Re: Sick Betta 9/28/08
Hi again. After a few days, I realized that my Betta is actually having constipation. I've fed him peas, but he is still not clearing out his waste and his stomach just keeps getting larger. Why is this so? What do I do then?
<It is possible that it is not constipation and could be an infection or tumor. If the symptoms persist I would try a treatment with Maracyn.>
<Chris>

Oh yeah. I forgot to tell you that my red Betta's stomach is very bloated and kinda yellow, very distinct compared to his red body.
<I would try a round of antibiotic along with the peas, this may be more than constipation.>
It has gone to a point that his scales at his stomach is kinda raised. I've seriously tried everything: feed peas, change water, add salt,............What do I do now? What does the yellow stomach mean? Why does he not excrete waste even though he is eating peas???
<He could be just when you are not around, or something could be blocking his ability.>
Is it another kind of infection coming on??? Thank you. Please save him.
His tank is not filtered but I just changed his water yesterday.
<This is a big clue, like all fish Bettas need a heated and filtered tank, otherwise they suffer and are disease prone.>
It is not aerated either cause the filters are too strong.
<I strongly encourage you to get a air drive sponge filter and heater for this fish. Bettas do not belong in bowls any more than any other fish. Also Epson salts (magnesium sulfate) may help here as well.>
<Chris>

My female Betta has white stringy stuff hanging from her body right by her fins. What's happening?    9/28/08
<Sounds like Finrot, possibly also Fungus. Treat with Maracyn or some other reliable product (as opposed to make-believe medications like Melafix or salt). Both these diseases are caused by the environment, so let's recap: Bettas need an aquarium (not a bowl) containing at least 5 gallons of water, a filter, and a heater. If you aren't using those things, for example keeping your Betta in a jar under a table lamp, then that's your problem. The reason I mention this is that we seem to get huge numbers of messages from people who -- because they haven't done any research -- assume Bettas can be kept in the same way as pet rocks. They can't. If this isn't the issue, and you're sensibly keeping the Betta in a nice filtered, heated aquarium, then do consider the other usual source of Finrot and Fungus, damage from other livestock. Some fish will nip at Bettas, most notably various tetras and barbs. When the wounds become infected (in part because water quality isn't particularly good, it has to be said) then the result is Finrot and Fungus. Again, treat with Maracyn or some equivalent product capable of treating both diseases simultaneously. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: What's happening? Betta    9/29/08
I do have an at least 5 gallons, but it isn't heated. I disappeared today. I kind of scared my because I thought she was giving birth or something! But now that there is a logical explanation it all makes sense. Thanks for the advice, -Brogan
<Well, do ensure the temperature in the tank is around 26-28 C using a heater of some sort. Choose the right size of your tank (admittedly only a limited range are suitable for tanks a mere 5 gallons). Do also remember Bettas are labyrinth fish, which means they breathe air, and the air above the tank needs to be warm and humid otherwise they get respiratory infections. The classic way to do this is to ensure the tank has a lid. That'll not only keep the air humid, but also prevent the fish jumping out. Do also check the ammonia and/or nitrite concentration to ensure the water quality is good and the filter is working properly. Cheers, Neale.>

Fin Rot, Betta    9/28/08
Hello!
My Name is Amanda and I have a question about my crimson Betta, Mojo.
<Hi Amanda,>
I received Mojo as a gift ( I requested him :D) I love Bettas and after watching my room mate (Im in college) take care of her Betta I really wanted one... Well I have had Mojo for about a month and being a Wal-Mart rescue (he was in less than an inch of water and that was filthy!!!! I was so appalled and upset by this my boyfriend bought him and a one gallon tank that is filtered and has a small air pump)
<One gallon is still too little for these fish; 5 gallons is, in all honesty, the minimum for easy care. Do understand these are fish, despite being marketed as if they were Star Wars figures you can just play with and then ignore. They have precisely the same requirements as any other tropical fish: swimming space, heat, filtration.>
I have been worried about him being sick. After adjusting him to his new tank he has been a very active and happy fish. I added a soft plant to his tank and blue gravel.
<Ugh, blue gravel... fish don't like bright colours underneath them... very stressful. Like putting you in a room with loud noises or bad smells.>
The tank is also covered with a light and I clean it about once a week. He eats aqua culture Betta pellets ad loves to eat i feed him 1-3 pellets up to three times a day. The thing I am worried about is he is a very solid red and today I noticed a black line on the end of his fin that was NOT there before.
