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FAQs on Valenciennea/Sleeper, Sifter Gobies:  Disease

Related Articles: Genus Valenciennea Gobies

Related FAQs: Valenciennea 1, Valenciennea 2, Valenciennea Identification, Valenciennea Behavior, Valenciennea Compatibility, Valenciennea Selection, Valenciennea Systems, Valenciennea Feeding, Valenciennea Reproduction, & FAQs on: Marine Scavengers 1True Gobies Gobies 2Goby Identification, Goby Behavior, Goby Selection, Goby Compatibility, Goby Feeding, Goby Systems, Goby Disease, Goby Reproduction, Amblygobius Gobies, Clown GobiesNeon GobiesGenus Coryphopterus Gobies, Mudskippers, Shrimp Gobies,

Blood spots - golden head Goby        4/30/16
Dear Crew Member,
I have a 160l fish tank with live rock, live sand and a yellow tang.
<Will get too big for this system
My setup has a protein skimmer, sponges, wave maker and ceramic rings in the sump.
I am housing a White belly yellow wrasse and a golden head Goby in my fish tank.
The Goby has been in the tank for about 1.5 months and the yellow wrasse for 3 months.
Up until 2 days back, the Goby was doing fine, not moving around the tank much, but came out to eat whenever I fed mysis shrimp to it.
Two days ago, I found little red spots looking like small blood patches near its nostrils and above its lips. And it has stopped eating since.
Water parameters seem fine, NO2 = 0.1, Salinity - 1.021.
<Mmm; NO2 MUST be 0.0 ppm.... And I'd raise your spg
Not sure if it's caught a disease / or fought with its tank mate (cos on the day he got those spots I saw them just touching each other near lips, I saw it for the first and the only time, and I thought they must have been
Please suggest what I must do.
<Address the nitrite for now. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/no2probfaqs.htm
and the linked files in the series>
Awaiting your valuable comments.
Thanks and regards,
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Orange spot goby    2/22/16
Planning to add the Orange Spot Goby and been reading up on Quarantine and FW dips - some conflicting views so just wanted to check my conclusion that generally safe to add gobies direct to the main tank as dips/quarantine stress likely to exceed benefits?
<Yes; this is my long-standing opinion. Unless there is something obvious appearance or behavior wise w/ the specimen, I'd skip isolation/quarantine.
Bob Fenner>
Is this a fair conclusion? Many thanks for your guidance

Diamond goby disease... likely phys. damage      2/24/15
Hello, I have a diamond/orange spot goby that is about 2" long.
<Oh, that's small>
I've had it for a couple of months. I just noticed the fish has blood around it's eyes and nasal passage that can be seen through its translucent head. It has also been swimming in upper potions of tank almost like he is hunting the rocks which I've never seen him do before.
<Mmm; likely met something that it didn't agree with... a pistol shrimp, Mantis, Polychaete... or could have just "bumped" into something hard.>
I don't have s refugium so perhaps it's possible he ate everything out of the sand and is not getting nutrients?
<Mmm; nah>
He seems to eat some of the food the other fish eat too. Any idea what this could be? He is still sifting sand and does not appear skinny.
Thanks for your time.
<You might want to search on WWM re the above organism groups... their "Compatibility FAQs"; re baiting, trapping them out of your system. Bob Fenner>
Re: Diamond goby disease
Thanks so much for your timely reply. Think you must be right because this morning I checked on him and he appears to be back to normal.
<These are very tough fishes indeed>
Glad it was nothing major. Thanks again
<Ah, welcome. BobF>

Engineer gobies - acclimation - help    5/28/12
I have 3 engineer gobies placed in a 30G quarantine tank now. Two are about 2", one about 3". I just acquired them 48 hours ago, mailed from Thatfishplace.com (on account of their sponsoring your site).
<Visited there last month... MUCH larger than a couple decade's back>
 I've noticed the larger seems to be less "social", and has not come out for feeding time.
<Not unusual  behavior>
I have been feeding Mysis shrimp. I don't see any other signs of stress or disease in the fish. The water parameters of the tank are near perfect (no ammonia/nitrates, nitrites immeasurable), and all other quarantine tank mates eat heartily (the other gobies, 2 juvenile maroon clowns, 2 peppermint shrimp, 2 hermits).
I'm not sure if this is long enough to be classified a food strike.
However, this means it is likely 72 hours or more since it has eaten.
Should I be worried? Any suggestions on how to get him eating?
Thanks! Dave
<Not to worry, and these (most gobies, blennies) I wouldn't quarantine for long. Better to dip/bath and place in the main/display tank. Bob Fenner>
Re: Engineer gobies - acclimation - help     5/28/12

