Xenia hlth. issues -- 11/17/2009
<Hey Joshua! JustinN here tonight -- combining both your emails together for simplicity of response!>
Hey guys! So..I have a problem (go figure) and I thought I would ask the "Oh So Wise" Gurus lol.
<*Sagely* Ask away, my son. ;)>
I have a 90 gal salt tank with metal halide (sorry I can't think of how many watts right now, and I'm not home). I'm running two Remora Aqua-C protein skimmers, I have a 4 inch DSB, and two 600-gal Hydor Koralia powerheads. I know, I need to get some more circulation, I'm working on it and adding a sump tank.
<Is not completely stagnant, better than many other situations... the sump will help though.>
Anyway, I have a blue Xenia which I bought about 6 months ago and it has been doing great! Grew from one base to 3 major bases now.
<The true 'seaweed'>
Over the past week, the polyps just suddenly sagged and it has looked pathetic ever since. I am pretty sure it is dying, since this happened to another Xenia I had before I bought this one. It is slowly shrinking into itself.
<This does occur on occasion naturally, a wax-and-wane of the population, if you will>
I haven't added anything, and just got done with a 20% water change and it made no difference. I make my own salt water and test it before use, and it looked fine. Everything else seems to be doing ok as far as corals and fish go.
<What other corals are you housing here?>
I have been fighting a Cyano outbreak for months now, and it is not completely gone, but has been drastically reduced to mostly on the glass and sand top. I have tested for phosphates, nitrates and ammonia, all at zero. (of course, the Cyano would just consume whatever is available so I consider it a false negative).
<Correct>
The only think I have noticed is an outbreak of deep red algae, which I assume is a type of Cyano, covering the rocks very rapidly, including the rock with the Xenia.
<If it is slimy as well, is almost certain to be Cyano as well... comes in many shades.>
So, I have been doing water changes and siphoning out as much of it as I can, and it has helped but the Xenia has not improved. Any suggestions?
Need any more info??
Thanks guys for all your help!
Joshua Lucero
<Need a bit more info than this to advise.... which is conveniently provided here!>
Sorry, I re-read my last email and there is more information that I should have given. The Xenia are on a rock all by themselves and "upstream" from any other corals (about 6 inches from the nearest), so I don't think chemical warfare is the culprit.
<Mmm, can still be the case -- allelopathy is a chemical situation, carried by the waters of the tank -- sweeper tentacles and the such, direct Cnidarian stinging would be the issue in closer quarters... what corals are housed here?>
I dose periodically with "Fuel" from Aquavitro, to keep a decent flow of nutrients in the tank (About twice a month), my pH is about 8.3 my salinity is in the range it should be on my specific gravity tool.
<Salinity numbers are important here, please do provide.>
My alkalinity is high (too much buffer, but corrected with water change because my calcium levels dropped to about 140).
<140? Is this a mis-type? This is exceedingly low -- perhaps your buffer addition caused a precipitous event, and your water balance is still skewed? Have a look here -- http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and related subheadings.>
They are in a place of good flow that isn't just from one direction, and the only other thing I can think of is that I dosed with some Amquel to help neutralize some of the dissolved organics that are causing the BGA to bloom. Amquel shouldn't affect xenia though right??
Joshua Lucero
<Well Joshua, the Amquel shouldn't affect the Xenia, but I have heard more than one anecdotal story of people who've had inexplicable problems when using this product in a reef setting... Amquel's main purpose is the neutralization of Chlor(am)ines and Ammonia from new treatment water -- in a saltwater setting, you'll optimally be using RO (or preferably RO/DI) makeup water before mixing your own salt. Treating the tank itself with Amquel will do nothing to improve your Cyano issue, and may well exacerbate it. What's needed to defeat the Cyano, is additional water flow, and regular water changes with very clean water. Have a read through here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/watrqualmar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and related subheadings. Let us know if you have any further questions! -JustinN>

Xenia hlth. issues -- 11/17/2009
Hey Justin! Thanks for the quick response!
<Glad to help!>
I agree with your assessment of Amquel, I talked to one of my LFS guys about it last night. I was under the impression that Amquel neutralized nitrates, nitrates, chlorine and ammonia, which is why I put it in the tank. Didn't realize that it does all of that simply by neutralizing the ammonia and chlorine...sad day. Anyway, he said he has had some customers have the same problems. In fact, it is his theory that anything that forms a slime coat maybe hazardous to photosynthetic inverts, as he has lost some corals because of that.
<I would agree with this assessment -- this is not the first I have heard
of problems with Amquel in a reef tank.>
Guess it's going in the trash because I use RODI water so there is no need for it.
<Indeed>
My specific gravity is 1.022, and yes my calcium levels were very low.
<I would get this raised to 1.026 over the course of several days -- those within your care will love you for it!>
I guess I over did it on alkalinity lol.
<I'd say so! I'd work on re-balancing this sooner than later -- daily water changes to regain a control on ionic balance.>
I'll fix it right away by doing a few water changes and monitoring the balance of calcium/Alk.
<I'd go so far as to abstain from any kind of dosing in this critical time period -- get your water changes done to get your water back in balance.>
As far as corals go, here is what I have: 1 small green Sinularia, 1 purple/blue Ricordea, 2 red mushrooms, large cluster of Zoanthids, 2 clusters of green star polyps and a small Montipora. I have everything pretty well spaced out as far as I can in the tank.
Joshua Lucero
<This all should be fine -- the water conditions are far more likely the suspect here. Do let us know if you have further questions!>

Pulsing Xenia/Compatibility 9/23/09
I had a Camelback Shrimp and a Pulsing Xenia in my 14 gallon BioCube fish tank. Two days ago, (for the first time) I saw the shrimp eating the xenia.
A few hours later, the shrimp was on its side twitching and died this morning. Are the two related? I was not sure in xenias can be poisonous, or if this is a coincidence.
My water parameters are:
Salinity — 1.025
Temp — 78 Degrees
pH — 8.1
Ammonia– Undetectable
Nitrite — Undetectable
Nitrate — 0
Calcium — 370
<Kristi, Camelback Shrimp should not be kept in systems containing mixed invertebrates.
They are known to munch on these, and therefore not safe in a reef tank. I'd do a look/see again, the shrimp
may have molted and is hiding in the rockwork. Now, to answer your question. Soft corals such as Xenia produce an arsenal of toxic compounds. These toxins not only deter most predators, but also can harm neighboring corals, thus helping Xenia colonies maintain a patch of reef for themselves. In that regard, it is possible the shrimp may have died from munching on the Xenia.>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
-Kristi