<Incipient Finrot, almost certainly. Do review the key needs, in particular for water quality and temperature, the two things newbie Betta keepers invariably ignore. If you detect ammonia or nitrite in the water, that's one MAJOR problem that will eventually kill the fish. Secondly, the temperature needs to be between 25-28 C, all day along. Unless you happen to live in the tropics, then your room temperature -- even with central heating -- won't be that warm. Anyone in Europe or the US will need to use a heater of some sort.>
I just want to know if this could be a sign of fin rot or could he just be changing color??
<Yes to the first, no to the second.>
I wouldn't be worried but being a rescue he was in bad shape (nearly dead) when we got him and? his top fin is bent over but not black or receding/tearing. I may just be an overprotective first time owner but I would appreciate any advice you could give me so Mojo can have a long and happy life now!!
<Do understand that being "over-protective" is a good thing with animals: but that means researching the needs of a species rather than giving it a name or buying it toys. Fish couldn't care less about that stuff. What makes them happy -- and eventually tame -- is consistently providing them with optimal environmental conditions. Do see in particular here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebindex/betta_splendens.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebindex/bettasysart.htm
>
Thanks Amanda
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Fin Rot  – 09/28/08
Thank you so much for your swift help!!
<Happy to help!>
I must admit I was completely ignorant about him needing a bigger tank and saw some great 5 to 10 gallon desk tanks on you site and was wondering if i should get the ten gallon or would he be happier in the smaller five?
<With fishkeeping, the bigger the tank, the easier it becomes. A bigger tank is more stable, and if you skip a water change or two, it's less of an issue. A bigger tank will enjoy more stable water quality and chemistry, meaning that any fish you keep will be less likely to get sick. So unless there's a huge difference in cost, go with the 10 gallon tank. You'll be so glad you did. I have several tanks this size, and properly stocked with plants, Nerite snails and cherry shrimps, you can turn these tanks into fantastically entertaining environments for your fish and yourself. All this said, a 5 gallon system is absolutely fine, and far better than most people give their Bettas (with the result that most people don't keep their Bettas alive very long...) It's just a 10 gallon system is easier to run, and you'll find it easier to find a filter and a heater that fits. Adding lights will be easier too, so you can add some hardy plants (Anubias, Java fern, Cryptocoryne wendtii) and expect them to thrive. The result will be a really lovely tank.>
Also How long should I let the larger tank cycle??
<Since you have the fish already, this question is a bit academic. Put the Betta in the tank, and use your nitrite test kit to keep tabs on the cycling process. In theory it will cycle in as little as 4 weeks though often up to six. If you transfer media the filter from your present tank (if you have one) into the bigger tank, cycling will be (effectively) instant because the bacteria will be already in the filter.>
I am taking him in to the local pet store that specialize in tropical fish to get the medicine and the water tested! I really do appreciate your help and feel terrible for my poor little Mojo! and the gravel in his tank is a Dark blue almost gray, the reason I added that earlier is i had to wash it over 15 times till no more color came off and didn't know if that would have caused his tail to change!!
<No, this isn't likely to be a factor. Indeed, most freshwater fish would prefer silty, opaque conditions given the chance!>
Thank you for your help and Mojo thanks you too!!
Amanda
<Good luck, Neale.>

crown fighting fish... beh./hlth.  9/26/08
I have a crown fighting fish and have had it for about a year now, recently it has been doing unusual things like floating to the top on its side like its playing dead but its actually still alive & eating. I never see him at the bottom of the fish bowl anymore, and if he tries to swim down , its with much effort, its like there's a magnet at the top of the water and he's stuck to it, on it's side...why?