Thank you, Bob. This puts me at ease,
<Ah, good>
 I will keep an eye on them. I still have not acquired a main tank. If all goes well for the quarantine period on all specimens, my plan was to add sand /rock
<Set all rock on the bottom, stable... then sand about... so that shifting doesn't crush the Valenciennea>
to this quarantine tank and let it continue as the temporary quarters for up to 8 months, while I keep searching for an ideal main tank in used listings (or, if none found, purchase a new setup).
<Real good. BobF>
Re: Engineer gobies - acclimation - help     5/28/12

Bob, thank you. Do you think it is best to wait until 2-3 quarantine weeks before adding the sand?
<I wouldn't, no... these fish/es suffer for a lack of substrate to sift>
To allow sufficient quarantine time lapse with a bare-bottom tank?
I know the maroon clowns are more apt to require quarantine observation (for tank-bottom vacuuming of possible pathogens) than the others (engineer gobies, peppermint shrimp, hermit crabs).
<A valid point>
Or is it better for psychological reasons to add the sand now, thereby allowing the engineers the opportunity to thrive via their home building instincts?
<Ah yes. BobF>

Valenciennea puellaris questions  6/8/10
Hi Crew...
I have a 125g tank w/ 60g sump, refugium, live rock/sand, 1 clownfish, 3 blue/green Chromis, 1 kaudern's cardinal, 1 Firefish, 1 Valenciennea puellaris, and some cuc,
<... Some? Holothuroid?>
plus a handful of mushrooms that hitchhiked into my fowlr setup via live rock. Ammonia/nitrites 0ppm, nitrates around 15-20ppm. Fish are fed a mix of Spirulina, Mysis, and emerald entree (and the past week I've been soaking them in garlic).
<Yummy; had spaghetti last night>
Just to get it out of the way, I very regrettably do not QT, and it's one of this hobby's lessons that I now realize save a lot of heartache.
<Oh yes>
In the meantime, due to my irresponsibility of not QT'ing newcomers, I added a yellow Tang that ended up having parasites (might have been Paravortex), and died after 2 weeks of being added to my tank (an attempt to do a
freshwater dip and qt was unsuccessful). That was roughly 2 1/2 months ago.
Things just got weird after that. I added another ocellaris (I already had one, that I had for a year). Then I lost my first ocellaris....not sure what he had...probably a parasite, but it was diagnosed strictly due to his stringy white poop which I only saw once or twice, which I've read in many places always means (??) parasite/bacterial infection
-- he was otherwise eating and swimming normally...but he did look skinny. I'm not sure if it was due to him changing to male after adding the bigger clownfish.
<Him changing to male?>
I QT'd him, and used PraziPro to treat the possible parasite,
<Only "good" for/against worms of various sorts/phyla>
if that's what he had. He did not make it. He looked too weak, but not sure if it was due to a real illness. I wonder if I should have left him in the main tank, since if it's a parasite, the tank is already clearly affected.
<and infested>
On to my current fishy problem...the Valenciennea puellaris...I got a him a few months ago. He eats frozen food, and has grown fat since getting him.
He's a voracious eater, and of course keeps my sand clean.
He's not shy at all and always goes near me when I'm there, and never darts off. I've read how resilient they are to parasites and diseases, but I'm afraid he might have something. A few weeks after the Tang died, I noticed black dots on the goby...but ONLY on his orange spots along his dorsal spine.
<These spots are fine... natural coloration>
The rest of his body was normal. I kept an eye on this over the past month, they seemed to only be on his orange spots. I was hoping it was just due to him growing, and the discoloration was normal. I was disturbed today to find that he now has 2 big black discoloration that look like bruises outside of his orange spots...it's on his white areas now.
<Again, no worries here>
I have attached a picture and circled the spots in question. There is no weird behavior, and no scratching on
rocks. Nothing but the spots. Could it be bruises?
<Mmm, not likely>
Those large dark spots were not there yesterday. The only thing in the tank that could possibly sting are some small ball anemones that hitchhiked on the rocks.
While I'm on the topic of this fish, Is it normal for them to have fat bumps on their bottom side after eating?
<Does happen>
I assumed it was normal because it goes away after an hour or so....I was guessing it's his full tummy and he's
just digesting it. Is this an accurate guess?
<Could even be rocks... triturating... again, not to worry>
(picture attached of that big belly as well, which I took right after he ate).
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Watchman Goby w/ mark   8/21/09
Dear Crew: I have a Diamond Watchman Goby (Valenciennea puellaris) in my 10 gal QT. He has been there for a week now and is eating fine. I had a question at the LFS about this dark spot under his "chin" that looked like a flat birthmark that I didn't recall in any pictures I had seen.
<Is not an uncommon coloring, bump... from physical damage... not harmful>
I asked about it and they said it was nothing to worry about.
<I concur>
I guess that was not the case as it appears to be growing. On day 9 in QT, I noticed that it is growing/bulging out and that he has a couple of 'spider veins' on the bridge of his nose - it's hard to tell in this picture, but I think you can make it out. My question. is it a tumor? Is there anything I can do to treat it?
<I'd just move this fish to larger, permanent quarters...>
I was planning on putting him in my 120 gal display at the end of 2 weeks (in accordance with Bob's recommendations for this fish), but it looks like he may never make it there. I'm bummed that I think I bought a sick fish. Any idea of his malady? I've attached a picture for you.
<Not a malady per se, but a "rub mark" if you will... Not to worry; in better settings this spot should mend in time. Bob Fenner>