Help my waving hand... goodbye livestock... reading  8/11/2009
I have a 33 gal tank that has been established 2 years. It has mushrooms, Zoanthids, crabs, a shrimp, an anemone and 2 clowns + 2 blue damsels.
There is 20 lbs of live rock, + salt + a great light and filter. Everything looks and acts right,
<?>
although the anemone
<!>
has turned white with pink tips and one clump of waving hand has shriveled up. Any suggestions? Should I remove the waving hand? Th,ks!!
<... this mix of species is untenable. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Help my waving hand 8/11/2009
Update: here's my parameters. All but KH seems in check:
Ammonia is 0
PH 8.1
Nitrite 0.1 mg/L
<... needs to be zip>
Iron 0
Chelated Iron is 0
Phosphate 0.5 mg/L
<Way too high>
Calcium 480 mg/L (ppm)
Nitrite 20 mg/L
<... no>
Carbonate Hardness 85 mg/L
<... keep reading. RMF>

Cespitularia and Heteroxenia... hlth., comp.    8/3/09
Hello WWM,
<Mike>
Long time reader, first time writer!
I currently have a 24 Aquapod, with the first chamber a Fuge and second chamber I have a penguin 220 filter. I have LR, LS and have been cycling for over 8 weeks. After wards I added snails, ( no hermits, hate crabs) and waited another 1 month before adding anything else. ( This isn't my first system ) So I added a Blue Cespitularia, and a frag of Heteroxenia.. The Blue Cespitularia when I bought it was under actinic lighting so I couldn't tell if the polyps were whitish when I bought it, anyway the specimen look pretty good, considering the move but is releasing black substance from its polyps?
<Mmmm, perhaps "nothing" to be concerned re... but...>
The Heteroxenia however doesn't look good, the hands have turned black and sorta fell off. The stem and branches are still there it just looks bald now. Any suggestions, they both came from 250w MH set-ups and I currently have a 150w 14k bulb. Both are placed on bottom now.
Parameters as follow
PH-8.3
Amm-0
Nitrate-0
<Needs some... and HPO4...>
Alk- low to normal range
SG-1.026
Also I would say the tank has medium flow ( stock pump and Koralia Nano Powerhead), and the xenia isn't in it's direct way. And my livestock is a Sixline wrasse.
Thanks in advance
Michaelangelo!
<Often, systems, particularly small volumes, will only support one species of Xeniid... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/xeniidcompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Completely stumped - soft coral problems, allelopathy, Ozone option  06/02/09
Hello,
<Hi there Ken>
I need some help as I'm completely stumped, I have been running a 90 G tank for over 10 years now. Some good years some bad.
Currently I have for the last year been able to keep the system running with 0 Nitrate's as I had major nitrate problems.
I had been running with CC substrate and trickle filter with a small skimmer (old school! ) with 275W of PC lighting So I had changed up the system over a year ago upgraded to a Euro Reef RS135 running in a 30G sump with a 15G fug. and CaribSea reef floor sand. Also upgraded to 8x54W T5's
So currently I have 140 Lbs of rock (been in use 10 years)
<Mmm, I'd be adding a bit new to this. Please see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/substrepl2.htm>
with a total of 125g of water in the system.
I do a 20G water change every 2-3 weeks (just timing issue) and dose BRS two part daily.
Current parameters - that I test
1.025 Salinity - Refractometer (checked and tested at LFS)
80 F Temp - digital
8.4 (night) - 8.5 PH (day) - using Vital Sign handheld calibrated last week
8 DKH- using API
430 Cal - using Seachem
1300 Mag - using Seachem
0 Ammonia - using API
0 Nitrite - using API
0 Nitrate - using API
0.01 Phos- Using Elos
0.06 Iodine - using Seachem
Here is my problem all of my pulsing Xenia for the last few weeks have all stopped pulsing, their white body's have gone from white to dark brown/pink (best I can come up with LOL) I had a frag in the
tank 6 months ago that got stung by my Ritteri anemone ( I know small tank for a Ritteri but love them so much) so I moved it and it started to grow back and kind of stopped growing. I got a another frag and it grew to three times it's size and picked up another frag for my small tank that was cycling and it to grew to three times it's size quickly. then the first frag has started to shrink and turn dark and now the second frag
is tuning dark and not coming out fully. At the same time (about 6 months ago) I had picked up a green orange clove polyp frag and it too started off strong went from 5 polyps to 25 and now it too has stopped growing. Some of the polyps will not open fully and they look burned (the edges are white)
My mushrooms are not expanding fully but look OK, my Leather is OK, my Zoo's are OK, All my LSP and one SPS are doing good (still growing) even my Acans are fine, so what gives?? What I'm I missing??
<Mmm... perhaps... some general aspect of water quality that would "save" your "losing" Cnidarians from apparent allelopathy... A bunch to speculate here... But let's start by having you review:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files of this ppt. condensation, and then a bit re RedOx...
which, better than "stooping" to more expensive chemical filtrant use...
I'd look into... Ozone use... perhaps with a desiccator:
http://wetwebmedia.com/redox.htm
and http://wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX/RedOx/RedoxPPTpres1.htm
and the linked files...>
Thanks' for any help or direction you can offer.
If I left out any needed info please let me know.
Ken
<Again, Ken, there are a few avenues you might consider, go here... For me, a cursory reading/understanding of the negative interactions of the life you list and a short/sure method of "curing" these processes is likely to be satisfying. Bob Fenner>

Re: Completely stumped - soft coral problems  6/2/09
Hello Bob,
Thanks for the insight, It is not the first time I have thought or have it been suggested to replace some rock. I had almost at one point the intention adding some new rock and cooking the rest on a rotation bases. My still end up going that way, but after I managed to get the nitrates under control did not think it was necessary.
<Does really help>
As for the latter ORP, this also came up in the past when fighting nitrates I tried vodka dosing for organic carbon to help consume the nitrates but found no positive effect, when dosing my star polyps stopped coming out and my leather did not seam to like it either, as well the nitrates held steady. It was suggest to check ORP at that time, but I played with my fug slowing down the flow from ~300g/hr to ~100g/hr and this helped knock the nitrates down. This seamed to me to prove I have a lot of oxygen and by slowing down the flow helped the 6" deep sand bed and Chaeto do its thing.
But I'm just a hobbyist taking my best guess from over information and not enough understanding.
<We share this trait>
I believe my next best hope is to check ORP and see if the problem is there.
<Do see my bits on WWM re... you really want high, consistent readings (375-400 micro Siemens/cm)>
The one thing I have learned in this hobby is when you think you know what your doing and your reef is doing great, it just pure dumb ass luck!
<Mmm, not entirely in my experience>
and the next adventure is just around the corner.
Again thanks' for the input.
Ken
<Glad to share. BobF>

