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FAQs on Violet Gobies Disease
Related Articles:
There's a Dragon In My Tank! The
bizarre and beautiful Dragon Goby
By Jeni C. Tyrell,
Fresh
to Brackish Gobioid Fishes,
Related FAQs:
Dragon/Violet Gobies 1,
Dragon/Violet Gobies 2, & FAQs on:
Dragon/Violet Gobies Identification,
Dragon/Violet Gobies Behavior,
Dragon/Violet Gobies Compatibility,
Dragon/Violet Gobies Selection,
Dragon/Violet Gobies Systems,
Dragon/Violet Gobies Feeding,
Dragon/Violet Gobies Reproduction, &
Brackish Water Fishes in General,
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Help! My Dragon Goby just
died! 5/2/09
Hello,
It has been a sad day.
<Sorry to hear that.>
Our Dragon goby just died. Last night at feeding time he started to swim
all haphazard, swimming backwards, upside down and on his side (we
called him Zimbo, and generally called him a "him", but we don't know
what sex he was). He looked like he was having convulsions and was
gasping for air!
We knew something was not right, but didn't know what to do! It was our
usual tank cleaning night, so we changed out about 30% of the water,
added more salt, and water treatment, but he passed away this afternoon.
Now we are afraid for the rest of our fish. Will they all die? What
should we do?
<Whenever a fish dies unexpectedly, you should start by assuming a
problem with the water rather than a disease. As such, review the
basics: water quality, water chemistry, temperature, circulation and the
possibility of toxins such as paint fumes or cleaning chemicals.>
Just a little background on the set up that we have and how we have been
caring for our fish. First, I would like to let you know that this is
our first time ever caring for fish. Having said that...We thought that
we
would get our son a fish, maybe a goldfish, for his fifth birthday. We
bought a 10-gallon tank kit and took our son to the store to pick out a
few freshwater fish. He fell in love with two dragon gobies, a black
finned
shark (catfish), and a plecostomus (sp.?).
<While Dragon/Violet Gobies (Gobioides spp.) and Black-fin Shark Catfish
(Sciades seemanni) are brackish water fish, the Plecostomus (likely
Pterygoplichthys sp.) is not. Water conditions that would suit the first
two would be dangerous for the third.>
The lady at the store informed us that those fish would be good
together, but that they were saltwater fish and would need higher
temperatures.
<Eh? No, no, no. The Plecostomus catfish doesn't really like salt at
all.
While it would tolerate a small amount, say, 1.003 at 25 C, that's far
too little for either the Goby or the Shark Catfish which both need
around 1.005-1.015 to do well, ideally something in the middle once
mature, 1.010, about 15-16 grammes of marine salt mix per litre of
water.>
Our tank kit came with heating lamps, so she said that would do, and
sent us home with a package of aquarium salt.
<Is this plain aquarium salt or marine salt mix? For brackish water
fish, you must use marine salt mix because you're not just interested in
salinity but also pH and carbonate hardness.>
After a few days, we started reading more about our fish on the
internet.
It turns out that they need brackish water and maybe a different
substrate than we have (we have gravel ).
<These Gobies do indeed need sandy substrates that allow them to dig.>
We have been changing about 25-30% of the water every week, using our
gravel vacuum. We have a ten gallon tank, but we found out that we are
definitely going to need to upgrade!
<For any one of the fish you have, let alone all three! For the Goby and
the Shark Catfish (which is, by the way, a schooling fish and needs 2 or
more friends) we're looking at something upwards of 55 gallons, and
realistically quite a bit more space than that; 100 gallons would not be
out of line in all honesty. Shark Cats are frenetically active, and in
small tanks, often pine away, treading water in the corner looking
miserable.>
When we change the water, we pour the new tap water into the tank, then
add the aquarium salt, then the water conditioner (that says it is good
for removing chlorine and chloramines). We feed the fish once a day, at
night, and usually it is a mixture of tropical flakes and granules,
plus, freeze dried blood worms about twice a week. We tried freeze dried
shrimp, but they were not interested.
<Both the Goby and the Shark Catfish are specialists. The Goby needs a
mix of algae wafers, live brine shrimp, and wet frozen invertebrate
foods such as bloodworms and krill. The Shark Catfish will happily eat
wet frozen invertebrates but also enjoys chunky seafood: cockles, squid,
mussels, prawns, etc. These catfish usually take good quality catfish
pellets too.>
Also, our second goby has been hiding out inside the sunken ship
decoration for about a week. Her name is Lucy. She looked like she was
sick for a little while there, but is looking much better (we were only
adding a 1/2 a tsp. of aquarium salt/gallon, but then upped it to
1tsp./gallon when I read that that might help her).
<Not nearly enough salt. At minimum, juveniles should be kept at SG
1.005 at 25 C, that's about 9 grammes (1.5 level teaspoons) of marine
salt mix per litre. When kept in non-brackish conditions, issues such as
Finrot are common. Download my Brack Calc application (Mac and Windows)
at the link below; use this to determine the amount of salt you need to
add to each bucket of new water. Note that temperature affects specific
gravity, but both your brackish water species should be kept at the
usual 25 C that most hydrometers are calibrated to.
http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/Programs/brackcalc.html
Don't use tonic salt or aquarium salt; use marine salt mix.>
After reading your site, I think that she may have had fin rot.
<Treat this with an antibiotic.>
Now, her fins look much healthier, but she still seems to have no
appetite or desire to come out of hiding. Zimbo, the one who died,
always seemed healthy. He had a good appetite and a zany personality (no
indication of fin rot, or anything). His death is a mystery to me. :)
<Not to me, unfortunately.>
So, my question is: are we doing ANYTHING right?
<Not really, no.>
What do you think happened to our goby?
<These gobies will not last long in freshwater, or freshwater with token
amounts of tonic salt added.>
Should we be adding marine salt instead of aquarium salt?
<Yes.>
And is it ok to add it directly to the tank, or do we need to add it
before pouring the clean water in?