<Can't answer this without information on the environment. Bettas never do well in "bowls" without heaters or filters, so my first questions are how warm is this bowl and what is the ammonia or nitrite concentration of the water. Bettas are fish, and like any tropical fish need warm, filtered water to stay healthy. Sticking them in bowl at room temperature is sure way to send one to a speedy death. It's a shame people get persuaded by retailers that they can be kept in bowls; they can't. Let's show respect to the Betta, and ensure that these fish are always kept in aquaria at least 5 gallons in size and with a filter and a heater keeping the water at not less than 25C/77F. If you aren't doing these things, then that's what's caused your fish to get ill. Cheers, Neale.>

Sick Betta 9/24/08
Hey. This is regarding a very worried Betta owner. 1 day ago, my Betta fish changed from a bright red colour and feisty personality to just a pale sickly old fish and lethargic thing. I'm worried about his condition esp. since its the first time he's really ill. He has lost his appetite and just wants to rest the whole day. His stomach is significantly swollen and he has lost his colour. Also, his scales are mildly raised on his back, otherwise, his other scales are fine and there is no pineconing. What should I do?...Please answer asap k? Cos I want to start treatment asap. Yup. I really appreciate any help I can get. Thank you.
<The vast majority of Betta problems are environmental in nature. SO what type of tank is he kept in? Is it heated, filtered? How old is he? What are your water parameters and when was your last water change? I think you will find most of your questions answered here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm , in the Betta section. Please give it a read. Also next time please spell and grammar check your queries as posted here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm , since we have to do this before posting.>
<Thanks>
<Chris> 

Sick Betta Fish   9/19/08 To: The Crew <Hello,> I think that my female Betta fish is sick, and if she is, I'm confused as to what is wrong with her. Let me start from the beginning... A coworker of mine owned this Betta fish for about a year and also kept her n the office. The coworker left her job and also left her fish! Rude, but true! Since I had become quite attached to Lucy over this time, I decided to bring her home with me. This was over the Fourth of July weekend, 2008. She had been living in a bowl that wasn't cleaned very often, and in an office that was pretty cold most of the time. I set up a 10 gallon tank for her and introduced her to her new home. Lucy seemed to adjust wonderfully to this change and for about the first three weeks, things were great. Then, I went away for five days at the end of July. I was completely distraught about how to feed her while I was away and eventually decided on getting an automatic fish feeder. <No....! Automatic feeders are at best unnecessary, and at worst a guaranteed way to turn your aquarium into a septic tank during your absence. Fish can go many days, even weeks, without food. Water quality will stay much better if you don't feed your fish. Instead have a friend just check the water is warm and the filter working, but otherwise leave fish unfed for periods of up to 7 days, and for longer periods a single meal per week is usually ample.> I knew before I left that it dished out way more food than I wanted it to, but at least I knew she wouldn't go hungry. When I got home, the only visible change was cloudiness, a lot of food on the bottom and after a few days, brown algae. I used a gravel vacuum to clean up the food, which I did three times that week. The ammonia and nitrite levels weren't zero anymore, so I did water changes every day until these were back down to zero. <Your fish has a serious bacterial infection, Finrot is usually caused by poor water quality, and my guess would be that your fish is quite old (they're basically annual fish in the wild) and exposure to ammonia/nitrite overwhelmed its immune system. The cure is two-fold: treat with Maracyn (US) or eSHa 2000 (Europe) and at the same time optimise water quality.> Then, the diatoms appeared. I was told that this wasn't harmful to fish, so I didn't worry about it, but I did vacuum the tank pretty regularly and rinsed off any decorations that were looking really bad. <Diatoms are indeed harmless. Usually appear in dimly-lit tanks, but they also appear when water quality varies rapidly. Very common in new tanks for that reason. So while they can be an indication something was wrong with the tank, they're not in themselves a problem.> Then, sometime during the second full week of August, I noticed a few things about Lucy. She wasn't eating as much as she used to. She would stare at the food and then swim away. Eventually, she would eat a flake or two, but she would take a long time to eat. She also takes a long time to eat blood worms, which isn't normal for her at all. The second thing that I noticed was something strange going on at the top of her body, right behind her head. It looked as though she had dry skin or that she scraped herself. That area eventually became a yellowish color; as if the scales were rubbed off. I can also see what looks like her spine sticking out/up.