FAQs on Characoids/Tetras & Relatives
Infectious Disease
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Characoid Disease 2,
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Related Articles:
Characoids/Tetras &
Relatives,Related FAQs:
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Characoid Identification,
Characoid Behavior,
Characoid Compatibility,
Characoid Selection,
Characoid Systems,
Characoid Feeding,
Characoid Reproduction,
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Columbian tetra with fin rot from nipping
5/20/18
Hi Neale and Bob,
<Susan,>
You helped me save a zebra Danio who was badly injured from a bullying
situation. He has healed beautifully and your suggestions on rearranging the
tank and reintroducing the Danios solved the bullying problem.
<Well, that's a good outcome!>
One of my Columbian tetras appears to be the victim of fin nipping with
accompanying fin rot now setting in. There are two spots visible (see photo).
This school usually gets along great although they do chase one another on
occasion.
<This species is prone to that. Bigger groups usually help fix the problem. In
any event, medicate as per Finrot.>
I do weekly water changes of 20%. Water parameters are as follows: Zero for
ammonia and nitrite. Nitrates around 20 ppm, gH at 7-8°, temp around 76°F, pH
6.8. I run a canister filter with biomedia that includes matrix and chemical
filtration is Chemipure green. I also run a sponge filter rated for 20 gallons
which is connected to a battery backup air pump (we have frequent power outages
where I live).
<Oh!>
Other tank inhabitants are a school of orange laser Corydoras and MTS (substrate
is sand) and Nerite snails. Tank is a 20 gallon planted. I have upped my water
changes to 10% every 3 days since I discovered the fin rot. It does not appear
to be getting worse and the tetra is active and eating but I don't want it to
progress further. I can't use aquarium salt because of the Corys.
<Who told you that? Low salt doses, i.e., 2 g per litre, for treating Whitespot
for example, will do them less harm/cause less stress than traditional
medications using copper or formalin. To be clear, catfish aren't "allergic" to
salt. That's a myth. A lot of salt in the water will cause osmoregulatory
stress, but trivial salt doses are perfectly safe, even with soft water
specialists like Cardinals, let alone Corydoras.>
I do have SeaChem Paraguard on hand that I used to treat my Betta who had fin
rot when I purchased him. Do you think its advisable to treat the tetra in the
tank with Paraguard?
<I would.>
I can relocate the Nerites and the larger MTS who are active at night and
visible on the substrate. MTS are expensive here and only available online so I
would prefer not to kill them off.
<Understood. While Melanoides snails usually handle medications just fine, you
could dump a few in a loosely covered food container with a bit of water and
leave them out of the tank while medicating. They need little care and will go
dormant when cool. The Nerites perhaps a bit more a gamble, being more sensitive
generally.>
I can also transfer the tetra to a small hospital tank.
<Perhaps put the snails here?>
I had ordered Kanaplex with the intention of adding it to food with their binder
Focus, but I was sent the wrong product so it will be about 5 days until the
Kanaplex arrives. The Kanaplex was my backup plan if the water changes didn't
help. What is the safest course of action in your expert opinion?
<Any medication for Finrot should be fine here. This fish looks in robust
health, and really all you want to do is help knock back the bacteria a bit so
it's own immune system can kick in.>
Thanks for your help (again).
Susan
P.S.
I'm moving everyone to a 50 gallon planted tank that has just finished cycling
once it was settled in and aged a bit. Hopefully that will solve the territorial
problems.
<Understood. Cheers, Neale.>
|
|
Re: Columbian tetra with fin rot from nipping
5/20/18
Thanks Neale!
I am happy to learn that corys can tolerate salt if I ever have to use it in my
tank.
<To be clear, as a short-term treatment for Whitespot and Velvet at low doses (2
g/l, for a few days or a couple of weeks). Perfectly safe used that way. But I
would not be adding salt as a regular addition to any community tank containing
relatively soft water fish, whether Corydoras, tetras or anything else from the
Amazon Region.>
Another myth busted.
<It would seem so!>
I went ahead and removed my snails and I'm treating with Paraguard. I will
definitely follow your advice and increase my school of tetras once I've
relocated them to the 50 gallon.
<Cool.>
Thanks again for your help.
Susan
<Most welcome. Neale.>
|
Congo tetra swollen. 3/30/18
Hello crew. Hope you are doing alright.
Today one of my Congo tetras, the biggest and dominant male appeared with a big
swollen and open mouth. His head looks very red and swollen. He is still
responding to stimulus but very weakly. His condition is worsening by the hour,
so this is a very aggressive ailment. He was not like this yesterday. Other
notable symptoms are an under jaw with marked veins, a small blood blotch near
the pectoral fins.
This looks horrible and I've never seen anything like this. He does fight a lot
with a certain other male to the point of pursuing each other across the whole
150 gallon aquarium they are in.
I've had my group of Congos for two years now. When i first got them they came
with a type of mouth fungus, something that looked like they are white gums and
no teeth (its the closest i can to describe it). It never got bad and it went
away once happy in my tank. Now all of a sudden this. I checked the other Congos
and there is one with the same white gum thing that i saw two years ago, but it
is not hindering in normal feeding or behavior. I conducted a large water change
(50%).
I have quarantined the sick fish into a 5 gal bucket with 1/2 Methylene blue and
will be waiting on response. Its 8 pm and i don't think i can go get anything
difficult right now and i don't think he will make the night if i don't do
something right now.
I have malachite green, Metronidazole, and Levamisole in my med box. Any
opinions crew?
<This does look like the infamous 'Mouth Fungus' to me, which despite its name,
is a bacterial infection nowadays more often called Columnaris after the
bacterium species responsible, Flavobacterium columnare. It can be extremely
aggressive, and while it can be treatable, you need to work promptly. A strong,
reliable antibiotic is necessary -- Kanaplex of example is known to be
reasonably effective. Outside the US, access to antibiotics can be limited, but
I have found eSHa 2000 to be quite effective as well, especially if the problem
is caught early on (it's less effective once the fish is really weak). Neither
Methylene Blue, Malachite green, Metronidazole, or Levamisole are useful here.
Do bear in mind Columnaris is opportunistic and to some degree caused by things
like fighting and less than perfect water quality, so reviewing the tank is
important as well. Cheers, Neale.>
|
|
Tetras with white mouths (and a bit about rosy barbs)
3/19/15
Hi Crew,
I'd like to thank you once more for your previous advice, last time I wrote
about a suspected case of Ich which is now resolved. I've had no more fish
deaths since losing the last of the extra rosy barbs that I bought from the LFS,
sadly Pinkie succumbed to his saddle ulcer in the end. I had him quarantined for
the last week or so of his time, and whatever he had does not seem to have
affected the rest of my fish. I still see the occasional white or clear stringy
droppings from the rosy barbs but I am starting to suspect this is a result of
them accidentally ingesting sand then excreting it in mucus as there are plenty
of green and brown droppings too and they all seem healthy otherwise.
<Mmmm; what re water quality, foods/feeding, maintenance practices?>
Currently my 30gal tank has one head and tail light tetra, three adult
rosy barbs, and all 16 of the barb offspring (ranging from 1cm to 2.5cm).
I'm aware that this will be far too many rosy barbs when they grow up
so I'm hoping to find a home for them in the big aquarium at work which
currently only has a single small fancy (ugly) goldfish.
<Should be moved elsewhere>
I'm not sure that this will be a compatible mix though since even if 5+ barbs
are added to keep them well behaved and not nippy, I think they might dominate
at feeding time due to being more able-bodied and they might starve out the
goldfish. Thoughts?
<All should get along w/ the GF removed>
The other option I have in mind is to set up better filtering in the backyard
pond and to put some back out there. A lone
stray barb fry survived 2 weeks out there during the hottest part of summer, he
was too good at hiding and got left behind when I brought the others that had
hatched out there inside, so I think the pond does get enough shade to
keep the temperature down. Winters here are mild too.
<Good... barbs might live there; but not the Tetras likely in the winter>
With the threat of ich and Columnaris gone I have bought four more head and tail
light tetras to keep my singleton Mr. Beacon company.
<Good name>
I've been trialing different plants in the main tank and do intend to keep it
heavily planted (despite the best efforts of the barbs to eat/uproot everything,
I've been finding this constant battle part of the fun of keeping fish) so I am
hoping the HATL tetras will be happy in the environment. The LFS does not stock
these tetras so I bought them online and besides, I hoped to
avoid a known source of diseased fish. When they got here, two of them had white
coloured patches on their mouths, and one of them was very sickly, limp and
skinny looking.
<I see this in your excellent pix>
My initial thoughts were that they may have scuffed their mouths against the
plastic bag in transit, or gotten feisty with each other since they were all
together in the one small bag, and gotten injured while fighting. The bag wasn't
a breather bag and the skinny fish did perk up once out of the bag and in
quarantine, he hides a bit but his appetite seems okay and his belly is filling
out a bit more; he could have been underfed or oxygen starved maybe but I'm a
little suspicious that he could have fish TB or some other disease that could
cause skinniness. I've treated them with Praziquantel so far just in case they
were skinny due to worms.