<You always add salt to each bucket of water, estimating the amount
needed using Brack Calc for example. Stir well. Once you're done, use a
hydrometer to check the specific gravity. If necessary, add more salt or
water if needed (though in reality slight variation in salinity does no
harm at all). Add the new water to the aquarium. Don't dramatically
increase the salinity of your aquarium in one fell swoop: that will
stress the filter bacteria. You certainly need to raise the salinity
(after the Plec is taken out, of course) but do this in stages. Start by
replacing the water you have in 25% chunks, adding new water at SG 1.005
at 25 C. Leave 7 days between each such water change. After about 6
weeks you should find the aquarium has stabilised at SG 1.005 and the
filter is working happily.
Leave things like this for the next 3-6 months, doing water changes with
SG 1.005 water. But after a few months, you may decide your fish are
growing up and in the case of the Catfish, quite likely looking
restless. This is the time to nudge the salinity upwards. As before, do
a series of weekly water changes with water at SG 1.007-1.008. Once
you're up at the elevate salinity, leave things running at that level
again for a few months. Repeat this cycle again using 1.010 water, until
your tank reaches the optimal specific gravity of 1.010.>
Should we be feeding them more often?
<Possibly, but more than likely the type of food being offered is the
issue, not the quantity.
Can these fish live together or do they need separate aquariums?
<Plec no; Goby and Shark catfish, yes, albeit in a very large aquarium.
Dragon Gobies get to 40-50 cm in length, depending on the species. Shark
Catfish routinely exceed 20-25 cm in captivity, and wild fish are quite
a lot bigger. They are super-active fish, and need strong water current
or they become listless.>
Any suggestions would be helpful!
Thank you so much,
Monica
<Do start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/bracsystems.htm
When you're done with the linked files there, buy or borrow my "Brackish
Water Fishes" book if you want even more information. Although
incredibly adaptable fish, brackish water fish do have certain
requirements, and things like tankmates should be chosen with great
care. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Help! My Dragon Goby just
died! & Plecos in gen. – 05/02/09
Wow, thank you, Neale!
<Pleasure.>
Such great advice! We will definitely be doing everything you suggested
ASAP! Just a few questions, though...
To treat the goby for the fin rot, should we put her in a separate tank
for the treatment?
<No real point. Treat the Goby along with all the other fish, unless
there's a compelling water chemistry or financial cost to do otherwise.
If treating the Goby in its own aquarium, keep the tank basically empty,
but
us a PVC tube for a burrow; these Gobies love such homes!>
Also, when we move the Plec to his own tank, should it be freshwater,
then?
<Ideally, yes.>
Can you suggest any companions?
<Almost anything. Plecs tend not to get along with other Plecs, but
beyond that, they're basically bomb-proof, so work well with all sorts
of things. Ideal companions would be medium-sized midwater fish:
Rainbowfish, Congo tetras, Bleeding heart tetras, Giant Danios. Plecs
also work well with most
cichlids, including Angelfish, Firemouths, Kribs and so on.>
Is the gravel that we have in our current tank ok for him?
<Plain gravel is fine. Plecs do like to dig, but they tend to be messy,
so it's just as good to use plain vanilla gravel.>
Are the tropical fish flakes and pellets ok to feed him, or does he need
something special as well?
<Regular food is good, but Plecs do enjoy stuff from the kitchen. Bits
of carrot, sweet potato, courgette (zucchini) and cucumber all go down
well.
Some of these sink, some float, in which case, tie with a rubber band to
a rock or something. You can get special "screwcumbers" and other such
devices for the purpose too. Once a week, offer something meaty to chew
on: a prawn, a small piece of white fish, a clam or mussel on the
half-shell.>
What about temperature?
<Most anything should do, but ideally 25 C/77 F.>
Our current tank has two heat lamps. We turn them on during the day and
off at night. The tank stays in a temperature range of about 78 degrees
F to 82 degrees F.
<A trifle warm, so do check circulation of the water is good, or else
you may have oxygen problems at the bottom of the tank. I'd always
recommend against heat lamps for warming aquaria, but if you must use
them, adjust the time they're on so the tank varies between no lower
than 18 C / 64 F at night and no higher than 30 C / 82 F in the
daytime.>
Thanks so much for everything! We will definitely check out your book!
Thanks, Monica
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Learning to speak Violet Dragon Goby 3/9/09
Greetings! I've been reading on your site and others about dragon gobies having
recently acquired two. They started out in my 80 gallon community tank and
seemed very happy living with the rest of the community. Digging their own
tunnels under the decorations, burying themselves from time to time into the
sandy sections created for them. The community consists of : 2 Opaline
gouramis 2 peacock eels 2 adult black lyre tail mollies 2 adult silver mollies 4
pot belly mollies 25 silver molly fry 1 plecostomus 1 African feather fin cat
fish 12 red Platys One of the gobies seems to be more reclusive than the
other hiding in caves most of the time, rarely seen even at feeding time unless
the decorations are disturbed and the other, active and visible especially at
feeding time. Diet consists of Algae tablets, brine shrimp, Spirulina brine
shrimp and blood worms with occasional sprinkles of flake food. I noticed that
the recluse had developed a film of what appeared to be a fine coating of sand
or tiny air bubbles all over his body. At first I thought it was ICK and treated
the tank accordingly for 7 days...treat, wait 48 hrs, water change and treat
again, wait another 48 hrs water change wait 24 hrs and treat again. At the end
of the treatment there was no change so I asked the local fish store and
determined it might be Velvet and treated for that. After 48 hours we finally
got them into their own 65 gallon brackish home with a salinity at the low end
of brackish .001 since moving them into their brackish home, they have both
taken to floating vertically taking large gulps of air and blowing it out
through their gills swimming horizontally from time to time but spending most of
their time in that vertical position. What I think was velvet seems to have
reduced in size but they don't seem to be doing as well in the brackish tank as
they were in the fresh water tank... Any recommendations or thoughts would be
appreciated. I looked on line but couldn't find anyone with similar issues.