Re: Watchman Goby w/ mark
Yeah! Thank you so much Bob! Your advice is so wonderful. This is much better news than I expected and without it I would have tormented him in the QT tank for fear of putting him in the display. You've helped me save his life! I've read every page and every word of your Conscientious Marine Aquarist and it's helped me be pretty successful and definitely more confident. Jean
<Ahh, so glad to have aided your efforts, solace Jean. BobF>

Sick Orange Spotted Goby Bob, Thanks for your reply on my feather duster last week. Still haven't seen any activity from it's tube. Still waiting... Loved your book, BTW. I have an Orange Spotted Goby that is quite industrious at sifting my sand. I have noticed in the last week that he is losing weight and is "bent" or "twisted" in the middle. It behaves normally and eats well including flake, gel, frozen brine and raw shrimp soaked in Selcon. I would normally suspect diet, but it eats eagerly and IMHO, broadly. No other fishes behaving abnormally. Any ideas? It's a tank favorite. If I lose it. Any ideas on a replacement sand sifter? I do not have live sand (yet). Thanks again, Mark >> The worm may take weeks to months to regenerate its crown... sorry for that lack of info. And really like these gobies too... and/but find them starving in many situations... my real advice is more food, more frequently... They should (for all the browsers) only be placed in well-established (let's say six months old plus) full blown reef tanks... Other sand sifters I like are in the same genus (Valenciennea) and Amblygobius (esp. hectori)... a few Seastars... some other fishes. Bob Fenner