<Mmm; possibly>
I'm using the tank that the baby fish used to be in, the tetras have been in
quarantine for a week now and I think that in two of them the white mark has
gotten smaller but noticed today that a third one has a white mouth too. I'm a
little worried it could be Columnaris not a wound, or a wound that got infected
with Columnaris.
<Maybe>
I've attached some pictures, and also a picture of one of the friends I got for
the false penguin tetra (they have their own tank now due to being too rough!)
who has a similar mark. I don't know if it is just that these tetras fight or
swim into things a lot; the quarantine tank that the four HATL tetras are in is
too small and I know they aren't happy with the amount of space they have. I'm
wary of treating with anything beyond a little bit of salt for now
<Good>
and I'm just hoping after another week or two in quarantine nothing will have
worsened and I can get them into the bigger tank. Anyway I just don't have the
experience to tell whether these white mouthed fish are injured or diseased or
both. Hope you can help.
<Not w/ the data (or lack of it) provided>
I did end up getting a RO/filter system which has a mixer tap and a TDS inline
meter allowing adjustment for both drinking water and aquarium water. I still
don't quite have my head around converting TDS ppm to general hardness degrees -
I did read somewhere that dividing ppm by 10 will loosely approximate French
degrees but then I don't know whether French or German degrees are more commonly
used.
<German... the D in these measures is for "Deutschen">
I haven't had any further shrimp deaths due to failed moults since I've started
using 50-70ppm water for my shrimp tank so it's definitely helping. I'm
wondering whether I should still be letting my RO-mix change water stand
before I use it;
<Yes I would... at least a day; better, a week>
I haven't been, because I thought that it was only necessary to allow time for
water treatment chemicals to do their work but is letting water stand useful for
other reasons?
<Mmm; yes.... settling, combination.... of metals, non-metals... outgassing of
undesirable gasses>
I have a 20lt plastic jerry can which I store the water in, this doesn't allow
much exposure to atmosphere so should this
water be agitated? Or just tipped into buckets?
<Tipped is fine, aeration/circulation better>
Ok sorry this got to be a lot longer than I originally intended! I really
appreciate the time you take with educating new hobbyists like me and reading
our rambling emails.
<We appreciate the opportunity to interchange w/ intelligent, sensitive folk
like you>
I've still got a lot of reading that I want to do regarding Corydoras as I have
decided I'd like a biotope tank rather
than putting them in the community and making them compete with greedy barbs,
and I think it would be easier to manage water softness and ph if I start again
and do things differently in a new tank.
Thanks once again and I hope you have a great day.
Bronwen
<Welcome. Bob Fenner> |
|
Re: Tetras with white mouths (and a bit about rosy barbs)
3/20/15 /Neale
With regards to the barbs occasional odd dropping, they are fed once daily or
twice if I don't have time to watch them in the morning. If I am in a hurry they
get a quick pinch of flake and then I take a bit more time in the evening feed
to watch how much they are eating.
<Fine. Barbs are omnivores that will eat algae, some plant matter between
"proper" meals.>
I have some frozen community blocks which contain both meaty and plant
materials, I usually give this two to three times a week (slicing off a small
amount and feeding little by little trying to avoid over feeding). I have some
Spirulina sinking pellets (also contains other ingredients) that I bought for
the shrimp but proved to be very popular with the barbs, they will carry the
pellets around spitting them out and sucking them up again, gradually working on
them until they soften up.
<Quite so, and an excellent staple for your fish... good nutrition, plenty of
exercise, economical. My Cherry Barbs are fed these alongside the Limia they
cohabit with.>
I crush some up for the younger fish but they seem to manage okay on full sized
pellets, worrying at them until they break into smaller bits. I have some
meatier pellets, with a higher protein content but they are not as popular so I
don't feed those very often.
<Indeed. These fish are omnivores, and plant material is a significant part of
the diet of most/all barbs in the wild.>
They get smushed up frozen peas, thawed and peeled, every few days which they
love. If I find a patch of snail eggs I will knock it off the glass and the
female adult barb in particular loves munching on those.
Occasionally I net some mosquito larva from either the pond or the snail tub and
these make a popular snack.
<Sure.>
I believe they have eaten some of the Ramshorn snails that were in their tank,
there are a growing number of empty shells visible on the bottom, and they
definitely rip at the Java moss, Hydrilla, Rotala, and Hydrocotyle plants
constantly. I'm pretty sure they ate 90% of the fissidens moss I added too, and
almost all of the hair grass is gone too now that I think
about it. I was worried at first that they were doing this because I wasn't
feeding them enough but they were still doing it when I tried feeding them twice
a day which I decided was too much. I think if they like eating fresh plants
then they should be allowed to eat fresh plants so I've been growing more
Hydrilla in a tank outside for them since that's the one they stripped
to bare stems first of all.
<Indeed. Try floating Indian Fern and Amazon Frogbit, two favourites with many
barbs.>
I don't often see the tetra eat, he hangs back while the barbs feed so I always
attempt to get a pinch of flake to his part of the tank. He doesn't like me
scrutinising him though and moves front on so that he's hard to see. He does get
interested in the frozen food and will test and spit out various particles of it
until he finds one that he likes, I'm hoping he gets a bit more confidence once
his fellow tetras join him, I've been feeding them a small amount of flake daily
and they get quite excited at
feeding time so I think in a group his instincts will kick in if he sees a lot
of feeding action going on around him.
<Tetras are frequently more carnivorous, especially the smaller ones Neons,
Penguins, various Hyphessobrycon species and so on. They often enjoy Daphnia and
the like. On the other hand, do bear in mind some tetras are much more retiring
than Barbs. Put another way, many South American tetras come from blackwater
streams with very little productivity. They've evolved to expend as little
energy as possible between meals. Barbs typically come from ponds and streams
with much more productivity and a lot more for them to eat. They've evolved to
be more "busy" and expend their energy in all sorts of foraging and social
behaviours. In other words, tetras wait for food to come to them, while barbs
seek it out and if necessary push competitors away. Funnily enough, those barbs
from blackwater streams (like Pentazona Barbs) are much more like Neons and
other tetras in personality.
In any event, if you understand the environment the barb or tetra species come
from, cohabiting different species from among them will work better.
Tiger Barbs are bolshy, so mixing with pushy characins like Black Widows makes
sense. Rosy Barbs are subtropical to boot, so you'd choose only low-end tropical
tetras for life with them, perhaps Buenos Aires Tetras.
Does this make sense?>
I haven't measured my water parameters for a while but for a long time I was
getting pH steady at 8 (despite driftwood and almond leafs) ammonia 0, nitrite 0
and nitrate 5-10. I do weekly water changes and fortnightly rinses of the gunk
from the filter. I try weekly to vacuum the gravel in the gravelly parts of the
tank and skim the surface of the sand in the sandy parts of the tank but I don't
know how effective a job I do. I always see gunk being sucked up the tube but
everything looks even messier than when I started once I've tipped the new water
in.
<Sounds good. Cheers, Neale.>
Tetras with white mouths (and a bit about rosy barbs)
/Neale 3/21/15
Hi Crew,
I'd like to thank you once more for your previous advice, last time I wrote
about a suspected case of Ich which is now resolved. I've had no more fish
deaths since losing the last of the extra rosy barbs that I bought from the LFS,
sadly Pinkie succumbed to his saddle ulcer in the end. I had him quarantined for
the last week or so of his time, and whatever he had does not seem to have
affected the rest of my fish. I still see the occasional white or clear stringy
droppings from the rosy barbs but I am starting to suspect this is a result of
them accidentally ingesting sand then excreting it in mucus as there are plenty
of green and brown droppings too and they all seem healthy otherwise.
<Smooth silica sand should be fine... but anything abrasive or sharp, like some
of the glass-byproduct sands (Tahitian Moon Sand for example) could be risky.>
Currently my 30gal tank has one head and tail light tetra, three adult rosy
barbs, and all 16 of the barb offspring (ranging from 1cm to 2.5cm). I'm aware
that this will be far too many rosy barbs when they grow up so I'm hoping to
find a home for them in the big aquarium at work which currently only has a
single small fancy (ugly) goldfish. I'm not sure that this will
be a compatible mix though since even if 5+ barbs are added to keep them well
behaved and not nippy, I think they might dominate at feeding time due to being
more able-bodied and they might starve out the goldfish. Thoughts?
<It can work, in big tanks with robust Comet-type Goldfish and decent sized
schools of Rosy Barbs. But fancy Goldfish are less able to keep out of trouble.