Thanks in advance Wizard <Greetings. I'm not familiar with this particular
problem, and certainly haven't seen Gobioides spp. do this. Velvet and Ick could
both be treated simply by maintaining these gobies in the brackish water system.
Raising the temperature to around 28-30 C (82-86 F) will speed up the life
cycle, and that will shift the parasites from the host into the water column,
where the salinity should kill them. Personally, I'd raise the salinity up to
1.003 at least; this won't stress your filter bacteria, but will help the
gobies. Do otherwise take care that water quality is appropriate. Don't feed the
fish for the time being, but after a couple of days, if they've settled down,
offer some live food and see if they behave normally. One last thing. Gobioides
spp. are territorial, and the one you aren't seeing much of is clearly the one
bullied by the dominant fish. Take care to put hiding places at each end of the
tank, so they can at least space themselves out. Cheers, Neale.>
Question about the Dragonfish,
or Violet Goby – 04/12/09
Hello all,
I have a Convict cichlid and a Dragon fish in a QT. I'm unsure of what
they have but my LFS the "Aquatic Specialist" told me it would be okay
to treat them for a variety of things because she wasn't exactly sure of
what they have either.
<Hmm... this "scatter gun" approach rarely works well. Would you trust a
doctor who didn't check your symptoms first, and instead gave you a
bottle of the first pills he found in his medicine cabinet?>
After 5 days of treatment my cichlid is looking way better yet, my
dragon doesn't. It's swimming erratically, laying upside down, running
into the sides of the tank, sticking his head out of the water, and
freaking me
out.
<Let's clear something up first. Is this Goby in brackish water?
Gobioides spp. "dragon" or "violet" gobies are all brackish water fish,
pure and simple. They cannot be kept in freshwater aquaria. Period. End
of
discussion. Under such conditions they will eventually get sick of any
one of a myriad potential problems.>
Honestly I feel bad for him, I know they don't do well with treatment
and am afraid he's dying. The fungus or whatever is getting better but
it's not acting like it's doing any better.
<He won't get better until transferred to brackish water at SG 1.005 or
more. Note that a brackish water tank IS NOT one where the user has
added a teaspoon (or whatever) aquarium salt per bucket of water; a
brackish water aquarium is one where marine salt mix has been used, for
this species at around 9 grammes per litre at 25 degrees C.>
I thought it was Ich, so I treated them for just that and after 2 days
there was no noticeable change. When I started treating for a variety of
things after 24 hours there was a difference. But the dragon had "spots"
all over it and in his mouth. Whatever this is/was got a hold of them
after a few hours time.
<Not good...>
What can I do?
<Did you read anything about Gobioides spp. before buying your specimen.
No book would have recommended this fish for a freshwater aquarium. You
have three options. Return the fish, move the fish to a brackish water
system, or euthanise it. Keeping it in a freshwater tank isn't an
option.>
Like I said the cichlid is looking way better and eating fine. The
dragon looks better but is acting a bit off.
<Read, learn:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i3/Dragon_Gobies/DragonGobiesart.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brackishsubwebindex/violetgobyfaqs.htm>
--
T. Sturdivant
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Question about the
Dragonfish, or Violet Goby – 04/12/09
Wow at the response time, amazing!
<Happy to help!>
I know it's a brackish water fish. I am *trying* to get rid of him for
his own safety. (As I do not have the space for him.) I didn't buy him.
I wouldn't have simply because of the space issue.
<I see...>
I read up about them after he was brought to me. (Lots of article on
here as well as several other sites.)
<OK.>
No place will take them sick. I tried. So I was hoping he could be saved
then given to a new home.
<Possibly; difficult to diagnose from the symptoms you gave, but
depending on his tankmates, you could raise the SG to 1.003. This
wouldn't be optimal for Convicts, but they should tolerate it for a few
weeks without problems.
Once healthy again, you could try and find a new home, e.g., via an
online fish forum.>
Also I took pictures of the fish and took it in to the LFS where they
couldn't decide if it was a fungus, Ich, or Velvet. :\
And apparently no medicine treats all three.br />
&<No, because they're caused by different things. Brackish water will
kill Ick and Velvet quickly, even at SG 1.003, and you'd then be free to
treat against Fungus and Finrot using an appropriate medication such as
eSHa 2000, Seachem NeoPlex or Seachem Sulfathiazole
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwfishmeds.htmbr />
>
Thanks again.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Question about the Dragonfish, or Violet Goby
– 04/12/09
Once again, thank you for the quick response.
<Most welcome.>
In my main tank I have American cichlids and African cichlids, which
will each get their own tank in a few months, a Pleco, and a peppercorn
Cory.
<Many Central American cichlids do well in slightly brackish water; do
review the literature on the species you have. If you visit my Brackish
FAQ
(the online precursor of my book) you'll find a section on cichlids,
naming the salt-tolerant species:
http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/Projects/brackishfaq.html
Do also read the section of Gobies, for background and specific
information on this species. Common Plecs usually tolerate slightly
salinity fairly well, but Peppered Corydoras probably will not.
Corydoras spp. shouldn't be with Central American cichlids anyway, given
the aggression of those cichlids.>
Thank you so much for the help. If at all possible I'd rather him live
than die.
<As would I. Cheers, Neale.>
Dragonfish question...
hlth... sys... fdg. 7/17/2008
Hey guys! I love your site, and I normally google stuff on your site when I
have a question, but my computer's not loading the search page, so I decided to
email. Sorry if the answer's on your site somewhere...I just can't find it.
<Oh?>
x.x
<No idea what this means.>
I used to have a Dragonfish (Violet Goby) about a year or two ago, and she was a
really amazing fish. But she developed some sort of tumor in her stomach and
died suddenly. I was pretty devastated.