Stowaway Nudibranch, Xeniid pred.  04/20/09 Hi crew :D I recently bought a lovely colony of red sea xenia which was home to a Phyllodesmium hyalinum - the little Nudibranch fell off the colony when it was knocked off the rock work. While this may sound a bit sad I know, the little guy is rather lovely and although I have no wish for it to snaffle my xenia I'd like to know if I can help it to survive, short of putting it back on the xenia colony... <If it is indeed a Xenia eating Nudibranch, chances are that it needs to eat Xenia in order to survive. However, you might be able to feed it any kind of Xenia. Thus, you might be able to set up a little biotope for it and just feed it xenia frags (if you can find such for cheap). The other option, you could ask your fellow reef aquarists if they have excess Xenia (many reef keepers do-- some even consider the coral a pest at some point).> after all, I did purchase the animal albeit accidentally! <I do sympathize, appreciate your sentiment here. I recall a friend of mine who fell so much in love with two beautiful Nudibranchs that hitchhiked on his sun corals, that he forgot about the sun coral and did everything he could to keep the slugs alive by buying dying sun corals from LFSs, just to feed them. Of course, I don't recommend this per se, but I do sympathize with any such love for Nudibranchs. I've also had them as hitch-hikers and always wished I could keep them. However, do know that these animals don't usually live that long (even in the wild).> Will the Nudibranch ultimately cause the death of the xenia, or will its feeding habits do little more than limit the size of the colony? <Well, firstly, please do send in a pic so that we can confirm that this is a Xenia eating Nudibranch. Secondly, *one* Nudibranch on a large, fast-growing Xenia colony, might not destroy the colony, but as you say, just keep it "mowed" a bit. The trouble is that the Nudibranch could likely reproduce. Within a short time, you might not just be dealing with one Nudibranch, but many many Nudibranchs... who would likely destroy the colony eventually.> Many thanks, Carolyn <De nada, Sara M.> Re: stowaway Nudibranch 04/21/09 Hi Sara, Many thanks for the reply - have attached a picture of the little guy. <Wow, great pic! May I ask, what camera did you use? The slug does look like a Phyllodesmium hyalinum. Please see here: http://www.seaslugforum.net/display.cfm?id=13207 You might even want to write in to this site with your story/pics, since it is noted to be very difficult to find/see in the wild. Thus, maybe Bill Rudman would get a kick out of seeing yours (or at least confirm the ID).> Carolyn <Cheers, Sara M.>

Xenia (pest?) and worm (ID, comp.)    2/20/09 Hi. I'd like to thank you for all your help. Today I noticed that one xenia colony has brown/black specks crawling all over it. <Mmmm> Just a few days ago a crab reproduced, so I wonder if it could be crabs eating away at the xenias. I say eating because some of the branches look like tiny parts are missing. If it is not tiny crabs, what else could they be? <Small crustaceans... or Nudibranchs... or... Need a much higher resolved image or two to tell. There are treatments for all... see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/LR,LS/HH%20PPT%20Pitch%20Cells/HHProsConsart.htm> Is there anything I need to worry about? We have two xenia colonies and only one shows the spots. I have attached a few pictures. <If it is convenient, easy to do, I would move the one showing these moving zots to another system... carefully lift it and place it in a container underwater... so that if this is a pest, predator it doesn't fall off...> When I was checking on the xenias, this yellow worm was stuck to the glass. I did some research and it looks like it could be a spaghetti or medusa worm. Can you confirm which one it is. Is it harmless in my tank? <Should be... it is almost assuredly a species of Errantiate Polychaete, see the Net re... Perhaps a member of the family Cirratulidae> I have removed it from the tank temporarily until I learn more about it. Thanks for all your wonderful help. Cindy salinity 1.025 nitrite 0 ammonia < .25 nitrate 2.5 ph 8.4 Alk 1.7 - 2.8 <Bob Fenner>

Pulsing xenia, beh., hlth.  12/29/08
<Hello James, Minh at your service.>
I've read of some of the problems people seem to be having with pulsing xenia, here's mine. I've hand my 55 gal tank up and running for about three months now.
About two months ago I brought home a pulsing xenia frag from a LFS. It took about a week for it to come to life, but once it did, it seemed quite happy, even had an offspring! I had fish in the tank, and unfortunately a catastrophic outbreak of Ich. As a result, I got out of the habit of feeding the inverts, and the xenia began to wither and shrivel to about a tenth of it's healthiest size. I've been given the advice of feeding with invert food and dosing with trace minerals containing iodine.
<The practice of iodine dosing for Xeniid health is supported by a body of anecdotal evidence in the reefing community. However, I must warn you that the danger of overdosing is easily a possibility. As with dosing of any
other major, minor or trace elements, one should only do so carefully and with the aid of test kits to prevent overdosing.>
The LFS told me it's not uncommon for xenia to just die for no apparent reason.
<The opposite is true for Xeniids and many other corals, it's uncommon for them to perish for no reason. Although Xeniids do appear to behave unpredictably, it is their sensitivity to changes in basic water parameters that's to blame. For this reason, many seasoned reefers use Xeniids as a visual barometer for system stability.>
Reading your posts seems to suggest that they are extremely hardy, bordering on being a nuisance. I'd love to get a colony going. It's been about a week and a half and I'm not seeing any real improvement. The other tankmates seem happy. Over the last couple of days I've tried target feeding with a syringe (turning all flow off and bathing the xenia with a mixture of invert food and trace minerals).
The ph got down to about 7.5, I've got it up to 8.0 now.
<This could the cause for the decline of your Xeniids. I suspect if you are able to maintain stable pH and Alkalinity readings, your Xeniids will improve over time. Here is an excellent article on correcting pH issues:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php.>
Any suggestions, recommendations would be greatly appreciated
<Furthermore, here is an excellent article on Xeniids as good food for thought: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-02/ac/feature/index.php.
Good luck, Minh Huynh.>