(I have attached a picture to try to show this). I guess I kept thinking that it must be some kind of scraping, because nothing that I read in books or on the Internet remotely described this condition. She also seems to be "crooked". Now, for as long as I knew her in her bowl, she would often times appear to be a little crooked, but could always straighten back up again. This new crookedness never goes away. She doesn't appear to have any problems swimming because of this, though. Other than what I have described, she was acting normal. Still energetic and friendly. <As stated, I think this is a combination of age/stress.> Then, on August 31st, I added two Otocinclus catfish to the tank. <Not my favourite fish. They are extremely difficult to maintain because they need spotlessly clean, relatively cool water with a strong water current. In other words, not the conditions in your Betta aquarium (and I will bet all the money in my pocket that yours will be dead within 6 months). They also attack slow-moving fish, grazing mucous from the body. I've seen this happen, and while I suspect it might be a sign the Otocinclus are hungry, but even so, why risk it?> Then, on the 5th of September, I thought I noticed white spots, a few on each side, of Lucy. This is in addition to her "dry" skin, crookedness and lack of appetite. <I'd be SERIOUSLY concerned about the Otocinclus making things worse here. These catfish just aren't viable tankmates here, and I do wish aquarium shops would stop selling them! Or at least, wouldn't push them on casual aquarists in now way prepared to keep them.> But, even though I know I definitely saw something on her, I really couldn't tell if it matched the description of ich. I couldn't always see these spots from every angle and my husband didn't think they looked like white spots. So, I went running around to many different pet stores looking at all the different medicines. Nothing looked like it matched her description, so I didn't buy anything. I did, however, pick up algae wafers for the catfish, since by now the tank was sparkling clean. The instructions on these things were so vague, and I've never had fish before, so I put in two of these wafers; one for each fish. I had no idea what these things would do, or else I would have known not to put that much in. <One algae wafer per day would be ample for six to eight Otocinclus spp. These are schooling catfish by the way, and don't do well kept singly or in twos and threes.> Anyway, I woke up the next morning and Lucy was laying in the bottom of the tank right by the algae, which was all soft and flowing now, and she looked as if she was gasping for air. <Probably overfeeding, likely stress. I just WOULD NOT trust a Betta with Otocinclus.> She was actually opening and closing her mouth...nonstop. Her gills even seemed to be moving really fast too. I immediately vacuumed out the algae and did a 50% water change. This, at least, stopped her from "panting". At this point, I knew I needed to do something and the safest sounding thing to use/try that I found on the Internet was Aquari-sol. I could only find one pet store in my general area who sold it, so I went to get some. The clerk at the pet store thought that her breathing heaving had nothing to do with the algae (although I was reprimanded for putting so much in) and that he said it sounded like she has parasites on her gills. <Do be careful about randomly adding medications; you can do more harm than good. In this instance, you surely need to treat for Finrot before worrying about anything else.> So, I treated the tank from September 7th through the 16th with Aquari-sol, removed the carbon filter and I also raised the temperature to 86 degrees. Throughout this time, Lucy hasn't been very energetic. She spends most of her time laying in a plant or hanging by the heater. Sometimes she is right up against it. She will swim around for a little bit, but then she will just shut down. Also during this week, her fins became torn looking. They don't looked frayed, just ripped. <Again, classic Finrot symptoms.> And now that I stopped the treatment, whatever the white spots were didn't necessarily go away, but now looks like dry skin too, as if she is peeling. I have also noticed a few "dirty" looking marks that have developed on her. These marks are brown in color and it looks like she is just dirty. (I have attached a picture to try and show this - you can also see some damage to one of her pelvic fins). I have now returned the carbon back into the filter and have gotten the temperature down to 82 degrees. I am working on getting it all the way back to 80 degrees, which is where I originally had it. My tank specifications are: Size: 10 gallons Whisper Power Filter Heater is currently at 82 degrees, but is normally at 80 degrees pH: 8 ammonia: 0 nitrites: 0 I also added an air stone and an aerator when I turned the heat up. <Too warm for Otocinclus in the long term; they need something around the 22-24 C/72-75F level.> I am so sorry for the length of this email. I know that I probably mentioned a lot of unnecessary things, but I didn't want to leave any important information out. I truly appreciate any help that you can give me. I just want Lucy to be happy and healthy and after fruitless hours of searching the Internet for answers, I came across your Website and thought maybe you could help. Thanks again. I really appreciate this. Kristin <Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Sick Betta Fish  9/22/08 Hello Again. <Kristin,> Thank you so much, Neale, for such a quick reply. I will definitely take the advice about the automatic fish feeder in the future. <Good.