<Unlikely a tumour, which is a pretty rare problem with wild-caught fish. Was
she maintained in brackish water? The common mistake people make with Gobioides
is to keep it in freshwater. Short term that's fine, but long term it places
such a stress on the internal chemistry of the fish it invariably succumbs. So
swelling of the abdomen was most likely organ failure of some sort. At least, if
the thing was in freshwater. Gobioides need to be kept in fairly brackish water
to do well, certainly not less than SG 1.005, and ideally around 1.010.>
I just got a new one a few days ago, and I had a feeding question...When I had
Shasta, I had to feed her a very specific way. She would come up gulping at the
surface at about 8:00 at night and I would wait until the exact second her mouth
was at the top, then I would drop bloodworms into her mouth. Needless to say, I
didn't go on vacation much...
<Making things far too complicated. Gobioides has three feeding modes. One is
plankton gulping, which is where the live brine shrimps and daphnia come in. The
second is sand sifting, which is shoveling mouthfuls of sand through the gill
rakers, where food is extracted. Frozen bloodworms are ideal for this. Finally
there is algae rasping, which is what their sharp little teeth are for. In the
wild they scrape algae from rocks and things, but in the aquarium standard algae
wafers work just fine. You need at least a mix of algae and invertebrates for a
healthy fish. A lack of algae could mean a lack of fibre, and constipation can
cause damage to the internal organs, and this can cause abdominal swelling... so
again, another common cause for a dead Gobioides. Do also note that these fish
don't do well in tanks with gravel. Must be sand so they can feed normally.>
xP
<What does this mean?>
I was just wondering if that was actually normal for dragonfish to eat like
that.
<Yes.>
I've only had one, so I don't know what to expect. I just got my little
(actually HUGE, since he's 10 inches long!) guy yesterday, so I don't know what
to expect from him. Do they all eat like that?
<They eat in three different ways.>
Because I heard that they were filter feeders...and Shasta NEVER sat around
gulping like Zumi (the new dragon) does...
<Depends what you're offering them.>
Thanks in advance for your reply! And I'm terribly sorry if this question's
already been answered...maybe there's something wrong with my computer, because
normally the google search page works fine...
Have a nice day!
Ashley
<Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/violetgobyfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i3/Dragon_Gobies/Dragon%20Gobies.htm
Much written about them here at WWM to get you started.
Hope this helps, Neale.>
Goby with Mouth fungus 10/6/05
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Good morning Crew - your site has been an incredible resource to me for
a loooong time. Thank you all so much!!
<You're very welcome!>
On to the terrible situation: I recently purchased a Violet Goby (Dragon
goby). He (or she) is roughly 6 inches long and appeared healthy in the
freshwater tank in which he was being kept for 3 weeks at the LFS. I
assumed that this fish was acclimated to freshwater from his stay at the
store and when I brought him home I put him in my cycled freshwater QT
tank.
<Still though, it needs to be kept in brackish water.>
Well, it's only been 3 days and his health has immediately dropped. His
physical symptoms are a bleeding, white-rimmed mouth, faded color, and
he is not eating. It's terrible to behold and I'm in absolute horror. I
immediately contacted the fish store to see if could possibly return him
to "safety" but they are closed for a week.
Here are my QT tank parameters:
capacity is 10 gallons
PH is right around 7.8
Alkalinity is stable
Zero nitrite and ammonia
Temp. ranges from 74-78
I have fluorescent light on 10 hours per day
water hardness is high
Nitrate is between 20 and 40 ppm (on the high side)
I treat the water with AquaSafe, a small amount of Stress Coat, and a
very small amount of aquarium salt.
Only tankmate is a small algae-eater (my QT janitor) The nitrates
couldn't be causing this fish detrimental distress,
right? The only thing I can think of is the gravel is larger grade stuff
and he could have injured himself sifting for food. It almost appears
that he has mouth fungus, but as I have never seen anything quite like
this, I am hesitant to treat. However, I do have "Maroxy" in my fishy
supply cabinet if this is the case. I have attached pictures of the
Goby's mouth. Please be warned that they are disturbing. What is your
advice at this point? I feel terrible and at fault - it breaks my heart
to see this fish in distress and pain, but my hands are tied until I
know what the cause is. I am changing a small amount of the water every
4 hours to lower nitrates.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/Meechity/goby2.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/Meechity/goby1.jpg
Thank you very much for your time, and I'm sorry to have bad news like
this to dampen your day :o(
<It looks to me, that the goby has damaged it's mouth foraging through
some extremely rough or dirty gravel. These fish are filter feeders
that scoop up sand into their mouth & filter out food particles. The
Maroxy should help but I'd also add Melafix & Pimafix. In addition, get
marine salt & a hydrometer & raise the specific gravity of it's tank to
1.005. It will take around 2 cups of salt (pre-dissolved) to reach this
salinity. The algae eater will not appreciate salt. I doubt the fish
will start to eat again until it's mouth is feeling better. Make sure
whatever foods you feed it reach the bottom of the tank, so the fish can
find it (they are practically blind). Generally, they do not eat
flakes. Mine loves blackworms, plankton, brine shrimp (as a treat only)
& algae wafers. Good luck, I hope he heals up quickly~ ~PP>
Sick dragon goby (Paisley)
I hope you can help me. We started our tank at the end of December. We have
had our goby ever since, he has done really well until yesterday when I noticed
he had a white "film" on his back. I have tried looking up diseases but can not
find anything. Needless to say, he was dead this morning and was even whiter.
Can you please help me figure out what it could have been. Thank you, Sherrie
<It sounds as if your fish might have Columnaris. This is a bacterial infection
that spreads across the skin of the fish. It can be extremely hard to get rid
of unless caught early. With use of a quarantine tank I treat with Maracyn and
it usually helps the fish return to health. It can spread to other fish, so
keep an eye on them. If any of it's tankmates should start to have this move
them to a separate tank and start treatments. Good luck. -Magnus>
Regrowing Fins, Violet Goby 9/25/06
Hello!