Re: pulsing xenia    1/4/09
I want to thank you for responding so quickly and completely to my questions. The answers you provided and the links you supplied are much appreciated.
<You're welcome, James.>
I have a little more history information that I forgot to mention; and a couple of questions, if you don't mind.
<No problem, that's why we're here.>
What was the main body of xenia seems to have melted away. The offspring is still alive, but maybe a tenth of it's original size.
I did mention my tank experienced a catastrophic Ich outbreak. The part I forgot to mention was that I received a copper free medication for the Ich and instructions for dosing as well as raising the temperature to 85 deg.
The temperature was reset to 80 deg., the medication was dosed for one week, and a 25% water change was done at the end of the week. All of this effort was to no avail, none of the fish survived the Ich. The Xenia have been going down hill ever since.
<I'm sorry to hear about your fish loss. I suspect along with the pH drop, the prolonged elevated temperature caused the initial demise of your Xeniids. If the Xeniids continue to decline even after stabilizing pH and temperature, you may need to add iodine. As I mentioned before, it is quite possible to overdose with iodine without proper administration.
However, with a proper iodine test kit and careful dosing, some aquarists including myself have had success in reviving unhealthy Xeniids. In my case, I started out with 2 drops of Kent Tech-I iodine mixed in a 10ml container of saltwater. This solution is then slowly fed to the Xeniids as if spot feeding a coral. The dosage amount can be increased slightly over time. Noticeable improvement should happen relatively quickly.>
The question I have is this. Will the Ich perish without a host fish, or will the eggs in the gravel exist indefinitely, as my LFS states.
I was planning on waiting at least eight weeks before attempting to re-introduce any fish.
<If the system is allowed to go fallow or fish-less for a period of time (4 or more weeks), then the Cryptocaryon irritans protozoan is allowed to go through its life cycle and perish without a host. Of course, the longer you can wait before adding fish, the better. More information can be found
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm.
Good luck, Minh Huynh.>

Xenia crash??   11/25/08
Hi crew,
I have an urgent problem with my xenia. I have two species that have grown extraordinarily well over the past 6 moths ( from a 1" patch to over 2feet high and wide, with more large colonies all over my tank). Today I accidently knocked a 12v live connector into the tank and didn't notice it for a few minutes. 15 min.s later all my xenia turned yellow at the head, and shriveled up. I done a quick water change - one bucket as that's all I had mixed at the time ( not much for a 6ft tank), and things perked up a bit but have now gotten worse again.
<Not an atypical event>
Other sessile inverts shriveled for about 1 hour but are fine again now.
Inhabitants are 2 10" colt corals, two toadstools, two leathers, Condylactis anemone, colony of star polyps (these are still hiding), two Nudibranchs ( one is a sea hair 8",
<... what species is this "hare?">
the other "appeared" last week and I have no idea what it is - its 1.5" bright orange with white edges and very frilly all over and comes out at night.
<Perhaps predaceous, a factor here>
Live stock 6 Anthias, scooter blenny, mandarin, yellow tang, 1 mono, 3ft snowflake eel, Radiata lion fish, powder blue tang and two Firefish, various snails.
parameters
nitrite 0.05<
nitrate 0.2<
KH 9
temp 26deg
the water was maybe a little bit misty but smells strongly of what I can only describe as a soft coral or anemone out of water.
<Yikes... a good clue... and dangerous>
I have added some activated carbon, and my skimmer seems to be working overtime like I've never seen. All livestock is accounted for. What do you think the problem is?? Do you think something may of released some poisonous eggs or something?
<A definite high likelihood...>
any help would be much appreciated
regards
Lex
<Lex, there are a few approaches you might consider (and soon!) as to how to proceed... Whatever has been added in recent times might be a "trigger" to the allelopathy you're witnessing. Massive water changes, the use of activated carbon, Polyfilter might forestall problems here, raising your RedOx definitely would... You can read re these on WWM... I'd start here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above... to where you lead yourself. Bob Fenner>

Re: Unhappy xenia 8-26-08
I have already read all the FAQs about Xeniids posted on this site. I could not find any answer to the problem I have with my pulsing xenia. Any other suggestions? Thanks
<Need water param.s, and husbandry information. Are you dosing Iodide? M. Maddox>

 Pulsing Xenia, hlth./beh.  07/24/2008
Crew,
<<Good afternoon, Andrew today>>
I recently added(4 days ago) my first Acropora coral in my 14 week old reef. It seems to be extremely happy under 432 watts of T5. My questions is about my pulsing Xenia...this was the first coral I purchased (about 7-8 weeks ago). It's been doing incredible, pulsing aggressively day and night. Yesterday I came home and found it looking pretty awful. Not opening (most of it). I immediately tested all parameters.. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate all at zero and PH is 8.3. By the way, I've been battling nitrate of 20-25 since the tank finished it's cycle (all the while the xenia was doing great). I've been doing 10%-15% water changes every 5 days to reduce the nitrate (last night was the first test at 0).
My question is about chemical warfare...Is it possible the acropora has released a chemical that's really irritating the Xenia? There is plenty of space between them...Should I be dosing Iodine? I figured that the frequency of my water changes would be good enough...
<<Yes, they are a stinger, but, contact would have to be made for this to occur...could it be the xenia is swaying onto the acropora? as you mention there is already distance between them. Can only be general here as you don't mention the specific acropora you have. Do not dose iodine unless your testing for iodine and this test is showing a deficiency. You water changes should normally replenish this element. Any other corals near to the xenia?
Thank you!!!!!!!!
<<Hope this helps, A Nixon>>

Xenia Trouble...? - 05/31/08
Hello Crew,
<Michael>
I have a question about my (Regular) Pulsing Xenia. I have had my tank up and running for about 2 1/2 months and I have had my Xenia in there pretty much since my take was established. The Xenia has been doing great, I have propagated it several times with successful results. The other week, I moved the rock because it was too close to the glass.
Since then one of the stalks was rubbing against another piece of live rock (I thought nothing of it). Now, that same stalk looks like it is dying all the polyp types have turned white, many have disintegrated and it seems like it is spreading to the other stalks that are near-by. Any ideas what has caused this?
<Mmm, yes...>
Have you folks heard of this situation before?
<Quite often>
Will the rest of my live stock be harmed?
<Only if the water becomes polluted. Likely only the Xenia will perish>
I have about $3,000 in other coral specimens in my tank, including Blue Xenia.
<!? In 2.5 mo.s!?>
The blue Xenia doesn't really pulse very much, but I have the smaller white color Xenia and it is still pulsing like crazy, as are the other specimens of (regular xenia). I just completed a 10g water change, have not checked the levels yet, I know that Xenia is pretty finicky when it comes to the water conditions. But all my other corals are thriving, so I am not sure why the (regular) Xenia is going downhill, but it seems like every other coral is doing well. That would lead me to believe that the water may not be the problem?
<Sometimes pulsing corals do "crash" population wise... can be triggered by part of a colony's distress, dying... There's not much to do to stop this... other than moving parts of the colonies elsewhere>
Please Let me know if you have any ideas or what actions I should take..
A little about my tank, it is a Custom built 75 gallon (L36"xH24"xW20")
<With 3k in livestock?>
fully built reef system with built in refugium, I have 4 blue/green chromis, 6-line wrasse, Dragon Goby, Coral Beauty, Hermit Crabs/snails, Yellow Stripe maroon Clown, Rose BTA,
<... trouble with other Cnidarians in such a new system of small volume>
Lighting is provided by a Current Orbit Series (150w MH, 2x 96w Actinic, 4 LEDs)
Best Regards,
Mike, So-Cali
<... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
Bob Fenner>