Dying Goby (6/6/04) I have a question concerning my orange diamond goby. <Valenciennea puellaris. This fish is a sand-sifter and will often starve to death in aquariums without a well-established (1 year or more) live sand bed.> I bought him about 2 1/2 weeks ago and I think he is on his way out. I have had my tank up and running for about 3 months and it is a 40 gallon tank. I have two Perc clowns, 1 green Chromis, one tiny black and white damsel, a small yellow tang and the diamond. <The Yellow Tang will outgrow the tank.> I have about 30+lbs of live rock and 2+ inches of live sand.  I have an emperor 400 filter, however I don't have a protein skimmer or UV sterilizer. <A skimmer would be nice. The UV is not necessary.> I have 4 shrimp, 2 peppermint and 2 camel shrimp. Also, I have about 4-8 hermit crabs and 10-12 snails. I changed around 15% of the water prior to adding my goby.  I acclimated him and put him in. <No quarantine? I sure hope he's not sick from a contagious disease that could wipe out your tank.> Immediately he went under some live rock and then I did not see him for 2 days.  Finally, he stuck his head out. He would grab a flake of food or a brine and would go back under. Every day he came out more and more. The little fellow got pretty brave and would roam the bottom with one eye on the other fish. He was always a little nervous around the yellow tang. The tang was not attacking him but would swim close and the goby would hide out. <Could have been attacking when you weren't watching. The goby is shy, and will not respond well to intimidation.> All of the sudden, 2 days ago I did my biweekly water change. I don't recall if he was acting strange before or after, but I believe it was before.  He stopped eating and would not come out of the rocks.  Now I noticed that he comes out of the rocks at late night.  He also seems to be breathing heavy. <Bad sign> One other thing that I did not think of much until now is that he had a tiny pink spot on him when I got him.  I didn't notice it on him in the store and though he just scraped into a rock or something. <Possible. If so, a portal for infection.> That spot disappeared after a few days and I though nothing of it. My water parameters are fine. Salinity 1.023-25, temp 78, no noticeable levels of nitrite or ammonia.  Furthermore, all of the other fish are happy as can be.  I was wondering if maybe the tang wounded him because the tang keeps pestering him now that he is just laying in the sand bed. I have to keep an eye on the tang and chase him away.  I don't know what to do, any suggestions.  LFS says that water quality is bad <why do they say this?>, but it is not and there are no spots, fin rot and his eyes are not cloudy. What can I do to save my little sand sifting buddy? <Take him out and put him in a hospital tank where you can try to nurse him back to health. Read about quarantine/hospital tanks on WWM. Hope this helps, Steve Allen.>

Mysterious Goby Loss Hi Crew, Scott F. here today> I arrived home tonight to find my 7' Diamond Goby dead in my tank. This sand-sifting superhero had lived in my tank for over a year. I was very worried about him after he had been in my tank for a about a month as he looked as if he was going to starve to death. To allow him to eat food, I would squirt mysids under the sand where other fish could not get to them. After doing this for several days, he eventually began to eat the mysids directly from the feeding tube. After that he had no fear of other fish and he would readily fight for anything I put in the tank (as well as chasing anything that looked like a tube). Since this he has always appeared to be in excellent health. The only changes recent I am aware of are the addition of a Pterosynchiropus splendidus and a Synchiropus picturatus to the aquarium, along with several coral frags (5 soft + 5 SPS), a 4' Lobophyllia and a 6' Alveopora. This is all in a 180g tank with a 20g refugium (teeming with 'pods and a little Gracilaria and Caulerpa). <Sounds like a nice setup for this fish> Water parameters look good to me: Temp=78F, Salinity=1.024, Ammonia=0, Nitrite=o, Nitrate<5 ppm, Ca=380, Alk=6. The only parameter that I have noticed to be out of range lately is the temperature. Our air conditioner went out last week so the temp got as high as 84F and fluctuated between 78F and 84F a few times but has stabilized at 77F-78F for the past two days. I realize this situation is less than ideal but the Diamond Goby is not the fish I would have expected to show the first signs of stress. <I doubt that a brief journey into the mid eighties would suddenly kill an otherwise healthy fish...> My Xenia, Powder Blue tang other corals, inverts and fish all appear to still be doing well. Do you think the goby could have choked on something or, since he was as large as what most books list as maximum size, maybe he was just very old when I purchased him? <Anything is possible...Could have even been a slow deterioration (such as "old age") that coincidently peaked when the temp of the tank got up there...> Although I assumed he was getting all nutrition from eating pellet food, silversides and whatever else I feed my fish, maybe he was getting all real nutrition from 'pods and the two dragonets have nearly eliminated the 'pod population (in about one week)?  <A definite possibility...> Since I have 200 pounds of LR. in a 180g tank with a refugium that is overflowing with 'pods I am guessing this last theory is a long-shot. <A long shot, but certainly not impossible...Slow starvation based on malnutrition is possible, too- however unlikely that seems> Any insight or guesses would be appreciated. Greg <Well, Greg, I'm going to have to postulate that it was simply the fish's "time"...Sometimes, a fish will expire suddenly regardless of care and conditions...A frustrating occurrence, but entirely too common. I'm afraid that, in the absence of environmental lapses and obvious disease signs, this fish may have simply expired for reasons that we cannot explain. Sorry for that unsatisfying answer, but we just cannot tell without a detailed postmortem...Don't be too discouraged- you gave it a great shot! Regards, Scott F>