It really isn't predictable. Worth trying but keep a Plan B in case it doesn't
work out.>
The other option I have in mind is to set up better filtering in the backyard
pond and to put some back out there. A lone stray barb fry survived 2 weeks out
there during the hottest part of summer, he was too good at hiding and got left
behind when I brought the others that had hatched out there inside, so I think
the pond does get enough shade to keep the temperature down. Winters here are
mild too.
<Rosy Barbs are subtropical and could thrive down to about 15 C, but below that
would be risky.>
With the threat of ich and Columnaris gone I have bought four more head and tail
light tetras to keep my singleton Mr. Beacon company. I've been trialing
different plants in the main tank and do intend to keep it heavily planted
(despite the best efforts of the barbs to eat/uproot everything, I've been
finding this constant battle part of the fun of keeping fish) so I am hoping the
HATL tetras will be happy in the environment. The LFS does not stock these
tetras so I bought them online
and besides, I hoped to avoid a known source of diseased fish. When they got
here, two of them had white coloured patches on their mouths, and one of them
was very sickly, limp and skinny looking. My initial thoughts were that they may
have scuffed their mouths against the plastic bag in transit, or gotten feisty
with each other since they were all together in the one
small bag, and gotten injured while fighting. The bag wasn't a breather bag and
the skinny fish did perk up once out of the bag and in quarantine, he hides a
bit but his appetite seems okay and his belly is filling out a bit more; he
could have been underfed or oxygen starved maybe but I'm a little suspicious
that he could have fish TB or some other disease that could
cause skinniness. I've treated them with Praziquantel so far just in case they
were skinny due to worms.
<Fish TB is difficult to diagnose and impossible to treat. It's less contagious
and more like an epidemic that breaks out when fish get stressed (diet, poor
water quality, lack of oxygen, etc.). So I tend not to worry about Fish TB but
instead focus on optimising living conditions for the fish. Usually "mystery
deaths" either sort themselves out or else all the vulnerable fish die. Adding
medications randomly is a bit hit and miss, and while PraziPro isn't
particularly risky, do be careful about medicating
without diagnosis.>
I'm using the tank that the baby fish used to be in, the tetras have been in
quarantine for a week now and I think that in two of them the white mark has
gotten smaller but noticed today that a third one has a white mouth too. I'm a
little worried it could be Columnaris not a wound, or a wound that got infected
with Columnaris. I've attached some pictures, and also a picture of one of the
friends I got for the false penguin tetra (they have their own tank now due to
being too rough!) who has a similar mark. I don't know if it is just that these
tetras fight or swim into things a lot; the quarantine tank that the four HATL
tetras are in is too small and I know they aren't happy with the amount of space
they have. I'm wary of treating
with anything beyond a little bit of salt for now and I'm just hoping after
another week or two in quarantine nothing will have worsened and I can get them
into the bigger tank. Anyway I just don't have the experience to tell whether
these white mouthed fish are injured or diseased or both. Hope you can help.
<Well, the photos look more like fighting damage, perhaps a bit of Finrot or
Columnaris thrown in. Another option: swimming into solid objects (like the
glass) when alarmed. So for this one turn the lights on more carefully and see
what happens. So far as fighting goes, watch your fish, add more of each species
to dilute aggression (if an option) and medicate as per Finrot
and Columnaris.>
I did end up getting a RO/filter system which has a mixer tap and a TDS inline
meter allowing adjustment for both drinking water and aquarium water. I still
don't quite have my head around converting TDS ppm to general hardness degrees -
I did read somewhere that dividing ppm by 10 will loosely approximate French
degrees but then I don't know whether French or German degrees are more commonly
used. I haven't had any further shrimp deaths due to failed moults since I've
started using 50-70ppm water for my shrimp tank so it's definitely helping. I'm
wondering whether I should still be letting my RO-mix change water stand before
I use it; I haven't been, because I thought that it was only necessary to allow
time for water treatment chemicals to do their work but is letting water stand
useful for other reasons? I have a 20lt plastic jerry can which I store the
water in, this doesn't allow much exposure to atmosphere so should this water be
agitated? Or just tipped into buckets?
<Bob's a big fan of overnight "resting" of water, ideally with an airstone, but
not essential. I'm less fussed, and just avoid changing huge amounts of water.
Basically, if you just change 20-25% of the water at a time, and use a water
conditioner, you shouldn't need to worry too much about resting the tap water.
Freshwater fish are very much more adaptable than marine fish. Think about rain
falling into a pond.>
Ok sorry this got to be a lot longer than I originally intended! I really
appreciate the time you take with educating new hobbyists like me and reading
our rambling emails. I've still got a lot of reading that I want to do regarding
Corydoras as I have decided I'd like a biotope tank rather than putting them in
the community and making them compete with greedy
barbs, and I think it would be easier to manage water softness and ph if I start
again and do things differently in a new tank.
<Possibly. I'm a big fan of sticking with the water chemistry you have, and
choosing your fish accordingly. That said, a 50/50 mix of RO water and liquid
rock tap water should produce a happy medium that suits most community fish.>
Thanks once again and I hope you have a great day.
Bronwen
<Most welcome. Neale.>
Tetras with white mouths (and a bit about rosy barbs)
3/21/15
Hi again Crew!
Thank you for your replies Bob and Neale. My heart says that I should move the
head and tail light tetras into the main tank to give them space and stop them
from squabbling or bumping into things, but my head says to give them another
week of quarantine to see how their mouth lesions develop.
<Agreed.>
I slept on this idea and this morning while one HATL tetra is still without
mouth issues, two of the other three look worse and the white patches seem to be
protruding more than they were yesterday. Although, having said that, I did use
a brighter light so that I could see them better, maybe the lesions were like
that all along and I just didn't see - normally they have half the tank in shade
c/o a black plastic garbage bag and the other half lit by a strip of dim LEDs. I
don't really think the lesions look fluffy, more so a bit ragged like the edge
of some peeled skin in places, and warty in others. However this fluff free
finding doesn't relax me at all, as Pinky's back ulcer was never fluffy either
and that evolved from a small lesion to a large fatal ulcer over the
Christmas/New Year break (I didn't have anything available except topical
treatments until it was too late). I
don't really want to give infection a chance to set in again, but I am mindful
also that these are different fish, from a different supplier, in a different
tank, with different looking lesions that are in a different location on the
fish, so I shouldn't expect a similar outcome to last time!
I want to wait a bit longer and observe them tomorrow with the same bright light
so that I can get a real idea if there is any progression. I do have
tetracycline (Bio-tet) or Metronidazole (generic looking yellow tablets)
available now for if the lesions worsen, although I'm not sure if I want to
treat all the fish, or only the ones that are showing visible lesions.
<I do think these mouth lesions are either plain vanilla dead tissue from
fighting or crashes into solid objects, or else incipient Columnaris.
Either way, treat with a suitable antibiotic, while also review conditions in
the tank.>
An observation on a different front, I would be hard pressed right now to pick
out which of these fish was the skinny sickly one from a week ago. All of them
have good colour and healthy looking bellies now. I am really looking forward to
seeing them school together in the big tank once they are done in quarantine! I
have discovered that my dad's compost heap has
Whiteworms in it as well as the big pink compost worms so I want to set up a new
clean worm culture for some tasty occasional snacks for the fish, which I hope
the tetras will like.
<Sounds a great idea.>
Speaking of which, the other fish haven't been eating my Ramshorn snails at all!
I found three snails fatally jammed in the filter inlet grille today.
I am guessing as the grille becomes more clogged with plant matter it becomes a
tempting place to graze for the snails but the increased suction as they clear a
blockage pulls them in to the inlet pipe and traps them there, where they die
since their shells can't follow. I have seen snails "hanging around" the inlet
pipe before but didn't realise this was happening. The filter pipe has probably
been slurping snails out of their shells all along as the barbs seem content to
bite their eyestalks off then
go back to ripping at the plants. I've adjusted the sponge that I put over the
grille so that only the most suicidal snails will be able to force their way in
there, and I will just have to remember to rinse the debris out more often.
<Hmm... some folks would endorse a filter with snail-killing properties...>
I've decided that it will probably be more humane to leave the fancy goldfish in
peace in the aquarium at work and to get a nice pond filter going to allow
rehoming the excess rosy barbs outside, I probably wouldn't be able to provide
adequate supervision to stop any possible mayhem that could occur with the work
goldfish. It does get a smidge under 15 deg C here over winter, but the pond
should get winter sun.
<Definitely worth trying, I reckon.>
If I can't work something out using either a solar pond cover or something
similar to harness solar warmth, I can always bring everyone back inside in a
temporary plastic crate for the coldest months.
<Both approaches make sense. Cutting down wind chill in winter with, say, a
bamboo cover of some sort might work nicely. On the other hand, bringing in some
or all of the Rosy Barbs before the coldest months start can work great, too.
