on it!) I figured I have (2) 270 gpm power heads for my 55 gallon (one pointed at the surface for good agitation, one toward the bottom for surface stir and an "up to 65 gallon" pump, which I don't use an air stone as that causes micro bubbles. I just leave the tube open and wedge between live rock for major bubbles and surface breakage. I also have a Red Sea pro deluxe Prizm skimmer for up to 300 gallons (and YES the newer ones with the media area and "surface" skim adapter DOES work great!! Just clean the neck!). 
<I have one and I agree.> 
So, really if the water was not "pre-aerated", then isn't the above circulation good enough to oxygenate the water after it is added? 
<Yes, but I believe your problem lies with excess CO2 in the make up water.> 
So far I have not had a problem except when I did use the Kent and the calcium skyrocketed, my dKH was 2.25 and ph 7.9. 
<dKH does have an affect on calcium readings.> 
Also, as a cheat, I found if I microwave 2 cups of water for 2 minutes out of each gallon, it puts the temperature right with my tank temp of 78. I really don't want to buy a 3rd heater! Any insights? Thanks! 
<I wouldn't use a microwave to heat makeup water. Micro wave ovens produce a wavelength of 2.45 giga-hertz per second. All waves change the molecules from positive to negative with each cycle of the wave. These changes happen millions of times a second, and, especially with water molecules. I like to believe the polarity change of the molecules does have some effect on the molecules in sea water. 
<My advice, aerate your freshwater 24 hours to rid it of CO2, add salt, aerate another 24, then see what your readings are in the new seawater. James (Salty Dog)> 

Kent Salt vs. Coralife
Hi, Thanks for your quick reply.  I will do the 24 hour fresh/24 hour
salt aeration.  Though I have to say, the other way has saved my butt,
since I have had an ammonia jump .4 (dead snail...found it) having
lower PH has probably saved the fish's life!  Would you agree? <It sure helps> I was
told AmQuel + was a bad product for saltwater, but to me neutralizing
ammonia and nitrates seem paramount!  What do you think? <In an established system without overstocking and good maintenance, ammonia should never be a problem.> I have been
doing several partial water changes with no real affect on ammonia,
except when I neut. it with AmQuel, it does come back the next day.  I
have taken out all the live rock and swished it around, dug through my
1 - 1 1/2" sandbed (where I found a Nass. snail chowing the remnants of
something...took it away from him, I mean...ewwww!)  I did a 50% water
change and added AmQuel + but my ammonia is back to .4.  What is the
deal?  I am using fastest ammonia test and it has worked right in the
past few weeks.  I figured because this is a powder it would read
right, and it did, just to have the ammonia come back.  WHAT IS GOING
ON????? <Adding AmQuel prevents the bio system from readjusting to the levels it needs to be at since it quells the ammonia, and that's why I believe it is coming back.  I don't believe in using this stuff as a routine.> Should I just move everyone to a QT and let the tank
"cycle"???  It is about 8 weeks old and the contents are:
3" Yellow Tang "bubbles"
2' Spotted Snake Eel "spot"
2" White Molly..... "molly"
(4) 3/4" Neon gobies
8 little hermits
2 Nassarius. snails
4 left of the "turbo" really small
3 BIG Turbos "Larry, curly and Moe"
1 sandsifter "Patrick"  PS: Do they eat leftover food....shrimp
silverside slivers?
1 3" BTA
Would they be okay in a 20 gallon??? <No> I think I may have to leave the
BTA snake eel, star, snails and crabs in tank as the QT has the
treatment for tail rot.  Need advise!! <Your tank is overstocked with the two foot eel in there, that is just adding to the ammonia problem.  I have a rule of thumb....one cubic inch of fish per five gallons, that is cubic not just length.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks! <You're welcome>
Carrie :)

