FAQs on Carpet Anemone Environmental Disease/Health
Carpet Anemone Disease 1,
FAQs on Carpet
Anemone Disease by Category:
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Carpet Anemone Reproduction,
Related Articles: Carpet Anemones, Stichodactyla spp., Use in
Marine Aquariums by Bob Fenner, Carpet Anemones, big,
beautiful and deadly by Mike Maddox, Bubble
Tip Anemones, Tropical
Atlantic Anemones, Anemones,
Marine Light, &
Related FAQs: Carpet Anemones 1, Carpet Anemones 2, Carpet Anemone Identification, Carpet Anemone Behavior, Carpet Anemone Compatibility, Carpet Anemone Selection, Carpet Anemone Systems, Carpet Anemone Feeding, Carpet Anemone Reproduction,
... where does it live? Is there sufficient chemical
nutrient base to support photosynthesis? I.e. measurable (but not
excessive) NO3, HPO4?
New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Haddoni anemone won't stay attached.
Hello, I have had it for over a year. When I first got it about 1 1/2" , now
about 6" . It is in 2 year old, 65g tank with a 3" saddleback, coral beauty
and Tomini tang.
<I'm surprised this anemone hasn't eaten the last two>
water 1.026 ph 8.2 dkh 9-10 m 1360 cal 380 . Lightning hydra 26's 4 t5's.
600gph w/wave makers. It has great color on its flesh, light pink and light
to dark green tentacles. It appetite is great.
<What and how often do you feed this Actinarian?>
It stands up when the lights come on as the lights intensify it flattens or
<... something odd here>
It won't stay attached to bare, soft or course substrates.
<Umm; see Mike Maddox's piece here:
and my coverage; linked at the bottom>
Currently it has attached to a small peace of egg crate.
<READ now; this is not a natural, useful attachment>
If i try to add sand around it foot it lets go and lays on top w/stem down
but its foot curved so it doesn't touch sand. I have looked at its foot and
don't see anything obvious wrong. It has attached to snail shells, it let
them go when i cleared a 12" * 12" bare spot ( sand bed 6" ). It partially
attached to bare spot. The clown is sometimes aggressive rubbing on it so i
have the clown separated (clown pissed).
If clown is in with the anemone it won't stay attached.
<They may be incompatible. I'd cover the anemone with an inverted
"strawberry" basket; or remove the clown to elsewhere>
? Mangrove mud on top of bare glass ? Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated. I have tried lots of things without any real success. It had
moved around and then stayed in the same place. This is where I bared the
<The reading. Write back if you aren't clear here. Bob Fenner>
Help with Carpet Anemone problem 11/1/19
We met many years ago in Sacramento through Kim Hanks.
<Oh! Hope to see you and her this weekend. Am headed up tomorrow/Sat. to present
to both the marine and freshwater clubs there>
I've always enjoyed your talks and your book on anemones.
I've been a lucky and dedicated carpet anemone fan for over 20 years.
<Neat animals; well worth the work>
My tank has been running continuously for that time. About 5 years ago I lost my
mertensii carpet after almost 20 years due to a power outage while I was on
vacation. I replaced with a beautiful blue carpet I was told was a gigantic, but
due to the fact that it sometimes pulls itself under the gravel completely I am
leaning towards it being a Haddoni.
<Could be; these Stichodactyla species can be hard to discern. Usually the
radiating lines from Haddon's are definitive>
I had been keeping the Haddoni in my tank successfully for the past 5 years. Its
primarily an anemone tank, with a good Zoanthid polyp colony. I have a Clarks
clown a fire angel and a yellow tang in my 75 gallon tank. I use 2 2100g per
hour current USA powerheads on surge or wave settings for circulation. I run 3
little fishes carbon in a hot magnum filter, and a remora c protein skimmer.