Have known many aquarists do this, even in places like Ohio where the summers
are nice and hot but the winters rather severe. They had fish that bred
prolifically during the summer, but snuggled up indoors for the winter. It's an
ideal approach if you're careful, and I found Corydoras for example easily bred
this way.>
Thanks again for helping me sort through these problems!
Cheers,
Bronwen
<Cheers, Neale.> |
Minor Serpae Tetra fin rot? 11/2/14
Greetings. I have a 55-gallon aquarium that we set up 2 years ago & has
been stable and disease-free. Water parameters are: ammonia = 0, nitrite
= 0, nitrate = 30, phosphorous = 0. I do a water change every week. We
have live plants (water sprite wisteria). The inhabitants are 2
Bristlenose Plecos, 8 black-skirt tetras, 8 white-skirt tetras, 11 minor
Serpae tetras, and about 6 apple snails. The Serpae tetras were
introduced about 2 weeks ago and my quarantine tank currently is housing
some baby Gold Gouramis, so
I chose not to quarantine them. I know I should have, but I have never
had any problem with the tetras from this source. A bad decision on my
part, but anyway, may I explain the problem to you...?
<Fire away.>
Oddly enough, the other fish in the tank seem to be still healthy and
unaffected by this disease bothering the serape tetras. It is the
strangest thing I have ever seen. The first sign is a very pale area
where the dorsal
fin meets their body. It's very clearly delineated and easy to see
against their red-orange background. Soon after that, the dorsal fin
degenerates and the fish seems to die within a day or two after they
reach that stage.
They don't seem swollen and neither do they show any other signs of
illness. I have never seen fin rot behave like this or fin rot that just
affects one species of tetra. Today, I got some API Triple Sulfa and am
planning on giving them the entire course of treatment as directed by
the manufacturer. Do you think that I am on the right track here? Please
advise and thank you so much for your time and any comments you may have
for me.
<Serpae Tetras are notorious fin-nippers, so one explanation is that
they're fighting within the group (which they do, especially when
feeding) and damaging one another. When feeding they have a feeding
frenzy
behaviour, but will also bully weaker specimens, even killing them.
Usually they attack other fish too, but the Black/White Skirt Tetras
(both Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) are pretty pushy, fast-moving little fish
themselves, and may be holding their own just fine. Gouramis, though,
are easy targets so I wouldn't mix them. This said, it is rare for
Finrot to kill fish within a couple days. Adding more Serpae tetras
might help, by
spreading out any aggression, but before doing that you'd want to
observe the Serpae Tetras and see if they're chasing or nipping each
other. If they are fighting, adding a few more could be a good move.
Alternatively, you might simply have a "bad batch" of Serpae Tetras, in
which case medicating for Finrot might stabilise things, giving you time
to see if they can be saved. If the fish get better, then no harm done.
If they eventually all die, I'd recommend not buying Serpae Tetras
again. Although cheap and usually extremely hardy, they aren't well
behaved fish, and there are better alternatives such as Red Phantom
Tetras out there.>
Riobhcah
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Minor Serpae Tetra fin rot? 11/15/14
Greetings. Well, I treated the entire aquarium with API Triple Sulfa for
four days and then observed the aquarium for several days and the
mysterious problem of the bacterial infection with the Serpae Tetras
seems to have been eradicated. All the fish look very healthy.
<Good.>
I have been watching them closely for fin nipping and have only seen a
limited amount of chasing amongst the Serpaes and a few isolated
incidents of them bothering the black & white skirt tetras who, as you
previously
stated, can give it back to them even better than the Serpaes can dish
it out.
<Often the case. Both species are "fin nippers" but Serpae Tetras tend
to be more persistent and vicious, whereas Black Widows generally behave
themselves if there's enough of them.>
I haven't seen them bothering the gold gouramis, who can be rather
pugnacious also if they choose to do so.
<Males, yes; females less so, if at all. Also, as they age, they slow
down a lot, making them easier targets, so do keep an eye out for them.>
I will watch the gouramis closely and move them to another aquarium if
necessary. I will keep watching the Serpaes for aggression. I have not
found anyone yet who has any idea exactly what this strange infection
was,
but the guy at PetSmart said that the others that came in in that
particular group had to be treated with antibiotics as well. Anyway,
just to let you know what the outcome was with this incident. Thanks for
the heads-up on Serpae aggression. I did notice that they are on nippy
fish.net where they seem to be known as the culprit in many a
fin-nipping incident.
<Indeed. Excellent fish in terms of colour, size, and usually hardiness.
They were extremely common fish in the aquarium hobby during its earlier
phase. But nowadays are not as popular. Unfortunately some retailers
give them alternate names, making it easy to buy them by mistake. Red
Minor Tetra, Jewel Tetra, Hyphessobrycon eques, Hyphessobrycon calistus
and Hyphessobrycon serpae are some of the names you'll see.>
Thanks again for your advice.
Rivqah
<Welcome. Neale.>
Treatment options for fungus in Jellybean Tetra (wild
caught) 7/22/12
Hello again, crew!
<Chesh>
You may remember me writing in a short time ago seeing advice on how to
care for wild-caught Jellybean Tetra (Ladigesia roloffi).
I've had them (they're lovely) since Friday the 13th (O.o), and thus far
things have been going well - I thought - unfortunately, this morning I
noticed a cottony growth by the gill of one of them. I didn't want to
stress them further, but felt it was important to show you what I see,
so I'm attaching 3 images of the same fish, in the hopes that it will
help you help me!
(link to photo:
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/HuginnMuninnandMe/SickJellyBean.jpg
)
This is the only obviously affected tetra at this time, though one of
the others *may* have it on his top fin (which appears to have been
damaged or nipped)
<Yes>
These two are among the smallest in a shoal of 20 - only about 1/2 inch
long, if that.
Here is more info on the tank:
This is a 20g long QT tank that I set up just for them. There are more
floaters now than there was when this image was taken (the day before
they arrived). Most of the plants are real, except for the 'bamboo'
floating - I didn't have enough floaters to provide adequate coverage,
so I added some plastic ones in the hopes of easing any stress on the
fish. Everything in this tank except the wood and plastic was taken from
my original QT/plant grow-out tank, which was only a 10g. I didn't want
to risk any fluctuation in the parameters, so moved everything over,
including the substrate, plants, and filter. Also put in a 20g filter
that has been on another tank for quite some time to ensure as stable of
an environment for them, considering the new set up.
Ph 7.4 (a little bit high for Jellybeans)
<Yes; I'd keep under 7.0; do you have some water of lower pH to blend
in? Peat or its extract to add?>
KH 2gtts
GH 6gtts
Nh4 - 0
No2 - 0
No3 - 5
Po43 - 0
Temp: 78-79 (also on the high side)
I've been trying to keep the temp low - I've read that 77 is their
optimum temperature, with 79 being the max. I can't keep the tank under
78-79ish - it's just where my room temperature gets the water. I've been
testing the water daily, and have seen no fluctuation in parameters
since adding these fish. They are under a 10g hood lamp, which I've
slowly been increasing in duration to reach 8 hours, with the intent of
slowly switching to the standard size hood lamp for this tank.
<Leave this off by day, on at night... to discount it as a heat source>
The idea is to slowly get them used to conditions in my 29g community,
which is where I hope they'll go eventually.
I've been doing a small water change and siphon the sand every 2-3 days.
I'm afraid to let them go a week because of the waste created by feeding
them, as they won't touch food if it lands on the substrate,
<Floating small pellets, and/or flake... a few times daily>
and it's been a learning period for all of us. I've been feeding them
lightly every day (I think - it's hard to tell because they're so small
and so MANY of them - I'm new at this!), and have been skipping every
3rd day.
At first, they stayed on the opposite side of the tank as I siphoned
(very gently and slowly, so as not to disturb them), but now they seem
to have gotten used to it, and confuse it with the syringe that I feed
them with and TRY to get to the siphon - so I kind of don't think I'm
stressing them out with water changes, though I could be wrong.
<Better this than pollution>
I've actually never dealt with any type of fungus (if that's even what
this is) in my tank(s) before, and am especially leery as they're very
small and wild-caught. I sincerely appreciate any information and
insight you can offer me in order to get my tank healthy again, and my
little Jellybeans safely through this!
Let me know if there is any other information that might help. . . thank
you very much!
Sincerely,
Jes
<Your water quality reads as otherwise excellent. I would not treat the
system for this one fish, nor remove it to treat elsewhere. I too think
this may be an opportunistic infection (bacterial but possibly fungal)
w/ the one fish being physically traumatized; and will heal of its own
accord w/ just good care, time going by. Bob Fenner>
|
|
Congo Tetra with red spot on his head.
4/17/09
Howdy, y'all rock!
<Modest forbids...>
I have a problem, well I have a bunch of them but that is a
different story :)
<Oh.>
My Congo Tetra has a red spot on his head, right at the top of
the gill.