<Hi Cari, Pufferpunk here>
I have had my 2 F8 puffers and Violet Goby for nearly a year now. They have
survived the tribulations (with the help of this website) that I experienced as
a new-to-brackish owner. Until very recently, I've kept the trio in a 10 gal, pH
fairly stable at 8, 0 ammonia, Nitrate under 30, SG about 1.01 (via hydrometer).
<From what I can tell so far, that tank is seriously overstocked, as the puffers
require at least 10g ea (15g better) & the goby at least 30g.>
Violet Goby purchased at PetSmart (*groan*, sold as fresh water,
of course). Was originally about 5 inches, seemed very healthy, if not a
little skittish, for the first few months. I went through a small amount of
trouble getting him(?) to feed, eventually he settled on shrimp pellets &
finishing off whatever frozen food the puffers dropped. I have also bought a
variety of tubing in an effort to provide a place for him to hide.
Last December, after purchasing a rubber tube, I noticed a steep climb in pH.
Thinking the tube could be causing this, I removed it and the goby became very
desperate to hide, wedging himself between the filter tubes & the glass, racing
around in terror, digging up all the plants, making a general mess. Within a
short time, he refused to eat, Stranger--within two weeks he had lost all of
his fins completely! Only the tiny nubs of muscle where his pelvic fins should
have been remained!
<Ouch!>
Goby made a slow recovery once I purchased new, plastic tubes to serve as caves.
Eventually his anal, ventral and pelvic fins regrew (though his pelvic fins
seemed 'wrinkled' and slightly malformed, anal and ventral fins show no sign of
the incident, no deformities and no ragged edge), his tail is growing back in
ragged parts but his dorsal fin shows almost no sign of regrowth. He is eating
tremendous amounts, has almost doubled in size, is very active almost a year
later from this incident but has not regrown all of his fins. Because he now
measures over 8 inches, I switched the trio to a 29 gal just last week and all
seem very satisfied with the move.
<Aha! That's what I was waiting to hear! =o)>
I used most of the water and gravel from the 10 gal and water conditions
are stable.
<You say "gravel" & earlier, mention "pH fairly stable at 8". You can keep it
most stable, by using crushed coral or aragonite as a substrate, instead of
gravel.>
Is his diet affecting his fin growth? Does he need some sort of vitamin? He
will not touch algae wafers and there was plenty of algae growing in their old
tank.
<That's surprising. Mine loves algae wafers & I see him constantly nipping on
the algae growth in his tank. Blackworms are also one of his favorites. I soak
them in Zoe vitamins while in storage in the fridge.>
I've never observed the F8 puffers nipping at his fins and it seems highly
unlikely they could eat his entire anal and ventral fins in the first place. The
puffers are very lively, adorable and have never had any fin or health problems
at all.
Thank you for reading my letter!
<It may be too late, as the fins were lost quite a while ago but it wouldn't
hurt to add Melafix to their water. ~PP>
Cari
Violet Goby... sys., hlth. 1/2/08
Normal environment is a hexagon 55 gallon tank. Had a leak develop and
pulled up an emergency 10 gallon. All fish are fine and healthy. Came into the
kitchen this morning to prepare breakfast and felt something under my feet. It
was my violet goby on the floor! As near as I can tell he went out a small area
that allows access to the heater control. Anyway I snatched him up and got him
back in the tank. He had some floor dust on him - I touched him long enough to
clean that off. He appears fine minus the huge dorsal fin that runs down his
back - I cannot see the fin. No idea, no explanation but if it was somehow
damaged what are the chances of it growing back? I put some frozen brine into
the tank and he ate, everything appears normal but the fin concerns me. I do not
see any open "wounds" per say, just a line down his body where the dorsal should
be.
<Violet gobies are excellent jumpers; indeed most gobies are, and eel-shaped
fish even better, so an eel-shaped Goby is at real risk of leaping out of
uncovered tanks! In any case, within reason, fish will recover from the trauma
of landing on the floor. Fin membranes will grow back quickly, and spines
eventually, though sometimes not to their full extent. Skin grows back quite
quickly. The prime risk is Finrot/Fungus, to treat against these as a
precaution. Do also remember these are BRACKISH water fish, and are extremely
prone to disease when kept in freshwater. So don't keep at less than SG 1.005.>
The other tank has a sealed top and they will be moving back into it today.
This should eliminate the problem reoccurring.
<Very good.>
Thanks
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Violet Goby 1/9/08
It turns out he was ok from that - fin intact - he just had it laid
down.
Now, starting last night he swims to the top of the tank and pokes his
head out, sinks down and back up again. Pretty much lethargic. Water is
almost perfect, about 77 degrees and the rest of the fish are fine. He
is still breathing and other than swimming to the top of the tank and
drifting back down a few inches there is little or no movement. Ideas?
<You haven't mentioned water chemistry. These fish must be kept in
brackish water; when kept in freshwater, they do poorly, and usually
sicken and die. So please tell me what the salinity is in the aquarium.
I cannot stress this point strongly enough: you should be adding marine
salt mix (not tonic salt) to each bucket of water at not less than 9
grammes per litre (i.e., SG 1.005 upwards). In addition, Violet Gobies
(Gobioides spp.) must have suitable hiding places as well as soft sand
(not gravel) for digging in. Wild fish forage by shoveling mud and silt
through their gill rakers. In the aquarium, they will do the same thing
with silica sand, removing small food particles easily. But gravel stops
them doing this, and ultimately these fish are at serious risk of
starving. Violet Gobies are in part algae eaters, so once or twice per
week should be given algae wafers or pellets. They will feed on these
quite happily as they soften up on the substrate. Otherwise, stick with
wormy/plankton foods -- bloodworms, brine shrimps, daphnia, etc. It
should be very obvious that Violet Gobies are not "normal" fish that can
be dumped in a community tank. On the other hand, they mix wonderfully
with brackish water things such as Mollies that leave them alone.>
They are back in the big tank, as an FYI.