Just How Small Is This Place!? - 04/27/05
Hello everyone! Quick question: Will dechlorinated tap water harm such fishes as, triggers, clownfish, puffers, wrasse? I have no room in my small apartment to put an R/O unit and these are the fish I will have in my display tank.
< Should be fine, I kept fish-only systems for years doing just that. More important here in my opinion is a diligent schedule of water changes and a hefty filtration system to handle the messy feeders. >
Thanks
< Welcome...Eric R. >

Rotten Egg smell from Novaqua and Amquel Plus ?
Hi Crew,
<Mario>
Back in January, I purchased online a bottle of Amquel plus and Novaqua by Kordon. I used them for the first time on a routine water change on Wednesday (Mar. 16), and did not notice any smell then.
But, when doing another water change today (Mar 19), I notice both bottles after being opened had a rotten egg- like smell that also filled the room.
<Don't use these... They have "gone bad"... should be returned to your dealer, ultimately to Kordon/Novalek for testing....>
Also, when I put the lid back on the bottles the smell was still on the bottles, but an hour later the smell has diminished from the bottle with the lid on. But, if I open them the smell is there again. 
<Yes... biological, microbial in origin... "Critters" are living on some of the organics in the products>
I keep both bottles in a cool place in the bathroom with the others, away from any heat or drafts. In the past I used Start Right by Jungle, and this product did not have any smell. There is no expiry date on the bottles. I noticed the drops that I add to the replacement water does not make the water smell. In other words, I have not odor coming from the water.
Is this smell normal? Even if the smell is not in the replacement water can it do harm to the fishes or plants? Should I continue using them if the smell continues?
Thanks,
Mario D.
<Not normal, Dangerous, should NOT be used. Should be returned to manufacturer through your source. Bob Fenner> 

Dechlorination, filtration
Bob,
<James, for Bob.>
First off, I'd like to say, in case it hasn't been said enough, what a pleasure it is to experience the warmth and humor in your writings. It is always nice to have a hoot whilst one is extracting scalp hair, gnashing teeth, etc. I exaggerate about the hair, teeth... this hobby has been a bit consuming at times... fortunately my wife loves me and tolerates my
incessant monologues on the subject... but overall pleasurable in so many ways. It's great to have folks to share with/learn from. 
<My wife is ditto on the subject>
Just finished reading your article on tap water treatment. A statement in there piqued my interest... if I'm getting this right, you are saying is ok to do periodic 10-15% water changes with chloraminated tap water, perhaps better than using even a "true" chemical dechloraminator?
<I've been doing this for quite some time. I aerate my new water 24 hours before adding the salt mix. Never had a problem yet.> 
Would a conventional Brita-type drinking water filter remove enough chloramines to obviate the use of a chemical dechloraminator altogether?
<I would say yes> 
On filtration: my 12g is a "Nano Cube" tank from JBJ. Briefly, the tank integrates a small sump that houses sponge filter, ceramic rings, activated carbon, and a gaggle of bio-balls (not part of a wet-dry filter, they just sit in the water). 
Problem is, there is no way to isolate the sump from the tank. So when I remove the sponge (or anything else, but especially the sponge) for cleaning, a large cloud of particulate debris explodes back through the intake vents into the tank. Is this potentially harmful to the inhabitants, i.e. releasing toxic waste products into the water? 
<I don't think so, whether it stayed in the sump or got pumped back to the tank, the waste is still in the water, just in a different location.> 
I could probably engineer (um, hack) a way to at least partially block off the intake vents... or increase frequency of sponge-cleanings (been doing it monthly)..
<I clean my filter weekly> 
..to reduce buildup of wastes in the sponge, but also decrease biological filtering capacity, increase aggravation...
<I don't believe you have any worries, Dave. James (Salty Dog)>