Pictures are worth a thousand words so check out the attached
pictures. You can find the full size images at.
http://william1034.smugmug.com/gallery/7924389_EZwgy/1/514088658_phZj7
You really need to look at the full size images, the images I
attached don't have all the detail you need. I figured you
didn't want me sending multi-megabyte pictures.
<Correct.>
Oh boy, this history on this fish is too long. He has survived
cotton mouth and various other ailments in his 4 year life. Some
of our other fish were not so lucky with the cotton mouth. We
found some red spots on our Congo Tetras shortly after the cotton
mouth cleared up. It killed our other Congo Tetra. It spent over
2 weeks in a 10g quarantine tank before it got better.
We tried Maracyn, parasite killer and some food laced with
antibiotics (I can't remember the names of the treatments).
That was about 3 months ago.
Since then the tank has been stable and no problems.
<OK.>
Yesterday we found the spot. Any ideas?
<Very difficult to say; most likely physical damage and/or
secondary infection. An antibacterial treatment should help, but
double check water quality and relationships with other fish.
Congo Tetras are quite nervous animals, and apart from being
nipped, they can jump into the glass or hood when alarmed.
Anyway, assuming the water quality is good (0 ammonia/nitrite)
and water chemistry within the range for the species (pH 6-7.5,
5-15 degrees dH) I'd treat as you would Finrot, and hope for
the best.>
I am hesitant to move him to the quarantine tank, he just darts
around and beats himself up on the glass and we don't want to
get a bigger QT tank right now.
<Don't quarantine a single Tetra; as you say, he's not
going to like it.>
He is exhibiting no odd behaviors, his eating and activity are
normal. The other fish don't have any signs of damage. We
have just used some Melafix in the tank, our Yellow Spiny Eel dug
himself into a hole and lost some skin, used the Melafix as
preventative measure.
<Melafix pretty unreliable.>
The eel was 100% better after only a few days.
<Unfortunately these small Spiny Eels (Macrognathus spp.) do
get damaged by gravel, and in my opinion, should only be kept in
tanks with a soft, sand substrate.>
What the heck do we have, and don't tell me a tank full of
fish:) And what do we do about it.
<Some type of antibiotic or antibacterial; Maracyn is as good
as any place to start, but anything that combats Finrot should
work.>
Details:
Levels are good. Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, Ammonia 0, Phosphate
trace.
CO2 is controlled at 7
Temp is a 79 degrees
Lots of plants
Lots of fish.
2 Eheim 2213 filters
1 UV Sterilizer.
Lots of lights.
2 cubes of blood worms every night. There are no leftovers.
Thanks for any, and all help.
William
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
|
|
Black Skirt Tetra Infection? Help! 2/29/08 Hi, I
have a 75 gallon well-established planted aquarium. The water
parameters are good and all the fish have been healthy for about 5
years now. Today I noticed that a black-skirt tetra is ill. It is
swimming abnormally - it's tail keeps falling and it makes brief
jolts forward to right himself. It looks stressed and on closer
inspection, it's torso area behind the operculum is red and
swollen. I will try to catch him and put him in a quarantine tank
tomorrow (not so easy in a planted aquarium) but what is wrong with
him? An infection? What is the best way to treat him? Are the other
fish in danger? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Kim
<Hello Kim. Difficult to say precisely what's happening here,
but it is certainly possible it has a bacterial infection of some sort.
I'd try something like Maracyn and see how things go. Do remember
to remove carbon from the filter, if you're using it. There are
some parasitic infections that cause the gills to inflame, most notably
Velvet, so do check for that (typically an off-white powder on the
body). But parasites don't normally get into tanks unless
you've added new fish. A photo might help pin things down. Cheers,
Neale.>
Sick Glowlight Tetra? 7/9/07 Hello. <Hi there> One
of my Glowlight tetras seems to have a swimming problem. He's
been swimming in place at a 45 degree angle with the tail fin
pointing downward. He'll still swim up to the surface when
it's feeding time, but usually he stays about 6" from
the water surface in one spot. He has just recently developed
this problem and I have not been able to find any definite
answers on the wet web media site. Could it be a swim bladder
problem or some sort of disease? If it is a disease, could the
other fish in my tank "catch" it? <Is very likely an
internal bacterial complaint... the thinness, bent-spine..., and
yes, can be very "catching"... I do hope I won't
appear too brusque, cruel, but I would sacrifice this animal...
Place it in a small amount of water in a plastic bag and freeze
it...> Tank info: 55 gal freshwater community tank 10 Platies
6 bleeding heart tetras 3 Glowlight tetras 1 x-ray tetra 3 Cory
cats 2 zebra Danios Temp: 74 F pH: 7.8 NO2-: 0 ppm NO3-: 5 ppm
NH3/NH4+: 0 ppm I do about a 15% water change every 7 - 10 days
and treat with AmQuel+. Attached is a picture showing the fish in
question. Note his relative vertical position with the horizontal
platy also in the pic. Thanks, Aaron <Should this fish die,
dissolve... this problem could spread. There are "key
diagnostic tools and indications" that point elsewhere, but
precious little time here, and no economic means of doing much
else. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick Glowlight Tetra? 7/9/07 Thank you for the
quick response. I'll be sure to euthanize the fish as
humanely as possible. <This is what I would do> On another
note, is this condition a result of something I'm doing wrong
with either water conditions or feeding? <Mmm, no... not only
are these situations idiopathic, the fact that the other fishes
you list are symptom free indicates that there is not some
common-impinging factor here> I feed the fish tetra flakes
every morning, sometimes substituting with freeze-dried blood
worms. Is there a way to prevent such problems? -Aaron <Mmm,
no my friend... None that I'm aware of. Picking out
apparently "good" livestock, providing adequate
environment and nutrition, reducing the chances of introduction
of pathogens, insults... is about all one can do. Bob
Fenner>
|
|
Mouth disease on tetras
6/4/07 > Hi Guys, <Hello.> > I have a 80lt f/w tank
with a few tetras, a bristle nose sucker fish, two clown loaches, some
dwarf Gourami's and a couple of mollies. <All sounds fine except
the mollies probably want brackish water, not freshwater, and the clown
loaches grow very big (admittedly slowly) and even a tank twice the
size of yours will be too small for them in the long run.> >
Recently the tank started smelling like dirt and one of the tetras died
with a white growth that looked like it had grown over its mouth.
<The white growth was almost certainly "mouth fungus",
which is a bacterial infection almost always brought on by poor water
quality.> > We cleaned out the canister filter as it had started
to become noisy due to a build up of gunk. <OK. But cleaning a
filter should not mean wiping out the bacteria in the filter media --
so only ever clean the media in buckets of aquarium water.> > A
week later another tetra was found with this growth. <So, the
problem wasn't fixed.> > I removed the fish, did a 40% water
change and started using a Aquarium Pharmaceuticals 'Melafix'
of 10ml per day with a 30% water change every 7 days as directed.
<Melafix will have no effect at all on mouth fungus. Melafix is the
aquarium equivalent of antiseptic cream -- it helps keep cuts and
wounds from being infected, but don't expect too much from it. Your
need anti-mouth fungus (a.k.a. anti-Columnaris) medication.> >
This was about 2 weeks ago. <Mollies are nitrate intolerant when
kept in freshwater aquaria. If I had a penny for every molly that died
from being kept in a freshwater rather than brackish water tank I'd
be richer than Bill Gates. Needless to say, none of your other fish are
salt-tolerant. Yet again, an example of choosing fish before
researching them.> > Since then two mollies have died, with no
signs of disease and last week I noticed one of the Gourami's
turned from a red color to black. We did a water change and soon after
this it returned to its normal red color. <Fish sometimes change
colour when stressed, including by deteriorating conditions. It sounds
as if you have water quality/chemistry issues.> > Ph is about 7,
at the start of the issues it was around 6. <Mollies need a pH of AT
LEAST 7.5. All your other fish want a pH around 6.5 to 7.0. Any time
the pH of an aquarium drops from 7 to 6 quickly, it means you have
major problems with the aquarium. We need more data here: what is the
hardness? What is the pH/hardness of the water straight from the tap
(faucet)? What are the nitrite or ammonia levels?> > Do you have
any ideas?? <Sounds to me as if your tank is inherently unstable.
Likely a combination of acidification through decaying organic matter
in the tank (overfeeding, under cleaning) and not enough buffering
capacity in the water. Various solutions depending on the specific
problems. But we need more data to pin down precisely the causes. In
the meantime, reflect on the stocking density, your maintenance regime,
what (if any) buffering exists in the aquarium.> > Cheers and
hello from Oz, <Cheers, Neale>
Re: Mouth disease on tetras
6/4/07 > Thanks for the quick reply Neale. <No problems.>
> I did have my students feeding the fish, and I did suspect they
were over feeding. They backed off the feeding about a week ago.