> Thank you for your diagnosis and medication recommendation. I certainly didn't want to treat her for the wrong thing. From everything I have read about fish diseases, nothing seemed to fit the symptoms that I was looking for, so I am very thankful for your assessment. I started her on the Maracyn on Friday night. Last night was her third dose, and as of this morning, I haven't seen any improvement. <Oh. Do give it time...> I still have two days of treatment left though, as per the box instructions. I was wondering what you thought I should do, if this doesn't work. The instructions for the Maracyn seem to indicate that if the first treatment doesn't work, that I can either treat her for five more days with the Maracyn or that I could switch to Maracyn-Two. <Correct. Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2 treat different types of bacterial (gram positive versus gram negative, to be precise) so if one doesn't work, the other should.> I'm certainly not looking to drug her to death, but I do want her to get better. I would truly appreciate your opinion on this. I was also wondering about something else. I had to take my carbon filter out, since the Maracyn instructions said that if the filter was less than five days old I should remove it. <Correct. Carbon removes most organic materials from water, which is why, for example, it's used to treat poisons in the Emergency Room of hospitals. But while that's a good thing, it just as happily removed good drugs (medications) as well as bad ones (poisons). By default, I recommend against using the stuff in any freshwater aquarium unless YOU know precisely how it works and what it's for. Most aquarists use the stuff because they're told they need it, and they don't know enough to refuse the sales pitch from the retailer/manufacturer.> As of yesterday, my water tests have been 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites. If these numbers should change and I need to do a water change, do I just continue the medicine doses as normal, or is there something special I would need to do to? <Just carry on, doing a generous water change at the end of each full course of medication.> I had no idea that Otocinclus catfish could be so destructive. I have never noticed any aggressive behavior from either one of them. I guess I need to figure out what I am going to do about them. <They're not "aggressive" as such, it's just that hungry Otocinclus will view slow-moving fish as a buffet bar. Have seen this myself, and had to deal with the consequences, a seriously damaged Goby.> You mentioned that you were concerned about the Otocinclus making things worse. Do you mean you think that they have already attacked her and I just haven't seen it and that maybe they have caused her some physical damage? <Either. What the Otocinclus certainly will do is consume the mucous, rasping the skin, producing what looks like pus-filled outgrowths and blemishes. Not all Otocinclus do this, but do be aware of it, and watch them.> In the meantime, I'll continue her medicine regimen and I'll have to figure out what I can do with the Otos. <OK.> Thank you again for all of your advice. I appreciate the time that you must put into answering these questions. <Most welcome.> Sincerely, Kristin <Cheers, Neale.>

please i need help with my Betta  9/18/09
Good morning,
<Good morning!>
I live in Bangalore , India where pet shops are not very evolved...i was given a small bottle of orange liquid -already mixed ...no clue what's in it!!
<Me neither... could be tea-tree oil (Melaleuca oil), a mild antiseptic sometimes used in fishkeeping.>
and told to add 3 drops when i do a water change- for colour of fish and plants.. That's how evolved it is....and i think, here, when a fish gets sick unless you help me, he will die. I am a first time fish owner. Help!!!
<If this is tea-tree oil, "evolution" has nothing to do with it! This stuff is widely used in America and Europe as well. It's not consistently effective though. So while it could be used to prevent an infection, I wouldn't ever rely on it as a cure for an existing infection.>
So i bought a male Betta. about a inch long. I keep him with a lot of floating and rooted plants in a 5 liter fish bowl.
<Too small... almost certainly any problems you have come down to water quality. Bettas are fish, and like all fish they need filtration.>
When i got him, i got online and checked what i have to do to keep him happy. I realised he had ich when i bought him and was listless. So i did everyday 1/2 water changes. (i don't have a ph measuring anything nor a filter nor a heater...it's India).
<While I agree heating may be redundant, do check the water is around 25 C constantly. As for filtration, there's no excuse for not using a filter.>
and I added sea salt everyday (less than a teaspoon into his water change) and kept him in the sun where the day temp is 27 Celsius. it made a difference in a few days...the ich left off and he was happy and energetic. I still continue the daily water changes. Water added
after tap water is left standing for 24 hours.
<OK.>
I feed him one earthworm per day- live food from soil for plants. He does not like the pellets. He eats well. as soon as i put the worm in, he eats it and that's that.
<Good.>
Yesterday when i was doing his water change, I added the orange liquid. And i gave him two worms instead of one. he ate both.
<OK.>
But this morning, his fins have shredded overnight. I don't know about finding black stuff on his fins coz his fins are coloured blue with specks of black anyways. although he is getting to be a little silvery. loosing a little colour.