Ozone Use/Chlorine Detox
Hello - Is it possible to use ozone in my SW mixing barrel to destroy or otherwise neutralize any present chlorine or chloramines? I'm thinking that ozone probably won't destroy chlorine, as the two are used together in spas, but it might break apart chloramine and neutralize (oxidize) the resulting '-amine' part. I should know this simple chemistry by now, sorry for the 'durr' question ... but I cannot find an answer anywhere on WWM. 
<Ozone works best in oxidizing organics. Why would you want to go through the expense of using ozone anyway, when just using a product such as SeaChem's Prime will do the trick. Here is a link to water conditioning on the WWW. http://www.google.com/custom?q=Conditioners&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com  James (Salty Dog)>

Really bad well water? 2/25/05
Thanks, Anthony.
<always welcome>
If you'll forgive me, I'll burden you with what additional information I have, in case you see a "bingo" in here somewhere.
<the dog or the game?>
Testing the source water is problematic for several reasons:
1. Two different wells have been used intermittently over the last 18 months.
<ah...>
2. Well water from a single well is not necessarily consistent over time.
<er...>
3. Water from a well that has sat idle for months could be different from water from the same well after continuous use.
<ah...>
4. Water used for the marine tank always went through a limestone acid neutralizer installed in the house to correct low pH of water from our primary well.
<bingo?>
5. Water used for the marine tank frequently also went through a softener intended to correct hardness from the neutralizer.
<yikes! you may have just won a hairy kewpie doll! Softener as in salt pillow cation exchanger? If you use(d) salt to recharge this unit, then it imparted excess chloride ions to the water which accumulate and can be problematic over time>
For these reasons, my data on source water is not complete. 
<agreed... but you do make a good sales pitch (to yourself!) for being a fine candidate to own a two-column deionizer and be done with all of the guesswork>
But here are the noteworthy pieces of data I have:
1. Before going through any treatment within the house, a test on our secondary well showed notable manganese (.76 mg/l). I understand our softener would remove this, but this water did not always go through the softener.
2. After going through the neutralizer and softener, water from our primary well showed copper of .3 mg/l. 
<aieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! you are killing me. Er... them aquatic critters too>
This test was run a couple years ago (before we had a marine tank) and then forgotten about until I looked it up last night.
3. Our secondary well was inadvertently used for several months this fall, during which time problems very slowly developed in the marine tank. When I discovered the secondary well in use, I switched back to the primary (the one that earlier showed copper) and made a new batch of salt water. This primary well (which originally showed pH of 5.8)...
<ughhh... I just become incontinent>
....had by this time sat idle for about 6 months. When I first used the salt water made after switching back to this well, I had the clear and immediate impression that snails were stressed. 
<heheehahahahhahahhhahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa...ahhoo. Ah, yep... I can see sources of stress my friend>
(I wonder what metals could have dissolved in that water while it sat so long in acid water.)
4. When the snail stress was observed, about a month ago, we added the Kent Toxic Metal Sponge and Poly filter, and started using RO/DI water exclusively. I checked a first PolyFilter after being in use 26 days -- brown, maybe slightly yellowish. I checked a second new PolyFilter after 4 days - same color, just lighter overall. 
<now that does not sound bad at all>
These PolyFilters were in the Fluval ahead of the Kent Toxic Metal Sponge.
<I'm not sure this is the most capable product to deal with your serious issues here>
Since switching to RO/DI and beginning use of Kent TMS and PolyFilter, I've done 10 water changes, with average amount replaced of 3.5 gallons in a 75 gallon tank. Would more aggressive water changing be advisable?
<yes, please... larger water changes are more effective by far>
I still see no snails. I see an occasional very small worm and an occasional amphipod. Xenia and Toadstool corals look reasonably good. BTA doesn't look good. (Clownfish were removed earlier to give the BTA a break, but they always looked fine). Could the water be OK now, but I am still seeing delayed effects of an earlier problem?
<yes>
I don't expect you to spend hours thinking about this, but if anything jumps out at you, I'd appreciate hearing about it.
<I'll bring my own Dasani when I visit you ;)>
Thanks again, Tom
<It seems like your source water is... er... sometimes less than optimal. I strongly encourage you to rely only on DI water to be aerated, buffered/reconstituted. For peace of mind and consistency if nothing else. Anthony>