I've ordered an anti-mouth fungus too. I vacuum the gravel every 2
- 3 months should I increase this to monthly? I also do a water change
of about 30% monthly. <Cleaning the gravel is a function of how
dirty it gets. In a regular community tank with small fishes, what
you're doing is fine. In the tank with messy fishes and a lot of
detritus in the gravel, step the cleaning up. When you siphon the water
out during water changes, it's always a good idea to
"Hoover" the gravel as well, and suck up faeces, decaying
plant material, uneaten food, etc.> > Can you please explain
buffering capacity? <Very simply, buffering is the ability water has
to resist chemical change thanks to the water containing certain
dissolved chemicals. Not all chemicals are buffers though. Table salt
NaCl (sold to aquarists as "tonic salt") has no buffering
capacity at all. It is essentially things like calcium carbonate (lime)
that buffers water to an alkaline pH, or organic acids (commonly from
peat) that buffer water to an acidic pH. Typically, aquarists buffer to
a slightly alkaline pH because this works well for the widest variety
of fishes while remaining chemically quite stable. Acidic pH systems
tend to be unstable, becoming increasingly acidic over time unless
carefully monitored. Anyway, provided you have a "medium
hardness" on whatever hardness scale your test kits measure (say,
10-15 degrees General Hardness) you don't need to worry about
buffering. It'll all happen in the background, and regular water
changes will top up the buffering capacity of the aquarium without any
further work from you. If the hardness is lower than this, i.e., you
have soft water, then you may need to do some work. There are multiple
solutions. You could keep brackish or hard water fish, for example. By
adding marine salt to a brackish water system, or Malawi/Tanganyikan
salts to a livebearer or African cichlid system, the buffering would
again happen in the background all by itself. If you have soft water
and want to stick with the soft water fish, such as Neons, barbs,
Corydoras, etc., you need to monitor the pH on a weekly basis until you
get a feel for the trend in pH changes that happen in your tank. Large
water changes weekly should prevent drastic pH swings. There are pH 6.5
buffering solutions available. You simply add them to the water with
each water change. Alternatively, you could do what I do with my soft
water tanks, and that is mix 1 to 3 parts soft water to 1 part hard
water. Most good freshwater aquarium books should go into the water
chemistry issues in depth.> > Cheers and thank you for your
advice. > Mike <Hope this helps. Neale>
Seemingly Incurable Mouth Fungus
3/11/07 Hello, <Hi there Theresa> I
was hoping to find some advice to treat an apparent case of mouth
fungus on one of my neon tetras. My tank is 30 gals with a
7" Pleco, 2 Serpae tetras, 2 emerald eye tetras, 3 high fin black
tetras and 5 Neons. <Mmm, with such a nice mix, I do hope your water
quality sides on the warmer, more soft and acidic side> About three
weeks ago, one of my Neons developed what I think is mouth fungus on
one side of his mouth. <Mmm, actually funguses are rare... more
likely bacterial in nature, and resultant (if only one specimen
afflicted) from a physical trauma...> I treated it with MelaFix
<Worthless> as per the instructions removed carbon and daily
treatment for 7 days (I can tell from your site MelaFix is not one of
your favourites!) <For me, you are correct> No
results, so I treated once again after a 7 gal water
change. I still had no improvement in this fish but no other
fish seemed to get sick. I know (also from your site) that I
should have a quarantine tank but unfortunately space does not allow
for me to have 2 tanks! I spoke with my LFS and they
recommended the Maracyn. <I do as well.... Erythromycin otherwise
known as> I have treated twice with this medicine over the period of
about 2 weeks and still no improvement. I have now noticed
that one other neon has a small white spot near his
mouth. Is there another medicine or technique that you could
suggest? <Mmm... the next most likely effective, and safe... Maracyn
II, Minocycline> Along with the Maracyn, the LFS recommended that I
raise the temp in the tank (it is now about 80) <I also agree
here> and I also added some salt <Mmm, no... Definitely not. None
of the fish species you list has much tolerance for this> which I
was unaware was needed in a freshwater tank. I am not sure
what to do next so I was hoping for some insight from your
website. Thanks in advance for your help
in this matter. I know these are only Neons and I would
really like to see them get better but I don't want to lose my tank
population either. Theresa <Do raise
the temperature, to the mid eighties F., and try the Maracyn II... Bob
Fenner>
Re: Seemingly Incurable Mouth Fungus II
3/11/07 Thank you for the info and most of all the quick
response! <<Bob answered your original query'¦a
"you're welcome" on his behalf. Lisa Brown here.>>
It is greatly appreciated by me and the tank. I have started
to raise the temperature to the mid80s and I am now on my way to try
and find the Maracyn II. I really hope this will save the
affected fish. <<Likely will. Be sure to
keep pristine water conditions as well.>> Just
a few more questions - should I do a water change before I begin the
next treatment and if I cannot find the Maracyn II should I try another
treatment with the regular Maracyn? <<Yes to the water change
(~25%). You should have no trouble finding Maracyn II.
Either at your LFS, or online from a number of vendors.>> Thanks
again, Theresa <<Glad to help Theresa. Lisa
Brown.>>
Re: Seemingly Incurable Mouth Fungus II --
03/15/07 So, I am on the 4th of the 5th day of treatment with the
Maracyn II and there is no improvement in the fish. My water
has become quite cloudy (I did remove the carbon prior to the
treatment) and it seems to have a yellowish tinge for some reason.
<Medication effects> One of the other Neons has a small spot on
its mouth also. I did a few tests on the water quality and
the ph is about 7.2 and it tested as being on the hard
side. Do you have any more advice for me
as I am not sure where to go from here? <A microscope, reference
works...> Do a water change and start another treatment with
something else or should I keep with the Maracyn II as the fish has
been sick for awhile and maybe it will take 2 treatments? As
you can tell I am grasping at straws!
Thanks again. Theresa <I would continue to
monitor water quality... finish the Antibiotic treatments... and read.
Bob Fenner>
My Tetra's mouth has moved
3/11/07 I have a 10 gal tank with 3 black skirt tetras 1 white
skirt and an Otocinclus. The white skirt is the oldest member and her
mouth seems to have moved from the point of her face up her face toward
the top of her head. The bottom Jaw flesh seems to have gotten bigger
and the top lip receded so that it looks like she cannot really close
her mouth totally. I suspected maybe mouth rot, but there is no white
fuzz on her. <Mmm... much more likely "something"
developmental (like acromegaly in humans) or resultant from an injury
(jumping...)> I had one other white skirt go this way until he
started swimming on his side in vertical circles and doing stupid stuff
so I euthanized him. Any ideas what I am dealing with? Could it just be
an old age issue? <Yes> Her right eye seems to have eye pop also,
but her left one is okay. I have been changing the water weekly, but
the water temp is a little high due to treatment for suspected Ich.
<Mmm, not likely too high... can tolerate temperatures into the low
nineties F.> Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks <What
is your water quality overall? Hardness, pH... do you have appreciable
nitrate? Bob Fenner>
Re: My Tetra's mouth has moved
(follow-up) - 3/12/07 <<Hello. Tom covering for
Bob this time.>> Water quality: Nitrites 0, ammonia 0.