Sleeper Goby Hey Crew, <Mark> A few questions regarding setting up a Q-tank if I may. <Go ahead> Looking to pick up a Sleeper Gold Head Goby (Valenciennea strigata) in a few days for my 75G (setup 2+ years, 40# LR, 4" oolite DSB, two clowns, purple tang and a cleaner shrimp). Q-tank is 15G, have a hang-on power filter that will take foam elements that have been in my main tank for awhile. Questions: -Should I fill (or partly fill) the Q-tank with water from the 75G? <Yes> -Considering is a sand sifter, go a shallow sand bed or stay bare bottom? <Mmm, a toss-up... if the animal looks fine otherwise, I'd add substrate... but if you think you might want/have to add medicant/s, I'd omit it... Actually... if the fish looks fine I'd probably skip quarantine altogether... and just pH adjusted freshwater dip and place it... More to be lost than gained with many such fishes (touchy, easily starved varieties)> -Tank previously setup with eggcrate lid, okay or should I be looking for a glass top? <All openings large enough to exit up must be covered> -How to feed the goby while in QT? <A "turkey" baster... meaty food items, frequently> -What should be the minimum stay? <None to a few weeks> Lastly, when is Part2 in the NMA series due out? <Heeeeee! Wish I could tell... a few to several months likely> Thanks in advance, Mark <Be chatting, Bob Fenner> 

Valenciennea strigata Rescue  - 2/21/2006 A great pleasure to write to you. Your answers and articles have steered and scared me in the right direction many times though foolish (human) mistakes are always abound. <Ah, yes>    I purchased 2 Valenciennea strigata from my LFS today. I've been waiting for these fish for some time and they always come in damaged or not at all. I only paid for one the 2nd seemed to be in Osmotic shock while the healthy one was hovering and protecting him. I looked at them yesterday and said I would take them today if he made it through the night, and he did.      Symptoms are mostly upside down and not swimming much at all, heavy breathing. no other obvious signs of parasites. LFS said he came out of the bag like this. I know its probably a lost cause but a worthy one. any suggestions would be Greatly appreciated.....Chris in Rhode Island <Keep the area around where these are being quarantined quiet, the tank unlit... offer some live foods (crustaceans, worms), live rock... Bob Fenner>

Blue Dot Sleeper Goby Acclimation  03/25/07 Hi All - <Hello Brandon here.> I have a question.   <I will try to have an answer.> I just acquired a Sleeper Blue Dot Goby (Valenciennea sexguttata) from a LFS.  Looks healthy, was eating in the store.   <Good sign.> I just acclimated it and now have it in a 10G quarantine tank.   <Good Job on Quarantining.> The tank has no substrate, just two medium sized pieces of live rock and one piece of large PVC.  I've read in a few places on the site that I should only QT fish that live in burrows for two weeks or so as the stress of no substrate will be bad for him.  Then I read other areas about a minimum of 4 weeks for any fish.   <I would not worry about the stress too much here.  It would be far worse if you were to place the fish in your display only to loose fish due to an outbreak of disease.> I've always done 4 weeks min in the past with success.  What should I do for him?   <I would go with four weeks.> Thanks! <You're welcome.  Brandon.> Mike