What to test for from my well water?
Five years ago I had a 125 gallon salt tank. But used it mainly for carnivorous fish. I have been dreaming of getting into a reef setup. I recently found a great deal. And have just purchased a 750 gallon tank. I now live with well water and want to make sure I know what I'm getting out of the ground. I do plan on getting it tested, but have a few specific questions in regards to the required tests.
My questions are:
1. Which tests do you consider absolutely necessary since their seems to be and endless amount of things to test for.
<I would consider Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Chlorine, Copper, pH, and Hardness to be necessary tests when determining whether or not well water is suitable for use in your reef tank to be.>
2. I would like to know what certain elements in my water would dictate either my using RO, or RO/DI, or just Kold. I really do not want to tax my well with what I understand to be a wasteful RO system. Unless absolutely necessary.
<I, personally recommend that everyone uses an RO/DI system for their reef tank. Many units have lower waste water to clean water ratios. However, if you feel so inclined to use your well water, discovering traces of Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Chlorine, or Copper would serve as a red flag, and should deem the well water unsuitable. Low pH and low hardness are not make-it-or-break-it factors, but can cause many headaches down the road.>
PS. Your site seems to be the most complete I have found for information.  After reading a ton of previous questions I see their are endless possibilities with how best to set up systems.
<You've hit the nail on the head.>
I thought I had a plan until finding this tonight. Now I know I better spend a little more time gaining some knowledge before setting it up.  Thanks for your time and expertise.
<Glad I could be of assistance, Mike G>

What to test for from my well water? - II
Wow, what a great/quick response. Thank you.
<You're welcome.>
Would it be sufficient to just use my RO when preparing to do a water change? Or is it recommended that you also leave it running 24 hours a day to aid in filtering the tank? Can you recommend any manufactures?
<What do you mean by "filtering the tank?" An RO/DI unit takes tap water, or, in your case, well water, and converts it into a much more reef-appropriate water. You use it to prepare water for water changes and for top-off, but hooking it up to a reef as a filter, which I assume you want to do, would convert the saltwater to freshwater, and waste much of the water. Before you knew it, your 750 gallon tank would be half full of near fresh water.>
I was told to buy Aqua Medic products.
<Which products to buy is completely your choice.>
I'm considering buying:
1. Aqua Medic Turbo Floater 5000 @ 975 GPH skimmer.
2. Osmotic 4 stage R/O 300 GPD
3. Riff 2000 Wet/Dry
Any feeling on these in particular?
<1 and 2 look good to me, but I would never personally recommend a wet/dry unit on a reef tank. It serves only as a nitrate factory.>
Thanks again, I will hold on the questions until I further educate!
<No need. This is a place to get answers and to help you. We don't mind answering your questions at all, Mike G>