Don't have hardness or nitrate tester. But this may be an issue, my
pH reads 7.6 but this is the max the tester will register so it may be
higher. Could this be the issue? <<Not 'the' issue, as
such, but could definitely be 'an' issue, as you suggest. A
high pH level isn't the problem it was once seen to be as long as
it remains stable. Fish acclimate to pH ranges outside of the
'ideal' quite readily, for the most part, and the consensus is
that it's better to keep our fish in water that's readily
available from the tap rather than 'toying' with it where pH is
concerned. Bob's reference to water hardness was meant to get a
sense of the buffering capability of your water, i.e. the ability of
the water to resist changes in pH. The higher the buffering capacity,
the less likely you will experience a dangerous, potentially
catastrophic, drop in pH. To address your question more specifically,
White Skirt Tetras have a pretty wide pH-tolerance range with the high
end being around 8.5. There aren't many fish in the freshwater
arena that 'prefer' pH levels this high even among the
Cichlids, which are known for thriving in alkaline water.>> How
do I lower it on a permanent basis? <<Rather than
saying you can't, I'd prefer to tell you not to try. First, it
may be totally unnecessary and, second, you may be setting yourself up
for problems. The saltwater folks have a leg up on most of us FW
hobbyists as there are substrate materials, aragonite in particular,
that constantly provide calcium carbonate (among other trace elements)
to the water, raising pH to levels their aquariums require on what
might be deemed a 'permanent' basis. Lowering pH is more
problematic and, unfortunately, temporary over the long haul. Just not
a good idea with play with it.>> I will try to get the other
testers but we live in a small community and may not be able to
quickly. <<As you've probably surmised, I don't think
this is necessarily an urgent matter but I agree that it's one that
should be looked into soon. You need to have a feel for the buffering
capacity of your water to ensure there are no sudden plunges in your pH
levels. If there's an issue here, this is it in my opinion. My best
to you. Tom>>
Diseased Flame Tetra 6/20/06 WWM Crew,
<Hello - this is Jorie> First, I would like to thank you for
such an amazing website. <Bob's the best - we all agree!>
I have read many of your extensive FAQs and find them to be
invaluable. <Me too!> Unfortunately, I found this flame tetra
on his side on the bottom of my 50g tank two days ago. I
moved him to a QT tank and added aquarium salt and QuickCure
(Formalin + Malachite Green). <QuickCure is a *very* harsh
medication - what prompted you to use this? To the best of my
knowledge, it is an anti-parasitic medication, and based on your
attached picture and description, I don't see where you are
concerned about parasites. let's start at the
beginning - what behavioral/physical symptoms have you noticed with
your flame tetra and how long have these symptoms been going
on?> He is able to swim freely but he spends most of
his time on the bottom of the tank. He seems to prefer
lying on the "front side" (see attached picture), but
sometimes struggles, and succeeds, to sit upright. For a
sick fish, he's really active. He's lost a lot
of his color, has a kink in his spine near the end of his tail, and
is missing some fin. The "back side" seems to
have a few red spots but this may just be residual
color. He is refusing food. All other fish in
the main tank seem to be healthy. <I'm glad you isolated
this fish. Could be a couple of things. The
crooked spine could be indicative of piscine tuberculosis - for
which there is no known cure as far as I know. Also, the
fish could be suffering from a swim/air bladder problem, which
could be bacterial in nature.> I'm wondering if this is
tuberculosis. <Could be - see above.> Should I
try tetracycline or erythromycin? <First off, I'd suggest
getting the QuickCure out of the water. Do water changes
and put in fresh carbon or other filter media. Then, I
would recommend using a broad spectrum antibiotic, such as
tetracycline or erythromycin, or even Maracyn I or
II. At the very least, an antibiotic such as this will
prevent secondary infections in the torn fins; best case scenario,
it may in fact alleviate the primary problem of a swim bladder
disease (if it is indeed that). Something
else? Can antibiotics put in the water (as opposed to
medicated food) help with internal infections? <You are very
astute in pointing out that internal ingestion of the medication is
the best way to deal with internal infections. However,
many fish refuse to eat medicated food like this. There
are a couple of brands out there - one is called "Pepso",
and the other I am aware of can be found at
www.floridaguppiesplus.com. If you don't have the
medicated food on hand, the powdered antibiotics in the water are
your second best option. Based on the fact that I
can't give you a 100% certain diagnosis and we are simply
trying a broad spectrum antibiotic, I'd say you're OK to
just use medication in the water.> I haven't been QTing fish
when I get them, but I will in the future. <Yes -
most of us have learned this lesson the hard way.> Aren't
there a lot of diseases that are often unnoticeable for a long
time, though (such as TB)? Is 2-4 weeks really a long
enough QT period? <I tend to keep my fish in QT for around a
month and have found this to be sufficient. This is
typically long enough to allow a close observation of the fish to
see if any parasites, diseases, etc. are present.> Main Tank
Parameters: pH: 7.0 Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm Nitrate: 10ppm
<All good> Main Tank Inhabitants: 1 other flame tetra 1 neon
tetra 2 lemon tetras 2 blue tetras a few snails that materialized
out of nowhere (no additions of plants for 3-4 months before
appearance). They are flat on one side, any ideas on
what they are? <Do you mean a flat spiral? If so, possibly
Ramshorn snails?> The tank has been running for 6-7 months.
<Good - seems as though your tank is cycled and everything has
been going well. Again, I'm very glad you took the
affected fish out of the main system. Do keep up with
your water changes on the main tank, just in case something was
introduced prior to your moving the fish in
question. With regard to the QT, as mentioned above,
I'd recommend removing the QuickCure and medicating with a
broad spectrum antibiotic. If you still can't get
the fish to eat, you could soak food in Kent's Garlic Extreme
(or even McCormick's pure garlic oil), which can stimulate
interest in feeding. Aside from that, I'm curious to
know when you first saw the affected fish acting different, and
what, more specifically, you noticed. This might help in
a proper diagnosis - right now, it seems as though there's a
lot of different issues happening at the same time.> Thank you
so much! <I hope I've helped. Jorie> |
Diseased Flame Tetra PART 2
6/21/06 Jorie, Thank you so much for your reply!
<You're welcome.> Bad news. This evening I noticed
that both of my blue tetras in the main tank were ill. One
of them is darting around in circle like patterns. It seems
like he can't stop moving. The other one is behaving
more like the sick flame tetra... he has trouble controlling his
swimming and spends a lot of time on his side or in other awkward
positions, although he is quite able to move around. Both
may have one or two very small red spots on their bodies but otherwise
look fine. I've quarantined them together separately
from the flame tetra. Neither show any interest in
food. I was concerned that perhaps the flame had been sick
for a while and I had simply failed to notice it. The blues
were acting normally, however, when I wrote to you yesterday morning,
so it seems that onset of acute symptoms occurs suddenly with whatever
is affecting my fish. <In reviewing the info. from your previous
post, I believe these fish, which were likely wild caught, were
infected with something when you purchased them. Also, in
looking again at the picture you provided previously, it seems as
though there is some spinal deformity present, which supports our
previous diagnosis of fish TB. Unfortunately, the damage is
likely done even before symptoms present
themselves. Basically, your best bet is to take the
"wait and see" approach, and in the meantime, keep your tank
as clean as possible. Here's a helpful article I found
on fish TB: http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Keefer_FishTB.html. I
know you have learned your lesson, but for others out there as well, I
do want to re-emphasize the importance of quarantining newly acquired
fish...> As per your advice, I discontinued the QuickCure and
started tetracycline. So, currently, the flame tetra and the
two blues are being treated with aquarium salt (at 1tbsp/2.5gal) and
tetracycline (at Mardel's prescribed rate). <This is probably
all you can do.> All the other fish in the main tank (now down to 2
lemon tetras, 1 flame tetra, and 1 neon tetra) seem to be doing
fine. I'm wondering if I should quarantine them,
too? Perhaps I should treat them with the tetracycline as a
prophylactic? Break down the main tank? <I'm not a
fan of medicating w/o good cause, especially when talking about
antibiotics. Just like people, fish can develop resistance
to antibiotics, so it is best to save the medication for when you are
fairly certain it's needed. If indeed these fish have
TB, in all honesty, there isn't much you can do. If you
want to be super-precautious, you could break down the main tank,
bleach it out and start from scratch, but that usually is a last
resort, for many obvious reasons! You may also want to look
into a UV sterilizer - there's conflicting information about the
usefulness of this device, but I can say from personal experience when
I was combating a mysterious Rainbowfish disease, it seemed to help (in
conjunction with other more traditional remedies/preventions such as
good husbandry, etc.)> Ramshorn looks like a reasonable ID for the
snails I asked about -- I'll have to wait for them to get a little
bigger to be sure. Thanks, Jonathan <Sorry I don't have better
news for you. Do as you are doing and keep a watchful eye on
everyone. If you have a good relationship with the fish
store you purchased these fish from, I'd suggest calling and asking
if they've had problems with the batch of fish...can't
guarantee you'll get an honest answer, but you might, especially if
you know the folks...Jorie>
Diseased Flame Tetra - Necropsy
6/21/06 Jorie, More bad news. This morning I
found that the blue tetra that was having trouble staying upright has
died. The other one that is swimming rapidly
in strange patterns is still doing so. <Oh, I'm
sorry. And, it doesn't sound good for the other one.>
I'm interested in performing an autopsy of sorts on the fish that
died to see if there are growths on the internal organs which might
confirm TB. Do you have any links to information on technique for doing
this? Fortunately, I don't get the opportunity to do this very
often, and I've found that it is hard to avoid damaging the insides
beyond analysis. I assume that there is a proper way to do
this. <Some helpful sites: http://aquanic.org/real/necropsy/intro_fish.html http://www.koivet.com/handouts/akcanecropsy.doc http://ag.ansc.purdue.edu/courses/aq448/diseases/necropsy.htm
Can't say as though I've done this myself, so I really
can't offer you any more specific advice! If you have a good
veterinarian, you may want to ask if he or she will assist you, or in
the alternative, provide you with another contact person who may be
able to help. Best of luck, and sorry for your loss.>
Thanks again, Jonathan <Jorie>
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Neon Tetra help needed - 03/28/06 Hi.