<The "shredded fins" are likely Finrot. Do a water quality test: if you detect ammonia or nitrite, that's the problem. Finrot is a symptom of poor water quality almost every time.>
I think there are some things that i did different
- I added the orange liquid.
-i fed him two worms
- i poured the water in with a little more force than i normally do
<OK.>
I really need help. please tell me if he is sick and if i need to introduce medicines, how do i do that?
<The orange liquid probably won't help. Certainly can't be sure without knowing what it is. Do see here, and look in the row for Finrot. Melafix is tea-tree oil, likely the same thing as your orange liquid, and of doubtful usefulness.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwfishmeds.htm
>
Can you direct me on what i need to do? please don't tell me to put in medicines unless you can direct me on which med's( we don't have medicines for fish here) and how do i introduce it.
<Sorry, can't say anything about what's available in shops other than the ones in the UK and US -- my parts of the world. Would suggest joining a fish club in your area (many have online forums and other resources where you can talk with people who live near to you).>
speed will be much appreciated.
<Done my best.>
lost and worried
Anita
<Cheers, Neale.>

My bloated Betta GiGi... poor env.   9/15/08 I love my Betta Gigi very much and I've noticed that her <It's a boy.> belly looks like she swallowed a bean. <Not uncommon; likely overfeeding, and the wrong foods at that. The worst thing you can do is give them dried "Betta pellets" day-in, day-out. There are the equivalent of frozen pizza for humans. Fine once in a while, but not good as a staple. The problems include a lack of fibre, and this causes constipation, and that causes abdominal swelling (and presumably some discomfort to the fish). The solution is to switch to high fibre foods. Live daphnia and brine shrimp are particularly good, but failing that squished tinned peas work very well, though Bettas aren't wild about them and will need to be starved a bit before they'll eat them. Obviously avoid anything dried or freeze-dried, as these have the opposite effect and will just make things worse. Do see here for more tips on Betta diet: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betfdgfaqs.htm > I'm really concerned about her health. <Well, I'd be too, given one photo seems to imply your Betta lives in the fridge! Regardless, your "living" quarters for this Betta is essentially a cell on Death Row. I can't make this point any more clearly than this: no-one should keep a Betta in a bowl or jar. They need regular fish tanks just like any fish. I'd say something around 5 gallons would be a good starting point, providing space for the fish to swim about as well as (critically) water volume do dilute metabolic wastes. For example, I don't see a filter here. No fish lives long without a filter. Period. End of discussion. In a 5 gallon tank you can easily install an air-powered sponge filter for very little money. Likewise this is a TROPICAL fish and needs warmth; a heater is essential (unless you live in the tropics!) so that the water temperature is not less than 25 degrees C (that's 77 F if you're still Daniel Fahrenheit's system based on the freezing point of the Baltic Sea and the warmth of blood from a freshly killed pig). Room temperature won't do, and nor will a carefully positioned lamp over the top of the tank.> My symptom judgment is inexperienced and I've decided to seek assistance from a 3rd party which is yourself. <Done my best: Here's the solution. Go buy a proper aquarium with a heater and a filter. Nothing else will do in the long term.> Can you please give me your honest opinion and let me know if there is anything that can help us. <See above.> Please email me when you have come to a conclusion. Fretfully, Gigi's Momme <For good or for bad, we get a lot of messages like this one. I think people buy Bettas as pets for dormitory rooms and the like, assuming they can keep a fish in a small jug under an angle-poise lamp for warmth. You can't. The fish dies a slow and miserable death. My advice is always this: Animals don't give a hoot about having cute names or whether you love them or not. They don't register stuff like that. All they care about is how well they're maintained. If you want the animal to be happy, you provide for its needs. In the case of a Betta, that means an aquarium with a heater and a filter. The pictures you've seen of Bettas in glass jars are how they're maintained by expert breeders. The jars are in heated "fish houses" where the water is raised to the necessary temperature by the very hot air in the room. The breeder changes the water in the jars at least once per day, and more than likely will be carefully regulating food intake and measuring water quality to ensure good health. This just isn't viable for the casual aquarist with little or no experience of keeping fish in this way. Your ONLY viable option is a regular (albeit small) tropical aquarium that will keep the Betta healthy between 25-50% water changes every week or two. Cold water and cold air above the tank are lethal to them, the latter because they are air breathers and can't handle breathing cold air from a draughty room. Do read Bob Fenner's summary of their care, here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebindex/betta_splendens.htm Hope this helps, and if you need more input after reading Bob's piece, get in touch. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: My bloated Betta GiGi  9/17/08 Hello Friend, <Greetings,> Thank you very much for the quick response. So I took your advice, my Betta GiGi is no longer living in the fridge lol. Just joking she never was I just needed the extra light. But I did buy some live brine shrimp. I was unable to purchase the Daphnia they are unavailable in California. <Common enough in ponds, if your neighbours have ponds without fish.> I have just a few questions concerning the storage of brine shrimp. Currently they're in a closed container and I have so many left over.. (1)Where can I store them for later use other than my fridge? Storing them there kinda creeps me out. <They do need storing in the fridge, or else in a bucket containing salty water and an airstone. The problem is that if you keep them at room temperature without an airstone, they'll suffocate.> Also I noticed that a lot of them are hiding underneath GiGi's rocks in her tank. (2)Will they eventually contaminate the tank? <Yes; remove uneaten food within 5 minutes. Golden rule of fishkeeping, and essential in "jars" without filters or enough water volume to be safe. Are you going to upgrade the tank any time soon? What you feed the fish is neither here nor there if the basic environment is dangerous.> and I also noticed that she is spitting some of them out. (3)Is that normal? <Yes.> Also she isn't eating all of them there are about 20 swimming around in her tank. I don't want to run the risk of overfeeding her. <You're overfeeding her already. Anything she doesn't eat, is "overfeeding".> Thank you for your continued support and advice it is truly appreciated. <Does that mean you're buying an aquarium with a heater or filter? Knowing that people are going to care for their fish properly is all the reward we want.> I hope to hear from you soon. Thanks, Princesskeesah <Cheers, Neale.>

Next Steps for Betta after recovery from serious illness  9/11/08
I am e-mailing to seek your expert advise as to after care for a male Betta who has recovered from what appeared to be a serious bacterial infection.
<Ok>
I have had this fellow for almost 2 years.
<Mmm, do know that this is "about a natural lifetime" for Betta splendens>
Fortunately until recently he has never been sick or needed any type of treatment for parasites.
He lives in a filtered, heated, 5 gallon tank. Prior to treatment with antibiotics the tank was cycled and I performed 30 percent water changes every 4 to 5 days. I use a turkey baster to clean the gravel because he gets very upset with the aquarium gravel cleaner.
<Good to be upset sometimes>
About a month ago I cleaned the gravel as usual and the next day I noticed he didn't seem to be feeling very well. Things went right downhill until he was so sick that I thought he would never live. His eyes turned red (at one point I thought his eyes may even be gone) his gills were swollen and one side looked like it had a blood spot. Some of the scales seemed to be missing around his eyes and mouth and the spots were blood red. He had something around his gills which looked like body fungus. He lost his colour and started to bloat. I thought for sure dropsy was setting in. I tried Maracyn and Maracyn 2 over a two week period but he just kept getting worse. He did not eat for almost two weeks and laid at the bottom most of the time. Finally I thought I'd try Maracyn Plus never expecting anything positive could happen. After three days of treatment I noticed he was moving around a little and seemed to be a little more colourful. The next day at feeding time he swam to the top of his tank and wiggled around just like always. He started eating that day and within a couple more days all physical symptoms of illness were gone. He looks perfect and he seems to have very good sight. At first even though he looked good he seemed to get tired quickly and the aquarium light bothered him. (so I only left the light on while he was being fed) Now his energy has returned and he is back to flaring at his neighbour and sitting on top of his plant and watching everyone's activities.
After all of this I need to clean the bottom of his tank but I am afraid I will unleash something again. I have been doing more frequent water changes but I was thinking about removing him and rinsing the gravel and plants with warm well water.
<Mmm, "well water" covers a wide span of possibilities... I might well use some sort of "bottled drinking water" for this fish>
I would save about 60 to 70 percent of his old water and not rinse or change the filter media at that time. Do you think this is a good plan or do you have other suggestions.
<See above>
I am also watching very carefully for signs of illness again. I thought about running another course of the Maracyn Plus but decided to keep a close eye on him and only use it again if he shows signs of being sick.