Source Water Problems
I have read your website over and over (about a year) and must thank you. This is my first question as to tell you how much you site is of value. I couldn't find it in your search bar.
<Well, thank you so much for the kind words! We're happy to bring it to you! Scott F. here today>
My problem is the ammonia .50/nitrate 10 in my tap water. Could be worse but could also be a lot better.
<Sure could be!>
I never really worried about testing it before because my old house's (rental) water read good. About a year ago we bought a house a couple of blocks from our old one. I figured same area, same water quality so I never bothered to test it. I've never had any ammonia show in my tanks even after the move. All of my FW tanks are doing great though. Granted they were cycled long before the move and I used a lot of their old water to set them up with. They see very steady water changes and a lot of me. Anyways, after we had moved I set up a saltwater tank. It is a ten gallon with a ten gallon sump/refugium under it. I don't have anything in there besides 20 pounds of live rock and 10 pounds of sand. I still plan to add more to my refugium down the road but I'm not in a hurry to stock my system.
<Good. Take it slow and steady!>
It has been running for about 3 months. My tank is always reading what my tap water is reading since I do daily water changes. Is this too much? Or should I hold back some?
<That's a bit too much, particularly in a tank that doesn't seem to have settled in yet. You should actually avoid water changes while the system is cycling. I am a big fan of frequent small water changes, but daily is too disruptive, IMO. Back off a bit.>
I'm wanting to save what little critters and bacteria that is in the rock as possible. It seems it doesn't have enough time to break down before I dump more into it. I would of thought by now it would be able to break it down. Since I'm not really getting any where would I be able to use my 125g cichlid tanks water for my small water changes for the time being. I know very strange question but it seems better than what I'm using now.
<Actually, it kind of makes sense!>
Normally I wouldn't think of it but I have very stable systems that are matured with a routine of good water changes. I have never had ammonia in there for the last 4 yrs. Everything is 0 in the tank with a very steady pH of 8.2. I still do weekly water changes and testing on all my tanks. The reason I think this one might be better is because of the steady pH and 0 NO2, NO3, and ammonia. I'm wanting to do this until I get a RO unit even though I haven't heard of anybody doing this. Tell me what pitfalls I'm looking at (even though you already answered me as you read. 
Thanks for your time, Josh
<Well, Josh, if your source water is problematic (and it seems that it is), I'd strongly consider acquiring and using an RO/DI unit to improve the quality. This can pay real dividends down the line. Hang in there, and let us know if we can be of further assistance. Regards, Scott F.>

Tap water alkalinity
Thu, 3 Feb 2005
Hello James, and thanks for responding! <Your welcome>
First question, yes I have calibrated the monitor.  I haven't retested it for a couple of weeks, but I have plenty of solution to do so again, if you think I should.<No>  I hadn't realized that my ph was low, because the test kits that I had been using showed that it was okay.  I don't care for the matching-up color tests very well!  Too much
second-guessing. <Agree, sometimes the dyes don't seem to match the color chip.>
As far as the fish go, I have 6 Chromis.  Three weeks ago I had 7, but one died day two.  Didn't seem to have anything wrong with it, just didn't take well to its new home.  I have a few snails somewhere in there, and 4 little cleaner crabs.  One thing I found that I'm doing that doesn't seem to be recommended is that I have an undergravel
filter on the tank.  I've had this tank set up for around 5 years or so, and tried to set everything up according to the Conscientious Marine Aquarist.  In the book, it stated that undergravel filters were perfectly okay, but from reading the forums on Reefcentral, I think I'm gonna take out the plates and my substrate and start over again. <Ah, your problem is at hand.  UG plates are OK if you thoroughly clean the substrate at least every three months with a gravel cleaner type syphon. Your UG system is more than likely a hydrogen sulphide gas producer which is extremely dangerous to the inhabitants.>  I really want to have the pretty white sand bed that I've seen on people's posts, but couldn't ever use it with the undergravel filter.
My substrate that I have now is a bunch of little shells, and It is almost impossible to keep it clean-looking.  It really wasn't much of a problem when I didn't have the pc's, but the tank sure doesn't look very nice.  Do you think the substrate could be causing some of my
problems?  It is several years old. <I believe it is causing all your problems.  I certainly would tear it down and replace with a sand bed.  If you do not have at least 1 1/2 lbs of live rock per gallon which would be your bio filter, then I would suggest the use of a wet/dry filtering system.  
I do use a skimmer, although after buying it I have read where others think it a piece of crap (Seachem),<I wasn't aware that Seachem made a skimmer.  Are you sure it's not a SeaClone?> but it does pull out quite a bit of
gunk.  I also have a canister filter running, and have added a hang on whisper filter.<I would use Chemi-pure in the canister filter.  This product does remove quite a bit of organic waste and is economical.> I have a powerhead attached to the undergravel filter plate.  I have live rock (I think 45 lbs), but it's been several years
when I bought the first group, so don't remember for sure.  I had clown fish in the tank for years, and they got so mean that I couldn't put any other fish in there.  I also had a chocolate chip starfish for about 5 years.  I finally got rid of the old fish, and would like to start again.  The Chromis are not supposed to be quite so mean! <Very peaceful fish>
I must have read what the water parameters were supposed to be wrong, because I thought the alk wasn't supposed to be that high.  I just looked it up in the book and it says alk 2.5-3.5 meq/l is an acceptable range.  This too must have changed since Mr. Fenner came out with this book! <An acceptable range is 8-12DKH.  Just multiply the meq/l by 2.8 to get that value.> I've been freaking out on this for nothing!  Earlier this week I
mixed a new batch of water for my next change, and had added marine buffer to it to match my ph.  When I tested it earlier today, the alk was 14, calcium 420.  I was thinking about dumping it out, because I
thought the alk was way off. <I wouldn't add anything to the make up water.  It is suppose to have near correct levels to start with.  Alkalinity buffers should only be added as needed.  With the organic waste of that UG system, I'm sure your buffering capacity doesn't last too long.>
Could the old undergravel plate and substrate be causing my calcium to
vanish? <You have a "witches brew" with that UG plate.  Get rid of it.> I would really like to get the coralline growing again, and from what I've read, I must be able to keep the calcium up for this to happen.  It has spread a very little bit, but not anything like it used to. <Once you make your changeover, let the system run a week, then start checking your levels.  SeaChem's liquid calcium is an excellent product to get that coralline growing.>
Thanks for letting me pick your much more intelligent brain than mine! <One's opinion>
I love fish, but I hate the science/chemistry stuff!  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! <Don't let the testing scare you off Jacquie, they are just indicators of water quality. The ph being one of the better indicators of poor water quality.  Good luck.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jacquie