<Hope this helps, Neale.> |
Dragon Goby Health 9/26/07
<Hi Patty, Pufferpunk here>
I have a 3 year hold dragon goby. Over the last 2 months I have watched him eat
(hand fed him) and he continues to lose weight.
<What exactly are you feeding him?>
He looks dangerously thin now. Could he have some type of parasite?
<Possibly, They are generally wild-caught fish which can very well come to you
with internal parasites.>
He shares a 50 gallon tank with a mud skipper and another goby who seem to be
very healthy.
<It would help to know more information, like the specific gravity, ammonia,
nitrites, nitrates & pH. What is the other goby? It wouldn't hurt to treat him
for internal parasites. Try soaking his favorite food (mine loves live
blackworms) in an anti-parasitic drug like, Metronidazole (a freshwater fish
medication) or Levamisole Hydrochloride (a livestock dewormer.
See:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library/hospital/internal-parasites-prevention-and-treatment/
>
Thank you for your help, Patty
<I hope this helps. ~PP>
Dragon Goby... hlth.
1/28/08
Hello there,
<Hello,>
I bought a dragon goby, Gobioides broussonettii at the end of December, after
Christmas.
<Nice fish.>
It's been getting along nicely in my 29gallon tank but my problem, or rather his
problem, is that his fins were kinda jagged upon purchase, the biggest tear
healed right away but what's left isn't really healing. I've got a very fine
sand for substrate with some crushed coral in there underneath, and he lives
under the pile of rocks that I have on one side burrowing away most of the
daytime. None of the rocks are sharp, and his fins do seem to be healing to some
extent. They're clear in the damaged areas from the regeneration, but these
spots never seem to regain their colour.
<Likely Finrot or similar bacterial infection; use an antibacterial (e.g., eSHa
2000) or antibiotic (e.g., Maracyn).>
I was wondering if there's anything I could be doing about this, or if I should
just let him be, and it will heal over time?
<Bacterial infections sometimes heal by themselves but usually they do not, so
its best to treat all wounds with an anti-Finrot medication.>
If his diet is a factor, he's currently being fed algae tablets that I crush up
for him after I turn the lights off, I will be buying some brine shrimp
soon enough.
<These fish are quite easy to feed. Live brine shrimp are a great treat, but
have little nutritional value. Algae pellets and (wet) frozen bloodworms make a
good basic combo.>
Specific gravity is at 1.005
<This is at the low end, but should be adequate, and unlikely the problem.>
-Collin
<Cheers, Neale
Violet Goby HELP! – 1/28/08
I have read, what I am sure is all there is printed to read on the Violet
Goby.
<Perhaps, but seemingly not everything on Tetraodon fluviatilis or Tetraodon
nigroviridis; these pufferfish are widely reported as *not* good community fish,
and wild fish are known to eat fins/scales along with their normal diet of plant
material, algae and small invertebrates of various types.>
I foolishly put my young Violet Goby in my tank (55Gl) with my 3 GSP. there is
plenty of places to hide and have lived seemingly peaceful for the last two
weeks today however, in a course of 12 hours the goby's fins are almost gone.
<"Hiding" is not what Gobioides spp. want to do -- they are burrowers. If at all
possible, keep in a tank with a sandy substrate.>
I have moved the Goby to my quarantine tank, it has been cycled and have the
same water conditions as my community tank. levels are perfect ammonia nitrite
nitrate all 0 PH 8.0.( temp 75. Sal. 1.005 ) They are all fed their own proper
diets. my question is can my Goby regrow his fins and live a long healthy life.
<Yes, they will regrow, but you will need to make sure Finrot doesn't set in by
treating appropriately.>
or should I just make him comfortable as he slips away?
<Nope.>
any answers would be much appreciated. thank you
Jessica
<Cheers, Neale.>
|
Fish didn't make the
move,
Violet Gobies (Gobioides spp.)
1/26/08
Hello, I'm in a crisis.
<Oh?>
I've just moved and have been doing so in shifts. We brought the tank
and fish (violet goby, molly, Plecostomus, and 2 angels) the other
night, but as I got them here and setup the tank again, I noticed one of
my angels did not make it, and then discovered that I had forgotten the
box that has all products in it (salt, test strips, water
remedies...etc.). So, I made a made dash to the store to purchase these
things. I got the tank setup and the fish all seemed fine that night.
When I came back the next day, my Violet Goby was not doing well at all.
He had what looked like blood in his fins and his tail seems paralyzed
at the tip.
<Please understand this first: Violet Gobies (Gobioides spp.) are
BRACKISH WATER FISH and their lifespan in completely freshwater tanks is
poor. Since you also have a Plec and some Angels, I'm assuming this is a
freshwater tank.>
I had once again forgotten the box of supplies, but the neighbors have a
pool, so I asked for a testing strip to at least get a rough idea of
what was going on in the water. Everything seemed fine to me, but I
touched up the conditions a bit.
<The fish has a systemic bacterial infection, likely caused by Aeromonas
spp. similar to those that cause Finrot and bacterial septicaemia. These
bacteria block the blood vessels in the epidermis and fins, and this is
what causes the inflammation. After a while the surrounding tissues die.
The bacteria get in when fish are physically damaged or exposed to high
levels of ammonia for extended periods. So either rough handling when
you were transporting the fish, or else problems with filter in your new
aquarium, were the triggering issues. You'll need something like Maracyn
to deal with this. In brackish water Violet Gobies are basically hardy,
but in freshwater they are already severely stressed, and any little
thing can tip them over the edge. That's what happened here.>
Now today, the water is fine, but the blood in its tail is vibrant and
in a much bigger spot. I have not found ANY information on this. I need
help.
<Define "fine". Unless you're keeping this goby in brackish water at SG
1.005-1.015, then it most certainly is NOT fine.>
I'm not sure what to do for it. If it can pull through, I want to give
it the chance, but I don't want it to suffer.