He has fought so hard to recover that I really would like to do this properly.
Your assistance would be most appreciated. Thanks so much for being there for us.
Jeanette
<Don't know what course of action to take here... Am not a fan of continuous antimicrobial use... Your system (other than possible water issues) reads as okay... Is the food/s you're using fouling the water (does it appear cloudy, smelly?)... It may well be that this Betta is mostly "getting old"... Bob Fenner>

Re: Next Steps for Betta after recovery from serious illness  9/11/08
Thank you so much for getting back to me. Had a good laugh about your "good to be upset sometimes". A real eye opener for me.
I have heard that Bettas cannot stand stress and that they may die if they get too disturbed.
<The word "too" is provocative... Too little or too much stress can be harmful>
With this in mind I have allowed some of my Bettas especially some of the older boys to train me on their likes and dislikes.
<Good of you>
With respect to the tank there is no odour and the water is clear.
Normally I don't really see much of anything coming up from the gravel when it is cleaned except fine pieces of white debris.
<I see>
I remove any uneaten food but my Bettas usually eat everything. I feed Hikari pellets, freeze dried blood worms and shrimp.
<Very good>
Your response has certainly made me think that I was the one who contaminated the tank somehow when I was cleaning it.
<Most often there are issues of being "too" (here's that word again) clean... the interruption of bio-filtration predominantly>
I always run my fish "things" like water containers and turkey basters through the dishwasher on sani cycle after use. (no soap is used) Maybe this is not really cleaning them well enough.
<Mmm, perhaps so. I would not clean all in this fashion>
I will look into the water again. I had some guidance from Neal a few months ago and everything checked out at that time but I understand it has to be ongoing.
I agree with you on limiting the use of medication whenever possible.
Unfortunately even after a few years at this I still have a problem deciding to medicate or not.
<Many do>
At this point I would like to add that one of the most valuable pieces of advise I have gained from your site is the benefit of trying extra water changes first when a fish seems to be sick. It sounds far too simple and easy to be true but it has worked many times for me.
<Ah yes>
Once again thanks for being there for us.
Jeanette
<Welcome. BobF>

Betta Problems, env., reading  – 09/08/08
Hi crew!
I am a new fish owner as of a week ago. I decided to start out with a Betta because they're good to have as dorm room fish and they do well on their own. I decided to get a baby BiOrb which is about 4 gallons.
<Do leave the water level down a few inches... Bettas can "jump">
I went to a great aquarium store and bought a beautiful healthy Crowntail Betta. I conditioned the water and let my system run for 24 hours before putting him in the tank.
<Mmmm... needs to "cycle"... do you know what this is?>
He was a very happy fishy for a couple of days!
He would come up to the front of the tank whenever I was in the room and constantly swam around enjoying his big home and patrolling his perimeter (he is a Betta after all...). He was eating great and occasionally flaring whenever I would accidentally surprise him or put a mirror up to his tank.
However, a couple of days ago I noticed he was lethargic and was shoving his face down in the "ceramic media" at the bottom of the tank near his plants. I went out and bought him a water heater and now keep the water at about 80 degrees. I also bought him a shorter plant because I thought that maybe he was trying to move his plants to a better area for building a bubble nest and that's why he was shoving his face into his gravel. The BiOrb has a lot of airflow on the top of the water so tall plants aren't good for building bubble nests. Lastly, I tested the water for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates and all readings were zero.
<Mmm... will change in a few days...>
However, the pH was a little high at 8.0. Today Willy (that's his name) is hiding whenever possible, his gills are pumping at an alarming rate, and he seems stiff whenever he swims. He is still eating but it's hard to get him to notice
the food (I feed him Hikari Betta Bio-gold). Also, I smelled the water and it almost smelled...burnt?
<Mmm, you have good olfaction>
I think it might just be the halogen light at the top of the tank but it might be relevant. I haven't been able to do a water change because the siphon is still in the mail. Help! What's wrong with my fishy?
Thanks!
Laura and Willy
<Mmm, really... "just" the set-up protocol, timing here. Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Betta Problems continued – 09/08/08
I forgot to include in my last email that Willy's fins are stiff and the "whispies" (again, he's a Crowntail) that are usually flowy and nice are thin and stiff as well. Thanks for your help!
Laura and Willy
<Read. RMF>