Xenia Tube-Pest  9/26/07
Hey All,
<Hi Ted>
I have an unidentified pest eating my xenia elongata and occasionally my pom-pom xenia. It seems to live inside the rock on which the xenia have attached. I have not seen the pest itself but it forms almost translucent fibrous tube with bits of sand leading to where it has eaten. If I destroy the tube or block up the hole, it will return within a day to a few weeks.
It has appeared only on one other rock but quickly disappeared without xenia nearby to munch on. I have not tried to chemically treat the holes (similar to Aiptasia treatments) because I don't know with what I am dealing and do not want any collateral damage to the xenia.
<Very strange... any chance you can get a picture?>
Thanks for All of Your Help
Ted
<Best,
Sara M.>

Inking xenia   5/19/07
I purchased a pulsing xenia at the LFS today. And after an hour or two I noticed it nice and puffed up looking full of life but slumping to one side,
<Typical... takes a while, days to acclimate...>
so I tried to help it stand straight,
<No!>
but when I did it deflated! And a purple looking fluid was released and now its slumped with no sign of life! Anyone ever heard of this? Is it dangerous for my clean up crew? Did I kill it? Please help that you Joe
<... Please... read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/xeniidarts.htm
The linked files above. RMF>

Xeniid system/health Q's 3/19/07
Thanks so much for the advice.
<I welcome you to our help in Bob's stead. GrahamT here.> <Heeeee! Welcome yourself! RMF>
I will keep watching.
I wonder if I could bother you with one or two more issues.
<Well... I... guess so.>
I cannot keep xenia.
<You aren't alone, my friend. Many have problems with this coral. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/xeniidfaqs3.htm >
I know you have heard it before but I am determined.   
<Good.>
I keep trading starpolyps for small pieces and came across some info I questioned.  I understood xenia to be one of the few (if any others) that do not participate in chemical warfare.   
<Well, they participate, just usually on the receiving end. As I understand it, they don't broadcast their chemicals into the water column as most other warring parties do. They can still kill by direct contact, though. There are some good pieces available on the internet that document the war between soft and stony corals. There are very many more and better catalogued pieces at a nice library.>
the piece I saw in Reef.com said they kill off Acropora easily.  Can you clear that up.
<Just did, oops. See above.>
Each time I add xenia it seems fine for the first 24 hours and then condenses to solid white polyps. My non-pulsing anthelia is reproducing and my xenia keeps turning into balls.   
<Mmm, this is a clue, methinks. Anthelia is winning the one-sided war.>
I keep playing with alkalinity and salinity making sure the rest of the reef does no suffer.   
<There are those that swear by Xenia's need for iodine to thrive. I think that your water changes probably maintain high enough levels of iodine so that this is probably not the issue. I would consider adding some fresh carbon to the system and trying a small piece of xenia upstream (as it were) from the anthelia, though not in direct current. Sound do-able?>
Do you have any suggestions for me?
<Umm, yeah. (See above)>
thanks Cathy
<-GrahamT>

Pulsing Xenia died. Sys. comp. research, read! 3/6/07
Hi
<Hello, GrahamT here.>
I have been using your sight <Site.> as a much needed learning curve. I would much appreciate your advice.
<I'm all your's.>
I am a new reefer, 20 gallon tank ±3 months old. I recently purchased pink pulsing xenia. They were doing fine for 1 week and then stopped pulsing, closed up and shrunk. 2 days later they were dead and mucusy - I removed the stump.
<Good plan.>
NO2 ; ph 8.3; sg 1.024; salinity 31.
<Need NO3 numbers, temperature...>
It is a orca nano tank. Living rock (1/4 of tank amount) and crushed shells base. The tank had a protein skimmer. Do I need to improve water flow
<Probably...>
or try your sites Kalkwasser?
<Not without a means to measure the calcium first.>
Lighting is not possible to change in this system. I had been using tapwater  and was fine with other corals i.e. recent purchased colt coral, 2x small toadstool frags, 2x zoanthids and to button polyps,
<All these species are much easier/more tolerant of poor water conditions.>
do I  need to purchase ROD water would this help?
<It won't hurt, and may be the cause, yes. I can't be sure without test results of the source water.>
I do water changes ± 1 weekly, small amounts Maintaining same temp and salinity as tank. I have a cleanup crew :-1 cleaner shrimp, 2 orange hermit crabs, 3 turbo snails.
<Xenia is not the easiest customer to keep in a small system. They do need moderate to heavy flow and near-pristine water conditions, among others. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/xeniidfaqs.htm read links in blue.>
When Xenia was placed in tank it started pumping within first few hours. I added 2 ocilarius <Ocellaris.> clown fish and the shrimp became quite territorial.
<How big is this nano? Not big enough perhaps?>
It's home is the same rock as the one the xenia were on. It kept flicking them making them close up.
<Mmm.>
The following morning after this I found the frag had been dislodged so I epoxied <Epoxy?> them on as advised by my LFS. They did not re-pulse.
<I would chalk this one up to inexperience and ill-preparedness. Do your research and decide for yourself what your Xenia need(ed) and how you could make your system more habitable for it. You should plan your system around the species you want to keep, not what the LFS has in stock. Good luck!
-GrahamT>
thanks Louise