<Comes down to this: If you put the fish in a brackish water aquarium
and treat with Maracyn, there's a good chance the fish will recover. At
the moment the tissues look inflamed rather than necrotic, so you still
have time. Your Mollies will do better in a brackish water tank than
otherwise, and up to about SG 1.003 the Plec would adapt as well (and SG
1.003 would certainly be better than nothing). But the Angels will NOT
tolerate brackish water. On the other hand, if you can't be bothered to
set up a brackish water aquarium and would sooner just kill off a fish
that you didn't research properly and is sick because you kept it in the
wrong conditions, then nothing I say will change your mind. But in a
plain vanilla freshwater aquarium this fish is, basically, doomed.>
It seems o be hanging in there, but I have to check on it, because it
will look like it died, but then when I scoop it with the net, it starts
flailing about again.
<I bet. It's in agony!>
I've attached a picture.
<Yuk.>
I would really appreciate any help you can offer.
~Stephanie
<Done my best! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Fish didn't make
the move 1/26/08
Thanks for your quick response, first off.
<Not a problem.>
I use aquarium salt... I guess not the same?
<Nope. Marine salt mix is [a] not overpriced cooking salt, but more
importantly [b] raises the carbonate hardness as well as the salinity.
These two things are required for brackish water.>
It was doing just fine before the move and I've had others before this
one and kept them in the same conditions.
<And how long did they last? Unless they all lived for an average of 10
years and reached their adult size of 40-50 cm, then they didn't do
"fine". Most brackish water fish will muddle through in freshwater for a
greater or shorter period of time, just like people can live for a while
on nothing but McDonalds. But ultimately both scenarios will end the
same way: badly. And it's not just me saying these are brackish water
fish (though I flatter myself I know a little about the topic). Feel
free to visit Fishbase to confirm.
http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=3856
Note the "Prefer muddy bays and estuaries" statement. In fairness, you
don't need a lot of salt to keep them happy, and even 10% seawater
salinity (SG 1.003) should help enormously.>
What do I need to do to make it brackish?
<Ask and ye shall receive:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/bracsystems.htm
There are various useful linked topics from there as well.>
and where can I find Maracyn?
<In the US of A, most anyway aquarium store. In other states, you may
need to ask your vet for Erythromycin.>
~Steph~
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Fish didn't make
the move 1/26/08
Ok, sorry. I found a store but do I need the Maracyn or Maracyn 2?
~Steph~
<I'd start with Maracyn first. Erythromycin is a pretty general purpose
medication and should handle the bacteria causing the problem here. If
it doesn't, you can always switch to Maracyn Two down the line. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Fish didn't make the
move... Dragon Gobies 1/27/08
Thank you so much for your help! I didn't even wait for your reply. I did
some more researching and ran to the store.
<Cool.>
I'm pretty frustrated with pet stores in general right now though.
<Can happen. While many stores offer excellent advice, some do not, and if
you're unlucky enough to buy an exotic type of fish and receive poor advice at
the point of sale, things can get real messy, real fast.>
I went to a PetSmart and got the items I needed and out of curiousity asked if
they had Dragon Gobies. The girl pointed out the tank with 2 of them in it. I
asked if it was salt water to which she replied, "No, it's freshwater".
<Not good. When you see this, it's heartbreaking to know that in all probability
that fish will die a miserable death within six months.>
Then I explained what I am going through and she said, "Well, it seems just fine
in there"
<Humph.>
This is a BIG problem. Wal-Mart sold me aquarium salt for my dragons.
<Oh dear. For what it's worth, it's better than nothing, especially if the water
is already hard and alkaline. But long term, you want marine salt mix. By my
reckoning, 6-9 grammes per litre is required to create SG 1.003-1.005
conditions. The Mollies will thrive, but the catfish less so and the Angelfish
definitely not, and should be removed as soon as possible.>
(Oh, and by the way, the other two dragons I had were killed by my husbands
puffers. They were literally eaten alive. It wasn't pretty.)
<I bet. On the whole puffers do not make good community fish.>
Do these companies know/care?
<Difficult to say. I imagine that few businesses actively want to mislead their
customers or abuse animals. But do all companies work equally hard to ensure
that customers receive accurate information on the fish they buy? That's a
trickier question, and in all honestly I think many stores can definitely do a
better job than they are doing now. But this does underline what Bob Fenner and
all of us here at WWM say to aquarists: read up on a fish before buying it.>
Obviously, they do not care enough to ensure that their employees are trained to
give advice on any matters fish related.
<Certainly seems this way sometimes. But some stores do make an effort, and it's
up to us to patronise those stores that do.>
Anyway, thank you again for your help. Hopefully, my little guy will pull
through this and I have definitely learned something today :)
<Fingers crossed!>
~Steph~
<Cheers, Neale.> |
|
 |
Sick Dragon Goby - please help! 3-11-08
Hi Guys!
I desperately need help with my new Dragon Goby.
<Ah, before we get started, do make sure you have this fish in a proper brackish
water aquarium; their lifespan in freshwater aquaria is poor.>
I was at Pet Smart the other day to buy some small fish for our freshwater tank
when I saw their new addition: Dragon Gobies!
<Uh oh.>
So I asked the sales associate (who on previous occasions had proven to be quite
knowledgeable when it came to freshwater setups) whether or not this little guy
would make a good addition to my tank. He assured me that the Goby should get
along famously with his new tank mates and
that the setup I had would be perfect.
<I see where this is going...>
So I bought one and took him home.
<Never a good idea BEFORE you've read up on a fish. This is absolutely crucial
when we're talking about oddball fish because so many of them have "issues" that
need to be accommodated. That's why they're oddballs and not common community
fish -- because they're DIFFERENT to regular community fish!>
Our tank is 110 Gallons, fresh/brackish water.
<No such hybrid; that's like being both pregnant and not pregnant at the same
time. You either have a freshwater tank or a brackish water tank. Yes, some
freshwater fish do well in brackish water (e.g., Guppies) but that doesn't mean
that you can set a tank up that is acceptable to both brackish and freshwater
fish at the same time.>
We have a cichlid substrate in the bottom, so the PH is a steady 8.0.