Bullet Goby... Thin, Lack of Food?   9/9/07 Hello Crew, <Hi Tim, Mich here.> I have a bullet goby which I has been a great addition to my aquarium, <Glad to hear.> my algae is almost non-existent thanks to him which brings about my problem. He seems to clean so good that I'm afraid he's not getting enough food. <Heehee! Send him my way I could feed him for a while!> To date I've tried feeding him frozen brine, frozen Mysis, algae strips (may or may not be eating) phytoplankton, pellet food (tried that tonight, jury is still out) I'm considering krill next. <Ok. I do have a few more suggestions. I would soak whatever you offer him in a vitamin supplement such as Selcon. You may also want to try Spirulina, dried brown or red algae, or perhaps some Spectrum foods. I have not personally used Spectrum foods but I have heard many extolling its palatability and high nutritional value.> The only other fish he is competing with is a sebae clown which doesn't bother him at all. I really don't want to lose this fish. Here is a pic ... notice the stomach area. <Yes, he does not look well. Perhaps you have friend whose tank has a little excess algae?> Thank You, <Welcome! Mich> Tim

Bullet Goby... Thin, Lack of Food? Now Eating Brine Shrimp  9/10/07 <Hi Tim, Mich with you again.> Some good news, he is eating live brine like a mad man. <YAY!> This is the first time I've ever put live brine in my tank since it has zero nutritional value. I'm going to start hatching some and soaking them in Selcon. <Good, is a start. Hopefully will eventually be able to get him to eat something with more nutritional value such as frozen Mysis.> I hope it's not too late for him. <Me too!> If I get live brine from the LFS, is it a waste of time soaking them in Selcon? <No I think any bit might benefit this fish.> Thank <Welcome! Mich>

Diamond goby lip breaking away   2/5/08 Hello to you all, <Howdy> Most of the time I come to your page for answers. But I am unable to find a proper solution to my problem. I have a 4-5in diamond goby that has been in the tank for a week or so now. His tank mates are a Sailfin tang, coral beauty, flame hawk, <Mmmm, suspect #1> beta, 2 ocellaris (sp) clowns, and a Fiji puffer. <What species is this?> Now I know that the hawk fish can be a little punk, mine has been in the past. So I got a goby over twice a big as him. The goby doesn't seem care the hawk was aggravated, but that stopped after 2 days. The goby just went around eating and making holes in the sand since day one. But yesterday that stopped. The goby's face seems all messed up, like he was eating rough sand. I have had goby's in the past and none had a problem eating my sand bed. its not gravel or anything, just sand, and a few shells for the crabs. His upper lip is almost gone and a piece of it is still attached and it moves in and out of his mouth as he breathes, which is now quite rapid. You can tell its red and irritated. I can understand why he isn't sifting, it would hurt it seems. But when I feed the tank he doesn't eat that food. :*( I don't know what to do, I have a 150g reef tank so I cant just put some anti-biotics. The sal is 1.023 <I'd raise this> the ph is 8.2 and all low readings on the bad stuff Ammonia, NO NO2, PO4 etc. And no other fish are bugging him or affected by anything. <Then... whence forth the damage? Something worked this animal.> But I feel bad if there is something I can do and I am not. I am sure you understand. Well thanks for your time. Best Regards Rob <I'd be moving this fish... to somewhere more simpatico... hoping it heals, feeds on its own... a refugium if you have one. Bob Fenner>