Re: Pulsing Xenia died. Sys. comp. research, read! (pt.2) 3/7/07
Hi thank you for your prompt reply, please excuse my spelling as I am preoccupied with the kids; i.e.., a quick email is all I can achieve at times.
<Bless you! I *do* understand. Sorry for my lag in replying!>
The xenia though both our choice was my son's purchase and we both would like to have them in the future, if I can get the tank conditions more suitable.
Do you have a list of books (hopefully available in UK) that may help us to achieve xenia in our tank.
<Oh yes! The "Book of Coral Propagation" by Anthony R. Calfo; "A Practical Guide to Corals for the Reef Aquarium" by Eric Borneman; "The Reef Aquarium: Science, Art, and Technology, Vol. 3" by Julian Sprung and Charles Delbeek. These are all very good reads, and I think any one might be the only one you need.>
Any other options available for research; i.e.., in UK or is the web the best/accurate direction forward?
<Well, the WWW will give you different opinions, which can be very useful, as long as your BS-filter is up to date and efficient. It is also blessed by being current and constantly updated.>
My LFS, though highly recommended, just said to put them in the tank and give them a go, as they have no problems placing them in their main display tank.
<I would bet their main display tank is very established and larger as well. Never trust anyone who says to just "give it a shot" without prompting you to do any research. I agree with what you find here on WWM about Xenia. It can be very low-maintenance, but some people have just the opposite experience. Either it grows like weeds, or turns to poop.>
I am left worried about other future advice that may be needed.
<Everything from retailers should be taken with respect to their position: they make money on the sale of livestock and equipment. That doesn't mean they don't know what they're talking about. To the contrary, they may be giving you the advice that they think you need, and believe to be right. At the end of the day, however, they depend on selling you livestock and equipment. Some stores look deeper than the end of the day, like the end of the year, and protect their investment in you by making sure you stay in the hobby. These are the LFS's to look for.>
(ps I use Marine buffer to maintain my ph at 8.3 and feed LiquiFry marine food for filter feeders; my temp is a constant 78; I will purchase the No3 and get a reading for you (do you have a recommendation of a best/easy to use test kit); no2 is<0.3mg/l)
<I have been using the Sera NO3 kit, but really do hate color comparisons when there is a titration test available. The Sera low-range kit is simple in that, if you have any color develop, you probably need to take action. Salifert and Lamotte are some of the best, IMO.>
Much appreciated Louise
<Welcome!
-GrahamT>

Why Can’t I Grow Xenia? – 02/21/07
Greetings,
<<Hello>>
I am having a problem with pulsing xenia.
<<Not uncommon...some folks can’t grow it...some folks have trouble getting rid of it...and sooner or later it all seems to just “crash”>>
Located in 30-gal tall octagonal tank attached to a 75 gal reef tank.  The octagonal tank has only a mated pair of mandarins, macroalgae and I had a large colt coral.
<<Mmm, this last may be part of your problem...very noxious>>
The xenia all of a sudden looked awful.  It took me a week to find the time to test the water...  Tested my pH and it was low for xenia, 8.0.  I immediately did a water change and after about 24 hours got the pH back to 8.3. Xenia looked better this morning and I got home from work tonight and it looks awful again.  I also decided to move the colt coral to the main tank.
<<A good decision...although, with these tanks “attached” the noxious chemicals exuded by the colt coral are still in the system water reaching the xenia>>
Salinity 1.024,
<<1.025/26 (closer to NSW) would be better appreciated by your corals and may be another factor re your problems here>>
Temp 78-80, the pH is usually 8.3 but I did find it close to 8.0 two days ago before lights went on.
<<I wouldn’t think this to be much of an issue>>
I am not sure why.  I drip Kalkwasser most nights (about 1gal) and had not for a few busy nights.  Never a problem in the past but concerned me the other day.
<<When using this methodology, it is best to use on a “continuous” basis for reasons of system stability...as you can see>>
Ammonia and nitrates 0.  No way to test iodine so I started putting in 2m. each morning to help them out.
<<2 milliliters?  Do be careful here...be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions closely...and get an iodine test kit>>
The pulsing xenia look shriveled and almost like a chemical burn might seem to look if that does not sound too crazy.
<<Not crazy...and may very well be so (remember that colt coral)>>
Can you suggest some test I might perform.
<<Not for allelopathy...but make no mistake, it is present in your (everyone’s) system>>
Why do you think I have such problems with pulsing xenia.
<<Aside from the fact that these organisms seem to “wax and wane” with the best of care,  xenia can be particularly sensitive to water chemistry/ chemical poisoning (some aquarists have stated to me they view their xenia as a kind of “canary in the mine.”  Employing some purposeful chemical filtration will always help your system, and may make a difference with the xenia.  A dedicated canister filter with carbon “and” Poly-Filter is highly recommended here>>
I have a wonderful 75-gal reef tank with hard and soft corals.  All doing fine.
<<And all “fighting the chemical fight”...just likely more resilient mix of organisms than the xenia>>
I know you are not supposed to mix but for 3 years I have been lucky I even (was afraid to admit) have a bubble anemone (3 years old) with clowns, Regal tang, Pseudochromis, Sailfin blenny, Ricordea, mushrooms, frogspawn, gorgonian, zooanthids, dish coral, and star polyps. and Acropora.
<<Mmm, indeed...I wish you continued good luck>>
The hard corals are at one end and soft at another and it has worked out well so far.  Can you suggest any problem with xenia.  This is actually my third try.
<<Ideally, separate the xenia system from the mixed garden reef system...else employ/add more chemical filtration to mitigate the effects of the chemical aggression.  And read here, among the associated links to get more info re others experience/opinions with this organism: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/xeniidfaqs2.htm
And maybe do a Google search on our site re “chemical aggression” and “allelopathy.”  Regards, EricR>>

Who Done It? Xeniid death...   1/19/07
Recently I purchased my first coral ( xenia ) and my big rock that they came on is a coral wasteland now. They never opened all the way either... in fact the guy said if I had problems with them he would replace them on Saturday with a new one( so I'm not worried about replacing them.)
<...>
although I would like to know who knocked them off the rock and to the ground and ate the leaves of them. Here are the only candidates.
Porcupine puffer ( generally unless its REALLY food and being put in with a net which he follows back and forth like a little puppy he doesn't pay attention to it what so ever.  Also while on the ground he doesn't mess with them he only likes living food )
<A definite possibility>
Dwarf puffers ( they eat anything but haven't taken much notice to the coral
)
<Can do so>
Unidentified fish..... I have 2 that were gifted to me I'm told they are blue velvet damsels but they are the size of the average 5 month old Oscar and I haven't seen damsels get to
<too>
large. They change color from a white to navy blue. They bite at the coral corpses on the ground  Hope that helps
<Not likely candidates>
The anemones have taken hold elsewhere in the tank and haven't moved so they are in the clear.
<Mmm, no... can/do affect other life, particularly Cnidarians, distally... chemically>
Clowns liked to play with them as if they were anemones but never eat them that I noticed.
Green chromis... they are cute and harmless  ( I think ) never do anything
wrong
A devil damsel...... generally sticks to himself never really interacts with the tank
Coral banded shrimp hasn't to my knowledge crossed the tank from his usual cave to do anything he usually sits waiting for food in his cave. On the lower left while the coral is in the upper right.
<Stenopids are opportunistic feeders... could be at fault here>
The scallop and snails I don't see doing anything
<Some snails...>
I just want to know since I am getting another one on Saturday which I should relocate to my sons tank as it could use a few more fish anyway.
Just about anything in the tank is expendable to the other tank anyway cept the porcupine puffer the wife loves him... so I can't touch him but the rest I can deal with.
<Likely one of the Puffers... but could be none of the above... Environmental lacking... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/xeniiddisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above... And re the Systems, Compatibility of this mish-mash aggregation... each species. Bob Fenner>