New to salt water aquariums
    Hi my name is Trent and I have had a 46 gallon freshwater aquarium set up for a year now and things are going great.  My uncle is giving me his 55 gallon and I'm going to use it for a salt water aquarium. Since I'm new to salt water I don't really understand how to do water changes.  Do you store mixed water in a separate container and then just fill your tank up with that?  Do you need to add anything to the water besides dechlorinator and salt?  Do you need to heat the separate container? that's all my questions for now
<Mmm, plenty for you to read. Please start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
See all those blue lines? Those are Articles and FAQs... on marine set-up... Read on my friend. Bob Fenner>

Sand Depth Query
Dear Bob & Staff, <Good morning! Ryan with you today.>
Thanks for all the great advice in the past. I am at the end of a battle with Cyanobacteria. <Tough battle!> Which I'm happy to say I have won with the help of all the great info on this site. My next question is about water make up. I use a very cheap tap water filter with a ion-exchange resin. (all I can afford at the moment) I have a 10 gallon container that I use to make up my water. In the past I have only aerated it about two hours before I added buffers and started to use it in my tank. In reading previous Q & A you advise to aerate over night. I have also seen a drop in Alkalinity. Do I have to add a buffer and alkalinity boost to my make up water. <Buffer yes, alkalinity no.  Unless your make-up water has serious issues.  Have you tested it?> It seems when I add just the buffer alone and test the tank the next day alkalinity seems to drop? <yes, unless you've got issues that I stated above.> Second question I have is my LFS told me I should remove my 1" of live sand. He said that either I should have a DSB (which I thought about but decided cost and moving the rock was not an option right now) or nothing at all. <I'd go with half inch or less.>  The tanks that they have
both ways. He said live sand adds to Phosphate and silica problems. <Hmm...That's load of Cyanobacteria, right there.  If you pick a silica-free sand, such as Southdown, how could it add silica to your water column?  Phosphates are the same story.  Just inquire about the make-up of the sand, and the rest is easy.>  What is your feelings on this? <Stated.  Good luck! Ryan>