<Good mix of filtration, circulation...>
I do a 15% h20 change about once every month or two typically. I feed once per
day, 6 days a week two frozen prepared foods which fish and polyps consume in
about 2 min.s. I typically feed my anemone directly a small sea scallop twice a
week to encourage growth. All was well in the tank. About 5 months ago I decided
to try the new Current USA LEDs and bought two strips after my 6 bulb t5 54 w
system burned up.. Everything seemed ok for a while but after a couple months,
my anemone started to move around after being in one place for a while. I also
noticed that my zoanthids were not as open and bright as before. It didn’t dawn
on me that it might be the lights for some time. I increased water changes,
changed food and played around with current a bit to see if things might
My anemone was sticky and took food with no issues and continued to be large and
otherwise appeared healthy other than the migration. But I know a moving anemone
is an unhappy one. It finally settled in the dead center of the tank. I took the
opportunity to put some live rock around him buried in the sand to try and keep
him in one place.
About three weeks back I noticed despite finally settling in one spot, its mouth
was starting to invert. In frustration, I continued weekly 10% h2o changes and
kept researching. Last week I was reading up on the LED lighting and decided
that my system was not producing powerful enough light for the SPS or Anemone
and that was causing all the issues.
<Could be the photo strength, even just the mix of spectra... being deficient>
I have since purchased an 8 bulb t5 set up which produced 450 w of lighting. All
other factors in the tank remain the same. Its been about a week now and the
anemone shows some signs of improvement but his mouth is still inverted. Still
large, still sticky, no longer moving around, but inverted mouth. I have not
tried to feed while in this condition concerned it might do harm.
<Well; a week is not much time.>
I know anemones react slowly and recover slowly as well. Are there any other
recommendations you can suggest to help with the inverted mouth now that its
been going on so long?
<Mmm; I might try adding both iodide/iodate solution and a vitamin/HUFA mix
directly to the water. SeaChem makes good brands of both; though there are other
Any suggestions on how long it might take to know if recovery is going to happen
or if I have a terminal case?
Appreciate the guidance as I do cherish the critter and hope to keep him around
for my lifetime.
408-859-XXXX (please note despite the 408 area code I am on east coast time)
<Thank you for sharing. Hope to see you Sat. in Sacto. Bob Fenner>
Re: Help with Carpet Anemone problem 11/1/19
Thanks for this but I live in Atlanta. Can you forward my message on to Bob?
<Ah yes; hence the ref. to East coast time. Cheers Brad. BobF>
Re: Help with Carpet Anemone problem 11/1/19
Thanks Bob, I see the inline answers below. Ill try the iodine. Appreciate your
<Do please keep me/us informed of your observations, actions. BobF>
Carpet Nem looking pale
Hello everyone! I hesitate to send too many questions your way, but
sometimes I have no other choice.
I have talked to numerous people, and you know how that goes!
<Yes... five Megs of pix...>
I bought a "mini" carpet anemone July 2013. It has done fantastically,
growing larger than the span of my hand.
Four days ago, I noticed it wasn't opening fully AND it appeared pale.
<I see this in your too-large pix>
Today, four days later, it still looks pale, is not opening and I am
I've been feeding it small pieces of clam. To my surprise, the Tang
stole the clam! I tried again, and did notice the nem is still sticky,
so maybe the Tang was just lucky.
The only thing I have done differently ( and stopped!) was adding a 2
part Alk/Calcium supplement, (Reef Fusion 1&2)
I only dosed 2 days, because after testing, I realized the Alk rose from
8.4 to 9.3! And the Calcium shot up from 380 to 480!!!!! Stupid me, I
didn't test BEFORE dosing and I know that was a mistake.
<Yes... you NEED to do this addition more gradually AND through water
changes... in pre-made, pre-supplemented new water>
So, the question is, do you think this fluctuation caused my carpet nem
to expel its Zooxanthellae?
AND, should I continue to feed, AND will it survive my mistake?
<Yes and hopefully>
Thanks so much for your expertise!
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner>
Re: Carpet Nem looking pale
is this pic better Bob?