<Hello> I have 5 neon tetras, 3 Zebra Danios and now 3
Fancy Guppies (1 female and 2 male) with about 7 fry hiding (mom
died)<Sorry to hear that>. When I bought my Tetras
they were all fine until the next morning. 1 had lost its
color from midway on back and was swimming funny (like it was
drunk). It has now regained its coloring and swims
better. However, it goes in fits of twirling about (fast
circular movement; head down) and other times I can't tell which
one it is in the school. What is wrong with it (maybe got
injured on the way home)? I grew up (25 years) with Tetras
(as well as the other types) and have never seen anything like
this. Do I need to remove it from the tank or is it ok to
leave it in there? Thank you, Karen in Georgia. <First,
remove the Neon to another tank. What you describe, to a large degree,
mimics "Neon Tetra Disease"; loss of coloration, erratic
swimming behavior. I've not come across any information that
describes the return of color to a fish once it's been infected,
though, which makes me wonder, to be honest with you. There is a
"false" version of the disease which is bacterial rather that
Sporozoan in its cause but it would be virtually impossible, outside of
a laboratory, for you (or I) to discern the difference. Since NTD is
spread to other fish so quickly and with such fatal results, you should
treat this as a "worst case" to protect your other pets.
Unfortunately, there is no known treatment for NTD although some claims
of success have been offered; none conclusively, I'm afraid.
Maintain your water parameters in the main tank to protect against any
spreading of whatever this may be. Best of luck to you, Karen. Tom>
Black Phantom Tetra, Webmail Issues - 12/19/2005 Hello crew,
<Hello, Camille!> I sent an email to you on December 1st
regarding my Black Phantom tetra that had not eaten much at all for a
few weeks (since being moved into a new tank). There was
apparently an issue with replying to my mail, but Don was kind enough
to track me down in the 911 forum where I had also posted a
message. <Our apologies - our Webmail system does
occasionally lose (don't know how) the "tray" for
responding to a message. I'm not sure what the
combination of settings is, but my laptop seems to be the only system
that doesn't lose this "tray".... So,
fortunately, I have the ability to reply to you.> At that time, the
fish was showing no outward signs of illness; his color was good, no
clamped fins or weird scale discolorations,
etc'¦. All water parameters were fine, and all
other fish in the tank were doing very well. He has continued to ignore
food. I did get him to take a few nibbles at some live brine
shrimp last week, but he certainly wasn't showing the same interest
as the rest of the fish. <Disturbing.> I generally
feed a combination of flake and frozen foods and I never see him show
interest in any of that (although he used to eat well in the old 20
gallon tank'¦). I added 2 additional Black Phantoms
to the tank yesterday hoping that more of his own kind would help him
feel more secure (bringing the number of Black Phantoms from 2 to 4 in
the tank). This morning, the fish in question is hanging out
at the top of the tank and seems to be breathing more rapidly than
normal. He may also have a light patch of scales under his
chin (in the gill area), but its been hard to get a real good look at
him; whenever I closely approach the tank he turns and swims away from
me, but I've caught several glimpses of what may be a light skin
patch'¦. All other fish in the tank continue to do
well; everyone eats and displays a normal activity
level. The Black Phantom is the only one at the top of the
tank with an increased respiration rate. <So
frustrating!! There really are quite a number of
possibilities at this point; I would be more likely to think he may
have an internal bacterial infection than anything....> Tank specs
are as follows: 55 gallon Live plants (Anubias, crypts, java fern,
Ludwigia) Eco-complete substrate No Co2 or fertilizers used
Inhabitants: 6 Neons 4 Black Phantoms 3 Pristellas 6 Panda Corys
miscellaneous snails that hitched in on the plants Water parameters as
of this morning: Temp 79 F Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5 ppm Hardness 5
deg KH, 10 deg GH pH 7.4 A small water change (~10%) was performed last
night. <All sounds great.... nothing at all that catches
my eye here.> Is there anything I can do for this fish? I
do have a quarantine tank I can move him to if needed.
<I would, most certainly - if not to help the sick fish, then to
protect your other livestock from contracting what he's got (if
anything). I would consider feeding him an antibacterial
flake food, but if he's not eating, this is obviously going to be
difficult at best. Food medicated with Oxytetracycline would
be my choice, if you can get him to eat anything.> Any suggestions
are greatly appreciated!! If this email can't be replied
to (which was the issue with my original query), can someone post a
reply in the 911 forum?? My post there is entitled
'Black Phantom tetra won't eat (a little long'¦)'
and was originally posted on December 2nd under the name
CMERRELL. Thanks for reading and I hope someone can
help. <I'll take a look there, as well, and see if
there's anything else that catches my eye.> I really hate to see
the little guy in distress! <I do very much
understand.... My sympathies to you, and to him - I hope he
can pull through for you.> Best regards, -Camille Merrell
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Black Phantom Tetra, Webmail Issues - II - 12/25/2005 Hi
Sabrina, <Camille, my apologies for the delay in this reply.>
Thanks so much for responding to my email! <Of
course.> I really appreciate the service you and your colleagues
provide. <Thank you for these kind words - we are glad
to be of service.> Unfortunately, my little Black Phantom did not
pull through. He died on Sunday night. <I am
so sorry to hear this!> I sent a follow-up email after this initial
message that you responded to <I fear I/we did not see this
follow-up - blast this webmail!> which mentioned he had started to
excrete what looked like a thick whitish string of fecal
material. <A possible indication of internal
parasites.... other possibilities.> This was trailing
from him for several hours and his anal vent area looked a bit red and
irritated to me. Eventually, the string apparently had
exited his body and he actually appeared to be breathing
easier. I was hoping against hope that maybe he still had a
fighting chance, but when I checked on him an hour later he had
died. <So sorry....> I really hope he didn't have
anything going on that has put my other fish at risk, but I suppose
only time will tell. <Agreed. Be keeping a
close eye on your livestock.> Thanks again for the
response. I am new to fish keeping and the information on
your website has been very helpful to me. <I really am
glad to hear this.... It's comments like these that
really keep us going. Thank you.> Best regards and
holiday wishes, <And happy holidays to you!> Camille Merrell
<All the best, -Sabrina>
Tetras with sores Hi there, I have several black high skirt
tetras of different ages. The problem is as they get older
and larger, 2 of them developed a sore around their mouths. <Sores
around the mouth are often times due to mouth fungus. Which
is a treatable disease, I have found that medicines from the Mardel
company have worked exceptionally well.> The largest one died and I
am worried this will continue until I find the problem. They
share the tank with red serapes and a 5-6 inch Pleco. <There
doesn't seem to be any sort of tank mates that would be nipping or
bothering the Black Skirts.> Any suggestions would be great.
<Make sure that the filtration is good on your tank, keep up on the
water changes. This will help keep the fish's immune
system working well, and it will also offer a better environment so
that fungus and bacteria won't be able to
thrive. It's best for you to set up a quarantine tank,
so in the case that your fish do come down with more sores around their
mouth then you will be able to remove them from the tank and medicate
them. Look at medicines like Maracyn, and even a broader
based medicine like Maracide from Mardel for a good treatment for the
problem.> Thanks, Belinda <Good Luck. -Magnus>
Black Skirt Tetra Issue Hi. I'm new to having fish and
need help. I set up my tank at the beginning of October (30 gallon). I
have 3 Black Skirt Tetra, 3 Zebra Danios, and 1 algae eater (sorry I
don't know his real name - it starts with a P). <Pleco works>
Earlier today one of the tetra died. I had noticed some erratic
behavior and sluggish swimming over the last day or so. He
also looked as though he had bubbles on him. When I removed him from
the water the bubbles were white spots, particularly on his tail. The
other two tetras are now acting oddly, they are not schooling, both are
staying near the top, which is odd for them, they normally swim near
the bottom. What do I do? I did a water change about 2 weeks ago - the
fish had been overfed while we were out of town on vacation and the
tank was covered with algae. This is when I added my algae eater. All
has been well until the last 24 hours or so. HELP! Thank
you, Allison <The white spots are a pretty sure sign of Ich. Treat
with salt. Read here for it's proper use. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=32
You should also be doing more water changes. Use a gravel vac to remove
the old food and fish waste. This is very important when treating for
Ich. Don>
Re: Black Skirt Tetra Issue Thank you for your
response! Today the white spots look more like fluffy stuff
- on the tail and fins. It almost appears to be
fungal. Thanks for any help you can offer. Allison
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwinfectdisfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Tetra Too fat Hi, I have tried to find some info on the net
regarding this but none of what I have found matches up. I have 6 x-ray
tetras in a large community tank. They have been very happy for the
last 3-4 months, only now one of them has got very fat all of a sudden
and seems to me breathing a lot more rapidly than the others. It also
is not really interested in food and just hangs around the bottom on
her own. Is it likely to be pregnant or does it seem more like an
internal parasite? If it is an internal parasite is it likely the other
fish will get it too? I have had no more additions to the tank for
almost a month so I don't know how it would have caught a parasite.
It has been like this for a few days that I have noticed. Hope you can
help! Thanks Clare < You tetra sounds like it has an internal
bacterial infection called bloat or dropsy. It is usually caused by
stress. Do a 30% water change, vacuum the gravel and clean the filter.
Then treat with Metronidazole.-chuck>
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