Tap water vs. RO water
Dear crew,
Just a short query.  Is it really absolutely truly positively and unconditionally necessary to use RO/DI water as top off water and when mixing artificial salt water? :-)  
<< I use tap water.  Always will.  But it is safer to add RO water.  I think you get more algae growth with tap water, but I like that. >>
I have a 75 gal FOWLR running and have been using tap water treated with chlorine and chloramine remover.  RO/DI water is quite expensive here in my place.
<< I don't even remove chlorine, but it is a good idea.  Better safe than sorry.  However filtration and feeding can be more of an issue, so focus your attention there. >>
Thanks a lot,
Carlos
<<  Blundell  >>

"Prime" smell
Hello, I have a question about "Prime" dechlorinator manufactured by Seachem.  I've read on here that dechlorinators that have a formalin smell are not to be used.  I don't know what the smell is, but Prime has a pungent odor.  Also, it says that it provides a slime coat.  I also read on this site that a dechlorinator that causes a slime coat is not necessarily a good thing.  Is this a good product?  I like the way it doesn't cause my protein skimmer to go nuts like Amquel does.  Thank you, and I look forward to hearing from your advice. Gary <Hey Gary, my experience with dechlorinators is the cheaper they are the better they are.  Dechlor is a great one and it's very cheep.  I don't think Prime is going to bother your tank, but from now on go for the cheap stuff!  Good Luck, LinearChaos> <<A note re DeChlor... this sodium thiosulfate (aka hyposulfite) product is ONLY useful for chlorine... it will NOT detoxify chloramines (which almost all municipalities utilize)... nor do anything else. RMF>>

Tap water filtration
Hi there,
<Hello John>
Since I don't have enough money to buy........tap water filter (reverse osmosis...and etc)...that cost $100 or more.......and buying cartridges that are costly.  
<Umm, let's stop right here... what is it about your source water that is of concern? There are some specialty and intolerable water conditions by various kinds of aquatic life... but by and large tapwater simply treated can be used on the vast majority>
I am just wondering if I already have an extra emperor 280 power filter (will be using black diamond filter cartridge and 4 ounces of Seachem bio matrix on the extra cartridge....plus bio-wheel)  ...in a 10 gallon aquarium.......................can I just put unfiltered water in this set-up for 2 weeks.........................then use this water to replace 25% of my 30 gallon tank every time I make water change?
<Likely so. You can request an analysis from your water provider as to the chemical and physical composition of the product they're providing you.>
will this 2 week filtered water by emperor 280 power filter ...............be a safe water to use?  ammonia, chlorines, nitrates, nitrites, and other bad stuff........eliminated after 2 weeks?
<Very likely so. I take it you intend to treat new water this way, then use it to change water in your main/display tank.>
thanks so much,
Antonio
<You are welcome. Bob Fenner>

Tap water filtration...follow-up question
Hello,
<Hi again>
I forgot to add that (with my email below) .....during that 2 week filtering.........I will also add....Kordon Amquel (or any other brand), to instantly remove ammonia, chlorine, and chloramines.   
with everything stated..........will my plan work?  do you have any suggestions?
thanks,
Antonio
<Should be fine. You might want to invest in some water quality test kits to be able to check. Bob Fenner>

Using Dehumidifier Water in a Tank (9/7/04)
Hello WWM Crew, <Hi! Steve Allen tonight.>
This is the most informative sites I have ever visited. <Glad to hear, I have learned a great deal here too.> Thanks for all the wonderful advice thru other peoples questions. Anyway, This is going to sound silly but I'm going to ask anyway. Do you think water from a Dehumidifier would be something I could try for top off water. I thought it might be more pure than tap water? Considering it is not treated with any chemicals. We use it to water the plants and they seem to be doing very well with it. My LFS guy told me to give it a try. But I have kind of lost faith in his judgment. (some not so great advice) Wish I would have stumbled onto your site earlier. Could have done things so much better and saved many hundreds of dollars along the way.
Thanks again!! Jim
<Here are some reasons I would not try this. 1. The de humidifier probably has metal parts (perhaps copper) that could leach toxic metal ions into the water. 2. The water in such devices tends to get contaminated with fungi and bacteria that could be harmful. Those are just two things off the top of my head. May I suggest that an RO/DI system would be a sound investment to provide pure water?>