Dead Xenia   1/3/07
I am new to this site and have read much of your excellent info.
<Welcome!  Glad you found us!  Mich with you today.>
  I'm hoping someone can help me out with a minor disaster currently happening in my tank.  
<Minor disaster...jumbo shrimp...oxymoron?>
I have had a pulsing Xenia for about 1 month that was doing very well.  
<OK.>
Overnight, it crashed and never recovered (PH was good during the day, did not test after extended darkness though)  As soon as the Xenia started to go south, both of my shrimp (cleaner and peppermint) died.  
<Likely something else caused the death of all three.>
My fish all seem fine, water levels are fine, and polyps are fine.  
<These organisms may be more tolerant to whatever took out the Xenia and the shrimp.>
I have a 100 gallon with 330 watts of light.  Could the Xenia have emitted something toxic that affected the shrimp?  
<Again, unlikely.  Xenia is a good bioassay organism in that it will warn you of a problem by promptly dying, sort of like a canary in a coal mine.>  
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'd really like to have Xenia again.
<Sounds like a potential contamination event.  Source could have been internal or external to the system.  Is there anything missing from your system other than the Xenia and the shrimp?  Did anyone in the household "help out" by wiping the walls of the tank down with a cleaner such as Windex?  I would review your recent activities around the tank... this may help identify the source of the problem.  I think you should be able to keep Xenia at some point in the future, but I would not add Xenia for a while.>  
minus the melting.
<Yes, not pretty, ...and even worse smelling!>
Thanks!
<Welcome and good luck!  -Mich>

Xenia Rebound?    11/4/06
Hello:
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I need some advice. I have a 12 gallon Nano tank 1 fish some  hard & soft corals. I got out of my routine and water parameters dropped  (salt, PH Calcium).
<Yikes! I guess that serves as a good example for everyone about the high degree of diligence required when caring for "nano" reefs.>
Through water changes I am getting everything back to where  it should be. I lost a couple of hard corals. My Xenia is withering...does  anybody know if it will bounce back?
<In my experience, Xenia has proven to be remarkably resilient. If it was thriving before, and if you can duplicate the conditions which it was thriving under, you can often expect it to bounce back with renewed vigor. I would keep doing what you're doing, be patient, and hope or the best! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Carpet Cleaned, Xenia Sick 9/13/06
Hello, Crew. <Hi> I am now seven months into my new saltwater tank in my office.  Three weeks ago they came and cleaned the carpets.  I came in on Sunday to check on things and the smell of carpet cleaning solution was strong. <Did this for a short while, chemicals used in commercial setting is pretty nasty stuff.> I opened all the windows and did a 10% water change and changed the carbon. <Good>  Things looked fine for awhile, but now my xenia and Montipora are dying and the first hint of nitrates (5) have appeared since finishing cycling. <Xenia tends to be very sensitive to these types of things, and probably so die-off on the LR fueling the nitrate increase.>   The pH previously cycled between 8.0 and 8.2 daily, now rarely gets above 8.0 (low 7.8 early AM).  I have added Seachem Buffer twice, but the pH drifts back down in a few days. <Something wrong chemically for sure.> I have replaced the carbon twice and done multiple 10% water changes. <Good> Today I removed the Chemipure filter media in case it was leaching toxins back into the tank. <Good idea.>  All other inhabitants look fine (Sinularia, mushrooms, yellow colony polyps, Lobophyllia,  rose anemone, Galaxea, Tridacna crocea, cleaner shrimp, one yellow tang, one damsel, one maroon clown, seven blue-green Chromis and multiple various snails).
The tank is a 65 gal with 94# live rock and DSB.  Two 150W MH 14K lights.  17gal LifeReef sump and skimmer.  Temp 78-80, SG 1.024, Ca++ 340ppm, Alk 3.6meq/L, no phosphates, ammonia, nitrite.
Do you think the fumes are the culprit? <Most likely.> Do I need to replace the DSB as a possible source of continued pollution? <No>
Do I remove the Montipora (color fading, but no obvious necrosis)? <Would give it time, see if it comes back.>  Any other suggestions or just wait it out.  
Thanks  
Hugh
<Keep up the water changes and carbon replacement.  Also try some PolyFilters, very good at removing chemical contaminates.>
<Chris>

-Xenia in trouble?-  - 09/03/06
Bob and wonderful staff,
<Todd, you have Justin tonight.>
Update on my BTA getting caught in the powerhead:  It's been just over a week since I learned the hard way about NOT covering powerhead intakes with
a BTA in the tank.  Well, powerheads are covered and the BTA appears to be doing well.  Thanks for all you help.
<Good to hear, they can get themselves into very interesting situations cant they.  Glad yours is doing better.>
Now with the another hard lesson learned by a new reef daddy.. DO NOT ADD AMQUEL+ to your tank!  I was starting to get a Cyanobacteria bloom due to
increase in my Nitrate readings (0 - 10ppm to 10 - 20ppm).  So what did I do?  Added some Amquel+ to lower the Nitrate level to (in theory) kill off
my Cyanobacteria problem.  Instead, my pulsing xenia within minutes beginning to look like something out of Tim Burton's Nightmare Before
Christmas.  I immediately did a 20% water change and plan on doing another one today (the day after).  Is there any chance the xenia will pull through?
All the other corals look good.
<Tis possible, keep up the water changes and try not to move or overly stress the xenia.  Have a lot of current blowing near the coral, but not directly on.  Xenia is generally incredibly hardy if it "takes" to a tank, and can be considered a weed at times, so yours should bounce back.  Don't ever use any product to remove nitrate or ammonia in an established tank,  why waste money and risk tank health when a bag of salt and a water change will fix it all right up.>
Thanks,
Todd
<Justin>