<Fab! Thank you Pam. B>
Anemone Mouth is "Inside-Out" - 10/15/06 First of
all thank you for all the valuable information you have provided on
this website. <<A collective effort...you are quite
welcome>> I have recently purchased a Stichodactyla haddoni
approximately 9" diameter at full extension. <<Do have a
read here and among the linked files at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>>
First of all my tank is a 90 gallon, lighting provided by dual 150HQI
10,000K dual 110W actinic PC and moon lighting. <<Sounds
good>> Temp is 77-79, SG 1.025, NH3-0, NO2-0, NO3-0 or not
detectable, Calcium 410ppm. <<Good again>> Approximately
120lbs of live rock and 3" sand bed. <<Mmm, would recommend
a bit less rock and more open substrate with an inch or two more depth
for this species>> Flow is provided by the 1200GPH return pump
corrected to 700GPH and dual outlets, also a SEIO
1500GPH. Inhabitants include: -Bubble Coral Medium-Small
Size -Green Star Polyps -Large Montipora capricornis -A few SPS frags
Acropora mostly -A few various frags -Small bright green candy cane
<<Am sure you are aware of our feelings re mixing sessile and
motile invertebrates??? I have been careful to allow appropriate
distance between all corals and allowing growing room. <<One can
hope...>> Fish include: -Pair of Percula Misbars -Atlantic Blue
Tang <<The tank is too small for this fish>> -Solar Rentis
Wrasse <<...? Solorensis Wrasse?>> -Blue Spot
Goby -Two Cleaner Shrimps Filtration is provided by a 160 (at least
can't remember exact) gallon capacity Euro-Reef skimmer and a
reverse light cycle Chaetomorpha refugium. <<Great skimmer, great
macro-algae/application>> All water is RO/DI and weekly 10% water
changes. Needless to say I am aware of the high demands of
an anemone and did quite a bit of research however this has been a
specimen I have been searching for. <<Then you are aware they are
best kept in species/specimen specific systems>> The tank is
approximately 9 months old and has been very stable with no deaths
after initial cycling except for the occasional overturned snail.
<<Yet still a bit "young" for an anemone system>>
This is not my first tank though I am no professional aquarist
<<Me neither <grin> >> I do however care to learn as
much about an animal as I can prior to purchase and now I am trying to
figure out a way to care for this animal given its recent behavior.
<<I see>> I have been reading about the problem I have and
have found conflicting information regarding it. <<Ah yes...is a
hobby based on much "opinion">> Apparently some sources
say that when an Anemone exposes its insides so to speak it is near
death likely caused by poor acclimation out of the ocean and constant
transport. <<Not uncommon>> This makes sense for me, I have
had this anemone for 6 days and it was transshipped from the ocean
probably the week before that or less. <<Likely a stressed animal
then, yes>> However I read some posts by Anthony on this website
and his concern for problems similar to this were not this serious.
<<Perhaps differences in circumstance/symptoms>> I am
wondering is there anything I can do. The anemone will eat
PE Mysis if I feed it however I feel like feeding is not necessary more
than once a week from what I have read. <<A couple
"light" feedings a week would be fine>> The anemone is
still sticky to touch but not as sticky as when I purchased.
<<Not always symptomatic of something bad as long as the anemone
can still capture/each foodstuffs>> He deflates at night and
re-inflates, as it gets closer to lights on in the morning staying
inflated throughout the day. Often it is night when I see
this inside out mouth behavior, you can almost see what resembles
'guts' bulging out of the mouth. <<Mmm...at this
point/based on your previous info I think this anemone is likely
recovering from the stress of capture/handling/transport and getting
"settled-in">> During the day the anemones mouth is
usually tight and closed. <<A good sign>> I first though
maybe a cleaner shrimp got to his mouth and started digging however
seeing the anemone return to normal eased these
concerns. The cleaner shrimp do often steel food from the
anemone with no concern of getting stung. <<Indeed...though
rarely do they do any real "harm">> The anemone does
not host the clowns currently and the clowns ignore him as far as I can
tell. <<Actually, this is better for the anemone at this
stage. Clownfish can get pretty rough at times with their
host anemones and this is hard on (sometimes fatal to) an already
stressed specimen>> I realize there is little I can do for a sick
anemone but I am curious to rather or not he is dying or I am to expect
this behavior for a new acclimated anemone or if there are any steps I
can take? <<Keep a close eye on it, maintain pristine water
conditions, and keep feeding...>> Also the anemone is attached to
the rock not the sand. <<Hmm...is there room on the
substrate? This species does like to retract/hide in the
substrate when disturbed>> The foot looks healthy and the anemone
is retaining his light green color with no sign of bleaching.