Hard Water 9/7/04
I have some updates and more questions.  I decided to leave my tank alone and setup a 10gallon that I had as a spare.  I used fresh water, not RO, mixed the salt, heated and aerated for a days or so.  Tested the water and found the alk to be through the roof at over 15 meg/L.  
<indeed... it underscores how important it is to buffer RO/DI water before salting it... as the manufacturers presume a certain mineral hardness of average tap water among the many users of their products to get the alkalinity needed>
I noticed that the water began to cloud and then everything got coated with a hard white film. I can hardly scrape it off my glass or heater.  I got suspicious and I measured my tanks alk and it was also high at 5 meq/L and PH at 8.1.  So I thought since I'm not using RO water I would try the 10gallon again with RO to see if my water was bunk.  So got RO water, aerated it and added instant ocean salt mix.  Heated it for 4 hour or so to the right temperature and measured the stats.  PH at 8.1 +/- .1 and alk was again over 10 meq/L.  I left it and after 12hrs I got the white coating and white stuff precipitated to the bottom of the tank.
<that's bizarre for having used RO water (demineralized)>
Did I just happen to get a bad batch of Instant Ocean salt?  
<possibly... and easy enough to test for>
I'm not using any additives or buffer so is there another explanation?  
<do you do drugs? Hmmm... just checking>
I think I'm packing it in for a while since I can't find the source of my problem.  
<before you give up from this rather minor problem... would you consider using a different brand of sea salt and/or a different brand of test kit? Anthony>
I appreciate your help guys.  

Water flow question, pollution comment
Hi Crew, <Hi Roy, MacL here with you this fine day.>
I've been reading your FAQ's and cruising through the website for a bit now and have enjoyed it a lot.  Figure I have even learned a thing or two. <Nice to hear, I know I learn every single day.>
I've a question or two for you, but first.... Saw the below question and answer and thought I'd pass something along.  I worked in an oil refinery in a city with air quality nowhere near as bad as LA's.  In talking with the company's plant environmental officer I learned that the rain falling on the plant was "dirtier" than the water we were allowed to discharge from the plant.  In other words, we had to clean up the rain water falling on the plant property before it went into the city's storm drainage system. <Yes I understand what you are saying. The acid rain that's falling.>
Personally, under these circumstances I wouldn't use rain water without "cleaning" it first, period. <I remember when my family was talking about how that's most of the water they drank, rainwater and now its just not safe. I guess my thinking about rain water or water from any source is that I would have it tested to see what's in it before I used it.>
The Q and A (from FAQs About Water Evaporation, Make-Up H20):
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We Get Rain, Let's Use It!
>Hello,
>>Hello.
>I have a 50g reef tank. I was wondering if using rain water in Los Angeles that comes directly from the sky (not from drains or runoff) is alright to use for make-up water?
>>Treat as you would RO/DI (it would be VERY soft, and require proper buffering).
>Should I worry about pollutants in the air?  thanks.  Jason
>>I would not use the "first rain", but living in L.A. myself, I would think that what we got yesterday would give you quite a bit after the first half hour or so.  I think you can certainly try (do keep an eye on our news >>stations' air pollution reports for your best information), and if in >>doubt, filter through carbon and a Polyfilter, then buffer.  Marina
End of Q and A
Marina may have more experience on the subject than you or I Roy, I never underestimate these WWM people they are quite amazing but generally you don't think that what's falling on your head is dangerous.  Also there is some question about standards for human consumption as opposed to standards for fish.  And I gotta be very honest here and tell you, the water where I live is filled with chloramines and I refuse to drink it. It smells bad and it tastes bad and honestly I just don't think I want to drink chlorine and ammonia linked together. Just my two cents on the matter>