Orange-spot Goby - QT question/possible Ich 01/24/2008 Hello CREW, <<Hello Brian, Andrew here, sorry for the delay in response>> For starters, thank you for the awesome website, it is my primary source of information and research (besides the Conscientious Marine Aquarist, of course). Can't wait until the updated edition of the book comes out. <<AM sure Bob will release details when he can, and thank you>> Main tank is a 75 gal FOWLR system, QT is a 20 gal. Both systems have been up and running for about 2 months at this point (still a bit young). Main tank has 2 Ocellaris Clowns and 2 PJ Cardinals. QT currently holds 1 Orange-spot goby (I have identified as /Valenciennea puellaris/)<<Correct>>, and 1 Banggai Cardinal. These fish have been in QT for 5 days now. Some aragonite substrate was added to the QT for the sand sifter, it is usually bare bottomed. <<Personally, I would of left it bare bottom. Substrate in the quarantine tank can harbour parasites which can infect other fish>> For the first 3 days, neither fish would eat. I added garlic drops to their food and the goby is now eating everything in sight. <<That's good to hear>> The cardinal still has yet to eat more than a piece or two of mysis. After researching, I understand the tank is a bit young for this goby (learned my lesson on not researching first), but at least he is readily taking prepared foods. <<Yes, we sometimes do learn the hard way. By providing a diet yourself, will help a lot for the fish>> I have read on WWM that extended quarantines for these types of gobies is not recommended, let alone quarantining at all. On the 2nd day in QT, I noticed white spots on the goby's fins that looked to be Ich (picture attached). That evening was the first time he ate (when I began using garlic), and the spots were gone the next morning. These spots were only there for 24 hours. Could this have been Ich? Also, at this point, would it be wise to move him to the main tank or leave him in QT? <<Ich would not of disappeared so quickly, it's possible it was fine grains on sand on the fins>> The Cardinal has shown no signs of disease. Also, I have seen conflicting statements in regards to FW dips for these fish. Should I or shouldn't I? <<I would always quarantine, about 4 weeks, and yes, I would FW dip>> Curiously, in some of the pictures, the spots appear black depending on if water or substrate is behind the fin. All spots are in fact white, regardless of what color they show in the pictures. <<Again, this would lead me more towards grains of sand, with the changing colour from pictures and naked eye>> Thanks for all your advice, Brian Gross. <<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Re: Orange-spot Goby - QT question/possible Ich 01/25/2008 Andrew, thank you so much for your reply. <<Glad I could help>> One thing though, I am virtually 100% positive that the spots on his fins were not grains of sand. The fact that the spots came and went over a 24 - 36 hour period was confusing to me as well. As for the FW dip, would you do it with any additives (such as Methylene Blue), or straight FW (pH adjusted, I assume)? <<pH adjusted and using blue, that's correct>> As for the Banggai Cardinal, it still refuses to eat. It has now been 6 days and it has eaten (at most) 4 - 5 pieces of mysis shrimp. Is there anything else I can possibly do? I have tried both frozen mysis and frozen brine (Spirulina enriched) soaked in garlic and Zoe. I read through the Banggai FAQ's and am still at a loss. I fear he will not last much longer if I can't find a way to get him to eat. His stomach is quite indented at this point. <,You could try adding Selcon to some food, to see if this will entice the Cardinal to eat. http://ww.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=5009 >> Thank you once again for your time and a wonderful website. <<Glad we could help you. Please keep me informed on both fish. A Nixon>> Regards, -Brian

Re: Orange-spot Goby - QT question/possible Ich 01/30/2008 Andrew, <<Hello Brian>> Just a quick update. The Goby is doing great. He is still eating like a champion and fattening up quite nicely. He is having the time of his life, the QT tank typically looks like a sandstorm has passed through. As the sand was put in the QT only for him (being a sand sifter and all), it will be removed and disposed of when the Goby comes out of QT. <<Sounds wonderful, glad the fish is doing well?? Unfortunately the Banggai Cardinal passed away Friday evening. He never would eat, no matter what we tried. He wouldn't even eat live brine. Just another lesson learned, in addition to all of the other things you do when selecting livestock, one should always make sure you have the LFS feed the fish prior to you purchasing. <<And not so wonderful...Yes, its always a good idea to see a fish eat at the store prior to purchase, and preferably, see the fish eat a couple of different foods over a couple of day. Sad that the fish died>> Thanks again for all of the help, Brian <<Thanks for the follow up Brian and good luck. A Nixon>>

Black Mark on Sleeper Goby 2-9-08 Yunachin, <Hi there!> Thanks for your reply. <No problem at all.> I have one last question; this time about my sleeper goby. <Okie dokie.> He has developed a black marking where his chin is. It appears to be getting darker everyday (the marking). Could it be a disease? Or stress? <Could be an array of things. Is there any way that you can send a picture for a better identification?> Thanks again, <No prob! --Yunachin> Merlinda

Re: Black Mark on Sleeper Goby  2-11-08 Hello again, <Hi.> Attached are pictures of my goby with the black marking. <I did a pretty extensive search just to make sure of myself and found that this marking is indeed a natural color variation. Here is the link where I got a very nice close-up: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-09/hcs3/index.php; > Thanks,

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