About Xenia... dis., comp.   8/23/06
I having problems to keep any species of xenia in my reef tank. I would like someone advanced aquarists to help me solve the problem.
  I tried to keep a lots of different species xenia but no one can success. Water quality?
<Possibly>
Lighting?
<Not likely>
Water movement?
<Could be>
Nutrients? PH? I do everything but did not see the result. Still cannot keep xenia in my reef tank.
  My tank size:
  36"x18"x18" with 15gallons sump with feather Caulerpa filter with 24hrs daylight lighting. with Plenum and 4" 2mm sand bed. 20kg live rock in main tank.   
  equipments:
  1 (Eheim) return pump 3396l/hr
  2 (Seio) water movement pumps 2400/hr
  1 (Aquanic) water movement pump 1500/hr
  1 (AquaMedic) Skimmer with pump 2500L/hr
  1 280watts chiller   
  This is my tank water parameter:
  PH         - 8.3
  Ammonia - 0mg/L
  Nitrite      - 0mg/L
  Total Nitrate - 20mg/L
<A bit high... would keep no more than half this>
  Phosphate  - 0mg/L
  dKH         - 11-12dKH
  salinity     - 1.0235
<Better near 1.025>
  Temperature - 26.5C
  Calcium       - 450mg/L
  Magnesium  - 1300mg/L   
  * I use SeaChem Reef Plus twice a week to maintain the iodine and trace element, and Kalkwasser to makeup water.
   <Might be something in how you're administering these last two>
  Lighting:
  1 14k T5
  1 Actinic T5
  1 12k  fluorescent (sera)
  2 actinic fluorescents (Acadia)   
  Fishes:
  1 yellow tang
  1 blue hippo tang
  2 clown fish
  3 green Chromis
  1 sixline wrasse
  1 flasher wrasse   
  others:
  2 cleaner shrimps
  1 blue legged hermit crab   
  corals:
  LPSs: 1 open brain, 1 green galaxy.
  soft coral : yellow polyps, different species buttons and different types of mushrooms.
   <Very likely allelopathy with these other cnidarians>
  Problem:
  - every time i added new xenia into my tank the xenia not open sometime will melted within 2days.
  - sometime the xenia looks unhappy and dry look then slowly die off.
  -then i tried to buy the established xenia from the LFS. the polyps open very nice in the LFS established reef tank with only actinic light.
<Don't need actinic...>
When i put it in my tank 1st day still open but not like at the LFS. 2nd day the polyps open bigger then 1st day. 3rd and 4th day looks good polyps open nicely, but till 5th day it looks unhappy the polyps looks dry again.....:( is no reason every things is ok but only xenia. I really loves this coral but very hard to keep :( why? why? why?
  - others coral in my tank doing very well and spreading very fast like button. Maybe i got no luck with xenia :(   
  Steve xxxxx
<Mmm... I would try adding whatever Xeniid to a separate "go-between" tank, with only partial water from your system, the rest all new... adding some more tank water weekly... Please read on WWM re Pulsing Corals: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/xeniidarts.htm
and the linked files above, as well as searching, reading re the terms mentioned above. Bob Fenner>

Re: About Xenia... dis., comp., using WWM   8/24/06
Dear FAQ Crew,
   <Steve>
  Thanks for your advice.
  Having some more questions.:   
  1. You said my NO3 level 20mg/L a bit high. Have to reduce it more then half of this.
<Yes>
  Current tank system is using 5 ways to reduce the NO3 level. 1. Protein skimmer (Aquamedic Turboflotor), 2. Caulerpa refugium (24hrs lighting), 3. Plenum system at the main tank, 4. ALGONE pouch, and 5. 10% water change every week. Last time my tank NO3 level was more then 100mg/L, now reduced to 20mg/L only. And i using so many way that still can maintain at 20mg/L only, so how to reduce more then half of this?
   <Mmm... add a DSB, other macro-algae... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
and the linked files above>
  2. You ask me to increase the spg to 1.025. Is that will shock the live stock?
<No... do gradually... with water changes>
Is that have to increase a bit by a bit between few days? My LFS told me spg too high the fish will infected saltwater ich, is that true?
<To some extent, yes>
My clown fishs sometime got white spots, the day after they will gone by itself. Few days later the white spots will come back and infected my clown fishs again. If i increase the spg, the white spots can be come more serious?
   <See WWM re Cryptocaryon... you seem to have a latent infestation... best to deal with this...>
  3. You said must be something i administering Kalkwasser and SeaChem reef plus to course failed my Xeniid.
<?... possibly an influence, yes>
This is the method to i administering this two. I tested my tap water is no nitrate so i did not use RO water. I add dechlorinator to tap water and mixed with Kalkwasser powder let it settle for few hrs. Extract the clear layer of Kalkwasser and drip it to my tank at night. I apply the SeaChem reef plus twice a week.
<To? I would introduce this only through water changes>
when reef plus added to the tank, I'll disconnected the protein skimmer for 1 hr. I using reef plus to maintain the iodine and trace elements for Xeniid as GARF website.
  Is the method have any problem?
   <Yes, possibly>
  4. If the calcium level of my tank is not a problem 450mg/L and the dKH also in the right level 11-12dKH, how can i increase the ph level up to 8.4 an above?
<... there are a few ways... posted on WWM>
Can i using Kalkwasser to push the ph up?
<I would not>
coz last time i using buffer, problem is buffer will push the dKH up as well till the dKH level up to 17dKH.
<Bingo... time to send you again... back to reading... on WWM re Kalk, Alkalinity, pH...>
  5. About Xeniid. At night is the Xeniid polyps will close and not expand? Is that normal?   
  Thanks again   
  Steve XXXXXX
<Please, learn to, use WWM, the indices, search tool... Bob Fenner>

Xenia disappearance   8/11/06
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
Overnight, it looks like one of the main stems of my month-old Xenia disappeared, leaving only an attachment stub (that still has two very small new "sprouts" showing).  Although I see no obvious signs of a struggle, I suspect foul play.
<Could be...>
Other tank residents include 2 Gobies, 3 Peppermint Shrimp (who did a remarkable job eating my Aiptasia, over the 5 weeks I've had them in there), one Fireshrimp, 3 (supposedly) algae eating Hermit crabs, and one unidentified hitchhiker crab, dime-sized or smaller.
<... could be any of the crustaceans... or...>
For what it's worth, the tank has also had a Sarcophyton for 9 months, and it has never had any problems.
Thanks for your thoughts,
Tom
<And there are situations in which pulsing soft corals do "just fail"... sometimes quite rapidly. Please read on WWM re the propensity (Compatibility) for each of the crustaceans listed to get along, and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/xeniidarts.htm
and the linked files above for insight into captive Xeniid Behavior, Systems... Bob Fenner>