<<Keep up the good care and there's a good chance this
anemone will recover>> Thanks again, Wyatt <<Happy to
Systems/Green Carpet Anemone Death 5/2/06 Hi guys
and gals. I just had a carpet anemone pass after having him
for a little longer than a week. I did a large water change
and added some carbon to try and prevent any noxious elements from
harming the rest of the livestock. Here are the specs on the
tank: 36 gallon, 30" wide, 20" tall bowfront reef
tank. <Much too small a tank for keeping this
anemone.> The tank has 45 pounds of liverock, 40 pounds of sand, a
hang on the back - 3 gallon refugium with multiple macroalgae (no
Caulerpa). The refugium lighting is on when the tank
lighting is off and vice versa. The livestock is two Perc
clowns, one coral beauty angel, one star polyp, one pom pom xenia, a
few blue-legged hermit crabs, two turbo snails and a cleaner
shrimp. The tank is lit by a 130W PowerCompact, one 65w
actinic and one 65w 10,000K/6700K SunPaq. <Not nearly enough light
for keeping this species.> (I have two 150watt, 10,000K MH bulbs on
the way). The lights are on for 10 hours a day. The anemone
arrived and looked to be in very good condition. I placed
him on the live rock and he moved to a location in the back of the tank
lodged between some rock and the glass. A day later he moved
a couple inches away and then moved back. I fed him three
1/4" chunks of silverside during the first week. Two
days ago I fed him a 1/4" chunk of raw shrimp to vary the
diet. Before I fed him the raw shrimp he was staying
expanded about half the day and contracted the
rest. Sometimes when he was contracted it would look as
though his insides were coming out or his mouth was shaped like a ping
pong ball. After feeding him the shrimp he never expanded
again. I ordered him from liveaquaria.com so I'll get a full
refund, but that really isn't the point. I'd like to
prevent this from happening again. What parameters besides ammonia,
nitrites, nitrates can I check? I ordered some reef plus to
add vitamins to the tank and also some Selcon to dip food
in. Are there any other suggestion for improvement? <Your
system is very non-supportive for this animal. Carpet anemones are
sensitive to changes in water parameters. This can happen
fast in a 36 gallon tank. A minimum tank size of 100 gallons
would be my recommendation. Live Aquaria states a minimum of
30 gallons, yet they tell you this animal is for expert aquarists only.
Doesn't make much sense to me as these anemones can grow close to
two feet in diameter. With your size tank I'd forget
about carpets completely. I might point out that all the
anemone species the percula clowns prefer are difficult to keep for any
length of time.> Thanks for the great website. I
literally have three web browsers open at any given time because I
don't want to lose my place once I follow a link! <James (Salty
Dog)> Ryan Mullinax
Re: Anemone Systems/Green Carpet Anemone Death -
5/2/2006 Thanks Salty. I'll be sure to do more
research before any more purchases. <You're welcome and yes, do
research all animals before buying.> Can you recommend what marine
testing kits NOT to get? <I'm not real fond of the Red Sea Test
Kits (personal opinion)> I've been reading the testing kit FAQs
and they're pointing to LaMotte and Hach, but I'm reading that
they're very expensive. <Yes, I've used LaMotte kits, very
nice and accurate. I'm sure Hach follows the same
order.> I also didn't see calcium test kits on their
sites. <I'm sure both companies make this kit. The
Sea Chem Calcium Test Kit is one of my favorites, don't care too
much for their pH/alkalinity kit though. Is accurate but
clumsy to use, especially the pH. For pH and nitrate I use
Aquariums Systems kits. James (Salty Dog)> Ryan
Mullinax <Ryan, do not place phone numbers, mailing addys
or other personal info in your queries. I just delete them
anyway for your own privacy as gazillions of people read the
dailies.> <<And they are archived, viewed for all eternity...