<You mean coral sand? Good; that's fine for this fish.>
The filter is well established and our ammonia is nonexistent, as is the Nitrite
level. We don't have a heater in the tank, but the temperature never falls below
70F.
<Nope, you need a heater. Doesn't work this way. Gobioides broussonnetii
shouldn't be kept below 72F/22C, and most other brackish water fish are from the
tropics, and will be stressed when the water temperature stays below 77F/25C for
any length of time.>
Everything is natural - slate backdrop, substrate floor, tree roots and live
plants... and recently plenty of algae.
<Algae is good: Gobioides broussonnetii is partly an algae-eater, and uses its
sharp teeth to scrape green algae from rocks.>
The inhabitants are: 6 African and South American Cichlids in varying sizes from
3-5 inches in size, a small group of Platys and a handful of mini crabs, all of
which get along great.
<Most of these cichlids are likely salt-intolerant, so long term this is going
to work. The Platies will do fine at SG 1.005, the minimum specific gravity for
Gobioides broussonnetii maintenance. Acclimate them slowly though, because they
aren't really brackish water fish, merely salt-tolerant by dint of their
evolutionary history. Cichlids are a mixed bag: some species occur in brackish
and even marine environments, but many get stressed by prolonged exposure to
brackish water. 'Malawi Bloat' is a fatal disease associated with the excessive
use of sodium chloride in tanks containing Mbuna and other Malawian fish.>
We feed the fish color bites, which they love (all other food winds up decaying
- they don't even touch it).
<Long term Gobioides broussonnetii needs a mixed diet with lots of algae; I
recommend Plec-type algae wafers. Frozen (not freeze-dried) worm foods such as
bloodworms are also important. Live brine shrimp are a favourite.
Colour-enhancing fish foods are NOT a staple food, especially for your African
cichlids that need green foods to do well. You're dicing with death here,
because once cichlids become constipated they become very vulnerable to
bacterial infections.>
When we put Leroy (yes, they all have names) into the tank, he seemed quite
happy and none of the other fish were bothering him.
<I say this too often, but fish couldn't care less about having a name. What
they want is the right environment and the right diet.>
He eats the small snails that hang out on the glass and the plants - I've never
seen him go after the regular fish food.
<Indeed not.>
However, within a couple of days, he started showing small gashes in his fins.
<Likely Finrot or Fungus, perhaps caused by attacks by the Cichlids; I have seen
Mbuna for example shred the fins on Polypterus, a fish of similar size and shape
to Gobioides broussonnetii. Moreover, if your Cichlids are not getting a
balanced diet (and they're not) they will be opportunistically trying out
anything.>
We thought that maybe one of the other fish had started picking on him...but to
this day, I've never seen any of the other fish acting aggressively towards him.
<I've never seen a house get broken into by thieves -- but I'm told it happens!>
The Cichlids fight amongst themselves, but seem to regard neither Leryo nor the
Platies as competition and completely ignore them.
<Not convinced...>
Leroy's fins have deteriorated badly - they look ragged and in some places have
all but disappeared. Yesterday, I saw that he had something that looked like an
open wound under his left side fin which is sticking out a bit too.
<Finrot and/or Fungus. In any case you MUST do two things, stat! First, raise
the salinity of the aquarium to at least SG 1.005. That is about 25% seawater, 9
grammes of marine salt mix per litre (about 1.2 ounces per US gallon). This will
obviously stress/kill the cichlids, so the cichlids or the Goby will have to go.
Your choice which. But doing neither will result in the death of one or other
type of fish. Secondly, you treat with a combo Finrot/Fungus medication such as
Maracyn or eSHa 2000.>
I've already tried running a full treatment of Melafix through the tank, but to
no avail (I couldn't get to the filters to take the carbon out - but since it
wasn't a necessity, I hope that didn't affect the outcome of the treatment too
much).
<Two things here: One, you MUST remove the carbon. This isn't negotiable. Carbon
removes medication. Simple as that. You can add as much medication as you want,
but if the carbon is in the filter, you'll achieve precisely nothing. Secondly,
Melafix doesn't work. It's cheap and "new age" and I suppose that's why people
buy it. But it doesn't work very well either.>
Two of our other fish have ragged fins, but not nearly as bad as Leroy's ( plus
they're the two that get picked on by the bigger fish, so a bit of wear is to be
expected I think).
<Definitely serious. Treat the tank at once.>
Leroy's still swimming around and active, but it's very painful seeing a great
fish like him deteriorating and not knowing what to do about it.
<I suspect you know exactly what to do, you've just chosen not to, for reasons
that passeth all understanding. This fish is dying because you bought it without
thinking whether you could house it properly.>
All his symptoms point to a bacterial infection, but since I couldn't find too
much about Dragon Gobies, I decided to do more research and found your site.
<Oh, there's plenty about these fish out there. Articles on this site, my book,
the Aqualog book, and most decent aquarium atlases have this fish too.>
Last night, we've started running a treatment of Tetracycline in the tank -
complete with filter change and removing of the carbon.
<Thank the gods!>
I'm stopping by the store on my way home to buy the remaining 3 courses for the
treatment.
From what I read in your other advise on Dragon Gobies, I'm not sure whether
that might be too harsh of a treatment.. but it's the best I could come up with.
<Certainly better than what you've been doing up until now, but let me make this
crystal clear: without BRACKISH WATER, this fish has little to no chance of
survival in the long term. And adding a "teaspoon of salt per gallon" or
whatever doesn't make water brackish; go measure out 1.2 ounces of MARINE SALT
MIX (e.g., Instant Ocean or whatever, not "aquarium salt") and you'll see how
much you need to add PER GALLON.>
Is there anything I can do to help him heal without compromising the other fish
in the tank?
<Nothing. Nix. Nada. Nyet. Non.>
Thank you in advance for your help!
Yours,
Nina
<Good luck, Neale.>
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